IRELAND - the driving is great: east to west, south to north!
Jul 17th, 2014, 06:11 PM
#81
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Thanks for the encouragement USAGirl!
We didn't look into my husband's boat trip in advance because we thought both of us would be going on the trip that stopped at Skellig Michael so I don't know if there are multiple boats circling the islands. That being said, DH said that there was no problem getting on the boat that only went around, it cost 30€ and it lasted about 3 hours, 10:30 - 1:30. I think it left from the same dock as the other boats did. If he says otherwise, I'll get back to you.
There are two ways to get to Portmagee from the northern road of the Ring of Kerry. The first sign directing you to this town will necessitate taking a ferry to Vallentia Island first. That sign has a little picture of a boat on it. We did not take that one. Keep going straight. The second sign will take you straight to Portmagee by road only. Take that one. Once you arrive, if you are looking for the boats that I'm describing, do not follow the signs to The Skellig Experience. That is a visitor's center across a waterway/bridge. Instead, just before the bridge, stay to the left. The docks will be on the right next to a little parking lot. That lot was full when we arrived so we just parked on the street along the buildings.
I looked online to see if I could find info about circling the islands and found these two websites:
http://www.skelligmichaelcruises.com...michael-tours/
http://www.skelligexperience.com/the-sea-tour/
It seems like these have general info on the trips that don't land so I'd start there. I know I saw another site before my trip, but I can't find it now.
There are supposedly 13 boats which go and stop at the island. I googled and found Joe Roddy before going to Ireland, but I ended up going with Patrick Murphy that day. If you want to book a stop at the island, I'd start with them. No problems with Murphy and he was very nice. Book ahead, but be prepared that if it's too windy or too rough, the trip might not go.
We didn't look into my husband's boat trip in advance because we thought both of us would be going on the trip that stopped at Skellig Michael so I don't know if there are multiple boats circling the islands. That being said, DH said that there was no problem getting on the boat that only went around, it cost 30€ and it lasted about 3 hours, 10:30 - 1:30. I think it left from the same dock as the other boats did. If he says otherwise, I'll get back to you.
There are two ways to get to Portmagee from the northern road of the Ring of Kerry. The first sign directing you to this town will necessitate taking a ferry to Vallentia Island first. That sign has a little picture of a boat on it. We did not take that one. Keep going straight. The second sign will take you straight to Portmagee by road only. Take that one. Once you arrive, if you are looking for the boats that I'm describing, do not follow the signs to The Skellig Experience. That is a visitor's center across a waterway/bridge. Instead, just before the bridge, stay to the left. The docks will be on the right next to a little parking lot. That lot was full when we arrived so we just parked on the street along the buildings.
I looked online to see if I could find info about circling the islands and found these two websites:
http://www.skelligmichaelcruises.com...michael-tours/
http://www.skelligexperience.com/the-sea-tour/
It seems like these have general info on the trips that don't land so I'd start there. I know I saw another site before my trip, but I can't find it now.
There are supposedly 13 boats which go and stop at the island. I googled and found Joe Roddy before going to Ireland, but I ended up going with Patrick Murphy that day. If you want to book a stop at the island, I'd start with them. No problems with Murphy and he was very nice. Book ahead, but be prepared that if it's too windy or too rough, the trip might not go.
Jul 17th, 2014, 06:17 PM
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Here is the boat my husband took:
http://www.skelligmichaelcruises.com...ellig-michael/
Same website, different page!
http://www.skelligmichaelcruises.com...ellig-michael/
Same website, different page!
Jul 18th, 2014, 05:27 AM
#83
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ANTRIM COASTAL ROUTE, NORTHERN IRELAND
Long drive north into Northern Ireland, but a great time to catch up with DS and get to know his friend.
Two funny trucks seen along the way:
The Knights of the Damned Jousting Stunt Team
TK Maxx - does my chassis look big in this? (Irish version of TJ Maxx)
We went out of our way to take the Causeway Coastal Route along the Antrim Coast. The sparkling water, the cliffed coastline, rolling hills dotted with sheep, tiny villages, ivy covered houses, short tunnels carved out of huge rock outcroppings once blocking the road, rocky islands, a glimpse of Scotland on the horizon - it was beautiful. The roads were empty and curving, but not overly narrow, and the driving was easy.
Interestingly, we started noticing a lot of items in bright pink in every town, not a color you would normally associate with Ireland. Pink bicycles, pink tractors, picnic tables, garbage bins, strings of pink flags across the roads or along buildings. Even later, the trim on our guest house was painted a bright pink whereas it had been black on the website. What was going on? Turns out the Italian cycling race, the Giro d'Italia, came through this entire area in May and the townspeople showed their support by adding pink, the race's official color and color of the lead racer's jersey, all along the route. It was actually quite festive.
We stopped for dinner at the Diamond Bar and Bistro in Ballycastle. We passed through the pub and pool table area to the back section which was their "award-winning" restaurant. You never know what sort of awards these claims refer to, but in this case, the food was delicious. I had fettucini carbonara and it rivaled the best I had in Italy (although a bit more sauce). DD had a wonderful vegetarian curry. It was nice to have a gourmet-like dinner after a long afternoon of driving. I recommend stopping there for a nice dinner.
We arrived in the teeny tiny coastal town of Ballintoy and one of the few buildings was ours - the Fullerton Arms. We had booked the family room for the 5 of us and didn't know what to expect. What was NOT expected were the two incredibly long staircases, but thankfully two barmen were enlisted to help carry our suitcases. This is a beautiful guest house with beautiful wallpapers, curved wooden bannisters and little chandeliers hanging in the halls, all in nice taste on the first floor (second floor for Americans). It got plainer going up to the second (third) floor as that was the area once used for staff, but it was very private - we were the only ones using that staircase and floor.
