BayouGal

What a great discussion, and thank you all for blatantly pointing out the best and worst! I live in New Orleans and love the city, although I could point out lots of bad areas and other negatives, just as I could plan a trip that would have you loving it, too. As many previous posters said, a lot of this just goes with big cities anywhere. Thanks again . . . I wish every thread on Fodor's got down to the nitty gritty of the good and bad like this one has!

adamsparks

I was in Ireland last October. I agree with robinja, that Doolin was wonderful. However, we also loved Dingle. It was loaded with tourist while we were there---just the opposite. Dingle was magical, and my favorite area in Ireland, with Doolin a healthy second.

I did not get to Dublin when in Ireland. I am going to England in late April. So many choices while there, and part of the time will be spent in France. I could go to Dublin then. Did I miss something by not seeing Dublin, or can I turn my sights to more time in France?

Audie

We were in Ireland in mid September, traveled around quite a bit and went to Dublin after being in the West. Dublin is more like New York City than anything in Ireland, so be aware that it not so "Irish like", however the Book of Kells exhibit was amazing, and the art in the museums is worth the trip to Dublin. If you know what to expect you won't be disappointed. When I return, I will go to Dublin for a day or so and see any sites I missed and head straight back to West. That's where my family is from so I'm prejudiced. Also, we had the best Irish stew in McGann's in Doolin, and had a wonderful time in Dingle, fun pub and a great tour of the Peninsula.

mkdiebold

We loved Dublin! It is a lively contrast to the yawning countryside. Guess it really depends on what you like to do... the west holds much natural beauty definitely worth seeing. But we always enjoy visiting museums and taking walking tours. Dublin has a very interesting past. IMO it is not to be missed if you want to have a balanced experience of Ireland.

I thought this thread was about "what you'd do differently" the next time you visited Ireland. A couple of the "lessons we learned" include not selecting an automatic transmission for the car, and in making our B&B reservations ahead of time through a travel agent. The driving situation was so challening that an automatic would have been easier and, there is absolutely no need to make reservations ahead of time.

SiobhanP

Audie, I think its funny that you think Dublin is not so "Irish Like". MOst of the "Irish" touristy stuff is just that ...for the tourists. While a lot of it is fun etc this is not reality. People think this whole plastic paddy leprechaun toting stuff you get in some parts of the country is the real Ireland when in case its more for entertainment of tourists.

Dublin for me is the least like NYC than any other European city (I am from NY originally).

If you like countryside etc I can see why people may not like it but if you like a small walkable city with history and great (free) museums...then this is a good place to visit.

Ann41

Once again, I agree fully with Siobhan.

For my fellow Americans, consider how many people in the UK and Ireland think Orlando and Disney is the only thing the US has to offer, because that's the only place they go, year after year after mind-numbing year. So many never see NYC, San Francisco, Montana, the Everglades, etc., etc. Same thing with Americans who ignore Dublin. You're missing out on a big part of what makes Ireland Ireland.

With regards to hiking, walking, whatever, I love the hiking in Ireland. You can do an entire cross-country route that's about 350 miles. I tried to do it, but had to end it at 80 miles because of a foot injury. The trails were wonderful, and very little was by road.

So now I stick to trails in parks or in various mountains. I've never had trouble getting maps, usually at the tourist office.

Audie

Yes, Siobhan that's exactly what I meant by "Irish like", if that touristy bit is what you are looking for Dublin may not be what you might like. If you want to see some beautiful art in one location-within walking distance it can't be beat. And actually, most intelligent people know that the tourist bits are just that.

SiobhanP

Honestly, no offence intended Audie. I just feel people are still looking for the Quiet man and Darby O'Gill and the little people type of Ireland when there are really only small parts like this left. People seem to expect to be entertained this way and don't see some of the other lovely things to do like Ann41 mentions (hiking) and you yourself about architecture and museums. I still have a fun night when I take visiting firends on the musical pub crawls and Johnnie Foxes as well. But its more a show than how people live and entertain ourselves. The Jury's cabaret shows are probably my least favourite as they have little true Irish content but its entertaining to many people so it works.

P.S. I love the countryside as well but don't have the time to always get there

Melissa5

robinja, thanks for sharing your report. I'm planning our first family trip to Ireland. I think we will fly into dublin and out of shannon.

People on-line here seem to love Doolin. I wonder if it gets really crowded in June? We're going in June 2006. (Yes, I'm getting an early start on planning because I'm so excited!)

evanjva1

Bear in mind that we use public transportation exclusively so there may be a slight hike to places but not really more than fifteen minutes from a bus stop or train station.

