Ireland----the isle of pleasant surprises!
Sep 27th, 2010, 01:26 PM
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TPAYT -- Enjoying your trip report and photos. We too, stayed at Greenmount House on our 2002 trip, and can recall their fabulous breakfasts. GH was a wonderful place then, and looks more so now.
I recall the wonderful sticky taffy pudding that we had for dessert in town.
I recall the wonderful sticky taffy pudding that we had for dessert in town.
Sep 28th, 2010, 02:22 AM
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Fabulous photo's, thanks for posting them so we can all share your trip. Still very much enjoying your report too. Interesting observation about Dingle - everyone raves over it so its nice to get another perspective. Did you feel it was just too touristy?
Sep 28th, 2010, 03:21 AM
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Good Morning from Madison, TPAYT!
Up early reading trip reports (working off jet leg - just got home from Switzerland and Lake Como two days ago) and loving yours. Your pictures are really beautiful and capture a lot of the same sights we saw way back in 2004. Reminds me I could definitely go back to Ireland!
Up early reading trip reports (working off jet leg - just got home from Switzerland and Lake Como two days ago) and loving yours. Your pictures are really beautiful and capture a lot of the same sights we saw way back in 2004. Reminds me I could definitely go back to Ireland!
Sep 28th, 2010, 06:35 AM
#26
Thanks again for the compliments on the photos. I take a few, but MDH is the one with the passion for photography. Therein lies an editing problem of 2 cameras, my point & shoot and his more complicated camera.
As far as Dingle town is concerned, maybe it was just us, but after the breathtaking, physical beauty of the surrounding area, somehow crowded streets, daytripping buses, and shop after shop filled with key chains and tea towels just didn't do it for us. We're told that the pub scene is a big draw for some, but a good dinner with wine, dessert, & cappucino is more like us. For the pubs, maybe we hit it on a bad night (Thurs.).I think Fri. & Sat. would be better(it was in Westport).
Happycheesehead---We'll be watching for your trip report. We've also been to Switzerland and were in the Lake Como area while you were in Ireland----one of my most memorable birthday dinners at "Al Veluu" overlooking the lake in the hills above Tremezzo.
Will try and post Kenmare today.
As far as Dingle town is concerned, maybe it was just us, but after the breathtaking, physical beauty of the surrounding area, somehow crowded streets, daytripping buses, and shop after shop filled with key chains and tea towels just didn't do it for us. We're told that the pub scene is a big draw for some, but a good dinner with wine, dessert, & cappucino is more like us. For the pubs, maybe we hit it on a bad night (Thurs.).I think Fri. & Sat. would be better(it was in Westport).
Happycheesehead---We'll be watching for your trip report. We've also been to Switzerland and were in the Lake Como area while you were in Ireland----one of my most memorable birthday dinners at "Al Veluu" overlooking the lake in the hills above Tremezzo.
Will try and post Kenmare today.
Sep 28th, 2010, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for your insight on Dingle, the town certainly doesn't sound like our sort of place either, but I guess its how a lot of the locals make a living. If you had your choice again where would you have stayed?
Sep 29th, 2010, 05:46 AM
#28
We will return to Dingle and definitely to Greenmount House B&B.
The outstanding beauty of the penninusila and the great accommadations of Greenmount House far outweigh any lack of enthusiasm we had for hanging around the town. There were enough good restaurants(Fenton's also looked nice although we didn't eat there) to fit our needs.
The outstanding beauty of the penninusila and the great accommadations of Greenmount House far outweigh any lack of enthusiasm we had for hanging around the town. There were enough good restaurants(Fenton's also looked nice although we didn't eat there) to fit our needs.
Sep 29th, 2010, 07:42 AM
#29
As I continue-------
Day#8---Dingle to Kenmare
We drove the R561 anong the water to beautiful Inch Beach (where "Far and Away" was filmed). The weather was warm and the surfers were out. We were able to drive right onto the beach for more photos.
Entering Killarney, we circled the city a few times to find the N71 to Kenmare. The traffic was quite heavy with lots of busses. We were going to stop but decided to move on.
There is a more direct motorway N22 toR69 to Kenmare but we chose the more scenic N71 which is a part of the famous Ring of Kerry.
Shortly we came upon some jaunty cars in a small parking area. We knew that we could drive a bit further on to the Muckross House parking area up the road, but opted for a buggy ride instead. 40 Euros bought us a l-1/2 hour ride through the forrest to visit the Muckross House gardens and Torc Falls. At both, Hugh (driver) and Sally(horse) waited for us while we walked in and of course took more photos. Touristy, we know, but why not? It's not something you do every day. Hugh's info and commentary was interesting and it was a fun ride.
