Ireland Trip Report May/June 2004
Jun 6th, 2004, 01:32 PM
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Ireland Trip Report May/June 2004
Message: Had a great time celebrating our 35th wedding anniversary and my birthday. The weather was great with sunshine and mild temperatures most days. Met some wonderful people, saw some beautiful sights, and thoroughly enjoyed the Irish hospitality. We stayed in Doolin (2 nights), Dingle, Killarney, Kenmare, Kinsale, Tramore, Cashel, Clifden (2 nights), Westport, Galway, and Ennis. Drove over 1000 miles but had plenty of time to explore city sites, ruins of old castles and churches, natural wonders, fine old pubs, and great restaurants. We had confirmed reservations for the first two nights but after that we were on our own. We had no trouble getting a room in B&Bs that were within easy walking distances of the towns we were visiting.
Saturday May 22: Arrived Shannon from BWI on Aer Lingus. Great flight but didn't sleep. Rented car from Hertz, which accepted Platinum MasterCard for CDW insurance. Had nice breakfast in Ennis at Bank Street Cafe. The town was busy with the farmer's market--a great test of my driving ability. Since it was a bright sunny day, we decided to do some touring on our way to our Doolin B&B. Walked along the Cliffs of Moher and drove along the Burren Coast to Black Head. The road to Black Head was extremely narrow with lots of sharp turns, but the sights were great. Stayed at the Seascape B&B in Doolin. Our room was nice, quiet, and clean. MaryJo O'Connell was extremely gracious. Spent the evening with a couple from Wales at McDermott's Pub, which is within easy walking distance of the Seascape. Crashed about midnight.
Sunday May 23: We took the 9:30 AM ferry from Doolin to Aran Islands--Inis Oirr and then on to Inis Mor. Stop on Inis Oirr was only about 1 hour but had time to walk up to the ruins. On Inis Mor, we hired a van to give us a tour of the island because the sites are spread out. We shared the van with a couple from England and had a great time spending the day with them. The view from Dun Aengus was fantastic. Our van driver was an interesting character who added color to our visit. It was another beautiful day and we got burned from the sun and wind. Returned to Doolin about 5:00 PM. Ate dinner in Lisdoonvarna at the Royal Spa Hotel. Food was good, reasonable, and plentiful. Spent the evening at McDermott's Pub with some very nice people from St. Louis, Iowa, Switzerland, and Belgium. The whole pub sang happy birthday for me. Returned to the Seascape B&B for our second night. MaryJo, at the request of our son, had purchsed a bottle of wine for my birthday and had it waiting in the room for us. It was a great day and a memorable birthday.
Monday May 24: Drove to Dingle via the Killimer to Tarbert ferry. Toured the Dingle Peninsula following the route recommended by Rick Steves. The scenery was beautiful. Stopped to see the beehive huts and other sites mentioned by Steves. Stayed at the Dingle Heights B&B, which is within easy walking distance to the center of Dingle. Bridie Fitzgerald, the proprietor, was very pleasant and helpful. Our room had a beautiful view overlooking Dingle Bay. I would definately stay there again. Dinner was at McGillacuddy's. The food was very good and reasonably priced and the service was prompt even though the place was full. The stawberry rubarb crumble was the best we had anywhere. Enjoyed the evening music and drinks at Fitzgerald's Bar next to St. James Church. Another late night!
Tuesday May 25: Drove from Dingle to Killarney. Had planned to spend the night in Kenmare and backtrack to Killarney but after driving to Ladies View Viewpoint on N71 we decided not to drive N71 any further because it is very narrow and winding in spots. We stayed at the Harp B&B on Muckross Road in Killarney. It was convenient to Killarney and very comfortable. We toured Killarney city, Muckross House and farm, and Killarney National Park. Tim, our jaunting car driver, was a wealth of information about the lakes, trees, and flowers. We crashed early that night.
Wednesday May 26: Drove to Kenmare via the Ring of Kerry. Although it was very scenic, we were more impressed with the Dingle Peninsula. Stopped in the scenic little town of Sneen for coffee and dessert. Met a couple from Massachusetts that we would meet again the last night of our trip. Stayed at the Whispering Pines B&B, which is a 2 minute walk from town. Mary Fitzgerald, our host, is a lovely person who keeps an immaculate house. Had dinner at Foley's--a little expensive but very good--and enjoyed the music in the pub afterwards. Foley's had the best traditional music of our trip.
