It was all fun + games 'til the food poisoning....
Jul 14th, 2011, 08:38 AM
#21
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 344
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
SwimChick...are you concerned about how eagerly everyone is anticipating your food poisoning? Hope you never meet a Fodorite in a dark alley IRL ;-)
Thanks for all the info on the houseboat. Like others, I've never been more intrigued by Amsterdam than after reading your report thus far, regardless of the impending food poisoning!
Thanks for all the info on the houseboat. Like others, I've never been more intrigued by Amsterdam than after reading your report thus far, regardless of the impending food poisoning!
Jul 14th, 2011, 11:04 AM
#23
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 9,705
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So glad you enjoyed Vondelparc , our hotel breakfast room opened right out into it and it was a daily pleasure to have breakfast while enjoying the greenery. The house boat sounds like fun but my 6'6" husband would probably knock himself out early on!
Jul 14th, 2011, 12:01 PM
#24
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's now Wednesday and we are leaving Amsterdam. We slept well, started stirring a bit before 7am. We have adjusted to the new time zone incredibly well. In the past we have gone through great gyrations pre-trip to acclimate to the time change. We've tried the "Jet Lag Diet" (once)and always a week or ten days out we'll start getting up and going to bed earlier until we are accustomed to getting up at 4am EST, in an effort to at least come to a compromise with the time change. (This involves telling friends and family NOT to call the house, leaving work early, turning down invites, etc). This trip it wasn't possible, we made a feeble attempt by getting up at 4:30am for about five days prior to departing. Since arriving we have been getting up and going to bed at our "usual" times, Amsterdam time, like there wasn't even a time change.
Ok, so we're feeling great and get ourselves packed leisurely as we have an 11:16am Thalys train reservation. We have been on these trains previously, both 1st Class and 2nd Class, of which there was little difference in our eyes, beyond the small snack offered in 1st Class. Boy, have things changed. THIS 1st Class is very nice. Our roll-on's fit right above our seats, they fed us two decent meals (the second one a vegetarian plate with a cold pesto salad, marinated tomato wedges, fresh mozzarella balls, olives, yellow peppers, and - voila - cream puffs with chocolate sauce). Feeling relaxed and happy. I could stay on this train all day.
Our destination is Auvers sur Oise, which is the village where Van Gogh spent his last days and is buried, about an hour and a half NW of Paris.
We pulled into Paris Gare Nord, could feel my heart thudding, got a little teary, I AM IN PARIS, albeit only briefly today. Got on the Metro going in the wrong direction, when we realized our error we popped off the Metro, I looked up, and there was the Eiffel Tower it all its Parisian glory. I felt like I was in a movie.
(Our Thalys train tickets as well as our Paris Visite Pass, which allows us unlimited travel on the Metro, have been purchased online and sent to our home prior to our trip, at www.raileurope.com. It is one of the best things that we have learned to do. We aren't waiting to (try to) talk to someone about purchasing tickets. We aren't seeking out the kiosk with the shortest line. We're on the go - maybe not always in the right direction - but we're on the go).
We get off at the Pontoise station, there is a bus to catch to Auvers. DH is not a big bus guy. Loves trains, hates buses. So when we spot the taxi, we are in it in record time.
Short ride to our accomodations for the evening, Hostellerie du Nord (www.hostelleriedunord.fr). We then set out to Chateau d'Auver (www.chateau-auvers.fr) for a multi media presentation of the lives of the Impressionists. (It may sound cheesy, however it truly isn't). The only complaint we had was we had English audio headsets, however the French version coming over the P.A. system was so loud we had to keep our hands pressed over our ears in an attempt to hear).
Back to the hotel for our 20:00 reservation at their highly esteemed restaurant Joel Boilleaut. (Ok, so I am not sure where I am getting "highly esteemed" from, however that is the impression I had).
