Italy and Switzerland--September/October 2013
Oct 6th, 2013, 12:03 PM
#21
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From Portofino you buy the tickets to SF. You buy the tickets to Camoglie in SF (different boat line - about a 30 second walk to that dock from the first once there) so I would recommend checking to be sure both are running before leaving Portofino, unless of course you will go to SF anyway. Ferries to SF leave every hour. There's a really good gelato place by that dock - the melon tasted like the best and freshest canteloupe I've ever eaten! The raspberry had a few seeds in it and the dark chocolate was excellent too. It's a short walk to the train station in Camoglie to go back.
Oct 7th, 2013, 10:45 PM
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Sun watch-Day 12. Left Lake Garda in pouring rain. Rain or overcast/fog each day on Lake Garda. Rained during whole day trip to Verona. Rumors of sun when we get to Tuscany.
Lake Garda--Bardolino was very nice. Worth a future visit. Our B and B was just average. Probably stay somewhere next time. It did have a nice view of the Lake, but hard to actually see it due to conditions. We enjoyed the experience of the wine festival. Ate at Don Pedro based on TA reviews and local suggestion. Very good seafood. Spaghetti vongole and mixed grilled fish. All great. Garda apparently is slammed in the summer, but was very quiet when we were there other the the wine festival along the waterfront. Also visited Sirmione, located on a tiny peninsula out from the southern end of the lake. A touristy busy town, even midweek. Nice old medieval castle and village. Ate lunch at Osteria al Torcol. Its high TA ranking is well deserved. Great food. Nice staff. Asked 3 different shopkeepers how to get there and all three said we were headed to a good restaurant. They were right. On a side street away from the mass of tourists.
Verona--
Only had time for a day trip. Could easily spend a few days here. A city centro that is a mixed personality. Part magnificent Roman ruins from 2000 years ago. Incredible preserved arena that has active concert schedule. Typical old medieval buildings and churches from 400 years ago. Neoclassical buildings from the 1800s, and then unfortunately lots of cars. Only drawback we saw. Had another great lunch at an old traditional trattoria--La Taverna Della Stella. Lamb chops, spinach, polenta with bacon and Parmesan, salad. Busy noisy fun place which ran the gamut of people from Italians with their children to a variety of tourists. Apparently Veronese cuisine includes horse meat and donkey meat. Many items prominent on the menu, but we decided to pass on them. Enjoyed walking around the town, even in the cold rain. Planned to have a quick early dinner before heading back to Garda. Walked down a likely side street full of out door tables and ran into La Pagoda. A Chinese restaurant. After 20 Italian lunches and dinners in a row (other than the McDonald's stop), we tried it out. Great food. Real Peking duck with pancakes, duck sauce, slivered scallions etc. Rest of food equally good. Nice attentive staff from manager on down. All Chinese staff, waitresses in traditional Asian dresses. A nice change of pace.
On to Tuscany. Our favorite place.
Lake Garda--Bardolino was very nice. Worth a future visit. Our B and B was just average. Probably stay somewhere next time. It did have a nice view of the Lake, but hard to actually see it due to conditions. We enjoyed the experience of the wine festival. Ate at Don Pedro based on TA reviews and local suggestion. Very good seafood. Spaghetti vongole and mixed grilled fish. All great. Garda apparently is slammed in the summer, but was very quiet when we were there other the the wine festival along the waterfront. Also visited Sirmione, located on a tiny peninsula out from the southern end of the lake. A touristy busy town, even midweek. Nice old medieval castle and village. Ate lunch at Osteria al Torcol. Its high TA ranking is well deserved. Great food. Nice staff. Asked 3 different shopkeepers how to get there and all three said we were headed to a good restaurant. They were right. On a side street away from the mass of tourists.
