Istanbul trip report
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:39 AM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
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Istanbul trip report
Instead of doing a day-by-day, step-by-step report I'm just going to touch upon some highlights of my Istanbul trip:
Turkish Shave
I purposely did not shave for a week because I had read numerous postings about getting a Turkish shave. On the day of my arrival I went to a barber near the Cemberlitas baths, Kuafor Salonu. I was treated to a double shave with a straight razor, my nose hairs and ear hairs trimmed (ear hairs then singed), eyebrows trimmed, a shoulder and upper back massage, my neck adjusted and various creams and lotions applied to my face - all for 5.000.000 TL. To say the least - my shaving cream and razors remained in my toiletry bag the entire trip. It was a great way to start off each morning.
Cemberlitas baths
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr
A bath and massage cost 25.000.000 TL. A turkish friend here in NYC told me to tell the massage attendant - 'tallah'. On my first visit - my attendant proceeded to scrub me down like Karen Silkwood and turn me into a pretzel - cracking my back, my neck. On my third visit - an older man was my massage attendant. I wasn't really expecting a pummeling as the previous two visits - however the attendant motioned for me to lay on my stomach on the marble slab, stepped up and onto my back and proceeded to shimmy back and forth along my spine until I capitulated. I would also recommend going early - I had the bath to myself one morning - a majority of the attendants were asleep, the dripping water echoed within the bath - there was something wonderfully peaceful staring up at the dome in solitude. The best method for tipping seems to be at the end of the session after you have dressed - just find your massage attendant as you leave, most likely he'll find you. My belongings were securely locked in my changing room - no problems at all. Just around the corner you can get freshly squeezed orange juice for 1.500.000 TL.
The Bosphorus ferry
The ferry leaves at 10:35 am - get there around 10 to buy your ticket. Round trip is 6.600.000, one way is 3.300.000. You may be approached by people trying to steer you towards their boats - just ignore them and find Pier 3. To view the European side first, I recommend the back of the boat on the left hand side (when facing the bow of the ship). If you sit in the same place you'll see the Asian side on your return. As we waited to leave we watched numerous ships and ferries go by. i was amazed at how the ferries docked so quickly and so closely to each other. The Golden Horn and the Bosphorus look amazingly clean (compared to the Hudson and East rivers here in NYC) - I even saw huge jelly fish. I was surprised at how fast the ferry goes. Also - the ferry docks for about 2 minutes at each ferry stop - so if you're getting off at Beskitas, don't dwaddle because they won't wait. It was nice to see how the city peeled away to the green shores of the Bosphorus. The Bosphorus is huge. The 10:35 ferry stops at Andalou Kavagi around noon and doesn't leave until 3 pm. We walked up to the Genose Castle (actually Byzantine) - from there you can see the Black Sea and the numerous ships waiting to enter the Bosphorus. There are numerous restaurants in Kavagoi Andalou - see restaurant review. Once again - the trip back was swift. I can see why this is such a popular weekend activity. There are mini boats at the ferry stops that will take you to the opposite shore - 1.000.000 TL.
Turkish Shave
I purposely did not shave for a week because I had read numerous postings about getting a Turkish shave. On the day of my arrival I went to a barber near the Cemberlitas baths, Kuafor Salonu. I was treated to a double shave with a straight razor, my nose hairs and ear hairs trimmed (ear hairs then singed), eyebrows trimmed, a shoulder and upper back massage, my neck adjusted and various creams and lotions applied to my face - all for 5.000.000 TL. To say the least - my shaving cream and razors remained in my toiletry bag the entire trip. It was a great way to start off each morning.
Cemberlitas baths
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr
A bath and massage cost 25.000.000 TL. A turkish friend here in NYC told me to tell the massage attendant - 'tallah'. On my first visit - my attendant proceeded to scrub me down like Karen Silkwood and turn me into a pretzel - cracking my back, my neck. On my third visit - an older man was my massage attendant. I wasn't really expecting a pummeling as the previous two visits - however the attendant motioned for me to lay on my stomach on the marble slab, stepped up and onto my back and proceeded to shimmy back and forth along my spine until I capitulated. I would also recommend going early - I had the bath to myself one morning - a majority of the attendants were asleep, the dripping water echoed within the bath - there was something wonderfully peaceful staring up at the dome in solitude. The best method for tipping seems to be at the end of the session after you have dressed - just find your massage attendant as you leave, most likely he'll find you. My belongings were securely locked in my changing room - no problems at all. Just around the corner you can get freshly squeezed orange juice for 1.500.000 TL.
The Bosphorus ferry
The ferry leaves at 10:35 am - get there around 10 to buy your ticket. Round trip is 6.600.000, one way is 3.300.000. You may be approached by people trying to steer you towards their boats - just ignore them and find Pier 3. To view the European side first, I recommend the back of the boat on the left hand side (when facing the bow of the ship). If you sit in the same place you'll see the Asian side on your return. As we waited to leave we watched numerous ships and ferries go by. i was amazed at how the ferries docked so quickly and so closely to each other. The Golden Horn and the Bosphorus look amazingly clean (compared to the Hudson and East rivers here in NYC) - I even saw huge jelly fish. I was surprised at how fast the ferry goes. Also - the ferry docks for about 2 minutes at each ferry stop - so if you're getting off at Beskitas, don't dwaddle because they won't wait. It was nice to see how the city peeled away to the green shores of the Bosphorus. The Bosphorus is huge. The 10:35 ferry stops at Andalou Kavagi around noon and doesn't leave until 3 pm. We walked up to the Genose Castle (actually Byzantine) - from there you can see the Black Sea and the numerous ships waiting to enter the Bosphorus. There are numerous restaurants in Kavagoi Andalou - see restaurant review. Once again - the trip back was swift. I can see why this is such a popular weekend activity. There are mini boats at the ferry stops that will take you to the opposite shore - 1.000.000 TL.
