It's hot, but it's Europe: travels from Amsterdam to Paris, tiptoeing through the heat wave
Aug 13th, 2006, 02:30 PM
#21
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Am enjoying as am planning a fall 2008 trip to the same area.
Do you have a website for the b&b in Honfleur?
After watching a Rick Steves TV show where they went through the museum at Caen, I am having second thoughts.
I'm very well read on the D-Day beaches and do plan to spend 2 days in the area. However, I had thought a museum might have German panzers, American tanks, maybe even a glider? Was it all just walls of pictures?
Do you have a website for the b&b in Honfleur?
After watching a Rick Steves TV show where they went through the museum at Caen, I am having second thoughts.
I'm very well read on the D-Day beaches and do plan to spend 2 days in the area. However, I had thought a museum might have German panzers, American tanks, maybe even a glider? Was it all just walls of pictures?
Aug 14th, 2006, 01:22 AM
#25
Original Poster
Thanks, everyone, for your kind words!
Job, I'll post shortly about the Remparts B&B.
hopingtotravel,
I tend to agree with Wren. Dh felt that he had enough knowledge of the WWII lore and was somewhat bored. He found it to be an overload of information. I appreciated it, but could've passed on it easily. What we did find valuable, however, was the footage of the invasion, which informed our visit the next day.
I'm on a dialup right now, and will see if I can post some additional writing.
Paule
Job, I'll post shortly about the Remparts B&B.
hopingtotravel,
I tend to agree with Wren. Dh felt that he had enough knowledge of the WWII lore and was somewhat bored. He found it to be an overload of information. I appreciated it, but could've passed on it easily. What we did find valuable, however, was the footage of the invasion, which informed our visit the next day.
I'm on a dialup right now, and will see if I can post some additional writing.
Paule
Aug 14th, 2006, 01:27 AM
#26
Original Poster
Bayeux
Arriving in Bayeux is easy, and we found the B&B pretty quickly. We are staying in Les Remparts B&B, located in the Place Charles De Gaulle. It is a large park and square. Not an especially inviting square, but there is no problem parking and it feels perfectly safe. Bayeux is a small city, but the center of the old town is very small. We are all of a few blocks away from the main street, but it's very quiet by our B&B.
Les Remparts B&B is built into the ramparts of the city, and is an odd, old building with a very eclectic style. The room is the largest room (two rooms, really) of all the places we've stayed, with a fussy old-fashioned style: painted beams, wallpaper, bed with curtain and an odd assortment of towels. No shampoo here, either, but I'm getting used to the idea that not everyone provides shampoo. The oddest thing is the light sensor in the bathroom, which doesn't turn off right away. This is the least expensive stay of our trip at 52 euos/night.
The host is polite, but distant, and makes himself scarce as soon as we arrived. He runs a family ciderie as well, and has a store and cellar as well as the B&B. Petit dejeuner, served in the store before it opens, was quite good, with good coffee, and a nice selection of bread and pastry.
That evening, we wash our clothes in the lavarie a few blocks away, but it is a bit funky. The washers and dryers barely work. We wash our clothes in the only washer that appears to work, and then put our clothes in the dryer for the right amount of time. We come back expecting to fold ourclothes, but they're barely dry. Okay, well, eventually it gets done, and that's it for a regular wash-stop for the trip. We've taken several quick dry items of clothes, which we wash out regularly, and this works very well. In fact, it keeps our luggage even lighter, because I've convinced Dh to bring less cotton t-shirts and more wash&wear shirts from the fancy sports/camping shop in town.
Dinner that first night is at the Assiette Normande, and service is slow, slow, slow. Too many customers, and the young staff don't seem to handle the crowd all that well. It took over a half hour before we got our order taken, and about the same time for the first course. The rest of the meal proceeded at the same pace. Food was nothing remarkable, and service was poor.
At last, we are off to meet our guide for the half-day tour of the Normandy beaches and sights. A few weeks before the trip, I decided to book a tour. Dh and I are usually do-it-your-selfers, but I felt that this was one time when I wanted to have someone making the sights come alive. And I can't speak highly enough about Roel Klinkhamer and Victory Tours. It was a great tour, and at 5 1/2 hours, considerably longer than the half-day we anticipated. We visited Arromanches, Port-En-Bessin-Omaha Beach-The American War Cemetery and Pointe du Hoc, and a lot of spots along the way were given commentary. It was just ourselves and another couple who, like Roel, were Dutch. This was almost like having a private tour. Roel gave us an excellent tour, his knowledge and passion make the experience of the war very meaningful to both of us. The day is stellar-perfectly blue skies, low humidity, and it is an odd juxtaposition of perfect weather with content, and it is a powerful experience. We were both so glad to see footage of the invasion the day before, because it really helped us to imagine 60+ years earlier. Another benefit of having the tour is that we're both able to relax and enjoy traveling around the countryside.
We come back in the mid-afternoon, stop for a quick crepe and then view the Bayeux tapestry. We arrive around 4pm, and it is not crowded at all.
The tapestry is nearly a thousand years old and tells the story of William the Conquerer and the Norman conquest. Today is the day of invasions! The embroidery was very exciting to see, and is in remarkable condition. The audio guide moves us through the actual embroidery very quickly, to keep the viewer moving, but after it is over, we go back and try to absorb a little bit more of what we are looking at. Before entering the tapestry, there is a movie that tells the story of the tapesty; there is also a display of reproductions of the panels with commentary. We bypass the reproduction of the panels and go directly to the real thing.
