Mavis

Just returned from these areas. We stayed in B&Bs and self-catering cottages, rented a car at Heathrow. Used a Great British Heritage Pass, visited tons of gardens, estates, etc. Drank a lot of pints. Will gladly answer any questions.

candy

how bout an idea of your sightseeing itinerary in kent and sussex? how many days?

Mavis

Hi Candy. We spent four days in area, stayed in a B&B in Ockley, Surrey - let me know if you want info on it. The first day we went to Hever and Penshurst Place, both are very close to each other and were both worthwhile. Although Hever was very busy, like a mini-United Nations. Connected to Asters so lots of Americans, absolutely stunning gardens. We went because of connection with Anne Boleyn/Henry VIII - romantic to think of them courting there. Went to pub there, I think called Henry VIII, a bit expensive but interesting things on the wall. Penshurt was almost empty and we found it quite moody and masculine. The Great Hall truly amazing, also good gardens - owned by Sidneys - as in Sir Philip, favourite of Elizabeth I, in some ways doesn't seem as if much changed from his time. Second day went to Chartwell, my mom is a huge Churchill fan, very worthwhile, very much a home, then to Knole - again a huge contrast. Put us in proper mood for Sissinghurt on day 3 (common factor Vita Sackville-West) - truly amazing garden, luckily it was raining just before we got there so crowds at a min., then to Batemenan's, Rudyard Kipling's home. As a fledgling writer, was inspired by both writer's private spaces. Day 4, took train from Dorking into London, saw Miss Saigon, shopped, Art Nouveau exhibit at Victoria and Albert. We crammed in a lot but wouldn't change a bit. Let me know if other questions - wasn't sure if interested in places and/or pubs, or???

candy

thanks, mavis. i was actually hoping to cram even more into my kent days, so it was good to get your input. guess i'll have to be even more selective! that's all i needed, really, unless you have a really nice restaurant in the kent/sussex area? we're booked for one night at the gravetye manor, a very nice place, and have one other dinner to arrange. thanks again.

MarkJ

How was Cornwall? What did you see and do? My wife and are are thinking about a trip to the English Coast so I'd appreciate any info you can share. <BR> <BR>Thanks <BR>MarkJ

Mavis

Hi Candy - four places I can recommend, two in Rye, one in Hastings and one a bit out of the way (but worth it!) at Climping south of Arundel. In Hastings try Restaurant 27, I think it's on George St., French food, very cozy and we had great service. In Rye of course there's the Mermaid Inn - we found the restaurant expensive, but good and the surroundings can't be beat. Also tried The Old Forge in Rye which specializes in fish, very good. And last is The Tapestry Restaurant at the Bailiffscourt Hotel in Climping. Wow! <BR> <BR>Hi Mark. This is the third time I've been to Cornwall and I really love it. Although I've been told it gets really busy in summer, we've never been then so we always find it fine. This time we rented a self-catering cottage in a lovely little fishing village called Porthleven, just east of Penzance. If you go make sure to have a pint at The Ship Inn (it and the church anchor the harbour) built right into the cliffside (the stormier the night the better) and have a meal at The Harbour Inn, reasonably priced and very good. Our itinerary: <BR>On the way to cottage stopped at Cotehele, lovely old estate with interesting quayside bldgs. Found out you can actually stay there, in a part of the house, through the National Trust. That's our next trip. Next day were off to St. Just in Roseland - absolutely beautiful church in perfect setting with ancient headstones and amazing gardens and paths, then to St. Mawes, wandered the streets, very pretty houses with harbor full of boats. Walked to St. Mawes Castle, built by Henry VIII, fantastic views. Dinner at The Pandora Inn, a 13th c. smuggler's hideaway at Mylor Bridge. Next day headed to St. Michael's Mount - interesting trip across bay fr. Marazion in a small boat, we could walk back along causeway because tide was out. Then to St. Ives, the Tate Gallery (a branch of one in London) was impressive, although we found place very busy. Ate at The Sloop Inn. Okay. Day 3 to Lanhydrock, been there before and always impressed, believe The 90s movie The Three Musketeers was filmed there. 49 rooms are open to public! Drove on to Jamaica Inn on the Bodmin Moor - touristy but luckily we arrived in a thunder and lightening storm - was wonderful, the power kept going out which really added a spooky feeling. We, silly tourists that we were, then headed across the moor trying to find a place called St. Neot (the church there is supposed to have wonderful, medieval stained glass windows) and spent a harrowing two hours trying to find a road that wasn't washed out. Day 4 spent in Helston, nearest town to Porthleven, just wandered streets, shopped, visited all the charity shops, packed home a load of mysteries I've been searching for. Then to Trebah Gardens, wild and untamed, spill down to ocean, some American troops left from beach during D-Day, dinner at Trengilly Wartha Inn at Constantine. Very nice, set in a wooded valley. Next day to Tintagel to walk around Arthur's castle, not much there but if you have a good imagination it works. Mailed postcards from the Old Post Office, I think one of the first National Trust's - Tintagel doesn't have much to commend it in the town but lots of walks along the cliffs. Preferred Boscastle. Dinner at The Golden Lion in Port Isaac - apparently they have a secret tunnel which leads to sea, but we didn't get to see it. Last day we hit a bunch of nurseries, we both wanted to bring back English seeds for our gardens, then went through the County Demonstration Garden at Probus, just northeast of Truro. Gave us lots of ideas and inspiration. Ate at the Punch Bowl & Ladle, a 15th c. thatched pub at Penelewey. Hope this helps. Let me know if any questions. <BR>

