We are planning a 8 night trip to the Dordogne area next spring. We are flying in and out of Toulouse. It is a difficult task to decide where to visit outside of the usual...Sarlat, Rocamadour and the small towns around them. I would also like to see Albi and Cordes. I am wondering if it is worthwhile to visit Limoge. I am finding the scheduling difficult also because we are arriving in Toulouse on Wed. I would like to see the market in Sarlat on Sat. I am not sure where to spend the first night...in Albi possibly, or to try to drive to or close to Sarlat the first day. Would anyone recommend staying overnight in Cahors or Gourdon? Idealy I would like to see St. Cirq and do the loop to Figeac...see Rocamadour and do the loop to St Cere and see Sarlat and do that loop (as per the green guide). Is there any other areas you would recomomend? With only 8 nights I don't want to be constantly in the car, but I would like to see as much as possible. Any suggestions? Thanks.

No to Limoges, except if you're interest in Limoges porcelain and the ceramics museum. Otherwise uneventful but as usual nice regional town. Do some research on Brantome, just north of Perigueux, to me was a charmer in a neat setting.

Brantome does sound nice. Did you stay there? Did you also visit Perigueux on your way there?

I definitely wouldn't bother with Limoges on an 8-day trip (or even an 18-day one).

Here's how I would split your trip up, assuming you actually have 8 full nights in the area and that you aren't going to linger in Toulouse:

Take the A68 directly from Toulouse to Albi (Gaillac is right there on the fringe if you want to make a quick stop in that wine town). Have lunch in Albi and stroll around (you can see the major sights in a couple of hours). Then take the D600 to Cordes-sur-Ciel and park and take the little shuttle bus to the old medieval hilltop area. Wander around here for an hour or so, then get back on the D922 to Villefranche-de-Rouergue and spend the night there or nearby.

Next day, drive to St-Cirq-Lapopie on the D911, park and visit the town (about an hour or so is all you need), then have some lunch and cross the river to Cabrerets and visit the Pech-Merle chromatic caves. It's just a hort drive from there to Cahors, which is worth a couple of hours, too, or even an overnight if you don't want to pack too much into each day. Or, you could continue and spend the night in Gourdon, a very nice little hilltop town.

Next day you could zoom up the new stretch of the A20 to Souillac and do a circuit of Rocamadour, the Gouffre de Padirac, and even Martel and Collonges-la-Rouge if you're feeling ambitious. You could stay in or near Rocamadour (the Domaine de la Rhue is a lovely property).

Next morning you could head early to Sarlat for the market and settle in the area for the next four days. There's more than enough to do and see there to keep you plenty busy.

If you really want to include Figeac and St-Céré (both great places)you could revise this suggestion to fit them in, but do take a careful look at the map - the roads are small and to fit in everything will require some backtracking or going out of your way, and inony 8 days Í think you'll have to make some choices.

Bonne route!

I prefer the Saturday market in Périgueux to the one in Sarlat.

Hi cp,

Excellent advice from St. Cirq.

>Cordes-sur-Ciel

Oh, St Cirq. I thought I had my trip through "France profond" completed.

Now I have to go back to the old drawing board.

Thanks for the suggestions. We arrive at noon so I imagine we could be in Albi by 2. Cordes seems to be about 1/2 hour away from there. I wonder if it would be pushing it to make Villefranche-de-Rouergue for that night? It seems like if my french is good translating, they have a market on Thursday morning in Villefranche-de-Rouergue, which would be good to see. We may have to stay overnight in Cordes?? What do you think?

Michael, Why do you like the Périgueux market better?

Cordes = touristy; prefer nearby Bruniquel and Puycelci.

Albi = heaven.

Call me crazy but I loathe Cahors.

Less touristy, as is the town.

I would probably concur about Limoges. We have spent several days there as part of a Sister Cities visit and while that was interesting, the town is not very "stimulating". And the prices of the china is not that great either. We did visit Oradur sur Glane which was an experience.

I, too, would skip Limoges. It's just not that interesting. Nothing you can't see somewhere else, unless you are into the porcelain.
Are you spending time in Toulouse? It's a wonderful city with many things to see and do.
Albi is nice, Cordes is a must. I would not stay the night in Cahors.
Sorry for my short replies, it's early and i'm not done with my coffee yet

Within the last few years, we've vacationed 2 weeks near Cordes, and 4 weeks in the Dordogne. We're going back for 4 more weeks in the Dordogne in Sept.

St Cirq gave you a nice itinerary - here are a few additional comments.

Albi is one of our favorite towns, but remember, almost all stores will be closed until 3 or 3:30. When leaving Albi (or before going there if you plan to hit Albi around the lunch closings), stop at the small village of Castelnau de Montmiral - it's one of our favorite Bastide towns (I prefer it over Gaillac).