Verona--
Only had time for a day trip. Could easily spend a few days here. A city centro that is a mixed personality. Part magnificent Roman ruins from 2000 years ago. Incredible preserved arena that has active concert schedule. Typical old medieval buildings and churches from 400 years ago. Neoclassical buildings from the 1800s, and then unfortunately lots of cars. Only drawback we saw. Had another great lunch at an old traditional trattoria--La Taverna Della Stella. Lamb chops, spinach, polenta with bacon and Parmesan, salad. Busy noisy fun place which ran the gamut of people from Italians with their children to a variety of tourists. Apparently Veronese cuisine includes horse meat and donkey meat. Many items prominent on the menu, but we decided to pass on them. Enjoyed walking around the town, even in the cold rain. Planned to have a quick early dinner before heading back to Garda. Walked down a likely side street full of out door tables and ran into La Pagoda. A Chinese restaurant. After 20 Italian lunches and dinners in a row (other than the McDonald's stop), we tried it out. Great food. Real Peking duck with pancakes, duck sauce, slivered scallions etc. Rest of food equally good. Nice attentive staff from manager on down. All Chinese staff, waitresses in traditional Asian dresses. A nice change of pace.
On to Tuscany. Our favorite place.
Oct 8th, 2013, 04:43 PM
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Hi Skip and BA,
Great fun following along with you using Google Earth and your wonderful commentary. Absolutely charming villages and towns and beautiful vistas.
With a street address for your next stop we could join you in your garden or at a near by café via Google Earth. Be safe!
Fall has arrived here, nice.
A&P
Great fun following along with you using Google Earth and your wonderful commentary. Absolutely charming villages and towns and beautiful vistas.
With a street address for your next stop we could join you in your garden or at a near by café via Google Earth. Be safe!
Fall has arrived here, nice.
A&P
Oct 9th, 2013, 10:14 PM
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Thanks Andy. Weather has gotten better. Food and wine always good. Tuscan hills are hard to beat.
Going to Siena today for lunch and a visit to the Duomo. Our favorite church in Italy. Then on the Montalcino for 4 days.
Going to Siena today for lunch and a visit to the Duomo. Our favorite church in Italy. Then on the Montalcino for 4 days.
Oct 9th, 2013, 10:17 PM
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Tower--on our way to Siena. Thanks for the reminder of the Porto Romano for parking. We discovered it by accident about 10 years. I agree it is the place to park for an easy, flat walk into Siena.
Oct 11th, 2013, 01:03 AM
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Sun Watch Day 16. Put a fork in it. It's done. The sun came out literally as we crossed into Tuscany. Had great, mostly sunny 4 days here.Thanks again for suggestions.
Sasso Marconi--a little town that tourists don't visit and probably never mentioned on this blog. We stopped only because it was an exit on the autostrada halfway between Lake Garda and Tuscany. And it had a well rated little restaurant--Osteria dei Sani. Had Sunday lunch in packed place with Italian families. Not sure they had ever seen tourists before. No English spoken. My noodles with truffles were great. My wife's veal with mushrooms better. Great food at cheap prices. A little worried about having a little wine and beer for lunch while driving until we realized the uniformed policemen seated next to us were also having wine with lunch. Gotta love Italy.
Chianti--We stayed 4 nights at a small B and B about 3 miles up a dirt road above Greve--Le Cetinelle. First time we stayed there. Won't be our last. So good it gets a separate writeup. Visited Greve, Radda, Panzano, San Donato, Barberino, Tavernelle, Castellini, Volpaia, and numerous small villages. Views while driving remain some of the best, if not the best in Italy. Visited Castello D'Abola and Casa Sola for wine tours and tasting. Had some great meals including two of our favorite places where we try to eat on each visit to Chianti--(1)La Toppa in San Donato. Luigi and his father are great cooks and better hosts. You feel like you are eating in their house. Great fresh pastas, perfectly cooked meats. Best thing on the menu is onion soup. Their house bottled Chianti is excellent. Never seen a printed menu. Luigi just tells what he has made for the day. He was kind enough at the end of the meal to not only give us a discount as a returning customer, but a bottle of their La Toppa wine; and (2) Ristoro Lamole is even better. Filippo is the owner and grand marshall of the dining floor. Charming, funny gentleman who loves his job and takes time to talk to everyone. Restaurant full with a mix of tourists and wine producers. Onion flan with truffles, pear and ricotta ravioli, guinea fowl in an apricot sauce, fennel au gratin. Easy to understand their top rating with TA. (Also by chance had a cooking class at our B and B with his beautiful wife Kalinka.) Lamole is 5 miles up a secondary road from Greve. Beautiful drive. The restaurant faces west for magnificent sunsets.
