Is Naples always so scary?
Jul 23rd, 2004, 07:10 PM
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My month in Italy 2 years ago brought with it one profoundly sour note, and that was my day in Naples.
I was in Sorrento for 9 days, and had seen Pompei and Herculaneum, and really wanted to see the Archeological museum in Naples as a follow-up. If you are a female, and traveling alone via public transport, AVOID IT! Unfortunately, by taking the train in, you have to transfer to a subway line, which takes you to a particularly seedy area of town. I got out of the subway, and immediately to the left of it was a café, which sold pizza slices, so I decided to pick up a slice to eat on the way to the museum. The slice was 1.20 euro, so I gave the cashier 5.20, requesting 4 euro change. He proceeds to hand me back 1 euro, then a 2 euro coin, then 2 x 20 cent coins, and a 10 cent coin. I?m confused, so I?m pointing to the money on the counter, indicating that he short- changed me. As this is happening (and my wallet is open), I feel the fingers of a man to the right of the counter (not in line) slip into my wallet, and I see him take out a 20 euro bill. Long story short, an argument ensues, he denies flatly that it?s my money (after I saw him take it) and no one did or said a thing. Particularly the cashier, who was clearly working with the pickpocket. The pickpocket and I start physically fighting for the money until I (surprisingly) grabbed his hand with the bill in it, and dug my nails into his hand, at which point, he let go of the bill. I walked out, cursing, floored that this could happen after being in Naples a full 5 minutes. I had been warned by friends about the crime rate in Naples, but thought I was immune to it.
At the very most, another 10 minutes later, I?d eaten the pizza, and was walking (still very shaken) to the Archeological museum up the street. From nowhere, a man rushes me from behind, and grabs a strap hanging from my knapsack, and starts running. I?m running on shock, anger and adrenaline now, and I grab the neck of my bag, and am holding on for dear life as the man (and it was clearly a different man from the one in the café
is running at a frenzied pace. I can?t keep up. My sandals somehow come off, I?m running barefoot on this very large street with plenty of people, trying to keep up with this guy. He jerks the strap forward harshly as he runs, and my entire body falls forward, smashing my knees. He proceeds to drag me for quite a few meters on my elbows and knees, and I?m still not letting go. By sheer luck, the strap eventually rips off, leaving him running with nothing more than a strap, and me huddled crumpled on the ground with my knapsack under me, otherwise intact. (there was a Pentax camera inside, along with 200 euros.)
I?m thankfully picked up from the street by these wonderful elderly women who spoke no English, and we had quickly discovered that my forearms and right leg were totally bloody, and that I?d lost a good couple of layers of skin from being dragged along the concrete. My left knee had become quickly black from excessive bruising. A man at the scene called the police on his cell, and they were thankfully there in a few minutes. I was brought to the hospital, treated, my arms and right leg totally covered in bandages (health care there is free to tourists with emergencies, by the way!) and then sent to the police. With the help of a translator, I gave a statement, had it printed out, and looked, to no avail, through mug shot books. The cops were great and drove me to the train station so that I could go straight back to Sorrento; as I didn?t want to test my fate, after two incidents in 10 minutes.
It?s too bad, as I understand that Naples is actually quite beautiful, but it warrants staying away from unsafe areas; especially if you are a woman traveling alone.
I was in Sorrento for 9 days, and had seen Pompei and Herculaneum, and really wanted to see the Archeological museum in Naples as a follow-up. If you are a female, and traveling alone via public transport, AVOID IT! Unfortunately, by taking the train in, you have to transfer to a subway line, which takes you to a particularly seedy area of town. I got out of the subway, and immediately to the left of it was a café, which sold pizza slices, so I decided to pick up a slice to eat on the way to the museum. The slice was 1.20 euro, so I gave the cashier 5.20, requesting 4 euro change. He proceeds to hand me back 1 euro, then a 2 euro coin, then 2 x 20 cent coins, and a 10 cent coin. I?m confused, so I?m pointing to the money on the counter, indicating that he short- changed me. As this is happening (and my wallet is open), I feel the fingers of a man to the right of the counter (not in line) slip into my wallet, and I see him take out a 20 euro bill. Long story short, an argument ensues, he denies flatly that it?s my money (after I saw him take it) and no one did or said a thing. Particularly the cashier, who was clearly working with the pickpocket. The pickpocket and I start physically fighting for the money until I (surprisingly) grabbed his hand with the bill in it, and dug my nails into his hand, at which point, he let go of the bill. I walked out, cursing, floored that this could happen after being in Naples a full 5 minutes. I had been warned by friends about the crime rate in Naples, but thought I was immune to it.
