Just back from Spain-Trip Report
May 2nd, 2007 | 03:31 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 183
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Just back from Spain-Trip Report
Our trip was Madrid, Granada and Nerja. My husband had a conference and with only a week it was a challenge to get in some extra sightseeing. My main goal was to go to Granada to see the Alhambra.
Our first three nights were in Madrid to get work out of the way.
We had been warned about Madrid's problems with rip off taxi drivers but unfortunately we were distracted and tired after flying all night and-- wouldn't you know it-- the driver shorted us almost ten euros in change. Also, my husband asked him for "recibo official" and received a scrap of paper which turned out to be the unofficial version. The official receipts are to try to keep dishonest drivers from preying on tourists b/c it has their cab numbers on it.
There is a 4.5 Euro surcharge for taking people to/from the airport so it will be added to the metered fare. This dishonesty among the cab drivers is a common experience in Madrid and it happened to us two more times. I’ve traveled quite a bit and this was the first time I’ve ever had this repeated experience. It was annoying but I just stuck my hand out and said “No Senor. Cambio is no correcto" until they dug into their bag and give me (with a heavy sigh) the proper change. A better solution is to carry around some five euro bills and lots of 1 and 2 Euro coins so that you won’t need change. The fare from the airport to central Madrid should be in the range of 22 to 29 euros. Once you get settled into your hotel, Madrid’s metro is the best way to get around during the day. Madrid has a lot of traffic and the metro is faster and cheaper.
We spent 3 nights in Madrid at the Hotel Hesperia Madrid on Calle Castellenos.
The hotel was modern, spotless and elegant-- above average in every way--food, excellent service, decor. It's not convenient to the museums but there is a metro stop 100 feet from the door of the hotel. I don’t have the exact hotel rate b/c it was included in the conference but I believe the rate was approximately $250 Euros per night. I imagine you could get a less expensive rate over the internet. Madrid was pretty chilly while we were there and I was very glad I packed a jacket.
We ignored jet lag our first day and toured the Prado Museum. If you like art, it is not to be missed. I was amazed at the sheer volume of famous masters’ paintings I saw there, especially the Flemish painters. The next day we went to the Picasso Museum (I’m not a fan so no comment here) and we had a tour and tapas dinner at the Thyseen Museum. IMO both museums are worthy but not on the caliber of the Prado. We also saw an abbreviated version of a flamenco show. I loved tapas. 37 different tiny dishes and I ate them all with the exception of the sardines. I especially enjoyed the local cheeses that they dunk into this amazing honey. I’m not a big honey eater, but their honey was special. It’s not thick and cloying like ours here in Atlanta. Maybe it was the wine.
Went to the Palacio Real by myself one rainy day. When I got there they had just closed the Palace for the two hour lunch break and I mentioned to the ticket lady that I was “mucho tango hambre” (very hungry) and I must have looked tired, wet and starving so she let me go upstairs to the Palace cafeteria. It was small and packed with all the employees of the Palace—guards, shop girls, police, maintenance, docents. Some military types with medals all over their jackets.
I just sat back, ate the daily special which was a huge sandwich of fried eggs, ham, cheese, white asparagus, lettuce & tomato, drank red wine and watched. These people really eat a big lunch. And they were all drinking wine or beer. I’ll be we’d have fewer office shootings if we ate lunch like the Spaniards. I enjoyed the Palace but didn’t linger. It was worth the 8 Euros or so.
I also took, against my better judgement, a half day tour to Toledo with Julia Tours. UGH! Don't do it. More time going to the "crafts factory" than anything else. The crafts looked like they were really from China. I'll get back to Toledo on my own another time. I generally don't take organized tours and this proves that my original misgivings were correct.
Day 4 we flew SpanAir to Granada. The plane was new and spotless. The flight took about 45 minutes. SpanAir boards really EARLY and actually took off five minutes before schedule. They have the ticketing kiosk at the Madrid Airport for SpanAir internet tickets which I highly recommend b/c then you can just dump your bags instead of waiting in a very long line at the ticketing window. The ticketing kiosk has English.
We stayed at the Hotel Santa Isabel ($140 Euros per night) in the Albacyn in Granada. The taxi driver charged us 27 euros from the airport. I wasn't sure about this b/c he didn't turn on his meter (one of my traveling taboos is getting into city cabs without meters) but he told us that there is more of flat fare from the airport. They also charge a bit more for going into the Albacyn. Our proprietor at the hotel agreed with him so I guess its true.
Do not even think about driving in the Albacyn. The streets are all cobblestone and barely one car wide and filled with people walking around. Sometimes it’s so close that you have to step into a doorway so that a car could pass. Fortunately, there aren’t many cars. The Albacyn reminded me of the smaller Greek islands with windy paths between bright white buildings with colorful doors. The Hotel Santa Isabel is very close to the San Miguel Plaza, which is a tiny plaza that has a church and three restaurants. We ate dinner at one of them (I think it was called Ali) and it was a bit pricy but very good.