Beautiful room overlooking a beautiful terrace (just a little bit too chilly to eat outside. The restaurant was full, a nice low-key energy, service superb. I started with champagne (when in France...), DH had a Pastis, the amuse bouche could not of been any more petite - one was a blini with smoked salmon, I don't remember what else, the other was a piece of sausage with something on top of it - they were like miniature works of art, with intense wonderful flavors in these little bites. We like tasting menus, so that is what we both had, ordered wine. Began with a salade w/ asparagus and lobster, followed by aspargus soupe. Our fish course was monkfish (I hadn't had monkfish in so long, it was so good), veal, with an artichoke half. Then they brought the cheese trolley around. Ahhhhh. It was like I died and went to heaven. I selected six frommage. More than maybe is polite...however I couldn't stop myself. Enjoyed every morsel. Trio of sherbets in mini cream puffs, with flavors that just burst in your mouth, and petite madeleines and macaroons. Life is good. Life is SO good.
Ok, so we're feeling great and get ourselves packed leisurely as we have an 11:16am Thalys train reservation. We have been on these trains previously, both 1st Class and 2nd Class, of which there was little difference in our eyes, beyond the small snack offered in 1st Class. Boy, have things changed. THIS 1st Class is very nice. Our roll-on's fit right above our seats, they fed us two decent meals (the second one a vegetarian plate with a cold pesto salad, marinated tomato wedges, fresh mozzarella balls, olives, yellow peppers, and - voila - cream puffs with chocolate sauce). Feeling relaxed and happy. I could stay on this train all day.
Our destination is Auvers sur Oise, which is the village where Van Gogh spent his last days and is buried, about an hour and a half NW of Paris.
We pulled into Paris Gare Nord, could feel my heart thudding, got a little teary, I AM IN PARIS, albeit only briefly today. Got on the Metro going in the wrong direction, when we realized our error we popped off the Metro, I looked up, and there was the Eiffel Tower it all its Parisian glory. I felt like I was in a movie.
(Our Thalys train tickets as well as our Paris Visite Pass, which allows us unlimited travel on the Metro, have been purchased online and sent to our home prior to our trip, at www.raileurope.com. It is one of the best things that we have learned to do. We aren't waiting to (try to) talk to someone about purchasing tickets. We aren't seeking out the kiosk with the shortest line. We're on the go - maybe not always in the right direction - but we're on the go).
We get off at the Pontoise station, there is a bus to catch to Auvers. DH is not a big bus guy. Loves trains, hates buses. So when we spot the taxi, we are in it in record time.
Short ride to our accomodations for the evening, Hostellerie du Nord (www.hostelleriedunord.fr). We then set out to Chateau d'Auver (www.chateau-auvers.fr) for a multi media presentation of the lives of the Impressionists. (It may sound cheesy, however it truly isn't). The only complaint we had was we had English audio headsets, however the French version coming over the P.A. system was so loud we had to keep our hands pressed over our ears in an attempt to hear).
Back to the hotel for our 20:00 reservation at their highly esteemed restaurant Joel Boilleaut. (Ok, so I am not sure where I am getting "highly esteemed" from, however that is the impression I had).
Beautiful room overlooking a beautiful terrace (just a little bit too chilly to eat outside. The restaurant was full, a nice low-key energy, service superb. I started with champagne (when in France...), DH had a Pastis, the amuse bouche could not of been any more petite - one was a blini with smoked salmon, I don't remember what else, the other was a piece of sausage with something on top of it - they were like miniature works of art, with intense wonderful flavors in these little bites. We like tasting menus, so that is what we both had, ordered wine. Began with a salade w/ asparagus and lobster, followed by aspargus soupe. Our fish course was monkfish (I hadn't had monkfish in so long, it was so good), veal, with an artichoke half. Then they brought the cheese trolley around. Ahhhhh. It was like I died and went to heaven. I selected six frommage. More than maybe is polite...however I couldn't stop myself. Enjoyed every morsel. Trio of sherbets in mini cream puffs, with flavors that just burst in your mouth, and petite madeleines and macaroons. Life is good. Life is SO good.