Our room was like nothing I had ever stayed in. It took up right side of the building, a long dorm-like room with 5 beds. From one end to the other, a double, two twins and finally, a set of bunk beds. There were the 5 beds, a regular sized table and chairs, a tea and coffee making center with some cookies, and an armoire spread out under the slanting ceiling with skylights. So. Much. Space!
Even better for all of us were the double sink, a small room with just a shower, and two more individual rooms with commodes. Everyone could be getting ready in some fashion at once (not that it worked out like that!) I would definitely stay there again. Very clean and comfortable - and fun!
Breakfast the next day was also wonderful in a nice dining room, which served as the restaurant at night. There was the typical traditional full Irish breakfast, but this one was served with potato bread and soda bread, both delicious, a pancake and mushrooms or baked beans. There was also a menu of other possibilities and a cereal and fruit buffet. Excellent.
http://www.fullerton-arms.com
I'm going to add that the town Portrush was recommended to us for a hotel, but we drove into it the next day and drove right out. It was more like a city in comparison to where we stayed and was very busy. Obviously there would be many more restaurants, pubs and nightlife if that is what you might be looking for. Our town only had 2 pubs, one was where we stayed, and was a bit farther out, but very well placed to get to the area's attractions. Late that first night, DS and friend went to the "other" pub and there was a fundraiser going on with Irish dancers and by the end, everyone was up and dancing with the girls. I wished they had come back to get me!
Long drive north into Northern Ireland, but a great time to catch up with DS and get to know his friend.
Two funny trucks seen along the way:
The Knights of the Damned Jousting Stunt Team
TK Maxx - does my chassis look big in this? (Irish version of TJ Maxx)
We went out of our way to take the Causeway Coastal Route along the Antrim Coast. The sparkling water, the cliffed coastline, rolling hills dotted with sheep, tiny villages, ivy covered houses, short tunnels carved out of huge rock outcroppings once blocking the road, rocky islands, a glimpse of Scotland on the horizon - it was beautiful. The roads were empty and curving, but not overly narrow, and the driving was easy.
Interestingly, we started noticing a lot of items in bright pink in every town, not a color you would normally associate with Ireland. Pink bicycles, pink tractors, picnic tables, garbage bins, strings of pink flags across the roads or along buildings. Even later, the trim on our guest house was painted a bright pink whereas it had been black on the website. What was going on? Turns out the Italian cycling race, the Giro d'Italia, came through this entire area in May and the townspeople showed their support by adding pink, the race's official color and color of the lead racer's jersey, all along the route. It was actually quite festive.
We stopped for dinner at the Diamond Bar and Bistro in Ballycastle. We passed through the pub and pool table area to the back section which was their "award-winning" restaurant. You never know what sort of awards these claims refer to, but in this case, the food was delicious. I had fettucini carbonara and it rivaled the best I had in Italy (although a bit more sauce). DD had a wonderful vegetarian curry. It was nice to have a gourmet-like dinner after a long afternoon of driving. I recommend stopping there for a nice dinner.
We arrived in the teeny tiny coastal town of Ballintoy and one of the few buildings was ours - the Fullerton Arms. We had booked the family room for the 5 of us and didn't know what to expect. What was NOT expected were the two incredibly long staircases, but thankfully two barmen were enlisted to help carry our suitcases. This is a beautiful guest house with beautiful wallpapers, curved wooden bannisters and little chandeliers hanging in the halls, all in nice taste on the first floor (second floor for Americans). It got plainer going up to the second (third) floor as that was the area once used for staff, but it was very private - we were the only ones using that staircase and floor.
Our room was like nothing I had ever stayed in. It took up right side of the building, a long dorm-like room with 5 beds. From one end to the other, a double, two twins and finally, a set of bunk beds. There were the 5 beds, a regular sized table and chairs, a tea and coffee making center with some cookies, and an armoire spread out under the slanting ceiling with skylights. So. Much. Space!
Even better for all of us were the double sink, a small room with just a shower, and two more individual rooms with commodes. Everyone could be getting ready in some fashion at once (not that it worked out like that!) I would definitely stay there again. Very clean and comfortable - and fun!
Breakfast the next day was also wonderful in a nice dining room, which served as the restaurant at night. There was the typical traditional full Irish breakfast, but this one was served with potato bread and soda bread, both delicious, a pancake and mushrooms or baked beans. There was also a menu of other possibilities and a cereal and fruit buffet. Excellent.
http://www.fullerton-arms.com
I'm going to add that the town Portrush was recommended to us for a hotel, but we drove into it the next day and drove right out. It was more like a city in comparison to where we stayed and was very busy. Obviously there would be many more restaurants, pubs and nightlife if that is what you might be looking for. Our town only had 2 pubs, one was where we stayed, and was a bit farther out, but very well placed to get to the area's attractions. Late that first night, DS and friend went to the "other" pub and there was a fundraiser going on with Irish dancers and by the end, everyone was up and dancing with the girls. I wished they had come back to get me!
Jul 18th, 2014, 07:32 AM
#84
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Today was amazing. We did the four main attractions in the following order without rushing. I'm so glad we decided to go up north!
CARRICK-A-REDE ROPE BRIDGE
Definitely get there when it opens as we had the place almost to ourselves without the crowds which were just starting to arrive when we left.
We bought our tickets and walked all alone on a meandering path over rolling hills, along the top of the cliffs past fields of flowers and beautiful views of crystal blue water until we approached the bridge linking the mainland to Carrick-A-Rede Island. It was a bit of a hike, but not difficult. The end of the path was down steps to the entry gate. Down more steps then there was the bridge swinging 100 feet above the water. It's a 60 foot long rope bridge, but also has planks to walk on. I didn't find it scary in the least, but when we were leaving, I saw a woman pretty much frozen in fear in the middle. A little girl went out to help her across.
Once across we spent a bit of time walking over the small rocky island. There is no fencing on the island so there are warning signs to to stay back from the edges...well, duh! There were the requisite nesting birds settled in the crevices down the sides of the cliffs. We passed a small hut and boat down the side of a small cliff. Fishermen used to use the bridge to access the island so they could string up their nets to catch salmon.
