Ciao tutti, My husband and I are thinking of a, more or less last minute, trip to Northern Italy (Venice, Chioggia, perhaps Padova and Vicenza) at the end of September into beginning of October. We live on the European continent which makes last minute trips, especially off season, a little more feasible. We are waiting for the latest COVID situation update after the end of the Italian holiday season to see if the situation remains clear (and not go back to code red!) and then we'll pack our things and leave.

One thought is to drive to Italy. Having a car with us provides a lot of freedom and will allow us to bring back some lovely Italian products such as wine and olive oil. The last thing we want in Venice however is a car so we hope to leave it somewhere safe and take a train or bus into the city.

Question: can anyone recommend a good and safe place to leave our car in the vicinity of Venice? We plan to take a smaller backpack or suitcase to Venice, instead of taking all our luggage. I heard that trolley cases are no longer allowed in Venice. We'd rather not leave the rest of our luggage unattended in the car. Any suggestions?

We heard that neighborhoods such as Cannareggio or Dorsoduro are much more authentic than the other, more touristy area's so we'd like to concentrate our efforts to find a nice, personable place to stay on those two. Any recommendations for hotels or bed and breakfasts are most appreciated. Incidentally: I noticed that hotel prices in September, October and even November are almost double those in May and June. I am puzzled as to the reason for that.

Time and weather permitting we'd love to drive further South to the wonderful region of Le Marche. We have our eyes on a smaller family run agriturismo in that area and have made a preliminary booking.
As always I look forward to your suggestions and advice. Thank you in advance!

AFAIK, the "ban" on wheeled luggage is an old rumor. I was unable to find any discussion of this since about 2015.... If that's the only reason you're looking for specific "safe parking" advice, I'd just take your suitcases with you to your Venice lodging.

September-October is still very much high season for Venice, so lodging rates will reflect that. For useful recommendations, you should state a budget. I don't know what makes one neighborhood feel more authentic than another. I know I wouldn't want to stay in the immediate Piazza San Marco area, but Venice is small. I like the Dorsoduro, but there are few Venetians living there. We've stayed at Pensione La Calcina a couple of times. But if you were thinking of making day trips by train to Padova and Vicenza, you might want to stay somewhat close to the train station. I believe Chioggia is best reached by car.

If the topic "where do the Venetians live" interests you, scroll down a few pages in the report at the link to a map of "Population Change and Unoccupied Dwellings." If you scroll further in the report, there is map showing where schools and grocery stores are located.

Unmasking Tourism in Venice ? MIT Department of Urban Studies and Planning

The two places I'd look at are the multi-storied car park at the end of the causeway in Venice proper, or the two car parks just next to the Mestre train station, just to the south and on the west side. Both look pretty secure.

Thank you both Jean and Bilboburgler for your replies. As always: very helpful!!!
I found the MIT article very humbling indeed and it give much food for thought. I can share with you that I myself live in a historic town in Northern Europe and over the years have experienced the effects of tourism on the general make up of my town. Grocery stores, bakeries and butchers have disappeared in favor of boutiques and art galleries. Nothing wrong with that but the locals now have to get into their car to get the basics whereas before they could walk or take their bikes.

To me personally preparing for a trip is half the fun. I have found a book called Secret Venice, written by three authors, among them the Venetian author Paola Zoffoli who has also written a children's book on Venice
I will digest all this information and will keep on dreaming of going to Venice soon! Speriamo bene!

Unmasking Tourism in Venice ? MIT Department of Urban Studies and Planning[/QUOTE]

Hi Elizabeth, nice to see that you are thinking of going to Venice - please have a spritz for me when you get there!

I agree that as you are arriving by car and hoping to do some day trips by train, staying near-sh to the station is a good idea. In fact by vaporetto both Cannaregio and Dorsoduro are both close to the station, though of course if you want to walk, Cannaregio is more convenient. My favourite hotel, the Arcadia, is about a 10 minute walk from the station and though it's on the main drag from the station to San Marco, the rooms are very quiet. It's also an excellent spot for exploring the Ghetto and the northern part of Venice which tends to attract fewer tourists than the area around San Marco and the Rialto.

