Part I. (Warning: this report is pretty detailed so if you are one of those who complains about such things, just stop reading now or don't say I didn't warn you.) <BR>Just back from Paris & Bruges. Paris hot & sunny (highs 70s & low 80s), Bruges cold (40s-50s) & rainy & windy, both amazing. Trip was delayed by one day due to work so sorry I missed the Fodorites get-together in Paris. Five days & nights in Paris, two in Bruges. My third trip to Paris but hadn't been in 10 years; my first time in Bruges. Paris seemed improved in several respects (although I loved it before too): not nearly as many smokers as I remembered, city much cleaner overall, Parisians friendlier than I recalled. <BR> <BR>Flew into Brussels airport (got a great sale fare on USAirways from Washington National thru Philly, flights on-time, no complaints), took the train from Brussels airport to Brussels Midi & then the Thalys (reservations required) to Paris, then the RER B to the Luxembourg stop in the 6th. Stayed at Grand Hotel des Balcons & liked it very much -- fantastic location (better than the 1st & 15th where I'd previously stayed), very clean, helpful English-speaking staff, on a quiet sidestreet, won't win any awards for decor but who cares, no A/C (didn't expect to need it but I wouldn't have minded it as I had to sleep with the windows open every night because it was so warm, which let in a little noise from the occasional scooter), very comfortable beds; I had room 406 which was very small but not uncomfortably so (at least for one person), had two single beds pushed together, a small balcony with a view of the Odeon Theatre to the left, and a tub in the bathroom with a hand-held shower (no shower curtain, natch). Attention washcloth afficionados: no need to bring your own here. They also provide a shampoo & body gel, q-tips, and shoe polisher, but no conditioner (go figure). Very good breakfast for the equivalent of about $9 U.S. (I think; don't have the bill in front of me) included eggs with cheese, bacon, pate, cold cuts, delicious croissants, yogurt, fruit, juice, coffee -- pretty much the gamut. The nightly rate they quoted me for this room was 544 FF single, but they ended up charging me around 490 instead I think (not sure why). <BR> <BR>(continued)

Part II -- Sunday afternoon, a late lunch at Aux Charpentiers, enjoyed sitting out at a table on the sidewalk -- roasted duck in olive sauce with fried potatoes & a glass of white bordeaux -- all delicious. <BR> <BR>Spent the afternoon at Luxembourg Gardens, incredibly alive on a sunny Sunday afternoon in Paris, full of Parisians & visitors enjoying the day -- kids sailing toy boats, lovers kissing, a band playing, teenagers sunbathing, little old ladies crocheting -- absolutely gorgeous. Lots of terrific photo ops & people-watching here. <BR> <BR>Dinner at Restaurant des Beaux Arts -- again, enjoyed sitting outside on a warm night (I tried to choose restaurants that offered outdoor dining as much as possible) -- had an excellent salad of green beans and mushrooms in a mustard vinaigrette, followed by an OK roasted free-range chicken with yummy garlic mashed potatoes (wouldn't order the chicken again), with a little carafe of the house white -- very nice. By the way, I chose all moderately-priced restaurants on this trip (the least I paid for a meal was 110FF & the most I paid was 205FF -- all included wine). Primary sources I used for restaurant recommendations, besides this forum of course, were Zagats, Bon Appetit, Gourmet, my Frommer's guidebook, Bistros of Paris, Patricia Wells, and Great Eats in Paris. <BR>(continued)

Lisa! So glad you liked Balcons! My favorite Paris Hotel..... we are going to Brugge next spring so keep typing... and welcome back!!!

