Isabel's Istanbul Trip Report with Photos
Apr 9th, 2009, 01:11 PM
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The camera I used is a Panasonic FZ18. I also have a back up pocket camera, a Canon SD870. The majority of the shots were taken with the Panasonic.
HappyCheesehead - I think you are right, I was looking at all the images with tea in them and that makes the most sense.
Ok, here's more:
Day 4 – KC was battling a respiratory infection and wanted a slow start to the day, plus she hadn’t been inside the Blue Mosque yet so we split up for the morning and I did one of my “walks” that I like to do in new cities. I make up a map with things I want to see laid out geographically. There were a couple of mosques, plus a tomb along Divan Yolu that I’d wanted to see but all were closed. So I got to the Grand Bazaar at only 8:30, shopkeepers were just opening up and drinking their tea. A lot of people seemed to be rushing through, apparently commuters cutting through. It is massive, and almost entirely has tourist goods, but it’s an interesting space and shopkeepers were certainly not aggressive at that time of day. The few I spoke with were quite pleasant.
The area between the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar is truly an experience. It’s a gigantic open air Wal-Mart/Home Depot. Thousands of tiny shops, most selling just one type of item – the broom shop, next to the packing tape shop, next to the plastic toys shop, next to the copper kettles shop, next to the paper towels shop - and on and on and on. This stuff is almost entirely NOT tourist oriented, and the shop keepers here do not speak English. I bought two little copper spoons from a guy who spoke no English, I speak no Turkish – interesting yet very positive experience. Closer to the Spice Bazaar you start to see more spice/nuts/coffee/tea/produce shops.
I had read about a small but beautiful mosque, Rüstem Paşa Camii, and knew it was on the street leading to the Spice Bazaar. In the middle of a block of shops was an opening with a tiny stone staircase, very easy to miss, looked like it led nowhere. But there was a sign so I climbed the stairs and at the top was the tiny courtyard of the Mosque. This was one of my favorites. Way smaller than the “imperial” mosques but I thought more beautiful. The tiles were really, really blue and since it was so small and there were hardly any other people there you could experience them much better.
Not far from here is Suleymaniye Mosque which is currently closed for renovation. You can go inside, but only to this small hallway and there’s nothing to see so kind of pointless. The outbuildings around it, and the small cemetery are kind of interesting though. So I kept going west, through the university district. The main gate is an ornate beauty, on a nice large square, but the area past the gate is not open to the public so I don’t know what it’s like. But there are university buildings for blocks and blocks and they are extremely un-impressive, downright ugly actually. The big square with the university main gate is Beyazit Meydani, the main square of the district. Besides the university gate, you can also see the Beyazit fire tower the Beyazit Camii. And entered through a small flea market, is the Sahaflar Çarşısı, the secondhand-booksellers' market. A little enclave of cute shops and the open area is covered with vines. The Ottoman book market dates back to the 18th C, but long before that there was a Byzantine book and paper market on the site.
Eventually I found my way to my last destination, Sehzade Camii (Princes Mosque). Although bordered by two busy streets, the Mosque has a fairly large park like setting which most of the others (besides the Blue Mosque) don’t have. Inside its one of the largest, and lightest, and again, completely uncrowded. And just past it is the best viewpoint to see the Aqueduct of Valens.
Most of these places are not on the main tourist map (literally they are all on the maps, but I saw very few tourists at any of them). If you only have a couple of days I wouldn’t advise squeezing them in at the expense of the main sites, but I enjoyed this walk and it only took about four hours (and I stopped to do a lot of photographing and shopping.)
I stopped at a little grocery store on the way back to the hotel and got some really good juice, cheese and snacks for lunch (the hotel breakfasts are so good we rarely wanted a real lunch).
That afternoon we did Aya Sofya – incredible, everything the guidebooks say it is – even better. Some people have said they saw it in half an hour, and while this is certainly possible we spent a couple of hours there I think. I like to soak up the atmosphere and history in places like that, and that takes time. And of course taking about a hundred pictures takes a while too.
HappyCheesehead - I think you are right, I was looking at all the images with tea in them and that makes the most sense.