Dinner is at Le Pommier, very pleasant and relaxed, and within our usual budget (21 euros/person). The food is well-prepared in a traditional manner, not adventurous, but is very satisfying. The one place we did not try, but recommend is the Petit Bistro, with an excellent chef and a somewhat more innovative menu. The night it was open, we were just in the mood for something tried and true.
Internet service is minimal in town, however. The B&B does not provide service, and there is only one internet café, with one computer. It's in a bar on the "edge" of town, and by the time we finally find it, we don't feel like waiting for it to become available. We were told that the post office has internet access, but you need to buy a card for 7 euros.
All in all, we really enjoyred our visit to Bayeux.
Arriving in Bayeux is easy, and we found the B&B pretty quickly. We are staying in Les Remparts B&B, located in the Place Charles De Gaulle. It is a large park and square. Not an especially inviting square, but there is no problem parking and it feels perfectly safe. Bayeux is a small city, but the center of the old town is very small. We are all of a few blocks away from the main street, but it's very quiet by our B&B.
Les Remparts B&B is built into the ramparts of the city, and is an odd, old building with a very eclectic style. The room is the largest room (two rooms, really) of all the places we've stayed, with a fussy old-fashioned style: painted beams, wallpaper, bed with curtain and an odd assortment of towels. No shampoo here, either, but I'm getting used to the idea that not everyone provides shampoo. The oddest thing is the light sensor in the bathroom, which doesn't turn off right away. This is the least expensive stay of our trip at 52 euos/night.
The host is polite, but distant, and makes himself scarce as soon as we arrived. He runs a family ciderie as well, and has a store and cellar as well as the B&B. Petit dejeuner, served in the store before it opens, was quite good, with good coffee, and a nice selection of bread and pastry.
That evening, we wash our clothes in the lavarie a few blocks away, but it is a bit funky. The washers and dryers barely work. We wash our clothes in the only washer that appears to work, and then put our clothes in the dryer for the right amount of time. We come back expecting to fold ourclothes, but they're barely dry. Okay, well, eventually it gets done, and that's it for a regular wash-stop for the trip. We've taken several quick dry items of clothes, which we wash out regularly, and this works very well. In fact, it keeps our luggage even lighter, because I've convinced Dh to bring less cotton t-shirts and more wash&wear shirts from the fancy sports/camping shop in town.
Dinner that first night is at the Assiette Normande, and service is slow, slow, slow. Too many customers, and the young staff don't seem to handle the crowd all that well. It took over a half hour before we got our order taken, and about the same time for the first course. The rest of the meal proceeded at the same pace. Food was nothing remarkable, and service was poor.
At last, we are off to meet our guide for the half-day tour of the Normandy beaches and sights. A few weeks before the trip, I decided to book a tour. Dh and I are usually do-it-your-selfers, but I felt that this was one time when I wanted to have someone making the sights come alive. And I can't speak highly enough about Roel Klinkhamer and Victory Tours. It was a great tour, and at 5 1/2 hours, considerably longer than the half-day we anticipated. We visited Arromanches, Port-En-Bessin-Omaha Beach-The American War Cemetery and Pointe du Hoc, and a lot of spots along the way were given commentary. It was just ourselves and another couple who, like Roel, were Dutch. This was almost like having a private tour. Roel gave us an excellent tour, his knowledge and passion make the experience of the war very meaningful to both of us. The day is stellar-perfectly blue skies, low humidity, and it is an odd juxtaposition of perfect weather with content, and it is a powerful experience. We were both so glad to see footage of the invasion the day before, because it really helped us to imagine 60+ years earlier. Another benefit of having the tour is that we're both able to relax and enjoy traveling around the countryside.
We come back in the mid-afternoon, stop for a quick crepe and then view the Bayeux tapestry. We arrive around 4pm, and it is not crowded at all.
The tapestry is nearly a thousand years old and tells the story of William the Conquerer and the Norman conquest. Today is the day of invasions! The embroidery was very exciting to see, and is in remarkable condition. The audio guide moves us through the actual embroidery very quickly, to keep the viewer moving, but after it is over, we go back and try to absorb a little bit more of what we are looking at. Before entering the tapestry, there is a movie that tells the story of the tapesty; there is also a display of reproductions of the panels with commentary. We bypass the reproduction of the panels and go directly to the real thing.
Dinner is at Le Pommier, very pleasant and relaxed, and within our usual budget (21 euros/person). The food is well-prepared in a traditional manner, not adventurous, but is very satisfying. The one place we did not try, but recommend is the Petit Bistro, with an excellent chef and a somewhat more innovative menu. The night it was open, we were just in the mood for something tried and true.
Internet service is minimal in town, however. The B&B does not provide service, and there is only one internet café, with one computer. It's in a bar on the "edge" of town, and by the time we finally find it, we don't feel like waiting for it to become available. We were told that the post office has internet access, but you need to buy a card for 7 euros.
All in all, we really enjoyred our visit to Bayeux.
Aug 14th, 2006, 01:32 AM
#27
Original Poster
The Cotentin Pensinsula and Le Mont-St.-Michel
Our destination for the day is Le Mont-St.-Michel (MSM), but since this is the middle of summer, I wanted to arrive as late in the day as possible to avoid the crowds, which can be brutal. I considered some of the options, including exploring more of the Normandy beaches, going inland and seeing Fougeres, or perhaps driving into the Cotentin Peninsula. Dh opted to explore the Peninsula.
