We returned Sunday (May 7, 2000) from 3 1/2 weeks in Ireland. While no expert, I will be happy to try to answer any questions. We flew into London, stayed three days and then flew to Dublin. Three days in Dublin and then off in the rent car to wander around and try to experience Ireland and its people and scenery. We drove down to the Waterford area, on to Tramore, Kinsale, Ring of Kerry, Dingle, Doolin, Galway, Donegal, Killybegs, Rynvale, Derry, back to Shannon, then to north of Dublin (Drogheda), into Northern Ireland again and up around the coast and finally back to Dublin/London and home. Sounds like a lot, even in 3+ weeks but somedays we only traveled 50 miles or so from B&B to B&B and then just explored all around. <BR> <BR>We found Ireland to be a beautiful place with tiny little roads, lovely food and the nicest people this side of New Zealand. The west coast is, indeed, a beautiful area but there are other interesting and pretty parts of Ireland to see as well. <BR> <BR>Thanks to all who patiently answer questions on this forum. You guys make it so much easier to plan a trip than it used to be. <BR> <BR>CS

Dear CS, <BR>Thank you so much for offering some advice, and yes, please, I'm interested! Could U pls recommend a one-star htl or B&B in Central Dublin? By inexpensive accommodation I mean something like US$ 20-25 per person per night. Does that exist? ;-) <BR>Thanks in advance, <BR>Gláucia

I loved your post, and yes I'd love help. I've done the southwest, and will be traveling in august to the northwest--we have just seven days, i plan to go to doolin, then up to clifden, westport, perhaps some of donnegal and then down to knock-- too ambitious?? what should we definetely see=== i like the untouristy place thanks so much for any help

Hello! <BR>Sounds like a glorious three weeks! <BR>How generous of you to offer some help. we're going in for ten days and wonder what route you'd recommend?after flying into Shannon should we head north towards Galway and across to Dublin where we fly out of and want to spend two days OR go south west <BR>(even though we hate the sound of those tiny windy roads) and make our way towards Dublin that way. Do you think we can go to Galway AND do part of the southwest? We've heard such lovley things about it all.. <BR>Any help would be appreciated...thanks!

Glaucia: I am afraid I do not know of a centrally located B&B or hotel that charges only $20-25 per night. Dublin has exploded in recent years with a steep rise in rents and hotel rates. We stayed in Ballsbridge near the American Embassy with an internet rate of 79 punts per room. We were very pleased with the hotel and the bus service into town was easy once we figured out exactly which buses to catch. I think the closest thing to what you want (other than a hostel) would be Jury's Christchurch Inn. It is directly across the street from Christchurch and they charge by the room, not by the person. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to get reservations for a room at the Inn because it is such a bargain by Dublin standards. As I recall, the rate is something like 59-65 punts but you can get 4-5 people in one room. Their website is www.jurys.com and phone is 014540000 or 1-800-44utell from the US. We talked to a family of 5 that had stayed there and they were happy. Hope this helps. <BR>CS <BR> <BR>Mabyrnes: I believe you can do that without too much stress. I have heard, however, that August is a super busy time in Ireland and you may want to take that into account when planning places to stay. We talked with many B&B owners who said they filled up from about May 15 until September 15. For August, you might want to make all of your arrangements in advance. As far as must-sees. I would strongly suggest you go to Glenveagh National Park. The entrance is just outside of Church Hill off R251 and was one of our favorite places in Ireland. Touristy, perhaps, but gorgeous all the same. We loved the fact that there are no cars allowed in the park. You want to explore it--you walk (other than the house and garden). From the visitor center (which is not much) you catch a bus to a beautiful home and garden set on a lake. The history of the house is most interesting and the garden was one of the loveliest we saw in Ireland. Just remember, when planning on driving in Ireland: it takes about twice as long to get anywhere as it does in the states. You will be amazed at the road system. One gentleman I talked to at a pub told me "Ah, darlin, if we made the roads better, more people might come!!" In addition, tractors and other farm machinery are all over the place slowing traffic sometimes to a crawl. It's all just part of driving in Ireland and is charming (unless you are trying to get somewhere by a certain time). <BR> <BR>Doolin is tiny but with a great restaurant. If you can get into the Doolin Cafe, do it. Soem of the best food of the entire trip in a place that holds 20 people max. <BR> <BR>Drive through the Burren --amazing...looks like the moon. Drive through the Connemara--gorgeous. We stayed in Rinvyle in a super B&B with great views and a great breakfast. Definitely off the beaten path and a little bit hard to find but certainly worth it. Sea Breeze, Gurteen, Renvyle, Co. Galway, phone 095-43489. One of our favs. Hope some of this helps. <BR> <BR>CS <BR> <BR>Sophie: I would head for Killarney and see that whole area wich will take you at least 2 days, maybe 3. The scenery is so dramatic but if you hate tiny twisty roads, you may not be too crazy about driving the Ring of Kerry. There are parts that are quite tiny and difficult but it is definitely worth it. I would not suggest you head for Dublin until the very end of your trip. While all of Ireland is pretty, the west coast is by far the prettiest. After Dingle and Ring of Kerry, head up the coast for Galway and the Connemara, again planning on 2-3 days to really see it. From Galway, it's not that far to Dublin on N6 (if you don't get behind a tractor). Ireland is a wonderful place and I know you will have a great time. <BR>CS <BR> <BR>

CS, you forgot to mention the sheep and cows on the road also! <BR>Sophie, I suggest you park your car in Killarney and take a tour bus around the Ring of Kerry. That way even your driver can enjoy it. It is very reasonable. <BR>I would suggest to anyone who plans to stay in Dublin to consider Dunlaoghaire; it is a pretty harbor town with nice homes, a fifteen minute DART ride south of Dublin. It is quiet but has good B&Bs and restaurants. <BR>Mabrynes, Doolin is a fun little town with good restaurants and lively pubs. It is not much of a town, really, more of a long string of buildings along the road. <BR>We got a rental car in Dublin, toured for three weeks in the south and west and dropped it off in Galway. Then we took the train back to Dublin for our flight home. I don't recall the fare but know it was not expensive,less than twenty dollars I think. <BR>Ireland is such a magical place. I agree, it has good food and wonderful people. <BR>

CS Glad to hear that you had a wonderful time. It is great to see people posting reports of their trips on the forum instead of taking all the helpful hints and tips and advice and giving nothing in return. <BR> <BR>You arrived back home just as the good weather hit Ireland with a bang - high temps and sunburn warnings for the last few days. <BR> <BR>Gláucia - CS is right about cheap B&Bs in Dublin. They are difficult to find. However in general hotels and B&Bs on the northside of the city - OÇonnell Street back towards the airport are cheaper than those on the southside - Dun Laoghaire, Ballsbridge, Merrion Sq etc. Some places to check out include the Inn style hotels of Jurys - Christchurch only and Bewleys Inn Ballsbridge (one of the best southside bargains when it comes to a hotel). Otherwise areas such as Drumcondra, Navan Road, Clontarf are cheap and should have good standard B&Bs. Swords and Malahide are both towns on the northside which are near the airport and vitually part of Dublin city now. They have several B&Bs with good bus links into the city centre. Check out www. ireland.travel.ie for further assistance. <BR> <BR>The public transport system in Dublin is not as good as that of London, Paris, Rome etc. Buses start at 6.30am and finish at 11.30am with a limited late night service at the weekends.More infor at www.cie.ie <BR> <BR>maybe <BR>Sorry to report that a lot of the places you picked will be hit by tourists - Clare is nearly as popular as Kerry and Cork with the tourist traffic. But it is a beautiful place, why not do the NorthWest area and swing through the North Midlands on your way back to Dublin - Mayo, Sligo, Donegal, Leitrim (very unpopulated in places,)Longford, Westmeath, Meath and into Dublin. This is along the border area.This is the Irish lakelands area. In Sligo stay at Temple House outside Sligo - www.templehouse.ie (i think !) Northern Ireland is worth checking out too - avoid the marching season ie June, July and August though. Hope this helps you - further info'at www.ireland.travel.com or .ie. <BR> <BR>For further details on train and bus travel chec out www.cie.ie, remember travel distances are deceptive in Ireland and the traffic situation in Dublin and its surroundings is chaotic at the best of times - gets better slightly in June when the school kids are on holidays but then there is the tourist traffic at the most popular sites. Leave plenty of time to get to the airport if you are driving through Dublin, better still get rid og the car and explore Dublin by foot and public transport. If anyone is considering visiting Newgrange I hope you have booked because all official tours of the site for the remainder of the year are booked out. You might still be able to gain access but limited and after a long delay - similar to the Vatican Museums re time waiting. In addition pre-book B&Bs and hotels in peak season May to Sept and especially around the most popular areas. Enjoy your holidays

Dear CS: <BR> We're just back from 2 weeks in Ireland (Dublin & the southwest) & would love to return next year. We want to go to Dublin (again) & then onto the north, including Belfast. We don't want to drive so wonder about getting around by public transportation. <BR>Do you have any centrally located hotels to recommend in Belfast? What would you recommend seeing in northern Ireland for those not using a car? Any suggestions would be appreciated. <BR>Susan

Susan, We visited Derry (Londonderry), toured their museum, had a pint and then headed south. The day before our flight back to London, we drove into N. Ireland from Drogheda and drove through Newry, Kilkeel and up to Newcastle and returned through the Mourne Mountains. We never got close to Belfast since 3 1/2 weeks is not nearly enough to see all we wanted to see. <BR> <BR>I imagine Cathy will be able to answer this question for you. <BR> <BR>Cathy? <BR> <BR>CS

Hi CS, It would really help me and probably others too if you could list the B&B's that you stayed at with their prices and your ratings of them. I am planning my honeymoon in Ireland in October and would love to get ideas about where to stay. Also if you had only had a week and it was your first trip there, where would you recommend going? Thanks.

Jody, if you are planning a honeymoon, look at the Hidden Ireland website, 'hidden-ireland.com'. All the houses are historic 'country houses'. I stayed at Temple House near Sligo last months, and it was the highlight of my trip! Other guests also recommended several of the other houses, so you can't go wrong if you want a romantic unforgettable honeymoon! <BR> <BR>The north west is a great alternative to the crowded South during tourist season. Plenty to do, lots of gorgeous scenery; Donegal has to be the most beautiful spot in the world (well, maybe Dingle too).

Kathleen & Jody, <BR>Delighted to hear you also enjoyed Temple House. I had a wonderful short break in Sligo and atyed with Debs and Sandy too and stayed up late listening to stories of the house. It is really good with an excellent atmosphere. If Jody is thinking of visiting the west coast and the Donegal then Temple House is an ideal location to stay in - check out Mullaghmore beach outside Sligo - some wonderful fish restaurants there including Eithne's. Also visit Yeats grave. <BR> <BR>Susan <BR>Re Northern ireland - it is really beautiful in places especially around the Derry area and the Giant's Causeway and then in the Newry are and the Mourne Mountains. However due to the troubles it is not as well developed for tourist sites as the south but that helps rather than hinders your trip. In Belfast just wander around Queen's University, see the Transport Museum, The Crown Bar ( a National Trust pub with beautiful stained glass etc) the AMerican Folk Park in the southern part of the North. <BR> <BR>Public Transport is very limiting for visitors in both North and South, slightly better in the North than the south but if you have only 2 weeks I would recommend hiring a car - the roads are definitely better in the North than the south and can cope with the speeds of the drivers. Interestingly many Northern drivers get pulled for speeding in the south which has a lower speed limit in many places. <BR> <BR>When hiring a car hire in the North so that you have a Northern registeration on the car. Avoid the North during the marching season ie when the loyalists/organse men parade through the northern celebrating the English victory of the Battle of Boyne in the 1600s, it is a very tense time and is best avoided. Marches are usually June to August or so. However if you are planning for next year then it may be OK as there are a lot of things happening on the political front at the moment. <BR> <BR>Accommodation in Belfast try either B&Bs in the Malone Road area or the Europa Hotel in central Belfats - excellent hotel with the not so nice title of beeing the most bombed hotel in the World for many years (think title in now held in the former Yugoslavia now) but the bombs have stopped so that you should be safe. <BR> <BR>For further questsions or information check out the web site of Northern Ireland tourist (there is a link from www.ireland.travel.ie) avoid goireland etc as they are very commericalised with recommendations only as a result of payment. <BR> <BR>Post if you have any more queries <BR> <BR>Cathy

Dear CS: <BR> Thanks for answering my question - now I've a response for Jody who wanted to know about B&Bs in Ireland. I can highly recommend one in southwestern Ireland: Tailor's Lodge, Killegane, Castleisland, Co. Kerry. It's near Tralee & Killarney & the Dingle peninsula. The B&B is quite comfortable, is only 6 months old, the food was marvelous, & the proprietress, Breda O'Sullivan, a dear. <BR>I believe it's something like 18-20 pounds per person. We stayed there for 4 nights. telephone (+ prefix): 066-7142170.

<BR> P.S. I meant to say thank you too to Cathy, who gave such complete information on Northern Ireland. <BR>Susan

We will be in Ireland 6/27-7/8. Three nights in Dublint. Andrew's Guest House.Any info on this b&b? Places to eat in Dublin? Three nites in Killarney:Applecroft House any info? Two nites Dingle townuinin House;Doolin:Atlantic Sunset House;two nites in Galwayrumlin View(Salthill).Any info on places to eat or info about these b&bs would be great. Car rentals and atm money exchanges? We are looking forward to our trip.

Jody, <BR> <BR>Sorry to be so late in responding. We just found out we are going to be grandparents for the first time and have been celebrating.... <BR> <BR>I will try to list all the places we stayed with their rates and my ratings. Remember, we were there in April/May before the heaviest tourist crush and were, on more than one occasion, some hosts first guests for 2000. Therefore, some of the rates I post may be slightly higher for June/July/August. Regardless, B&Bs are cheap by hotel standards and I think the most fun way to meet people and get good accurate local information. I won't give rates for each one as they were all just about the same, ie., 20-25 pounds pp sharing. Here goes: <BR> <BR>1. Dublin-Jurys Hotel-Ballsbridge. Beautiful modern hotel with 3 restaurants, concierge service and all the trimmings. In the embassy section of Dublin in an area they called Millionaires Row because of the beautiful homes surrounding this section. Great internet rate of 79 pounds (everyone says pounds--not punts) did not include breakfast or service charge. Beautiful room with the bus stop just across the street and a 6 minute trip into the center of town. <BR> <BR>2. Tramore-Cliff House B&B--loved this place. Great view of the ocean from our room and lovely house and breakfast. Pat & Hilary O'Sullivan-051-381497. <BR> <BR>3. Kinsale-Foyle House B&B-nice house and very nice family. Not in town but just a short drive outside of town. Great breakfast but slightly lumpy beds. Mrs. Joan Hurley-021-4772363 <BR> <BR>4. Killarney-Shraheen House B&B-Superior in every way. Great location--very near to town but nice and quiet. Beautiful place. Maureen Fleming-064-31286 <BR> <BR>5. Dingle-Duinin House B&B-very comfortable home-great views of the mountains and ocean. Pretty conservatory and delicious breakfast. One of our favorite hostesses: Anne Neligan- 066-9151335. <BR> <BR>6. Listowel-Ashgrove House B&B-very nice people and a lovely breakfast. Nancy O'Neill-068-21268. <BR> <BR>7. Doolin-Riverfield House B&B-extremely charming hostess and century old family home. Very close to Cliffs of Mohr as well as one of our favorite restaurants: The Doolin Cafe--wonderful.... Caitriona Garrahy-065-7074113. [email protected] <BR> <BR>8. Galway-Ocean Villa-Salthill-one of about 20 purpose built B&Bs in a row on the western edge of Galway. Beautiful home and room with nice family and breakfast. Brenda Brennan-091-529549 <BR>Note: We tried to stay at Marless House as it had been recommended to us but it was full. <BR> <BR>9. Renvyle- (Connemara) Sea Breeze B&B-A little difficult to find but definitely worth the effort. Wonderful house, exceptional view of the ocean (virtually on top of it), huge room, great breakfast and wonderful hostess. Noreen & Michael Conneely- 095-43489. [email protected] <BR> <BR>10. Killybegs-Ocean View B&B-Awesome in every way. View, room, amenities (but no TV in room), breakfast--just name it--this place is first class all the way. Helena Cunningham- 073 31576 Another favorite restaurant just a few yards down the road: Kitty Kellys- excellent food and super service. <BR> <BR>11. Dunfanghy-Four Winds B&B-moderate accommodation-very nice hostess. Mrs. Yvonne Stewart- 074-36510. Our first choice was The Whins, 07436481, but it was booked. <BR> <BR>12. Ballinamore-(Mohill) Glebe House Guest House, Co. Leitrim. Gorgeous huge room, beautiful 1840? house in the middle of beautiful grounds. The rate here was 35 punts pp sharing and was worth each and every pence. Charming hostess-Marion Maloney-353 7831086- [email protected] <BR> <BR>13. Bunratty-Bunratty Lodge. Gorgeous gorgeous. Fantastic antiques-superior in every way --difficult to get into as they are booked well in advance. Worth the effort, however. Mary Browne- 061-369363. <BR> <BR>14. Tullamore- Shephards Wood, Screggan. Probably the most 'interesting' place we stayed on the entire trip. Designed by Michael Scott, the "first real Irish" architect for the family who owned Tullamore Dew Distillery. Set in a 50 acre forest with screaming peacocks and an unusual breed of goat. Different experience. Eileen & Johann Mac Sweeney-Thieme: 0506-21499 <BR> <BR>15. Drogheda- Tullyesker Country House. A 5 star property on a hill overlooking Drogheda. Well deserved accolades from all rating agencies. The penultimate in B&Bs with the best host and hostess in all of Ireland- we cannot recommend this place highly enough. Close to Mellifont Abbey, Newgrange, Monasterboice high crosses, and Dublin Airport unless you have an early flight. Ours was at 1 pm and we had no problem making it to the airport with plenty of time to spare. I celebrated a significant birthday at Tullyesker House and my breakfast scone had a lighted candle and a rendition of Happy Birthday. Just a great experience in all ways. Cepta & Eobhain McDonnell 353 41 9830430. <BR> <BR>Jody, if you have only one week then I must say stay on the west coast. It has the most dramatic scenery and with such a short time, I would stay out of Dublin and focus just on the west. <BR> <BR>Well, that's it. I hope this helps other plan trips to Ireland... it's a great place. <BR> <BR>CS

LCB, sorry I missed your post. <BR> <BR>As far as places to eat in Dublin, I have one suggestion. We liked it so much we ate there 2 nights. <BR> <BR>Da Vincenzo, 133 Upper Leeson St, Dublin 4, 01-660 9906. I think it was about 40-45 USD and delicious. It isn't very big so don't plan on just showing up; you need to book in advance. It's near the Ballsbridge area, not in town, but worth searching out. <BR> <BR>We used AutoEurope for the car rental, made our reservations from the US and were happy with the results. They will bargain with you, too, if you tell them of other rate quotes you have received. <BR> <BR>ATMs are all over Ireland and were simple and fee free. I just wish MY bank was fee free since they charged me $1.50-2.00 per withdrawal. For that reason, I suggest you plan on withdrawing 300 Irish punts each time you use your ATM card. <BR> <BR>Hope some of this helps and feel free to email if I can help in any other way. <BR> <BR>CS

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Hi CS, <BR> <BR>Thanks for all the great information about places to stay. It is very helpful. I know that we should just focus on one area when we go but we want to see so much and we like driving around. It is one of our favorite activities. We are thinking that we will fly into Dublin, stay one night there, then dirve down past Killkenney, Cashel and Cork and stay in Kinsale one night. Then head towards Killarney either via the Blarney Castel or via the Beara Peninsula (we love the ocean - being from NS, Canada). We would stay in Killarney two nights and see the Dingle Peninsula for sure and maybe the Ring of Kerry. Then head to the Cliffs and Doolin and onto Galway city for two nights. While there we would take a day trip to see Connemara. Then head to Bunratty for the last night and fly out of Shannon. Does that sound too crazy? Like I said we like to drive.

Jody, <BR>Just remember that driving in Ireland is different to anywhere else - both the quality of the roads and the resulting distances are deceptive. It sounds like too much driving - I would suggest breaking your journey in Kilkenny rather than heading the whole way to Kinsale. Same goes for the journey from Dingle to Galway. The Dublin to Cork road is doable however the roads from Kerry to Galway is not with the stops you have planned - twisty etc. Why not stay in Adare or somewhere on route to Galway and cut down on one night in Galway. Post if you require any more help, <BR> <BR>Cathy