Just returned from 9 glorious days in Tuscany and Rome
Apr 23rd, 2005 | 06:06 AM
#1
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Joined: Nov 2003
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Just returned from 9 glorious days in Tuscany and Rome
My 22 year old daughter and I recently returned from a truly glorious trip to Tuscany and Rome. I could write pages but these are the highlights. Thanks Fodorites for all your help.
We flew NWA/KLM Pittsburgh-Detroit-Amsterdam-Rome and all the flights were on time or early!
We arrived in Rome the day after Pope John Paul II’s funeral and expected some chaos but had no trouble getting a train to Florence.
We walked to B&B Peterson (Thanks for the recommendation Ira! I told Mr. Ancillotti you said hello.)
Gino Ancilloti greeted us with a cup of expresso and let us use his laptop to e-mail my husband and son.
We did not see Mrs.Ancillotti as she had recently delivered twin boys!
Gino offered us the use of his laptop anytime but we would have to make arrangements to meet him at the B&B. So we just bought an hour of internet time at the DLF(railroad worker’s bar) for 3.5 euros.
B&B Peterson was really nice, especially for 58 euros. Our room was large and clean and the bathroom was fine. We had use of the refrigerator, a hair dryer and electric tea kettle. There was an espresso maker, which also made cappuccino, but we ate breakfast at the DLF or the corner bar. We did buy orange juice from the store down the street. (A delicious juice made from blood red oranges called arangia rossa).
The location was great, especially for us since we did day trips by bus and took the train to and from Rome for our flight. It really is only about 10 minutes from the station. It was pretty basic but you can’t beat it for the price.
The only problem was the traffic noise. Fortunately I had ear plugs with me because I’m a light sleeper and would not have been able to sleep without them. My daughter had no trouble sleeping but she lives on a fairly busy street near a hospital.
Where we went and what we did (and loved every moment!):
Walking the streets, looking in the shops and eating gelato every day (usually at our favorite, Perche No).
Mass in the Duomo. Discovering Brunelleschi’s tomb downstairs near the gift shop.
Shopping in the San Lorenzo, Mercato Centrale and Straw Markets.
The Oltrano- Santo Spirito, Santa Maria del Carmine with the Brancacci Chapel, Santa Felicita with Pontormo’s Deposition., the narrow streets of the oltrarno watching the craftsmen doing wood, leather and metal work with hand tools.
Window shopping on the Ponte Vecchio. There is a shop near the Borgo San Jacopo end where I bought silver bracelets for 2 of my graduating nieces for less than 25 euros.
Hearing a violin concert by a group from the United States in Chiesa di San Carlo near Orsanmichelle.
The Bargello Museum-the building itself is beautiful and the collection is magnificent.
Sitting in Piazza della Repubblica.
.
Climbing Giotto’s tower-all 414 steps! I’m glad I had “ trained “ for this by walking up and down a lot of steps. There are resting places along the way so it’s not too bad. And what a view!
Michelangelo’s David, IMHO the most magnificent art work on earth. I had called ahead for 5:00 reservations but did not need them. There was no line and we walked right in!
I had seen the David last year with restoration work going on and now he looks even more magnificent!
Bus #13 from in front of the Peterson through the city to Piazzale Michelangelo.
This time we walked up to San Miniato al Monte. My daughter said this was her favorite place.
The church is magnificent. And the view is spectacular. It is so peaceful and seeing the sunshine on the gold mosaics is really something.
Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella- just smelling the scents and being in this beautiful place is an experience.
Day trips to Siena.
This is so special for me because I lived there as a college student. We met Emanuela (from the family I lived with) in the Piazza del Campo. (The perfect square according to the latest National Geographic Traveler- and I agree!). Just walking the streets of this beautiful Tuscan town is wonderful. Met the rest of the family at Trattoria Pappei for a wonderful pranzo. Ate lots of Ricciarelli-the traditional dessert from Siena that are out of this world!
Another day in Siena-The magnificent Duomo of Siena with the Piccolomini Library and Michelangelo sculptures. Climbing the “Facciatone” –the unfinished wall accessed from the Opera del’Duomo. The view of Siena is spectacular. The beautiful chapel in the old hospital across from the Duomo. Emanuela’s house –went to see the laboratory when she is a cancer research professor, which was of great interest to me since I do the same type of work.