Part III. By the way, I tried to get into Les Bookinistes for dinner on Sunday night, but contrary to what is written in many books, they are no longer open on Sundays. <BR> <BR>One thing I had forgotten is that it stays light out very late in Paris compared to where I live in Washington DC -- by 10:00 pm it still was not dark outside, which makes for nice long days. <BR> <BR>Monday I took a daytrip to Chartres -- took the bus to Gare Montparnasse & then a train from there to Chartres (note that if you buy a carnet of 10 tickets, you can use the tickets for the metro/RER or also for the bus in Paris). Arrived around lunchtime and enjoyed a FANTASTIC lunch at Le Boisson Ardent -- salmon in papillote with seafood risotto, a lovely muscadet, and the most incredible millefeuille -- the thinnest pastry with cream in between each layer and fresh strawberries. Highly recommended, very nice staff that speaks little English but are perfectly wonderful and welcoming. I admired the art on the walls and the manager directed me to a little studio a few blocks away, where I knocked on the door and was answered by a blonde woman in her 30s. I explained in my halting French that I had admired her work at the restaurant, and she said in her American accent, "Wouldn't you rather speak English?" I laughed and said yes, and she invited me in, showed me her work and her process (she uses, of all things, styrofoam in her printmaking), and I bought a piece before happily heading up to the cathedral for the afternoon tour with Malcolm Miller. <BR> <BR>Mr. Miller charges 50 FF for the tour, which is well worth it. On a sunny day, the windows are amazing. To think of the cathedral being built in the 1100s and still existing in the condition it is today was very impressive to me, surviving through all those centuries. <BR> <BR>Train back to Paris, awfully hot, I'd forgotten the lack of air conditioning on some of these trains, perspiration running down faces and bodies. <BR> <BR>Dinner at Chantairelle in the 5th -- a lovely walk past the Parthenon, on a tiny side-street. Made a reservation through their e-mail address on the website and was seated at a nice table on their outdoor patio in the back surrounded by ivy-covered walls and birdsong. Had the escargots to start and they were OK but I wouldn't order them again here (I've had them elsewhere and liked them, but here they tasted mostly of oil and salt), but my main course of filet de dore (sorry I can't make the accent mark on my computer) and fresh vegetables is fabulous, and the wine and bread are delicious too -- and the blueberry tart for dessert is to die for!

Part IV. Walked all morning -- down Blvd. St. Germain, rue Jacob, along the Seine, past the Musee d'Orsay, to Les Invalides (near which I saw some sort of protest, complete with smoke and firecrackers and lots of men carrying signs -- another good photo-op), to La Tour Eiffel (just had to see it again), and finally to La Fontaine de Mars for lunch (again, at a table on their sidewalk patio -- there's a pattern here). I'd heard they had a 90F menu at lunch, but today the menu consisted of salmon followed by more salmon, which did not appeal in quite such a large dose -- so instead I ordered the duck breast, which was excellent (and wine of course). If you go here, either reserve in advance, or arrive early (before 12:30, as I did) -- by 12:30 they were full and turning away lots of people. <BR> <BR>Afternoon at the Rodin Museum, which I'd never been to before. The inside of the museum was OK (very hot though), but the sculpture garden outside with all the roses was really beautiful, and a nice restful spot. The Gates of Hell was my favorite piece. I took the audio guided tour which was worth the money. <BR> <BR>Dinner Tuesday night at Chez Maitre Paul (reserved on Sunday), just around the corner from the hotel. Asparagus in vinaigrette for the first course, and the poulette gratinee for the main course (mmmmm!), with the house red, and creme brulee for dessert. All highly recommended. I found the atmosphere here amusing -- the manager who meets everyone at the door with a stern inquiry as to whether they have a reservation, the two young waiters doing their best to please him, and the three of them constantly running up and down the tiny old spiral staircase that creaks and groans and shudders with age...