Jul 15th, 2011, 02:57 PM
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Breakfast was served at 9am, coffee, oj, pastries including pains au chocolat, croissants,and a baguette. Also a trio of jams and jars of yogurt.
So happy we had decided to have breakfast delivered to the room, am moving slow this morning. They had asked at dinner if I wanted breakfast the following morning, I declined, having remembered reading somewhere that it was not good value. However when asked again and realizing how I was enjoying their food immensely....how could I not say "oui"?
Walked to the cemetary to visit Vincent's and his brother Theo's graves, the cemetary is surrounded by wheatfields. Peaceful and very quiet. Along the way, and also at the wheatfields you pass signage where the painters were done with the painting's image.
On the way back we stopped at the T.I., Sophie was very sweet and assisted with the train schedule. Discovered we can leave from the Auvers Sur Oise train station, which is right across the street from the hotel, rather than take a taxi or bus to Pontoise. (Nothing I had read indicated the station in Auvers). There was a little sign on the counter saying Sophie was available for walking tours in English, it seemed as though the cost was nominal. I wish we would've had time.
Having read "Van Gogh's Table at the Auberge Ravoux", I was disappointed we did not have time to go there, to visit Vincent's room, also the restaurant is supposed to be excellent. Next time.
We are being cautious and allowing more than enough time to be at the Paris apartment that we have rented to be prompt to meet with the owner. Our booking was only a couple weeks ago and we had emailed back and forth, always receiving a quick response...'til the day our bank transferred the money. We heard nothing, and did not receive a response to our email or telephone messages. I finally caught up with her a couple days later, she said her son was getting married that day, all was well, "do not worry". So...we're not 100% confident about our accomodations.
At any rate, we do not want to be late. We get to the apartment on Ile St. Louis, arriving early. The big door swung open, the garde showed us through the courtyard, second floor (American third, no lift), up the staircase, and Martine greets us with a big smile and is quite charming.
We like the apartment. The building is on the Seine, our apartment is in the back with our big living room window opening onto the courtyard. Furnished nicely, traditionally (so much so that the flat screen TV looked out of place). Couch, two chairs, table. Also a desk, fireplace (nonworking), and chandelier The kitchen is off to one side of the room, with kitchen table and chairs. Love the bedroom. Large room, large bed with white duvet and lots of pillows. Fireplace (nonworking,but pretty), wardrobe built into wall with hanging space and drawers. The bedroom has a bathroom with bathtub and the handheld apparatus (you know what I mean, right?), sink, ample shelving. The toilet is in another room, off the foyer, with a small sink. The apartment is well appointed, the bathtub is new, the fixtures look deluxe. The towels are Frette and Yves Delorme. She's provided French toiletries. The kitchen is well equipped as well, an expresso maker, with expresso, DeLongh toaster. The a/c unit is an unusual contraption. It looks kind of like a big vacumn cleaner that blows out cool air and has a flexible tube where the hot air blow out. Looks funny, but works.
So happy we had decided to have breakfast delivered to the room, am moving slow this morning. They had asked at dinner if I wanted breakfast the following morning, I declined, having remembered reading somewhere that it was not good value. However when asked again and realizing how I was enjoying their food immensely....how could I not say "oui"?
Walked to the cemetary to visit Vincent's and his brother Theo's graves, the cemetary is surrounded by wheatfields. Peaceful and very quiet. Along the way, and also at the wheatfields you pass signage where the painters were done with the painting's image.
On the way back we stopped at the T.I., Sophie was very sweet and assisted with the train schedule. Discovered we can leave from the Auvers Sur Oise train station, which is right across the street from the hotel, rather than take a taxi or bus to Pontoise. (Nothing I had read indicated the station in Auvers). There was a little sign on the counter saying Sophie was available for walking tours in English, it seemed as though the cost was nominal. I wish we would've had time.
Having read "Van Gogh's Table at the Auberge Ravoux", I was disappointed we did not have time to go there, to visit Vincent's room, also the restaurant is supposed to be excellent. Next time.
