Jamikins and Bikerscott go Francing - A Brittany Trip Report
Jun 1st, 2008, 11:57 PM
#23
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Thanks for the comments 
Leely...yes, we are soo fortunate! Its pretty much the reason we moved to London! Addicted to European travel!
Celiaane...yup, Bikerscott is much more adventurous than me, and from time to time it does make for some amusement on my end. He did make quite a dent in it though!
irishface...I loved the crooked houses everywhere as well! You just dont get that in Vancouver, where we are from!
Leely...yes, we are soo fortunate! Its pretty much the reason we moved to London! Addicted to European travel!
Celiaane...yup, Bikerscott is much more adventurous than me, and from time to time it does make for some amusement on my end. He did make quite a dent in it though!
irishface...I loved the crooked houses everywhere as well! You just dont get that in Vancouver, where we are from!
Jun 2nd, 2008, 05:05 AM
#24
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Thursday, 22 May 2008
Today turned out to be a very interesting day. One of the reasons we chose this B&B is to take cooking lessons with Christian Caille, who is a Cordon Bleu trained chef. We started with another basic breakfast of bread and coffee before piling into Christian’s VW West Falia and heading into the unknown. We picked up picnic supplies at a Champion, and we were ready to go pick mussels!
We got on well with Christian, who very much reminded us of a French version of Jamie’s dad – a little disorganized with white hair and beard. We eventually made it to Pointe Minard on the Emerald Coast and managed to find a rather steep path down the cliff to the rocks below. We spent an hour or so prying mussels and oysters off the rocks (Jamie eating more oysters than collecting), managing to fill a fairly large basket.
We climbed back up to the top and enjoyed our picnic lunch of bread, cheese, pate, and carrot salad before heading back to St Caradec for dinner and our cooking lesson.
I started by dicing shallots and chopping parsley and peeling boiled potatoes with Christian while Jamie got a tour of the garden from Christiana. We ate the oysters from the shell as a first course, and then got stuck into a demonstration on cooking mussels which actually turned out to be fairly easy. We ate those with the potatoes that we had fried up and then moved on to the salad and cheese, finally followed by a demonstration of Crepes Suzettes. The whole night we spent chatting with Christian and Christiana. We ended the evening with a magical glass of 40 year old calvados – it tasted like heaven in a glass – best beverage I’ve ever had.
Tomorrow is a drive along the Pink Granite Coast then another meal with Christian and Christiana.
Pictures for Day 6:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie....r/BrittanyDay6
Today turned out to be a very interesting day. One of the reasons we chose this B&B is to take cooking lessons with Christian Caille, who is a Cordon Bleu trained chef. We started with another basic breakfast of bread and coffee before piling into Christian’s VW West Falia and heading into the unknown. We picked up picnic supplies at a Champion, and we were ready to go pick mussels!
We got on well with Christian, who very much reminded us of a French version of Jamie’s dad – a little disorganized with white hair and beard. We eventually made it to Pointe Minard on the Emerald Coast and managed to find a rather steep path down the cliff to the rocks below. We spent an hour or so prying mussels and oysters off the rocks (Jamie eating more oysters than collecting), managing to fill a fairly large basket.
We climbed back up to the top and enjoyed our picnic lunch of bread, cheese, pate, and carrot salad before heading back to St Caradec for dinner and our cooking lesson.
I started by dicing shallots and chopping parsley and peeling boiled potatoes with Christian while Jamie got a tour of the garden from Christiana. We ate the oysters from the shell as a first course, and then got stuck into a demonstration on cooking mussels which actually turned out to be fairly easy. We ate those with the potatoes that we had fried up and then moved on to the salad and cheese, finally followed by a demonstration of Crepes Suzettes. The whole night we spent chatting with Christian and Christiana. We ended the evening with a magical glass of 40 year old calvados – it tasted like heaven in a glass – best beverage I’ve ever had.
Tomorrow is a drive along the Pink Granite Coast then another meal with Christian and Christiana.
Pictures for Day 6:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie....r/BrittanyDay6
Jun 3rd, 2008, 05:05 AM
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Friday, 23 May 2008
We had breakfast on our own this morning as the other guests had left very early. We spent the day driving around the Pink Granite Coast – the north-westish coast of Brittany where the rocks on shore are all huge pink granite masses. It looks like a prehistoric world!