On to some of the most difficult driving we had in all of Ireland. The N71 to Ladies View and on to Kenmare. By now we had been on many narrow, winding roads on this trip, but this one was downright dangerous. Extremely narrow with few turn outs or wide spaces except for Ladies View. Lots of buses and oncoming speeding cars around every bend---very nerve wracking.
Stopped at Ladies View, pretty but Connor Pass was better. They did have a cafe and a nice shop for souvenirs, but you often can find that.
Arriving in Kenmare, we were delighted to find a little "calm". We located our B&B www.shelburnelodge.com just up the road from Kenmare Golf Club. Pulling in the private drive we were awed by this grand 18th century Irish manor house.
Maura greeted us and took us up the steep staircase to our large room. Overlooking the garden, again we had a king size bed, up to date bath, and sitting area. (140 Euros per night)
The house is filled antique furniture, books, and charming things from all over the world. An elegant sitting room on the first floor was warmed by a wood & peat burning fireplace, and we ended every evening relaxing there.
Very lived in, we felt comfortable in every room. A house to enjoy---not a museum with velvet ropes across the doorways to look in but not touch.
If you picture your ultimate Irish vacation as being a guest at your loving cousin's country manor house, this is the place for you.
Since we were to be there Fri.,Sat.,& Sun. nights, Maura suggested she make some dinner reservations for us. We wanted to eat at "Packies" (as per Fodorites). Not so, too late for Fri. &Sat, and closed Sun.(Lesson learned--reserve ahead of time). She got us in at "D'Arcy's".
Lobster Bisque & Potato Leek soups for starters
Lamb Rump, veg, rasted potatoes
Rib Eye steak & ff's
Dessert--apple crumble w/cream
Pineapple tart w/lime syrup & coconut ice cream
Wine & cappucinno 83 Euros
Good but not outstanding
Day#9---Voted best food day of our trip!
Another great breakfast experience in an elegant setting. Tom (owner) brought us menus along with with fresh squeezed OJ and hot French press coffee and explained the daily specials.
"What would you like for a starter?", he asked. Here we go again! So many sumptuous choices.I cannot stress enough how good this food was along with the presentation.
Rhubarb Compote w/orange zest, topped by gorgeous sliced strawbwrries followed by(I kid you not) Dover Sole on the bone with lemon butter. I usually don't eat fish for breakfast, but I couldn't pass that up. Both absolutely divine.
MDH had what he called, perfect porridge w/honey & cream (skip the whiskey) followed by another of those full Irish breakfasts.Along with assorted breads w/orange marmalade.
OMG, I'm in heaven! I may be a dedicated "Fodorite" but I am first and foremost a dedicated "Fooderite"!
A bit gray today so we took a pass on the ROK. MDH could not face another day of death defying traffic dodging tour buses. Also he was playing golf in the afternoon.
Walked into town to do a little shopping. Actually, they had some very nice shops there. We also went to Cromwell's bridge and the Druid Stone Circle (2200 b.c.), the oldest stone circle in Ireland.
MDH played 9 at Kenmare Golf Club and enjoyed the 100 year old course.
Maura had made dinner reservations for us at MULCAHY'S on Henry Street and we were lucky to get in---again reserve ahead.
This was our favorite dinner in Ireland.
Starters
Goat Cheese salad(photo)---I order alot of goat cheese salads and this was one of the best.
Butternut Squash soup---definitely full of cream and delicious
Both of us had Sirloin Steaks (w/bernaise for me, garlic cloves w/butter sauce for MDH) accompanied by potato croquettes, ff's, mashed carrots, snap peas,& red cabbage
We were leery of ordering steak, especially a sirloin steak, but this was one of the best steaks we've ever had anywhere--and that sauce, perfect!
Had wine from the Sancerre region of France, cappucino, & dessert---warm chocolate fondant w/ice cream, shared.
Day#10---Kenmare & Killarney
Repeat breakfast----I couldn't pass up that fantastic Dover Sole again.
Took the fast roed to Killarney and did a little shopping. Then as it was again a little gray, we did the inside tour of Muckross House---interesting.
Dinner----couldn't top last night so Maura suggested "The Coachman" for fish & chips and a little music. Again close by so that we could walk.
Along with wine and cappucino----40 Euros. The music started so we ordered a Guiness and stayed awile. This was music we liked. A great guitar played, folk singer---he did many of the well known Irish tunes.
Day #11---Kenmare to Adare, and on to Shannon
I just couldn't have Dover Sole again so I opted for poached pears w/ginger followed by the creamiest bacon & cheese omelett that I have ever had. DH stuck with the usual.