Our destination for the first part of the drive was Barfleur, which is a fishing port on the northeast corner of the peninsula and considered a "belle ville de France". It is a pretty port town, and sitting by the sea was very soothing. If you are ambitious, there is a several mile walk to the lighthouse along a curve of beach, but we drive there instead. We walk along the rocks for a few minutes, but find being here less relaxing than by the town.
Now we have a long drive through the peninsula. The ride is interesting-much more rural than much of the region of Normandy that we've driven so far-and not especially touristy. I think I read or was told that the residents of the Cotentin Peninsula refer to anyone who doesn't live there as a "foreigner". Driving all the way to MSM from here is a bit exhausting, though. Although the temperatures have cooled down, the sun is beating down on us, the drive is too long, and we're both ready to arrive at MSM, however crowded it is.
As we get close to MSM, the sight is magnificent-here is the great abbey, at last, rising out of the mist. We arrive at MSM, and parking lot #1 is assigned to those who are staying the night. The lot is closest to the Mount, and it really was not a problem bringing our luggage up. We have 22" rolling suitcases, so it is easy to walk up the hill.
We arrived around 5pm, and the place was still quite crowded. In fact, it was not until maybe 8pm or so that I noticed that the crowds had begun to thin out.
I made a reservation through Venere.com at Auberge St. Pierre, but when we arrived, the reservation had never gone through. I had the printout, however, and the clerk was extremely helpful, and found us a room without a problem. The clerk was extremely nice to us, and let Dh access our email later on as well.
We were on something like the 5th floor, and our room faced the abbey, not the bay. It would've been nice to have the water view, but at night, the sight of the abbey was truly spectacular, and I was pleased with it. The room is small, and the bathroom feels like the bathroom in a cruise ship. Tiny room, big step up-odd architecture, but it was functional. One doesn't have high expectations for a hotel in a heavy tourist location, and this was fine.
After settling into the hotel, we walked the ramparts, getting a feel for the island and having the afternoon cider-coffee combination. The ramparts were fun to explore, and one can walk in and many of the restaurants open onto the ramparts.
Dinner was at Hotel Du Guesclin because it had a great location on the ramparts. During dinner, we kept walking out to watch the tide come in, one of the highlights of being on the Mount.
Dinner was comme-ci, comme-ca. The openers were good, but the main dishes (plats) were not. I had chicken, which was dull, and Dh's lamb was tough. I wish I tried their omelette, though-it looked much better than either dish we had. Still, watching the tide come in was worth every unsavory morsel!
After dinner, we went up to the abbey. It is open late in the summer, and I'm so glad we went then. By 9am the next day, the tourists began to arrive; by 10am, the crowds were quite intense, and we were out of there!
The abbey at night was grand, palatial-and very eerie. I'd been there many years earlier, but in the early morning, and remembered the morning light radiant in the cloisters. This was a darker, more eerie experience. The light outside was spectacular as the sun set, however, and left us with a very mystical feeling. There were some musicians that were performing, too, which was a nice touch.
Our destination for the day is Le Mont-St.-Michel (MSM), but since this is the middle of summer, I wanted to arrive as late in the day as possible to avoid the crowds, which can be brutal. I considered some of the options, including exploring more of the Normandy beaches, going inland and seeing Fougeres, or perhaps driving into the Cotentin Peninsula. Dh opted to explore the Peninsula.
Our destination for the first part of the drive was Barfleur, which is a fishing port on the northeast corner of the peninsula and considered a "belle ville de France". It is a pretty port town, and sitting by the sea was very soothing. If you are ambitious, there is a several mile walk to the lighthouse along a curve of beach, but we drive there instead. We walk along the rocks for a few minutes, but find being here less relaxing than by the town.
Now we have a long drive through the peninsula. The ride is interesting-much more rural than much of the region of Normandy that we've driven so far-and not especially touristy. I think I read or was told that the residents of the Cotentin Peninsula refer to anyone who doesn't live there as a "foreigner". Driving all the way to MSM from here is a bit exhausting, though. Although the temperatures have cooled down, the sun is beating down on us, the drive is too long, and we're both ready to arrive at MSM, however crowded it is.
As we get close to MSM, the sight is magnificent-here is the great abbey, at last, rising out of the mist. We arrive at MSM, and parking lot #1 is assigned to those who are staying the night. The lot is closest to the Mount, and it really was not a problem bringing our luggage up. We have 22" rolling suitcases, so it is easy to walk up the hill.
We arrived around 5pm, and the place was still quite crowded. In fact, it was not until maybe 8pm or so that I noticed that the crowds had begun to thin out.
I made a reservation through Venere.com at Auberge St. Pierre, but when we arrived, the reservation had never gone through. I had the printout, however, and the clerk was extremely helpful, and found us a room without a problem. The clerk was extremely nice to us, and let Dh access our email later on as well.
We were on something like the 5th floor, and our room faced the abbey, not the bay. It would've been nice to have the water view, but at night, the sight of the abbey was truly spectacular, and I was pleased with it. The room is small, and the bathroom feels like the bathroom in a cruise ship. Tiny room, big step up-odd architecture, but it was functional. One doesn't have high expectations for a hotel in a heavy tourist location, and this was fine.
After settling into the hotel, we walked the ramparts, getting a feel for the island and having the afternoon cider-coffee combination. The ramparts were fun to explore, and one can walk in and many of the restaurants open onto the ramparts.