We are being cautious and allowing more than enough time to be at the Paris apartment that we have rented to be prompt to meet with the owner. Our booking was only a couple weeks ago and we had emailed back and forth, always receiving a quick response...'til the day our bank transferred the money. We heard nothing, and did not receive a response to our email or telephone messages. I finally caught up with her a couple days later, she said her son was getting married that day, all was well, "do not worry". So...we're not 100% confident about our accomodations.
At any rate, we do not want to be late. We get to the apartment on Ile St. Louis, arriving early. The big door swung open, the garde showed us through the courtyard, second floor (American third, no lift), up the staircase, and Martine greets us with a big smile and is quite charming.
We like the apartment. The building is on the Seine, our apartment is in the back with our big living room window opening onto the courtyard. Furnished nicely, traditionally (so much so that the flat screen TV looked out of place). Couch, two chairs, table. Also a desk, fireplace (nonworking), and chandelier The kitchen is off to one side of the room, with kitchen table and chairs. Love the bedroom. Large room, large bed with white duvet and lots of pillows. Fireplace (nonworking,but pretty), wardrobe built into wall with hanging space and drawers. The bedroom has a bathroom with bathtub and the handheld apparatus (you know what I mean, right?), sink, ample shelving. The toilet is in another room, off the foyer, with a small sink. The apartment is well appointed, the bathtub is new, the fixtures look deluxe. The towels are Frette and Yves Delorme. She's provided French toiletries. The kitchen is well equipped as well, an expresso maker, with expresso, DeLongh toaster. The a/c unit is an unusual contraption. It looks kind of like a big vacumn cleaner that blows out cool air and has a flexible tube where the hot air blow out. Looks funny, but works.
Jul 15th, 2011, 04:15 PM
#28
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Who did you rent your apartment from? We just rented one in Rome from Sleepinitaly...we also did not want to be late to meet the representative who would let us in, and in fact were an hour early so we could eat dinner first. Luckily there was a cafe just across our narrow cobblestone street from the door so we had a bird's eye view. Unfortunately, the guy didn't show up. we finally called the owner and she tracked him down. He arrived 1 1/4 hours late. It was a nice apartment with no toiletries. (Would have been nice to have a bit of soap after traveling all day).
We left Rome today. The same guy was supposed to meet us there last night at 6 to check us out and to return our security deposit. He never showed up and didn't answer his phone so at 8 we left for dinner. We left a message as to where we would be but he didn't show up at all. You are very lucky the way things worked out for you...or we are very unlucky! Now comes the part about tracking down our check!
We left Rome today. The same guy was supposed to meet us there last night at 6 to check us out and to return our security deposit. He never showed up and didn't answer his phone so at 8 we left for dinner. We left a message as to where we would be but he didn't show up at all. You are very lucky the way things worked out for you...or we are very unlucky! Now comes the part about tracking down our check!
Jul 18th, 2011, 07:02 AM
#30
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI: All wines have sulfites--it occurs naturally on many plants, like grapes, onions, garlic, etc. Most wines have added sulfites unless they are meant to be consumed very quickly after bottling--otherwise the wine will turn to vinegar in just a few months. Winemakers have been adding sulfites to preserve wines for centuries--including the ancient Greeks and Romans.
Even wines advertised as "sulfite-free" have sulfites--just very low levels.
Even wines advertised as "sulfite-free" have sulfites--just very low levels.
Jul 18th, 2011, 08:15 AM
#32
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,657
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We visited Amsterdam for the first time last Spring...LOVED it. Hope to go back again. Of course, we had fantastic weather, and that helps tremendously, when so much of the city is focused on "outdoors."
Jul 19th, 2011, 12:17 PM
#35
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also looking forward to continuation of story, SwimChick!
I love visiting libraries (lib - librarian) and now know if ever I get a chance to visit, I could enjoy the Bibliotheek Amsterdam's cafe.
