Just came back from Brittany for a 10 days walking trip.I would like to highly recommend this area. Before I left, I tried to do some research in the forum, but couldn't find much info.It is very surprising for such a beautiful area, how come not generate as much interest as Provence, loire or Dordogne? (I know the seaside resorts are popular among British)Besides,it is much shorter distance from Paris.<BR>In brittany, the landscapea are very diversified: there are green gentle rolling hills, expansive golden sand beaches,old forests,rugged rocky coasts,quaint medieval villages, lovely picturesque river towns,well-kept walled cities, 8-9 hundreds years old cathedrals, thousands years megalithes, interesting weekly markets even in small towns, many fish markets at the ports. Brittany is called the garden of France, colourful daffodils, camellias,primoses,tulips azaleas everywhere;almost every roundabout, street corners are mini gardens.<BR>I found the cost of travel is much less in Brittany. I had paid less than $10 for quite a few 3 courses good meals. $35 for nice clean room with bath. charming romantic room overlooking a 15 centuries water mill for $70.6 courses gourmet meal for $30.<BR>I have seen very few tourists, therefor, I did see idle hanging around train stations or bus stops. Being a solo female traveler, this is the first time I didn't have to keep constantly alert (not like in Provence or Tuscany). The people I met are all very warm and friendly,quite a few even went out of their way to help me out.<BR>By the way, I would like to thank Art and other people for their posts about Quimper. It is a lively small city with thousand years history.I really enjoyed the stay over there.

Correction: I didn't see idle people.....

Judy, it does seem that people on this board favor other areas of France over Brittany. I was really torn, myself, between Brittany and the Loire for our upcoming trip. I let my boyfriend choose and he chose the Loire. Next time it will be Brittany, though (or maybe Alsace, or maybe...???). I think the Celtic/French culture is fascinating and I'd love to visit the area and learn more. What other areas did you see and enjoy? What was the weather like at this time of year?

I'm glad to see the posting on Brittany.<BR>How did you find the walking paths? We <BR>want to do some walking this fall,but<BR>not with a tour group.<BR>

To ESS and Danil:<BR>The weather was very mild, Spring came much earlier in Brittany, that was why so many flowers fully blooming everywhere. The temperatur average about 15 C,in the southern part, even up to 20C. Except the last 2 days rained a bit, it was either sunshine or cloudy, because the ocean, the weather changes all the time, even rain never last long.<BR>I went to St.Malo first, stayed in the wall city for 3 nights.( walked on the wall every late afternoon to see the sunset, incredible view.) Took bus to Mount St.Michel, asked the bus driver dropped me a stop ahead, walked on the dike along the bay, aproaching St, Michel to see the Mount floating up the skyline.<BR>Bus to Pointe du Grouin ,walked to Cancale- the capital of oysters, drastic scenery, rustic old church by the port.<BR>Bus to Dinan, very well-kept old town high upon the hill, many half-timbered houses,visited weekly outdoor market,many flower boothes (had crepe with sausage),and centuries old Les Halles(the abundabce of fresh seafood !!). Walked down to the river, had a 3 hours walk along the river side through some old hamlets and gardens.<BR>From St.malo to Rennes,the capital. Old town interesting, Trebor garden worth visiting, the stain glasses in Abbey St.Anne very beautiful.<BR>From Rennes trainned to Quimper, stayed 3 nights. Lively old town, attended a concert at the Cathedral,many beautiful old houses.One morning while having breakfast outside Les Halles, saw people walked out of the market with a wooden basket oysters,sitting the table next to me, ordered a battle of white wine,started to open up the oysters, it was one of the most unusual breakfasts I have ever seen.<BR>Bus to Camaret, old fish port at the tip of Presquile de Crozon, wide golden sand beach, helped local digging clams under rocks besides the beach. From Camaret to Locronan-the proclaimed best preserverd medieval village in France, Took a 3 hours walk along Locronan's Montagne du Prieure, lovely green hills and seaview.<BR>Bus to Pointe du Raz, the western tip of France, had the most momorable walk in the whole trip, most dramtic,breathtaking sceneries, much better than the famous walk along Cinque Terre.<BR>From Quimper to Pont Aven,stayed 2 nights,romatic river town famous for Gauguin,it is still very artistic with many art galleries. Whoever goes to Brittay, highly suggest staying there at least overnight.The churking river, lovely old mills, almost dream like.Took 3 hours walk along river Aven to the Port Menach(SP???), though some tiny villages,<BR>Bus to Concarneau,one of the main fish port.The Ville Close is a small old walled island off the shore,very well-kept. interesting fish museum. Took long walk along the fish port and pleasure port,<BR>From Pont Aven to Carnac where the largest group of megalithes in Europe located. Thousands of huge stones standing on the fields sillently, with the backgound of cloudy sky, it was very moving. Went to Quibern, beautiful beach,and huge sand dunes on the other side, walked along the sand dunes to plouharnel.<BR>Vannes: interesting old town, impressive cathedral.<BR>Generally speaking, the walks in Brittany are easy to modest, the pathes well-marked by GR white and red marks.Probably because it is still early in the season, I haven't seen any other walker in the whole trip. Many tourist centres provide good walking or hiking maps. With a little plan, most of the routes could be done by using public trnsportaion.I have done many walking trips all over Europe, but never with tour company. To me, they cost too much and lack of freedom.<BR>