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:40 AM
#2
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
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Dolmabache
Tourists pay 10.000.000, Turkishs pay 4.000.000. My Turkish friend and I did the Selamlik tour. The grounds are beautiful - the palace's interior is constructed off wood. Tours start about every 15 minutes - or until there are 20 people. There are guides who speak English. The Sultan really liked chandeliers - the woodwork, is quite impressive. The Victory room is stunning. The Sultan's hamam is included with this tour. The hamam is all alabaster - very beautiful. The harem tour is a separate ticket. After the tour my friend and I walked around the grounds then went to Mavi Balik for lunch.
St. Chora
The mosaics and the frescos in the church are beautiful. Admission is 10.000.000 TL. A guide approached us and offered his services - 25.000.000 TL for about a 45 minute tour of the mosaics, frescos and history of the church - very informative. The restaurant, Asitane, is located right next to St. Chora.
St. Sophia
The mother of all great architecture. From the outside it looks like a jumble of odd shapes - the inside is a true masterpiece. This is what architecture is all about - sculpted, contained space. The various colored marbles - the partial mosiacs. About 25% of the central dome is obscured with scaffolding due to restoration. I did not get to the upper level unfortunately.
Tourists pay 10.000.000, Turkishs pay 4.000.000. My Turkish friend and I did the Selamlik tour. The grounds are beautiful - the palace's interior is constructed off wood. Tours start about every 15 minutes - or until there are 20 people. There are guides who speak English. The Sultan really liked chandeliers - the woodwork, is quite impressive. The Victory room is stunning. The Sultan's hamam is included with this tour. The hamam is all alabaster - very beautiful. The harem tour is a separate ticket. After the tour my friend and I walked around the grounds then went to Mavi Balik for lunch.
St. Chora
The mosaics and the frescos in the church are beautiful. Admission is 10.000.000 TL. A guide approached us and offered his services - 25.000.000 TL for about a 45 minute tour of the mosaics, frescos and history of the church - very informative. The restaurant, Asitane, is located right next to St. Chora.
St. Sophia
The mother of all great architecture. From the outside it looks like a jumble of odd shapes - the inside is a true masterpiece. This is what architecture is all about - sculpted, contained space. The various colored marbles - the partial mosiacs. About 25% of the central dome is obscured with scaffolding due to restoration. I did not get to the upper level unfortunately.
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:40 AM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
RESTAURANTS
Balikci Sabahattin (The Fisherman)
Cankurtaran, Sultanahmet
http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/pg_en/armada.asp?ID=36
Located in the Sultanahamet, down some alleyways and stairs, next to the Armada Hotel - my friends and I sat outside under a large umbrella (which protected later from a light sprinkle), the smell of grilled fish wafting by. We started with a bottle of raki, an assortment of cold and hot mezzes (the calamari was crisp, feather light, firm not chewy or doughy). The cold mezes were delicate, restrained - an obvious sure hand seasoning each dish. Just point to what looks good and dive in. We each order grilled fish - blue fish, red mullet and bonito - all very flavorful, but just a tad dry - and a couple bottles of Turkish white, Dessert consisted of stuffed figs and some type of quince dessert. The setting is relaxing - the food is well prepared. The total bill came to almost 200 million (about $120) but for three people and the quality, not to mention in the Sultanahamet area - quite reasonable.
Zeyrekhane
Sinaga Mahallesi Ibadethane Arkasi Sok. No 10, Zeyrek-Fatih
I waited here due to rain as my guide went for his car. Located in front the Byztanine church, Pantokrator Monestary, in the Fatih area - this restaurant has a great view of the Golden Horn, and the Galata Tower. I ordered a small meze platter - which was pleasant. But what was really great was the complimentary dish of pickles - these were so good. This restaurant also has a huge terrace - which I'm sure in the spring and summer is great.
Pandeli
Located in the Spice Market on the second floor - the food here was fine. My guide and I order some smoked aubergine - I had kofte, he boiled lamb. Everything was fine - we did catch the restaurant near the end of lunch which may explain why certain mezzes weren't available. While I wouldn't say this was a must do - the location is convenient and the turquoise tiled room makes for a pleasant setting.
Boncuk
Balikpazan Nevizade Sok., No. 19, Beyoglu
www.nevizademeyhaneleri.com/boncuk
Located on Nevizade - if you have trouble locating this street just ask. We went on Friday night - the whole area was jam packed with people - real riotous scene - quite fun and light hearty. Yes, you will be approached by numerous restaurants asking you to dine at their establishment. I can't tell you about the quality of the other places.There is seating outside at Boncuk but I don't believe they take reservations - just get there early on a friday or Saturday night. We ordered a flurry of mezzes, salad (my friends thought the dressing was a bit too vinegary but the produce was very good) and raki. The calamari here was doughy and chewy. Mezes dish prices ranged from 2.000.000 to 6.000.000. For the life of me - I can't remember if we had main dishes - I just remember us devouring the mezes, mainly because we had been with guides all day and were ravenous.
