Itinerary for 29 Day Empty Nesters Trip to France…finally!
Aug 16th, 2016, 10:24 AM
#21
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Super touristy places like Rocamadour are open on Sundays. Roque (note spelling) Gageac will have some activity also.
In 2013, we visited about 20 Bastide towns near our gite in Puy l'Eveque. It was the second or third visit to several of them. The Bastide towns mentioned above were our favorites - that are somewhat close together and are "do-able" on a single day trip. The Bastide museum in Monflanquin occupied is for about 1+ hours or more. It is very well "put together" and discusses the "whys" of Bastide towns. Issigac is really not a Bastide town - but it was one of our favorite village (and we are "cute little village" junkies).
Do not miss St Cirq Lapopie. We've visited it perhaps 4 times, and it is much more "cleaned-up and refined" than it was 20 years ago. It was awarded "Plus Beau Village of the Year" a few years back, and was also featured in France Today magazine recently
https://www.francetoday.com/travel/t...llages-france/
Stu Dudley
In 2013, we visited about 20 Bastide towns near our gite in Puy l'Eveque. It was the second or third visit to several of them. The Bastide towns mentioned above were our favorites - that are somewhat close together and are "do-able" on a single day trip. The Bastide museum in Monflanquin occupied is for about 1+ hours or more. It is very well "put together" and discusses the "whys" of Bastide towns. Issigac is really not a Bastide town - but it was one of our favorite village (and we are "cute little village" junkies).
Do not miss St Cirq Lapopie. We've visited it perhaps 4 times, and it is much more "cleaned-up and refined" than it was 20 years ago. It was awarded "Plus Beau Village of the Year" a few years back, and was also featured in France Today magazine recently
https://www.francetoday.com/travel/t...llages-france/
Stu Dudley
Aug 16th, 2016, 10:31 AM
#22
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PS - we are dining at Le Bibent next week. It's our second visit to this restaurant.
We visited Beaumont du Perigord during our "20 Bastide Towns" adventure - and we were quite disappointed. It may have been a Bastide town at one time (there is some remains of the central square), but the D660 "sliced" through this town and there is really no resemblance of a Bastide town remaining. We had to dodge the traffic on the D660 when we were exploring it on foot.
Hope this helps.
Stu Dudley
We visited Beaumont du Perigord during our "20 Bastide Towns" adventure - and we were quite disappointed. It may have been a Bastide town at one time (there is some remains of the central square), but the D660 "sliced" through this town and there is really no resemblance of a Bastide town remaining. We had to dodge the traffic on the D660 when we were exploring it on foot.
Hope this helps.
Stu Dudley
Aug 16th, 2016, 11:44 AM
#23
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We were in Beaumont yesterday and didn't notice anything that would indicate that the bastide isn't still obvious or that there are only "remains" of the bastide. It's entirely intact.. The entire arcaded town square is still there, with some lively shops and cafés all around it. The covered market is still standing in the center of it, the romanesque chapel right off the square is gorgeous, and the grid pattern of the town is still entirely evident. It's THE best place in the Périgord to buy second-hand goods and antiques.
No, the D660 doesn't "slice through the town." It's on the outskirts, to the west ,between Bourniquel and Petit Bressac.. We had a lovely time roaming around the old bastide and looking at all the brocantes. There was little traffic and we certainly didn't have to dodge anything on the D660, which isn't anywhere near the center of the old bastide.
No, the D660 doesn't "slice through the town." It's on the outskirts, to the west ,between Bourniquel and Petit Bressac.. We had a lovely time roaming around the old bastide and looking at all the brocantes. There was little traffic and we certainly didn't have to dodge anything on the D660, which isn't anywhere near the center of the old bastide.
Aug 16th, 2016, 12:13 PM
#24
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 23,005
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<i>the <b>romanesque</b> [my emphasis] chapel right off the square is gorgeous</i>
According to one report: "Beaumont church, the Church of St Front, was built at the end of the 13th century, and as is usual for a bastide town it formed an important part of the towns defensive strategy. It is a beautiful example of the <b>Gothic</b> [my emphasis], military style of church building."
And according to Google map, D660 passes right by the church. Of course, there may be a <i>déviation</i> for truck and through traffic around the town, as is often the case for towns in the Dordogne.
According to one report: "Beaumont church, the Church of St Front, was built at the end of the 13th century, and as is usual for a bastide town it formed an important part of the towns defensive strategy. It is a beautiful example of the <b>Gothic</b> [my emphasis], military style of church building."