Ok, here's more:
Day 4 – KC was battling a respiratory infection and wanted a slow start to the day, plus she hadn’t been inside the Blue Mosque yet so we split up for the morning and I did one of my “walks” that I like to do in new cities. I make up a map with things I want to see laid out geographically. There were a couple of mosques, plus a tomb along Divan Yolu that I’d wanted to see but all were closed. So I got to the Grand Bazaar at only 8:30, shopkeepers were just opening up and drinking their tea. A lot of people seemed to be rushing through, apparently commuters cutting through. It is massive, and almost entirely has tourist goods, but it’s an interesting space and shopkeepers were certainly not aggressive at that time of day. The few I spoke with were quite pleasant.
The area between the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar is truly an experience. It’s a gigantic open air Wal-Mart/Home Depot. Thousands of tiny shops, most selling just one type of item – the broom shop, next to the packing tape shop, next to the plastic toys shop, next to the copper kettles shop, next to the paper towels shop - and on and on and on. This stuff is almost entirely NOT tourist oriented, and the shop keepers here do not speak English. I bought two little copper spoons from a guy who spoke no English, I speak no Turkish – interesting yet very positive experience. Closer to the Spice Bazaar you start to see more spice/nuts/coffee/tea/produce shops.
I had read about a small but beautiful mosque, Rüstem Paşa Camii, and knew it was on the street leading to the Spice Bazaar. In the middle of a block of shops was an opening with a tiny stone staircase, very easy to miss, looked like it led nowhere. But there was a sign so I climbed the stairs and at the top was the tiny courtyard of the Mosque. This was one of my favorites. Way smaller than the “imperial” mosques but I thought more beautiful. The tiles were really, really blue and since it was so small and there were hardly any other people there you could experience them much better.
Not far from here is Suleymaniye Mosque which is currently closed for renovation. You can go inside, but only to this small hallway and there’s nothing to see so kind of pointless. The outbuildings around it, and the small cemetery are kind of interesting though. So I kept going west, through the university district. The main gate is an ornate beauty, on a nice large square, but the area past the gate is not open to the public so I don’t know what it’s like. But there are university buildings for blocks and blocks and they are extremely un-impressive, downright ugly actually. The big square with the university main gate is Beyazit Meydani, the main square of the district. Besides the university gate, you can also see the Beyazit fire tower the Beyazit Camii. And entered through a small flea market, is the Sahaflar Çarşısı, the secondhand-booksellers' market. A little enclave of cute shops and the open area is covered with vines. The Ottoman book market dates back to the 18th C, but long before that there was a Byzantine book and paper market on the site.
Eventually I found my way to my last destination, Sehzade Camii (Princes Mosque). Although bordered by two busy streets, the Mosque has a fairly large park like setting which most of the others (besides the Blue Mosque) don’t have. Inside its one of the largest, and lightest, and again, completely uncrowded. And just past it is the best viewpoint to see the Aqueduct of Valens.
Most of these places are not on the main tourist map (literally they are all on the maps, but I saw very few tourists at any of them). If you only have a couple of days I wouldn’t advise squeezing them in at the expense of the main sites, but I enjoyed this walk and it only took about four hours (and I stopped to do a lot of photographing and shopping.)
I stopped at a little grocery store on the way back to the hotel and got some really good juice, cheese and snacks for lunch (the hotel breakfasts are so good we rarely wanted a real lunch).
That afternoon we did Aya Sofya – incredible, everything the guidebooks say it is – even better. Some people have said they saw it in half an hour, and while this is certainly possible we spent a couple of hours there I think. I like to soak up the atmosphere and history in places like that, and that takes time. And of course taking about a hundred pictures takes a while too.
Apr 10th, 2009, 10:33 AM
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Day 5 – This morning we decided to “do” the Grand Bazaar (the day before I was really just checking it out). I had read things like “you’ll certainly get lost”, “your head will explode”, etc. Not true. Even KC, who was more bothered by the rude guys on the streets than I was, felt the “hard sell” is made to sound worse in the guidebooks than it really is. The guys on the streets around Sultanahmet Square and Divan Yulo are much worse. Yes, you have to bargain for everything and for some people that can be uncomfortable, but it can be fun as well. In general I didn’t see much there that isn’t available other places and the prices are no better or worse (of course prices depend on how good you are at bargaining, but really, there’s a price they all plan to sell their goods at and you can figure out what this is pretty quickly. And once you know what you’re doing, they figure out you know and the game is mostly just for show). We actually bought very little in the Grand Bazaar.