And I can strongly recommend day trips to Padua and Vicenza. On my last trip, sadly nearly two years ago now, I went to both whilst I was there and had such a good time. My penultimate day in Venice was spent in Vicenza exploring its Palladian buildings - even though it was November it was warm with bright blue skies and a wonderful view of the Dolomites from the top of the Basilica and on a different day I also went to Padua to see the Scrovegni Chapel, though it's probably necessary to book that if you want to go. Chioggia I've never been to so I'm afraid I can't help there.

Dear AnnHig, good to hear from you and thank you so much for sharing your travel experiences in our beloved Italy.
I just love this forum where people are willing to share tips and tricks. Over the years I have received such valuable advice! Thank you Fodorites!

Given the latest COVID developments and predictions we have decided to wait making definite plans until the end of this month to see what the effects of the Summer holidays (and Ferragosto) will ultimately be on the current situation in Italy. Speriamo bene!
Have a good weekend.

Were I in your shoes I'm sure i'd be doing the same, Elisabeth. It's a shame you can't make firm plans, but you are in an ideal situation when you can decide to go when you want, almost on spec.

Quick update: we have solved the "problem" of where to leave our car by renting a private house near Vicenza for the first part of our stay. From there we will explore the Veneto area (Verona, Vicenza, Padova) and ultimately will take the train from Padova to Venice to spend five days there. We can leave our car and half of our luggage with our hosts so we can travel light. All accommodation booked (and to be cancelled in case the covid figures in Italy go up) so all set! I can hardly believe it!
I'll spend the next weeks reading up on the region and of course on Venice itself. I'm immensely looking forward to this trip and feel like a kid in a candy store. One good side to this whole covid situation: you do appreciate and are more aware of what 'the freedom to travel' really means.

that sounds wonderful, Elisabeth. Vicenza is lovely as is Padua and I'm sure you'll enjoy it all. Great way to get round the car parking problem too.

If you are interested in Palladio, as well as visiting the many buildings of his in Vicenza you can do a trip down the Brenta canal which is lined with his villas - something I've promised myself I'll do one day. I'm sure you'll have a great time.

Chioggia is like a mini-venice (really very small) and the main area is crowded with fishing boats and fish restaurants. I cycled to it years ago, but there is a vaperetto which takes the long drag from Venice proper to it on a regular but infrequent basis and if the weather is fine is a great opportunity for a boat ride, watching the birds etc.

I love how you've solved the luggage problem, and I second Annhig's recs for Vicenza; loved the architecture and I hope you can get to the Olympic Theatre, right in town, as well. Some nice restaurants too. I also love Verona, having spent time there in a language course. In Padua as mentioned the Scrovegni Chapel is well worth a visit and highly regulated as to numbers permitted in the chapel at a given time, so yes, reservations. The medical school/anatomy theatre were also wonderful to see.

But my heart belongs to Venice, still, and we are eager to visit while it is quiet, relatively. If all goes well we will be there first week in October, We now splurge on a place we have stayed before, Hotel Al Ponte Antico, but otherwise stay in Cannaregio at a small b&b attached to a small factory that makes the smalti glass for mosaic work--Orsoni is the name, and they sometimes offer brief tours (maybe limited due to Covid).

Since you enjoy the research and anticipation, I wonder if you know Donna Leon's mysteries set in Venice? For me they evoke the place wonderfully; another Fodorite has a friend who writes mysteries set in Venice as well, but the author's name escapes me; will try to find it.

By the way -- if you are an "Inspector Morse" fan, the episode, "The Death of the Self," is set mainly in Vicenza with some scenes in Verona, at the Arena (opera!).

<<Since you enjoy the research and anticipation, I wonder if you know Donna Leon's mysteries set in Venice? For me they evoke the place wonderfully; another Fodorite has a friend who writes mysteries set in Venice as well, but the author's name escapes me; will try to find it. >>

I am not his only friend here but the author is Philip Gwynne Jones [husband of fodorite Caroilne_Edinburgh] whose first book in the series is called The Venetian Legacy - and he has just delivered the sixth one to the publishers. They are terrific stories with engaging characters and a great sense of place. Thoroughly recommended. https://www.google.com/search?client...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Thanks for the Morse tip. I must look out for it.