We hated to leave this beautiful property. We drove the motorway north to Adare. It was touristy, but very cute and not too crowded. Bought a few things and took some photos. It was a nice, sunny day so we sat at an outside restaurant and had coffee and a chocolate muffin w/hot fudge on top--yummm!
Now in all of our shopping, we never did find a children's shop of the quality of "Young World" in Ennis. Since we were spending the night near Shannon airport, we decided to return to Ennis (maybe a 20 min.drive from the airport) and look for it. A lady in a flower shop helped me find it and my shopping was complete.
Oakwood Arms near the airport was rather wierd. A gigantic property, sort of convention like, with strange medieval stuff everywhere. I have to say that the room was up to date and the bed was comfortable, but the lighting throughout the hotel was dim and cheap, cheap, cheap. Convenient to the airport w/gas station next door. ($98 US through Expedia)
The food was OK--sandwiches for dinner and an adequate breakfast buffet, but again the restaurant was so dimly lit you thought that they had a power outage or something.
I'll post closing thoughts and photos from the Kenmare area tomorrow.
Day#8---Dingle to Kenmare
We drove the R561 anong the water to beautiful Inch Beach (where "Far and Away" was filmed). The weather was warm and the surfers were out. We were able to drive right onto the beach for more photos.
Entering Killarney, we circled the city a few times to find the N71 to Kenmare. The traffic was quite heavy with lots of busses. We were going to stop but decided to move on.
There is a more direct motorway N22 toR69 to Kenmare but we chose the more scenic N71 which is a part of the famous Ring of Kerry.
Shortly we came upon some jaunty cars in a small parking area. We knew that we could drive a bit further on to the Muckross House parking area up the road, but opted for a buggy ride instead. 40 Euros bought us a l-1/2 hour ride through the forrest to visit the Muckross House gardens and Torc Falls. At both, Hugh (driver) and Sally(horse) waited for us while we walked in and of course took more photos. Touristy, we know, but why not? It's not something you do every day. Hugh's info and commentary was interesting and it was a fun ride.
On to some of the most difficult driving we had in all of Ireland. The N71 to Ladies View and on to Kenmare. By now we had been on many narrow, winding roads on this trip, but this one was downright dangerous. Extremely narrow with few turn outs or wide spaces except for Ladies View. Lots of buses and oncoming speeding cars around every bend---very nerve wracking.
Stopped at Ladies View, pretty but Connor Pass was better. They did have a cafe and a nice shop for souvenirs, but you often can find that.
Arriving in Kenmare, we were delighted to find a little "calm". We located our B&B www.shelburnelodge.com just up the road from Kenmare Golf Club. Pulling in the private drive we were awed by this grand 18th century Irish manor house.
Maura greeted us and took us up the steep staircase to our large room. Overlooking the garden, again we had a king size bed, up to date bath, and sitting area. (140 Euros per night)
The house is filled antique furniture, books, and charming things from all over the world. An elegant sitting room on the first floor was warmed by a wood & peat burning fireplace, and we ended every evening relaxing there.
Very lived in, we felt comfortable in every room. A house to enjoy---not a museum with velvet ropes across the doorways to look in but not touch.
If you picture your ultimate Irish vacation as being a guest at your loving cousin's country manor house, this is the place for you.
Since we were to be there Fri.,Sat.,& Sun. nights, Maura suggested she make some dinner reservations for us. We wanted to eat at "Packies" (as per Fodorites). Not so, too late for Fri. &Sat, and closed Sun.(Lesson learned--reserve ahead of time). She got us in at "D'Arcy's".
Lobster Bisque & Potato Leek soups for starters
Lamb Rump, veg, rasted potatoes
Rib Eye steak & ff's
Dessert--apple crumble w/cream
Pineapple tart w/lime syrup & coconut ice cream
Wine & cappucinno 83 Euros
Good but not outstanding
Day#9---Voted best food day of our trip!
Another great breakfast experience in an elegant setting. Tom (owner) brought us menus along with with fresh squeezed OJ and hot French press coffee and explained the daily specials.
"What would you like for a starter?", he asked. Here we go again! So many sumptuous choices.I cannot stress enough how good this food was along with the presentation.
Rhubarb Compote w/orange zest, topped by gorgeous sliced strawbwrries followed by(I kid you not) Dover Sole on the bone with lemon butter. I usually don't eat fish for breakfast, but I couldn't pass that up. Both absolutely divine.
MDH had what he called, perfect porridge w/honey & cream (skip the whiskey) followed by another of those full Irish breakfasts.Along with assorted breads w/orange marmalade.