Balikci Sabahattin (The Fisherman)
Cankurtaran, Sultanahmet
http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/pg_en/armada.asp?ID=36
Located in the Sultanahamet, down some alleyways and stairs, next to the Armada Hotel - my friends and I sat outside under a large umbrella (which protected later from a light sprinkle), the smell of grilled fish wafting by. We started with a bottle of raki, an assortment of cold and hot mezzes (the calamari was crisp, feather light, firm not chewy or doughy). The cold mezes were delicate, restrained - an obvious sure hand seasoning each dish. Just point to what looks good and dive in. We each order grilled fish - blue fish, red mullet and bonito - all very flavorful, but just a tad dry - and a couple bottles of Turkish white, Dessert consisted of stuffed figs and some type of quince dessert. The setting is relaxing - the food is well prepared. The total bill came to almost 200 million (about $120) but for three people and the quality, not to mention in the Sultanahamet area - quite reasonable.
Zeyrekhane
Sinaga Mahallesi Ibadethane Arkasi Sok. No 10, Zeyrek-Fatih
I waited here due to rain as my guide went for his car. Located in front the Byztanine church, Pantokrator Monestary, in the Fatih area - this restaurant has a great view of the Golden Horn, and the Galata Tower. I ordered a small meze platter - which was pleasant. But what was really great was the complimentary dish of pickles - these were so good. This restaurant also has a huge terrace - which I'm sure in the spring and summer is great.
Pandeli
Located in the Spice Market on the second floor - the food here was fine. My guide and I order some smoked aubergine - I had kofte, he boiled lamb. Everything was fine - we did catch the restaurant near the end of lunch which may explain why certain mezzes weren't available. While I wouldn't say this was a must do - the location is convenient and the turquoise tiled room makes for a pleasant setting.
Boncuk
Balikpazan Nevizade Sok., No. 19, Beyoglu
www.nevizademeyhaneleri.com/boncuk
Located on Nevizade - if you have trouble locating this street just ask. We went on Friday night - the whole area was jam packed with people - real riotous scene - quite fun and light hearty. Yes, you will be approached by numerous restaurants asking you to dine at their establishment. I can't tell you about the quality of the other places.There is seating outside at Boncuk but I don't believe they take reservations - just get there early on a friday or Saturday night. We ordered a flurry of mezzes, salad (my friends thought the dressing was a bit too vinegary but the produce was very good) and raki. The calamari here was doughy and chewy. Mezes dish prices ranged from 2.000.000 to 6.000.000. For the life of me - I can't remember if we had main dishes - I just remember us devouring the mezes, mainly because we had been with guides all day and were ravenous.
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:41 AM
#4
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
Saray
Istikial Caddesi, No. 102-104, Beyoglu
www.saraymuhallebicisi.com
Located on Istikail Caddessi - we stopped off here for dessert - lured in by the glistening variations of baklava in the window. I ordered the pudding made with shredded chicken breast - which had similar flavors to rice pudding but a unusual (but not negative) texture,. My friends baklava variations failed to impress - but there are numerous dessert places on Istikal Caddessi. Istikail Caddessi was thronged with people.
Asistane
Kariye Camii Sok. N0. 18 34240, Edirnekapi
www.kariyeotel.com
Located right next to St. Chora (must see Byzantine mosaics and frescos) - specializes in Ottoman cuisine. A neutral toned understated dining room. The dishes are very different than regular Turkish cuisine - some of the dishes were from a sultan's circumcision fete. The dishes were more complex and subtly spiced. One friend ordered smoked aubergine - which was delicious and beautifully presented. My other friend had a hummus dish that incoporated cinnamon and raisins - very interesting. I had stuff grape leaves with sour cherry - the sour cherry was overwhelmed by the vinegar. We all had various lamb dishes. I would recommend this place - and will definitely come back next time I'm in Istanbul.
Asitane menu highlights:
"...Ottoman Heritage - Delicacies from the Palace
Ottoman cuisine is a buried treasure. The heritage of a great empire which lasted for 700 years. A synthesis of Central Asian, Anatolian , and European flavors. Deeply influenced by the culinary cultures of the Middle East, North Africa, Russia, and Greece. Unfortunately very few recipes from this rich cuisine survived due to a tradition which demanded that cooks guilds keep their recipes and cooking techniques secret.
Here at Asitane, we have made it our mission to reintroduce Ottoman cooking to the world. Since 1990, a dedicated staff have hunted down lost tastes with academic zeal. We consulted a variety of sources, including the budget ledgers of the three main palace kitchens ? Topkap?, Edirne and Dolmabahçe- and the memoirs of foreign diplomats or visitors to try and recreate authentic Ottoman cuisine..."
White Bean Paste
White beans mashed with cinnamon and lemon juice, served with fresh herbs.
7.000.000 TL
Special Humus
Ground chickpeas with lemon juice, cinnamon,black currants and pine nuts.
7.000.000 TL
Vine leaves stuffed with a blend of sour cherries, rice, onions and pine nuts, cooked lightly in olive oil.
Seasoned with black pepper and cinnamon.
8.000.000 TL
Grilled Circassian Cheese with Oyster Mushrooms.
12.000.000 TL
Aubergine with Cheese
Fried aubergine slices with ?Gönen? cottage cheese.
8.000.000 TL
Almond Soup
A light almond broth flavoured
with grated coconut.
6.000.000 TL
Fresh Fish en Papillote
Choice fillet of sea bass or umbrina wrapped in parchment and slow baked.
24.000.000 TL
Asitane Wrap
Baked aubergines mixed with grilled mince meat, tomatoes, and green peppers, wrapped in a sheet of pasta and served with peppermint sauce.
