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Old Apr 14th, 2005, 06:09 AM
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Italy - Rome report

Hello fellow travelers!

Just returned from 12 days all across Italy. We arrived in Rome the Saturday that the Pope died. The strange thing was that we didn't find out until the next morning. I was really surprised because I just thought the whole city would be in upheaval.

Our hotel was Residenza Cellini, the BEST! Very friendly, helpful. Great room, quiet street, great breakfast, easy to walk to everything except Vatican City. They even put breakfast out an hour early for us the day we left and had prosecco in our room for our anniversary.

On Saturday, we toured the Ancient sites with ICON Tours. Can't say enough GREAT things about them. Excellent tour...it was only supposed to last 2 1/2 hours and we got a 4-hour tour with tons of extra sites. Only 25 euro/person + 9 euro for entrance to Colesseum. We ended at the Mamertime prison were Peter and Paul were kept...very moving.

We went to the Borghese Gallery and Gardens at the 9 AM reservation time on Sunday. Perfect timing, not busy at all. Did all the Rome city sites in PM. Bought wine, cheese, etc and ate late snack in front of Trevi Fountain. Really cool.

Monday we were supposed to take a Vatican/Catacombs combo tour but obviously that was cancelled. However, I must say that Enjoy Rome (tour company) did not call to let us know this and like I said, we did not know that the Pope had passed for sure until that morning. Headed to Vatcin on our own and found out the only St. Peter's was open. There were only a few hundred people there (8:30 AM). We stayed about a hour exploring inside, very moving. As we left, we walked into about a million people outside the private entrance to the Sistine Chapel. Wrong info on the public viewing times. Got in line and finally found out that they were only letting clergy/invited guests in. Tried to spread the word to as many people as we could. The police/officials were not communicating and some of these people had already been waiting in line for several hours for nothing.

Rome was amazing and we will definately be back to see what we missed but feel great about the special time in history we were there.

Will post about our other cities seperately. Enjoy to all those who are heading there soon.
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Old Apr 14th, 2005, 06:14 PM
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Welcome back! How many people were in the ICON tours? And what are the extra sites that they took you to?
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Old Apr 15th, 2005, 03:15 AM
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There were 10 of us, great size.

Funnily enough, I consider going into the Colesseum one of the extras because alot of the tour companies I contacted before we left do not take people INTO the building! They only do external tours and then you have to go back on your own to do the inside.

The Mamertine prison was another extra site. The rest was just great info he shared that, after talking to others in different tours, they did not get.

Our guide was Mike, and he just made it very fun and interesting. You almost felt like you could see the things that happened while he discribed them.
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Old Apr 15th, 2005, 03:58 AM
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welcome back!

I'm glad to hear your report on ICON tours. We tried to take that tour with Enjoy Rome, and they cancelled on us AT THE MEETING SITE! It was very annoying. We are returning to Rome this summer, so maybe we will try ICON this time.
 
Old Apr 15th, 2005, 05:08 AM
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motor_city_girl
How can I get on touch with ICON tours?
Planning a trip to Rome in June.
Thanks, WalkingWorks
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Old Apr 15th, 2005, 05:22 AM
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www.icontours.com

Their phone numbers are listed on this site too.

I would NOT recommend Enjoy Rome either, based on our experience.
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Old Apr 25th, 2005, 02:01 PM
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Message: Rome restaurants:

Lunch at Ristorante Smeraldo (via principe amedeo), GREAT artichoke antipasta and riggatoni!

Dinner - Il Gabriello (in Rick Steve's book but don't let that stop you). Make reservations!

Spent the day in Orvieto between Rome and Florence. One thing, there is no luggage storage at that train station. We finally figured this out (no one speaks Enlgish at the station) and found a hotel across the street. We paid them to keep our bags for the day.

The Duomo there is is beautiful. We did the underground Etruscan ruins tour. There are only two English tours/day but we were with only one other couple and their kids so the guide did the tour in both languages.

