Jamikins and BikerScott Hit Rome for New Year's 2011/2012
Dec 30th, 2011, 02:18 AM
#63
yes - Roman foot strikes again.
after we'd walked round the Vatican museums for what seemed like days, we went into St. Peter's and my feet were so sore i took my shoes off and cooled my feet on the marble floor.
after that I paid more attention to where the buses and trams go, and it paid off!
after we'd walked round the Vatican museums for what seemed like days, we went into St. Peter's and my feet were so sore i took my shoes off and cooled my feet on the marble floor.
after that I paid more attention to where the buses and trams go, and it paid off!
Dec 30th, 2011, 03:14 AM
#64
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Well, your feet will survive! More wine and prosecco. I also travel with golf ball as a foot massager...it works.
Sorry about all the closed restaurants...we went through that a few years ago in Paris in August. It's still Rome and I am in Atlanta, I like your location better!
Love your report. I am a lucky girl with super thick hair and can skip the hair washing a day or two!;-) But, who would dare shoo Jamikins and Biker Scott?? Unacceptable!
I am so with you on the hunk of grilled meat! We are still savoring left over prime rib sandwiches from on Christmas dinner, so I understand and support you completely.
I also notice that you guys like to take pictures of your glasses of wine...we do the same and have some great shots of gorgeous champagne (ah, memories).
Can't wait to hear more.
Sorry about all the closed restaurants...we went through that a few years ago in Paris in August. It's still Rome and I am in Atlanta, I like your location better!
Love your report. I am a lucky girl with super thick hair and can skip the hair washing a day or two!;-) But, who would dare shoo Jamikins and Biker Scott?? Unacceptable!
I am so with you on the hunk of grilled meat! We are still savoring left over prime rib sandwiches from on Christmas dinner, so I understand and support you completely.
I also notice that you guys like to take pictures of your glasses of wine...we do the same and have some great shots of gorgeous champagne (ah, memories).
Can't wait to hear more.
Dec 30th, 2011, 04:41 AM
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Wonderful! I too am wondering about stuffing a potato with a carrot but perhaps it is "normale" in Italy?!
My dear hub and I did the same thing trying to find a favorite resto.
The photos are gorgeous. The detail in the Bernini statue near Castel is excellent.
My dear hub and I did the same thing trying to find a favorite resto.
The photos are gorgeous. The detail in the Bernini statue near Castel is excellent.
Dec 30th, 2011, 05:41 AM
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ahhhh...La Pigna
I had exactly the same situation back on my Christmas 2008 trip to Rome. I wanted to dine there, I found the piazza, I walked around, and around and around. Finally I noticed an area that looked like it might be outdoor dining, but nary a table or chair was around, simply planters outlining a square area infront of a door that was pulled shut with the security gate pulled down. And then I saw the paper sign taped to the gate...closed until after the New Year. Happily I did get there on a subsequent October 2009 visit to Rome!
I had exactly the same situation back on my Christmas 2008 trip to Rome. I wanted to dine there, I found the piazza, I walked around, and around and around. Finally I noticed an area that looked like it might be outdoor dining, but nary a table or chair was around, simply planters outlining a square area infront of a door that was pulled shut with the security gate pulled down. And then I saw the paper sign taped to the gate...closed until after the New Year. Happily I did get there on a subsequent October 2009 visit to Rome!
Dec 30th, 2011, 05:45 AM
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It is not "normale" in Italy to stuff a potato with a carrot.
I suspect that the object demonstrated was a larding needle, used to stuff fat into raw lean meat before roasting, which *is* "normale" in Italy.
http://fantes.com/meat-prep.html#lacing
For obvious economic reasons, a stallholder would not demonstrate with fat and raw lean meat but with less expensive materials, such as carrot and potato.
I suspect that the object demonstrated was a larding needle, used to stuff fat into raw lean meat before roasting, which *is* "normale" in Italy.
http://fantes.com/meat-prep.html#lacing
For obvious economic reasons, a stallholder would not demonstrate with fat and raw lean meat but with less expensive materials, such as carrot and potato.
Dec 30th, 2011, 05:55 AM
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Loving this....next best thing to being there. I look forward do my daily check in here to see what you have been up to.