Arrived Shannon airport on Sunday and caught bus to Limerick. A friend we met at the bus shed told us where to get off and instructed the driver to make sure he stopped there. He did and we walked up the short cul-de-sac to Glen Eagles (not that Glen Eagles, but very nice.) <[email protected]> About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Helen and Patrick Daly

In Dingle on Monday we stayed at Dingle Heights. <www.dingleheights.com, or [email protected]> Ask for a front room overlooking the harbor. Bridie Fitzgerald was our hostess. Very nice view and about 30 Euros pps ensuite. We had our first, of many, bowl, of Irish stew at O'Grady's across from the tourist board along the waterfront. We lucked out and were able to attend a folk concert of harp, guitars, penny whistle at St. James Church. But we heard lots of music around town as we went back to our bnb after the concert. One place is a hardware store by day and a pub by night! We got cheated out of our tour to Slea Head by the well know local tour operator who renigged on our email reservation. So we will have to go back! And use someone else.

Stayed in Killarney at Cloghroe <[email protected]> about 30 Euros pps ensuite, on Tuesday and did the Gap of Dunloe (three lakes by boat and through the Gap by jaunting car (otherwise a 7 mile walk) on Wednesday. Glad we didn't do the Ring of Kerry. Our hostess Margaret arranged the tour for us. Ate at Murphy's, known for it's pub grub.

Had to spend Wednesday night in Tralee since it is a long haul by bus from Killarney to Doolin. Stayed at The Willows, about five minutes from the bus station. <wwwthewillowsbnb.com or [email protected]> About 30 Euros pps ensuite. On Mary's recommendation we went to the Grand Hotel and ate in the pub section. Excellent food. Next day we walked out (rode the bus back) to the Blennerville Windmill before having to catch our bus to Doolin.

On Thursday night in Doolin we stayed at Nellie Dees. <www.nellie-dees.com or [email protected]> The bus driver will drop you at the door if you ask and it is across the road from one of the hostels. Only about five years old, all wood floors, very nice. Jimmy and Loraine Spencer. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. It was a bit of a hike to downtown Doolin but there were two pubs (out of 3) very nearby where we spent the evening eating delicious Irish stew and listening to trad music at McDermott's.

The next morning we hiked into town ("just a wee walk and a right at the bridge&quot. We passed several bnbs on the way that looked nice. We caught the ferry to Inishoor. Had to ride a carrick out to the ferry because the tide was out. That was a neat experience, although my wife was not really keen on it but nobody fell overboard.

Arrived on Inishoor (Inishere) on Friday and headed to our bnb, Tigh Searraigh. About 25 Euros pps ensuite. <[email protected]> Basic but clean and warm. Went for a tour around the island. It is only 2 km 2km so we knew we couldn't get too lost but the stone fences did start looking just like the last one. My wife got her Aran sweater made (supposedly) on the island. We went to pub (Fitzgerald's I think. There are only about 3 places to eat on the island) for supper and music. A bit of wait for the music but the food was great and the strawberry rhubarb pie was so good we ordered a second round. Bailey’s ice cream on it was heavenly. I have never tasted such a delicious ice cream! Called it a night about 10 PM and was up the next day to catch the 9 AM ferry back to Doolin and 12 noon bus to Ennis for our last night before catching our flight out of Shannon.

Saturday night we stayed at Stonehaven in Ennis <www.stonehaven-clare.com or [email protected]> about 15 minute walk from bus station but Marie would have collected us if we had called. Very nice family, especially Joseph the 7 year old. About 30 Euros pps ensuite. Ennis is a market town and we were there Saturday, market day. Neat!

Back to the train/bus station for our bus to Shannon airport and on to Scotland..

You can certainly see more if you rent a car but we didn't want the stress. Also, we noticed that more pubs are catching on to the attraction of pub grub by tourists and are starting to provide table service instead of us ordering at the bar. The price sometimes increases accordingly.

This may be more than you really wanted to know but we had a blast and are talking about doing the same tour again. I probably would not do Dublin again but there is something about the Southwest of Ireland that is magical. I will send you some Irish links if you will send me your email address. We are in Virginia Beach, VA [email protected]

jake

Leisa, I just read your reply from Buzzy and I agree with you 100%. Yes it's true that there is a drug problem in Dublin(like almost every major city on the planet!) but to fool yourself into thinking that you can escape this by moving to the country is ridiculous. I'm in the process of buying a house an hour outside Dublin simply beacuse I can not afford to live in Dublin. I don't fool myself into thinking there are no drugs where I'm moving to. There are of course. But on a much smaller scale because it's a smaller town. Buzzy FYI I have relatives that live in a small-ish Irish town and believe me, the drug problem is huge. As for the comparison with Ibiza..get real!

jake

Siobhanp I have just read your posts are fair play to you girl for setting the record straight on several things. I've lived in Dublin all my life and while it has it's problems it also has it's great points. And also I have to agree on the comment about NYC. I've only been to NY once but I honestly can't see the similarity with Dublin. (No offence to any New Yorkers, I had a great time and will definitely go back!)

tuckerdc

Robinja: Any specifics to offer for Cork (restaurants/shops/music/etc..). We'll have just one day there (off a Silverseas cruise)in early Sept. Thanks!

irishcolleen

Appreciate all the wonderful advice, and much of it confirms what I've already considered...It's my first trip abroad and all of my decendants are from Ireland (mostly Tralee). I'm also related to James Joyce by way of his cousin, Ann Joyce..I'm 3rd generation Chicago Irish. There's something fragmented about much of American life that draws me and I suspect many others to the 'mither sod'. I anticipate more tourists than I would prefer, and have assimilated the many comments into my planning.