Sigh....sounds gorgeous! And laid back. I can't wait to get away. Thanks, Judy, for the vicarious thrill.

Thank you, thank you for reinforcing the anticipation and enthusiasm I have for getting to Brittany - - just as soon as possible, if I can figure out when my next trip to France will be. <BR><BR>Sooner rather than later, I hope!<BR>

When travelling in Brittany try to find a Fest Noz, a traditional music and dance festival. They are held many times during the year at different locations. Quimper has the most well-known.

I think, Judy, that the reason people don't crow about Brittany is that, beautiful, rugged, and inspiring as it is, it really isn't representative of what people think of when they think of France. It has a kind of "other" quality to it, because of all the Celtic influence. I agree with you that Brittany is inspiring scenically and culturally - and much as I like Provence, that area of the country has never "typified" France for me - but I do think that if one has only been to Brittany, one really hasn't had a taste of "la vrai France." For those who love the UK, it's certainly a great entrée into France. And for those who've seen lots of the rest of France, it's a delightful diversion. But when I think of France, I don't think of Brittany. I'm going back there this summer for the first time in about 10 years and will see if I can crystallize my thoughts on it better.

Thanks Judy, you did a great job making Brittany sound enticing. I had no idea that Brittany was called the "garden of France", all the more reason for me to finally get there...along with Normandy, Alsace, and the Dordorgne (so far, I keep returning to Provence.) <BR> <BR>Is the weather any more inclement and/or unpredictable there than in other regions of France? If so, could that account for the relative lack of interest in Brittany?

Judy: WONDERFUL report--it's a keeper for me, since I'm hoping to get to Brittany next year. Could you please post more details on Quimper--hotel and restaurants and did you go to the factory? We collect Quimper and are so anxious to make a "pilgrimage." Jody, from this board, will be anxious to hear this, also. THANKS!

Merci bien, Judy. What an adventurous solo traveler you are...brings back memories. <BR> <BR>I very much enjoyed your account. We will be spending 10 days in Normandie-Bretagne next month. I'll now make sure we make it to Point Du Raz, we thought it might be too far, but after your description...we are avid walkers too <BR> <BR>Definitely the menhirs are on the schedule. By the way, did you see convenient bicycle rentals anywhere you were? We were thinking of renting bikes in Caen, but maybe there are other options. I haven't tied down all those details. And if you'd be so kind as to share, where was that romantic room overlooking the water mill? Your account is fabulous. Pont Aven is a must now too. <BR> <BR>Aloha, <BR>k

<BR> Though I love Britanny, I can't add anything to Judy's post. Well..just a little thing : concerning hiking, I believe the eastern part of Brittany (especially Ille-et-Vilaine departement wich is...well...plain a) is less interesting than its western part, where you'll find

Perhaps this message has been posted twice...If so, sorry... <BR> <BR> Though I love Britanny, I can't add anything to Judy's post. Well..just a little thing : concerning hiking, I believe the eastern part of Brittany (especially Ille-et-Vilaine departement which is...well...plain) is less interesting than its western part, where you'll find IMO more beautiful scenery and villages. The coast is beautiful more or less everywhere and often breathtaking (think granite cliff, not sand beach) and the "sentiers des douaniers"(coastguard paths) which follow the coastline are great for hiking. <BR> <BR>By the way, I didn't meant that the Ille-et-Villaine is to be avoided : but there, you should look for the historical towns : St-Malo, Fougeres, Vitre, Dinan (the one I like the most) more than for the hikes (except in the Paimpont/Broceliande forest for a day or so) <BR> <BR>You need either to have a car or to like walking to enjoy britanny, since you can't expect convenient public transportations and since the most beautiful places tend to be in the middle of nowhere. <BR> <BR>During summer, there will be quite a lot of tourists, but it's nothing like the Riviera. <BR> <BR>And yes, the main reason why this region <BR>isn't well known (outside France...a lot of french people go during their summer vacations...quite a lot of british people, too)is certainly the weather. It's nothing close to Provence. Think London (and no it isn't that awful during summer...just...how to say that...unreliable). <BR> <BR>I second the advice Claude gave about the Fest-Noz. They aren't mere shows. People come to dance the traditionnal celtic dances. <BR> <BR>Also, Britanny gave to france one of its major achievment : the crepes. I'm not sure why, but they're still usually much better than in Paris, for instance. <BR> <BR>Did I say the coast is wonderful?