Got such a chuckle about the domestic dispute. On one of our visits to that fab city witnessed a piano being moved up a tight stairway. DH and I were resting our tired feet nearby at the time and as the "discussion" got very heated we were not sure if they were just yelling instructions with the jockeying the huge piano or if it had actually escalated into a terrible argument....sure was loud and heated. Good entertainment while we rested a bit.
Sure hope you both will have a new love for Rome after this trip.
Got such a chuckle about the domestic dispute. On one of our visits to that fab city witnessed a piano being moved up a tight stairway. DH and I were resting our tired feet nearby at the time and as the "discussion" got very heated we were not sure if they were just yelling instructions with the jockeying the huge piano or if it had actually escalated into a terrible argument....sure was loud and heated. Good entertainment while we rested a bit.
Sure hope you both will have a new love for Rome after this trip.
Dec 30th, 2011, 01:20 PM
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Day Five – Bananos
Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gir...7628638151329/
It’s taken me five days of hearing and wondering to work out what people kept saying in Rome this festive season. Every time two Romans met, or parted, one or both of them said Bananos. For five days I’ve wondered what the hell this meant, and it finally came to me today. It’s not bananos. It’s the festive season. It’s also not English, it’s Italian. They’re saying Buon Anno. I don’t feel smart right now.
After the death march of yesterday, Jamie promised me we’d sleep in and have a slow day today. The people upstairs didn’t get the message, and at about 9:30 this morning someone dropped a large amount of small change on the floor above the bedroom. It was noisy. I was forced to get up.
To be fair, Jamie did let me take my time in getting ready before forcing me out the door. Our only mission for the day was to find the Colosseum and take some photos. I’m constantly amazed at how close everything is in European cities – for the most part the old towns were designed to be walkable as no one had cars – it’s only North America cities where Chevy and Ford designed the town centre.
My leg was a bit sore so we took it easy (pinched sciatic nerve – the epic walk yesterday didn’t do it any favours) and wasn’t too bad which was nice. The Colosseum isn’t actually as far from Trastevere as I’d thought and we made it in good time. Of course Jamie found a giant flight of stairs at the back of the monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, which we climbed. To be fair, the view over the ancient Roman forum was impressive from up there.
Oddly, there is a building at the back of the monument that appears as if it’s a smaller version of the colosseum, only in far less good repair, with apartments built on the top. Looking at the names of the streets around it, it’s either Foro Piscario or Teatro Marcello – somewhat bizarre but impressive either way – gives an idea of what the Coliseum would’ve looked like had it not been preserved I suppose.
The way down was less fun – through the monument itself, which was hosting an exhibition of Piet Mondrian. If you’ve seen his most famous paining, you’ve seen them all (they’re pretty much all the same thing – grids in black, with some of the squares painted yellow or blue, with the rest of them white). I know I’m not a connoisseur of modern art, but really, I could’ve done that.
It was nice to be at the Forum in the off season. While it was pretty busy, it was nothing like it is in the summer when the hordes descend and it is impossible to move. The obligatory Roman Legionaries were there (not entirely accurate, if the Simon Scarrow books are to be believed) as well as a surprising number of jingle-jangle-men selling very small tripods – a new product offering for the jingle-jangles if I’m not mistaken.
We’ve been to the Forum three times already (four times for Jamie) so we didn’t pay to go in, we simply admired it from the surrounding street level. I’m still amazed after a decade of visiting Rome that as much is still there as there is. I’m always looking around wondering what a Roman from that time would think of what’s left – how much does it look like it did, and what’s changed? I also love that my favourite books are set here – Simon Scarrow (not so much in Rome, but the Roman Legions), Steven Saylor, Conn Iggulden, and especially “Rubicon: The Triumph and Tragedy of the Roman Republic” by Tom Holland.
Jamie, as always, had done some research and found a few options for wine/lunch in the area. After a bit of exploring, we found Cavour 313 at 313 Via Cavour (cleverly named, no?) for a few bottles of volcano-themed wine (Volcaia from the Veneto, and Volcanum from Lazio) as well as regional cheeses and smoked meats. A highly enjoyable way to spend a few hours on a day in Rome in the dying days of December.
