Sorry to post again, but all of your comments on my original thread (plus comments on the other current Ireland threads) have led my wife & I to the following basic plan.

We fly into Shannon early Saturday a.m. (October 22), plan to visit the Cliffs of Moher & the Burren that day, then end up in Dingle.

Stay in Dingle Saturday and Sunday nights, exlpore the peninsula.

Move to either Killarney or Kenmare to set up shop for Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday nights. Explore the area around Killarney (national park, Gap of Dunloe, some but not all of the Ring--perhaps down to Sneem) and use this base for day trips to Mizen Head and western Cork.

Then back to the Shannon airport vicinity (either Bunratty, Ennis or Doolin) for our last night, Thursday, to be close to the airport.

Big Questions:

1. Killarney or Kenmare? (we realize it's late October, and we would like some things to do in town)
2. Should we stay further east Wednesday night, or is Killarney/Kenmare a suitable base (3 nights) for exploring east as far as Kinsale or even Cobh?
3. Any specific lodging recommendations for these specific towns--or should we not make reservations and wing it, given that it is the off-season?

Thanks in advance!

Looks like a great plan.

Although I've never stayed in Kenmare, a lot of people who have highly recommend it. I've driven thru it, and it's lovely. It looks like Kenmare would be more central.

Kinsale & Cobh would be a reach for the time you would be in Kenmare, I believe. Two days exploring the Gap of Dunloe & Muckross, & Sneem, and one day to do the Beara (drive the Healy Pass), & Mizen Head (out to the lighthouse) Peninsulas.

Be sure to check the October hours for Mizen Head (10:30 to 5pm). You could go there first & back track to do the Healy pass on your way back to Kenmare.

You will need some time for shopping and pub crawls. Looks like a fun trip!!

Budman to the rescue!

I appreciate the advice about Beara/Mizen Head/West Cork. The one thing we're trying NOT to do is pre-plan every moment, e.g. with day trips and driving eating up all of our time from Kenmare or Killarney.

Maybe the way to see West Cork area is on our way back to Ennis/Bunratty/Doolin on Thursday (our last real day before flying out Friday).

Save time for pub crawls? You bet! Every night, as sunset appears to be about 6:00 p.m. that time of year.

Because I don't sleep on the plane, I'd have trouble with the first day you have planned. (I'm assuming you're coming from the US on an overnight flight?) I can do the 3 hour trip from Shannon straight to Dingle, but I wouldn't be able to add the Cliffs and the Burren. I wonder if you could add them to your last day?

I'd choose Kenmare over Killarney as your base just because it's more centrally located given what you want to see. You'll have things to do in the evenings in either town. It's about a 2 hour drive from Kenmare to Kinsale.

I preferred Kenmare over Killarney. Kenmare is smaller why there are tourists there, I thought Killarney was much more tourist oriented and packed(but you are going in October-might not be that bad-We were there in May). From Kenmare we easily got to the Gap of Dunloe and Killarney Nat'l Park for the Day. It is very "difficult " to drive the Gap(although can be done)If you hike one way you'll want to take a horse and carriage ride back or just do the entire thing by horse. Give yourself a few hours if you hike it one way.
We really enjoyed staying in Virginias Guest House in Kenmare-Clean, Big rooms and one of the best breakfasts we had.

Kinsale vs. Cobh---KINSALE-for sure especially in October-it won't be crowded. Maybe it was just me but I really did not like Cobh I thought it was a bit dirty-It just did not appeal to us. If you only have a chance to see one-I'd pick Kinsale!Its Beautiful. -If you do chose to stay the night-We loved the OLD Presbertary-another awesome breakfast. Bright big clean rooms but it is a little$$.

Dingle-Emalaugh Lodge! We loved it there to it has a view of the harbor-you can walk into town-so its not noisy. Maggie the owner is great and again Big, bright,clean rooms and very reasonable!

Hi beach dweller:

I agree with the Kenmare notion also, though there won't be a ton of nightlife. Casey's may have something going on, but you may have to eat dinner there. You could also catch something in Killarney and make the drive back to Kenmare. I just really like the town of Kenmare.