Fun stop!
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
It was funny to get caught in a traffic jam between attractions: a group of cyclists, a huge tractor and a herd of sheep all tangled up together in the road, and trying to sort themselves out.
Anyway, the Giant's Causeway was another good stop for the morning - the main crowds had not yet arrived when we got there around 11. Admission includes audio equipment and/or a guided tour. We decided to take the tour (they said it lasts 40 minutes, but our guide was very talkative so it went for an hour) and while we waited, we hiked the trail at the top of the cliffs for a spectacular view of the lava formations from above. The tour left from the visitors center where a huge video was playing explaining both the formation of the site and also a cartoon version of the legend of the giants of Ireland and Scotland. Short video - worth watching.
The tour was excellent, but we also had a booklet explaining the different points of interest, so if you don't have enough time, I'm sure the audio tape and booklet would explain quite sufficiently. If you like more detail and have the time, go for the tour as well, although I might leave the tour at the main formations instead of continuing past if I were to do it again. It was too hard to keep on listening instead of starting to walk into the site.
Of course the highlight was walking over the lava columns. They were like stepping stones of differing heights and some form little mountains, great picture taking spots. If you aren't taking the tour, and after exploring and climbing, keep on walking past the main formations through a smaller opening to see the really tall columns from the back. If you continue that way, you can reach another formation set into the cliffs beyond, and can also access the upper cliffside path. I had read that you should do that entire loop past the causeway up to the top. Definitely either do the loop or at least walk along the path along the top of the cliffs for great views.
This isn't my picture, but it shows you what it all looks like:
http://celticmythpodshow.com/blog/wp...scauseway1.jpg
There is a good gift shop area where I would have bought some souvenirs, but we felt that we should push on.
Leaving the parking lot, it was a mad house! The crowds and busses had arrived!!!
Next - Bushmills Distillery and Dunluce Castle
CARRICK-A-REDE ROPE BRIDGE
Definitely get there when it opens as we had the place almost to ourselves without the crowds which were just starting to arrive when we left.
We bought our tickets and walked all alone on a meandering path over rolling hills, along the top of the cliffs past fields of flowers and beautiful views of crystal blue water until we approached the bridge linking the mainland to Carrick-A-Rede Island. It was a bit of a hike, but not difficult. The end of the path was down steps to the entry gate. Down more steps then there was the bridge swinging 100 feet above the water. It's a 60 foot long rope bridge, but also has planks to walk on. I didn't find it scary in the least, but when we were leaving, I saw a woman pretty much frozen in fear in the middle. A little girl went out to help her across.
Once across we spent a bit of time walking over the small rocky island. There is no fencing on the island so there are warning signs to to stay back from the edges...well, duh! There were the requisite nesting birds settled in the crevices down the sides of the cliffs. We passed a small hut and boat down the side of a small cliff. Fishermen used to use the bridge to access the island so they could string up their nets to catch salmon.
Fun stop!
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY
It was funny to get caught in a traffic jam between attractions: a group of cyclists, a huge tractor and a herd of sheep all tangled up together in the road, and trying to sort themselves out.
Anyway, the Giant's Causeway was another good stop for the morning - the main crowds had not yet arrived when we got there around 11. Admission includes audio equipment and/or a guided tour. We decided to take the tour (they said it lasts 40 minutes, but our guide was very talkative so it went for an hour) and while we waited, we hiked the trail at the top of the cliffs for a spectacular view of the lava formations from above. The tour left from the visitors center where a huge video was playing explaining both the formation of the site and also a cartoon version of the legend of the giants of Ireland and Scotland. Short video - worth watching.
The tour was excellent, but we also had a booklet explaining the different points of interest, so if you don't have enough time, I'm sure the audio tape and booklet would explain quite sufficiently. If you like more detail and have the time, go for the tour as well, although I might leave the tour at the main formations instead of continuing past if I were to do it again. It was too hard to keep on listening instead of starting to walk into the site.
Of course the highlight was walking over the lava columns. They were like stepping stones of differing heights and some form little mountains, great picture taking spots. If you aren't taking the tour, and after exploring and climbing, keep on walking past the main formations through a smaller opening to see the really tall columns from the back. If you continue that way, you can reach another formation set into the cliffs beyond, and can also access the upper cliffside path. I had read that you should do that entire loop past the causeway up to the top. Definitely either do the loop or at least walk along the path along the top of the cliffs for great views.
This isn't my picture, but it shows you what it all looks like:
http://celticmythpodshow.com/blog/wp...scauseway1.jpg
There is a good gift shop area where I would have bought some souvenirs, but we felt that we should push on.
Leaving the parking lot, it was a mad house! The crowds and busses had arrived!!!
Next - Bushmills Distillery and Dunluce Castle
Jul 18th, 2014, 02:20 PM
#85
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BUSHMILLS DISTILLERY
It seems that you can't go to Northern Ireland without going on the tour of this distillery so after Giant's Causeway we took the short ride over to the town of Bushmills. We were lucky in that the 3:00 tour was about to leave so off we went. Bushmills is supposedly the oldest licensed distillery in the world, since 1608. We were taken through the all work areas, starting with the vats of raw ingredients and ending at the stage where the maturation in different types of wood barrels is explained. Some areas are very hot so be prepared.
We learned how Scotch whiskey is distilled twice and the grain is dried by burning peat which gives a smokey flavor, whereas Bushmills is distilled three times and uses clean air to dry the grain for a clearer and lighter taste. The bottling area was not in operation that day (it doesn't run Friday afternoons or weekend), but we were shown a video instead. It's funny that Jameson's whiskey is shipped up there for bottling, but can't be stored or sold there. It comes in in trucks, is bottled and shipped right back out.
The liquid souvenir at the end was very nice too
with a choice of whiskeys to taste.