Part V. Wed. morning, Ste. Chapelle. Wow. There are no words for the beauty of this place. The walls are almost completely stained glass, and even though it's miniscule compared with Notre Dame and Chartres, it is even more impressive to me. When I first walked upstairs and lifted my head, my eyes filled with tears. I had no idea. I think I missed this on my two previous visits partly because it's not the kind of thing you would notice if you were walking by -- you actually enter through the Palais de Justice and it is only once inside that you really see Ste. Chapelle. Go, go, go. It takes almost no time to see and is very much worth it. <BR> <BR>Lunch at L'Epi Dupin, near the Bon Marche department store. This was one of my favorite meals all week. If you don't reserve in advance, arrive early or late (for dinner definitely reserve in advance). There are a few tables out on the sidewalk (I lucked out by arriving late, around 2pm). Lunch menu, two courses with a glass of wine, 110 FF (great deal). I chose mackerel for my main course at the waiter's suggestion, and he was right -- it was moist and delicious, with a macadamia-nut crust and a sweet sauce that tasted a bit of soy and honey or molasses. Dessert was the most amazing chocolate cake-like concoction -- when you cut into it with your fork, a delicious warm fudge sauce ran all over -- spectacularly tasty. <BR> <BR>Afternoon at the Musee d'Orsay -- my third time, and as wonderful as I remembered. I love the top floor the most (plus the sculpture on the main floor of the woman bitten by a serpent). <BR> <BR>Dinner at the Bistrot de Breteuil, reserved two nights ago. This is my favorite meal of the week. I had read conflicting reports, but I found it fantastic. Kir royale (my first ever -- terrific), a green salad with mushrooms, red peppers, and crayfish tails, in a vinaigrette (delicious), bass for the main course (mouthwatering, juicy and delicate), and some sort of decadent chocolate pastry for dessert with layers of dark and milk chocolate cream layered between chocolate cake, all accompanied by a half-bottle of their house white, and coffee to finish -- total bill, 189 FF. I don't think you can beat it in terms of value for money. It's not just that the price is so reasonable and the food is so good, but the waitstaff is excellent and helpful as well, and the ambience is lively and friendly (plus it has outdoor dining too). I highly recommend this place.

Part VI. Thursday. Took the metro to Gare St. Lazare and then the train to Vernon (about 45 minutes from Paris), then the bus to Giverny to see Monet's house and gardens. Glorious! The flower gardens bring to mind the phrase "a riot of color" -- and the water lilies with the bridge look exactly as I'd always pictured them (although I'd pictured myself there without so many other people, but oh well). Monet's house is pretty too -- especially the view of the garden from the upstairs window, and the kitchen with its remarkable blue-and-white tiles everywhere. <BR> <BR>Back in Paris in time for a late lunch at La Cigale -- a souffle place I'd heard great things about, but I found it merely OK. I had a cheese souffle, a green salad, and chocolate souffle for dessert. I wouldn't go out of my way for this place. <BR> <BR>Afternoon/evening -- did a little shopping, sat outside and wrote some postcards, for dinner ate a crepe & drank some wine in some random cafe & people watched and dreaded leaving, packed very sadly -- turned on the TV for the first time while packing and noticed how many American shows they have on in French ("Buffy the Vampire Slayer" -- very funny). On CNN International the only news from the U.S. was about the Bush daughers being arrested for alcohol possession... <BR> <BR>Friday morning, checked out, ate the delicious breakfast at the hotel, and took the RER B back to Gard du Nord for the Thalys back to Brussels and then the train to Bruges.

I'm also glad to hear you like Balcons Lisa as I've just reserved a room for my first trip to Paris in October! By the way love the detailed report - makes fantasic reading! Thanks!

Part VII. I left Paris in short sleeves and capri pants, arrived in Bruges to find the weather about 30 degrees cooler and was happy to finally make use of the sweaters & coat I'd brought (and soon, the umbrella...). Upon arriving at the train station, I set out on foot for the town center, about a 15-minute walk. The closer I get to the middle of town, the more it looks like a fairy tale, or a movie set. I'm staying at the Hotel Cordoeanier, just a block or so north and east of the Markt square. Like Grand Hotel des Balcons, it is small, well-located, and very inexpensive -- 2150 BEF per weekend night (about $50 U.S.) for a single, including breakfast and tax. I have room 21, which has a nice little balcony and a private bathroom with a good shower (and a real shower stall with walls) but no tub (no matter). Like Grand Hotel des Balcons, there is no hair dryer in the bathroom, but if you ask at the desk they are happy to provide one. The room is spotlessly clean and very quiet. The room is tiny but has everything you need -- a tiny closet, a tiny table with tiny chairs, tiny everything. No A/C. The bed -- a double -- is a little soft, but comfortable. The decor is drab, but I like the room anyway. If I were a TV watcher I would find the TV being about 11 feet off the ground a little bizarre, but since I'm not, who cares. Breakfast includes cereal, yogurt, several kinds of bread (the raisin bread is outstanding), very good ham and two kinds of cheese, juice, and coffee. The staff speaks perfect English and are very helpful. <BR> <BR>Friday afternoon I explore the town on foot, take lots of pictures, and take a canal boat tour (touristy but fun anyway). Now it is getting increasingly cold and starting to rain. Dinner at a place recommended in my Cadogan guidebook and also recommended by the desk staff at the hotel -- Breydel-de Coninck, on Breidelstraat, the little street that connects the Markt to the Burg. Had the mussels in white wine with frites and a couple of good beers (so good I can't remember the names). <BR> <BR>