14.000.000 TL
Date Shaped Meat Kebab
Mince meat of lambs seasoned with cinnamon, cardamom, anise and spearmint.
14.000.000 TL
Stuffed Melon
Cored melon stuffed with mincemeat, rice, herbs, almonds, currants and pistachio nuts and baked.
16.000.000 TL
Quail with Aubergine
Baked and boned quail stuffed in a whole aubergin, baked and served with a sweet basil sauce.
20.000.000 TL
Mutanjene
Diced lamb with shallots, dried apricot, red raisins,vinegar, honey and almonds baked slowly in an earthenware casserole
known as "guvech".
16.000.000 TL
Finger-shaped pastries in heavy grape syrup.
6.000.000 TL
Istikial Caddesi, No. 102-104, Beyoglu
www.saraymuhallebicisi.com
Located on Istikail Caddessi - we stopped off here for dessert - lured in by the glistening variations of baklava in the window. I ordered the pudding made with shredded chicken breast - which had similar flavors to rice pudding but a unusual (but not negative) texture,. My friends baklava variations failed to impress - but there are numerous dessert places on Istikal Caddessi. Istikail Caddessi was thronged with people.
Asistane
Kariye Camii Sok. N0. 18 34240, Edirnekapi
www.kariyeotel.com
Located right next to St. Chora (must see Byzantine mosaics and frescos) - specializes in Ottoman cuisine. A neutral toned understated dining room. The dishes are very different than regular Turkish cuisine - some of the dishes were from a sultan's circumcision fete. The dishes were more complex and subtly spiced. One friend ordered smoked aubergine - which was delicious and beautifully presented. My other friend had a hummus dish that incoporated cinnamon and raisins - very interesting. I had stuff grape leaves with sour cherry - the sour cherry was overwhelmed by the vinegar. We all had various lamb dishes. I would recommend this place - and will definitely come back next time I'm in Istanbul.
Asitane menu highlights:
"...Ottoman Heritage - Delicacies from the Palace
Ottoman cuisine is a buried treasure. The heritage of a great empire which lasted for 700 years. A synthesis of Central Asian, Anatolian , and European flavors. Deeply influenced by the culinary cultures of the Middle East, North Africa, Russia, and Greece. Unfortunately very few recipes from this rich cuisine survived due to a tradition which demanded that cooks guilds keep their recipes and cooking techniques secret.
Here at Asitane, we have made it our mission to reintroduce Ottoman cooking to the world. Since 1990, a dedicated staff have hunted down lost tastes with academic zeal. We consulted a variety of sources, including the budget ledgers of the three main palace kitchens ? Topkap?, Edirne and Dolmabahçe- and the memoirs of foreign diplomats or visitors to try and recreate authentic Ottoman cuisine..."
White Bean Paste
White beans mashed with cinnamon and lemon juice, served with fresh herbs.
7.000.000 TL
Special Humus
Ground chickpeas with lemon juice, cinnamon,black currants and pine nuts.
7.000.000 TL
Vine leaves stuffed with a blend of sour cherries, rice, onions and pine nuts, cooked lightly in olive oil.
Seasoned with black pepper and cinnamon.
8.000.000 TL
Grilled Circassian Cheese with Oyster Mushrooms.
12.000.000 TL
Aubergine with Cheese
Fried aubergine slices with ?Gönen? cottage cheese.
8.000.000 TL
Almond Soup
A light almond broth flavoured
with grated coconut.
6.000.000 TL
Fresh Fish en Papillote
Choice fillet of sea bass or umbrina wrapped in parchment and slow baked.
24.000.000 TL
Asitane Wrap
Baked aubergines mixed with grilled mince meat, tomatoes, and green peppers, wrapped in a sheet of pasta and served with peppermint sauce.
14.000.000 TL
Date Shaped Meat Kebab
Mince meat of lambs seasoned with cinnamon, cardamom, anise and spearmint.
14.000.000 TL
Stuffed Melon
Cored melon stuffed with mincemeat, rice, herbs, almonds, currants and pistachio nuts and baked.
16.000.000 TL
Quail with Aubergine
Baked and boned quail stuffed in a whole aubergin, baked and served with a sweet basil sauce.
20.000.000 TL
Mutanjene
Diced lamb with shallots, dried apricot, red raisins,vinegar, honey and almonds baked slowly in an earthenware casserole
known as "guvech".
16.000.000 TL
Finger-shaped pastries in heavy grape syrup.
6.000.000 TL
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:43 AM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
Tugra, Cirgan Kimpenski Hotel
Ciragan Caddesi 32, Besiktas
www.ciragan-palace.com
This hotel is huge - does not have the intimate scale that the Four Seasons has but it was a palace in it former life. Situated on the bosphorus - -live farsi music playing. My friends and I did the tasting menu (89.000.000 TL) with dishes such as pan-fried ?lor? cheese sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper; Ottoman style braised lamb with dried plum and apricot, served with pilaf rice ; sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew prepared with Ottoman style garnishes. The quality of the meal was very good - the service was attentive yet something about the room didn't make this an astonishing evening. I'm not sure - maybe it was where our table was located or the enormity of the room. Jacket was required yet numerous people arrived casually dressed - which may have detracted from the surroundings. The Turkish Merlot we had was fantastic. Make sure to walk around the grounds. I believe there is also a Sunday brunch outside on the terrace
DEGUSTATION MENU
Sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew prepared with Ottoman style garnishes,
Served with carrots, potato and pickled onions
Ottoman chicken soup,
Seasoned with plain yoghurt and leek
Beef mixed with pistachios and raisins ?Börek?,
Served with cucumber and yoghurt sauce
Pan-fried ?lor? cheese
Sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper
Ottoman style braised lamb with dried plum and apricot,
Served with pilaf rice
?sakiye? pudding
Served with lime sorbet and sour cherry sauce
Tea, coffee and Petit four
89m TL
Hali
Istiklal Caddesi, No. 211, Beyoglu
This was probably the only meal that was average - we made the mistake of ordering one of those large assortment platters. The gozleme were okay - nothing special. The freshly grilled chicken kebabs were very good - but most everything else seems to have been sitting around for a while. I would recommend ordering individual dishes anywhere you go - even though there are numerous restaurants that have trays of all-ready prepared food.