More to follow later--
Saturday May 22: Arrived Shannon from BWI on Aer Lingus. Great flight but didn't sleep. Rented car from Hertz, which accepted Platinum MasterCard for CDW insurance. Had nice breakfast in Ennis at Bank Street Cafe. The town was busy with the farmer's market--a great test of my driving ability. Since it was a bright sunny day, we decided to do some touring on our way to our Doolin B&B. Walked along the Cliffs of Moher and drove along the Burren Coast to Black Head. The road to Black Head was extremely narrow with lots of sharp turns, but the sights were great. Stayed at the Seascape B&B in Doolin. Our room was nice, quiet, and clean. MaryJo O'Connell was extremely gracious. Spent the evening with a couple from Wales at McDermott's Pub, which is within easy walking distance of the Seascape. Crashed about midnight.
Sunday May 23: We took the 9:30 AM ferry from Doolin to Aran Islands--Inis Oirr and then on to Inis Mor. Stop on Inis Oirr was only about 1 hour but had time to walk up to the ruins. On Inis Mor, we hired a van to give us a tour of the island because the sites are spread out. We shared the van with a couple from England and had a great time spending the day with them. The view from Dun Aengus was fantastic. Our van driver was an interesting character who added color to our visit. It was another beautiful day and we got burned from the sun and wind. Returned to Doolin about 5:00 PM. Ate dinner in Lisdoonvarna at the Royal Spa Hotel. Food was good, reasonable, and plentiful. Spent the evening at McDermott's Pub with some very nice people from St. Louis, Iowa, Switzerland, and Belgium. The whole pub sang happy birthday for me. Returned to the Seascape B&B for our second night. MaryJo, at the request of our son, had purchsed a bottle of wine for my birthday and had it waiting in the room for us. It was a great day and a memorable birthday.
Monday May 24: Drove to Dingle via the Killimer to Tarbert ferry. Toured the Dingle Peninsula following the route recommended by Rick Steves. The scenery was beautiful. Stopped to see the beehive huts and other sites mentioned by Steves. Stayed at the Dingle Heights B&B, which is within easy walking distance to the center of Dingle. Bridie Fitzgerald, the proprietor, was very pleasant and helpful. Our room had a beautiful view overlooking Dingle Bay. I would definately stay there again. Dinner was at McGillacuddy's. The food was very good and reasonably priced and the service was prompt even though the place was full. The stawberry rubarb crumble was the best we had anywhere. Enjoyed the evening music and drinks at Fitzgerald's Bar next to St. James Church. Another late night!
Tuesday May 25: Drove from Dingle to Killarney. Had planned to spend the night in Kenmare and backtrack to Killarney but after driving to Ladies View Viewpoint on N71 we decided not to drive N71 any further because it is very narrow and winding in spots. We stayed at the Harp B&B on Muckross Road in Killarney. It was convenient to Killarney and very comfortable. We toured Killarney city, Muckross House and farm, and Killarney National Park. Tim, our jaunting car driver, was a wealth of information about the lakes, trees, and flowers. We crashed early that night.
Wednesday May 26: Drove to Kenmare via the Ring of Kerry. Although it was very scenic, we were more impressed with the Dingle Peninsula. Stopped in the scenic little town of Sneen for coffee and dessert. Met a couple from Massachusetts that we would meet again the last night of our trip. Stayed at the Whispering Pines B&B, which is a 2 minute walk from town. Mary Fitzgerald, our host, is a lovely person who keeps an immaculate house. Had dinner at Foley's--a little expensive but very good--and enjoyed the music in the pub afterwards. Foley's had the best traditional music of our trip.
More to follow later--
Jun 7th, 2004, 01:58 PM
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Thanks Robdaddy. Researched on and off over a couple of months. Did alot of research on the internet. We changed our itinerary several times based on comments at this web site and others. I was amazed at all the good information available over the internet.