Took a walk near Emanuela’s house and saw the most beautiful Tuscan scenery!
One sunny morning we took the 9:30 bus to Greve in Chianti, walked around this pretty little town, drank wine and were back in Florence for lunch. The scenery on the way and especially on the way back was heartbreakingly beautiful. As said so well by writer Gary Topping about his encounter with Tuscany,” Even after years of traveling the world, I never knew …that scenery could make me cry.”
The Arno, Santa Croce, Piazza del Duomo at twilight.
Palazzzo Medici-Riccardi , Via Cavour. I had seen this building but didn’t realize what it was until I read about in the National Geographic. It is a gem with beautifully frescoed rooms and The Chapel of the Magi by Gozzoli. Make sure you do the interactive computer introduction to the art work.
It’s really cool!
Our last day in Florence we finished up some shopping and returned to the Piazza Signoria and went inside the Palazzo Vecchio. Last year the fascade of the Palazzo was covered in scaffolding. Now it looks spectacular. And inside-what a wonderful surprise! Much more of it is now open to the public. One room is more beautiful than the next, from the Sala di Cinquecento where the Medicis conducted government to the Sala delle Carte (room of the maps).
To be continued…. Florence food, Roma!
We flew NWA/KLM Pittsburgh-Detroit-Amsterdam-Rome and all the flights were on time or early!
We arrived in Rome the day after Pope John Paul II’s funeral and expected some chaos but had no trouble getting a train to Florence.
We walked to B&B Peterson (Thanks for the recommendation Ira! I told Mr. Ancillotti you said hello.)
Gino Ancilloti greeted us with a cup of expresso and let us use his laptop to e-mail my husband and son.
We did not see Mrs.Ancillotti as she had recently delivered twin boys!
Gino offered us the use of his laptop anytime but we would have to make arrangements to meet him at the B&B. So we just bought an hour of internet time at the DLF(railroad worker’s bar) for 3.5 euros.
B&B Peterson was really nice, especially for 58 euros. Our room was large and clean and the bathroom was fine. We had use of the refrigerator, a hair dryer and electric tea kettle. There was an espresso maker, which also made cappuccino, but we ate breakfast at the DLF or the corner bar. We did buy orange juice from the store down the street. (A delicious juice made from blood red oranges called arangia rossa).
The location was great, especially for us since we did day trips by bus and took the train to and from Rome for our flight. It really is only about 10 minutes from the station. It was pretty basic but you can’t beat it for the price.
The only problem was the traffic noise. Fortunately I had ear plugs with me because I’m a light sleeper and would not have been able to sleep without them. My daughter had no trouble sleeping but she lives on a fairly busy street near a hospital.
Where we went and what we did (and loved every moment!):
Walking the streets, looking in the shops and eating gelato every day (usually at our favorite, Perche No).
Mass in the Duomo. Discovering Brunelleschi’s tomb downstairs near the gift shop.
Shopping in the San Lorenzo, Mercato Centrale and Straw Markets.
The Oltrano- Santo Spirito, Santa Maria del Carmine with the Brancacci Chapel, Santa Felicita with Pontormo’s Deposition., the narrow streets of the oltrarno watching the craftsmen doing wood, leather and metal work with hand tools.
Window shopping on the Ponte Vecchio. There is a shop near the Borgo San Jacopo end where I bought silver bracelets for 2 of my graduating nieces for less than 25 euros.
Hearing a violin concert by a group from the United States in Chiesa di San Carlo near Orsanmichelle.
The Bargello Museum-the building itself is beautiful and the collection is magnificent.
Sitting in Piazza della Repubblica.
.
Climbing Giotto’s tower-all 414 steps! I’m glad I had “ trained “ for this by walking up and down a lot of steps. There are resting places along the way so it’s not too bad. And what a view!
Michelangelo’s David, IMHO the most magnificent art work on earth. I had called ahead for 5:00 reservations but did not need them. There was no line and we walked right in!
I had seen the David last year with restoration work going on and now he looks even more magnificent!
Bus #13 from in front of the Peterson through the city to Piazzale Michelangelo.
This time we walked up to San Miniato al Monte. My daughter said this was her favorite place.