Dinner was at Hotel Du Guesclin because it had a great location on the ramparts. During dinner, we kept walking out to watch the tide come in, one of the highlights of being on the Mount.
Dinner was comme-ci, comme-ca. The openers were good, but the main dishes (plats) were not. I had chicken, which was dull, and Dh's lamb was tough. I wish I tried their omelette, though-it looked much better than either dish we had. Still, watching the tide come in was worth every unsavory morsel!
After dinner, we went up to the abbey. It is open late in the summer, and I'm so glad we went then. By 9am the next day, the tourists began to arrive; by 10am, the crowds were quite intense, and we were out of there!
The abbey at night was grand, palatial-and very eerie. I'd been there many years earlier, but in the early morning, and remembered the morning light radiant in the cloisters. This was a darker, more eerie experience. The light outside was spectacular as the sun set, however, and left us with a very mystical feeling. There were some musicians that were performing, too, which was a nice touch.
Aug 14th, 2006, 01:40 AM
#28
Original Poster
Into Brittany for a brief visit
By 10am the next day, we were on our way. Today's destination is Dinan, but there are several stops along the way. First stop is Dol de Bretagne, a pleasant town, and I make a quick detour into the church, but Dh is saturated with them by now. We shop and buy a little Breton sweater for the 3-year-old granddaughter. And then we are off to Cancale for oysters, of course!
Along the way, we drive a long stretch with an uninspired bay vista. It makes for good oyster beds, I guess, but with the tide out, it's not an especially attractive sight. As we get close to Cancale, we notice a lot of oyster stands. Finally, we arrive in Cancale, and parked for about an hour. We walked along the quay and stopped in one plain-looking restaurant serving just oysters. Very fresh! Very salt-of-the-sea taste, too. Dh thought it would've been fun to stop in one of the stands before town, and that might've been fun. This was good, though, and we had oysters in Cancale, something I had wanted to try.
We continued on to the Pointe du Grouin-a beautiful point extending into the sea. We stopped for a little while, and this was the most dramatic of the water scenery of the trip. There were really great views, and the weather was perfect.
Many years earlier, I had bicycled around Brittany with a boyfriend, and Dh was more than a little impressed when he realized I had bicycled the region we are now driving in. In fact, I was more than a little impressed when I realized what I bicycled once!
We continue, by way of St. Malo. Actually, this was not intentional, but we managed to miss the correct road to Dinan. I have a map that is now many years old, and some of the newer autoroutes just are not listed-BIG mistake! We think that we might make a quick stop at St. Malo, but as we get close, the traffic in and around the walls is just far too hectic for any easy stop. We finally get out of there, and still have a long drive before we arrive in Dinan.
Warning: arriving in Dinan was not for the fainthearted! We are staying in the Hotel Arvor, and the little map I have in the Rough Guide makes it look very easy to find. Only it doesn't really show the hills, the one-way streets, and the distinction between the old town and the area around the river. Dh and I get into one of those marital spats, when I keep saying, "It's not so hard", and we're driving up, down and around. Finally, as both our tempers are rising, he insists that I ask someone. I manage to understand most of what one woman explains, and as we go in that direction, we find the hotel right in front of us. Fortunately!
By 10am the next day, we were on our way. Today's destination is Dinan, but there are several stops along the way. First stop is Dol de Bretagne, a pleasant town, and I make a quick detour into the church, but Dh is saturated with them by now. We shop and buy a little Breton sweater for the 3-year-old granddaughter. And then we are off to Cancale for oysters, of course!
Along the way, we drive a long stretch with an uninspired bay vista. It makes for good oyster beds, I guess, but with the tide out, it's not an especially attractive sight. As we get close to Cancale, we notice a lot of oyster stands. Finally, we arrive in Cancale, and parked for about an hour. We walked along the quay and stopped in one plain-looking restaurant serving just oysters. Very fresh! Very salt-of-the-sea taste, too. Dh thought it would've been fun to stop in one of the stands before town, and that might've been fun. This was good, though, and we had oysters in Cancale, something I had wanted to try.
We continued on to the Pointe du Grouin-a beautiful point extending into the sea. We stopped for a little while, and this was the most dramatic of the water scenery of the trip. There were really great views, and the weather was perfect.
Many years earlier, I had bicycled around Brittany with a boyfriend, and Dh was more than a little impressed when he realized I had bicycled the region we are now driving in. In fact, I was more than a little impressed when I realized what I bicycled once!
We continue, by way of St. Malo. Actually, this was not intentional, but we managed to miss the correct road to Dinan. I have a map that is now many years old, and some of the newer autoroutes just are not listed-BIG mistake! We think that we might make a quick stop at St. Malo, but as we get close, the traffic in and around the walls is just far too hectic for any easy stop. We finally get out of there, and still have a long drive before we arrive in Dinan.
Warning: arriving in Dinan was not for the fainthearted! We are staying in the Hotel Arvor, and the little map I have in the Rough Guide makes it look very easy to find. Only it doesn't really show the hills, the one-way streets, and the distinction between the old town and the area around the river. Dh and I get into one of those marital spats, when I keep saying, "It's not so hard", and we're driving up, down and around. Finally, as both our tempers are rising, he insists that I ask someone. I manage to understand most of what one woman explains, and as we go in that direction, we find the hotel right in front of us. Fortunately!
