Just back from Bella Napoli
May 30th, 2001, 01:16 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Just back from Bella Napoli
Anyone who thinks Naples is dirty and grubby just doesn't love big cities! I just spent a week and a half in this incredibly vital, beautiful (yes, beautiful), charming, chaotic, wonderful city and I'm sorry I didn't have more time to spend there. I'm sure that staying in the 4* air-conditioned Hotel Miramare and breakfasting on their flower-bedecked roof terrace overlooking the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius contributed enormously to my great visit. And with a bus stop around the corner, I was able to get around the city very comfortably. I ate in quite a few restaurants, and, as a single, loved the atmosphere in La Bersagliera on the marina best (less formal, more distractions ---castel, boats, scenery)and ate there quite a bit. I couldn't get over the differences among the neighborhoods--Vormero, "royal" Naples, Spaccanapoli--such different kinds of spaces and scale. Many buses have circular routes and I just kept taking buses to the last stop and returning. It's a great way to tour the city. I went to the opera which was wonderful, especially in the extraordinary San Carlo theater, and spent a lot of time eating pastries at the Gambrinus cafe in the center of town. The traffic was altogether unreal, and I'd have to call Naples a paradise for jaywalkers. I was having such a good time wandering around outside, I had to force myself to go to the museums. But I went and wasn't disappointed. The Archaeology has a great collection, and the Capodimonte has a marvelous collection of Italian Renaissance paintings. I could go on and on, but I'd rather answer any questions you might have. <BR>
May 30th, 2001, 01:39 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Carol - <BR> <BR>Glad you enjoyed Naples as a solo female, as it is in my plan for a trip in October! I'd love more suggestions for restaurants (inexpensive to moderately-priced.) I've never worried about walking at night in other cities, but wondered about Napoli. Sounds as if you managed just fine, which is encouraging to hear.
May 31st, 2001, 01:23 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Carol, <BR>We will be able to take a train right into Naples from Formia <BR>(I'll drive to their airport to pick up my friend, but NOT into the city!) <BR>Any suggestions for 2 first-time females , and 2 pre-teen/teen children, if we make a day of it in naples? <BR> <BR>Naples was on our schedule, while my husband was still in the picture, but since he is leaving early, I kind of put Naples on the back-burner.I guess it's "scary" rep biased me. <BR> <BR>so, any one or two things stand out, that might interest the 4 of us? <BR>(give my son a good slice of pizza, and he will be happy) <BR>Any bus routes to avoid? <BR>Thanks. <BR> <BR> <BR>
May 31st, 2001, 09:45 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Here are some suggestions for 2 days in Naples, in no particular order: From the Miramare, it's a 5 minute walk to the Piazza del Plebescito, Galleria Umberto I, Teatro San Carlo opera house and the Palazzo Reale. The Gambrinus cafe which is in the center of this area, has a beautiful 19th century interior and also outdoor tables. Have a sfogliatelle pastry or a baba au rhum there--or in the late afternoon, have a cocktail like the Neopolitani do. If you're there on a Saturday or Sunday, they give tours of the opera house at 2:30 pm. Branching off from the piazzas are two of Napoli's favorite shopping streets--Via Chiaia (pronounced key-eye-a)and Via Roma aka Via Toledo, and it seems like the entire population shops there every afternoon after 4:30 or so. <BR> <BR>If you are art lovers, do the two museums: National Archaeology, and Capodimonte. From Via Santa Lucia, which is a block or so behind the Miramare, you can take bus #25 to the Piazza Municipio (@5-10 minute ride), and then take the #24 bus up Via Toledo to the Capodimonte. After you do the Capodimonte, you can take the #24 back down Via Toledo and get off right at the Archaeology museum. Both museums are open all day; the Archaeology is closed on Monday, Capodimonte on Tuesday. <BR> <BR>Finally, do go to Spaccanapoli (the old town) and wander around the very narrow streets, perhaps visiting some of the extraordinary old churches. The same #24 bus stops at Piazza Dante and may even stop at Piazza del Gesu, which is the best place to begin a walking tour of the area. The reason I mention the buses is that once you leave the port and "royal" areas of Naples, it's built on pretty steep hills, and my philosophy is to save my energy for walking around the places I want to see, not spend it getting to them. <BR> <BR>The restaurants I ate in were in easy walking distance of the Miramare and I'd recommend them all: Il Posto Accanto, La Cantinella, Ciro a Santa Brigida, and La Bersagliera. <BR> <BR>Nancy, I'm not sure that there's much of interest in a day trip to Naples for the kids. I think Pompeii and/or Herculaneum would be more fun. <BR> <BR>Lesli, I felt very secure walking at night near my hotel which was on the water where people promenaded all evening. I wouldn't have felt that way in the old town, for example. <BR> <BR>Hope this all is helpful.