Other good restaurants in Greve included La Cantina for pizza, Enoteca Fiorpiazza (and its fun manager Luca) and Verrazano. In Panzano we ate at new restaurant--Cantinetta Sassolini. Very good. Panzano has 2 larger than life characters--Dario the butcher near the main road and Stefano the wine professor located in the old town near the church. No stop in Panzano is complete without a visit to both. As usual the Chianti Classico Riserva wines were great.
Only disappointment was a long planned visit to American cemetery just outside Florence. Both my wife's parents served in Italy from the landings at Salerno to the end of the war and were married just before the end of the war in Naples. 10 years ago we visited the cemetery in Anzio and it was a moving experience. This time we pulled up and the gates were locked. Sign said "closed due to government shutdown". Turned out to be our government not the Italians. Another place to add for the next trip.
Sasso Marconi--a little town that tourists don't visit and probably never mentioned on this blog. We stopped only because it was an exit on the autostrada halfway between Lake Garda and Tuscany. And it had a well rated little restaurant--Osteria dei Sani. Had Sunday lunch in packed place with Italian families. Not sure they had ever seen tourists before. No English spoken. My noodles with truffles were great. My wife's veal with mushrooms better. Great food at cheap prices. A little worried about having a little wine and beer for lunch while driving until we realized the uniformed policemen seated next to us were also having wine with lunch. Gotta love Italy.
Chianti--We stayed 4 nights at a small B and B about 3 miles up a dirt road above Greve--Le Cetinelle. First time we stayed there. Won't be our last. So good it gets a separate writeup. Visited Greve, Radda, Panzano, San Donato, Barberino, Tavernelle, Castellini, Volpaia, and numerous small villages. Views while driving remain some of the best, if not the best in Italy. Visited Castello D'Abola and Casa Sola for wine tours and tasting. Had some great meals including two of our favorite places where we try to eat on each visit to Chianti--(1)La Toppa in San Donato. Luigi and his father are great cooks and better hosts. You feel like you are eating in their house. Great fresh pastas, perfectly cooked meats. Best thing on the menu is onion soup. Their house bottled Chianti is excellent. Never seen a printed menu. Luigi just tells what he has made for the day. He was kind enough at the end of the meal to not only give us a discount as a returning customer, but a bottle of their La Toppa wine; and (2) Ristoro Lamole is even better. Filippo is the owner and grand marshall of the dining floor. Charming, funny gentleman who loves his job and takes time to talk to everyone. Restaurant full with a mix of tourists and wine producers. Onion flan with truffles, pear and ricotta ravioli, guinea fowl in an apricot sauce, fennel au gratin. Easy to understand their top rating with TA. (Also by chance had a cooking class at our B and B with his beautiful wife Kalinka.) Lamole is 5 miles up a secondary road from Greve. Beautiful drive. The restaurant faces west for magnificent sunsets.
Other good restaurants in Greve included La Cantina for pizza, Enoteca Fiorpiazza (and its fun manager Luca) and Verrazano. In Panzano we ate at new restaurant--Cantinetta Sassolini. Very good. Panzano has 2 larger than life characters--Dario the butcher near the main road and Stefano the wine professor located in the old town near the church. No stop in Panzano is complete without a visit to both. As usual the Chianti Classico Riserva wines were great.