Our timing was good in that in certain times of the year the distillery goes 'quiet' for a while for maintenance and was supposed to start in early July. I think tours are given then with explanations but you don't actually get to see all the equipment operating.
I read that in the height of tourist season, there aren't enough tour slots for everyone. That wasn't a problem for us, but if I had an extra day in the summer, I'd maybe buy tickets in advance for a certain time or get there sooner than 3:00 just in case.
DH didn't join us on the tour due to the many stairs, but he received a voucher for a taste and met us in the restaurant area after our tour.
DUNLUCE CASTLE
The last stop of the day was to this ruined castle right on the edge of the cliffs. Entry includes a very informative self-guided audio tour through all the different outbuildings. The kids were given a special scavenger hunt to find hidden artifacts in the castle. The views were spectacular, both of the castle and the surrounding scenery. There are paths at some of the outside walls too, which the boys explored.
If you want a great view of the entire castle, drive a bit towards Portrush. On the right is a parking lot with a wonderful view of the entire complex. (I also visited with a wonderful herd of cows there who followed me back and forth from their side of the fence. Great photo-op if they are there!)
WAITING FOR THE MUSIC!
We knew our guest house was having music that night, so we went to take a nap, then went into the pub for dinner and to have a good table for the entertainment.
So, one of my absolute favorite meals of the trip was here! Colcanon chicken and mash! The traditional colcanon mashed potatoes were prepared with bacon and cabbage, and the chicken had a sauce of bacon and leeks. So delicious! DD had a very good curry dish and DS had the Bushmills chicken with, what else, a whiskey sauce and champs, mashed potatoes with scallions. Everything was wonderful, but the joke was on us...the 'music' that night was modern played by a DJ, not the traditional Irish music we had been anticipating. (Turns out the nights for that at this pub are on Tues and Thurs.)
It seems that you can't go to Northern Ireland without going on the tour of this distillery so after Giant's Causeway we took the short ride over to the town of Bushmills. We were lucky in that the 3:00 tour was about to leave so off we went. Bushmills is supposedly the oldest licensed distillery in the world, since 1608. We were taken through the all work areas, starting with the vats of raw ingredients and ending at the stage where the maturation in different types of wood barrels is explained. Some areas are very hot so be prepared.
We learned how Scotch whiskey is distilled twice and the grain is dried by burning peat which gives a smokey flavor, whereas Bushmills is distilled three times and uses clean air to dry the grain for a clearer and lighter taste. The bottling area was not in operation that day (it doesn't run Friday afternoons or weekend), but we were shown a video instead. It's funny that Jameson's whiskey is shipped up there for bottling, but can't be stored or sold there. It comes in in trucks, is bottled and shipped right back out.
The liquid souvenir at the end was very nice too
with a choice of whiskeys to taste.Our timing was good in that in certain times of the year the distillery goes 'quiet' for a while for maintenance and was supposed to start in early July. I think tours are given then with explanations but you don't actually get to see all the equipment operating.
I read that in the height of tourist season, there aren't enough tour slots for everyone. That wasn't a problem for us, but if I had an extra day in the summer, I'd maybe buy tickets in advance for a certain time or get there sooner than 3:00 just in case.
DH didn't join us on the tour due to the many stairs, but he received a voucher for a taste and met us in the restaurant area after our tour.
DUNLUCE CASTLE
The last stop of the day was to this ruined castle right on the edge of the cliffs. Entry includes a very informative self-guided audio tour through all the different outbuildings. The kids were given a special scavenger hunt to find hidden artifacts in the castle. The views were spectacular, both of the castle and the surrounding scenery. There are paths at some of the outside walls too, which the boys explored.
If you want a great view of the entire castle, drive a bit towards Portrush. On the right is a parking lot with a wonderful view of the entire complex. (I also visited with a wonderful herd of cows there who followed me back and forth from their side of the fence. Great photo-op if they are there!)
WAITING FOR THE MUSIC!
We knew our guest house was having music that night, so we went to take a nap, then went into the pub for dinner and to have a good table for the entertainment.
So, one of my absolute favorite meals of the trip was here! Colcanon chicken and mash! The traditional colcanon mashed potatoes were prepared with bacon and cabbage, and the chicken had a sauce of bacon and leeks. So delicious! DD had a very good curry dish and DS had the Bushmills chicken with, what else, a whiskey sauce and champs, mashed potatoes with scallions. Everything was wonderful, but the joke was on us...the 'music' that night was modern played by a DJ, not the traditional Irish music we had been anticipating. (Turns out the nights for that at this pub are on Tues and Thurs.)
Jul 18th, 2014, 05:07 PM
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I love your report! Northern Ireland is on my to do list. I have relatives form both sides of my Dad's family from there. I love Colcanon and that sounds delish. I am bookmarking this. Did you drive right on by Belfast?
Jul 19th, 2014, 04:40 AM
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I admit this was an unusual itinerary going to all 4 sides of Ireland in 10 days - we didn't have time to stop in Belfast, just drove right on through - but despite all the driving, I would definitely do it again. No regrets! We saw all our top places and many places which were recommended to us, and it was wonderful. Sometimes you just have to do it!
On the other hand, Ireland was so beautiful, we still have areas we didn't get to so who knows, maybe (hopefully) another trip someday.
I have one more full day to write about - we had to get back to Dublin - and even though nothing had initially been planned except for driving, it turned into a great day as well. Never a dull moment!
Today I help my second son (the one getting married next month) move into his new home and soon DS1 gets back from his honeymoon, but hopefully I'll be able to carve out the time to finish my report in between the constant activity. I'll need another vacation soon!
On the other hand, Ireland was so beautiful, we still have areas we didn't get to so who knows, maybe (hopefully) another trip someday.
I have one more full day to write about - we had to get back to Dublin - and even though nothing had initially been planned except for driving, it turned into a great day as well. Never a dull moment!