The church is magnificent. And the view is spectacular. It is so peaceful and seeing the sunshine on the gold mosaics is really something.
Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella- just smelling the scents and being in this beautiful place is an experience.
Day trips to Siena.
This is so special for me because I lived there as a college student. We met Emanuela (from the family I lived with) in the Piazza del Campo. (The perfect square according to the latest National Geographic Traveler- and I agree!). Just walking the streets of this beautiful Tuscan town is wonderful. Met the rest of the family at Trattoria Pappei for a wonderful pranzo. Ate lots of Ricciarelli-the traditional dessert from Siena that are out of this world!
Another day in Siena-The magnificent Duomo of Siena with the Piccolomini Library and Michelangelo sculptures. Climbing the “Facciatone” –the unfinished wall accessed from the Opera del’Duomo. The view of Siena is spectacular. The beautiful chapel in the old hospital across from the Duomo. Emanuela’s house –went to see the laboratory when she is a cancer research professor, which was of great interest to me since I do the same type of work.
Took a walk near Emanuela’s house and saw the most beautiful Tuscan scenery!
One sunny morning we took the 9:30 bus to Greve in Chianti, walked around this pretty little town, drank wine and were back in Florence for lunch. The scenery on the way and especially on the way back was heartbreakingly beautiful. As said so well by writer Gary Topping about his encounter with Tuscany,” Even after years of traveling the world, I never knew …that scenery could make me cry.”
The Arno, Santa Croce, Piazza del Duomo at twilight.
Palazzzo Medici-Riccardi , Via Cavour. I had seen this building but didn’t realize what it was until I read about in the National Geographic. It is a gem with beautifully frescoed rooms and The Chapel of the Magi by Gozzoli. Make sure you do the interactive computer introduction to the art work.
It’s really cool!
Our last day in Florence we finished up some shopping and returned to the Piazza Signoria and went inside the Palazzo Vecchio. Last year the fascade of the Palazzo was covered in scaffolding. Now it looks spectacular. And inside-what a wonderful surprise! Much more of it is now open to the public. One room is more beautiful than the next, from the Sala di Cinquecento where the Medicis conducted government to the Sala delle Carte (room of the maps).
To be continued…. Florence food, Roma!
Apr 24th, 2005 | 08:33 AM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 162
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oops! sorry-I just realized I didn't paste it in.
Great food in Florence:
For breakfast, in our room we had arancia rossa (juice from red oranges). Then “due cappuccini e due cornetti”(yummy!), a couple times at the corner bar, usually at the DLF a couple blocks up & across the street. It was nice being with the locals. The short cut that Ira found was great- up the stairs and across the tracks to the train station. (Thanks, Ira!)
For lunch a couple times we had THE freshest and most delicious panini from the Gastronomia La Dispensa ,Via dei Barbadori 26R (There is also an entrance on Borgo San Jacopo). My daughter found this when she was a student in Florence last year. We picked out the rolls and turkey, added fresh pesto to die for, bought a bottle of water and a couple oranges and then ate by the Arno. Heavenly!
We also ate lunch inexpensively in the Mercato Centrale-dishes of pasta for 4 or 5 Euro. Once I just bought lunch from the food stands-cheese (pecorino giovane-my favorite that I can’t find in the US), fruit and a roll.
Restaurants: (again-loved them all!)
Osteria dell’ Agnolo, Borgo San Lorenzo 24R
Roberto’s, Via Castellani
Il Giova, Borgo La Croce 73R
Trattoria LaMangiatoia, Piazza San Felice 8-10R
Al Vecchio Carlino, Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 15R near the Peterson B&B
Ristorante Mastro Ciliegia, Via Palmieri, 30R near Santa Croce
My daughter and I are not big eaters and we LOVE pasta, so most often we each had a pasta dish and a salad, sometimes sharing ¼ liter of wine. Sometimes we shared a salad and no one seemed to mind. And we always saved room for gelato!
Our last day: Roma
Took the Eurostar from Florence. Arrived ~11:30 am. Walked the few blocks to Hotel Des Artistes. Our room wasn’t ready yet so we went for lunch at Taverna Pretoriana, Via Palestro 46-48.