Only disappointment was a long planned visit to American cemetery just outside Florence. Both my wife's parents served in Italy from the landings at Salerno to the end of the war and were married just before the end of the war in Naples. 10 years ago we visited the cemetery in Anzio and it was a moving experience. This time we pulled up and the gates were locked. Sign said "closed due to government shutdown". Turned out to be our government not the Italians. Another place to add for the next trip.
Oct 13th, 2013, 09:12 PM
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Siena--maybe our favorite city to visit in Italy. Only city we have visited on each trip to Italy. The main piazza is one of the great meeting and people watching places. We always have lunch at La Costa and always eat pizza. Even for a touristy place, they have good pizza.
But the main site the brings us back each year is the Duomo. Spectacular church. Hours to do it minimal justice. Probably our favorite church in Italy.
After our day stop it is on to Montalcino.
But the main site the brings us back each year is the Duomo. Spectacular church. Hours to do it minimal justice. Probably our favorite church in Italy.
After our day stop it is on to Montalcino.
Oct 29th, 2013, 10:00 AM
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Montalcino--4 days and nights in our favorite Tuscan hill town. Stopped at a couple vineyards for tastings-Barbi and Banfi. Had great lunches outside of Montalcino at Taverna Barbi, Il Leccio in San Angelo in Colle and La Porta in a little hill town below Pienza. We think these 3 restaurants are great. Visited many little hill towns and Montepulciano. Had not been to MP in about 8 years so decided to give it a real visit. Still underwhelmed. Just don't see in it what we see in Montalcino. Nothing more fun in Montalcino than sitting outside at one of the two bars on the main street and watching the citizens on their nightly walk thru the town. Visited a couple enotecas to see if they could ship our friend Bob, the 6 liter bottle of Bella Vista, back to the states for us. Tomas at the Fortezza was happy to do it and gave us a great price for shipping after we also bought some Brunello to send home. Stayed at Hotel dei Capitani. They provided us a great repeat visitor rate. In town with easy to access driving and free parking. Nice helpful staff. Short 5 minute walk to the center of town. Found a great inexpensive laundry to get clothes done. They even delivered the clothes to the hotel.
Ate at two favorites--Grappolo Blu and Re Mecchia. Tried a new place one night as favorites were closed--San Giorgio. Very good and very inexpensive, like ossobuco for 8E. Weather even cooperated.
Only problem we had was not spending more time here. More than 4 nights next time as it is a great location for visiting all of Southern Tuscany.
Ate at two favorites--Grappolo Blu and Re Mecchia. Tried a new place one night as favorites were closed--San Giorgio. Very good and very inexpensive, like ossobuco for 8E. Weather even cooperated.
Only problem we had was not spending more time here. More than 4 nights next time as it is a great location for visiting all of Southern Tuscany.
Oct 29th, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Backtracking to Greve, have to give a special shout out to our B and B in Greve--Le Centinelle. Best B & B experience in 15 years of traveling to Italy. It is 5 kilometers up an unpaved road from the center of Greve. Beautiful refurbished farmhouse with 5 or 6 rooms and an apartment. Vistas of the hills of Chianti and Florence in the distance. Run by a wonderful woman Simonetta and her husband Luca. Nice clean large rooms and bathrooms. Central area for good breakfasts with fresh eggs, drinks at cocktail hour/sunset including their wines and also dinner when cooking class has been in session. She was helpful on things to see and places to eat in Chianti, especially places we knew nothing about after 15 years of driving around the area. We meet some great folks from Canada and Austria while there.
Had a cooking class with Simonetta and her friend Kalinka. Not very expensive, fun and good food that we ate that night for dinner--bruschetta, ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta and a butter and sage sauce, chicken ciaccotore with vegetables and panna cotta with chocolate sauce. 3 hours to cook and 3 hours to eat.
This place is great and it is very inexpensive (half of what we had been paying and twice the fun).
Had a cooking class with Simonetta and her friend Kalinka. Not very expensive, fun and good food that we ate that night for dinner--bruschetta, ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta and a butter and sage sauce, chicken ciaccotore with vegetables and panna cotta with chocolate sauce. 3 hours to cook and 3 hours to eat.
