Just Back from Edinburgh...ahhhhhhh

Old May 27th, 2005, 04:06 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just Back from Edinburgh...ahhhhhhh

If you have not been to this incredibly magical city, start making your plans immediately. Stop reading this and go schedule your flight!

First time flying Contintental and I can't say I'll do it again. There was an ugly situation with an elderly lady, a gate attendant and a flight attendant. The employees were so rude and intimidating to her, for absolutely no reason at all. Some of us near her stood up for her and the matter was resolved but she was so badly shaken that I fear her trip might have been ruined. Whatever happened to kindness? The crew on my return trip was much better but I WILL be writing a letter to Continental.

Thanks to Caroline's tips on how to navigate from the airport, I easily sauntered toward the taxis. I was even able to aid several people who could not see the sign for the taxis, since it is slightly hidden. I heard several locals exclaim how everything was changed so I felt quite the pro! Yea, Fodorite Caroline!

Stayed at The Roxburghe Hotel on Charlotte. Incredible location. View of the Castle from my window! Unbelievable deal from orbitz.com. Great food, excellent service. My room was easily twice as large as the one my two daughters and I shared in Venice. BUT, I could have been in Chicago, NY, or back home in Atlanta. Far too modern and Western for my taste. It just doesn't fit with my need for going back into time when I visit Europe.

I arrived on May 21 and was told I would be unable to check in early since the Heineken finals had been going on and everthing was booked. So, I ate the hotel's full Scottish breakfast. Delicious. And then donned my rain gear and headed out for my adventure.

I love taking pictures of architecture so I quickly saw i was in Heaven. At one point I stepped into a doorway to avoid the rain and adjust my camera. A group of people was heading in and one asked whether I'd like to come in. I declined and continued on my way. A short while later, the misting rain turned into a downpour and I found myself stepping into another doorway, this one on the front side of the same building, which turned out to be Charlotte's Chapel. As I closed my umbrella, I heard about 50 sweet voices singing , obviously practicing before church service. Another person invited me in and this time I accepted.

As I entered this sweet little chapel, I noticed that the "50 voices" were coming from SEVEN women. The acoustics were amazing. So were their voices. When they paused between songs, the leader...turned out to be the first gentleman who had invited me in...spied me and welcomed me. That gave me the opportunity to tell them of my "50 voices" thought and they applauded the comment. We chatted a bit and the encounter ended with their singing Happy Birthday to me. What an exceptional birthday gift.

Another unforgettable gift was my get-together with caroline_edinburgh.

If any of you take my advice and go to Edinburgh, invite Caroline to meet you somewhere. She graciously arranged for us to have drinks at Whigham's on Hope St and then dinner at Centotre's on George St. Whigham's is marvelously dark and old, a great atmosphere. Fit right into my need to step back in time! Centotre's is located in an old bank building and has incredible food. I enjoyed my Chicken Primavera and Raspberry and Coconut Prosecco so much that I returned there later during my stay.

I cannot say enough about our fellow Fodorite Caroline. A charming, gentle, totally interesting person who entertained me wonderfully. Caroline, you were definitely one of the highlights of my trip. Thank you for your kindness, your time, your openness. Totally forgot to get info about how to contact you. Will address that when I'm not so braindead!

I AM so very tired that i will pause here and continue this thread later on. One interesting note: My voice instead my head has been speaking with that wonderful Scottish lilt for several days now! Wish I could mimic it out loud!

sallyjane3 is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 04:37 AM
  #2  
ira
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,699
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi SJ,

>the encounter ended with their singing Happy Birthday to me. <

That's terrific.
ira is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 05:17 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,076
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Glad you enjoyed it as much as we did, Sally Jane. Edinburgh is, indeed, an "incredibly magical city." And Scotland is the friendliest country I've ever visited.

And it's nice that got a chance to enjoy the company of Caroline as well!
mr_go is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 06:15 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Aww, you are too kind - I am blushing

You are an extremely nice and interesting lady and I very much enjoyed our evening together too. So glad to hear you liked Edinburgh so much.

I've just been feeling guilty I didn't think to tell you about the performance we went to on Wednesday - the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir singing Arvo Part's Canon of Repentance, in Greyfriars Kirk. It was really beautiful & I'm sure you would have loved it - sorry. In my defence, I can only say I didn't know it was going to be that good !