May 31st, 2001, 02:26 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
We loved Naples as well...did you have a cafe con panna at the Grambrinus? What a surprise...heavy whipped cream with some coffee in it...it was heavenly but not what we were expecting..it filled us up before dinner. A restaurant we really enjoyed was Ristorante Mimi... <BR>Just the walking around was so much fun...such a colorful city in one respect with all the laundry hanging but before easter so everyone seemed to be wearing black and heavy coats even though the weather was quite mild...would go there again in a heartbeat
Jun 1st, 2001, 12:31 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
I am so glad to hear that someone else could look past the obvious and see the real Naples. I have lived here for close to two years, and get so angry when i hear people talk only about the dirty city, as if all the major cities in the USA are spotless...and the Food!!!
Jun 1st, 2001, 05:26 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
This is such an interesting thread. We are renting a villa near Sorrento for most of our two week trip, but will have to stay in a hotel for the last two nights. We were planning to stay in Sorrento, but after reading all the positive comments we are considering staying in Naples. It would make it so much easier since we are departing from the Naples airport. We leave in a month, so I hope we can still get reservations at a very nice hotel. Any other suggestions besides the Hotel Miramare? Thanks for the information.
Jun 1st, 2001, 06:45 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Carol - <BR> <BR>Welcome back! I'm so glad to hear you had a wonderful time in Naples. I knew you would. <BR> <BR>You did so many of the things I did - ate at the same restaurants - stayed at the same hotel - I got to relive it all over again. How wonderful! <BR> <BR>Dona
Jun 1st, 2001, 08:06 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
I was so happy to see this thread at the top. We just returned from Italy two weeks ago, and are so "homesick" we've decided to return in October. We are very interested in antique mandolins and apparently Napoli is *the* place! <BR> <BR>I am so encouraged by the reports on this post - have always been a little timid about spending time there, but knew there were some wonderful things to see and do! <BR> <BR>So, would appreciate hotel recommendations in the $100-and-under range - we are budget travellers and enjoy small hotels and B&B's. I will search different websites, but would like your input on best areas and any personal hotel experience anyone has in this price range. <BR> <BR>Thanks so much for your help!
Jun 2nd, 2001, 12:20 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
I am glad to see that some people had a very nice tme in Napoli. As for me, the one thing I liked was the good shopping and great prices. the food was also very good. I found a very good restaurant in the main shopping drag there. I was there in late january and the weather was pretty good except for a couple of rainy days. However, during this trip to Naples, I survived two near muggings. Yes, I am an American Naval officer, and no, we will never blend in no matter how hard we try. But unlike most other countries in Europe, I felt that in Napoli especially, we had to watch our backs. As for the nice hotels over looking the bay, very nice places indeed, but we got ripped of there too. Maybe bad luck. <BR>
Jun 2nd, 2001, 01:26 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hello, Ann - I'm not too concerned about price. We were planning to stay at the Bellevue Syrene in Sorrento. It was about $250 or so per night for each triple - we need two rooms. It is a special trip so I would like a very nice hotel in a good area. What would you suggest? Thanks for your help.
Jun 4th, 2001, 06:40 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mari, <BR> <BR>Try the Miramare and the five-star hotels on the Via Partenope: the Excelsior, Santa Lucia and Vesuvio. They all have websites. The Miramare's is www.hotelmiramare.com. You just might get lucky with a room, and the area is so convenient to everything, I'd definitely give it a try.
Jun 4th, 2001, 06:58 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Gail--I just checked out Ann's recommendation of the Parteno for my own information, and it looks terrific. I especially like the location by the water, right across the street from the Villa Communale, a huge lovely park, and by the Piazza Victoria, which is a hub for lots of buses. I think it's a perfect place for under $100 and I'd book it immediately if I were you.