This place is great and it is very inexpensive (half of what we had been paying and twice the fun).
Oct 29th, 2013, 10:31 AM
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Avignonesi--having sampled Brunellos on wine tours around Montalcino and Chianti Classico around Chianti in the past, decided to find a vineyard on our drive from Montalcino to Cortona to sample Vino Nobile di Montepulcino this trip. We had tried this large producer's wine in the past and discovered their tasting location, a Palazzo east of Montepulciano was directly on the way to Cortona and they had a tour and lunch option. It was GREAT. Way beyond expectations. A detailed over an hour long tour with a wonderful guide followed by a 4 course, 9 wine tasting 3 hour lunch. The lunch was served on an outdoor patio, beautiful views, gracious attentive service. Gourmet food beautifully presented to a small group--maybe 20. Wines were excellent and included 2 proseccos, a Chardonnay, their Nobile, 2 IGT blends, one Supertuscan and two incredible 10 year old Vin Santos. Definitely give this tour and lunch a try if you are in the area. Actually a little closer to Cortona than MP.
Jan 17th, 2014, 05:25 PM
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Oops. Ran out of energy last October and forgot to finish the rest of the trip. Reports on Cortona, Assisi, Rapallo, Portofino,, Lake Maggiore, Cannobio and last day in Switzerland coming up.
Jan 17th, 2014, 05:49 PM
#36
At Zurich airport we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express. We tend not to stay at chain hotels and but chose it because it offers a free shuttle to the airport and the price was right. We were pleasantly surprised. Although like most airport hotels there was nothing of interest around, the room was modern and clean, the dinner we bought at the HI was tasty and not a rip off and the included breakfast was very good. The shuttle worked very well for us. We checked into the hotel, made a shuttle reservation for the next morning and then returned the rental car to the airport, taking the free shuttle back to the hotel. Next morning bright and early we shuttled to the airport without the hassle of returning the car when in a time crunch.
Sep 2nd, 2014, 03:57 AM
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Getting ready for our October 2014 Italy trip in 5 weeks and realized, again, that didn't finish 2013 report. Procrastination may be my middle name!
Cortona---
After a monumental meal at Avignonsei, see above, we arrived in Cortona, another great hill town. We stay at the Hotel San Michele. Nice place, good rates, in very center of town. You can drive right to it and they take car of your car! In addition to some superior churches and great restaurants, one of the things we really enjoy in Cortona is the evening stroll thru town by the residents. Young and old, couples and families. Grab a seat at an outside table at one of the bars in the main square and watch the people go by. Our main reason for Cortona this trip was as a nightly base for 2 side trips. One day we spent in Assisi, another favorite. One of the most rewarding spiritual places to visit. The story of St. Francis and Sister Claire is amazing. Their churches are very impressive. Much fancier than either would probably have liked. Lunch at Taverna dei Consoli. Excellent pasta with sausage and truffle cream sauce. We also made a side trip on way back to See St Francis' little first church-Porziuncola--below Assisi. This tiny church is still intact but has a massive basicila built around it--Basilica of Santa Maria devil Angeli. Worth a visit if you are going to Assisi. Other day trip was to visit Podere Calzone in Umbria near Todi. Umbria is beautiful and this totally renovated farmhouse is now a beautiful villa that some friends own. We toured the property and vineyards, sampled the wine and enjoyed a great 3 course lunch prepared by their cook. Thanks Laura and Jim. If you want a luxury rental in the rolling hills of Umbria. Stay here.
Our dinner plans for 3 nights in Cortona got changed due to the long day trips. Places we planned to eat like Osteria de Teatro, a favorite, were unavailable. We did have two really good meals at new places--Nessan Dorma near the Teatro and Locanda al Pozzo Antico near the hotel. Neither was on our radar screen as places to eat, but both are worth a return visit.