I'll look forward to hearing what you did for the rest of your stay.

Yes, as soon as we parted I thought of lots of things I hadn't asked you. How can we get in touch - is there a a way of exchanging e-mails via Fodors ?
caroline_edinburgh is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 08:10 AM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
(Yes, Caroline, let's figure out how to contact each other...)

To continue....

I am a quality-is-more-important-than-quantity traveler, so I did not see everything in Edinburgh. Didn't try.

What I did see I totally enjoyed, mainly b/c of the many kind, friendly people I encountered.

Like the volunteer at the Church of St. Cuthbert. When I entered the church and she greeted me, I commented that churches make me cry. She stretched to her full oh-maybe-4-foot-8-inch heighth and replied that she felt the same.

She took me on a special tour, devoted at least an hour to me, and hid her grin behind her hand as she escorted me to the tiny War Memorial Chapel and disclosed that Agatha Christie had been married there: "Not the first time, the SECOND time!."

I took my time exploring the cemetery and noted that the man who invented / created Logarithms was buried there. I considered asking him to explain what they are but since my math teachers could not get through to me, I decided to let him lie in peace.

I visited St. Mary's Cathedral, St. John's and St. Giles...my favorite b/c of those stained glass windows. Though, I have to say, standing in front of the painting "The Presence" in St. Mary's and reading of the adventures it's been on was memorable as well.

Walking along Princes Avenue and shopping at Jenner's were great fun...and the clerks at Jenners were wonderful sources of information about places to eat.

Workmen were busily and skillfully planting the Floral Clock. A nice pedestrain stopped to say he was sorry I wasn't getting the full effect, but I rather enjoyed seeing the work in progress. I could tell there were already hundreds and hundreds of teeny plants in the ground and they had barely started. What a tedious...and appreciated...job. I am sure the finished job will be lovely.

I took Caroline's advice and bought a ticket for Guide Friday hop on-hop off bus tour. This line has live guides...I experienced four different ones, actually...who are entertaining, informative and very funny. I highly recommend it.

The Holyrood Palace was closed while i was there. According to the bus guide, there was a High Commissioner visiting. I was disappointed, but that feeling soon vanished when i went into a nearby shop and discovered a beautiful framed photograph of the Castle at night. It was a hassle to carry on the plane but what a treasure it is. It's sitting in my den right now waiting for me to hang it.

Walking the Royal Mile is a must-do, even if you take the bus tour. The many shops...and friendly shopkeepers...make for quite an interesting time.

The National Gallery impressed me. The combination of natural and artificial lighting seemed perfect. i found myself in awe of some of the treasures displayed there. I left the building just as a group of bagpipers were marching by, letting me know without a doubt what country I was in!

Several hours of my birthday were spent at the Castle. I timed my visit so that I could be there for the One O'Clock Gun, which my daughter had told me not to miss. I had lunch at Queen Anne Cafe there. Excellent lamb and a decent glass of wine.

Many times during my stay I thought, "Oh, I could live here!" Each time, without exception, the wind would grab hold of my umbrella or the chilling rain would drench me again and i'd follow that thought with, "Well, maybe not...."

Ahhhh, but what a grand place to visit!
sallyjane3 is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 11:57 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What a lovely couple of posts, Sallyjane

and if you two internetphobics want to email me (I don't much care about Spam), I'll put you in touch with each other.
sheila is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 12:04 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 14,602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sallyjane3, what a beautiful trip report. Now I can hardly bear to wait to book a trip to Edinburgh. I have been before, but your narrative makes me ready to pack my bags. Thank you so much. And thank you ,Caroline, what a marvelous resource you are.
cmcfong is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 12:05 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,749
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So glad to see someone else fall in love with Edinburgh! I am headed back there in the fall with a girlfriend, and your report is making me a little less patient. I want to go NOW! lol!
Fodorite018 is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 12:11 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The TN Trio of Terror is thinking of going there in a year or two. Now I want to go right away. Will Sean Connery be there?
SharonG is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 12:33 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nah! he lives in California.
sheila is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 03:00 PM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
To Sheila: Thank you. As I said in the email I just now posted to you, you are a gem.
To you others: Thank you for your comments. It is so much fun to share some of my adventure in this unique city. I have traveled solo before within the US...many times. But this was my first solo European trip. Except for the difference in flight duration, I saw no difference in level of comfort, feeling of safety, degree of ease / difficulty finding my way around. If any of you are considering a solo trip, do not hesitate...especially to THIS city.
sallyjane3 is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 03:08 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,749
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sallyjane--I had been itching to get back to Europe, but I knew dh would have to work and the kids had school, so I was all set to go solo. I figured Edinburgh would be a good place for that. Then I talked an old girlfriend into coming along. I convinced her because I had already been there and knew it was an easy city to navigate, there is no language barrier, and overall it just is an easy fit. My friend has never been out of the country, so I needed a "safe" place for her to get her feet wet.
Fodorite018 is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 03:10 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,508
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great post, lots of atmosphere.