Good food, not expensive. E-mailed home, etc and returned to Des Artistes. We were staying in the hostel annex a couple blocks away so Aaron, the young man from the hotel, walked us over. It was fine for one night.
Then we took the insanely crowded bus 64 from the train station to Vatican City. We didn’t know what would be open or if there would be long lines but we just wanted to be there. We were so thrilled to find out we could see Pope John Paul II’s tomb and all the other popes buried under Saint Peter’s. We were in line only about 15 minutes. It was so amazing!
Inside St. Peter’s, a service was being held for the last day of mourning but people were allowed to walk around. A men and boys choir was singing and filled the whole basilica with beautiful music! Michelangelo’s Pieta, a cardinal praying in front of the Baldicino, candles lit at the place John Paul II had been lying in state. We just took it all in with awe. It was so moving just to be there.
Outside, we stood on the steps of St. Peter’s overlooking the whole piazza and picturing it filled with people. We saw the window of John Paul II’s chamber, the window at the center of St. Peter’s draped in red for the new pope and the chimney on the Sistine Chapel where we knew important smoke would be coming out of the next day! It was just so thrilling.
We stayed in Piazza San Pietro until twilight when the lights of the basilica came on. So beautiful!
We took the bus back, had dinner and the next morning took the Leonardo Express train to the airport and had to say “Arrivederci” to this beautiful country.
So many times during this trip my daughter and I said to each other, “ I can’t believe we’re here! We are so lucky to be here!” It truly was a wonderful mother-daughter trip.
Great food in Florence:
For breakfast, in our room we had arancia rossa (juice from red oranges). Then “due cappuccini e due cornetti”(yummy!), a couple times at the corner bar, usually at the DLF a couple blocks up & across the street. It was nice being with the locals. The short cut that Ira found was great- up the stairs and across the tracks to the train station. (Thanks, Ira!)
For lunch a couple times we had THE freshest and most delicious panini from the Gastronomia La Dispensa ,Via dei Barbadori 26R (There is also an entrance on Borgo San Jacopo). My daughter found this when she was a student in Florence last year. We picked out the rolls and turkey, added fresh pesto to die for, bought a bottle of water and a couple oranges and then ate by the Arno. Heavenly!
We also ate lunch inexpensively in the Mercato Centrale-dishes of pasta for 4 or 5 Euro. Once I just bought lunch from the food stands-cheese (pecorino giovane-my favorite that I can’t find in the US), fruit and a roll.
Restaurants: (again-loved them all!)
Osteria dell’ Agnolo, Borgo San Lorenzo 24R
Roberto’s, Via Castellani
Il Giova, Borgo La Croce 73R
Trattoria LaMangiatoia, Piazza San Felice 8-10R
Al Vecchio Carlino, Viale Fratelli Rosselli, 15R near the Peterson B&B
Ristorante Mastro Ciliegia, Via Palmieri, 30R near Santa Croce
My daughter and I are not big eaters and we LOVE pasta, so most often we each had a pasta dish and a salad, sometimes sharing ¼ liter of wine. Sometimes we shared a salad and no one seemed to mind. And we always saved room for gelato!
Our last day: Roma
Took the Eurostar from Florence. Arrived ~11:30 am. Walked the few blocks to Hotel Des Artistes. Our room wasn’t ready yet so we went for lunch at Taverna Pretoriana, Via Palestro 46-48.
Good food, not expensive. E-mailed home, etc and returned to Des Artistes. We were staying in the hostel annex a couple blocks away so Aaron, the young man from the hotel, walked us over. It was fine for one night.
Then we took the insanely crowded bus 64 from the train station to Vatican City. We didn’t know what would be open or if there would be long lines but we just wanted to be there. We were so thrilled to find out we could see Pope John Paul II’s tomb and all the other popes buried under Saint Peter’s. We were in line only about 15 minutes. It was so amazing!
Inside St. Peter’s, a service was being held for the last day of mourning but people were allowed to walk around. A men and boys choir was singing and filled the whole basilica with beautiful music! Michelangelo’s Pieta, a cardinal praying in front of the Baldicino, candles lit at the place John Paul II had been lying in state. We just took it all in with awe. It was so moving just to be there.