There is another part of the Albacyn that faces Alhambra. If you want to be out late (as in after midnight) I’d suggest staying over there. Our section was a bit spooky after midnight and I wouldn’t have ventured too far from the hotel and plaza. Our hotel was only a year old, spotless and very comfortable with exposed wood beams in the rooms and traditional Spanish open courtyard. It was well located for Alhambra touring but not within walking distance. However, there is a bus stop literally just outside the front door of the hotel (Bus number 32) which took us to the main square of Granada and then onto Alhambra. Cost is 1 Euro each way but you can also buy a packet of 10 tickets for about 6 Euros. Important—we were told that the bus ran from Alhambra to the Albacyn until one am. Not true. The buses stop sometime after 11 so after waiting around for thirty minutes after an evening at Alhambra, we walked down and took a cab home.
The Alhambra is simply amazing. The day we spent there and in the accompanying gardens of the Generalife were beyond expectation. I’ve seen castles and palaces but I’ve never seen Moorish architecture and design before. Everything is designed around beauty and the sound of water. We went to the night tour too, which was nice, but it was pretty darn dark so definitely no substitute for a day tour.
We rented a car after Granada and drove to Nerja. Driving in southern Spain is easy and the best way to get around. Originally we were going to go to Ronda, but we were tired and just wanted to relax for a few days. Nerja is an hour west of Granada, an extremely easy drive on the autopista and we stayed at the Parador Nerja ($200 Euros including breakfast). This Parador is not in a historic building but is located on a cliff above the Mediterranean with spectacular views. We spent two days lounging around in the sun and mingling with the Germans & Brits that come there for regular R & R. We also went to the Nerja caves which were totally a surprise. I don’t know what I was expecting, but these caves are huge. They were discovered in 1959 and filled with bones of ancient people and animals.
One afternoon we visited a small village named Frigilana which was about 5 miles north of the coast. Very pretty white village with several shops that had some interesting crafts -- not just the normal touristy stuff. Frigilana makes its own wine which was good. I also bought olive oil and honey which somehow made it home intact in my luggage.
Nerja is less than an hour from the Malaga Airport and we had an early flight back to Madrid so we were up and out the door at 5:30 am. The Malaga Airport is under massive construction and it was a little hard to figure out where to drop off the rental car. If you are going there in the next few months and need to return a car, there is one sign that says “rental car” on your left as you approach the airport and it looks like its directing you right into the construction. But, there really is a garage under there with all of the rental car agencies. We used Auto Europe and they had well marked parking spaces and drop box for after hours.
We flew Iberia to Madrid and to catch our Delta flight back to the US. We had two hours between flights and we needed every minute of it because our Iberia flight dropped in at Terminal 4 and our Delta flight was at Terminal 1. These Madrid airport terminals are rather far apart and you must take a shuttle between them. By the time we collected our luggage from Iberia, boarded the shuttle, checked into Delta, we had less than 15 minutes before Delta boarded. Luckily we were able to get exit row seats so we stretched out for the 9 hour return trip.
All in all a good trip for a week. It was a good balance of sightseeing and relaxation. Thanks again to everyone at Fodor’s for their input.
Our first three nights were in Madrid to get work out of the way.
We had been warned about Madrid's problems with rip off taxi drivers but unfortunately we were distracted and tired after flying all night and-- wouldn't you know it-- the driver shorted us almost ten euros in change. Also, my husband asked him for "recibo official" and received a scrap of paper which turned out to be the unofficial version. The official receipts are to try to keep dishonest drivers from preying on tourists b/c it has their cab numbers on it.
There is a 4.5 Euro surcharge for taking people to/from the airport so it will be added to the metered fare. This dishonesty among the cab drivers is a common experience in Madrid and it happened to us two more times. I’ve traveled quite a bit and this was the first time I’ve ever had this repeated experience. It was annoying but I just stuck my hand out and said “No Senor. Cambio is no correcto" until they dug into their bag and give me (with a heavy sigh) the proper change. A better solution is to carry around some five euro bills and lots of 1 and 2 Euro coins so that you won’t need change. The fare from the airport to central Madrid should be in the range of 22 to 29 euros. Once you get settled into your hotel, Madrid’s metro is the best way to get around during the day. Madrid has a lot of traffic and the metro is faster and cheaper.
We spent 3 nights in Madrid at the Hotel Hesperia Madrid on Calle Castellenos.
The hotel was modern, spotless and elegant-- above average in every way--food, excellent service, decor. It's not convenient to the museums but there is a metro stop 100 feet from the door of the hotel. I don’t have the exact hotel rate b/c it was included in the conference but I believe the rate was approximately $250 Euros per night. I imagine you could get a less expensive rate over the internet. Madrid was pretty chilly while we were there and I was very glad I packed a jacket.