We're into Dublin the first day and night, only because my travel mate hates to fly and wanted a non stop from LA. We'll drive our little car, use our vouchers (which I won't use again after hearing the comments, and hope to have many days and nights filled w/trad,craic and unexpected adventures. I suppose it's human nature to want to experience the Ireland of "The Quiet Man", but for me, it's much more than that. I have a deep feeling of pride and connection to a people (from whom I decended)and a land that might have suffered much but has managed in many areas to keep a poet and musician's heart alive, who appreciate traditions and have a strong sense of family. Something sadly many Americans have lost sight of. I don't care how corny it sounds but I can't wait to touch down on Irish soil and just be there! Your comments have confirmed my thoughts about Waterford, and the ROK...the fewer tourists (outside of our first and last in Dublin, which I am looking forward to seeing) the better for me! The Mizen, Dingle, Doolin are more for the likes of me. I've warned my traveling partner, I intend to lay in the grass and just look at the sky for a time, sit on a hill and think, and look out at Tralee Bay where I know my great grandmother, Mary Corcoran, looked out from as a young girl herself. Ireland should be felt I believe, and not just 'seen'. Thanks for the wonderful insights. I'm going April 15 to the 24th, and if you see a news story about an American being dragged back onto a plane in Dublin...that'll be me!
Colleen

LoveItaly

I have not had the pleasure of traveling to Ireland but something crossed my mind as I quickly read through all these post. And may I add I did not read each and every sentance.

Dublin is the way Dublin is. That is the big city of Ireland today. Just like Rome or Milan are the big cities of Italy, the way Italy is today. Even in the countryside expect for the remote areas the Italy in most people's mind really is not the reality anymore.

I think a lot of travellers go to "the old country" seeking the land and lifestyle that they heard about from their ancestors. And that is understandable.

But that would be like someone coming to the US and expecting the country and lifestyle of the US say in the 1930', 40's or 50's. It no longer exsist.

We all have visions and dreams of places we want to visit but I think a lot of these ideas are from family stories, movies, books etc. Then we land in that foreign country and we are shocked that it does not meet our expectations. And we feel that this city or that place is not the true country we went to visit.

But it is. It is what it is. Does that make sense? I don't know if I am explaining what I mean properly.

Brisbanite

I've lived in dublin for 2.5 years now. Here's a few things that the Irish americans might be disapointed with when they arrive.

1) The Irish (that are those who are irish, were born here and currently live here) do NOT consider you to be Irish. In fact they take offence to american's (and other nationals) referring to themselves as Irish.

2) The heriditary culture/attitudes handed down through generations of american Irish people are 19th century attitudes/culture which does not exist here any more.

3) and finally. NOBODY EXCEPT FOR CRIMINALS SUPPORT THE IRA!!! The General public of Ireland do not support the IRA. They consider them to be an organisation that is now obsolete and packed with criminals and low lifes. If you've ever given them money you should feel very guilty.

Brisbanite

>Dublin is a modern European city and is becoming more and more like an American city every year.Bit by bit they are knocking down the ancient parts of the city and building modern office blocks.


I was going to have a rant about Buzzy's comments which are completely false. But that's been covered so will commenton the above.

What you've stated is also completely untrue. Dublin has very strict planning regulations for their historic buildings. To negate the problem, new buildings are being build outside of the city centre area. Industrial estates and business parks outside of the city is where all of the commerce is these days and it's where all of the new modern buildings are being built.

Brisbanite

Oh and please note that this message is coming to you from my office at Sandyford Industrial Estate. Right next door to the Microsoft building and a minimum 30 min drive from the city centre (assuming no traffic).

Brisbanite

> intend to lay in the grass and just look at the sky for a time

If you mean that literally expect to get a wet bum. While Ireland has been blessed with the most beautiful soft flurescent green grass i've ever seen, it never stops raining for long enough for the ground to ever become in any way close to dry.

Even if we have 2-3 days in the row without rain, which is rare, expect the ground to be wet.

SiobhanP

I agree on all acounts except the rain...I haven't used my umbrella in ages. They was a small bit of spray last week but it only rains at night or when I am indoor it seems. I never rains as much as I thought it would when I moved here.

And yes I am so glad you mentioned the IRA.....they have been conning people with these romantic ideals and it is completely untrue. I don't think there is the support or donations for them like they used to get 20 years ago in the U.S. The McCartney sisters have shown who they really are and broken the silence.

Also regarding buildings, They cannot go higher than the siptu building at present. I believed now they will be allowed to go higher further along the Quays where all the new apts are going and the building that is going to house offices and U2's new studio.