Today I help my second son (the one getting married next month) move into his new home and soon DS1 gets back from his honeymoon, but hopefully I'll be able to carve out the time to finish my report in between the constant activity. I'll need another vacation soon!
Jul 19th, 2014, 07:00 AM
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Hi Kwren, Still reading! Great trip report - it's getting me very excited about my trip in Sept.
A couple questions - Did you get a phone while you were there? It seems like you didn't. I'm just wondering if I should get one. It would nice to be unplugged for a while! My DH would love that! Also, did you have a GPS?
You put great details into your TR - it's what we are looking to read! Thanks!
A couple questions - Did you get a phone while you were there? It seems like you didn't. I'm just wondering if I should get one. It would nice to be unplugged for a while! My DH would love that! Also, did you have a GPS?
You put great details into your TR - it's what we are looking to read! Thanks!
Jul 19th, 2014, 07:54 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement Labattlovr! What are your plans so far? Which area(s) are you going to? I got a lot of ideas from other TR's so I hope that reading my report was a help to you.
We didn't have a phone, and the couple of times we really needed one because of our car dying, a hotel and the reception desk at one of the attractions were only too happy to let us use theirs. If you are going to Skellig Michael, you should make a reservation in advance and then you would need to call the boat to confirm the day before, but I personally wouldn't get a phone just for that. We liked being unplugged too (although we did only stay in places with WiFi just in case).
Our son also had a phone since he's in Dublin for 2 months, but we didn't use it while he was with us other than for him to touch base to meet his mentor (didn't mention that yet).
We also didn't accept the GPS when we rented our car and didn't miss it while there for the first week. When our car was exchanged, they had a working GPS in it - probably so the guy driving the new one to us could easily find the National Stud. We were happy to have it, but didn't really depend on it since the rental company gave us an excellent map, we had some guide books with maps of specific areas and the road signs were really good. A slight exception to this was our last day looking for one Game of Thrones site. We had directions from the Internet which got us there, but it was nice to see that we were going the right way. So for us, it wasn't necessary and we didn't miss it.
We didn't have a phone, and the couple of times we really needed one because of our car dying, a hotel and the reception desk at one of the attractions were only too happy to let us use theirs. If you are going to Skellig Michael, you should make a reservation in advance and then you would need to call the boat to confirm the day before, but I personally wouldn't get a phone just for that. We liked being unplugged too (although we did only stay in places with WiFi just in case).
Our son also had a phone since he's in Dublin for 2 months, but we didn't use it while he was with us other than for him to touch base to meet his mentor (didn't mention that yet).
We also didn't accept the GPS when we rented our car and didn't miss it while there for the first week. When our car was exchanged, they had a working GPS in it - probably so the guy driving the new one to us could easily find the National Stud. We were happy to have it, but didn't really depend on it since the rental company gave us an excellent map, we had some guide books with maps of specific areas and the road signs were really good. A slight exception to this was our last day looking for one Game of Thrones site. We had directions from the Internet which got us there, but it was nice to see that we were going the right way. So for us, it wasn't necessary and we didn't miss it.
Jul 20th, 2014, 04:06 PM
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Hi Kwren - we are flying in and out of Shannon and are pretty much sticking to the southwest area. First 2 nights in Doolin, 1 night in Kilkee then maybe the Killimer Ferry to Talbert? Portmagee for 2 nights (I don't know if I can do Skellig Michael - I hike a lot but the description of the stairs that you gave kind of scared me! Next 2 nights in Bantry then off to Dingle (Dingle Tradfest)for 2 nights. Kinsale is next for one night and then I have 2 open nights and I think we're going to drive up to Connemara for 2 nights. Last night in Ennis. I have a list of places to go to from each place and your TR report is helping to give me more ideas!
Jul 21st, 2014, 06:14 AM
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OUR OWN 'GAME OF THRONES' TOUR
Our last full day in Ireland - how to make the most of it? The original plan was to leave in the morning and drive to Dublin for some touring there. That was not meant to be.
DS loves 'Game of Thrones' and when he realized that much of it was filmed in this region, he asked if we could see some of the sites. I don't watch but nevertheless...perfect! I gave DS the task of researching it himself. That would assure that he saw what interested him and most and it gave me a well-deserved break from planning! With a few conditions, I waited to see what he would come up with.
Here was his itinerary for the morning:
Ballintoy Harbor
Dark Hedges
Cushendun Caves
After our last full Irish breakfast of the trip *sniff* we were off.
Since we were staying in Ballintoy, it was a 1 minute drive to turn to the harbor. We had passed the sign quite a few times over the last 2 days, but with our schedule, it hadn't even occurred to us to take that tiny road. What a mistake that would have been! We passed the stark white Church of Ireland Church that we had been seeing over and over from wherever we were in that area, and zig-zagged down the narrow road into a charming and cozy tiny harbor of colorful fishing boats, off-coast rock formations, huge rock faces, a beach, caves, a man-made jetty and great views of the cliffs we had just come down. So peaceful and hardly anyone there. I will tell you that you don't have to be a fan of the 'Game of Thrones' to fall in love with this secluded little gem, although there was a big sign with GoT info by the water for those who are interested. I could have stayed there all day, and the boys loved climbing on the rocks. Don't miss it if you are in the area and love natural sites!
Next we followed some convoluted directions from Google to the middle of nowhere (Stranocum was the town - now that I look it up, wouldn't that have been much easier to Google?! Oh well, this was much more adventurous for us!) and the Dark Hedges. We didn't really need the GPS as the directions turned out to be very good, but it did serve to give us confidence that we hadn't gone astray. WOW!!! What greeted us after that last turn was amazing! A long row of twisting, gnarled trees with branches that wound amongst the others to form a canopy all the way down the gently undulating road. The perfect setting for a medieval film, but again, you certainly don't need to be a GoT fan to enjoy this. I never saw anything like it. There were a few other cars there, but I could imagine if you were there alone, that you would have some spectacular pictures. (Mine were pretty good anyway, but I sure wished those other people hadn't been walking down the road!) Maybe alone at dusk, the words mystical or eerie might come to mind. Go there - you will thank me!