Jun 8th, 2004, 07:35 AM
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Hi Bob:
Sorry you didn't make it to Kenmare. The bad news is that shortly after Ladies View, the road gets much better with much longer straight aways. I will admit, later in the afternoon you tend to meet bus after bus completing the RoK tour. It gets pretty crazy.
Bill
Sorry you didn't make it to Kenmare. The bad news is that shortly after Ladies View, the road gets much better with much longer straight aways. I will admit, later in the afternoon you tend to meet bus after bus completing the RoK tour. It gets pretty crazy.
Bill
Jun 8th, 2004, 09:37 AM
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Hello - I'm curious as to where you stayed in Cashel, Clifden, and Westport. I will be in those areas in a few weeks - I'm leaving June 17th for my trip. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks for your informative post!
Jun 11th, 2004, 08:44 PM
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acubsfan34, I highly recommend Rockside B&B in Cashel. It is right at the foot of the Rock of Cashel which is lit up at night. The Joys run a great B&B. Very clean, pretty and comfy. Right around the corner from town but very quiet at night.
Jun 12th, 2004, 05:08 AM
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Hi Acubsfan34,
Sorry for delay in responding. Spent the week in Tampa on business. In Cashel, we stayed at the "Twenthe" B&B, which is just off of N8 -- the Dublin/Cork road. The proprietress is Marian Lund who is very pleasant and accomodating. B&B was clean and quiet and within easy walk of the town and the Rock. Our room overlooked the Rock, which was impressive at night. In Clifden, we stayed at the Harbour Lodge on Beach Road. John Lydon was a great host. It has plenty of parking and is within easy walking distance of town. The Lodge sits high and we had a great view of the mountains and harbor from our room. The telephone number is (095)21665. Price was very good at only 27.50 Euros per person/per night. I have no recommendation for Westport. The husband of the proprietress who's B&B we stayed had recently passed away and she was making plans to sell and move. Hope this is helpful.
Sorry for delay in responding. Spent the week in Tampa on business. In Cashel, we stayed at the "Twenthe" B&B, which is just off of N8 -- the Dublin/Cork road. The proprietress is Marian Lund who is very pleasant and accomodating. B&B was clean and quiet and within easy walk of the town and the Rock. Our room overlooked the Rock, which was impressive at night. In Clifden, we stayed at the Harbour Lodge on Beach Road. John Lydon was a great host. It has plenty of parking and is within easy walking distance of town. The Lodge sits high and we had a great view of the mountains and harbor from our room. The telephone number is (095)21665. Price was very good at only 27.50 Euros per person/per night. I have no recommendation for Westport. The husband of the proprietress who's B&B we stayed had recently passed away and she was making plans to sell and move. Hope this is helpful.
Jun 12th, 2004, 07:33 PM
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Thursday May 27: Drove from Kenmare to Kinsale via N71. Scenic in spots but not all that memorable. We tried to stay at the Old Bakery B&B, at the suggestion of Ms. Fitzgerald, but it was full. The proprietress of the Old Bakery suggested that we try the Villa Maria, which was also nice and within walking distance of the town. June Sheehan, the proprietress of the Villa Maria, was very pleasant and helpful with suggestions. We encountered our first rain in Kinsale, but it wasn't until late evening and it didn't bother our evening at the White House Pub. Our impression is that Kinsale has received too much publicity from Rick Steeves and others and is overun by tourists. We were disappointed. The guests we met at the Villa Maria made our stay interesting. A couple from Dublin, who were on holiday, had a good sense of humor. Seeing the interaction between Ms. Sheehan and five Italian girls on holiday, only one could speak a little english, provided some funny moments--especially when the girls were negotiating for a good rate on two rooms.
Friday May 28: Drove from Kinsale to Tramore via Blarney. We were going to skip Blarney and drive straight to the Waterford area but were glad we made the slight detour. It was a beaufiful sunny day and we enjoyed seeing the Blarney Castle. My wife can say that she kissed the Blarney Stone. Tramore is south of Waterford and a beach community. It was too cool to test the water but we did enjoy walking along the strand. We stayed at the Seaview Lodge (Tel. 051-381122), which is advertized as a home away from home. It truly was. the proprietress, Frances Darcy, was wonderful. It was a sunny day and we took the opportunity to rest and sip wine in the conservatory. We spent a very enjoyable evening in the conservatory with a couple from Bonn, Germany. Since we had lived in Germany for four years prior to the unification, we enjoyed talking at length about the new and and old Germany.
