mp413

We have 4 days total in Paris before heading to Belgium, and based on things I've read here I planned some basic daily itineraries that I would love you experienced travellers to comment on. I know many of you will think we're cramming in too much, so comment on must-sees or don't-sees on my list (I'm sure we'll downsize once we're actually walking around). There are also a couple of gaps you might all be able to help me fill. Please keep in mind that we plan to spend more time outside wandering than indoors in museums, so don't be alarmed to find that the Louvre is NOT on our list. (We just don't have the time.)

MONDAY we arrive at 6am (yikes, I know). Plan is to RER it to the city, taxi to the hotel (Esmeralda, right across the river from N-D), drop off bags, and head straight for COFFEE. Then walk through Latin quarter (our neighborhood), see churches, Arenes de Lutece, Sorbonne, Cluny during the morning/early afternoon, eat, then head to Ile de la Cite to see Notre Dame, Conciergerie, Ste Chappelle. Then hotel, nap, dinner.

TUESDAY I was thinking musee d'Orsay and Rodin in the morning, then afternoon explore the Marais (I have an amazing book explaining history of almost every bldg there), then walk back to our hotel through St. Louis. At night I thought we might explore another area for dinner, but not sure where (Montparnasse?)

WEDNESDAY I thought we'd walk over to the Louvre complex and walk through it, see Tuileries, Opera, Madeleine, then walk (or train it) toward the Monceau area (and some square Degas mentioned called Square Louis or something). Then Arc de Triomphe for sunset, some strolling on the Champs Elysees, then hotel before our NYE dinner at someplace called Le Grenier de Notre Dame (veggie-haters hold your tongues!). After that plan is to stroll around near the river.

THURSDAY wake up late enough, head to Montmartre and walk around (no funicular for us), see the monstrous Sacre-Coeur, Dali and Marmottan museums maybe. Afterward thought we could quickly stop at Invalides, and spend sunset in the Tour Eiffel.

Thoughts?

I'd love wine bar/cafe/restaurant recommendations, and if there is a nice area to walk around at night in please do tell.

RonZ

ttt

ira

Hi mp,

Of course you have too much planned, but that's not a problem unless you insist on checking things off a list. There is so much to see in Paris that it would be a shame not to just let serendipity play a part.

I suggest that you choose two "must sees" each day, one for the AM and one for the PM and make sure that you get to those.

Have a great trip.

adrienne

Hi mp413,

When you do the Latin Quarter see the Mosque. There's a free English tour of Notre Dame on Wednesday. You might want to catch that - very interesting.

The Marmatton Museum is not in Montmartre - did you mean the Montmartre Museum?

I think the Orsay and Rodin Museums in one morning is a bit much since I think they only open at 10:00. You might want to dot he Rodin in the early afternoon (you can grab a snack at the museum cafe, located in the garden).

Looks like a great plan otherwise - yes you're cramming a bit but you can always scale back or change the itinerary a bit once you're there.

Could you share the name of your book on the Marais? Sounds like a great find on a wonderful area.

mamc

Indeed it looks like a very busy schedule. One comment: I didn't visit the Conciergerie until about my 6th visit to Paris and suggest if you are beginning to tire on your first day, skip the Conciegerie and make sure you see Ste. Chappelle during daylight. In fact, I suggest going there first and walking through the Latin Quarter later in the day when the light is lower. For the other days, you will have to be the judge of whether you can accomplish all you have scheduled. It is so easy to be distracted by cafes and other Paris street scenes.

StCirq

Looks good to me, with the caveats that others have mentioned. Busy, yes, but as long s you're comfortable missing one or two things and getting sidetracked by something equally enthralling, it will be a great trip.

Do tell us about the Esmeralda upon your return :-S

hanl

Your itinerary sounds great to me.

Definitely take the time to stop by the Mosque when in the Latin quarter, and go to the tea rooms for a warming mint tea if you have time.

Montparnasse is a lively neighbourhood, but make sure you have some idea of where you want to go to eat. If you're veggie, I suggest trying out one of the many creperies in the area, especially those on rue Montparnasse and rue d'Odessa. My favourite is Creperie Josselin - always busy, but worth waiting for. You can always get good veggie choices of crepes, and you don't have to order one of the combinations on the menu (which often tend to feature ham or meat in some form).

When in Montmartre (and here I'm repeating recommendations I've made before on this board, but I'm biased, cos I love the neighbourhood), take time to wander rue Lepic and rue des Abbesses. Plenty of decent cafés round here, such as le St Jean or le Chinon. Most of the shops/market stalls should be open, at least in the morning.

On the whole, my preferred areas to wander in the evenings are Montmartre (Lepic/Abbesses - but a hassle to return from late at night), the Marais/Bastille, rue Oberkampf, and the area leading from Place Maubert (Latin quater) to rue Mouffetard. I've always found these areas lively but not threatening, with a good mix of cafés, restaurants and bars, catering mainly (but not exclusively) to a youngish (20's - 30's) crowd, lots of locals. St Michel is lively but touristy.