Ciragan Caddesi 32, Besiktas
www.ciragan-palace.com
This hotel is huge - does not have the intimate scale that the Four Seasons has but it was a palace in it former life. Situated on the bosphorus - -live farsi music playing. My friends and I did the tasting menu (89.000.000 TL) with dishes such as pan-fried ?lor? cheese sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper; Ottoman style braised lamb with dried plum and apricot, served with pilaf rice ; sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew prepared with Ottoman style garnishes. The quality of the meal was very good - the service was attentive yet something about the room didn't make this an astonishing evening. I'm not sure - maybe it was where our table was located or the enormity of the room. Jacket was required yet numerous people arrived casually dressed - which may have detracted from the surroundings. The Turkish Merlot we had was fantastic. Make sure to walk around the grounds. I believe there is also a Sunday brunch outside on the terrace
DEGUSTATION MENU
Sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew prepared with Ottoman style garnishes,
Served with carrots, potato and pickled onions
Ottoman chicken soup,
Seasoned with plain yoghurt and leek
Beef mixed with pistachios and raisins ?Börek?,
Served with cucumber and yoghurt sauce
Pan-fried ?lor? cheese
Sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper
Ottoman style braised lamb with dried plum and apricot,
Served with pilaf rice
?sakiye? pudding
Served with lime sorbet and sour cherry sauce
Tea, coffee and Petit four
89m TL
Hali
Istiklal Caddesi, No. 211, Beyoglu
This was probably the only meal that was average - we made the mistake of ordering one of those large assortment platters. The gozleme were okay - nothing special. The freshly grilled chicken kebabs were very good - but most everything else seems to have been sitting around for a while. I would recommend ordering individual dishes anywhere you go - even though there are numerous restaurants that have trays of all-ready prepared food.
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:44 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
Kor Agop
Ordekli Bakkal Sok. No 7, Kumkapi
I had read negative reviews about the Kumkapi area - tourists being ripped off. However - I found an article by an food writer who lives in Istanbul - who recommended this meyhane. The taxi dropped us off at the pedestrian mall -and we were prodded to eat at various restaurants ("I have 5 children feed, please eat at my restaurant"
We found Kor Agop but there was only one other table filled - I was bit concerned as we sat down - especially when the small band began to play a bit too loudly. We ordered various mezes, salad, fish and two bottles of white Turkish wine. The fish was quite good - moist and flavorful. I think the total bill only came to 71.000.000 TL (fish was actually more expensive in other places on the Bosphorus) The band of course serenaded our table for a tip - but hey, go with the flow and have fun - I imagine this area is packed friday and Saturday. Can't comment on any of the other places here. One note - my hotel did recommend taking a taxi to this area - that the surrounding area can be unsafe.
Yedigul
Iskele Meydani No. 4, Anadolukavagi
This restaurant is located in Andalu Kavagi - the last ferry stop on the Bosphorus before returning to Istanbul. After walking up to the Genoese castle we stopped here for lunch and sat on the second floor which has a nice view of village - and it's right near the ferry stop. We order a assortment of mezes - the white bean and sardines were great - some raki and turkish white . For our main entree we all ordered jumbo shrimp. These were horrible - mushy and an ammonia smell - we should have sent them back ( next restaurant - no doubt) The manager had recommended lufte - the seasonal fish at the time. This meal was more expensive than Kor Agop in Kumkapi - maybe because they have a monopoly on visitors. There are other numerous restaurants in the village.
Seasons Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanhament
Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet
http://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/...dining_49.html
My friends were leaving for Munich in the morning so we decided to have dinner at the Four Season. The food is very well prepared - the room is pleasant. Modern updated turkish dishes and international dishes are offered. The Sunday brunch ($30 US) is a popular scene for the well to do Istanbulites.
Develi Samatya
Gumusyuzuk Sok. No. 7, Samatya
www.develikebap.com
Reviews had praised this specific location for their kebaps. The restaurant also has views of the marmara Sea. Had lunch here - everything was delicious - the "raw" kofte, the lamucun, the pistachio kebabs, the walnut dessert - everything. Unfortunately the upper floors and terrace weren't open for lunch so we only had a partial view of the sea. The room is very nicely decorated in maroons and cream whites. The only odd thing was they don't serve alcohol/wine until the evening (possibly 9 pm - might have been due to Ramazan - not sure) Great little neighborhood - small children playing, the food vendors splashing their produce. I would recommend this specific location highly.