I would not stay overnight in Villefranche (too far - many cuter towns/areas in between) - I would stay in Cordes, or at the hotel associated with one of our 2 favotrite restaurants in the area (Les Gorges de Aveyron in Montricoux). Early on Thurs, drive to Villefranche for the very picturesque morning market. Visit my wife's favorite houseware store in Villefranche (Acuarela at 21 rue de la Republic).

I'm not a fan of Cahors at all - compared Albi and Figeac, I think it doesn't stand up (been there 3 times). It does, however, have an excellent Saturday market, but you won't be there on a Saturday.

Sarlat is a very scenic town, but don't go there on market day if you want to enjoy the lovely architecture. All the market stands with their umbrellas hide the wonderful building facades - plus the crowds are horrendous during tourist season. If you want to visit a market in the Dordogne, go to the Sunday market in St Cyprien or the one in Le Bugue on Tues or Sat - both are less touristy. Visit Sarlat on a Sunday or Monday when there are fewer tourists. Or better yet, have dinner there one evening and enjoy the town with all the gas lights lit up.

Make reservations for Pech Merle a couple of days in advance.

I have a 35+ page itinerary on the Languedoc region, which includes the area between Toulouse & the Dordogne. I also have a 20+ page itinerary on the Dordogne. Both include our favorite sites, towns, drives, markets, and restaurants. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy of 1 or both.

Stu Dudley
San Mateo (San Francisco), Ca.

>>>> I would stay in Cordes, or at the hotel associated with one of our 2 favotrite restaurants in the area (Les Gorges de Aveyron in Montricoux).<<

Oops - Error. The Gorges de l'Aveyron is one my two favorite restaurants in the area, but it does not have rooms. The other "favorite" restaurant with the rooms (spacious, according to the Michelin Guide) is Hostellerie les Jardins des Thermes in the town of Feneyrols, which is just upstream from the Montricoux in the Gorges de l'Aveyron area. We've dined at both places twice.

Therefore, what I would do is to leave the Toulouse airport towards Albi on the A68 (well marked). Take the #9 exit off the A68 freeway & visit Castelnaux de Montmiral(if it's earlier than 1:30). Then head to Albi, park in the undergound garage & spend about 3 hours in Albi (very well marked walking tour in town). Visit the Toulouse Lautrec museum, chateau, & the Cathedral. Then take the D600 to Cordes & visit. Continue on the D600 till it hits the Aveyron river & head west on the D115 to Feneyrols & stay at the Hostellerie. Explore the Gorges de l'Aveyron region a little if you have time left in the day - Feneyrols is right in the middle of it. Get the Michelin Green Guide for Languedoc to followed the suggested driving itinerary.

Early Thurs head to the market in Villefranche. From there, visit Figeac, and then either follow the beautiful Cele river, or the Lot river west to St Cirq Lapopie & stay there & visit Pech Merle caves. Next morning,head north & visit Rocamadour, Geoffre de Padirac, Loubresse, Autoire, & St Cere. Stay in St Cere. Early next morning, visit Casteleau Bretenoux castle (this will take all morning - at least till 11:45). Then follow the Dordogne west, stopping at Carennac (beautiful), and Martel. Perhaps explore hotel Chateau la Treyne. Souillac is nothing, but Carlux is worth a quick stop. As you approach the Cingle de Montfort, get the camera ready for a nice photo of the chateu.

Stu Dudley
San Mateo (San Francisco), Ca

While in Albi consider visiting the Toulouse Lautrec Museum. You can also take a short ride out in to the countryside and vist his ancestral home. I recall seeing the pencil marks on the wall where someone was measuring his height.

Thanks for all the replys. I have to get out my map and books and see what makes the most sence. I am thinking that maybe I shouldn't tie my schedule into being in Sarlat for the market since there are so many others in other towns. Would that be a mistake. I have also read about fairs in certain towns like figeac on the second and fouth Sat... What would they have different at a fair as opposed to a market. Thanks

In Albi, there is a beautiful garden behind the Toulouse Latrec Museum. And the cathedral is definitely not to be missed.

In Cordes, we have stayed at the Grand Ecuyer and can recommend it. The restaurant failed to impress, although they have a Michelin star.

I definitely wouldn't plan my itinerary around being at the Saturday market in Sarlat. The Wednesday one is almost as good, and as noted there are excellent markets all over the area, many with the same vendors you'd find in Sarlat (Tuesday, Le Bugue; Sunday, St-Cyprien; Thursday, Lalinde; Wednesday, Montignac; Saturday, Belvès).

Fairs are certainly different from markets, but there might be some typical market vendors at them as well. Fairs are usually thematic - brocantes, antiquités, circuses, flowers, etc.

Will the shops be closed from 2-4 or do they close earlier. Also when is the latest lunch would be served? What town or city do you think has the best Saturday market? Also do you know if in Albi the Toulouse Lautrec museum is open all day or if it closes in the afternoon too. Thanks again

Hi CP,

Go to www.musee-toulouse-lautrec.com