We spent most of the day walking through the amazing cliffs and driving along the coast, stopping for lunch at a creperie in Ploumanach, a tiny fishing village. We were both tired from the late dinner the night before so we headed back to the B&B for a nap before dinner. Jamie managed to fall asleep in the car on the way. We both crashed and then headed down to dinner with Christiana and Christian.
Like last night, the meal was fantastic, featuring Guinea fowl with potatoes and some odd vegetable that tasted like oysters. We had a fabulous time and Christian even shared some of his prized pear brandy with us. A huge honour as it’s his favourite drink and only available in Switzerland. I think we’ve made some new friends.
Tomorrow it is off to Vannes!
Pictures from Day 7:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie.a.shearer/Brittany7
We had breakfast on our own this morning as the other guests had left very early. We spent the day driving around the Pink Granite Coast – the north-westish coast of Brittany where the rocks on shore are all huge pink granite masses. It looks like a prehistoric world!
We spent most of the day walking through the amazing cliffs and driving along the coast, stopping for lunch at a creperie in Ploumanach, a tiny fishing village. We were both tired from the late dinner the night before so we headed back to the B&B for a nap before dinner. Jamie managed to fall asleep in the car on the way. We both crashed and then headed down to dinner with Christiana and Christian.
Like last night, the meal was fantastic, featuring Guinea fowl with potatoes and some odd vegetable that tasted like oysters. We had a fabulous time and Christian even shared some of his prized pear brandy with us. A huge honour as it’s his favourite drink and only available in Switzerland. I think we’ve made some new friends.
Tomorrow it is off to Vannes!
Pictures from Day 7:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie.a.shearer/Brittany7
Jun 3rd, 2008, 07:17 AM
#26
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Hopefully people are still reading and still interested...
Saturday, 24 May 2008
We slept in a bit before heading downstairs for breakfast. We discovered that they don’t take credit cards so we had to make an emergency trip to Loudeac to grab some cash…in doing so we also discovered our cash withdrawal limit on our cards. Luckily we got enough and headed back to the B&B.
After saying goodbye to Christiana and Christian, we drove to Bignan to have lunch at Auberge La Chouanniere which had been highly recommended by Christian – evidently he used to send trainee chefs there. As you would expect, the food was fantastic (including the foie gras as all good meals should include). We highly recommend a stop here if you are heading south.
Next was on to Vannes through the drizzle. We’d been very lucky with the weather so far. As we drove it kept getting worse and worse. We got to Vannes and quickly discovered that the map I’d printed would’ve been better if it had shown the way through town centre. Nevertheless, we found our B&B – Villa Catherine http://www.villa-catherine.fr/ thanks to some fantastic navigation by Jamie.
After getting settled in our room we decided to walk to town for dinner. The 20 min walk seemed like a better idea before we got absolutely soaked. We walked for around for a while, Jamie trying to take photos while I held the umbrella for her. As it was raining so hard, we were forced to stop at several pubs along the way, including an odd Irish place called Paddy O’Dowd’s where we had a few pints of Guinness.
At 7:30pm we wandered up the street to the Green Guide recommended La Table des Gourmets for a fantastic 6 course tasting menu with wine pairings. The entertainment for the evening included watching an old guy wine and dine a MUCH younger woman – the debate was if she was a woman of negotiable affection or not…
We trudged back to Villa Catherine and watched the finale of Eurovision 2008 (some European singing competition) before passing out with exhaustion.
Pictures from Day 8:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie....r/BrittanyDay8
Saturday, 24 May 2008
We slept in a bit before heading downstairs for breakfast. We discovered that they don’t take credit cards so we had to make an emergency trip to Loudeac to grab some cash…in doing so we also discovered our cash withdrawal limit on our cards. Luckily we got enough and headed back to the B&B.
After saying goodbye to Christiana and Christian, we drove to Bignan to have lunch at Auberge La Chouanniere which had been highly recommended by Christian – evidently he used to send trainee chefs there. As you would expect, the food was fantastic (including the foie gras as all good meals should include). We highly recommend a stop here if you are heading south.
Next was on to Vannes through the drizzle. We’d been very lucky with the weather so far. As we drove it kept getting worse and worse. We got to Vannes and quickly discovered that the map I’d printed would’ve been better if it had shown the way through town centre. Nevertheless, we found our B&B – Villa Catherine http://www.villa-catherine.fr/ thanks to some fantastic navigation by Jamie.