In the afternoon I took KC to some of the places I’d been the day before, and we went back up to explore Beyoğlu some more. I had wanted to find the Pera Palace Hotel (where Agatha Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express) – did find it but it was closed for renovation and totally covered in scaffolding. I had also wanted to find Pâtisserie Markiz, which supposedly has some really nice art nouveau wall tile paintings but we couldn’t find it the first day we were there. Almost missed it this time too – it’s now a “Robert’s Coffee” and has paper posters in the window advertising cheap food. But it was worth it. Not only is it beautiful, but the cheap food is really good. We went there for dinner and had to wait! (every other restaurant we ate it the whole trip was half empty). The waiters spoke no English (the menu has pictures but no English). We just looked at what other people were having and pointed. We liked it so much (and it was so cheap) we went back the next night, just to eat there.
Day 6 – woke to the sound of rain. Other than the first day when there were a few thunderstorms, we’ve had a mix of clouds and sun but it was dry. This day was not only raining but freezing. I doubt it got above 40F. Good day for an underground cistern (which we had been saving just for this reason). Very cool. You could breeze through it in half an hour but we spent at least twice that long. In the afternoon it was still raining so we did the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art (on the Hippodrome). Good way to kill a few rainy hours but it would not have been on my list of must-sees for a short visit, or even this week long visit had it not been raining.
In the afternoon I took KC to some of the places I’d been the day before, and we went back up to explore Beyoğlu some more. I had wanted to find the Pera Palace Hotel (where Agatha Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express) – did find it but it was closed for renovation and totally covered in scaffolding. I had also wanted to find Pâtisserie Markiz, which supposedly has some really nice art nouveau wall tile paintings but we couldn’t find it the first day we were there. Almost missed it this time too – it’s now a “Robert’s Coffee” and has paper posters in the window advertising cheap food. But it was worth it. Not only is it beautiful, but the cheap food is really good. We went there for dinner and had to wait! (every other restaurant we ate it the whole trip was half empty). The waiters spoke no English (the menu has pictures but no English). We just looked at what other people were having and pointed. We liked it so much (and it was so cheap) we went back the next night, just to eat there.
Day 6 – woke to the sound of rain. Other than the first day when there were a few thunderstorms, we’ve had a mix of clouds and sun but it was dry. This day was not only raining but freezing. I doubt it got above 40F. Good day for an underground cistern (which we had been saving just for this reason). Very cool. You could breeze through it in half an hour but we spent at least twice that long. In the afternoon it was still raining so we did the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art (on the Hippodrome). Good way to kill a few rainy hours but it would not have been on my list of must-sees for a short visit, or even this week long visit had it not been raining.
Apr 14th, 2009, 04:06 PM
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I've been sidetracked by real life. Fodor's life (travel planning and dreaming) is so much nicer. But the last day in Istanbul was one of our favorites so here it is.
Day 7 – our last full day, dawned beautifully sunny. We walked to Sirkeci Station - Opened in 1890, it was the glamorous eastern terminus for the Orient Express (Paris to Istanbul). It is still the last stop for all trains to Istanbul from Europe (a new tunnel due to open next year under the Bosphorus will connect it to Haydarpasa on the Asian side). A little run down, and much smaller than I expected compared to the primary train station in every other European city but it does have one interesting thing going for it – it’s pink! We took the commuter train (for the cost of a tram token) to Yedikule Fortress (Seven Towers), where the land walls and the sea walls meet. A nice Turkish grandmother sitting opposite us kept trying to tell us things but we definitely had a communication barrier.
The neighborhood where the fortress is located is kind of run down and I had read it might not be the safest area (guide books said not to go alone). Turned out to be a family of five Americans got off the train with us so that made us feel better. It’s only about a five minute walk from the train station, and in mid day I’m sure it’s safe, we certainly didn’t see anything that would make us concerned. The fortress is quite impressive, obviously renovated over the centuries. Lots of opportunities for climbing on high walls (with no hand rails) and going up spiral stone staircases in the towers. Incredible views over the Sea of Mamara all the way to the Bosphorus and Golden Horn, in fact pretty much all of Istanbul, at least as far as the eye can see.
On the way home from the train station we made two important purchases. The first was this bread/cheese thing that was really delicious. The other was a small carpet. I had decided I didn’t really need one, didn’t want to carry one, had no place in my house for one. But we popped into a few carpet shops in the area between the station and Aya Sofya, no hard sell (in fact in one we had to look for a salesman) and saw some beautiful silk carpets in tiny sizes. The one I bought is only 15x20 inches – clearly not a floor rug, more intended as a wall hanging or to go on a stool or bench or chair. It really is a piece of art so I couldn’t resist. For the price I could have gotten a much larger wool carpet but I didn’t really want one. But talk about bargaining. They really don’t intend to get anything close to their initial price. He started at over 1000TL. I said “way out of my price range, I just wanted to look at them”. Within five minutes he was down to under 500TL and I wasn’t even counter offering, just saying I couldn’t afford it. I finial bought it when he came down to around $200 USD and said he’d take a credit card.
Our last afternoon we took a walk along the sea of Mamara. Although the busy highway runs between the water and the remains of the sea walls, there’s a nice promenade type walkway. Fishing boats, the big ships entering the Bosphorus, a pretty lighthouse, cats sunning themselves on the rocks. It was a really nice ending to our trip.
The trip home was long and boring and nothing out of the usual so I'll just stop here.
Day 7 – our last full day, dawned beautifully sunny. We walked to Sirkeci Station - Opened in 1890, it was the glamorous eastern terminus for the Orient Express (Paris to Istanbul). It is still the last stop for all trains to Istanbul from Europe (a new tunnel due to open next year under the Bosphorus will connect it to Haydarpasa on the Asian side). A little run down, and much smaller than I expected compared to the primary train station in every other European city but it does have one interesting thing going for it – it’s pink! We took the commuter train (for the cost of a tram token) to Yedikule Fortress (Seven Towers), where the land walls and the sea walls meet. A nice Turkish grandmother sitting opposite us kept trying to tell us things but we definitely had a communication barrier.
The neighborhood where the fortress is located is kind of run down and I had read it might not be the safest area (guide books said not to go alone). Turned out to be a family of five Americans got off the train with us so that made us feel better. It’s only about a five minute walk from the train station, and in mid day I’m sure it’s safe, we certainly didn’t see anything that would make us concerned. The fortress is quite impressive, obviously renovated over the centuries. Lots of opportunities for climbing on high walls (with no hand rails) and going up spiral stone staircases in the towers. Incredible views over the Sea of Mamara all the way to the Bosphorus and Golden Horn, in fact pretty much all of Istanbul, at least as far as the eye can see.
On the way home from the train station we made two important purchases. The first was this bread/cheese thing that was really delicious. The other was a small carpet. I had decided I didn’t really need one, didn’t want to carry one, had no place in my house for one. But we popped into a few carpet shops in the area between the station and Aya Sofya, no hard sell (in fact in one we had to look for a salesman) and saw some beautiful silk carpets in tiny sizes. The one I bought is only 15x20 inches – clearly not a floor rug, more intended as a wall hanging or to go on a stool or bench or chair. It really is a piece of art so I couldn’t resist. For the price I could have gotten a much larger wool carpet but I didn’t really want one. But talk about bargaining. They really don’t intend to get anything close to their initial price. He started at over 1000TL. I said “way out of my price range, I just wanted to look at them”. Within five minutes he was down to under 500TL and I wasn’t even counter offering, just saying I couldn’t afford it. I finial bought it when he came down to around $200 USD and said he’d take a credit card.
Our last afternoon we took a walk along the sea of Mamara. Although the busy highway runs between the water and the remains of the sea walls, there’s a nice promenade type walkway. Fishing boats, the big ships entering the Bosphorus, a pretty lighthouse, cats sunning themselves on the rocks. It was a really nice ending to our trip.
The trip home was long and boring and nothing out of the usual so I'll just stop here.
Apr 15th, 2009, 05:20 PM
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Carpet Sellers: We were hounded in Egypt by salesmen & women, but towards the end of our trip my son had figured out what to say NOynieys yoenueyt hetydsa. In other words, gibberish. If they can't speak your language, no hassles!
But a more polite way is to tell them you have already bought one.
We are going to Istanbul in August, and I CAN'T WAIT!!
But a more polite way is to tell them you have already bought one.
We are going to Istanbul in August, and I CAN'T WAIT!!
Apr 16th, 2009, 08:59 PM
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Really enjoyed your report Isabel--lots of material to use for my five days in October. And what outstanding photos! I also couldn't help but check out some of those from other trips--like Sicily.
I'm having trouble deciding on a hotel. You didn't rave about yours, but at the same time it sounds pretty nice. Trip Advisor has so many glowing reviews from first time members, I'm beginning to question how all these hotels can be this wonderful. Just curious, how did you go about choosing the Tashkonak?
I'm having trouble deciding on a hotel. You didn't rave about yours, but at the same time it sounds pretty nice. Trip Advisor has so many glowing reviews from first time members, I'm beginning to question how all these hotels can be this wonderful. Just curious, how did you go about choosing the Tashkonak?
Apr 17th, 2009, 12:57 PM
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I gave a glowing review to the Hotel Empress Zoe on Tripadvisor. We loved it. It is a small boutique type hotel with a large variety of rooms from very tiny to large. We had a large room in the older part of the building, the Penthouse Suite. I highly recommend this room and the hotel. We enjoyed the location also.
Apr 17th, 2009, 02:06 PM
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Opaldog - Thanks for the recommendation and sharing your experiences in your very interesting trip report. The Empress Zoe and especially the Penthouse Suite sound delightful. But it's just for me and more than I feel I can spend. Did you happen to see any of the smaller rooms?
Apr 17th, 2009, 03:21 PM
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Jeff: I saw some of the smaller rooms from the hallway. They looked nice. I would go for a smaller room if it had a view and was up higher away from the common area. The rooms that were near to the common area would probably be noisy. They did have rooms that overlooked the garden. Go to their website www.emzoe.com.
Apr 18th, 2009, 03:31 AM
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Jeff - I actually don't remember how I first heard of the Tashkonak but at some point I had a list of about 10 hotels, the Empress Zoe was also on it. But the Tashkonak was a little less expensive. I didn't want the cheapest hotel, even though in most European cities I'll go with a relatively cheap hotel, I figured Istanbul might be a little more out of my comfort zone and I'd therefore want a hotel a little better. I was very happy with the Tashkonak. When we first drove up (they met us at the airport) I had a moment of doubt - the neighborhood looked pretty sketchy. But that's Sultanahmet in general. There are two other hotels right near it, and lots more in the general area. As I said, once you know where you are going it's a great location and I can't think any hotel would be easy to find initially. Maybe some right on the main streets, but then they'd be noisy and over priced. I'd stay there again, and I am planning to write a review on TA, just haven't gotten to it yet. We paid 550 euro for eight nights including airport pick up and drop off, and great breakfast. The last morning we had to leave for the airport at 6:30 and they brought us tea in the room and huge sandwiches wrapped up to take with us.
Apr 18th, 2009, 08:08 AM
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Thanks Isabel. I'll put the Tashkonak on my list and look forward to your review on TA.
Changing the subject: I loved your pbase photos on Sicily. Did you do a trip report? I did a search, but couldn't find one. Mainly, I'd like to know if you drove, and if so, how difficult it was. Sorry to throw this in, but it's a trip I've been thinking of, but don't really want to do a tour.
Changing the subject: I loved your pbase photos on Sicily. Did you do a trip report? I did a search, but couldn't find one. Mainly, I'd like to know if you drove, and if so, how difficult it was. Sorry to throw this in, but it's a trip I've been thinking of, but don't really want to do a tour.
Apr 18th, 2009, 02:41 PM
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Jeff, the Sicily trip report is at: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-and-switz.cfm
Driving was not at all difficult, but it does take longer than you might think given the distances. There are no real interstate type highways. But everything is well marked and the roads are good.
Driving was not at all difficult, but it does take longer than you might think given the distances. There are no real interstate type highways. But everything is well marked and the roads are good.
Sep 1st, 2009, 03:31 PM
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Isabel,
My husband and I are planning a trip to Turkey at the end of October and I just found your trip report and photos. Your photos are just beautiful! We will only spend about 5 days in Istanbul (out of 15 total), but I'm so excited to visit and your trip report was so helpful. I loved your insights; you really got a feel for the city. I bookmarked it - thanks so much.
Ellen
My husband and I are planning a trip to Turkey at the end of October and I just found your trip report and photos. Your photos are just beautiful! We will only spend about 5 days in Istanbul (out of 15 total), but I'm so excited to visit and your trip report was so helpful. I loved your insights; you really got a feel for the city. I bookmarked it - thanks so much.
Ellen
Sep 5th, 2009, 07:43 AM
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Hello Isabel,
I don't know how I missed your great report before but I really enjoyed it (liked the structure) and love your photos.
I'll be leaving for Istanbul the end of Sept. and also will be flying Air France. I am concerned about the short connection time so was glad to read that you made it with time to spare. Did you walk to the Istanbul gate or take the bus?
I've been to Morocco and Egypt and can't imagine that the salesmen could be worse than in Egypt. I didn't have a problem in Morocco, in fact had fun haggling with carpet salesmen. They started with an outrageously high price and I started with an outrageously low price and we both seemed to enjoy the performance and were happy with the final sale price.
Thanks for the report and photos.
I don't know how I missed your great report before but I really enjoyed it (liked the structure) and love your photos.
I'll be leaving for Istanbul the end of Sept. and also will be flying Air France. I am concerned about the short connection time so was glad to read that you made it with time to spare. Did you walk to the Istanbul gate or take the bus?
I've been to Morocco and Egypt and can't imagine that the salesmen could be worse than in Egypt. I didn't have a problem in Morocco, in fact had fun haggling with carpet salesmen. They started with an outrageously high price and I started with an outrageously low price and we both seemed to enjoy the performance and were happy with the final sale price.
Thanks for the report and photos.
Sep 5th, 2009, 02:20 PM
#39
dear isabel and many other tourists to istanbul,
because of the compressed location of most of the historic sites and the reasonably priced touristy accommodation the city is judged by the old city (mostly sultanahmet area) and a bit by istiklal street.
the tourist does not usually get a chance to see, meet and share the lives of the major portion of the residents of this city. We do not go to most of the locations that Isabel mentions unless we are taking our children or foreign visitors there. We would never even consider eating at a touristy restaurant at Sultanahmet (and the Four Seasons is atrociously expensive)
We live and go out and shop at neighborhoods such as, Nisantasi, sisli, gayrettepe, Ulus, Levent, Bebek, ayaspasa, macka, suadiye, caddebostan, erenkoy, moda, fenerbahce, etc.
I never hear any tourist writing about the clean streets or the well-dressed women, many in designer clothing, and the fabulous fusion restaurants, the jazz and pop clubs and the concerts, and the art galleries, or the film or theatre or music festivals.
if and when we go to the bazaar, we find the wholesalers and we go with the knowledge of the current international prices of gold and silver, the same as we do in Thailand, the Caribbean and South america, and we do not need to haggle or bargain. We do not buy anything other than gold and silver in the bazaar, and nothing but spices and nuts at the spice bazaar.
When I visit London, if I stay at a hotel near the tower, and just go to Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus for one afternoon and watch the changing of the guard at buckingham palace, and have a boat trip on the Thames, i can probably say that I would not like to go to london again.
March is a rainy, drizzly, terrible time for istanbul, and unfortunately the city suffers from an outdated rain water channeling system. The city also has some very poor neighborhoods with squatter settlements where the inhabitants either do not have the motivation or the energy or the inclination to have a very clean environment. But why should the whole city be labelled as filthy on the basis of these areas?
The city has many problems. the population is of all sorts as in most large metropoli. but it is an incredibly vibrant city, housing not only antiquity but the humdrum existence of millions under the same roof with the dreams of more millions.
there are not enough parks in the old city but lovely ones along the bosphorus, together with supper clubs which attract the Europen jetset. Jazz clubs considered to be among the best in europe. We have watched and listened to (with our children) Michael jackson, madonna, procol harum, miles davis, b.b. king. chuck berry, neil sedaka, joan baez, the rolling stones, depeche mode, dizzy gillespie, santana, and others in Istanbul. (i recommend the dvd, 'crossing the bridge')
and a final word, unless a traveler looks at the bright side of things, all trips are wasted.
if you have read as far as this, i apologize for the pedantic drivel.
because of the compressed location of most of the historic sites and the reasonably priced touristy accommodation the city is judged by the old city (mostly sultanahmet area) and a bit by istiklal street.
the tourist does not usually get a chance to see, meet and share the lives of the major portion of the residents of this city. We do not go to most of the locations that Isabel mentions unless we are taking our children or foreign visitors there. We would never even consider eating at a touristy restaurant at Sultanahmet (and the Four Seasons is atrociously expensive)
We live and go out and shop at neighborhoods such as, Nisantasi, sisli, gayrettepe, Ulus, Levent, Bebek, ayaspasa, macka, suadiye, caddebostan, erenkoy, moda, fenerbahce, etc.
I never hear any tourist writing about the clean streets or the well-dressed women, many in designer clothing, and the fabulous fusion restaurants, the jazz and pop clubs and the concerts, and the art galleries, or the film or theatre or music festivals.
if and when we go to the bazaar, we find the wholesalers and we go with the knowledge of the current international prices of gold and silver, the same as we do in Thailand, the Caribbean and South america, and we do not need to haggle or bargain. We do not buy anything other than gold and silver in the bazaar, and nothing but spices and nuts at the spice bazaar.
When I visit London, if I stay at a hotel near the tower, and just go to Oxford Street and Piccadilly Circus for one afternoon and watch the changing of the guard at buckingham palace, and have a boat trip on the Thames, i can probably say that I would not like to go to london again.
March is a rainy, drizzly, terrible time for istanbul, and unfortunately the city suffers from an outdated rain water channeling system. The city also has some very poor neighborhoods with squatter settlements where the inhabitants either do not have the motivation or the energy or the inclination to have a very clean environment. But why should the whole city be labelled as filthy on the basis of these areas?
The city has many problems. the population is of all sorts as in most large metropoli. but it is an incredibly vibrant city, housing not only antiquity but the humdrum existence of millions under the same roof with the dreams of more millions.
there are not enough parks in the old city but lovely ones along the bosphorus, together with supper clubs which attract the Europen jetset. Jazz clubs considered to be among the best in europe. We have watched and listened to (with our children) Michael jackson, madonna, procol harum, miles davis, b.b. king. chuck berry, neil sedaka, joan baez, the rolling stones, depeche mode, dizzy gillespie, santana, and others in Istanbul. (i recommend the dvd, 'crossing the bridge')
and a final word, unless a traveler looks at the bright side of things, all trips are wasted.
if you have read as far as this, i apologize for the pedantic drivel.
Sep 5th, 2009, 05:13 PM
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ellencmog - I'm glad the report was helpful to you. Have a great trip.
Luisah - I have not been to Egypt or Morocco so can't compare. People I know who have been to both say Morocco is worse. Good luck with the Air France connection, as I said we had no problem. We were forced to take the bus, there was no option to walk. Other trips transferring through CDG I know I have walked, I suppose it depends on what gates you are coming and going through.
otherchelebi - Your insights are very interesting, not drivel at all. We did really enjoy Istanbul and I'm very glad I went. I'm sure with a city that large there are many very nice neighborhoods. We did see mostly the touristy areas but how is a tourist to know of other areas? I did extensive research, read many many guidebooks before my trip and really don't recall reading about the areas you mention. I feel in 8 days I saw a lot more than many tourists who are only there for two or three days. I didn't mean to make your city sound bad, I was just giving my honest opinion. I have been to London, Paris, etc and many other places and I'm sure only saw parts of those cities, despite repeated visits. But the impressions I get in them are just a bit different from what I saw in Istanbul. When ever anyone, on this forum or in "real life" asks me about Istanbul I say they should definitely go. But I think a good trip report gives a balanced view of any place, and that includes what one doesn't like as well as what one does like.
Luisah - I have not been to Egypt or Morocco so can't compare. People I know who have been to both say Morocco is worse. Good luck with the Air France connection, as I said we had no problem. We were forced to take the bus, there was no option to walk. Other trips transferring through CDG I know I have walked, I suppose it depends on what gates you are coming and going through.
otherchelebi - Your insights are very interesting, not drivel at all. We did really enjoy Istanbul and I'm very glad I went. I'm sure with a city that large there are many very nice neighborhoods. We did see mostly the touristy areas but how is a tourist to know of other areas? I did extensive research, read many many guidebooks before my trip and really don't recall reading about the areas you mention. I feel in 8 days I saw a lot more than many tourists who are only there for two or three days. I didn't mean to make your city sound bad, I was just giving my honest opinion. I have been to London, Paris, etc and many other places and I'm sure only saw parts of those cities, despite repeated visits. But the impressions I get in them are just a bit different from what I saw in Istanbul. When ever anyone, on this forum or in "real life" asks me about Istanbul I say they should definitely go. But I think a good trip report gives a balanced view of any place, and that includes what one doesn't like as well as what one does like.