This ended our trip to our favorite area of Italy--Tuscany. Now we had to make our way back up to Zurich to drop our car off. Staying at new places for us, Rapallo and Lake Maggiore, on the way.
Cortona---
After a monumental meal at Avignonsei, see above, we arrived in Cortona, another great hill town. We stay at the Hotel San Michele. Nice place, good rates, in very center of town. You can drive right to it and they take car of your car! In addition to some superior churches and great restaurants, one of the things we really enjoy in Cortona is the evening stroll thru town by the residents. Young and old, couples and families. Grab a seat at an outside table at one of the bars in the main square and watch the people go by. Our main reason for Cortona this trip was as a nightly base for 2 side trips. One day we spent in Assisi, another favorite. One of the most rewarding spiritual places to visit. The story of St. Francis and Sister Claire is amazing. Their churches are very impressive. Much fancier than either would probably have liked. Lunch at Taverna dei Consoli. Excellent pasta with sausage and truffle cream sauce. We also made a side trip on way back to See St Francis' little first church-Porziuncola--below Assisi. This tiny church is still intact but has a massive basicila built around it--Basilica of Santa Maria devil Angeli. Worth a visit if you are going to Assisi. Other day trip was to visit Podere Calzone in Umbria near Todi. Umbria is beautiful and this totally renovated farmhouse is now a beautiful villa that some friends own. We toured the property and vineyards, sampled the wine and enjoyed a great 3 course lunch prepared by their cook. Thanks Laura and Jim. If you want a luxury rental in the rolling hills of Umbria. Stay here.
Our dinner plans for 3 nights in Cortona got changed due to the long day trips. Places we planned to eat like Osteria de Teatro, a favorite, were unavailable. We did have two really good meals at new places--Nessan Dorma near the Teatro and Locanda al Pozzo Antico near the hotel. Neither was on our radar screen as places to eat, but both are worth a return visit.
This ended our trip to our favorite area of Italy--Tuscany. Now we had to make our way back up to Zurich to drop our car off. Staying at new places for us, Rapallo and Lake Maggiore, on the way.
Sep 2nd, 2014, 07:03 AM
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Rapallo/Portofino--
Just a quick 2 night stop. Halfway between the Lakes and Tuscany. We thought the drive along the coast to get there would be more scenic. Unfortunately tunnels abound in Italy. Rapallo must have been great resort 80 or 100 years ago. The old hotels and promenade along the water are great, but it is very dated. A block or two back and the scenery gets worse. A few churches to see there. Intricate lace work sold here. Apparently at one time 8,000 women were working hand stitching lace here. The waterfront view from our small hotel, Astoria was why we stayed here. It was great. Seafood dinner a few blocks away at Ristorante Elite was equally good. A few tourists, like us, eating early and then it filled up with locals.
Our plan was to ferry to Portofino and then, thanks to suggestion of many Fodorites, continue on to San Fruttosa and end up in Camogli. But the ferry had limited service that day and we had to settle for just Portofino. Nice ride and spectacular harbor once there. Had another great seafood meal at Ristorante Stella on the waterfront. Fairly reasonable for pricey Portofino. Glad we stopped here for two days, but would probably try a less populated area next time we feel the need to stop along this part of the coast.
Just a quick 2 night stop. Halfway between the Lakes and Tuscany. We thought the drive along the coast to get there would be more scenic. Unfortunately tunnels abound in Italy. Rapallo must have been great resort 80 or 100 years ago. The old hotels and promenade along the water are great, but it is very dated. A block or two back and the scenery gets worse. A few churches to see there. Intricate lace work sold here. Apparently at one time 8,000 women were working hand stitching lace here. The waterfront view from our small hotel, Astoria was why we stayed here. It was great. Seafood dinner a few blocks away at Ristorante Elite was equally good. A few tourists, like us, eating early and then it filled up with locals.