Aug 14th, 2006, 01:46 AM
#29
Original Poster
Settled and happy, at last
After that, Dinan improves a thousand percent. We love the Hotel Arvor, and the woman who is the proprietor is funny and very welcoming. Once we are there, we are able to park in the lot beside the hotel. And the room is comfortable and airy. The room is under the rafters, and the beams still show through, but it is otherwise updated with a modern bathroom, good towels, plenty of shampoo and soap. We are only staying one night, so we have a room facing a side street, but I adore people-watching whenever I can. The room is 57 euros, and 6 euros/person for the petit dejeuner. I think it's an excellent place, great location and the price is perfect.
Dinan is a beautifully preserved medieval town. We walk around the town, and fall in love with it. I don't know what it is exactly, but it feels different than the Normandy towns that we were in. There are still the similar half-timbered buildings throughout town that we saw in Normandy, but the character just feels different in Brittany. f course, the shops display different wares, and there is a street musician playing the hurdy-gurdy and playing traditional Breton tunes. Brittany is a celtic region and they have their own regional music which is similar to Irish music in sound, but I think it is much more melancholy. I wish we had another week to spend in Brittany, since this is really the one day we have for this region. Still, I'm very glad we stopped here, and so is Dh.
This was another town meant for wandering. And a bit of shopping, too! We are not shoppers, but we both like the Breton fisherman shirts, and I got us each a (modified) version of them. You may have noticed that my name is "Paule", which is a French name but not so common, either. I found a few items with my name written on it, so of course, I had to buy them (I suffer a life-long deprivation of never having a necklace, bracelet, or any other object with my name spelled out with a proper spelling, thanks to my parents!).
There is no internet access at the hotel, and the proprietor directs us to an internet café in the new part of town. After that, we followed the ramparts part of the way around the town, before stopping to eat at a small Greek place, where I had a lovely aubergine farcie (eggplant, beef and pepper).
As we go back, we discover that there is a performance that evening in the square right next to the hotel called "Ne Me Kilt Pas!", which was a "spectacle aux accents delicieusement Scottish et burlesque". I had seen a flyer, and couldn't imagine what it would be-but it turned out to be one of the major highlights of the trip! This was an amazing theatrical presentation by 4 charming guys who use acrobatics, juggling, ribald humor that was fun for kids and adults. Even with minimal understanding of the language, this was a wonderful experience. Here we are in a small square in a small town that is filled with French families, and though we didn't understand much of the language, we enjoyed ourselves totally. A great way to wind up the day.
Transition Day: Rennes
The next day is market day in Dinan, and this one is big and lots of fun. There's plenty of cheese, cider and crepes (the 3 C's of the trip!), and lots of other stuff., too. There's a large new market with clothing that was fun to look at. I never buy, but I like to look anyway.
After several hours, we get ready to leave. Our hotel proprietors are incredibly charming, and we talk to them for a while before leaving.
Finally, it's time to leave. It's a little hard to leave this wonderful town, and know that we're not spending more time in the region. But we get out of town much more easily than we arrive, and head to Rennes.
My initial plan was to stop in Fougeres or Vitre, but Dh is not feeling at all well, and it doesn't seem as important to see yet another charming town. It had been on my list, but I quickly let it go. Today we drop off the car, which is actually a relief. The driving is fun, but it's stressful, and the car has made a funny sound the entire time. This is the first car that we have rented during our travels that we didn't bond with!
Getting into Rennes was no problem. Our hotel, Kyriad Rennes, is across from the Gare, and we find it easily. It took us ages, though, to find the rental return! We have a Hertz car, and it turns out that the mainoffice is in the Gare, although we find a small office that accepts the car a few blocks away.
The hotel is conveniently located for next day's train, and is a comfortable business hotel, with A/C! We've managed without it the entire trip, but it's nice to have it when it's there!
Rennes is a large city, but the old part of town is a relatively small area, about a 25 minute walk from the Gare. It's an attractive old town, but we are both too tired to really try to do or see much. We sensed that it's a great place for students-there were many young people walking around, and there were many stores and shops that looked like they catered to a university population. One thing I found especially interesting was the bilingual signage on buildings and elsewhere throughout the city in Breton and French. We really just took it easy, and got back to the hotel early. Dinner was next door, and Dh's pizza was surprisingly good (my pasta is not). We saw several people ordering pizza to go, so maybe this place has a reputation for it's pizza.
We pack it in early, watch TV for a while, and get ready for the last, but definitely not least, stop of the trip: Paris!
After that, Dinan improves a thousand percent. We love the Hotel Arvor, and the woman who is the proprietor is funny and very welcoming. Once we are there, we are able to park in the lot beside the hotel. And the room is comfortable and airy. The room is under the rafters, and the beams still show through, but it is otherwise updated with a modern bathroom, good towels, plenty of shampoo and soap. We are only staying one night, so we have a room facing a side street, but I adore people-watching whenever I can. The room is 57 euros, and 6 euros/person for the petit dejeuner. I think it's an excellent place, great location and the price is perfect.
Dinan is a beautifully preserved medieval town. We walk around the town, and fall in love with it. I don't know what it is exactly, but it feels different than the Normandy towns that we were in. There are still the similar half-timbered buildings throughout town that we saw in Normandy, but the character just feels different in Brittany. f course, the shops display different wares, and there is a street musician playing the hurdy-gurdy and playing traditional Breton tunes. Brittany is a celtic region and they have their own regional music which is similar to Irish music in sound, but I think it is much more melancholy. I wish we had another week to spend in Brittany, since this is really the one day we have for this region. Still, I'm very glad we stopped here, and so is Dh.