OMG, I'm in heaven! I may be a dedicated "Fodorite" but I am first and foremost a dedicated "Fooderite"!
A bit gray today so we took a pass on the ROK. MDH could not face another day of death defying traffic dodging tour buses. Also he was playing golf in the afternoon.
Walked into town to do a little shopping. Actually, they had some very nice shops there. We also went to Cromwell's bridge and the Druid Stone Circle (2200 b.c.), the oldest stone circle in Ireland.
MDH played 9 at Kenmare Golf Club and enjoyed the 100 year old course.
Maura had made dinner reservations for us at MULCAHY'S on Henry Street and we were lucky to get in---again reserve ahead.
This was our favorite dinner in Ireland.
Starters
Goat Cheese salad(photo)---I order alot of goat cheese salads and this was one of the best.
Butternut Squash soup---definitely full of cream and delicious
Both of us had Sirloin Steaks (w/bernaise for me, garlic cloves w/butter sauce for MDH) accompanied by potato croquettes, ff's, mashed carrots, snap peas,& red cabbage
We were leery of ordering steak, especially a sirloin steak, but this was one of the best steaks we've ever had anywhere--and that sauce, perfect!
Had wine from the Sancerre region of France, cappucino, & dessert---warm chocolate fondant w/ice cream, shared.
Day#10---Kenmare & Killarney
Repeat breakfast----I couldn't pass up that fantastic Dover Sole again.
Took the fast roed to Killarney and did a little shopping. Then as it was again a little gray, we did the inside tour of Muckross House---interesting.
Dinner----couldn't top last night so Maura suggested "The Coachman" for fish & chips and a little music. Again close by so that we could walk.
Along with wine and cappucino----40 Euros. The music started so we ordered a Guiness and stayed awile. This was music we liked. A great guitar played, folk singer---he did many of the well known Irish tunes.
Day #11---Kenmare to Adare, and on to Shannon
I just couldn't have Dover Sole again so I opted for poached pears w/ginger followed by the creamiest bacon & cheese omelett that I have ever had. DH stuck with the usual.
We hated to leave this beautiful property. We drove the motorway north to Adare. It was touristy, but very cute and not too crowded. Bought a few things and took some photos. It was a nice, sunny day so we sat at an outside restaurant and had coffee and a chocolate muffin w/hot fudge on top--yummm!
Now in all of our shopping, we never did find a children's shop of the quality of "Young World" in Ennis. Since we were spending the night near Shannon airport, we decided to return to Ennis (maybe a 20 min.drive from the airport) and look for it. A lady in a flower shop helped me find it and my shopping was complete.
Oakwood Arms near the airport was rather wierd. A gigantic property, sort of convention like, with strange medieval stuff everywhere. I have to say that the room was up to date and the bed was comfortable, but the lighting throughout the hotel was dim and cheap, cheap, cheap. Convenient to the airport w/gas station next door. ($98 US through Expedia)
The food was OK--sandwiches for dinner and an adequate breakfast buffet, but again the restaurant was so dimly lit you thought that they had a power outage or something.
I'll post closing thoughts and photos from the Kenmare area tomorrow.
Sep 29th, 2010, 08:30 AM
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Tpayt. Our flight to JFK was cancelled yesterday,thanks to monday's rain so we have not started our Ireland adventure yet. Hopefully tonight we will have more luck! Will post trip report when we have experiences to tell.
Sep 29th, 2010, 10:02 AM
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We stayed at Shelburne Lodge too and loved it, it was our little splurge lodging as compared to the B&B's we stayed in otherwise. What a great, great place. Glad to know they are still going strong!
Oct 4th, 2010, 02:12 PM
#34
http://s708.photobucket.com/albums/w...view=slideshow
Finally photos from Kenmare.
In closing ---things that turned out to be better than expected:
Food really outstanding
Size & quality of the breakfasts included with the room
Wine selections from many countries
Hots were served really hot & colds, very cold
Cappucinno & espresso availabe everywhere
Casual dress (jeans everywhere, even in fine dining restaurants)
King & Queen sized beds in all of the B&B's we chose
Now, driving was more difficult than expected, but we adapted in a few days. Sometimes the signs were non-exsistent, but someone always helped us out.
The use of the street by street Route Planner was extremely helpful (all did before we left for our trip)
www.aaireland.ie Also Collins Road Atlas with easier to read maps.
All in all it was a fantastic trip and we will return to see more of Ireland one day.
Finally photos from Kenmare.