The only other thing I'd add would be to avoid the Champs Elysées late on NYE (it gets crowded, even unpleasant) but it sounds like you'll have headed back to your hotel/restaurant by then.

Beatchick

Hi mp413,

I'd like to know the name of that Marais book, also!

There's an inexpensive cafe/creperie in the Marais on the Place des Vosges called Nectarine where you can sip cafe on the terrace & people-watch as the sun sets & casts an apricot glow on the surrounding buildings. From the Place des Vosges, you can meander to the Place Ste. Catherine, about 5 minutes walk away, just around the corner from the rue Jarente.

Also, I read somewhere that the lights turn on in the evening by arrondissement & one of the best places to view this is from Montmartre. Cool.

mvor

Hi mp413,

I'm glad you found a restaurant for NYE. I've been following your posts and I'm looking forward to hearing your review upon your return.

On Tuesday, head to the Rodin first (it opens at 9:30) and then go to the Orsay (opens at 10:00). Also, I think the Rodin cafe is closed in winter--the cafe and restaurant in the Orsay will be open and both are quite good. However, I'd plan on eating lunch at one of the Jewish restaurants in the Marais (great falafel). Like others, I'd love to know the name of the book that covers the Marais and its buildings.

Have a terrific trip!

Maureen

mp413

Thank you all for the advice. I was expecting way more 'you're nuts to try to cover all that' comments so I'm felling pretty confident!

The book is actually not *mine*--it's from the architecture library at my old university. I don't have it in front of me, but I believe it is called 'Paris Monuments' and has an AMAZING breakdown of every major AND MINOR building/monument in each of Paris' 20 arrondissements. And for almost each bldg/monument there is an elevation drawing so you can find what you're looking at on the street--it's completely amazing. I am photocopying the Marais section because it appears to have the most lovely little buildings and fountains, and it's so nice to walk around and have an idea of what you're looking at, who built it, when, and what for.

Anyway, I will look up the author/publisher and let you know tomorrow. It's probably not something you'd find at B&N but it's probably orderable on Amazon and such.

I know--I am very *curious* as to what this hotel Esmeralda will be like...I'm somewhat skeptical but who cares at such low prices (and when you'll supposedly see N-D from your room)...

Kristi

Thanks for the creperie recommendations Hanl and Beatchick! I will be in Paris between Christmas and NY and that was exactly the kind of place I was looking for.

Beatchick

You're welcome, Kristi. Just north of the Place Maubert is another smaller place. Right there is the very 1st hotel I ever stayed at in Paris called the Hotel Degres de Notre Dame. Besides being a hotel, it's also a very inexpensive restaurant, a couscouserie. I ate dinner there last time - 'twas wonderful, a coucous with merguez sausage. With aperitif & wine it was less than $20.

Uh oh, mp413, I'm in trouble now. I've already got more than 80 books on my Amazon wishlist (ahem! - mostly Paris), now I have to add this one as well!! I'd love to own it!!!!!

Degas

mp413, looks like a great plan. Go for the gusto and rest when you get back.

And now the mystery square - perhaps you are referring to the Chapelle Expiatoire in the Square Louis XVI?

You can take a look at it and many other Paris wonders at:

paris-views.com/html/HTML1236.htm?0,1,Title,1236

RonZ

Your hotel is very close to the RER station, so you may not need a cab. When you get there, take a look at the route of the #24 city bus, posted at the bus stop.

Kristi

Beatchick, I just ordered a book called Paris Buildings and Monuments, if it's the same book that mp413 is talking about it is cheaper on Amazon than on BN.com This will give me yet one more book that I probably won't be able to read before I go!

adrienne

Hi mp,

From the Rodin Museum web site, the cafe is open 9:30 to 4:30 October 1 to March 31. They enclose it for the winter and there's indoor seating.

Beatchick - are you going back to Paris this spring?

mvor

Adrienne, thanks for updating us on the Rodin cafe being open. I may check it out during my February trip. Maureen

mp413

Indeed, the book is called 'Paris: Buildings and Monuments' by Michel Poisson (an architect). It's really great.

Thanks RonZ for letting me know we wouldn't need the cab--that's what I had been hoping.

Kristi

mp413, I confess I haven't read through this entire message so forgive me if I'm repeating. Paris is extremely busy between xmas and NY and if you haven't planned on getting a museum pass, it is a must in my opinion. They have them for 1, 3 or 5 days and not only does it save money but also oodles of time. Expect to see lines everywhere! The Louvre has a special entrance, can't remember exactly where but do not stand in the line by the pyramid if you have the pass and change your mind about going. With the pass you won't feel bad if you just zip in and see one or two things (Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Winged Victory) and then leave.

mp413

Thanks a lot for that tip Kristi! I was actually planning to ask a separate question about whether it would be worth buying a museum pass if we were only going to 3-4 museums, but you've answered my question! Thanks!