Brenda Breslin

We have just returned from Cornwall. We last visited the place around 20 years ago and longed to go back ever since. I don't think there is another place in England that has such wall to wall beauty, character and atmosphere. The sea is such a dominant feature of the life style there. The Cornish folk don't view the sea as a plaything but as an integral part of working life. I found the standards of service and cleanliness exceptional. The food was wonderful. To anyone from abroad reading this don't miss cornish ice cream with a serving of cornish clotted cream on top. You will never forget the flavour.Leave your car behind and try out all the local ales in the characterful pubs. While in Cornwall forget branded foods and drinks. Eat the local produce and drink the local beer. Have a great time. <BR> <BR>Brenda

Angela

Thanks for the offer of help. Did you visit Painswick? Supposed to be near Stroud. Have an opportunity to go in Sept. and just starting to look into info. Can you get around without a car? Trains? Day trips by bus? I've never driven in the UK. Thanks for any advice.

Mavis

Hi Angela. No, I've never been to Painswick, although I've heard it's lovely. Probably didn't go because it wasn't included in the Great British Heritage Pass - and there were so many places that were included we tended to focus on those first (it also felt psychologically that we were getting in free since we'd paid for the card before we left home. We figured out we'd paid for the card after 4 1/2 days in England). Saw lots of other beautiful gardens tho' including those at Snowshill, Sudeley Castle, Hidcote Manor Gardens, Baddesley Clinton, the Shakespeare Properties, Charlecote, etc. To be honest we've never tried it without a car, unless we're just visiting London, although we've been going for some 20 years. I know it's easy for someone who's done it to say, but I've even drove by myself on solo holidays - what I like about it is that you really are ready for any adventure. You can stop at little pottery barns, antique stores, boot sales or just to admire a lovely view. However, you may not be ready for that - I know others have done things like stay in a bit bigger place where there is better rail/bus service - Moreton on Marsh for example has service fr. London, as does Oxford. You can also hire a car with driver for a day, or a few days, I believe there is someone who advertises that service in Chipping Campden for the Cotswolds, I'm sure there are others. I will try and get website/e-mail info, I believe I saw it on Chipping's website. Chipping Norton is also supposed to have decent bus service, as well as Stratford and Bath. There are also day trips to different places available by chartered bus tours, the British Tourist Authority would probably be able to provide you with brochures for companies - website: www.visitbritain.com I also believe in the backs of In Britain and British Heritage magazines there are companies offering tours for smaller groups. That said I'd still encourage you to try a car, maybe at first just rent for a day and see how you get on. And probably for the first time an automatic would be best - they cost more but it can get a bit disorienting sometimes to shift with the left hand - unless of course you're left-handed and then you've got it made. Good luck and let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

Janie

What did you see in the Cotswolds?

Angela

Mavis: Thanks for the thoughtful reply, including websites. I'm just starting to do my pre-trip research; this trip came up out of nowhere this weekend. Glad to hear you had such a great time and are willing to share your experiences. I've visited London many times and love it there. Just haven't gotten out into the country on my own before. I'll check the resources you mentioned. Thanks again.