And according to Google map, D660 passes right by the church. Of course, there may be a <i>déviation</i> for truck and through traffic around the town, as is often the case for towns in the Dordogne.
Aug 16th, 2016, 12:20 PM
#25
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just to throw something else in the mix, my favorite perched village is Najac, about an hour directly south of Figeac. I prefer to St. Cirq or Cordes sur Ciel which are both better known.
http://www.tourisme-aveyron.com/en/d...bles/najac.php
It's relatively unspoiled with a fantastic restaurant, L'Oustal del Barry, just across the road from the main village car park. Excellent lunch, book ahead for an outdoor table with a fantastic view.
http://www.oustaldelbarry.com/en/#restaurant
http://www.tourisme-aveyron.com/en/d...bles/najac.php
It's relatively unspoiled with a fantastic restaurant, L'Oustal del Barry, just across the road from the main village car park. Excellent lunch, book ahead for an outdoor table with a fantastic view.
http://www.oustaldelbarry.com/en/#restaurant
Aug 16th, 2016, 12:41 PM
#26
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Look at Google Maps - the D660/Rue Romieu goes through the exact middle of Beaumont - next to the Place Centrale (where the covered market is located), Eglise Fortifee, Place Vielle, and either directly next to or 1-2 blocks away from every single site that is indicated on the walking map we obtained from the Tourist Office.
https://www.google.com/maps/@44.7689.../data=!3m1!1e3
I take notes when we travel. On the walking map I wrote "didn't feel like a Bastide town. Some interesting "things" - but nothing exceptional. Good walking guide/map. The main street through town has no interesting buildings"
I gave the town a C- rating. It has no "stars" awarded to it by the Michelin Green Guide.
Other Bastide town ratings by me:
Issignac A-
Monflanquin A (extra points for their museum)
Eymet B
Monpazier A
Here is my wife's Shutterfly book from our trip.
https://stududley.shutterfly.com/30
Click Full screen
Because of Shutterfly software problems, captions & text are often truncated or missing.
On page 1, she describes a Bastide town and has a photo of a Bastide "emblum". This emblum is also placed on the pages where each bastide town is pictured. Many bastide towns we visiited are not in the book for several reasons (main square is now a parking lot full of cars, for example).
Stu Dudley
https://www.google.com/maps/@44.7689.../data=!3m1!1e3
I take notes when we travel. On the walking map I wrote "didn't feel like a Bastide town. Some interesting "things" - but nothing exceptional. Good walking guide/map. The main street through town has no interesting buildings"
I gave the town a C- rating. It has no "stars" awarded to it by the Michelin Green Guide.
Other Bastide town ratings by me:
Issignac A-
Monflanquin A (extra points for their museum)
Eymet B
Monpazier A
Here is my wife's Shutterfly book from our trip.
https://stududley.shutterfly.com/30
Click Full screen
Because of Shutterfly software problems, captions & text are often truncated or missing.
On page 1, she describes a Bastide town and has a photo of a Bastide "emblum". This emblum is also placed on the pages where each bastide town is pictured. Many bastide towns we visiited are not in the book for several reasons (main square is now a parking lot full of cars, for example).
Stu Dudley
Aug 16th, 2016, 02:38 PM
#27
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cybertraveller, your itinerary sounds amazing, and I'm learning a lot for a future SW trip of my own. I have one suggestion, based not on experience but on my own "someday" plan...that would be to go from Rouen to Honfleur via Jumieges on the Route des Abbayes. You may already have this planned.
http://www.norman-abbeys.com
I don't know which of your 5 days in Paris is the Sunday, but it's too bad you can't shrink Paris to 4 nights and hit Giverny on your way to Rouen.
Have a great time!
http://www.norman-abbeys.com
I don't know which of your 5 days in Paris is the Sunday, but it's too bad you can't shrink Paris to 4 nights and hit Giverny on your way to Rouen.
Have a great time!
Aug 16th, 2016, 04:32 PM
#28
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 916
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stu, thanks for your input. We have used your itineraries before in Provence and Tuscany, and they have been a great help. It’s good to hear that things will be open on Sunday in Rocamadour…also in Roque Gageac. I am looking forward to the museum in Monflanquin. We were already very interested in Saint-Cirq Lapopie, and the link you posted sealed the deal for us. We always believe that places are popular for a reason, and it’s easy to see why many people do like that town. The Shutterfly book has some beautiful photos of the Bastide towns, too.