By the time we’d finished lunch, my leg was getting quite sore so we thought it would be a good idea to head back to Trastevere, with a quick stop to see St Peter in Chains – apparently Michelangelo’s final masterpiece was the Pope’s tomb which remained unfinished due to his death (not really an excuse, I think you’ll agree). If we were religious in any way, I probably would have been more moved. It’s strange that even as a non-religious person, I always feel as if I can feel the depth and history of belief in old churches, as if the emotion and love of the people that have worshiped there over the centuries has seeped into the very stones. I always like to light a candle, not so much for the purpose that they’re really intended, but to add my light to the light that has shone in these ancient buildings over the years.
On the way back to Trastevere, I caught sight of a watercolour painting amongst a bunch of paintings being sold which caught my eye. I don’t normally look too closely at the paintings on the sidewalk, but this one seemed special somehow – it was a watercolour of the stairs we were on. I’m not sure why, but I decided that I wanted to buy it. €20 later we were owners of a very nice little painting.
By the time we got home, I was completely exhausted. While we’ve been sleeping better on the hardest bed of all time, all the wine and walking is taking it out of me. Jamie spent some time talking to her family on Facebook, while I passed out on the couch. I managed to sleep (and snore) for a good hour before Jamie decided it was time for me to get up.
We had yet another recommendation for a locals’ style pizza place just a few blocks away, so we went up. We could tell it was a locals’, as at 8pm we were the only ones in there – Romans don’t eat until well after 8. We had a few starters, a bottle of wine, and then the two largest pizzas I’ve ever seen. You could feed a legion with these things. We each managed half, and I’ve never been so full (this may be an exaggeration, as the lunch the other day was much bigger and included beans, which are very filling indeed).
On the way back to the flat we stopped for the Trastevere’s best tiramisu at the Nick Nowego (now we go) bar, just around the corner. I have to admit, the tiramisu there is very good – light yet boozy, just as we like it. The glass of wine helped. As we sat inside, the loudest clap of thunder I’ve ever heard boomed above it and the skies opened. People streamed in soaking wet, the rain pattering on the cobbles outside. To be honest, there were three people. And they were more damp than soaking wet, but it was raining pretty hard, they just happened to be fairly close to the door when it started. You get my point.
By the time we’d finished the pudding and wine the rain had stopped, as had the thunder. We walked the few blocks back to the flat for a final glass of wine and a quick New Year’s skype with my parents. Tomorrow we have no plans – we’ve done everything we came to Rome to do, and I think are just going to relax. Sounds about right to me…
Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gir...7628638151329/
It’s taken me five days of hearing and wondering to work out what people kept saying in Rome this festive season. Every time two Romans met, or parted, one or both of them said Bananos. For five days I’ve wondered what the hell this meant, and it finally came to me today. It’s not bananos. It’s the festive season. It’s also not English, it’s Italian. They’re saying Buon Anno. I don’t feel smart right now.
After the death march of yesterday, Jamie promised me we’d sleep in and have a slow day today. The people upstairs didn’t get the message, and at about 9:30 this morning someone dropped a large amount of small change on the floor above the bedroom. It was noisy. I was forced to get up.
To be fair, Jamie did let me take my time in getting ready before forcing me out the door. Our only mission for the day was to find the Colosseum and take some photos. I’m constantly amazed at how close everything is in European cities – for the most part the old towns were designed to be walkable as no one had cars – it’s only North America cities where Chevy and Ford designed the town centre.
My leg was a bit sore so we took it easy (pinched sciatic nerve – the epic walk yesterday didn’t do it any favours) and wasn’t too bad which was nice. The Colosseum isn’t actually as far from Trastevere as I’d thought and we made it in good time. Of course Jamie found a giant flight of stairs at the back of the monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, which we climbed. To be fair, the view over the ancient Roman forum was impressive from up there.
Oddly, there is a building at the back of the monument that appears as if it’s a smaller version of the colosseum, only in far less good repair, with apartments built on the top. Looking at the names of the streets around it, it’s either Foro Piscario or Teatro Marcello – somewhat bizarre but impressive either way – gives an idea of what the Coliseum would’ve looked like had it not been preserved I suppose.
The way down was less fun – through the monument itself, which was hosting an exhibition of Piet Mondrian. If you’ve seen his most famous paining, you’ve seen them all (they’re pretty much all the same thing – grids in black, with some of the squares painted yellow or blue, with the rest of them white). I know I’m not a connoisseur of modern art, but really, I could’ve done that.