We ignored jet lag our first day and toured the Prado Museum. If you like art, it is not to be missed. I was amazed at the sheer volume of famous masters’ paintings I saw there, especially the Flemish painters. The next day we went to the Picasso Museum (I’m not a fan so no comment here) and we had a tour and tapas dinner at the Thyseen Museum. IMO both museums are worthy but not on the caliber of the Prado. We also saw an abbreviated version of a flamenco show. I loved tapas. 37 different tiny dishes and I ate them all with the exception of the sardines. I especially enjoyed the local cheeses that they dunk into this amazing honey. I’m not a big honey eater, but their honey was special. It’s not thick and cloying like ours here in Atlanta. Maybe it was the wine.
Went to the Palacio Real by myself one rainy day. When I got there they had just closed the Palace for the two hour lunch break and I mentioned to the ticket lady that I was “mucho tango hambre” (very hungry) and I must have looked tired, wet and starving so she let me go upstairs to the Palace cafeteria. It was small and packed with all the employees of the Palace—guards, shop girls, police, maintenance, docents. Some military types with medals all over their jackets.
I just sat back, ate the daily special which was a huge sandwich of fried eggs, ham, cheese, white asparagus, lettuce & tomato, drank red wine and watched. These people really eat a big lunch. And they were all drinking wine or beer. I’ll be we’d have fewer office shootings if we ate lunch like the Spaniards. I enjoyed the Palace but didn’t linger. It was worth the 8 Euros or so.
I also took, against my better judgement, a half day tour to Toledo with Julia Tours. UGH! Don't do it. More time going to the "crafts factory" than anything else. The crafts looked like they were really from China. I'll get back to Toledo on my own another time. I generally don't take organized tours and this proves that my original misgivings were correct.
Day 4 we flew SpanAir to Granada. The plane was new and spotless. The flight took about 45 minutes. SpanAir boards really EARLY and actually took off five minutes before schedule. They have the ticketing kiosk at the Madrid Airport for SpanAir internet tickets which I highly recommend b/c then you can just dump your bags instead of waiting in a very long line at the ticketing window. The ticketing kiosk has English.
We stayed at the Hotel Santa Isabel ($140 Euros per night) in the Albacyn in Granada. The taxi driver charged us 27 euros from the airport. I wasn't sure about this b/c he didn't turn on his meter (one of my traveling taboos is getting into city cabs without meters) but he told us that there is more of flat fare from the airport. They also charge a bit more for going into the Albacyn. Our proprietor at the hotel agreed with him so I guess its true.
Do not even think about driving in the Albacyn. The streets are all cobblestone and barely one car wide and filled with people walking around. Sometimes it’s so close that you have to step into a doorway so that a car could pass. Fortunately, there aren’t many cars. The Albacyn reminded me of the smaller Greek islands with windy paths between bright white buildings with colorful doors. The Hotel Santa Isabel is very close to the San Miguel Plaza, which is a tiny plaza that has a church and three restaurants. We ate dinner at one of them (I think it was called Ali) and it was a bit pricy but very good.
There is another part of the Albacyn that faces Alhambra. If you want to be out late (as in after midnight) I’d suggest staying over there. Our section was a bit spooky after midnight and I wouldn’t have ventured too far from the hotel and plaza. Our hotel was only a year old, spotless and very comfortable with exposed wood beams in the rooms and traditional Spanish open courtyard. It was well located for Alhambra touring but not within walking distance. However, there is a bus stop literally just outside the front door of the hotel (Bus number 32) which took us to the main square of Granada and then onto Alhambra. Cost is 1 Euro each way but you can also buy a packet of 10 tickets for about 6 Euros. Important—we were told that the bus ran from Alhambra to the Albacyn until one am. Not true. The buses stop sometime after 11 so after waiting around for thirty minutes after an evening at Alhambra, we walked down and took a cab home.
The Alhambra is simply amazing. The day we spent there and in the accompanying gardens of the Generalife were beyond expectation. I’ve seen castles and palaces but I’ve never seen Moorish architecture and design before. Everything is designed around beauty and the sound of water. We went to the night tour too, which was nice, but it was pretty darn dark so definitely no substitute for a day tour.
We rented a car after Granada and drove to Nerja. Driving in southern Spain is easy and the best way to get around. Originally we were going to go to Ronda, but we were tired and just wanted to relax for a few days. Nerja is an hour west of Granada, an extremely easy drive on the autopista and we stayed at the Parador Nerja ($200 Euros including breakfast). This Parador is not in a historic building but is located on a cliff above the Mediterranean with spectacular views. We spent two days lounging around in the sun and mingling with the Germans & Brits that come there for regular R & R. We also went to the Nerja caves which were totally a surprise. I don’t know what I was expecting, but these caves are huge. They were discovered in 1959 and filled with bones of ancient people and animals.