Mavis

Hi Janie. I never can quite figure out how the Cotswolds can absorb so many people and yet always - or mostly always - seem so lovely. Day 1 we drove from Cornwall, which was a long day, so just settled into our cottage in Chipping Campden (thatched and quite wonderful), wandered around C.C. and ate at Joel's - absolutely fabulous. Very cozy and we were treated like royalty. Day 2 headed to Bladon - my mom is a Churchill fan and she wanted to leave some flowers on his grave - was actually quite simple and touching. Then on to Blenheim - nothing simple there. It's very impressive but it was too much for me, your senses reeled. Stopped at an antique fair in Woodstock, then drove on to Great Tew and had dinner and a pint at The Falkland Arms - one of my very favourite pubs, and wonderful food. I believe they have a website. Then stopped to see friends of friends at Heythrop Kennels - have horses and hounds, very nice people and the pups were lovely. Day 3 to Sudeley Castle, last home of Katherine Parr, the only wife to outlive Henry the VIII. Beyond words. (Was also where Elizabeth Hurley hid out from the press when Grant was getting arrested in L.A.). Shopped in Winchcombe, then to Snowshill, another perfect place. Loaded up on cheap second-hand books just outside the gate. Lunch at the Snowshills Arms - my mother said it was the best sausages she ever had! Day 4 to market in Moreton in Marsh, wandered about, shopped. Then to Chedworth Roman Villa, quite delightful, apparently one of the best examples of 2nd century Roman house in England. Then visited friends in Barnsley, also were able to tour Rosemary Verey's gardens - she consults Prince Charles on his. We were inspired and depressed all at the same time. Eight Bells in C.C. for dinner, found it a bit too precious for us so had 1/2 a pint and headed to Lygon Arms. Fabulous food. Day 5 to Chipping Norton for market day, didn't realize these were the same people basically, just travel fr. town to town, so moved on to Banbury, lots of shopping and more charity shops, loaded up on more mystery paperbacks. Lunch at the Three Pigeons, we felt a bit odd, seemed very much a local, but eventually people stopped paying attention to us. Day 5 was the treat - got tickets to Chastleton House which are difficult to get - a house the National Trust has basically left like they found it, quite different than anything else we'd seen. Afternoon at Hidcote Manor Garden, 'room' after room of surprises. Dinner at The Fleece Inn in Bretforton. Outstanding, although absolutely crowded. Day 6 to Stratford, nothing we fancied at the theatre so just wandered streets and had a pint at The Dirty Duck. Then to Baddesley Clinton my second-favourite National Trust - a moated manor where owners didn't have money to 'fix' up, I could easily imagine a murder dinner party there. Quick walk through Warwick Castle - been there before - were way too many people, busloads of Spanish, French, Italian students. Dinner at the Red Lion in C.C. - barwoman gave mom a pub towel she admired, made her day! Day 7 stopped off for Inspector Morse tour in Oxford and a few hours in Blackwell's books before heading to Sussex. Let me know if you have any questions.

jim

I've already read your messages about Cornwall, and I think you've given lot of information, very useful. <BR>I was only one day last August there, on morning we arrived to Plymouth from Roscoff, Brittany, and we spent the day visiting Penzance and Land's End, and we also did a trip to Falmouth. But there was nothing else we could visit, since next day we left Cornwall towards Wales. <BR>I think there was much more to see, and I would like to do this year or next. My ideas where coast-to-coast south-north, ending more or less in Tintagel or Bude. But I'm not sure about a couple of days on the Scilly islands? Have you visited them? What could you say about it?

Mavis

Hi Jim. Sorry, never been to Scilly Isles, tried once but had just missed ferry and were too nervous to take helicopter. Have talked to people who have been and they've said quite small and lovely, recommended staying on one island and hiring boat to take you to others on day-by-day basis. If you go would love to hear what you think - perhaps we'll include in our next trip.

Gordon R

Mavis, What a super posting; speaking as a native it's great to read such an absorbing trip report of your trip to England. I'm delighted that you got to see so much of the REAL country, away from the tacky tourist traps. I hope other visitors will follow your example. My wife and I try take the same philosophy on our visits to the US - driving right down the E coast or exploring the high desert in California. <BR> <BR>I often feel sorry for the less informed foreign visitors trudging around Leicester Square in huge tour groups, being ripped off by rapacious "restaurant" owners and never seeing the unique attractions in the coutryside away from London.

kk

Mavis, I really enjoyed your detailed reports of the literary and historical spots you visited. It sounds like a delicious trip. How long were you in England? Also, would you consider sending photos to s.fowler so she can post them on part of the website she keeps for fodorites' photos?

Mavis

Hi Gordon R. and KK. Thanks for your messages. I just adore England and to be quite honest in the 20 some years I've been travelling there it's getting harder and harder to get away from the madding crowds. We actually saw 'french fries' on a pub menu this time and caesar salad - the end of civilization as we know it I'm afraid. And came across a motel complex called 'The Pit Stop'! I worry that perhaps my adoring England and travelling there whenever I can save the airfare is, along with many others of course, contributing to her ruin. I'll just keep hoping that won't happen. Although I must say we met more delightful English people this time than probably ever before, and they don't seem to be bearing any grudges yet. Of course, it might be because it was only my mom and I and she's a delight. <BR>K.K. This trip we were there almost three weeks which I've found is just enough time to skim a new surface. Then next time I go back I often incorporate some of what really intrigued me the time before plus new stuff. I would love to provide photos to s. fowler, will follow up on that. Took far too many pics of gardens and not enough of people but made some use of them by selling idea for article to Canadian Gardening magazine on English gardens and what I learned that I can take home and use in my own garden. Would gladly provide copy - when it's written - as well as article I did on self-catering if anyone interested. Take care.