This was another town meant for wandering. And a bit of shopping, too! We are not shoppers, but we both like the Breton fisherman shirts, and I got us each a (modified) version of them. You may have noticed that my name is "Paule", which is a French name but not so common, either. I found a few items with my name written on it, so of course, I had to buy them (I suffer a life-long deprivation of never having a necklace, bracelet, or any other object with my name spelled out with a proper spelling, thanks to my parents!).
There is no internet access at the hotel, and the proprietor directs us to an internet café in the new part of town. After that, we followed the ramparts part of the way around the town, before stopping to eat at a small Greek place, where I had a lovely aubergine farcie (eggplant, beef and pepper).
As we go back, we discover that there is a performance that evening in the square right next to the hotel called "Ne Me Kilt Pas!", which was a "spectacle aux accents delicieusement Scottish et burlesque". I had seen a flyer, and couldn't imagine what it would be-but it turned out to be one of the major highlights of the trip! This was an amazing theatrical presentation by 4 charming guys who use acrobatics, juggling, ribald humor that was fun for kids and adults. Even with minimal understanding of the language, this was a wonderful experience. Here we are in a small square in a small town that is filled with French families, and though we didn't understand much of the language, we enjoyed ourselves totally. A great way to wind up the day.
Transition Day: Rennes
The next day is market day in Dinan, and this one is big and lots of fun. There's plenty of cheese, cider and crepes (the 3 C's of the trip!), and lots of other stuff., too. There's a large new market with clothing that was fun to look at. I never buy, but I like to look anyway.
After several hours, we get ready to leave. Our hotel proprietors are incredibly charming, and we talk to them for a while before leaving.
Finally, it's time to leave. It's a little hard to leave this wonderful town, and know that we're not spending more time in the region. But we get out of town much more easily than we arrive, and head to Rennes.
My initial plan was to stop in Fougeres or Vitre, but Dh is not feeling at all well, and it doesn't seem as important to see yet another charming town. It had been on my list, but I quickly let it go. Today we drop off the car, which is actually a relief. The driving is fun, but it's stressful, and the car has made a funny sound the entire time. This is the first car that we have rented during our travels that we didn't bond with!
Getting into Rennes was no problem. Our hotel, Kyriad Rennes, is across from the Gare, and we find it easily. It took us ages, though, to find the rental return! We have a Hertz car, and it turns out that the mainoffice is in the Gare, although we find a small office that accepts the car a few blocks away.
The hotel is conveniently located for next day's train, and is a comfortable business hotel, with A/C! We've managed without it the entire trip, but it's nice to have it when it's there!
Rennes is a large city, but the old part of town is a relatively small area, about a 25 minute walk from the Gare. It's an attractive old town, but we are both too tired to really try to do or see much. We sensed that it's a great place for students-there were many young people walking around, and there were many stores and shops that looked like they catered to a university population. One thing I found especially interesting was the bilingual signage on buildings and elsewhere throughout the city in Breton and French. We really just took it easy, and got back to the hotel early. Dinner was next door, and Dh's pizza was surprisingly good (my pasta is not). We saw several people ordering pizza to go, so maybe this place has a reputation for it's pizza.
We pack it in early, watch TV for a while, and get ready for the last, but definitely not least, stop of the trip: Paris!
Aug 14th, 2006, 12:07 PM
#32
I really don't care since I am cooped up in an office all day in Paris, but I DO feel for a lot of the tourists who do not seem all that thrilled by the weather, as well as my colleagues in such places at Brittany and Normandy who will be returning soon totally foul-tempered, especially those with children who were planning on spending all day at the beach. And it is a shame to see "Paris Plage" totally deserted.
Aug 14th, 2006, 06:42 PM
#33
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Am enjoying your report so much! It is helping me plan our trip for next spring. One question - we are planning to spend about three days in Dinan and then take the train from Rennes to Paris. I would prefer to stay the last night in Dinan and just drive into to Rennes, turn in the car, and catch the train to Paris. Would this be too hard to do? I am also conisdering spending the night in Rennes close to the train station just as you did. But.....would prefer to stay on in Dinan rather than move for one night. How much time would you allow to drive to Rennes, find the car rental place, turn in the car and get to the train station. I think the rental car place is at the station. I know it can be hard to drive in a city the size of Rennes - so just wanting your opinion! Thanks!
Aug 15th, 2006, 01:09 PM
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Thanks for the detail report and good information. We leave for Amsterdam, Bruges and Paris in 10 days so I look forward to your Paris report. We are also staying in the Verhuulst B&B so it's nice to read such positive comments.
Aug 15th, 2006, 03:31 PM
#36
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I am also enjoying it. You made me wish I had included Dinan in my plans. I guess i"ll wait till next year for that.
I will be in Paris in about a month. I'll be staying at Hotel Monge. I am anxiously awaiting to read your thoughts about it.
I will be in Paris in about a month. I'll be staying at Hotel Monge. I am anxiously awaiting to read your thoughts about it.
Aug 15th, 2006, 06:02 PM
#37
Original Poster
Hi, all. Just a quick check-in. With many things going on right now (including upgrading my computer!), I have not had time to check the posts at all. My Paris write-up will have to wait a few days.
But thanks for the comments!
Nikki, LOL! Yup, those quarrels with Dh are just part of the travails of travel, I guess.
blh,
I think it's doable driving in to Rennes from Dinan and dropping off the car, but.... it depends on your train schedule and your comfort level.