Ordekli Bakkal Sok. No 7, Kumkapi
I had read negative reviews about the Kumkapi area - tourists being ripped off. However - I found an article by an food writer who lives in Istanbul - who recommended this meyhane. The taxi dropped us off at the pedestrian mall -and we were prodded to eat at various restaurants ("I have 5 children feed, please eat at my restaurant"
We found Kor Agop but there was only one other table filled - I was bit concerned as we sat down - especially when the small band began to play a bit too loudly. We ordered various mezes, salad, fish and two bottles of white Turkish wine. The fish was quite good - moist and flavorful. I think the total bill only came to 71.000.000 TL (fish was actually more expensive in other places on the Bosphorus) The band of course serenaded our table for a tip - but hey, go with the flow and have fun - I imagine this area is packed friday and Saturday. Can't comment on any of the other places here. One note - my hotel did recommend taking a taxi to this area - that the surrounding area can be unsafe.Yedigul
Iskele Meydani No. 4, Anadolukavagi
This restaurant is located in Andalu Kavagi - the last ferry stop on the Bosphorus before returning to Istanbul. After walking up to the Genoese castle we stopped here for lunch and sat on the second floor which has a nice view of village - and it's right near the ferry stop. We order a assortment of mezes - the white bean and sardines were great - some raki and turkish white . For our main entree we all ordered jumbo shrimp. These were horrible - mushy and an ammonia smell - we should have sent them back ( next restaurant - no doubt) The manager had recommended lufte - the seasonal fish at the time. This meal was more expensive than Kor Agop in Kumkapi - maybe because they have a monopoly on visitors. There are other numerous restaurants in the village.
Seasons Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanhament
Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet
http://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/...dining_49.html
My friends were leaving for Munich in the morning so we decided to have dinner at the Four Season. The food is very well prepared - the room is pleasant. Modern updated turkish dishes and international dishes are offered. The Sunday brunch ($30 US) is a popular scene for the well to do Istanbulites.
Develi Samatya
Gumusyuzuk Sok. No. 7, Samatya
www.develikebap.com
Reviews had praised this specific location for their kebaps. The restaurant also has views of the marmara Sea. Had lunch here - everything was delicious - the "raw" kofte, the lamucun, the pistachio kebabs, the walnut dessert - everything. Unfortunately the upper floors and terrace weren't open for lunch so we only had a partial view of the sea. The room is very nicely decorated in maroons and cream whites. The only odd thing was they don't serve alcohol/wine until the evening (possibly 9 pm - might have been due to Ramazan - not sure) Great little neighborhood - small children playing, the food vendors splashing their produce. I would recommend this specific location highly.
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:44 AM
#7
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
5th Floor
Soganci Sok. 7, Cihangir
www.5kat.com
A bit hard to find but the view is top notch. A very hip vibe and upscale crowd. Ordered a bottle of Turkish sparkling wine - Tradokya - which was crisp, dry and very enjoyable. Watching the mini boats and traffic from this perch was relaxing and fun. My friend and I ordered cocktails and raki for the next few hours. The restaurant serves more international food - I ordered a tomato/turkish white cheese salad and my friend order chicken fingers with potatoes - which were both fine and took the edge off all the alcohol. The terrace was closed for the season - but if the view from the bar is any indication, it must be great.
Mavi Balik (Blue Fish)
Muallim Naci Caddesi, No. 64/2, Kurucesme
www.mavibalik.com
Great place to have lunch after touring the Dolmabache. A panoramic view of the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge. The grilled calamari and fish were very good. Terrace is open for the summer - if you're looking for a place to have diner during sunset, I would recommend this place. The Turkish white, Ozel Kav, was prefect with the fish. Former name was Mavi Yesil (Blue Green)
Le Pecheur
Yenikoy Caddesi, No. 80, Tarabya
www.lepecheurrestaurant.com
Located in Tarabya - the green blue Bosphorus literally wraps around the main dining room. A large display of fish and a large fish tank greets you at the entrance. We started off with stuffed mussels, smoked salmon, cheese and melon, octopus salad, a bottle of raki. The freshly baked Ramazan bread was still warm, chewy and delicious. For fish, my friend ordered lufte and I ordered sea bass.Both fish grilled perfectly - the flesh was moist and infused with the scent of the grill - really quite good. The temperature had dropped considerably and the mist that developed looked like ghosts dancing on the water. A cab back from Tarabya to the Sultanhamet area cost 20.000.000.
Misc:
My friends and I were there for the beginning of Ramazan. Small Ottoman like houses, selling various foods, were built between the Blue Mosque and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. Salep (so wonderfully satisfying on a chilly evening), profiterols, gozleme, baklava, baked potatoes, etc etc, etc were avilable and incredibly inexpensive - a festive fun scene.
My Turkish friend and I went to Camlica, the highest point in Istanbul, located on the Asian side - take a ferry to Uskudar then a cab to "big" Camlica, the view of the Bosphorus Bridge and the lower Bosphorus is great. "Small" Camlic's views are not as good. There are restaurants there but did not try being that we had dinner reservations in Tarabya. We did however sit in a brightly lit, large kave and drank salep.
Soganci Sok. 7, Cihangir
www.5kat.com
A bit hard to find but the view is top notch. A very hip vibe and upscale crowd. Ordered a bottle of Turkish sparkling wine - Tradokya - which was crisp, dry and very enjoyable. Watching the mini boats and traffic from this perch was relaxing and fun. My friend and I ordered cocktails and raki for the next few hours. The restaurant serves more international food - I ordered a tomato/turkish white cheese salad and my friend order chicken fingers with potatoes - which were both fine and took the edge off all the alcohol. The terrace was closed for the season - but if the view from the bar is any indication, it must be great.