Saturday May 29: We started the day at the Waterford Crystal Factory. The tour was very interesting, including the various trophies manufactured by Waterford. We shopped for Christmas and other presents which took some time. After leaving the factory, we drove to Cashel. In Cashel, we stayed at the Twenthe" B&B. Because we arrived and got our accomodations by early afternoon, we spent the rest of the day visiting the Rock of Cashel and the old monastery across the way. Both were very impressive. We had dinner at a local pub and called it an early evening because we could not find any pub with music.
Sunday May 30: Drove from Cashel to Clifden via Clonmacnois (near Athlone). Clonmacnois sits along the River Shannon in a serene environment. We were very glad that we included this stop in our itinerary. It was a bright sunny day and the setting was beautiful. The drive from Cashel to Clifden was very scenic. Mountains,lakes, large fields of harvested peat, sheep, and more sheep. We considered stopping in Galway rather than driving on to Clifden but decided to stop in Galway on the way back to Shannon. Stayed at the Harbour Lodge in Clifden. John Lydon, our host was very pleasant. He had recently retired and was enjoying his post retirement endeavors. Clifdon is a nice town with plenty of restaurants, pubs, and things to do. Its a good base of operation for Connemara.
More to follow later
Friday May 28: Drove from Kinsale to Tramore via Blarney. We were going to skip Blarney and drive straight to the Waterford area but were glad we made the slight detour. It was a beaufiful sunny day and we enjoyed seeing the Blarney Castle. My wife can say that she kissed the Blarney Stone. Tramore is south of Waterford and a beach community. It was too cool to test the water but we did enjoy walking along the strand. We stayed at the Seaview Lodge (Tel. 051-381122), which is advertized as a home away from home. It truly was. the proprietress, Frances Darcy, was wonderful. It was a sunny day and we took the opportunity to rest and sip wine in the conservatory. We spent a very enjoyable evening in the conservatory with a couple from Bonn, Germany. Since we had lived in Germany for four years prior to the unification, we enjoyed talking at length about the new and and old Germany.
Saturday May 29: We started the day at the Waterford Crystal Factory. The tour was very interesting, including the various trophies manufactured by Waterford. We shopped for Christmas and other presents which took some time. After leaving the factory, we drove to Cashel. In Cashel, we stayed at the Twenthe" B&B. Because we arrived and got our accomodations by early afternoon, we spent the rest of the day visiting the Rock of Cashel and the old monastery across the way. Both were very impressive. We had dinner at a local pub and called it an early evening because we could not find any pub with music.
Sunday May 30: Drove from Cashel to Clifden via Clonmacnois (near Athlone). Clonmacnois sits along the River Shannon in a serene environment. We were very glad that we included this stop in our itinerary. It was a bright sunny day and the setting was beautiful. The drive from Cashel to Clifden was very scenic. Mountains,lakes, large fields of harvested peat, sheep, and more sheep. We considered stopping in Galway rather than driving on to Clifden but decided to stop in Galway on the way back to Shannon. Stayed at the Harbour Lodge in Clifden. John Lydon, our host was very pleasant. He had recently retired and was enjoying his post retirement endeavors. Clifdon is a nice town with plenty of restaurants, pubs, and things to do. Its a good base of operation for Connemara.
More to follow later
Jun 13th, 2004, 10:47 AM
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Monday May 31: Took side trips from Clifden. Spent the morning at Kylemore Abbey. Despite the rain showers, the setting was beautiful. The azaleas were in full bloom and provided a splendid backdrop for the old castle. Don't miss the gardens, which are well worth the short bus ride from the abbey. Warmed up with a cup of soup (a meal in inself) and coffee at the old hotel in Roundstone. The drive along the sky road was nice but would have been more spectacular if the weather had cooperated. Returned to Clifden for dinner at EJ Kings. Took advantage of the early bird special and had a great meal at a reasonable price. The cheesecake with Bailey cream was to die for. Returned to EJ Kings for the evening entertainment and a few Guinnesses. Met a wonderful couple from London and, before we knew, it was 12:30 am and the pub was getting ready to close.