We took the TGV at 11:00am, and though we did have time, I would not have wanted to risk getting caught in traffic and dropping the car. The car dropoff is right by the train station, so that's not really a concern. What time is the train you're taking?
Robin,
We REALLY liked the Hotel Monge a lot. It's very well-maintained and though not fancy, it's got a simple charm and comfort level that exceeds its 2-star status. And we both liked the proprietor and staff very much. We also really enjoyed staying in that location, and found it very accessible and pleasant. And LOVED being near Rue Mouffetard. Highly recommend for comfort, location, yet still modest prices.
I'll try to finish up the rest this weekend! Thanks for all your nice comments!
Paule
But thanks for the comments!
Nikki, LOL! Yup, those quarrels with Dh are just part of the travails of travel, I guess.
blh,
I think it's doable driving in to Rennes from Dinan and dropping off the car, but.... it depends on your train schedule and your comfort level.
We took the TGV at 11:00am, and though we did have time, I would not have wanted to risk getting caught in traffic and dropping the car. The car dropoff is right by the train station, so that's not really a concern. What time is the train you're taking?
Robin,
We REALLY liked the Hotel Monge a lot. It's very well-maintained and though not fancy, it's got a simple charm and comfort level that exceeds its 2-star status. And we both liked the proprietor and staff very much. We also really enjoyed staying in that location, and found it very accessible and pleasant. And LOVED being near Rue Mouffetard. Highly recommend for comfort, location, yet still modest prices.
I'll try to finish up the rest this weekend! Thanks for all your nice comments!
Paule
Aug 15th, 2006, 06:07 PM
#38
Original Poster
hopingtotravel,
Here's the website for La Cour Sainte Catherine, the B&B in Honfleur:
http://www.giaglis.com/GB_maison.htm
Another great place to stay!
Paule
Here's the website for La Cour Sainte Catherine, the B&B in Honfleur:
http://www.giaglis.com/GB_maison.htm
Another great place to stay!
Paule
Oct 22nd, 2006, 03:11 PM
#40
Original Poster
Sorry for the long delay.... my father has been in and out of the hospital for the last 2 months and I had just started a new job. Finding the energy to finish this trip report has taken a while...but here, at last, is Paris.
-------
Paris:
Ahh, Paris. Nous sommes ici! We are here! We both love Paris-being here just makes our heart sing.
The transition:
After a good cup of coffee in a local café in Rennes, we walk across the street from our hotel Kyriad Rennes to the gare (train station). We took an 11:00am TGV from Rennes to Paris, and arrived precisely on time less than 3 hours later. The ride was smooth and quiet and we were lucky to get PREM rates in April. Buying the tickets on line was great-I downloaded the tickets and had printed them out. The only odd thing was the conductor's reaction to our printouts-he did a doubletake, and then asked for our passports. I'm sure he did this because he had to make sure that the tickets were ours, since these are non-transferable.
Arrival:
We arrived in Gare Montparnasse and the only annoyance was having to wait nearly a half hour to buy our carnets. The machines that sold them by credit card were down, and information and ticket sales were in the same place. Lines moved so slowly!
But this was the worst of our problems, and this did not interfere with the joy of arriving in Paris! This is our third trip here, and we both feel very comfortable getting around the metro. We are off to Hotel Monge, and it is a quick trip. Twenty minutes or so later, we arrive at Rue Monge. I feel very satisfied when I realize how easy it is to get to the hotel by metro; once out of the train, it's right around the corner from the metro exit (the exit toward "L'Arenes"
.
The Hotel Monge, as I said earlier, is very comfortable, a rare 2-star hotel with air conditioning. We are there for four nights, and I had reserved a double room facing the street. The first night, the hotel proprietor had to put us into a double room that had a window facing the corner of the Arena. I much preferred the room facing the street; it was larger and much lighter. The a/c works very well, although by the time we arrived in Paris, the temperatures had cooled off enough that we weren't in dire need of it. There's a level of comfort in the hotel, and the proprietor and staff are friendly and helpful. We didn't eat breakfast here, although, at €6.50, the cost is very reasonable and included more than just croissants & coffee. There is also a computer in the reception area that is available for use.
We loved this area, and found it much more interesting than the 7th arrondisement.,where we had stayed two years ago at the Hotel Muguet. We much preferred the Hotel Monge, finding the management and staff at Hotel Monge far friendlier and helpful than that of the Hotel Muguet.
Rue Monge is relatively quiet for a large street, but it is a short walk to Rue Mouffetard, which has a wonderful energy, both day and night. Lots of budget restaurants and a youthful energy at night and good shopping during the day. That first afternoon, we ate chicken kebabs at a small Lebanese place. The food was good, more like a burrito than what I know as a kebab.
One of the pleasures of Paris is walking, and each time we stay in a different area, we get to know that area well. We wandered through areas that were new to us, as well as areas that we'd seen before. Each visit adds a layer of experience and of knowledge of a place. Now that it's our third visit to Paris, it was thrilling to feel a sense of how different areas relate to each other,too,
That first afternoon, we walked first to the Pantheon, a landmark that we already knew, but were pleased when we realized that it was just a short walk away from the hotel. We then explored areas of the 5th that we had not been to before, walking by the Institut du Monde Arabe, admiring the glass-covered contemporary exterior of the building. Some kind of film presentation was taking place, and the building wasn't open to visitors. We wandered through the Jardin des Plantes, a lovely park, with herb and other gardens. The interplay of dark clouds and sun created some dramatic "light shows" , and we sat for a while enjoying the experience of watching the changing weather patterns. Afterward, we stopped by the Mosque de Paris and sat in the garden sippinging delicious mint tea. It was very busy, and seemed to be popular with locals, both Arab and non-Arab clientele.
