Just got back last night from spending two weeks in Rome, Florence, Siena and Venice. It was an absolutely amazing and life changing expereince. I have to thank everyone here for their great advice. Most importantly, my husband's strict no sugar/no starch/no dairy diet was absolutely no problem. The food was fresh, wholesome and make your tastebuds explode. We stayed at the Fodorites' recommended hotels - San Carlo in Rome, Ghiberti in Florence, Santa Caterina in Siena and Galleria in Venice. Our rooms were nothing to write home about - we have to keep in around the E150 budget. The Ghiberti was the nicest, with the biggest room and the most modern bathroom. It was kinda nice to hold a real hairdryer instead of the thing that looks like a vaccum cleaner hose! And why is there never hair conditioner with your shampoo? Some highlights:
- best part of the trip: Toscana, the drive on SS146 from Montalcino to Montepulciano was breathtaking. We went back to Siena that night for dinner at Il Campo, and was planning with my husband on what little drive we were going to take the next day; dinner was slow in coming, so I kept looking over at the big clock, and I kept seeing 30 with the time; well, not used to seeing an analog clock with a date on it, it finally dawned on me that we were supposed to return our car to Florence the next day to go to Venice! We were having so much fun in Tuscany that I totally lost track of our time there;
- the city that surprised me: Rome, I didn't think I would love it as much as I did. The city itself is living history, it's not all just inside a museum;
- most awe-inspiring sight: St. Peter's Basilica. It just took my breath away when I walked in. And it's free. We've paid for more to see less;
- best meals: Il Ritrovo in Florence, La Piscine in Venice - not only were the food amazing, they are the only two restaurants with smiling and friendly helpful wait staff that we are used to in Canada;
- funniest thing I saw: a lady tripped over a pigeon walking across Piazetta San Marco while getting into position for a photo - don't worry, she didn't fall, otherwise that wouldn't have been funny, we had a polite chuckle. We walked some distance away, then my husband turned to me and said "guess neither of them got out of each other's way", that was when we really lost it!
- the one moment when I felt like I can just die happy right then: having breakfast at 8:00 (before it got too hot) at one of the tables overlooking the Tuscan countryside at Hotel Santa Caterina - I don't think I ever felt such peace and joy;
- gondola ride: we did ours at 6:00 - not quite the optimum time at dusk, but it was surprisingly quiet. I had expected waves slapping against the side of the boat, but you don't feel a thing, even when we got out to the Grand Canal. We only did a short bit on the Grand Canal to see the Rialto Bridge, but even with the motorboats next to us, the gondolier was able to steer it in such a way that you absolutely feel no rocking;
- my favourite foods: soups and risotto of any kind;
- the only smiling friendly person who worked in a tourist attraction: the older gentleman at the bag check in Pisa;
- the Secret Itinerary and Scavi tours are as amazing as everyone says;
- the one place I thought where they should have more friendly staff: the Vatican! If not there, where else??
- an Air Canada agent in Fumicino was checking our tickets and passports and saw that we were returning to Calgary, she told us she lived with her uncle in Calgary for nine months, and her uncle has an Italian restaurant that is very good (and she said she wasn't saying it just because it is her uncle), so when we're missing Italia, we would be sure to visit that restaurant;
- the best bed: after a long 14 hour flight back to Western Canada with (thankfully) one connection, we fell into our bed as soon as we got home, and it felt like we were sleeping on clouds!
We found it surprising that Italy hasn't updated their infrastructures to handle the number of tourists that pour through their country - there are no ramps out of train stations to roll down your luggage, the road signage system is confusing - I don't know how people in wheelchairs get around in any of their cities, especially Venice. This was an absolutely beautfiul experience, and there is so much more in the country to see, but with the poor Canadian exchange, it was a horrendously expensive trip for us, so who knows when we can return again I do have one more question to post - since clearing Customs is still fresh on my mind, there is a question on the Canada Customs form that asks whether you've visited a farm, we remember seeing a lot of agriturismo(sp) in Tuscany, does that pose a problem to them if a person should stay in one of those? Again, thanks to everyone!

glad you enjoyed your trip, welcome back.

Hi mit,

Glad you enjoyed your visit.

>a question on the Canada Customs form that asks whether you've visited a farm, ....<

This is for when there are outbreaks of hoof and mouth disease. It can be spread by walking through contaminated areas.

I love the enthusiasm that comes through in your report, thanks for sharing.

<<And why is there never hair conditioner with your shampoo?>>

I'm guessing that 90% of the humans on the planet do not know what hair conditioner is, and would have no idea what is its purpose.

Best wishes,

Rex

Just curious - when were your travel dates?

We stayed at San Carlo May 16-20 and Ghiberti from May 23-26. We also ate at Il Ritrovo on May 24th!

Great trip report! I enjoyed reading it!

Erical, we were in San Carlo May 22-25 and Ghibert May 26-28, we were hot on your heels!