I love visiting libraries (lib - librarian) and now know if ever I get a chance to visit, I could enjoy the Bibliotheek Amsterdam's cafe.
Jul 20th, 2011, 05:50 AM
#36
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
(Have been in South Beach for work the past few days...busy days with being taken out for big dinners in the evening, after parties and fashion shows at night - ok, truth be told we only made it to ONE after party/fashion show...happy to be home this morning, although suspect between the Amsterdam and Paris trip, followed quickly the by South Beach trip, we're going to be in for a Big Letdown Soon).
Ok, back to Paris...we quickly unpack and head out for Le Flore en Ile seeking a late lunch. It looks like it might rain so inside we go. The restaurant is located on the tip of Ile St. Louis, we were at a table by the window overlooking the back of Notre Dame. We start with French onion soup, there are a number of good things on the menu. Here is the list of specials, ah....tartare, frites, salade verte, oh that is us! There was a burst of rain while we were eating, so we are happy to be inside, relaxing, and enjoying some of our favorite Paris bistro foods.
No dessert, too full, maybe later. We attempted to find the Virgin Megastore on rue Rivoli as I had ordered tickets online that we needed to pick up, however could not locate! Got on Metro to head to Champs-Elysses store. At the turnstile I sailed through and jumped through the door, turned and my eyes were as big as saucers as I saw DH attempting to climb OVER the turnstile. It was the funniest thing I ever saw, DH is not a climb-over-anything kind of guy, does not suffer from separation anxiety from me, and of course the turnstiles are not designed to be easily climbed over. I quickly jumped off and joined him as he was now coming through properly and we waited for for next train. Located and picked up tickets without incident, headed back to our area. SMUSHED-SMUSHED-SMUSHED in Metro - unbelievable. You know, you could tell someone how tightly packed you were, and they could never imagine how smushed unless they've been there during rush hour themselves.
Ok, back to Paris...we quickly unpack and head out for Le Flore en Ile seeking a late lunch. It looks like it might rain so inside we go. The restaurant is located on the tip of Ile St. Louis, we were at a table by the window overlooking the back of Notre Dame. We start with French onion soup, there are a number of good things on the menu. Here is the list of specials, ah....tartare, frites, salade verte, oh that is us! There was a burst of rain while we were eating, so we are happy to be inside, relaxing, and enjoying some of our favorite Paris bistro foods.
No dessert, too full, maybe later. We attempted to find the Virgin Megastore on rue Rivoli as I had ordered tickets online that we needed to pick up, however could not locate! Got on Metro to head to Champs-Elysses store. At the turnstile I sailed through and jumped through the door, turned and my eyes were as big as saucers as I saw DH attempting to climb OVER the turnstile. It was the funniest thing I ever saw, DH is not a climb-over-anything kind of guy, does not suffer from separation anxiety from me, and of course the turnstiles are not designed to be easily climbed over. I quickly jumped off and joined him as he was now coming through properly and we waited for for next train. Located and picked up tickets without incident, headed back to our area. SMUSHED-SMUSHED-SMUSHED in Metro - unbelievable. You know, you could tell someone how tightly packed you were, and they could never imagine how smushed unless they've been there during rush hour themselves.
Jul 20th, 2011, 08:04 AM
#38
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report! I haven't been to Amsterdam in more than 20 years and your report is making me think I need to plan a trip there soon!
I completely understand about the SMUSHED-ness on the Metro during rush hour...been there, done that!
Looking forward to reading more!
I completely understand about the SMUSHED-ness on the Metro during rush hour...been there, done that!
Looking forward to reading more!
Jul 20th, 2011, 01:35 PM
#40
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bolted at Hotel de Ville, wandered through the Marais, stopped at Monoprix for a few grocery items. Decided to go back out later in the evening, are pleased with our choice of apartments and the area, feeling the St. I'le St. Louis is an oasis. Not really hungry...a gelato? No. Maybe a crepe? No. How about a drink? No. Nice evening, ready to call it a day.