I at least do appreciate such detailed reports. And though they're probably much less interesting for me since I live there (but nevertheless I'm highly interested in your restaurant's review), it's the kind of posts I would like to read about a place I intend to visit. <BR> <BR>Please go on...(especially since I intend to go back to Brugge this summer...long time no see)

Part VIII. Saturday -- Pouring rain, windy, and really cold. Even with a long-sleeved sweater layered over another shirt and silk scarf, long pants, shoes and socks, and my spring/fall coat on, I'm freezing. I actually wish I'd brought gloves. Thank goodness I brought the umbrella. Since it's so lousy outside but I still want to see more of the town and it's my last day, I decide to take one of the minivan tours that leave from the Markt. It lasts about an hour and has a recorded audio commentary (you can choose your language). It's better than I expected and if you happen to be in Bruges during foul weather, I recommend it as a way to see a good bit of the town while staying warm and dry and learning a little bit about the various buildings. <BR> <BR>Lunch at the restaurant adjacent to the t'Koffiebuntje hotel, called Restaurant Le Bistrot Marc Van Dycke, at Hallestraat 4, about a half-block south of the Markt. Lovely atmosphere, excellent green salad with fresh vegetables, and the most fabulous, flavorful, North Sea fish soup, accompanied by fresh bread and a nice house white wine (I know, you're supposed to order beer when in Bruges, but what can I say...). I highly recommend this restaurant. <BR> <BR>Fortunately it stopped raining briefly after lunch, and I was able to do one of the self-guided walking tours outlined in the Cadogan book, walking east to the windmills. Got some photos that I hope will turn out of the windmills and some great architecture on the way to and from (many of the buildings conveniently have their date of construction spelled out toward the top of the facade, so you don't have to wonder how old they are). I still think the town looks like a movie set. It's very walkable and nothing is very far away. <BR> <BR>My only disappointment about Bruges is that so many of the major buildings are covered in scaffolding -- all at the same time, too -- just bad timing I guess. <BR> <BR>By dinner it's raining again and the wind has picked back up -- you can actually see your breath (I can't believe a couple of days ago I was sweating in Paris), so I head to dinner at the only cafe on the Markt recommended in the Cadogan that happens to mention the attraction of a FIREPLACE, which sounds good to me as I shiver (funny that I was worried about whether I'd need air conditioning in my hotel room). The Restaurant de Beurze does indeed have a fireplace. I order the smoked salmon with asparagus and potatoes, all of which is smothered in hollandaise. To be honest, it's a little too rich for me, but the beer in Bruges really is the best I've had (should've written down the names though). <BR> <BR>Another nice thing about the Hotel Cordoeanier is that they have a little bar downstairs -- there's never anyone there, but you can ask the guy at the front desk to pour you a nightcap to take back to your room... <BR> <BR>Forgot to mention the most important thing about Bruges: chocolate! The place that so many people on this site had recommended (Verbeke or something like that) has unfortunately closed. I walked by myself and checked -- there is a sign in the window that says something to the effect of thank you for your patronage over the years, but we're out of business. I was momentarily dismayed. However, the Cordoeanier staff recommended another little place for delicious, hand-made chocolates: Sweertvaegher. It's just about a half-block off the north-east corner of the Markt, and they have lovely, yummy things. I bought one little box for myself just to test & make sure it was good (mmm-hmmm), then another (just to really make sure) , then finally bought a bunch to bring home as gifts. The prices are reasonable too. <BR> <BR>The next morning I check out & take the 9AM train to Schaerbeek where I change for the train to Brussels airport & sadly fly home. <BR> <BR>Any questions, feel free to ask -- I'll check back tomorrow. Thanks to everyone here who helped plan this trip.