Mavi Balik (Blue Fish)
Muallim Naci Caddesi, No. 64/2, Kurucesme
www.mavibalik.com
Great place to have lunch after touring the Dolmabache. A panoramic view of the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge. The grilled calamari and fish were very good. Terrace is open for the summer - if you're looking for a place to have diner during sunset, I would recommend this place. The Turkish white, Ozel Kav, was prefect with the fish. Former name was Mavi Yesil (Blue Green)
Le Pecheur
Yenikoy Caddesi, No. 80, Tarabya
www.lepecheurrestaurant.com
Located in Tarabya - the green blue Bosphorus literally wraps around the main dining room. A large display of fish and a large fish tank greets you at the entrance. We started off with stuffed mussels, smoked salmon, cheese and melon, octopus salad, a bottle of raki. The freshly baked Ramazan bread was still warm, chewy and delicious. For fish, my friend ordered lufte and I ordered sea bass.Both fish grilled perfectly - the flesh was moist and infused with the scent of the grill - really quite good. The temperature had dropped considerably and the mist that developed looked like ghosts dancing on the water. A cab back from Tarabya to the Sultanhamet area cost 20.000.000.
Misc:
My friends and I were there for the beginning of Ramazan. Small Ottoman like houses, selling various foods, were built between the Blue Mosque and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. Salep (so wonderfully satisfying on a chilly evening), profiterols, gozleme, baklava, baked potatoes, etc etc, etc were avilable and incredibly inexpensive - a festive fun scene.
My Turkish friend and I went to Camlica, the highest point in Istanbul, located on the Asian side - take a ferry to Uskudar then a cab to "big" Camlica, the view of the Bosphorus Bridge and the lower Bosphorus is great. "Small" Camlic's views are not as good. There are restaurants there but did not try being that we had dinner reservations in Tarabya. We did however sit in a brightly lit, large kave and drank salep.
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Nov 21st, 2003 | 10:02 AM
#8
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
HOTELS:
Sultanahmet Sarayi
Torun Sok, No. 19, Sultanahmet
www.sultanahmetpalace.com
This boutique hotel is located next to (right behind) the Blue Mosque. It has a garden with fruit trees and fountain, a restaurant and a restaurant with a view of the Marmara Sea. I had made reservations ($100 US for 6 nights, one additional night free) months in advance asking for a room with a view of the Blue Mosque only to be told right before I left NYC that I was being upgrade to a deluxe room with a partial view of the Marmara Sea. (After the ?room with a view of a wall' fiasco at the Palace Hotel in Hvar I immediately wrote back the hotel asking for further explanation) The room looked over a parking lot and if I leaned out the window I had a full view of the Marmara Sea - to say the least I was not happy, especially being that I was celebrating my 40th. I was told they would move me but couldn't until Monday being that the hotel was fully booked. I'm guessing they were able to charge someone else more for the room they had promised me. The room was nicely furnished - the bathroom is a smaller version of a hamam - an interesting and atmospheric touch. Complimentary fruit basket and bottle of wine. Of course I wasn't able to fully unpack and get settled. In retrospect a room with a view of the Blue Mosque was superfluous because each morning as I left the hotel the Blue Mosque was right in front of me - which really makes this a wonderful location. I was offered any room and decided a room with a view of the Marmara Sea and terrace would be preferred. They moved my belongings on Monday while I was doing the Bosphorus ferry. The room was great but the bathroom/hamam was tiny. I was able to sit on the terrace in the morning and watch the oil tankers and cruise ships enter/leave the Bosphorus. And the sun rises were beautiful - the misty blue grey Bosphorus, the sea gulls cries. The staff was at times very helpful but most of the time seemed coolly indifferent unlike the staff at the Four Seasons where my friends were staying (of course, if I was paying what they were paying.....) But such things as only having one flower vase available seemed to reflect a lack of attention to detail or foresight. I wanted to like this hotel but...it's in a great location and having a terrace overlooking the Marmara Sea was really nice but still.... if you do stay here request one of the following 8 rooms: private balcony+view of Marmara sea, deluxe: 111, 110, 109; view of Blue Mosque: deluxe: 101, 120, 119; standard: 201, 216. Email the hotel directly for a quote on rates.
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul
Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet
My friends stayed here (which was short distance from my hotel) and it is no wonder why this hotel has received so many awards. The service and attention to detail is impeccable. The staff is attentive and professional - cordial without being stiff or overly sweet. My friends had a suite with 1 1/2 baths and a view of the interior garden. On numerous occassions they returned to their room to find complimentary bottles of wines, petite fours, their clothes folded, etc, etc Large umbrellas available at the front in case of rain show the thoughtfulness this hotel has for their guests. Of course paying what my friends were paying - one should expect such service. I'm glad my friends decided to stay at the Four Seasons.
Regarding hotel location - I'm glad I chose to stay in the Sultanahmet area for my first visit to Istanbul - everything is with in walking distance. I picked up a couple brochures of other hotels in the area and will post. I had read some posts recommending staying in Taksim, Beyoglu or up on the Bosphorus. I do wish I had stayed a few days at a hotel somewhere in one of the "villages" along the Bosphorus - just to relax and kick back.
