Italian Riviera
Sep 23rd, 1999, 11:44 AM
#3
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It depends on what you expect. Personally, I found it to be charming and relaxing. Not much in the museum type tourism, but charming. The hikes between the towns of the Cinque Terre are not what I expected from Rick Steves video, but I enjoyed the day's outing. I thoroughly enjoyed staying in Santa Margherita.
Sep 23rd, 1999, 04:24 PM
#6
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I'm afraid I created a bit of controversy on the AOL traveler board about this, so I hope I don't do the same here. Please, folks, remember that this is just one person's opinion. <BR> <BR>When I saw Rick's video of the Cinque Terre I knew I had to go there. At this point, a lot of people had been feeling the same way, and it was well populated with tourists. That does not mean you should not go there. The people do not detract from the scenery, at least not in my opinion. This was two years ago, and I'm stretching my memory. We took the train to the town farthest south and walked north. Walking from the first town to the second was not difficult, although there were lots of stairs (but then, this is Italy and there are stairs everywhere). The walk from the 2nd town to the 3rd was more difficult. I had read on one of the boards that there was a "high" road and a "low" road, and the easier of the two was the "high" road, so we took it. High meant just that, high. We did a lot of climbing. That was okay, but half way between I felt the path was dangerous. In America there probably would have been handrails, which would have made it safer, but would have detracted from the experience. Anyway, at one corner I got cold feet and it took some nerve for me to proceed. My friend felt the same way. You cannot slip at parts of the path. It's not a question of falling a short distance. If you fall at certain parts, your gone. Anyway, we took the train from the 3rd town to the 4th, Vernazza, where we had a pleasant lunch, wandered around looking at the people, the boats, the cafes with brightly colored umbrellas, and enjoyed the time there. We skipped the 5th town. The bottom line is that I felt this was more difficult than Rick Steves made it out to be. From the video it looked like a leisurely stroll. I was glad I had on good, sturdy shoes. I'll mention, too, that I'm middle-aged and not in the best condition. Overall, I'm glad I went and would highly recommend the trip.
Sep 24th, 1999, 07:20 AM
#7
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Lil, The term "Italian riviera" needs to <BR>be defined. The Ligurian coast runs for <BR>about 300 miles and all of it could be <BR>termed riviera. I see it in 3 segments <BR>and all 3 are much different. The part <BR>west of Genoa to San Remo is primarily <BR>beach resorts. From Genoa south for about about 30 miles includes the more <BR>up-scale resort towns of Portofino, Santa Margherita, Rapallo and Sestri. The rugged more natural coastline then <BR>runs from about Moneglia south to Portovenere and includes the Cinque Terre. My point is not to confuse these <BR>regions--each has their own charms but <BR>are certainly unique. I prefer the latter. You asked about Portofino but <BR>many of the responses are about hiking <BR>in the Cinque Terre---these are different worlds, but both are worth your time. I hope you enjoy your stay.
Sep 24th, 1999, 06:24 PM
#9
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I know I've responded to other posts about this area, so do a search on Santa Margherita or Portofino. <BR> <BR>In my journal I made a note that Portofino was the Newport Beach of the area, and that S.M. was the Laguna Beach. For those who know Calif., you'll know what I mean. There was not much to do in Portofino that I could see. There were some cafes and shops; some boats in the harbor. Had some fantastic bread from a bakery across from the Information office. We climbed up to the Castello (Castle) Brown, which was used in the film "Enchanted April". I couldn't tell, but it appeared that it was filmed from the outside only. Would anyone like to expand on that? The climb up was worth it for the incredible view. I've got a great photo of the harbor on my web page: http://www.bishtech.com/diane <BR>We were staying in S.M. If you do, I recommend you take the boat to Portofino for the view coming into the harbor, and take the bus back for a completely different perspective. Both are inexpensive. <BR> <BR>We thoroughly enjoyed S.M. There was a flea market in the town center one day; we wander through the shops which seemed to be more for the locals than for tourists. A man in a pasta shop posed for a photo while he made raviolis. S.M. was convenient for day trips. The best restaurant during our two week trip was in this town. It's called Da Baicin, and was recommended by several people on another travel board. It was two years ago, but I can still taste the ravioli in nut sauce. The restaurant was pleasant and reasonably priced. I don't know if all this information will help anyone, but I hope so.
Sep 24th, 1999, 08:15 PM
#10
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Diane, <BR>Yes it does, if only to find out at last where my favourite movie was filmed. Is the castle rented out or a private residence? <BR> <BR>I can only find it on this website: <BR>http://genet.underglobe.com/portofino_brown.htm <BR>If anyone could translate that for me, I'd be grateful. <BR>
Sep 24th, 1999, 10:31 PM
#11
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April: The house is open to the public for a small fee. I doubt the interior was used in the film as there was nothing to indicate that, but the view from up there was breathtaking. The interior of the house was rather drab and the gardens somewhat neglected. Still, it was worth the climb up.
Sep 26th, 1999, 03:06 AM
#13
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As someone else wrote, Liguria, the Italian region with the famous Riviera, is roughly divided in two sections: 1) Levante, where Portofino and Cinque Terre can be found 2) Ponente, the western part towards the French coast. I experienced both, and must say that I prefer the latter (on the contrary of others in the Forum). The environment is unspoilt, the landscape panoramic, the people very friendly, the food superb. Above all, the balsamic air is somehow unique, with flowers' scent. I passed days and days with my wife having strolls just to look at colours, flowers, butterflies, tiny medieval castles, and the sensous seacoast. <BR>Last time I visited I rented a lovely home through an internet rental company. You can find the description and photos of the home I rented at: <BR>http://www.romanhomes.com/riviera.htm <BR> <BR>I was leery that the home was not so nice like in photos, but it really was, and the price was all included as they said. They we all also very corteous. <BR>We just had a great time, and I am eagerly thinking about returning. Last and not least, they gave us advice on a place that the proprietress boasted as the best Pizza restaurant in Italy. Well, in 10 trips to Italy also dedicated to this matter, even this tip was true, and I wish I had such a "Pizzeria" back home.
Feb 27th, 2001, 12:53 PM
#15
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Mmmm. Spring and summer tourist season arriving. References to Dr. Abate's web site scattered throughout the forum (and now he's down in Liguria), old posts worm themselves up top to include reference to romanhomes, emails from supposed "newbies," written in broken English. Coincidence? I think not. <BR> <BR>Caveat emptor.