From there, we wandered over to the Ile-St.-Louis, and once again, were struck by the charming, bohemian-chic island in the heart of the Seine. My goal: to find Amorino, and try their ice cream, something I missed on the last trip. I love ice cream, and I have to tell you: Amorino is too much of a good thin It is VERY RICH and VERY SWEET. It is delicious , but I think I prefer Berthillon, which is not quite as intensely rich, but is very, very flavorful. But next time, I may change my mind....
We checked out the restaurant Cave Sur L'Isle, which got good reviews on the board. The place looked charming, the menu price was right (@ €25/person), so we made a reservation for the next night.
That evening, we had dinner at an excellent Japanese restaurant in the Rue Mouffetard. It was very busy at 10:00 pm, and it seemed to be filled with a local presence. Excellent sushi and grills.
-------
Paris:
Ahh, Paris. Nous sommes ici! We are here! We both love Paris-being here just makes our heart sing.
The transition:
After a good cup of coffee in a local café in Rennes, we walk across the street from our hotel Kyriad Rennes to the gare (train station). We took an 11:00am TGV from Rennes to Paris, and arrived precisely on time less than 3 hours later. The ride was smooth and quiet and we were lucky to get PREM rates in April. Buying the tickets on line was great-I downloaded the tickets and had printed them out. The only odd thing was the conductor's reaction to our printouts-he did a doubletake, and then asked for our passports. I'm sure he did this because he had to make sure that the tickets were ours, since these are non-transferable.
Arrival:
We arrived in Gare Montparnasse and the only annoyance was having to wait nearly a half hour to buy our carnets. The machines that sold them by credit card were down, and information and ticket sales were in the same place. Lines moved so slowly!
But this was the worst of our problems, and this did not interfere with the joy of arriving in Paris! This is our third trip here, and we both feel very comfortable getting around the metro. We are off to Hotel Monge, and it is a quick trip. Twenty minutes or so later, we arrive at Rue Monge. I feel very satisfied when I realize how easy it is to get to the hotel by metro; once out of the train, it's right around the corner from the metro exit (the exit toward "L'Arenes"
. The Hotel Monge, as I said earlier, is very comfortable, a rare 2-star hotel with air conditioning. We are there for four nights, and I had reserved a double room facing the street. The first night, the hotel proprietor had to put us into a double room that had a window facing the corner of the Arena. I much preferred the room facing the street; it was larger and much lighter. The a/c works very well, although by the time we arrived in Paris, the temperatures had cooled off enough that we weren't in dire need of it. There's a level of comfort in the hotel, and the proprietor and staff are friendly and helpful. We didn't eat breakfast here, although, at €6.50, the cost is very reasonable and included more than just croissants & coffee. There is also a computer in the reception area that is available for use.
We loved this area, and found it much more interesting than the 7th arrondisement.,where we had stayed two years ago at the Hotel Muguet. We much preferred the Hotel Monge, finding the management and staff at Hotel Monge far friendlier and helpful than that of the Hotel Muguet.
Rue Monge is relatively quiet for a large street, but it is a short walk to Rue Mouffetard, which has a wonderful energy, both day and night. Lots of budget restaurants and a youthful energy at night and good shopping during the day. That first afternoon, we ate chicken kebabs at a small Lebanese place. The food was good, more like a burrito than what I know as a kebab.
One of the pleasures of Paris is walking, and each time we stay in a different area, we get to know that area well. We wandered through areas that were new to us, as well as areas that we'd seen before. Each visit adds a layer of experience and of knowledge of a place. Now that it's our third visit to Paris, it was thrilling to feel a sense of how different areas relate to each other,too,
That first afternoon, we walked first to the Pantheon, a landmark that we already knew, but were pleased when we realized that it was just a short walk away from the hotel. We then explored areas of the 5th that we had not been to before, walking by the Institut du Monde Arabe, admiring the glass-covered contemporary exterior of the building. Some kind of film presentation was taking place, and the building wasn't open to visitors. We wandered through the Jardin des Plantes, a lovely park, with herb and other gardens. The interplay of dark clouds and sun created some dramatic "light shows" , and we sat for a while enjoying the experience of watching the changing weather patterns. Afterward, we stopped by the Mosque de Paris and sat in the garden sippinging delicious mint tea. It was very busy, and seemed to be popular with locals, both Arab and non-Arab clientele.
From there, we wandered over to the Ile-St.-Louis, and once again, were struck by the charming, bohemian-chic island in the heart of the Seine. My goal: to find Amorino, and try their ice cream, something I missed on the last trip. I love ice cream, and I have to tell you: Amorino is too much of a good thin It is VERY RICH and VERY SWEET. It is delicious , but I think I prefer Berthillon, which is not quite as intensely rich, but is very, very flavorful. But next time, I may change my mind....
We checked out the restaurant Cave Sur L'Isle, which got good reviews on the board. The place looked charming, the menu price was right (@ €25/person), so we made a reservation for the next night.
That evening, we had dinner at an excellent Japanese restaurant in the Rue Mouffetard. It was very busy at 10:00 pm, and it seemed to be filled with a local presence. Excellent sushi and grills.