Tuesday June 1: Got a late start (can't rebound from late nights as quickly as we used to) and drove to Westport via Croagh Patrick. Walked off most of the Guinness from the night before. The view from Croagh Patrick was spectacular. The walk is steep and rocky. Returned from our adventure and had a early dinner in Westport at the Clew Bay Hotel. We shared two different deserts-- strawberry rhubarb crumble and cheezecake with Bailey's. The cheezecake was our favorite. Westport is a nice town with lots of restaurants, pubs, and stores. Returned to the Clew Bay for entertainment that evening and ran into a group touring by bus from England. We had a great time and they asked us to join their bus tour the following day. Since we were down to our last few days we had to say no to their offer. We were all disappointed to part company.
Wednesday June 2: We had planned to drive to Galway by a more direct route but the hostess of our B&B suggested that we take N5 to Castlebar and then follow N84 to Ballintubber to visit the Abbey. We're glad we followed the suggestion. The Abbey is the only church in Ireland where Catholic mass has been offered without a break for almost 800 years. The Abbey, set in a peacefull pastoral setting, is the starting point for pilgrimages to Croagh Patrick. After a few more stops along N84, we made our way to Galway. We found a B&B in the Salthill section of the city, which was an easy 5 minute walk to the city center. We explored the city the rest of the day and attended a concert that evening in the Church of St Nicholas. We had a nice quiet dinner at the Quay View Restaurant. The food was good, plentiful, and inexpensive. Our waitresses, one from Poland and the other from North Dakota, provided an interesting contrast. Galway is a vibrant city of moderate size with lots of students. It was a good change from the rest of our itinerary.
A little more to follow.
Tuesday June 1: Got a late start (can't rebound from late nights as quickly as we used to) and drove to Westport via Croagh Patrick. Walked off most of the Guinness from the night before. The view from Croagh Patrick was spectacular. The walk is steep and rocky. Returned from our adventure and had a early dinner in Westport at the Clew Bay Hotel. We shared two different deserts-- strawberry rhubarb crumble and cheezecake with Bailey's. The cheezecake was our favorite. Westport is a nice town with lots of restaurants, pubs, and stores. Returned to the Clew Bay for entertainment that evening and ran into a group touring by bus from England. We had a great time and they asked us to join their bus tour the following day. Since we were down to our last few days we had to say no to their offer. We were all disappointed to part company.
Wednesday June 2: We had planned to drive to Galway by a more direct route but the hostess of our B&B suggested that we take N5 to Castlebar and then follow N84 to Ballintubber to visit the Abbey. We're glad we followed the suggestion. The Abbey is the only church in Ireland where Catholic mass has been offered without a break for almost 800 years. The Abbey, set in a peacefull pastoral setting, is the starting point for pilgrimages to Croagh Patrick. After a few more stops along N84, we made our way to Galway. We found a B&B in the Salthill section of the city, which was an easy 5 minute walk to the city center. We explored the city the rest of the day and attended a concert that evening in the Church of St Nicholas. We had a nice quiet dinner at the Quay View Restaurant. The food was good, plentiful, and inexpensive. Our waitresses, one from Poland and the other from North Dakota, provided an interesting contrast. Galway is a vibrant city of moderate size with lots of students. It was a good change from the rest of our itinerary.
A little more to follow.
Jun 13th, 2004, 10:51 AM
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Hi Diane,
We made a few quick stops along the way but I would say it took about 5 hours. We stopped a few times to enjoy the scenery, take photos, and let the sheep cross the road.
Bob
We made a few quick stops along the way but I would say it took about 5 hours. We stopped a few times to enjoy the scenery, take photos, and let the sheep cross the road.