In closing ---things that turned out to be better than expected:
Food really outstanding
Size & quality of the breakfasts included with the room
Wine selections from many countries
Hots were served really hot & colds, very cold
Cappucinno & espresso availabe everywhere
Casual dress (jeans everywhere, even in fine dining restaurants)
King & Queen sized beds in all of the B&B's we chose
Now, driving was more difficult than expected, but we adapted in a few days. Sometimes the signs were non-exsistent, but someone always helped us out.
The use of the street by street Route Planner was extremely helpful (all did before we left for our trip)
www.aaireland.ie Also Collins Road Atlas with easier to read maps.
All in all it was a fantastic trip and we will return to see more of Ireland one day.
Oct 9th, 2010, 05:37 AM
#35
I must add---to all of you who got in the discussion of black and white pudding.
Now I know Anthony Bourdain would have eaten it, but I just couldn't bring myself to try it. I think I'm pretty adventuresome about food, but it just didn't appeal to me in any way. Maybe next trip!
Now I know Anthony Bourdain would have eaten it, but I just couldn't bring myself to try it. I think I'm pretty adventuresome about food, but it just didn't appeal to me in any way. Maybe next trip!
Oct 9th, 2010, 10:08 AM
#36
Dear TPAYT,
So glad you enjoyed Ireland and from the photos it seems you were blessed with great weather.
You brought back memories for me from our trip. We had an amazing dinner in Kenmare too - best scallops I've ever had - we went 2 nights in a row. Sure wish I knew the name of that restaurant!
Thanks for sharing and for the gorgeous photos!
gruezi
So glad you enjoyed Ireland and from the photos it seems you were blessed with great weather.
You brought back memories for me from our trip. We had an amazing dinner in Kenmare too - best scallops I've ever had - we went 2 nights in a row. Sure wish I knew the name of that restaurant!
Thanks for sharing and for the gorgeous photos!
gruezi
Nov 12th, 2010, 04:37 PM
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I would like to take my husband to Ireland for his 50th. Your itinerary seems lovely but I am concerned about the driving. Is it difficult to drive if you have never done so before in Europe. Is it really the only way to get around to some of these areas?
Nov 12th, 2010, 05:23 PM
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DAE--We hate to drive overseas, and so I posed the same question here eons ago. We were joining cycling groups in various locations, and we just didn't want the bother of a car. People thought we were nuts (both for wanting NOT to drive and for wanting to be on bike), but dear NedsIreland on this board steered us towards the Irish bus system (he was a master of this very nice system) and car hire with driver. Perfect.
Buses go from Shannon to Ennis all the time, and my girls and I did that as our first leg on our first trip. When we later (after bike touring) met my husband at Shannon again, we rode by bus to Adare, stayed the night, and had a driver take us cross country to Cork airport to meet with our next bike group. At the end of the trip, we took a bus from Cork to Ennis and then to Bunratty. Hopped on the bus the next morning to fly out of Shannon. It really was quite easy.
The second trip we had a driver take us from Shannon to Doolin, and then we bused ourselves to Cliffs of Moher, Ballyvaughen, etc before we headed by bus to Galway. We met up with our bike group in a day or two at Galway airport (took bus again!) and so didn't have to worry about transportation again for quite some time as we biked up to and through Connemara, but for our return from Cong (we stayed at Ashford Castle in a turret!), we hired a driver through the concierge to take us straight to Galway Airport, where we were able to hop a bus back to Shannon with no problems.
So it's certainly NOT the way anyone else seems to do it, but it works just fine for us. We've certainly had no problem enjoying views, famous sites, B&B's, pubs, and so on like anyone else.
Buses go from Shannon to Ennis all the time, and my girls and I did that as our first leg on our first trip. When we later (after bike touring) met my husband at Shannon again, we rode by bus to Adare, stayed the night, and had a driver take us cross country to Cork airport to meet with our next bike group. At the end of the trip, we took a bus from Cork to Ennis and then to Bunratty. Hopped on the bus the next morning to fly out of Shannon. It really was quite easy.
The second trip we had a driver take us from Shannon to Doolin, and then we bused ourselves to Cliffs of Moher, Ballyvaughen, etc before we headed by bus to Galway. We met up with our bike group in a day or two at Galway airport (took bus again!) and so didn't have to worry about transportation again for quite some time as we biked up to and through Connemara, but for our return from Cong (we stayed at Ashford Castle in a turret!), we hired a driver through the concierge to take us straight to Galway Airport, where we were able to hop a bus back to Shannon with no problems.
So it's certainly NOT the way anyone else seems to do it, but it works just fine for us. We've certainly had no problem enjoying views, famous sites, B&B's, pubs, and so on like anyone else.