After getting settled in our room we decided to walk to town for dinner. The 20 min walk seemed like a better idea before we got absolutely soaked. We walked for around for a while, Jamie trying to take photos while I held the umbrella for her. As it was raining so hard, we were forced to stop at several pubs along the way, including an odd Irish place called Paddy O’Dowd’s where we had a few pints of Guinness.
At 7:30pm we wandered up the street to the Green Guide recommended La Table des Gourmets for a fantastic 6 course tasting menu with wine pairings. The entertainment for the evening included watching an old guy wine and dine a MUCH younger woman – the debate was if she was a woman of negotiable affection or not…
We trudged back to Villa Catherine and watched the finale of Eurovision 2008 (some European singing competition) before passing out with exhaustion.
Pictures from Day 8:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie....r/BrittanyDay8
Jun 3rd, 2008, 10:19 AM
#29
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Gosh, Bikerscott, you're really brave (or foolhardy) to try andouillete. It is the most noxious food I've ever encountered. If you can find it on the web (not on Fodors) Burke and Wells a traveling duo had a website in which they detailed their experience with it entitled Excremental Encounter. I think it was on Chowhound as well. It is possibly the funniest bit of food writing I've ever seen. Laughed until I cried. It's worth looking for and I'm sure you'll be able to relate.
Jun 3rd, 2008, 10:51 AM
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kerouac wrote: "Andouillette is wonderful."
To some, including me. But andoille is a whole 'nother matter; hate it -- well, okay, don't quite hate it, but don't like it; give me anything else on the menu.
To some, including me. But andoille is a whole 'nother matter; hate it -- well, okay, don't quite hate it, but don't like it; give me anything else on the menu.
Jun 3rd, 2008, 10:54 AM
#32
That's probably because andouille is eaten cold and you have to peel off that black skin. Still good, though.
If Jamikins and Bikerscott have discovered this delightful item yet, I'm sure they will put it on their list for the next trip.
If Jamikins and Bikerscott have discovered this delightful item yet, I'm sure they will put it on their list for the next trip.
Jun 4th, 2008, 12:08 AM
#34
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Kerouac...We (meaning Bikerscott) will have to add it to his ever growing list of foods to try in France.
I'm pretty adventurous: I eat escargot, fois gras etc...but just cant do intestines. And i dont eat hot dogs or sausages either My grade 3 teacher showed us what is in them and I havent touched them since!
I do enjoy watching Scott struggle through though! He will try anything!
I'm pretty adventurous: I eat escargot, fois gras etc...but just cant do intestines. And i dont eat hot dogs or sausages either
My grade 3 teacher showed us what is in them and I havent touched them since! I do enjoy watching Scott struggle through though! He will try anything!
Jun 4th, 2008, 03:58 AM
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Sunday, 25 May 2008
We woke up and went downstairs for a very odd breakfast. Cold crepes with no forks, just a knife. Messy, but good. We drove back into town to take a few photos while the light was good before starting out on our driving tour of the Cote Sauvage (Savage Coast). Our first stop was Pointe D’Arradon where we did a quick walk around the harbour to admire the boats and the view. From here you get a great view of the Golfe du Morbihan. Next was a very quick stop at Lamour-Baden, hoping to take the boat over to one of the island to see one the prehistoric megaliths. But it was closed; instead we drove to Auray to look around and for some lunch.
Auray is a quant little port town on the river with fantastic half-timbered buildings and lots of very touristy restaurants. We had a tasty lunch at one of them – mussels and fries for me and tuna and durade for Jamie. I was forced to have profiteroles for dessert – I hate it when that happens!
After lunch we took a quick walk around the Menhirs at Carnac, and then took a drive to the Savage Coast on the south side of Brittany. It’s much more rugged here than the north coast, and we spent some time sitting on the rocks watching the tide come in and crash against the rocks.
By this point it was getting late so we got back into Isabelle and drove back to Vannes for dinner. It being Sunday, pretty much everything was closed, but we found a nice restaurant to eat at just near the cathedral. We started with a baby scallop dish for me and oysters for Jamie. Next were more scallops for me and curried monkfish for Jamie, followed by cheese and dessert. An excellent way to end our last full day of Francing.