One afternoon we visited a small village named Frigilana which was about 5 miles north of the coast. Very pretty white village with several shops that had some interesting crafts -- not just the normal touristy stuff. Frigilana makes its own wine which was good. I also bought olive oil and honey which somehow made it home intact in my luggage.
Nerja is less than an hour from the Malaga Airport and we had an early flight back to Madrid so we were up and out the door at 5:30 am. The Malaga Airport is under massive construction and it was a little hard to figure out where to drop off the rental car. If you are going there in the next few months and need to return a car, there is one sign that says “rental car” on your left as you approach the airport and it looks like its directing you right into the construction. But, there really is a garage under there with all of the rental car agencies. We used Auto Europe and they had well marked parking spaces and drop box for after hours.
We flew Iberia to Madrid and to catch our Delta flight back to the US. We had two hours between flights and we needed every minute of it because our Iberia flight dropped in at Terminal 4 and our Delta flight was at Terminal 1. These Madrid airport terminals are rather far apart and you must take a shuttle between them. By the time we collected our luggage from Iberia, boarded the shuttle, checked into Delta, we had less than 15 minutes before Delta boarded. Luckily we were able to get exit row seats so we stretched out for the 9 hour return trip.
All in all a good trip for a week. It was a good balance of sightseeing and relaxation. Thanks again to everyone at Fodor’s for their input.
May 2nd, 2007 | 03:50 PM
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Hola, stotz!
Thanks for posting a report. I was in on the discussion on where to stay the last night. I'm glad you chose Nerja and had minimum trouble returning the car.
I didn't know you are from Atlanta. So am I!
The Nerja parador is not a pretty building but the grounds are very nice. It is a great place to relax.
Welcome home!
Thanks for posting a report. I was in on the discussion on where to stay the last night. I'm glad you chose Nerja and had minimum trouble returning the car.
I didn't know you are from Atlanta. So am I!
The Nerja parador is not a pretty building but the grounds are very nice. It is a great place to relax.
Welcome home!
May 20th, 2007 | 04:50 AM
#6
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,635
Likes: 0
I, personally, have never been 'ripped off' by a Taxista in Madrid. I think that for every dishonest one there are many honest ones; but you have to know the rules: There are surcharges for airport pick up and/or drop off as well as Major rail station (Puerta de Atocha or Chamartin) pick up and/or drop off. There may be a surcharge for handling luggage that they stow in the trunk of the taxi.
I am fluent in Castellano. That helps!
I am fluent in Castellano. That helps!
May 20th, 2007 | 05:42 AM
#7
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,298
Likes: 0
Hi Stotz,
Fabulous report, thank you for taking the time.
I have been to Madrid many times and have been ripped off by cabs at the airport 3 times. The 1st time I didn't realize I was scammed until later that I told a work colleague how much I had paid. The other 2 times I knew and challenged the driver. But it was late, he wasn't budging and unfortunately there was no porter at the door of the hotel. I didn't want to risk him taking off with my bags. So I paid what he wanted and gave him no tip.
Pero nunca más! Next time I go I will be alert and make sure that they put their meter.
By the way, language was not the issue. Spanish is my native language. I don't think they discriminate due to language abilities.
Fabulous report, thank you for taking the time.
I have been to Madrid many times and have been ripped off by cabs at the airport 3 times. The 1st time I didn't realize I was scammed until later that I told a work colleague how much I had paid. The other 2 times I knew and challenged the driver. But it was late, he wasn't budging and unfortunately there was no porter at the door of the hotel. I didn't want to risk him taking off with my bags. So I paid what he wanted and gave him no tip.
Pero nunca más! Next time I go I will be alert and make sure that they put their meter.
By the way, language was not the issue. Spanish is my native language. I don't think they discriminate due to language abilities.
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May 20th, 2007 | 11:47 AM
#8
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Ned, it´s not a language matter.
I´d say they even like it more when they do it to an spaniard
Anyway, stotz´s recommendation of carrying small change is a very good one. It has happened to me to be carrying only 50 euros bills, and the taxi driver might complain about it.
Rgds, Cova
I´d say they even like it more when they do it to an spaniard
Anyway, stotz´s recommendation of carrying small change is a very good one. It has happened to me to be carrying only 50 euros bills, and the taxi driver might complain about it. Rgds, Cova
May 20th, 2007 | 02:17 PM
#10
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
In Madrid at least there is no surcharge for luggage in the trunk. There is an extra 5eur for airport service, and 2,5eur for train station pick-up (but not going-to). You cannot be charged two extras. Have the driver put the meter to work, and have the surcharge in mind. If you want, you can ask for a PRINTED (and not hand-written) bill.