It was nice to be at the Forum in the off season. While it was pretty busy, it was nothing like it is in the summer when the hordes descend and it is impossible to move. The obligatory Roman Legionaries were there (not entirely accurate, if the Simon Scarrow books are to be believed) as well as a surprising number of jingle-jangle-men selling very small tripods – a new product offering for the jingle-jangles if I’m not mistaken.
We’ve been to the Forum three times already (four times for Jamie) so we didn’t pay to go in, we simply admired it from the surrounding street level. I’m still amazed after a decade of visiting Rome that as much is still there as there is. I’m always looking around wondering what a Roman from that time would think of what’s left – how much does it look like it did, and what’s changed? I also love that my favourite books are set here – Simon Scarrow (not so much in Rome, but the Roman Legions), Steven Saylor, Conn Iggulden, and especially “Rubicon: The Triumph and Tragedy of the Roman Republic” by Tom Holland.
Jamie, as always, had done some research and found a few options for wine/lunch in the area. After a bit of exploring, we found Cavour 313 at 313 Via Cavour (cleverly named, no?) for a few bottles of volcano-themed wine (Volcaia from the Veneto, and Volcanum from Lazio) as well as regional cheeses and smoked meats. A highly enjoyable way to spend a few hours on a day in Rome in the dying days of December.
By the time we’d finished lunch, my leg was getting quite sore so we thought it would be a good idea to head back to Trastevere, with a quick stop to see St Peter in Chains – apparently Michelangelo’s final masterpiece was the Pope’s tomb which remained unfinished due to his death (not really an excuse, I think you’ll agree). If we were religious in any way, I probably would have been more moved. It’s strange that even as a non-religious person, I always feel as if I can feel the depth and history of belief in old churches, as if the emotion and love of the people that have worshiped there over the centuries has seeped into the very stones. I always like to light a candle, not so much for the purpose that they’re really intended, but to add my light to the light that has shone in these ancient buildings over the years.
On the way back to Trastevere, I caught sight of a watercolour painting amongst a bunch of paintings being sold which caught my eye. I don’t normally look too closely at the paintings on the sidewalk, but this one seemed special somehow – it was a watercolour of the stairs we were on. I’m not sure why, but I decided that I wanted to buy it. €20 later we were owners of a very nice little painting.
By the time we got home, I was completely exhausted. While we’ve been sleeping better on the hardest bed of all time, all the wine and walking is taking it out of me. Jamie spent some time talking to her family on Facebook, while I passed out on the couch. I managed to sleep (and snore) for a good hour before Jamie decided it was time for me to get up.
We had yet another recommendation for a locals’ style pizza place just a few blocks away, so we went up. We could tell it was a locals’, as at 8pm we were the only ones in there – Romans don’t eat until well after 8. We had a few starters, a bottle of wine, and then the two largest pizzas I’ve ever seen. You could feed a legion with these things. We each managed half, and I’ve never been so full (this may be an exaggeration, as the lunch the other day was much bigger and included beans, which are very filling indeed).
On the way back to the flat we stopped for the Trastevere’s best tiramisu at the Nick Nowego (now we go) bar, just around the corner. I have to admit, the tiramisu there is very good – light yet boozy, just as we like it. The glass of wine helped. As we sat inside, the loudest clap of thunder I’ve ever heard boomed above it and the skies opened. People streamed in soaking wet, the rain pattering on the cobbles outside. To be honest, there were three people. And they were more damp than soaking wet, but it was raining pretty hard, they just happened to be fairly close to the door when it started. You get my point.
By the time we’d finished the pudding and wine the rain had stopped, as had the thunder. We walked the few blocks back to the flat for a final glass of wine and a quick New Year’s skype with my parents. Tomorrow we have no plans – we’ve done everything we came to Rome to do, and I think are just going to relax. Sounds about right to me…
Dec 31st, 2011, 04:57 AM
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You are hilarious! I am the Jamie here (planner, researcher) but am lucky that my husband is used to getting up so I don't have to bargain too much with him to get up and get moving while we are on vacation. He will want to check out the tiramisu, an all time favorite of his!
We are always the first in restaurants in Europe. I think I have done an admirable job at undoing years of eating at 5:30pm while growing up by hanging on until the very "late" hour of 7:00 or 7:30pm, until I get to Europe. I note that if we are not alone in the restaurant, we are joined by other Americans.
I also find that I am drawn to light a candle in many churches and not at all for religious reasons, as I am not at all religious. I love your explanation for why and am planning on ripping it off!