Now I can help you find this:
from an Internet site, try: at the end of Bregagh Road nearest to Gracehill Golf Club [GPS Coordinates: N 55.134488 W: 6.3808250] (not my coordinates, but maybe worth a try)
OR
Google the Hedges Hotel and use their map:
http://thehedgeshotel.com/contact-us/
This is a new hotel with a wonderful stone wall and wrought iron gates fronting the road. Coat of arms on the gates and walls, huge golden eagles on the columns. Pretty amazing to come across this after seeing these trees. Contrast the old and new. Culture shock! They are taking full advantage of this random site in the countryside. Anyway, standing on the road facing these gates, the trees would be to your left, down the road a bit and turning off to the left.
Trivia - I read that these were 250 - 300 year old Beechwood trees, for what it's worth.
From the Dark Hedges, we went north to Ballycastle and followed the coastal route east to Cushundun. We had nothing specific here other than there was a beach caves used in the GoT filming. We passed a beach as we entered the town, but it was very flat and not conducive to caving. Cushendun has a row of 4-story white and yellow townhouse-like buildings jutting out towards the ocean. There was a small mountain out behind them so we decided to explore out there next. We turned left just past the bridge after the little harbor, drove as far as we could, parked and bingo...a tiny beach with a large cave at the end - success! As usual, it was the rock formations, tiny hill and waves that caught my eye, but DS went right for the cave. I went in and...it was a series of caves. The main one was short with a barred opening at the far end, but what I like was the view from the end of a mossy fern-edged path up the hill. Green, soft, beautiful.
Our last full day in Ireland - how to make the most of it? The original plan was to leave in the morning and drive to Dublin for some touring there. That was not meant to be.
DS loves 'Game of Thrones' and when he realized that much of it was filmed in this region, he asked if we could see some of the sites. I don't watch but nevertheless...perfect! I gave DS the task of researching it himself. That would assure that he saw what interested him and most and it gave me a well-deserved break from planning! With a few conditions, I waited to see what he would come up with.
Here was his itinerary for the morning:
Ballintoy Harbor
Dark Hedges
Cushendun Caves
After our last full Irish breakfast of the trip *sniff* we were off.
Since we were staying in Ballintoy, it was a 1 minute drive to turn to the harbor. We had passed the sign quite a few times over the last 2 days, but with our schedule, it hadn't even occurred to us to take that tiny road. What a mistake that would have been! We passed the stark white Church of Ireland Church that we had been seeing over and over from wherever we were in that area, and zig-zagged down the narrow road into a charming and cozy tiny harbor of colorful fishing boats, off-coast rock formations, huge rock faces, a beach, caves, a man-made jetty and great views of the cliffs we had just come down. So peaceful and hardly anyone there. I will tell you that you don't have to be a fan of the 'Game of Thrones' to fall in love with this secluded little gem, although there was a big sign with GoT info by the water for those who are interested. I could have stayed there all day, and the boys loved climbing on the rocks. Don't miss it if you are in the area and love natural sites!
Next we followed some convoluted directions from Google to the middle of nowhere (Stranocum was the town - now that I look it up, wouldn't that have been much easier to Google?! Oh well, this was much more adventurous for us!) and the Dark Hedges. We didn't really need the GPS as the directions turned out to be very good, but it did serve to give us confidence that we hadn't gone astray. WOW!!! What greeted us after that last turn was amazing! A long row of twisting, gnarled trees with branches that wound amongst the others to form a canopy all the way down the gently undulating road. The perfect setting for a medieval film, but again, you certainly don't need to be a GoT fan to enjoy this. I never saw anything like it. There were a few other cars there, but I could imagine if you were there alone, that you would have some spectacular pictures. (Mine were pretty good anyway, but I sure wished those other people hadn't been walking down the road!) Maybe alone at dusk, the words mystical or eerie might come to mind. Go there - you will thank me!
Now I can help you find this:
from an Internet site, try: at the end of Bregagh Road nearest to Gracehill Golf Club [GPS Coordinates: N 55.134488 W: 6.3808250] (not my coordinates, but maybe worth a try)
OR
Google the Hedges Hotel and use their map:
http://thehedgeshotel.com/contact-us/
This is a new hotel with a wonderful stone wall and wrought iron gates fronting the road. Coat of arms on the gates and walls, huge golden eagles on the columns. Pretty amazing to come across this after seeing these trees. Contrast the old and new. Culture shock! They are taking full advantage of this random site in the countryside. Anyway, standing on the road facing these gates, the trees would be to your left, down the road a bit and turning off to the left.
Trivia - I read that these were 250 - 300 year old Beechwood trees, for what it's worth.
From the Dark Hedges, we went north to Ballycastle and followed the coastal route east to Cushundun. We had nothing specific here other than there was a beach caves used in the GoT filming. We passed a beach as we entered the town, but it was very flat and not conducive to caving. Cushendun has a row of 4-story white and yellow townhouse-like buildings jutting out towards the ocean. There was a small mountain out behind them so we decided to explore out there next. We turned left just past the bridge after the little harbor, drove as far as we could, parked and bingo...a tiny beach with a large cave at the end - success! As usual, it was the rock formations, tiny hill and waves that caught my eye, but DS went right for the cave. I went in and...it was a series of caves. The main one was short with a barred opening at the far end, but what I like was the view from the end of a mossy fern-edged path up the hill. Green, soft, beautiful.
Jul 21st, 2014, 06:32 AM
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CUSHENDUN GOAT
Going down to the caves and near the harbor, we noticed a white goat sleeping by the edge of the road. Not exactly what we expected to see. Coming back, we saw a statue of a goat. Here is what I read on the Internet:
"Another famous character of Cushendun is Johann the goat, a sculpture by the artist Deborah Brown is to his memory. He was a feature in the harbour area, grazing the river bank and welcoming visitors, especially those with edible items such as apples or carrots. Unfortunately during the Foot & Mouth outbreak of 2001, he had to be put down and was one of the last animals to die during the cull. Today, another goat carries on his legacy in the shadow of his sculpture."