At the very most, another 10 minutes later, I?d eaten the pizza, and was walking (still very shaken) to the Archeological museum up the street. From nowhere, a man rushes me from behind, and grabs a strap hanging from my knapsack, and starts running. I?m running on shock, anger and adrenaline now, and I grab the neck of my bag, and am holding on for dear life as the man (and it was clearly a different man from the one in the café
is running at a frenzied pace. I can?t keep up. My sandals somehow come off, I?m running barefoot on this very large street with plenty of people, trying to keep up with this guy. He jerks the strap forward harshly as he runs, and my entire body falls forward, smashing my knees. He proceeds to drag me for quite a few meters on my elbows and knees, and I?m still not letting go. By sheer luck, the strap eventually rips off, leaving him running with nothing more than a strap, and me huddled crumpled on the ground with my knapsack under me, otherwise intact. (there was a Pentax camera inside, along with 200 euros.) I?m thankfully picked up from the street by these wonderful elderly women who spoke no English, and we had quickly discovered that my forearms and right leg were totally bloody, and that I?d lost a good couple of layers of skin from being dragged along the concrete. My left knee had become quickly black from excessive bruising. A man at the scene called the police on his cell, and they were thankfully there in a few minutes. I was brought to the hospital, treated, my arms and right leg totally covered in bandages (health care there is free to tourists with emergencies, by the way!) and then sent to the police. With the help of a translator, I gave a statement, had it printed out, and looked, to no avail, through mug shot books. The cops were great and drove me to the train station so that I could go straight back to Sorrento; as I didn?t want to test my fate, after two incidents in 10 minutes.
It?s too bad, as I understand that Naples is actually quite beautiful, but it warrants staying away from unsafe areas; especially if you are a woman traveling alone.
Jul 23rd, 2004, 08:11 PM
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It is very disheartening Mnatella and Tania to hear your stories. 
I will be travelling solo and am considering Naples, although these stories are quite scary...
I will probably still go because I don't want to judge an entire city by a few incidents,and want to experience this different way of life that everyone is raving about. I know I (and many others) thank you for the warnings. By sharing, your experiences won't have been for nothing.
It's sad, but unfortunately, females especially need to be vary wary if we choose to travel alone (anywhere).
Patricia
I will be travelling solo and am considering Naples, although these stories are quite scary...I will probably still go because I don't want to judge an entire city by a few incidents,and want to experience this different way of life that everyone is raving about. I know I (and many others) thank you for the warnings. By sharing, your experiences won't have been for nothing.
It's sad, but unfortunately, females especially need to be vary wary if we choose to travel alone (anywhere).
Patricia
Jul 23rd, 2004, 10:12 PM
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I am so sorry that happened to you, Tania, it must have been very scary.
My friends in Sorrento explained to me that the area in and especially around Napoli has become a center for refugees who cannot find work. They told me that they have to make their living by stealing and other illegal means and that tourists are easy money. They warned me as a woman to be very careful and not to wear jewelry, carry bags, etc. in Napoli.
On the other hand, I can see from your post that women helped you, the man called the police and the police were polite to you. So Napoli, like most port cities, is filled with all kinds of people.
My friends in Sorrento explained to me that the area in and especially around Napoli has become a center for refugees who cannot find work. They told me that they have to make their living by stealing and other illegal means and that tourists are easy money. They warned me as a woman to be very careful and not to wear jewelry, carry bags, etc. in Napoli.
On the other hand, I can see from your post that women helped you, the man called the police and the police were polite to you. So Napoli, like most port cities, is filled with all kinds of people.
Jul 24th, 2004, 03:25 AM
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We arrived in Napoli on a Monday afternoon when the traffic was at its craziest. It took us over an hour to get from the airport to Molo Beverello for our ferry to Capri. Talk about chaos. It was unbelievable. That was quite an introduction to the city and not a very good impresssion at that.