Lisa, <BR>Thanks soooo much for the detailed report. Especially about the chocolate and beer in Brugge, my trip seems ages away.... but I just can't wait, sounds like you managed to have a great time despite the wacky weather... where to next?? and can I hit you up for more Brugge info, as we get closer... did you hotel have a website?? <BR>

The English website for the hotel is: <BR>http://www.cordoeanier.be/testeng.htm -- the e-mail address is on the site and I reserved via e-mail (they were very prompt in responding). Rates during the week are a bit less than on weekends (my room that was 2150 BEF on the weekend is 1950 on weeknights). <BR> <BR>If you look on the website at the photo of the exterior of the hotel, the room upstairs on the far right with the balcony was mine (#21). As I said, it was pretty bare-bones, nothing fancy, but I was comfy there. <BR> <BR>In my report I forgot to mention the funniest thing on the whole trip. Many people on this site have commented on various toilets they have encountered in their travels. Well, I experienced the best of them all on this trip. The restaurant I went to on my last night in Bruges (de Beurze) has a ladies room upstairs that has the king of toilets. It actually has a name like a sportscar, like the DST 9000 or something like that (can't remember exactly). After you flush, stand back and watch. The toilet seat does gymnastics. It lifts up, rotates 360 degress, and an arm comes out and cleans the whole toilet seat, and then it all reassembles back to normal. I literally laughed out loud. They should charge money for people to come in and see their toilet.

Lisa, <BR>Thanks so much for a wonderful report. We are counting down the days until our June 21 departure for Dordogne-Paris-Brussels-Bruges. Since we will have our three children in tow, I'm wondering if any of the sights you saw, or restaurants you discovered would be particularly good for children, ages 12, 10 and 6. Thank you.

Lisa-wow! What a great report! Even if I wasn't going to Paris soon I would love to read it. I do have a couple of questions. <BR>1) How DID you manage to keep track of <BR> everything? (I LOVE the details) <BR>2) Am thinking of going to Bistrot de <BR> Breteuil while in Paris. Would it <BR> be good for a group? And/or L'Epi <BR> Dupin? (We might have as many of <BR> us as 10) We are staying in the 7th <BR> and only have 4 days (acutally 11 <BR> full meals). <BR>Thank you for any help! <BR>Patti <BR> <BR>

Lisa, what a great report! I'm printing out the parts on Paris (Brugges is not in the itinerary). I particularly enjoyed the rest. reviews. Thanks for taking the time and thought to put this in for the rest of us! <BR> <BR>Teresa

oooppppssss.... obviously meant to type Bruges! <BR>Teresa

Lisa - thanks for the great trip report! I had to laugh when I saw your name, because I kept thinking how good your St. Lucia reports were while my boyfriend and I were planning a trip there back in February... now I am planning a trip to Paris over Thanksgiving, so your observations and information are really helpful! <BR> <BR>L

Lisa: <BR> <BR>Thank you for the great travelogue. I am going to Bruges and Paris early in July. You mentioned taking the train from Bruges to Schaerbeek on the way back to Brussels Airport. I would appreciate hearing of a way to reverse the journey, directly from the airport to Bruges without stopping in Brussels. Where is Schaerbeek? Can you help?

Hi Lisa, <BR> <BR>Loved your report, you write so well! I've been to Paris 4 times and this was just like going again. Thanks for posting it. <BR> <BR>I'm printing this out and saving it for my next trip. <BR> <BR>Thanks again, <BR>Sandy