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Is Hakkari really "open for tourism"?

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In Hürriyet there's an article - Kurdish peace bid allows for rediscovery of prehistorical paintings in Hakkari - http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/kurdish-peace-bid-allows-for-rediscovery-of-prehistorical-paintings-in-hakkari.aspx?pageID=238&nID=73321&NewsCatID=375

And I see this Russian guy, Ivan, has recently gone by motorbike to Hakkari and then the D400 near the border with Iraq and Syria - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1018740
He said "Gendarmes sometimes check local cars.
Near the border with Iraq, checked my passport.
PS. were very kind, drink tea, showed the Russian machine guns and AK :)
Along the border with Syria gendarmes no, there freeway."

The UK Foreign Office has the region as "advise against all but essential travel" - https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/turkey

I fancy going to see the rock art at Trişin Yaylası, probably motorbike, maybe June next year. And I'm thinking that it looks pretty OK to do this. It's only 200km from Van city to Hakkari. I guess there are not many hotels around.

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