I too have been thinking of Edinburgh, unvisited by me for many years.

(As my dear spouse had three glorious years there as a doctoral student at the Univ of Edinburgh, I would be travelling with an expert!)
tedgale is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 03:34 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
mms, you said you needed a safe place for your friend to get her feet wet. Great pun, girl!! And I have the shoes to prove it!
sallyjane3 is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 06:09 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
sallyjane, it was great reading your post. I've just begun researching this city, as a daughter will be working there two days a week for several months, and I'd like to work in a visit to the city myself. I was unsure if I would actually book it, as I'm going back and forth with there or Dublin, and I think, for now, Edinburgh has won out, thanks to your post!
LoisL is offline  
Old May 27th, 2005, 06:17 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,749
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
SallyJane--Too funny about the shoes! We were there in February and with a snowstorm. I am used to cold, but I was amazed at how the wind could whip through the streets. That did not detract from the trip though!

Can you tell me more about your hotel? Price, location, etc. We have not booked anything yet as I am waiting for the prices to go down a bit.
Fodorite018 is offline  
Old May 28th, 2005, 04:14 AM
  #17  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi, Lois. I totally support your decision re: Edinburgh vs. Dublin. I loved Dublin; it's a great city, but Edinburgh ranks higher with me. Your daughter will love it.

Hello again, mms. The hotel was super, but one reason I think so is the LESS-THAN-HALF price I got on orbitz.com. I would have been a little displeased if I had paid the price stated on the hotel's website, theroxburghe.com.(As I have stated, no Old World atmosphere...which would lead some people to say Thank Goodness, I guess.)

Gotta tell you the sauna, indoor pool and ...ahhhh...the steam room really felt grand after battling the cold, wind and rain. There's a full fitness room as well, but I got enough exercise walking the Royal Mile!

Great food right there in the hotel and lots of other choices nearby. Location unbeatable.Excellent service, especially from one concierge that I would have loved to bring home with me!

My daughters conspired to have a birthday gift of some sort delivered to me on my birthday and one of them emailed the hotel several times. The Emailing One did not get a response until that very day. The hotel staff was so apologetic about the delay in responding that they brought me a great bottle of wine...at no charge to my girls!

I'd stay there again ...and get the Old World flavor right outside the door.
sallyjane3 is offline  
Old May 29th, 2005, 07:39 AM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,749
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you, SallyJane! I will check the hotel out. I meant to tell you also that I am planning on flying Continental. I sure hope I do see the same thing you did! They have the best flight schedule for me though. Let us know what you hear from them, if anything, after you write.
Fodorite018 is offline  
Old May 29th, 2005, 10:41 AM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 891
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sure thing, mms. One thing, though: The flight from Edinburgh to Newark was overbooked by so many people that the gate area was a MOB SCENE and the attendants were offering $800 vouchers for volunteers to give up their seat. No one wanted to, so no one got to board!

We were delayed about one and a half hours! (The plane was sitting there. This had to be the one reason for the delay in boarding!). That left me 35 minutes in Newark to go thru Immigrations, Baggage Claim, Customs, Baggage Check, taking the AirTrain from Terminal C to Terminal A and sprinting to Gate 27A for my flight to Atlanta. Horrible! So when you're booking, take this into account.
sallyjane3 is offline  
Old May 29th, 2005, 01:30 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,749
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the heads up! As it is the flights I want would give us about a 5 hour layover at Newark, so that would actually be good. Did they end up bumping people?
Fodorite018 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -