Jamikins and Bikerscott's Long Weekend in Rome
Mar 26th, 2016 | 08:21 AM
#22
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
jamikins and bikerscott,
Thanks so much for this little interlude. Badly needed right now! Wish I was there too. Glad to hear you enjoyed some Brunello, my favorite. Fabulous pics too. They really bring Roma to life for those of us stuck at home and work.
Buon viaggio!
PS - Jamie, my two rescue pugs are settling in well. Snoring away together on their pillow at the moment!
Thanks so much for this little interlude. Badly needed right now! Wish I was there too. Glad to hear you enjoyed some Brunello, my favorite. Fabulous pics too. They really bring Roma to life for those of us stuck at home and work.
Buon viaggio!
PS - Jamie, my two rescue pugs are settling in well. Snoring away together on their pillow at the moment!
Mar 26th, 2016 | 10:42 AM
#24
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
How nice to see another trip report in the making from the two of you. And in my absolute favorite place in the world. Have been there just a year ago and feel the itch for another visit!! Enjoy and thanks for the pictures as well.
Mar 26th, 2016 | 03:59 PM
#26
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 541
Likes: 0
Day Two
We had nothing in particular scheduled for the day so managed a fairly good lie in this morning. There are curtains in the bedroom but certainly not blackout blinds, but even with the bright sunshine coming through we slept until 10:30am. This, for us, is pretty spectacular as we normally get up not long after 4am to walk the dogs before the gym and work.
We’ve settled into a good travel routine over the last few years. We tend to only schedule one thing to do per day, and especially when we go back to places we’ve been before we don’t really stress too much about things. This morning was particularly relaxing, with coffee and photo editing on the little terrace in the sun until well after 12:00. We probably could have gotten ready faster and been out and about before noon, but there didn’t really seem to be any rush, which was nice.
Lunch was a few blocks away at my favourite pizza place in the world – Dar Poeta. I have a bunch of friends that live in New York, and some of those have been to Naples, and all are upset with my claim. I, however, have been to both New York and Naples and have had pizza in both places and still think this is better. I’m not saying that Roman pizza is better than NY or Napoli pizza, just Dar Poeta. I had the Dar Poeta, Jamie had something else that was apparently tasty. The Dar Poeta features cheese, courgette, garlic, spicy sausage, and chilli. It’s delicious.
We evidently aren't the only ones that think this is pretty good pizza. We got a seat when we arrived, but after us there was a fairly large group of people waiting for a table to eat at. It’s like this pretty much every time we see it, but trust me, it’s worth it. Part of the charm of the place is watching the waiting (or being one of the waiters). It’s very democratic – it doesn’t matter if you are a family from Florida or a local, you put your name on the list and you get a table when it comes up. The range of people standing in the alley is impressive, from white socks and sandals with shorts to blazers and pocket squares. Seriously, it’s good pizza worth going out of your way for.
After lunch we decided that a wine bar tour was in order. We crossed the river and went into the heart of darkness, otherwise known as the tourist centre of Rome. I like Piazza Navonna, but with all the people crowded around it’s a bit of a pain. We found a wine bar/restaurant that we ate in the last time we were in Rome called Il Piccolo (because it’s very small) which had a table available on the street for us. A bottle of wine and some people-watching was calling us, and we can’t resist that call.
We spent two good hours nursing a very nice bottle of Sicilian white which to be honest was a bit sweet for my taste. The table was right on the side of the pedestrian street, and you just can’t buy entertainment like watching the world wander past on a sunny day in Rome. Eventually we decided it was time to wander back over the river to our little flat to get ready to go out for dinner.
It didn’t actually take that long to get ready. Our plans for the evening were a little Osteria on the far edge of Trastevere, so black tie wasn’t called for. We had a fortifying beverage at the little beer bar downstairs (€7 for a double IPA and a very small glass of wine) before walking for 25 minutes or so to get to Osteria Francesco, farther than we’d really expected.
Despite the length of time it took to walk there, we were still 30 minutes early. We’re nothing if not punctual. We found the restaurant, confirmed that there was no one there at 7:30 and walked down the street to a locals-only wine bar for another beverage while we waited for our 8pm reservation.
The music was old-school Beastie Boys, the wine was terrible, but the crisps were fresh and the locals entertaining. I don’t know the name of it, I wouldn’t recommend it, and I probably won’t be going back, but it allowed us to pass 30 minutes in a part of Trastevere with not a lot to recommend it.
Despite arriving at 8pm, our appointed reservation time, we were still the first in the restaurant. Not only were we the first, but some of the chefs were still hanging out in the main room, rather than slaving away in the kitchen. As we were first, we had pick of tables, so we took the one closest to the windows looking into the kitchen. We did a quick count – six front of house staff and at least eight in the kitchen, working for a total of two diners until at least 10pm.
Dinner was unexpected. Often Italian food is rustic, as the famous dishes are ‘Cucina Povera’ or the dishes of the poor. If one was loaded, one wouldn’t eat endless pasta and triples, or so the theory goes. This place took Italian dishes to the next level, in a way that we haven’t experienced before, including a Michelin restaurant in Naples that we tried a few years ago.
The food was excellent. They used Italian ingredients like various pastas and ricotta, but elevated them. There was ravioli filled with butter, tortellini filled with red ale, and both pigeon and duck. It seems that a French influence on Italian traditions is a fusion that can work very well. The only downside is the amount of food that we consumed – a seven course tasting menu in Italy is a LOT heartier than some we’ve had in France.
We rolled out of the restaurant and decided to walk back to our flat. Despite a slight mis-judgement in direction (okay fine I got lost) we still made it back home in about 30 minutes, which isn’t too bad. This part of Trastevere seems to be the party place to be and be seen – loads of bars and restaurants which seemed quiet and sleepy in the afternoon were rammed at night. Fortunately our flat faces away from the piazza so we can’t hear any of it. Looking forward to sleep, but maybe a glass of wine first…
We had nothing in particular scheduled for the day so managed a fairly good lie in this morning. There are curtains in the bedroom but certainly not blackout blinds, but even with the bright sunshine coming through we slept until 10:30am. This, for us, is pretty spectacular as we normally get up not long after 4am to walk the dogs before the gym and work.
We’ve settled into a good travel routine over the last few years. We tend to only schedule one thing to do per day, and especially when we go back to places we’ve been before we don’t really stress too much about things. This morning was particularly relaxing, with coffee and photo editing on the little terrace in the sun until well after 12:00. We probably could have gotten ready faster and been out and about before noon, but there didn’t really seem to be any rush, which was nice.
Lunch was a few blocks away at my favourite pizza place in the world – Dar Poeta. I have a bunch of friends that live in New York, and some of those have been to Naples, and all are upset with my claim. I, however, have been to both New York and Naples and have had pizza in both places and still think this is better. I’m not saying that Roman pizza is better than NY or Napoli pizza, just Dar Poeta. I had the Dar Poeta, Jamie had something else that was apparently tasty. The Dar Poeta features cheese, courgette, garlic, spicy sausage, and chilli. It’s delicious.
We evidently aren't the only ones that think this is pretty good pizza. We got a seat when we arrived, but after us there was a fairly large group of people waiting for a table to eat at. It’s like this pretty much every time we see it, but trust me, it’s worth it. Part of the charm of the place is watching the waiting (or being one of the waiters). It’s very democratic – it doesn’t matter if you are a family from Florida or a local, you put your name on the list and you get a table when it comes up. The range of people standing in the alley is impressive, from white socks and sandals with shorts to blazers and pocket squares. Seriously, it’s good pizza worth going out of your way for.
After lunch we decided that a wine bar tour was in order. We crossed the river and went into the heart of darkness, otherwise known as the tourist centre of Rome. I like Piazza Navonna, but with all the people crowded around it’s a bit of a pain. We found a wine bar/restaurant that we ate in the last time we were in Rome called Il Piccolo (because it’s very small) which had a table available on the street for us. A bottle of wine and some people-watching was calling us, and we can’t resist that call.
We spent two good hours nursing a very nice bottle of Sicilian white which to be honest was a bit sweet for my taste. The table was right on the side of the pedestrian street, and you just can’t buy entertainment like watching the world wander past on a sunny day in Rome. Eventually we decided it was time to wander back over the river to our little flat to get ready to go out for dinner.
It didn’t actually take that long to get ready. Our plans for the evening were a little Osteria on the far edge of Trastevere, so black tie wasn’t called for. We had a fortifying beverage at the little beer bar downstairs (€7 for a double IPA and a very small glass of wine) before walking for 25 minutes or so to get to Osteria Francesco, farther than we’d really expected.
Despite the length of time it took to walk there, we were still 30 minutes early. We’re nothing if not punctual. We found the restaurant, confirmed that there was no one there at 7:30 and walked down the street to a locals-only wine bar for another beverage while we waited for our 8pm reservation.
The music was old-school Beastie Boys, the wine was terrible, but the crisps were fresh and the locals entertaining. I don’t know the name of it, I wouldn’t recommend it, and I probably won’t be going back, but it allowed us to pass 30 minutes in a part of Trastevere with not a lot to recommend it.
Despite arriving at 8pm, our appointed reservation time, we were still the first in the restaurant. Not only were we the first, but some of the chefs were still hanging out in the main room, rather than slaving away in the kitchen. As we were first, we had pick of tables, so we took the one closest to the windows looking into the kitchen. We did a quick count – six front of house staff and at least eight in the kitchen, working for a total of two diners until at least 10pm.
Dinner was unexpected. Often Italian food is rustic, as the famous dishes are ‘Cucina Povera’ or the dishes of the poor. If one was loaded, one wouldn’t eat endless pasta and triples, or so the theory goes. This place took Italian dishes to the next level, in a way that we haven’t experienced before, including a Michelin restaurant in Naples that we tried a few years ago.
The food was excellent. They used Italian ingredients like various pastas and ricotta, but elevated them. There was ravioli filled with butter, tortellini filled with red ale, and both pigeon and duck. It seems that a French influence on Italian traditions is a fusion that can work very well. The only downside is the amount of food that we consumed – a seven course tasting menu in Italy is a LOT heartier than some we’ve had in France.
We rolled out of the restaurant and decided to walk back to our flat. Despite a slight mis-judgement in direction (okay fine I got lost) we still made it back home in about 30 minutes, which isn’t too bad. This part of Trastevere seems to be the party place to be and be seen – loads of bars and restaurants which seemed quiet and sleepy in the afternoon were rammed at night. Fortunately our flat faces away from the piazza so we can’t hear any of it. Looking forward to sleep, but maybe a glass of wine first…
Mar 27th, 2016 | 01:40 AM
#27
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,329
Likes: 0
This is the restaurant from last night
http://www.osteriafernanda.com
Osteria Fernanda, not Francesca
http://www.osteriafernanda.com
Osteria Fernanda, not Francesca
Mar 27th, 2016 | 05:36 AM
#29
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 0
Sounds so wonderful. I am with you on sitting, sipping and watching the show around you! I am jealous that you slept until 10:30....I have a hard time sleeping at all (horrible insomnia) but I don't think I have slept that late since high school!
Mar 27th, 2016 | 10:45 AM
#31
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
Nice menu, jamikins, though I think that I might have gone for the €39 or €45 dinner; 7 courses is too much for me now, especially if i want to eat the following day [which of course I always do!]
What a day - it is lovely to have the luxury of not having to fill ones days with activity, isn't it?
looking forward to what tomorrow brings!
What a day - it is lovely to have the luxury of not having to fill ones days with activity, isn't it?
looking forward to what tomorrow brings!