Outside, we stood on the steps of St. Peter’s overlooking the whole piazza and picturing it filled with people. We saw the window of John Paul II’s chamber, the window at the center of St. Peter’s draped in red for the new pope and the chimney on the Sistine Chapel where we knew important smoke would be coming out of the next day! It was just so thrilling.
We stayed in Piazza San Pietro until twilight when the lights of the basilica came on. So beautiful!
We took the bus back, had dinner and the next morning took the Leonardo Express train to the airport and had to say “Arrivederci” to this beautiful country.
So many times during this trip my daughter and I said to each other, “ I can’t believe we’re here! We are so lucky to be here!” It truly was a wonderful mother-daughter trip.
Apr 24th, 2005 | 01:05 PM
#6
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Hello carolw, thank you for your beautiful trip report.
I would imagine that this is a trip that you and your daughter will remember forever. A trip dreams are made of.
Thank you for sharing this special time in your life with us. I so enjoyed your report. And I can only imagine how special it was to be at the Vatican when you were able to visit. Best wishes.
I would imagine that this is a trip that you and your daughter will remember forever. A trip dreams are made of.
Thank you for sharing this special time in your life with us. I so enjoyed your report. And I can only imagine how special it was to be at the Vatican when you were able to visit. Best wishes.
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Apr 24th, 2005 | 04:57 PM
#11
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
Likes: 0
carolw,
I'm so enjoying reading your wonderful trip report. We're going to meet our daughter (who is 21) in Venice in 2 weeks and then go on to Siena with her--she's in college there and is loving it (like you apparently did and your daughter did in Florence).
I was wondering if you had any suggestions for restaurants in Siena?
Thanks again for sharing!
I'm so enjoying reading your wonderful trip report. We're going to meet our daughter (who is 21) in Venice in 2 weeks and then go on to Siena with her--she's in college there and is loving it (like you apparently did and your daughter did in Florence).
I was wondering if you had any suggestions for restaurants in Siena?
Thanks again for sharing!
Apr 25th, 2005 | 03:50 AM
#13
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 162
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Dear artlover,
We had an excellent meal at Trattoria Papei, Piazza del Mercato 6 (behind the Palazzo Pubblico).
My Siena "family" took us there so its a favorite with the locals. It's not expensive-7 of us ate very well-multiple courses with wine for 150 euros. Hope this helps!
We had an excellent meal at Trattoria Papei, Piazza del Mercato 6 (behind the Palazzo Pubblico).
My Siena "family" took us there so its a favorite with the locals. It's not expensive-7 of us ate very well-multiple courses with wine for 150 euros. Hope this helps!
Apr 25th, 2005 | 06:07 AM
#15
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,265
Likes: 0
Carolw,
Enjoyed your report which reminded me of all my favorite sights I missed on my last trip to Florence. . . I guess I'll have to return to Italy--again.
Glad you were able to share such a special time with your daughter.
Enjoyed your report which reminded me of all my favorite sights I missed on my last trip to Florence. . . I guess I'll have to return to Italy--again.
Glad you were able to share such a special time with your daughter.
Apr 25th, 2005 | 06:46 PM
#18
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Hi artlover. I too like to eat where locals eat. IMHO one always gets the best food without overpaying.
I feel bad because a lot of restaurants in Italy that I go to - well I know more or less how to go to them but I never wrote down the name or address. Then I came onto Fodor's. So I cringe that I don't have the information to share with others here. Well next trip I will be sure to make notes. Mangia!
I feel bad because a lot of restaurants in Italy that I go to - well I know more or less how to go to them but I never wrote down the name or address. Then I came onto Fodor's. So I cringe that I don't have the information to share with others here. Well next trip I will be sure to make notes. Mangia!
Apr 26th, 2005 | 03:53 PM
#19
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,204
Likes: 0
LoveItaly,
I know what you mean. There's a little inexpensive one in Florence that we went to a few times that was great, but it was BF (Before Fodors), so I don't know the name, but lots of students were there. DH thinks he can find it again and I hope he's right so I can pass it on here.
I know what you mean. There's a little inexpensive one in Florence that we went to a few times that was great, but it was BF (Before Fodors), so I don't know the name, but lots of students were there. DH thinks he can find it again and I hope he's right so I can pass it on here.
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