Pictures from Day 9:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie....r/BrittanyDay9
We woke up and went downstairs for a very odd breakfast. Cold crepes with no forks, just a knife. Messy, but good. We drove back into town to take a few photos while the light was good before starting out on our driving tour of the Cote Sauvage (Savage Coast). Our first stop was Pointe D’Arradon where we did a quick walk around the harbour to admire the boats and the view. From here you get a great view of the Golfe du Morbihan. Next was a very quick stop at Lamour-Baden, hoping to take the boat over to one of the island to see one the prehistoric megaliths. But it was closed; instead we drove to Auray to look around and for some lunch.
Auray is a quant little port town on the river with fantastic half-timbered buildings and lots of very touristy restaurants. We had a tasty lunch at one of them – mussels and fries for me and tuna and durade for Jamie. I was forced to have profiteroles for dessert – I hate it when that happens!
After lunch we took a quick walk around the Menhirs at Carnac, and then took a drive to the Savage Coast on the south side of Brittany. It’s much more rugged here than the north coast, and we spent some time sitting on the rocks watching the tide come in and crash against the rocks.
By this point it was getting late so we got back into Isabelle and drove back to Vannes for dinner. It being Sunday, pretty much everything was closed, but we found a nice restaurant to eat at just near the cathedral. We started with a baby scallop dish for me and oysters for Jamie. Next were more scallops for me and curried monkfish for Jamie, followed by cheese and dessert. An excellent way to end our last full day of Francing.
Pictures from Day 9:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie....r/BrittanyDay9
Jun 4th, 2008, 04:53 AM
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I have to say that the andouillette tasted pretty good, it was more the smell of it that turned me off. I'm not shy about eating the less attractive bits of animals (have had tripe in Rome, brains in San Francisco, bone marrow in Sonoma County, blood sausage in Limerick, heart in high school, countless livers etc) and as long as it doesn't have an odour problem, I'm game to give the andouille a go.
Glad everyone is enjoying the trip report
Glad everyone is enjoying the trip report
Jun 4th, 2008, 05:31 AM
#37
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Scott and Jamie, I just discovered your great report and wonderful photos and enjoyed them all at one sitting. Thanks for sharing!
My daughter and I visited Brittany and Normandy very briefly one summer, just to see Mont St Michel. Since you're based in Britain at the moment, have you had a chance to visit St. Michael's Mount near Penzanze? If not, be sure to add it to your list.
My daughter and I visited Brittany and Normandy very briefly one summer, just to see Mont St Michel. Since you're based in Britain at the moment, have you had a chance to visit St. Michael's Mount near Penzanze? If not, be sure to add it to your list.
Jun 4th, 2008, 06:25 AM
#38
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Thanks Moolyn!
I hadnt heard about that in Penzance...will add it to the ever growing list of places to go! Can you believe I have a spreadsheet with vacation ideas for the next 5 years???
I hadnt heard about that in Penzance...will add it to the ever growing list of places to go! Can you believe I have a spreadsheet with vacation ideas for the next 5 years???
Jun 4th, 2008, 06:32 AM
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Monday, 26 May 2008
Today was another travel day. We headed back up to Dinard to catch our flight home in the afternoon. We stopped in the touristy village of Rochefort-en-Terre, and then again in Dinan for lunch by the river. We got to Dinard with some time to spare so we sat on the beach and had one last drink overlooking the beach. Flight home was uneventful but full as it was the evening of the bank holiday Monday. We had a fantastic time in Brittany, and while they don’t make a lot of cheese in this region, the seafood was amazing. It was different than other regions of France that we have visited, and we loved it too!
Pictures from Day 10:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie..../BrittanyDay10
Today was another travel day. We headed back up to Dinard to catch our flight home in the afternoon. We stopped in the touristy village of Rochefort-en-Terre, and then again in Dinan for lunch by the river. We got to Dinard with some time to spare so we sat on the beach and had one last drink overlooking the beach. Flight home was uneventful but full as it was the evening of the bank holiday Monday. We had a fantastic time in Brittany, and while they don’t make a lot of cheese in this region, the seafood was amazing. It was different than other regions of France that we have visited, and we loved it too!
Pictures from Day 10:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/jamie..../BrittanyDay10