Our plan was to ferry to Portofino and then, thanks to suggestion of many Fodorites, continue on to San Fruttosa and end up in Camogli. But the ferry had limited service that day and we had to settle for just Portofino. Nice ride and spectacular harbor once there. Had another great seafood meal at Ristorante Stella on the waterfront. Fairly reasonable for pricey Portofino. Glad we stopped here for two days, but would probably try a less populated area next time we feel the need to stop along this part of the coast.
Sep 29th, 2014, 06:19 AM
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Lake Maggiore--
Cannobio. Our last stop in Italy. Just saying the name 11 months later brings a smile to our faces. Definitely the best new place we visited on this trip. Charming village on the western shore. Quiet except for a fun Sunday market. We roamed the streets and used the town for a base for sightseeing. Hotel Cannobio is right on the water and our lake view room was large and comfortable. Tremendously helpful staff. All of their recommendations were spot on. The breakfast, included, was more typical of a buffet breakfast you have to pay for. Typical but more of it plus eggs and Prosecco. Blood orange mimosas are a good way to start the day.
We had good meals along the waterfront especially Villa Maria. Enjoyed the little Bar Porto for drinks before dinner. Also went up into the woods for lunch at Grotto Sant Anna. Beautiful setting amid waterfalls with excellent restaurant.
Borromean Islands. The real treat of the lake. The Borromeans were the big deals around here hundreds of years ago. They apparently wanted a palace on every little island. Two palazzos on two islands (Madre and Bella)'with large gardens. Little fisherman's island in between for lunch or dinner. We had a very nice meal at Trattoria Imbarcardero. Easy ferry system between the islands and various towns along the lake.
We liked this area so much, it will be the start of our trip for 2014.
Things on the list for next time include Villa Taranto in Verbenia, Cannero Riviera, Val Cannobia and perhaps renting a boat. We like this lake the best of the six we have visited over the last few years!
Cannobio. Our last stop in Italy. Just saying the name 11 months later brings a smile to our faces. Definitely the best new place we visited on this trip. Charming village on the western shore. Quiet except for a fun Sunday market. We roamed the streets and used the town for a base for sightseeing. Hotel Cannobio is right on the water and our lake view room was large and comfortable. Tremendously helpful staff. All of their recommendations were spot on. The breakfast, included, was more typical of a buffet breakfast you have to pay for. Typical but more of it plus eggs and Prosecco. Blood orange mimosas are a good way to start the day.
We had good meals along the waterfront especially Villa Maria. Enjoyed the little Bar Porto for drinks before dinner. Also went up into the woods for lunch at Grotto Sant Anna. Beautiful setting amid waterfalls with excellent restaurant.
Borromean Islands. The real treat of the lake. The Borromeans were the big deals around here hundreds of years ago. They apparently wanted a palace on every little island. Two palazzos on two islands (Madre and Bella)'with large gardens. Little fisherman's island in between for lunch or dinner. We had a very nice meal at Trattoria Imbarcardero. Easy ferry system between the islands and various towns along the lake.
We liked this area so much, it will be the start of our trip for 2014.
Things on the list for next time include Villa Taranto in Verbenia, Cannero Riviera, Val Cannobia and perhaps renting a boat. We like this lake the best of the six we have visited over the last few years!
Sep 29th, 2014, 06:23 AM
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Zurich
Ended the trip at the airport staying at the Hilton with award point. Nice busy business hotel. The real find was a place to eat a few minutes away in Glattburgg. Scheuwan Chinese restaurant. Very nice Chinese family , speak English run it. The real McCoy for Asian food. Great change after 27 days of Italian lunches and dinners. If staying by airport or just have a long layover, it is worth a visit.
Ended the trip at the airport staying at the Hilton with award point. Nice busy business hotel. The real find was a place to eat a few minutes away in Glattburgg. Scheuwan Chinese restaurant. Very nice Chinese family , speak English run it. The real McCoy for Asian food. Great change after 27 days of Italian lunches and dinners. If staying by airport or just have a long layover, it is worth a visit.