It seems to be a bit of a controversy with the locals to have a statue of a goat in Cushendun, although go figure that it doesn't seem to bother people that an actual goat hangs out there. I thought the statue was quite charming.
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/GOAT+O...ON.-a090391946
Going down to the caves and near the harbor, we noticed a white goat sleeping by the edge of the road. Not exactly what we expected to see. Coming back, we saw a statue of a goat. Here is what I read on the Internet:
"Another famous character of Cushendun is Johann the goat, a sculpture by the artist Deborah Brown is to his memory. He was a feature in the harbour area, grazing the river bank and welcoming visitors, especially those with edible items such as apples or carrots. Unfortunately during the Foot & Mouth outbreak of 2001, he had to be put down and was one of the last animals to die during the cull. Today, another goat carries on his legacy in the shadow of his sculpture."
It seems to be a bit of a controversy with the locals to have a statue of a goat in Cushendun, although go figure that it doesn't seem to bother people that an actual goat hangs out there. I thought the statue was quite charming.
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/GOAT+O...ON.-a090391946
Jul 24th, 2014, 09:14 AM
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The newlyweds got home last night and are still sleeping so I thought I'd see what I can get done here.
We left Northern Ireland via the highway through Belfast, following signs for "The South'. Funny how there was less traffic this way than avoiding Belfast on the way up. The only thing I can comment on was a huge unispere-like structure sitting by a bridge over the highway, like a huge hollow ball made out of Tinker Toys. It could have been over 100 feet tall. Anyone know what it is?
As quickly as we were in Belfast, we were out again in the beautiful patchwork quilted rolling hills of the north. Then it wasn't long until we were back in Ireland, with our pockets still full of now-useless pounds (until the next trip that is! )
We decided to stop at one more site on the way to Dublin, one which DH had wanted to see since the trip planning began and the one we didn't think we could fit in.
BRU NA BOINNE VISITORS CENTER and NEWGRANGE
Another stop which, according to what I had read, gets very crowded and a long wait could be expected. Once again, we were lucky as we were the last to join the next tour 25 minutes from our arrival. You start at the visitors center and take a shuttle to a guided tour of the passage tombs. There is no direct public access and only a certain number of visitors are allowed each day.
In the meantime, there was an informative short video about the passage tombs and their significance, the most amazing aspect being how the sunlight enters a small opening above the entrance and lights up the inner chamber exactly at the winter solstice.
While we waited for the shuttle, we were very interested in a poster listing all the World Heritage sites. I've been to a decent number of them, but so many more to go! Interestingly, we could check off the only two in Ireland after this trip - Skellig Michael and we were about to see Newgrange - and the only one in Northern Ireland - Giant's Causeway. And we didn't even plan this!
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/
https://www.irelands-blue-book.ie/it...s-ireland-html
Once at Newgrange, we were given a quick run-down of its history and were split into two groups. Ours had time to wander around the hill and see the neolithic art carvings on the 97 large rocks lined up all the way around the base. It is not actually known exactly what the tomb looked like originally. When it was excavated, many of the rocks of the walls had fallen so archeologists tried to piece them back together to reconstruct the site. The guide said they may have had the design of the rocks wrong, but the overall tomb was correct.
While walking around the tomb, I was shocked to see a boy about 10 years old walking on top of the large rocks circling the tomb. I looked around for his parents just as he plucked a rock out of the wall! OMG! I couldn't help it - I took on the parental role and told that boy to put that rock back, get down and never touch anything there again! Wow - I didn't know I had that in me, but I couldn't help remembering the tour guide telling us how everything was monitored and guided now because of vandalism in the past. Vandal in the making!
Newgrange is over 5000 years old (more than 1000 years older than Stonehenge) and was built by a farming community. It was important in astrological, spiritual and religious ways. Entering, you go through a very narrow passageway into the inner chamber. The rocks were not held together with mortar, only piled perfectly to form the vault. There were some tiny areas off the sides where some religious ceremonies might have taken place. There were different symbols visible in some of the chamber walls or ceilings, the most famous being the triple spiral. Unfortunately, no pictures allowed in there.
Once deep in the tomb, the lights were turned out and the illumination of the chamber was reenacted. The actual event on the winter solstice lasts 17 minutes. It was very quick for us. There is a lottery to select a few people who may enter the chamber at the winter solstice. You can sign up for your chance at the visitors center. Of course, you could go all that way in December to find that it's overcast and the chamber doesn't light up. I guess that's the risk you take, but wouldn't it be cool to be there in the darkness waiting for the longest night of the year to end! (We didn't put our names in the lottery.)
We left Northern Ireland via the highway through Belfast, following signs for "The South'. Funny how there was less traffic this way than avoiding Belfast on the way up. The only thing I can comment on was a huge unispere-like structure sitting by a bridge over the highway, like a huge hollow ball made out of Tinker Toys. It could have been over 100 feet tall. Anyone know what it is?
As quickly as we were in Belfast, we were out again in the beautiful patchwork quilted rolling hills of the north. Then it wasn't long until we were back in Ireland, with our pockets still full of now-useless pounds (until the next trip that is!
)We decided to stop at one more site on the way to Dublin, one which DH had wanted to see since the trip planning began and the one we didn't think we could fit in.
BRU NA BOINNE VISITORS CENTER and NEWGRANGE
Another stop which, according to what I had read, gets very crowded and a long wait could be expected. Once again, we were lucky as we were the last to join the next tour 25 minutes from our arrival. You start at the visitors center and take a shuttle to a guided tour of the passage tombs. There is no direct public access and only a certain number of visitors are allowed each day.