What is France? It is certainly more than Paris and the Loire chateaux. <BR> <BR>The heart of France is in its regions. Each one is so different. You travel 25-50 miles and you are in a new region and the cuisine, wine, everything changes. <BR> <BR>Of course Brittany is France--just as Provence and the Basque country are France. <BR> <BR>I have only dipped into Brittany at St. Malo, Mt. St. Michel, etc., but I have always wanted a home exchange in Quimper and someday I'll get one. <BR> <BR>I loved your trip report Judy.

Mahalo, claireobscure (j'adore le nom de plume). <BR> <BR>For us tropic dwellers the moody weather is a welcome change. And as a consumate chowhound fka foodie, I will seek out every manner of crepe and oyster sausage stuffed-or-not. Mmmmmm. <BR> <BR>I wonder if the daffodils will still be in bloom though... <BR> <BR>Now after this, I am rethinking our last five nights in Paris. Is that heresy? Maybe one less night in Paris, one more night in this magnificent countryside. And, should we not make a stop at Giverny on the way back, too? <BR> <BR>Ahh, la belle France..... <BR> <BR>

<BR>Mel:Following the suggestion of other fordorites,I stay at Hotel L'odet,one block off train/bus station, 170F per night with shower, basic but clean. <BR>There are several good restaurants: One starred L'ambroisie is quite good,but I liked "Capucin Gourmand" better,they have more imagination on the menu and better value.I tried 2 dinners with different fixed menu,both were satisfactory. Don't miss the Patisserie Andre Rolland, right across the Cathedral, exceptional good pastries. <BR>Since I hate to carry things, I make a point never shopping (except some light food items) when travel, I am afraid I ddin't go to the factory,but,there is a beautiful old church right next to the shop. <BR>Kelena: Sorry I don't know about bike rental, but,from the guide books, there are several in big towns.Or you could try the self-guided bikeing tours offered by tourist centres, the prices seem very good. <BR>In Pont Aven,I stayed at "Moulin De Rosmadec",one starred restaurant since 1936. They have 4 rooms for rent( 500F per night),charming,spacious room(with modern bathroom, by a huge camilia tree.In the night, overlooking from huge windows the lighted churkling river,pretty flower boxes, old willow trees. It was indeed very romantic.The meals were very good, freshest ingredients simply cooked. The 300F fixed menu is the best value, better than their tradition menu. The owener/chef and his family are very warm and friendly. <BR>About good food, there are several restaurants I have tried are good value too. In Rennes:"Four a Ban"( near Abby St.Anne) 90F fixed menu with one of the best roasted quail. In St.Malo: One star"A laDuchess Anne" was adequate but over priced. "Delaunay" was much better at food and prices.I tried 2 different menus, they handled seafood better than meat. In Carnac: I had one of the best value meals in "Auberge le Retelier".180F for 6 courese beatifully cooked. <BR>I really can't say enough about Pointe du Raz.I have visited many different rigions in France, but to me, it is a real must.

Yes to the "best crepes" I've ever had. Mostly made of buckwheat flour in Brittany and called "gallettes." I've been lucky to have nothing but gorgeous weather on my several visits, and gorgeous it was!

<BR> <BR> I never had any problem finding bikes for rental in Brittany. Just ask the local tourism office. However, sometimes, the bikes...err...weren't exactly brand new. So it could be better to pick at least two adresses. <BR> <BR> In Rennes, by the way, it's especially easy to rent a bike since the town tries to promote biking. You can easily rent one for the day for a really cheap price (with a check as guarantee, though). However, as I wrote before, the countryside around Rennes isn't the more beautiful you can find.

Your wonderful post stirred memories of a trip I made about 20 years ago with a boyfriend. We biked for 3 weeks around Brittany, and stayed in all the places you mention, as well as a few more. It IS a beautiful (hilly, windy, rugged) region, and well worth visiting. <BR> <BR>We took a boat trip to Belle Ile; of course, I got violently seasick, and my friend spend the day riding around the island while I lay on a bench in the port the entire time! <BR> <BR>The region identifies itself more as Bretonne and less as French; or, at least it did when we travelled 20 years ago. The Celtic sensibility is there (and so is the weather: we travelled in June, had 3 days of sun, and the rest was cloudy and rainy). <BR> <BR>But your description of Brittany is as perfect as it can be; and I remembered, too, a beautiful walk along Pointe du Raz. Thanks for the description-- and reviving my memories! <BR> <BR>