Cathinjoetown, thanks for the link on Najac. It looks wonderful, and if we have time, we’ll try to get there.
KathleenMaine, I’m glad that the itinerary is helpful to you. Thanks for the thoughts on fitting Giverny in our trip. Sunday is the fourth day in Paris. So, the next day we would be driving right past Giverny.
We did originally consider visiting Giverny on the way to Rouen and Honfleur, but decided that it was packing a bit much into one day. Since we’ve been in Paris and seen all of the major museums and sights (some more than once), it seemed like a good way to spend Sunday morning when presumably most places will be closed. However, it might be better to just go on our way out of town on Monday. Does anyone else have an opinion on which would be the better way to do this?
Cathinjoetown, thanks for the link on Najac. It looks wonderful, and if we have time, we’ll try to get there.
KathleenMaine, I’m glad that the itinerary is helpful to you. Thanks for the thoughts on fitting Giverny in our trip. Sunday is the fourth day in Paris. So, the next day we would be driving right past Giverny.
We did originally consider visiting Giverny on the way to Rouen and Honfleur, but decided that it was packing a bit much into one day. Since we’ve been in Paris and seen all of the major museums and sights (some more than once), it seemed like a good way to spend Sunday morning when presumably most places will be closed. However, it might be better to just go on our way out of town on Monday. Does anyone else have an opinion on which would be the better way to do this?
Aug 16th, 2016, 04:55 PM
#29
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We love Sundays in Paris. Perhaps our favorite day of the week to be there. Just wander around the quays of the Seine. Maybe loop around & through l'Isl St Louis & have a Berthalin ice cream. Shops are open on l'Isle St Louis and also in the Marais.
However, Sunday is a great day to leave Paris by car. Much less traffic. We usually depart our trips to France from Paris on Sundays. When we take a taxi to CDG, there are very few people on the road.
Note that most shops in Rouen will be closed on Monday morning. Although we're not fans of Monet & his garden is not our style - it might be a good idea to visit Giverny Monday morning (if you depart Paris then). Then off to Rouen & get there around noon for lunch & visit afterwards. Then to Honfleur. I don't know what time of year you are traveling - but as I recall when we stayed in Honfleur for 3 nights - it's best in the morning & evening when the day-trippers are not there.
Stu Dudley
However, Sunday is a great day to leave Paris by car. Much less traffic. We usually depart our trips to France from Paris on Sundays. When we take a taxi to CDG, there are very few people on the road.
Note that most shops in Rouen will be closed on Monday morning. Although we're not fans of Monet & his garden is not our style - it might be a good idea to visit Giverny Monday morning (if you depart Paris then). Then off to Rouen & get there around noon for lunch & visit afterwards. Then to Honfleur. I don't know what time of year you are traveling - but as I recall when we stayed in Honfleur for 3 nights - it's best in the morning & evening when the day-trippers are not there.
Stu Dudley
Aug 17th, 2016, 10:18 AM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 916
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Stu--it does sound better to visit Giverny on Monday when we leave Paris, then to Rouen on the way to Honfleur. Good to know what will be open on Paris on Sunday. We love Isle St Louis, and Berthillion ice cream! Enjoy your dinner at Le Bibent.
Thanks again to all who have posted with such great information.
We're almost ready to go--mostly packed, and now the big challenge is to get the boys settled at college in a few days. Sure to be a few tears shed on my part, dropping our youngest for his first year...this trip will certainly go a long way towards cheering us up about being empty nesters!
Thanks again to all who have posted with such great information.
We're almost ready to go--mostly packed, and now the big challenge is to get the boys settled at college in a few days. Sure to be a few tears shed on my part, dropping our youngest for his first year...this trip will certainly go a long way towards cheering us up about being empty nesters!
Aug 17th, 2016, 11:01 AM
#32
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We'll be in the Dordogne area (Carennac and Cenac) from Sept 3 through Sept 24. You probably saw a picture of me in the photo album. If you spot me in the Dordogne - say "hi".
Also, Sept 17 & 18 is Patrimoine weekend in France. Many places have sites & buildings open then, which are not normally open to the public. We were in Nancy for Patrimoine last year, and also Rennes & Dijon on prior trips (Paris too). If you find yourself in a large or medium-sized city on those dates - head to the tourist office to find out what is open.