Lunch at I Sette Consoli is a must! One of the best meals the whole trip.

Tried to do wine "tasting" but their idea of tasting is a whole glass. The winery that Rick Steve's talks about is NOT within walking distance and they were at a festival out of town that week anyway. Some of the stores that sell wine let us taste.

It is a very beautiful and peaceful town!

In Florence, we stayed at the Residenza dei Pucci and could walk to all the majors from there. Nice place, 130,50 euro with Rick Steve's discount. Light breakfast.

I would highly recommend the Boboli Gardens for a picnic. Very romantic and great views of the city withouth climbing the steps of the Duomo. Just remember to go out through the main entrance instead of down the big hill on the side. It put us about 2 miles out of our way.

Next we went to CT and stay in Monterosso. I am very glad we stayed there and did not feel that is was touristy. Stayed at Hotel Villa Steno in a room with a view of the ocean. Great patio for drinking wine in the evening and salty air to wake you up in the morning. Beautiful gardens with lemon trees galore!

Definatley explore other towns and eat at Gambero Rosso in Vernazza...THE BEST meal of our trip. Also Alta Marea in Monterosso was wonderful. DO NOT eat at Il Moretto in Monterosso.

Finally, Venice. I had major problems with motion sickness on the trains and was not feeling well when we arrived. Couple that with the awful weather and Venice did not immediately meet my expectations. We eventually warmed up to each other and part as good friends.

Our hotel was Pensione la Calcina and it is right on the water but quiet. 175 euro with Rick's dicount. GREAT breakfast and the room was nice. They had a bottle of prosecco for our anniversary sent to the room.

We went to the gregorian mass at the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore and really enjoyed it. The Church San Marina Dei Frari was also really pretty for another "off the path" site.

Two restaurants we enjoyed were Antico Panicicio, S. Polo, 945 and Tavernetta San Maurizio, San Marco, 2619. Great prices and wonderful food. Very much "locals only" spots, not English menu but staff helpful.

It rained most of the time in Venice but out last night cleared up for a gondola ride. It was beautiful and amazing, dark and quiet, very romantic. Definatley splurge to go at night and ALONE! We finished our last evening with a concerti at Chiesa San Vidal. Amazing!



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Author: SusanP
Date: 04/14/2005, 11:49 am
Message: I'm glad you posted that info about no luggage storage at the Orvieto train station. I thought I had read here fairly recently that they did have storage there. Do you know the name of the hotel who held your luggage? How much did you pay for that? Thanks!



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Author: janemc
Date: 04/14/2005, 03:01 pm
Message: About the gondola ride... Where does it begin and end? What would one see in the daytime?



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Author: DOCK
Date: 04/14/2005, 04:11 pm
Message: Hi, we are staying at V.Steno in July 2005. What was great about Alta Marea and so awful at the other. Also we plan on driving from Monterosso to Orvieto, to overnight in Orvieto. Is that what you did and if so how was the drive.Thanks.



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Author: motor_city_girl
Date: 04/15/2005, 07:11 am
Message: The name of the hotel that stored our luggage was Hotel Europa. It is right across the street from the train station, a little to the left.

We were so flustered about this whole thing that I just walked up to the counter and said I would give her 5 euro now and 5 when we returned. At that point, we didn't care how much it cost. Pretty silly but this was our first "problem" during the trip and we really wanted to see Orvieto. They were really nice and we felt safe leaving our things there. We did have locks on our bags.

With regards to the gondola ride, there are several places to begin. You can miss them, they have big docks with the typical striped poles in the water. We caught ours just down from the Accademia Bridge. We actually never saw gondolas during the day, more towards afternoon. It would be better "people watching" not as romantic. But basically the same sights.

Now the CT restaurants...
Alta Marea had friendly staff and wonderful food. Their pesto was amazing and the calamari was awesome.