In the meantime, there was an informative short video about the passage tombs and their significance, the most amazing aspect being how the sunlight enters a small opening above the entrance and lights up the inner chamber exactly at the winter solstice.
While we waited for the shuttle, we were very interested in a poster listing all the World Heritage sites. I've been to a decent number of them, but so many more to go! Interestingly, we could check off the only two in Ireland after this trip - Skellig Michael and we were about to see Newgrange - and the only one in Northern Ireland - Giant's Causeway. And we didn't even plan this!
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/
https://www.irelands-blue-book.ie/it...s-ireland-html
Once at Newgrange, we were given a quick run-down of its history and were split into two groups. Ours had time to wander around the hill and see the neolithic art carvings on the 97 large rocks lined up all the way around the base. It is not actually known exactly what the tomb looked like originally. When it was excavated, many of the rocks of the walls had fallen so archeologists tried to piece them back together to reconstruct the site. The guide said they may have had the design of the rocks wrong, but the overall tomb was correct.
While walking around the tomb, I was shocked to see a boy about 10 years old walking on top of the large rocks circling the tomb. I looked around for his parents just as he plucked a rock out of the wall! OMG! I couldn't help it - I took on the parental role and told that boy to put that rock back, get down and never touch anything there again! Wow - I didn't know I had that in me, but I couldn't help remembering the tour guide telling us how everything was monitored and guided now because of vandalism in the past. Vandal in the making!
Newgrange is over 5000 years old (more than 1000 years older than Stonehenge) and was built by a farming community. It was important in astrological, spiritual and religious ways. Entering, you go through a very narrow passageway into the inner chamber. The rocks were not held together with mortar, only piled perfectly to form the vault. There were some tiny areas off the sides where some religious ceremonies might have taken place. There were different symbols visible in some of the chamber walls or ceilings, the most famous being the triple spiral. Unfortunately, no pictures allowed in there.
Once deep in the tomb, the lights were turned out and the illumination of the chamber was reenacted. The actual event on the winter solstice lasts 17 minutes. It was very quick for us. There is a lottery to select a few people who may enter the chamber at the winter solstice. You can sign up for your chance at the visitors center. Of course, you could go all that way in December to find that it's overcast and the chamber doesn't light up. I guess that's the risk you take, but wouldn't it be cool to be there in the darkness waiting for the longest night of the year to end! (We didn't put our names in the lottery.)
Jul 25th, 2014, 06:45 AM
#96
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Almost done...whew!
After Newgrange, we went to Howth, a small town on the outskirts of Dublin, to meet the doctor our son is doing his internship with. We found him and he took us to an outside pub he called the Doghouse (although I didn't see a sign and don't know if that's really the name - maybe he was just in it at home!). His wife and 3 friends were there too so it was a really fun evening of eating and drinking. After that, we went back to the area near the airport and checked into our last B&B, the Almanii. Very tight parking out front, but it was a residential area so we were happy to have a spot. Pretty triple room, spotless bathroom. We were offered tea and shown the breakfast room and told to help ourselves to anything there.
Since our son was still with us, we took a driving tour through Dublin and stopped for more food. Dublin was fairly calm with no traffic problems so we enjoyed the drive. Next trip we'll spend more time there.
Nothing much else to say except a comment about the B&B. Our last morning, they offered us a hot breakfast even though it was before the regular breakfast hours and we appreciated it. I went to get a piece of fresh fruit. I opened the clear plastic fruit box and a swarm of fruit flies flew out
No wonder - a tangerine was half rotted and covered with white mold. Skipped that. I ate the breakfast - egg, sausage and delicious brown bread. After eating that, I took an end slice of brown bread and discovered the back was covered with blue mold. Ugh! Already ate one slice. So, the place is beautiful but beware the food! Makes you wonder how they care for the entire place, although I couldn't find anything else wrong.
So we returned the car and few home no problems.
What a spectacular trip, certainly not what what I had expected. Just wonderful!
After Newgrange, we went to Howth, a small town on the outskirts of Dublin, to meet the doctor our son is doing his internship with. We found him and he took us to an outside pub he called the Doghouse (although I didn't see a sign and don't know if that's really the name - maybe he was just in it at home!). His wife and 3 friends were there too so it was a really fun evening of eating and drinking. After that, we went back to the area near the airport and checked into our last B&B, the Almanii. Very tight parking out front, but it was a residential area so we were happy to have a spot. Pretty triple room, spotless bathroom. We were offered tea and shown the breakfast room and told to help ourselves to anything there.
Since our son was still with us, we took a driving tour through Dublin and stopped for more food. Dublin was fairly calm with no traffic problems so we enjoyed the drive. Next trip we'll spend more time there.
Nothing much else to say except a comment about the B&B. Our last morning, they offered us a hot breakfast even though it was before the regular breakfast hours and we appreciated it. I went to get a piece of fresh fruit. I opened the clear plastic fruit box and a swarm of fruit flies flew out
No wonder - a tangerine was half rotted and covered with white mold. Skipped that. I ate the breakfast - egg, sausage and delicious brown bread. After eating that, I took an end slice of brown bread and discovered the back was covered with blue mold. Ugh! Already ate one slice. So, the place is beautiful but beware the food! Makes you wonder how they care for the entire place, although I couldn't find anything else wrong. So we returned the car and few home no problems.
What a spectacular trip, certainly not what what I had expected. Just wonderful!
Jul 31st, 2014, 03:31 AM
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Hi KWREN
No, you are not too "wordy." Love, the details, especially about INISHERE and what you folks did/saw there. Although I have been to Ireland several times, never made it to the Aran Isles and would love to do so. Nice description of the Cliffs too.
Saving the rest of your great report for when I have leisure. Thanks so much...
No, you are not too "wordy." Love, the details, especially about INISHERE and what you folks did/saw there. Although I have been to Ireland several times, never made it to the Aran Isles and would love to do so. Nice description of the Cliffs too.
Saving the rest of your great report for when I have leisure. Thanks so much...