Good morning AnnHig and AnnW, thank you for this wealth of information on the Veneto region and Venice itself. Yes, I am familiar with the Donna Leon books. The author Philip Gwynne Jones and his books came up in previous discussions on this forum I remember. Must look into those as well!
1. AnnW: how did you like the language course in Verona? I am debating between the language schools in Venice and Verona and will use this trip to do some fact-finding. There is quite a difference in approach is my personal experience; some schools (e.g. Torino) have a well organized curriculum and others are fun but a bit more relaxed.
2. AnnW: Thank you for the suggestion of Orsoni Glass, I will find out if they still organize tours. If you'd like to share it, what is the name of the B&B in Canareggio?

I just discovered an interesting guidebook via an article on Italy in a Dutch magazine. It's about a multitude of details, found in various places in Venice. The book is called: Secret Venice, written by three authors: Thomas Jonglez, Paola Zoffoli and Irene Galifi. ISBN: 978-2-36195-411-6
Good reading material for the weekend!

Hi again Elisabeth. Glad you found the info helpful. Do you mind if i ask which language school you are thinking of going to in Venice? If it's the Istituto di Venezia in the Campo Santa Margarita I've been to it twice and I would say that it belongs to the more formal end of the spectrum, though it was still lots of fun. They also do some interesting activities in the afternoon which anyone can join in. Some schools will let you try a lesson or two with them if you want to.

I like the Secret Venice book too.

Yes, AnnHig, that's the school I have in mind. One of my classmates attended a two week course at the Instituto and is enthousiastic about the more structured approach. Obviously you liked it too. The two language schools in Verona, Idea Verona and Lingua IT, have recently merged. They both have a good reputation and of course the proximity of the opera aren is an added benefit.

We'll have plenty to do while in Venice but I do intend to stop by the school. Where did you stay when you attended the course? I am thinking of an apartment of small B&B.
Glad you enjoy Secret Venice!

I also love Secret Venice! And thanks Annhig for reminding me the name of the author/series.

Elizabeth I took a week-long course at InClasse in Verona; they have branches elsewhere in Italy. InClasse had small groups/classes, young engaging teachers, and classroom instruction with a couple of outings.

But my dream is to take a course at the place you and Annhig are talking about in Venice.

The b&b I mentioned is actually connected to the Orsoni small factory/workshop, Domus Orsoni. There are five rooms, all decorated with mosaics by the Maestros; breakfast is simple, the setting includes a garden; bedrooms are upstairs and downstairs is a gallery of mosaics. It's well run but generally low interactions with the good staff/managers--i.e., they are off site after 7-8 p.m. those of us who take courses at Orsoni often stay in the b&b since the workshop is right there. Here's a review, and it's now listed in some of the booking sites. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/d...-orsoni-hotel/

<<Yes, AnnHig, that's the school I have in mind. One of my classmates attended a two week course at the Instituto and is enthousiastic about the more structured approach. Obviously you liked it too. The two language schools in Verona, Idea Verona and Lingua IT, have recently merged. They both have a good reputation and of course the proximity of the opera aren is an added benefit.

We'll have plenty to do while in Venice but I do intend to stop by the school. Where did you stay when you attended the course? I am thinking of an apartment of small B&B. Glad you enjoy Secret Venice!>>

Elisabeth, I've been to four or five different language schools and I would put the Istituto in the top two, though they have all been pretty good, TBH. The differences are more in the levels of organisation and the activities offered, rather than the standard of teaching which has always been pretty good and in some cases excellent. The first time I went there I stayed in a rented room in an privately owned apartment which was organised by the school which wasn't altogether satisfactory, if I'm honest; the second time I was staying in a friend's apartment while she was away which was much better. Since the first time the school has bought ? a modern apartment complex in Dorsoduro which I haven't seen but know someone who stayed there and they liked it a lot. It's on their website if you want to have a look at it and where it is.

Even if you don't stay there, doing a tour of the Orsini is well worth it if they are still doing them. Fascinating.