Rex! You are so wrong about hair conditioner. And since half the world is female, at least they would know about it. Maybe you don't have hair?

This is why I envy first-timers to these magical cities and regions. While I will certainly get another chance to visit them again someday, I can never experience them <i>for the first time</i> ever again.

Well done, Mitmap, and well said. Now you know what all the fuss is about!

(BTW, I'll get to be a first-timer again starting in a couple of days...this time to Capri, the AC, and Naples!)

Sounds like you had a really enjoyable trip, Mitmap! Thanks for posting your perceptions of beautiful Italia.

I realize that this is a week old, but just now stumbled upon it...

&lt;&lt;I'm guessing that 90% of the humans on the planet do not know what hair conditioner is, and would have no idea what is its purpose.&gt;&gt;

&lt;&lt;Rex! You are so wrong about hair conditioner. And since half the world is female, at least they would know about it.&gt;&gt;

I think you don't know where 90% of the world's population lives. And I have plenty of hair - - but tyhanks for asking...

And to Mr_Go (you are Bob's son? I never knew that! and just found out last week! cool...)

&lt;&lt;While I will certainly get another chance to visit them again someday, I can never experience them for the first time ever again.&gt;&gt;

I submit that you can come very close by <i>taking other people</i> who get to see &quot;it&quot; for the first time. My preferred mode of Europe travel now, and the foundation for why I have promoted the idea of &quot;Fodorites' trips&quot; - - a win-win for veterans and newbies alike, by pairing up...

Mitmap, I had that same experience having breakfast in the garden at Santa Caterina. Nice report.

Mitmap: Been to Calgary recently(went to Chateau Lake Louise last Fall for Charlene Prickett's Fall Adventure and it was fantastic) and have friends there. What's the name of the Italian rest. you mentioned in your post? Would love to pass it on to them! They own a liquor store-I'll get the name. BTW, Calgary chocolate is yummy! Later I'll have to talk to you about the skiing in Banff area...

Hi from Toronto(formerly Sask.) Enjoyed your report.

Rex:

Pray, where DOES 90% of the human population live? China, India? I think the combination of those two countries would comprise a majority of human population in the world, no? Since I've been to quite a few remote places in the world, I'd stake anything that an out and out majority of women, if not men AND women around the world know what hair conditioner is, even if they themselves can't buy it or don't use it.

It might surprise you to know that there is television all over the world, even in the poorest of villages-I've seen it from Indonesia to Thailand to Cambodia to China-and CERTAINLY in India. If people don't personally have a television, there's generally one in the village, somewhere. And where there is televsion, there are commercials-and commercials for hair products are very prevalent-all over the world. If I can walk into a mid-sized city in the middle of China and see three hair salons on a street, all equipped with flat irons and infra-red lamps, I think chances are pretty good that most women in the remote parts of the world have at least seen it on tv and know what hair conditioner is-and I might add, I've FREQUENTLY seen hair conditioner commercials in Thailand AND China, to name just two places in the world with a rather large human population base!

In other words, your &quot;90 percent of the humans on this planet don't know what hair conditioner is&quot; statement is more than a little naive, not to mention, waaay inaccurate!

I , of course, know what it is though I don't need to use it. I suspect we in Europe don't use it as much as americans, maybe you can buy (if it's a long trip) a head&amp;shoulders shampoo or any other similar to use while your here

Enjoyed your report Mitmap. Any comments about your stay at the Galleria in Venice? I have reservations there in Sept. and am interested in your experience there.

I have to comment about the Vatican and not &quot;more friendly staff.&quot; We were constantly surprised by the number of people that think they should be able to talk, laugh, give tours, etc. in the Sistine Chapel (it is forbidden to speak), take pictures although places expressly forbade it, wear whatever in St. Peter's (shoulders and knees must be covered) and basically have NO RESPECT for things - we actually saw a guy in Monaco, in the chapel where Princess Grace and Prince Rainer are buried, stand on one of the side altars and TOUCH the things on the altar. HELLO! Follow the rules, follow common sense, be respectful, and you won't encounter &quot;unfriendly&quot; people - everyone, except a lady at the ticket office at Doge Palace, was VERY helpful and friendly to us.

PS Do you realize how many tourists (Catholic and non-Catholic) go to the Vatican a year? Wouldn't you get a little cranky if you had to put up with so many people with no regard to the sanctity of the place?

Mitmap,
What a wonderful trip you had!

I agree with you about Rome. My husband and I were both shocked at how much we loved it.

By the way, I'm pretty sure there is a ramp from the Venice train station. I think we went out a door to the left (looking toward the Grand Canal), and there was a long easy ramp down the side of the building. There were luggage carts there, too.

Byrd-

Yes, the Venice train station has a ramp just as you describe...on the left as you walk from the trains toward the main doors (with the Grand Canal in front of you).