Il Moretto, no one spoke English and therefore, the waitress screwed up my order. Nothing horrible but still not exactly what I wanted. They tried to scam us into getting a WAY more expensive bottle of wine and this was really, weird...we were the ONLY two people in the restaurant! Even when we finished our meal (about 9 PM) no one else had arrived. Kind of eery.




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Author: motor_city_girl
Date: 04/16/2005, 07:18 am
Message: DOCK...we did not drive, sorry.

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Old Apr 25th, 2005, 02:02 PM
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How is everyone's planning coming along?
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Old Apr 25th, 2005, 03:08 PM
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We heard back from Icon Tours via email. (It took about 5 days, I think, but once we connected, they've been very prompt and helpful in responding.) We booked two tours for our June visit to Rome: one for St. Peter's/Vatican and one for Ancient Rome. Thanks for the tip!
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Old Apr 26th, 2005, 08:38 AM
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No problem! Will love to hear what you think about the tours.
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Old Apr 26th, 2005, 10:12 AM
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Trip planning going well. Confirmed Florence hotel yesterday and now trying to finalise Rome for our pre cruise stay.Post cruise booked at Residence Canali. Also heard from Icon Tours and plan on doing the Colesseum tour with them. I am enjoying the planning tremendously I jut hope this trip lives up to my expectations. Also trying to gat a more detailed idea of menu at Orvieto restaurant that many love to go to. With 2 kids I have to be a little careful as they will not eat anything tooo strange.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 12:58 PM
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The restaurant in Orvieto is I Sette Consoli. It has a small menu but good choices. I had a wonderful potato soup to start and chicken breast stuffed with wild mushrooms. My husband had rabbit for main course and I can't remember his first course was. We closed with warm bread and really good gorganzola. They did have a menu out front and there was a more casual place right across the street if you don't see anything your kids like.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 01:08 PM
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HI
great info,thanks
Re Residenza Cellini,can you provide more info about it--rooms, elevator or not, rates,location, etc
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 02:13 PM
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Hi motor city girl
Can you please tell me how you found out about the Gregorian mass times/days?Thanks -- glad you had a great trip. I'm leaving in less than two weeks, yay!
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 03:35 PM
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Hi Elaine!! Thanks agin for info on Paris (assuming it's NY ElaINE??)
I'll be staying at Residenza Cellini in two months. They've been great about booking, info, etc.
Their web site will answer your questions:

http://www.residenzacellini.it/eindex.htm

and if it dones't, contact them. Very helpful and patient people!
Ciao.
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Old May 2nd, 2005, 03:36 PM
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Thank for your great report, mc girl.
I am now even more looking forward to Residenza Cellini.
And MILLE GRAZIE for info on Icon.
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Old May 4th, 2005, 05:36 AM
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elaine...Residenza Cellini DOES have a "lift". We 165 euro per night with the requested Rick Steve's discount. I believe they only have six rooms. It is more like a B&B. We could walk to everything except Vatican City.

annabelle2...we found out about the mass from Rick Steve's book. It is at 11 AM on Sundays.
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Old May 4th, 2005, 10:00 AM
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Thanks for your reply...will not be there on a Sunday, so will keep this in mind for a future trip (or maybe I can catch a rehearsal...)
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Old May 20th, 2005, 08:51 AM
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Motorcity Girl- How long did it take for ICON Tours to confirm your reservation? I paid by PayPal on 5/4 and only have recieved a autoreply that they got my email and payment, but no email on the actual confirmed details. I've sent two seperate emails with again an autoreply that they'll respond within "48 hours". I noticed two days again before my most recent email that the information they watned in the notes section of PayPayl I put it in a email directly to them and have repeatedly tried calling the Italian number with no luck. It first takes a couple of tries for the line to connect for the automated systemt o say that the operator is not available, eventhough it's within the hours they are supposed to be open. Any advice?
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Old May 20th, 2005, 01:21 PM
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Try this number...39 334 33 0927
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