Bob
Jun 13th, 2004, 03:21 PM
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Last installment
Thursday June 3: Drove to Ennis with a stopover in Quin. The Quin Abbey is very well preserved and we really enjoyed walking all over the ruins. There is no admissions charge and very few people. We also took the self-guided tour of the Knappogue Castle and gardens. We returned to Ennis and got a room on the southside of town and within easy walking distance of the center of town. We stayed at the Laurel Lodge B&B. The room was clean and spacious and the hostess was very nice. We would hightly recommend it to anyone who wants to stay close to Shannon Airport. It's only 14 miles from Shannon. Had a great meal at a reasonable price at the La Taverna restaurant in the center of Ennis. Enjoyed our last night of traditional Irish music at a local pub where we met a few folks we had met earlier in our travels. They were also flying out the following day.
Friday June 4: Stopped at Bunratty Castle on our way to Shannon. We did some last minute shopping and walked a bit before our long flight home. Aer Lingus had a surprise for us. Our flight back to BWI was cancelled due to aircraft problems. Aer Lingus kept us in suspense for awhile but we were eventually booked on an Aer Lingus flight to New York's JFK. From JFK, we were transported to LaGuardia for a US Air flight back to BWI. We arrived save and sound 4 hours later than we were scheduled to arrive. It was a great two week but we were glad to be home. The end.
Thursday June 3: Drove to Ennis with a stopover in Quin. The Quin Abbey is very well preserved and we really enjoyed walking all over the ruins. There is no admissions charge and very few people. We also took the self-guided tour of the Knappogue Castle and gardens. We returned to Ennis and got a room on the southside of town and within easy walking distance of the center of town. We stayed at the Laurel Lodge B&B. The room was clean and spacious and the hostess was very nice. We would hightly recommend it to anyone who wants to stay close to Shannon Airport. It's only 14 miles from Shannon. Had a great meal at a reasonable price at the La Taverna restaurant in the center of Ennis. Enjoyed our last night of traditional Irish music at a local pub where we met a few folks we had met earlier in our travels. They were also flying out the following day.
Friday June 4: Stopped at Bunratty Castle on our way to Shannon. We did some last minute shopping and walked a bit before our long flight home. Aer Lingus had a surprise for us. Our flight back to BWI was cancelled due to aircraft problems. Aer Lingus kept us in suspense for awhile but we were eventually booked on an Aer Lingus flight to New York's JFK. From JFK, we were transported to LaGuardia for a US Air flight back to BWI. We arrived save and sound 4 hours later than we were scheduled to arrive. It was a great two week but we were glad to be home. The end.
Jun 14th, 2004, 09:01 AM
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Sounds like a fantastic trip Bob. The hike to the top of Croagh Patrick must have been great, though probably quite a workout. I can't imagine doing it barefoot as, I guess, many still do.
Sounds like you found some good eats and good entertainment too. I'm talijg notes on your B&B choices. There were some good ones it sounds like.
I find the n71 from Kenmare to Bantry to be spectacular. From there, I've taken a lot of backroads like R496, 497, and 498. They are much more interesting than the main road. The main road though, will get you there in a reasonable amount of time.
Glad you had a good time.
Bill
Sounds like you found some good eats and good entertainment too. I'm talijg notes on your B&B choices. There were some good ones it sounds like.
I find the n71 from Kenmare to Bantry to be spectacular. From there, I've taken a lot of backroads like R496, 497, and 498. They are much more interesting than the main road. The main road though, will get you there in a reasonable amount of time.
Glad you had a good time.
Bill
Jun 14th, 2004, 02:16 PM
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Thanks ohmom, Bill, and Diane. I got some great advice and information from others who shared their experiences on this site and just wanted to continue that process by passing on some of our experiences.
Bob
Bob
Jun 14th, 2004, 05:10 PM
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Oh no! Only a couple of Guinness! Whatever shall I do for breakfast on the day I land? (dramatic gesture of back of hand thrown over eyes)
Honestly, I tried very hard to like Guinness but just couldn't- too earthy for me. Think I will try it in ha'pints this time! Now Harp- that is my drink.
Diane
Honestly, I tried very hard to like Guinness but just couldn't- too earthy for me. Think I will try it in ha'pints this time! Now Harp- that is my drink.
Diane
Jun 14th, 2004, 05:49 PM
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Seriously, Diane, I hope you have a great time in Ireland. I wish you the very best -- I'll be drinking wine in Tuscany in September.
If I can answer any questions for you, please feel free to ask.
If I can answer any questions for you, please feel free to ask.