Stu Dudley
Also, Sept 17 & 18 is Patrimoine weekend in France. Many places have sites & buildings open then, which are not normally open to the public. We were in Nancy for Patrimoine last year, and also Rennes & Dijon on prior trips (Paris too). If you find yourself in a large or medium-sized city on those dates - head to the tourist office to find out what is open.
Stu Dudley
Aug 17th, 2016, 11:48 AM
#33
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 696
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What a wonderful discussion. This is what I like best about Fodors, People who are passionate about travel and happy to share information. I plan to review this information to finalize my itinerary for this September.
Aug 17th, 2016, 01:39 PM
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 916
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stu, we'll be in Saint Remy de Provence and Apt (for the market Saturday morning) for Patrimoine weekend. We'll be sure to check to see if there are any special openings then. We'll be in Sarlat and Rocamadour Sept 5-13; we'll definitely say hi if we see you in the Dordogne.
Pawleys, have a great trip!
Pawleys, have a great trip!
Aug 17th, 2016, 02:50 PM
#36
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
St Remy is probably too small to have anything going on for Patrimoine and Apt probably won't either - perhaps because the market engulfs the town (just a guess by me). But certainly Avignon will have something special.
We'll be in the Carennac gite from Sept 3 to 17. Sept 5 is our anniversary & we're having dinner at Chateau de la Treyne
http://www.chateaudelatreyne.com/en/
Stu Dudley
We'll be in the Carennac gite from Sept 3 to 17. Sept 5 is our anniversary & we're having dinner at Chateau de la Treyne
http://www.chateaudelatreyne.com/en/
Stu Dudley
Aug 17th, 2016, 05:47 PM
#38
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I must admit that I would not have liked trying to visit Giverny and Rouen en route to Honfleur -- too much to see and do! I wanted about 6 hours for Giverny (Monet's gardens and the Musée des impressionism's Giverny and its garden) and wish I'd had more time in Rouen than the 1.5 days I gave it.... To each his/her own!
Aug 17th, 2016, 08:32 PM
#39
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,444
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
>>> I wanted about 6 hours for Giverny (Monet's gardens and the Musée des impressionism's Giverny and its garden) and wish I'd had more time in Rouen than the 1.5 days I gave it.... To each his/her own!<<<
Yep. I would have spent 30 mins in Giverny and 2+ days in Rouen if I had to do it over again. Results are still the same based on what's one's tastes are like. Giverny/Rouen are 2-3 day events. But you can say the same thing for just about anywhere in France - not enough time to really see all there is to see. We typically spend 2 weeks in a single location - and then depart with some stuff we didn't get to visit - but wish we had.
Stu Dudley
Yep. I would have spent 30 mins in Giverny and 2+ days in Rouen if I had to do it over again. Results are still the same based on what's one's tastes are like. Giverny/Rouen are 2-3 day events. But you can say the same thing for just about anywhere in France - not enough time to really see all there is to see. We typically spend 2 weeks in a single location - and then depart with some stuff we didn't get to visit - but wish we had.
Stu Dudley
Aug 17th, 2016, 08:45 PM
#40
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Results are still the same based on what's one's tastes are like. "
For these places, apparently so! But not always. My interests include art and architecture and museums and (among other things) some actual hikes; I have little interest in long strolls or time in markets beyond what I "need" to take some good pics. IIRC, StuDudley's interests place much greater emphasis on time to stroll through markets and shops. (Please forgive me if I'm mis-characterizing your interests, StuDudley; but even if I am, perhaps you would agree that the principal at issue still applies?) In some places, at some times, the differences matter. For example, I wouldn't worry about missing a market day or visiting a place while shops are closed, but would hate finding that a museum I wanted to visit was closed while I was there. Again, viva la difference! Just a note to cybertraveler be sure that what you plan works for YOUR interests.
For these places, apparently so! But not always. My interests include art and architecture and museums and (among other things) some actual hikes; I have little interest in long strolls or time in markets beyond what I "need" to take some good pics. IIRC, StuDudley's interests place much greater emphasis on time to stroll through markets and shops. (Please forgive me if I'm mis-characterizing your interests, StuDudley; but even if I am, perhaps you would agree that the principal at issue still applies?) In some places, at some times, the differences matter. For example, I wouldn't worry about missing a market day or visiting a place while shops are closed, but would hate finding that a museum I wanted to visit was closed while I was there. Again, viva la difference! Just a note to cybertraveler be sure that what you plan works for YOUR interests.