We returned to Naples on a Sunday when almost every shop and business was closed. That was strange to me, even after spending 2 weeks in Italy. Normally, there would at least be a few shops and restaurants open, especially during the lunch hour. However, we couldn't even find a gelato stand open. The streets were also devoid of traffic and the city was practically deserted. None of the chaos and noise we first encountered. Not entirely a bad situation I thought to myself
On the short walk from the ferries to our hotel and later to the Natural Museum though we were stunned by the amount of trash and graffiti throughout the city. What a pig sty. It seems like no one has any pride in his city. There was even a dead cat lying on the ground, obviously there for several days. We were used to seeing clothes hanging out to dry out of windows in other parts of Italy but this was the worst slum I've ever encountered.
As we checked out of our hotel the following morning the desk clerk told me to be sure to only pay the metered fare. At the airport the meter read 13.5 euro. I thought I was giving the taxi driver a nice tip by offering him 20 euros. He, instead, shoved the money back into my hands and kept insisting in very broken English, "Trenta Euros, trenta euros" which I gathered to mean 30 euros. I kept telling him no way and he kept yelling louder and louder something about a special surcharge at night and for our 2 luggage. Finally, exasperated with him and determined not to pay him another cent I turned around and loudly said, "Where is the policia?". That did the trick. He quickly grabbed my money and took off.
My wife and I had a good laugh afterwards but I wasn't about to have a lousy taxi driver ruin what was otherwise a beautiful 2 week vacation in bella Italia.
We returned to Naples on a Sunday when almost every shop and business was closed. That was strange to me, even after spending 2 weeks in Italy. Normally, there would at least be a few shops and restaurants open, especially during the lunch hour. However, we couldn't even find a gelato stand open. The streets were also devoid of traffic and the city was practically deserted. None of the chaos and noise we first encountered. Not entirely a bad situation I thought to myself
On the short walk from the ferries to our hotel and later to the Natural Museum though we were stunned by the amount of trash and graffiti throughout the city. What a pig sty. It seems like no one has any pride in his city. There was even a dead cat lying on the ground, obviously there for several days. We were used to seeing clothes hanging out to dry out of windows in other parts of Italy but this was the worst slum I've ever encountered.
As we checked out of our hotel the following morning the desk clerk told me to be sure to only pay the metered fare. At the airport the meter read 13.5 euro. I thought I was giving the taxi driver a nice tip by offering him 20 euros. He, instead, shoved the money back into my hands and kept insisting in very broken English, "Trenta Euros, trenta euros" which I gathered to mean 30 euros. I kept telling him no way and he kept yelling louder and louder something about a special surcharge at night and for our 2 luggage. Finally, exasperated with him and determined not to pay him another cent I turned around and loudly said, "Where is the policia?". That did the trick. He quickly grabbed my money and took off.
My wife and I had a good laugh afterwards but I wasn't about to have a lousy taxi driver ruin what was otherwise a beautiful 2 week vacation in bella Italia.
Jul 24th, 2004, 06:14 AM
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Well, capo, didn't see "your" museum in Naples but was once fascinated by the archeological findings from Pompei at the National Archeological Museum. Here is where one does find fascinating art
Ozarks Bill
Ozarks Bill
Jul 24th, 2004, 07:21 AM
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Sorry about the bad experiences but my daughter and I loved Naples. We were there over a Thanksgiving Holiday. We spend 3 days and 2 nights in Naples close to the waterfront. We wore money belts and never carried pocketbooks but I did carry a small day pack with a map and camera and extra film. We never had the slightest problem anywhere we went and we really explored alot! We even walked well up into the spanish quarter. I did not particularly like the train station but right outside there is so much within just a few blocks anyway you go.
Both nights we were out walking around well past midnight just enjoying the people and the sights lit up. Every person we encountered was tremendously helpful and kind. A couple of people went so far, I believe they would have stood on their heads and mimed for up if they thought it would have helped.
We are currently planning another trip and my daughter (now 12 years old) has asked if we could fly in and out of Naples just so we can have more time there.
I think you have to excerise common sense anywhere you are but I would not miss Naples. The museums, churches, small shops, views over the bay, FOOD, etc. It is all worth it. It is truely a very vibrant alive and colorful Italian city. I is not as influenced by tourism as many places in Italy.
Happy Travels,
April
Both nights we were out walking around well past midnight just enjoying the people and the sights lit up. Every person we encountered was tremendously helpful and kind. A couple of people went so far, I believe they would have stood on their heads and mimed for up if they thought it would have helped.
We are currently planning another trip and my daughter (now 12 years old) has asked if we could fly in and out of Naples just so we can have more time there.
I think you have to excerise common sense anywhere you are but I would not miss Naples. The museums, churches, small shops, views over the bay, FOOD, etc. It is all worth it. It is truely a very vibrant alive and colorful Italian city. I is not as influenced by tourism as many places in Italy.
Happy Travels,
April
Jul 24th, 2004, 07:27 AM
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aneckc, I am sure the driver padded the amount but there is a surcharge for early morning pick up, night charges and for luggage. Your hotel should have warned you about that too. If possible,have the people at the hotel talk directly to the driver as he is loading your luggage if this situation comes up again.
Jul 24th, 2004, 08:25 AM
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My niece and I stopped in Naples via train to see the museum in May--my first visit to the city. It did have a completely different feel from Rome, Florence, or Venice. The impression we got was noisy, crowded, and dirty--not menacing, but not inviting for a pleasant vacation.
The train station was crowded and a little seedy, but the police presence in all the major stations appears very high now. We went down to the metro--several helpful workers there who said their job was to prevent people from getting in without paying--looked difficult with the type of entry they have. Subway seemed dirty with lots of interesting characters as in many older cities. Emerging into the traffic, construction, and generally drab neighborhood of the museum was not any better.
We did ask in broken Italian for directions and understood "down there." After a pleasant visit to the museum we crossed to a pedestrian mall for a nice lunch. Then we followed an abbreviated walk from the Rick Steves book to return to the train station. The noise, traffic, litter, etc. along the main street certainly made an impression as did the winding streets with small shops as we turned toward the station. We got a little off track and didn't like the looks of the area, so we asked a policeman how to get to the central train station and got a "down there" to go toward the west (I think) when we thought it was direct to go south from where we were. We passed a museum store and stopped in to check in Engligh. The clerk said the policeman gave good advice--go down to the traffic light and follow the main road to circle around, don't go direct; it is "not so good there."
We found the station and our bags, then the train to Sorrento. Returning we just changed trains and did not spend any time in Naples.
So, my experience was limited to one day, but my impression was that it is a very vibrant but not very pretty city. There is lots of poverty, noise, and traffic, but also some interesting sights and nice people. But I don't feel the pull to go back like I do to cities like San Francisco that have their problems but attractions that outweigh them.
The train station was crowded and a little seedy, but the police presence in all the major stations appears very high now. We went down to the metro--several helpful workers there who said their job was to prevent people from getting in without paying--looked difficult with the type of entry they have. Subway seemed dirty with lots of interesting characters as in many older cities. Emerging into the traffic, construction, and generally drab neighborhood of the museum was not any better.
We did ask in broken Italian for directions and understood "down there." After a pleasant visit to the museum we crossed to a pedestrian mall for a nice lunch. Then we followed an abbreviated walk from the Rick Steves book to return to the train station. The noise, traffic, litter, etc. along the main street certainly made an impression as did the winding streets with small shops as we turned toward the station. We got a little off track and didn't like the looks of the area, so we asked a policeman how to get to the central train station and got a "down there" to go toward the west (I think) when we thought it was direct to go south from where we were. We passed a museum store and stopped in to check in Engligh. The clerk said the policeman gave good advice--go down to the traffic light and follow the main road to circle around, don't go direct; it is "not so good there."
We found the station and our bags, then the train to Sorrento. Returning we just changed trains and did not spend any time in Naples.
So, my experience was limited to one day, but my impression was that it is a very vibrant but not very pretty city. There is lots of poverty, noise, and traffic, but also some interesting sights and nice people. But I don't feel the pull to go back like I do to cities like San Francisco that have their problems but attractions that outweigh them.
Jul 24th, 2004, 08:43 AM
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Tania,
Sorry to hear about your bad experience. I also salute your pluck.
Kay
> my impression was that it is a very vibrant but not very pretty city.<
Please go back for a couple of days, when you can have a more liesurely look.
Beneath the accumulated dirt and grime is some really good 18th and 19th century architecture.
I also urge everyone who visits Naples to see "The Veiled Christ" at the Capella Sansevero.
Sorry to hear about your bad experience. I also salute your pluck.
Kay
> my impression was that it is a very vibrant but not very pretty city.<
Please go back for a couple of days, when you can have a more liesurely look.
Beneath the accumulated dirt and grime is some really good 18th and 19th century architecture.
I also urge everyone who visits Naples to see "The Veiled Christ" at the Capella Sansevero.
Aug 6th, 2004, 11:48 AM
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The Naples area in general is not the neat pristine place of rome or other northern italy cities. Many of the train stations do indeed seem and some are seedy, but do not let that color your appriciation for the magnificent city (esp. downtown) Naples is.
Aug 6th, 2004, 11:59 AM
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i would have to agree with the negative reviews here. the only place from which i truly enjoyed naples was from the top floor of the hotel. once we got down into the streets it was a very ... uncomfortable experience.
Aug 6th, 2004, 12:30 PM
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bx3, I have to agree with you. I didn't feel comfortable in Naples. We stayed in a Hotel, which I think was called Jolly Rodger, or something like. We were in a group, and upon arrival to the hotel, the gypsies descended upon us. Didn't like the graffiti everywhere, and certainly didn't feel safe walking the streets at night.
I must say I did enjoy the National Museum in Naples, and also the expansive water & harbour views from our hotel bedroom.
But having been to Naples I don't think I will every go there again, would now like to visit the Italian Lakes area.
I must say I did enjoy the National Museum in Naples, and also the expansive water & harbour views from our hotel bedroom.
But having been to Naples I don't think I will every go there again, would now like to visit the Italian Lakes area.
Aug 7th, 2004, 12:49 AM
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Tania, I am so sorry to read of your frightening experience in Naples. It's so true that a female traveling alone is often perceived as an easy target, but I think you gave as good as you got, and I celebrate your stubbornness in refusing to let that thief get away with your bag! I'm sorry you got hurt, but glad you were able to experience the inborn kindness of many locals, shown by those women who helped you in the street, and I pray nothing ever mars your future travels again.
I'm also a solo female traveler, and I've been lucky to have enjoyed several daytrips exploring Naples without this kind of incident, but I had to call on some survival skills learned over the years, and got great advice from various people in Sorrento before going there about what to watch out for.
I adore the city of Naples, even with all the noise, chaos, and grit, it is a city with a huge heart and soul, true to itself, and filled with wonderful surpises.
I'm also a solo female traveler, and I've been lucky to have enjoyed several daytrips exploring Naples without this kind of incident, but I had to call on some survival skills learned over the years, and got great advice from various people in Sorrento before going there about what to watch out for.
I adore the city of Naples, even with all the noise, chaos, and grit, it is a city with a huge heart and soul, true to itself, and filled with wonderful surpises.
Aug 7th, 2004, 04:23 AM
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I do not see how anyone can judge an entire city based on one building. Yes, it's true the Naples train station is seedy. But it's just a train station! I didn't like it much either, but do not see any basis for drawing conclusions about the rest of a city based on an experience in just one building.
Aug 7th, 2004, 05:47 AM
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ok-
i'm going "through" Naples (ferry from Palermo), arriving at the port. I saw the message posted here, from Passantd, and can't find a translation for his quote --"non Toccarme". Fellow travelers--what does it mean? sounds like i might need to know---hehe
surfingmomma
i'm going "through" Naples (ferry from Palermo), arriving at the port. I saw the message posted here, from Passantd, and can't find a translation for his quote --"non Toccarme". Fellow travelers--what does it mean? sounds like i might need to know---hehe
surfingmomma
Aug 7th, 2004, 08:18 AM
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"Non toccarmi" would translate to "Don't touch me."
I would be more forceful and loudly say "Va via!" or "Go away!" (It's something one normally says to a dog, so I wouldn't use it unless I really felt that the person I was addressing had malicious intentions.)
I would be more forceful and loudly say "Va via!" or "Go away!" (It's something one normally says to a dog, so I wouldn't use it unless I really felt that the person I was addressing had malicious intentions.)