Take care of that leg...more wine.
We are always the first in restaurants in Europe. I think I have done an admirable job at undoing years of eating at 5:30pm while growing up by hanging on until the very "late" hour of 7:00 or 7:30pm, until I get to Europe. I note that if we are not alone in the restaurant, we are joined by other Americans.
I also find that I am drawn to light a candle in many churches and not at all for religious reasons, as I am not at all religious. I love your explanation for why and am planning on ripping it off!
Take care of that leg...more wine.
Dec 31st, 2011, 09:14 AM
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Day Six – Wine, anyone? Also, Work Ethic in the Jingle-Jangle World.
We seem to have finally gotten used to the hardest bed in the world as we both slept fairly well last night. We also discovered that turning on the heat at night means we don’t freeze in our sleep, which is a positive step forward. Jamie let me sleep in to the unheard of hour of 10:00am, no one was more surprised than me.
We had a slow start to the day as we had absolutely no plans, other than buying some wine for tomorrow, as we suspect that all the shops in all of Rome will be closed on New Year’s Day tomorrow, which isn’t all that time consuming. First mission of the day, after a bit of cold pizza and coffee was a walk to the apparent the foodie capital of Rome – Testaccio. According to Wiki, it’s an area that is currently gentrifying. It’s not that it’s not nice, but it’s fairly clear why there aren’t more tourists around.
We had a quick look through the covered market, which wasn’t as big or as nice as the one we went to the other day near the Vatican, and then tried to find a place for lunch. Of the three recommendations we had for the area, only one was actually open, and it was completely booked up so no spare seats for us.
We walked around for a while longer before deciding to call it quits and head back to the “posh” Trastevere – as there are more tourists there, better chances of finding a place open for lunch. We ended up at Ristorante Alle Fratte di Trastevere on Via delle Fratte di Trastevere (clever name I thought) where we gorged ourselves.
Lunch was surprisingly excellent – a primi piatti of cheese ravioli in a creamy mushroom and sausage sauce was amazing, followed by veal for Jamie and grilled lamb chops for me. The pasta was the real star of the show, although the rest was nice, and it was clearly a family run place with a lot of heart.
After lunch we were at a bit of a loss, and after much wandering around the streets of Trastevere and a gelato later, we found an expensive seat in the piazza just in front of Santa Maria de Trastevere for a few bottles of quite expensive house wine (but worth it for the heater just beside us and the fantastic view of the piazza in front of us).
We managed to spend more than three hours nursing two bottles of wine, enjoying the show of life played out in front of us. Of particular interest was the extraordinarily drunk and apparently homeless woman who stumbled into the square and was quickly rounded up by the very suavely dressed guy who guided her to the side of the square for a long conversation before leading her off. They appeared to be about the same age – school hood friends who’s lives had gone in separate directions?
It was also entertaining watching the various jingle-jangle men ply their trades. All day, the Egytpian Statue guy did his thing to varying degrees of success – not sure why anyone would want to pay to take their picture with a guy covered in gold lame fabric and an Egyptian mask, but enough did that we got to wondering how much he made in a day…
The other guy that caught our eye was a seller of flashing things – sunglasses with LED lights, various flashing ear headbands, and elastic launched helicopter things featuring yet more LED lights. I can tell you this guy worked for his sales – not pushy or aggressive, but entertaining and enthusiastic. He was the first, and I think based on his success more followed as the sun set. They weren’t as entertaining.
With three hours sitting in a piazza in Rome drinking wine and watching the world walk past, we had some time to reflect over the year. It’s been a very good one, with major successes at work and in our personal lives for both of us. We’re very much looking forward to the New Year, and can’t think of a better way to spend the last hours of the old year sitting in a seat in one of our favourite cites, watching the sky turn from brilliant bright blue to deep starry blue, the lights shining on the ancient buildings, the wine chilling in a bucket next to us. We have dinner planned for later and are now just relaxing in our lovely flat having a pre-dinner glass of wine - heaven.
Bikerscott and Jamikins would like, from the bottom of our hearts to the top of our wine glasses, to wish everyone reading this (and even those not) a very happy and prosperous (not just financially, but personally as well) New Year. As the Romans say – “Bananos!”