Sultanahmet Sarayi
Torun Sok, No. 19, Sultanahmet
www.sultanahmetpalace.com
This boutique hotel is located next to (right behind) the Blue Mosque. It has a garden with fruit trees and fountain, a restaurant and a restaurant with a view of the Marmara Sea. I had made reservations ($100 US for 6 nights, one additional night free) months in advance asking for a room with a view of the Blue Mosque only to be told right before I left NYC that I was being upgrade to a deluxe room with a partial view of the Marmara Sea. (After the ?room with a view of a wall' fiasco at the Palace Hotel in Hvar I immediately wrote back the hotel asking for further explanation) The room looked over a parking lot and if I leaned out the window I had a full view of the Marmara Sea - to say the least I was not happy, especially being that I was celebrating my 40th. I was told they would move me but couldn't until Monday being that the hotel was fully booked. I'm guessing they were able to charge someone else more for the room they had promised me. The room was nicely furnished - the bathroom is a smaller version of a hamam - an interesting and atmospheric touch. Complimentary fruit basket and bottle of wine. Of course I wasn't able to fully unpack and get settled. In retrospect a room with a view of the Blue Mosque was superfluous because each morning as I left the hotel the Blue Mosque was right in front of me - which really makes this a wonderful location. I was offered any room and decided a room with a view of the Marmara Sea and terrace would be preferred. They moved my belongings on Monday while I was doing the Bosphorus ferry. The room was great but the bathroom/hamam was tiny. I was able to sit on the terrace in the morning and watch the oil tankers and cruise ships enter/leave the Bosphorus. And the sun rises were beautiful - the misty blue grey Bosphorus, the sea gulls cries. The staff was at times very helpful but most of the time seemed coolly indifferent unlike the staff at the Four Seasons where my friends were staying (of course, if I was paying what they were paying.....) But such things as only having one flower vase available seemed to reflect a lack of attention to detail or foresight. I wanted to like this hotel but...it's in a great location and having a terrace overlooking the Marmara Sea was really nice but still.... if you do stay here request one of the following 8 rooms: private balcony+view of Marmara sea, deluxe: 111, 110, 109; view of Blue Mosque: deluxe: 101, 120, 119; standard: 201, 216. Email the hotel directly for a quote on rates.
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul
Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet
My friends stayed here (which was short distance from my hotel) and it is no wonder why this hotel has received so many awards. The service and attention to detail is impeccable. The staff is attentive and professional - cordial without being stiff or overly sweet. My friends had a suite with 1 1/2 baths and a view of the interior garden. On numerous occassions they returned to their room to find complimentary bottles of wines, petite fours, their clothes folded, etc, etc Large umbrellas available at the front in case of rain show the thoughtfulness this hotel has for their guests. Of course paying what my friends were paying - one should expect such service. I'm glad my friends decided to stay at the Four Seasons.
Regarding hotel location - I'm glad I chose to stay in the Sultanahmet area for my first visit to Istanbul - everything is with in walking distance. I picked up a couple brochures of other hotels in the area and will post. I had read some posts recommending staying in Taksim, Beyoglu or up on the Bosphorus. I do wish I had stayed a few days at a hotel somewhere in one of the "villages" along the Bosphorus - just to relax and kick back.
Nov 21st, 2003 | 02:03 PM
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,018
Likes: 0
Great report, marktynernyc, it brought many memories. We visited 5 years ago and I must admit we ate much more sparingly than you did. I was getting a little bit tired of the eggplant dishes (I think they have at least 100 ways to prepare them). Istanbul is an incredible city. I agree with you that the Four Seasons is in a class by itself. Thanks for posting.
Nov 21st, 2003 | 09:10 PM
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 457
Likes: 0
TAXIS
Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. Istanbul is hilly and spread out - don't be afraid to use taxis. Not once did a taxi try to cheat my friends and I. Traffic is mind boggeling - and no road rage unlike here in America. Going to Tugra on a Saturday night took 1 hour and only cost, with tip, 20.000.000 TL ($12-15$ US) - and the older gentelmen driver had the most softest gentlest eyes I have ever seen in a taxi driver.Don't be surprised if the driver stops and gets out to ask directions - specific addresses can be difficult to find. Also know what neighborhood you are going to.
MINI BOATS
Besides the large ferries, there are mini boats which constantly go back and forth across the Bosphorus or Golden Horn. Paid only 1.000.000 TL (0.37 US) per trip.
MONEY
I was a little concerned about all those zeros - however it was really easy - the denominations are in different colors - and I used cheat sheet which was a big help.
Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. Istanbul is hilly and spread out - don't be afraid to use taxis. Not once did a taxi try to cheat my friends and I. Traffic is mind boggeling - and no road rage unlike here in America. Going to Tugra on a Saturday night took 1 hour and only cost, with tip, 20.000.000 TL ($12-15$ US) - and the older gentelmen driver had the most softest gentlest eyes I have ever seen in a taxi driver.Don't be surprised if the driver stops and gets out to ask directions - specific addresses can be difficult to find. Also know what neighborhood you are going to.
MINI BOATS
Besides the large ferries, there are mini boats which constantly go back and forth across the Bosphorus or Golden Horn. Paid only 1.000.000 TL (0.37 US) per trip.
MONEY
I was a little concerned about all those zeros - however it was really easy - the denominations are in different colors - and I used cheat sheet which was a big help.
Nov 22nd, 2003 | 06:38 AM
#11
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 0
Thank you so much. I am off to Istanbul day after tomorrow. Circumstances are not what I expected, and I know it will affect people and make also me more wary of my surroundings. Now I'll print your trip report and take it with me.
Jul 6th, 2004 | 02:12 PM
#13
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Excellent report thanks for the information presented. You did mention you had seen other hotels in the area...would you still stick with your choice? Of course I'm setting aside the Four Seasons. I'm considering the Sultanahmet Palace but am somewhat dubious reading between the lines of your experience there. Would appreciate your input.
Thanks again
Thanks again