We seem to have finally gotten used to the hardest bed in the world as we both slept fairly well last night. We also discovered that turning on the heat at night means we don’t freeze in our sleep, which is a positive step forward. Jamie let me sleep in to the unheard of hour of 10:00am, no one was more surprised than me.
We had a slow start to the day as we had absolutely no plans, other than buying some wine for tomorrow, as we suspect that all the shops in all of Rome will be closed on New Year’s Day tomorrow, which isn’t all that time consuming. First mission of the day, after a bit of cold pizza and coffee was a walk to the apparent the foodie capital of Rome – Testaccio. According to Wiki, it’s an area that is currently gentrifying. It’s not that it’s not nice, but it’s fairly clear why there aren’t more tourists around.
We had a quick look through the covered market, which wasn’t as big or as nice as the one we went to the other day near the Vatican, and then tried to find a place for lunch. Of the three recommendations we had for the area, only one was actually open, and it was completely booked up so no spare seats for us.
We walked around for a while longer before deciding to call it quits and head back to the “posh” Trastevere – as there are more tourists there, better chances of finding a place open for lunch. We ended up at Ristorante Alle Fratte di Trastevere on Via delle Fratte di Trastevere (clever name I thought) where we gorged ourselves.
Lunch was surprisingly excellent – a primi piatti of cheese ravioli in a creamy mushroom and sausage sauce was amazing, followed by veal for Jamie and grilled lamb chops for me. The pasta was the real star of the show, although the rest was nice, and it was clearly a family run place with a lot of heart.
After lunch we were at a bit of a loss, and after much wandering around the streets of Trastevere and a gelato later, we found an expensive seat in the piazza just in front of Santa Maria de Trastevere for a few bottles of quite expensive house wine (but worth it for the heater just beside us and the fantastic view of the piazza in front of us).
We managed to spend more than three hours nursing two bottles of wine, enjoying the show of life played out in front of us. Of particular interest was the extraordinarily drunk and apparently homeless woman who stumbled into the square and was quickly rounded up by the very suavely dressed guy who guided her to the side of the square for a long conversation before leading her off. They appeared to be about the same age – school hood friends who’s lives had gone in separate directions?
It was also entertaining watching the various jingle-jangle men ply their trades. All day, the Egytpian Statue guy did his thing to varying degrees of success – not sure why anyone would want to pay to take their picture with a guy covered in gold lame fabric and an Egyptian mask, but enough did that we got to wondering how much he made in a day…
The other guy that caught our eye was a seller of flashing things – sunglasses with LED lights, various flashing ear headbands, and elastic launched helicopter things featuring yet more LED lights. I can tell you this guy worked for his sales – not pushy or aggressive, but entertaining and enthusiastic. He was the first, and I think based on his success more followed as the sun set. They weren’t as entertaining.
With three hours sitting in a piazza in Rome drinking wine and watching the world walk past, we had some time to reflect over the year. It’s been a very good one, with major successes at work and in our personal lives for both of us. We’re very much looking forward to the New Year, and can’t think of a better way to spend the last hours of the old year sitting in a seat in one of our favourite cites, watching the sky turn from brilliant bright blue to deep starry blue, the lights shining on the ancient buildings, the wine chilling in a bucket next to us. We have dinner planned for later and are now just relaxing in our lovely flat having a pre-dinner glass of wine - heaven.
Bikerscott and Jamikins would like, from the bottom of our hearts to the top of our wine glasses, to wish everyone reading this (and even those not) a very happy and prosperous (not just financially, but personally as well) New Year. As the Romans say – “Bananos!”
Dec 31st, 2011, 09:22 AM
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Biker and Jamie: thanks for such a fun, real time report. I just read it all today, thanks to Denisea pointing it out to me, and now I will keep up with you til the end.
Even if you are just going to "relax" today, New Year's Eve, isn't it more fun to do it in Rome?
A hopeful, healthy 2012 to you both, and blessings on all Fodorites.
Even if you are just going to "relax" today, New Year's Eve, isn't it more fun to do it in Rome?
A hopeful, healthy 2012 to you both, and blessings on all Fodorites.
Dec 31st, 2011, 12:12 PM
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Buon anno to you both from warm, sunny Sydney! Thank you so much for this report. Apart from the hard bed it sounds has though you have had a great week in Rome. I love that you took time to sit and soak up the atmosphere and not spend the entire week racing from one tourist highlight to another. Cathie