Making it to Kinsale and back to Kenmare would be too much of a stretch IMO. In the time that you have, there is Plenty to see in the area that you will be. Relax and enjoy the west. You have a bit of luck this year becasue daylight savings time doesn't end until Oct 31 so sunset will still be after 6:00 PM.

I like your plan, but Kinsale might need to be left out. The rest looks like great fun. I agree with Mary that you might find yourself getting pretty tired on the drive that first day. That is a LOT to do on day 1. Timing on getting to the ferry will be important. It runs once an hour, on the hour from Killimer. If the weather is terrible when you arrive, going to the Cliffs of Moher may not be your best bet. Fortunately you will know the weather, because you will fly right over them on the way in (a pretty spectacular sight). I'm not sure you will really get to see much of the Burren that day and still be awake enough to make the drive to Dingle. You could feasilbly get the Cliffs in.

Bill

Try this:

Day 1: Drive from Shannon to Kinsale. Check into a B&B and catch a two hour nap, then explore, crawl the pubs and catch a good meal.

Day 2: Drive the N71 through Clonakilty, Leap and Skibbereen to Ballydehob. Tour Mizen Head and then Drive on to Kenmare for more pub crawling.

Day 3: Tour Ring of Beara, returning to Kenmare.. If time permits, ROK to Sneem, OR Moll's Gap, Ladies View and Torc Waterfall.

Day 4:More Killarney, OR full ROK.
I would shift base to Killarney for tonight, but you could remain in Kenmare as you see fit.

Day 5: Drive to Dingle, and select your B&B. Then, do Slea Head Drive,retrning to Dingle for the food and pubs.

Day 6: Drive to Doolin, via Conor Pass, Tralee and Listowel, to Tarbert Ferry (check Departure times). Then Killimer to Kilrush and Ennistymon, to the Cliffs of Moher and Doolin. End the day in Doolin, Ennis or Shannon. Doolin would be a bit of a stretch unless you have an afternoon departure. Even then, I would press for Bunratty, for the castle, folk park and shopping.

Itallian_Chauffer -- I like that itinerary -- it will definitely work. Very nice!!!

You guys and gals are great!

MaryZ, I really appreciate your comment about perhaps packing in too much the first day (I'll bet my wife agrees with you).

Joolleeb, great specific lodging recommendations, thanks!

Bill, Kenmare is sounding really good.

Italian Chauffer, wow--your *clockwise* itinerary really gives me something to think about! It solves the problem of too much on the first day; allows for some time in West Cork; retains lots of prime time around Kenmare/Killarney and Dingle. Thanks!!

I would like to say thanks to all of you as well. We are planning pretty much the same loop beginning October 8, but we will have 9 nights. My plan has been to head down to Kinsale for the first night or two, and based on the comments, especially Itallian Chauffeur, I am sticking with the plan. (Is there enough in Kinsale for 2 nights? Maybe we'll go up to Cork for a bit, my husband loves to go there. How far is Cobh?)

This will be the smallest piece of Ireland we have tried to see in one trip, so I am working on 2 nights in each area, with the final night in Bunratty. I'm thinking we will even have enough time to spend a night in Galway at the end, nothing like wandering around those streets! (we can even aim for Moran's on the way; thanks for the link, Budman!)

Bear in mind that we are only making suggestions (and living your trip vicariously, til time comes to plan our own next trip!). My suggestion is based on the compulsion I have to always move foreward and combine sightseeing with getting on to my next destination, so it won't work for everybody. You can click on my name for my trip report of our 11 day June trip, for details of our B&Bs in Killarney and Dingle, if interested. We heartily recommend both places to you. Never spent any time in Kenmare, though and have no overwhelming recommendations for Kinsale ( except for the desserts at Gina's Cafe!

just got back and I'm still jealous that you are going soon! Enjoy

I like the clockwise -stay in kinsale first couple of days plan- much better. Your origional plan of visiting the cliffs and then driving to dingle is way to ambitious in my opinion.


My parents just returned from Ireland and they hit all the places you mentioned and more and thier favorite place was Kenmare. Their favorite B&B, the Hawthorne house, was also in Kenmare. They said the hostess was exceedingly nice and that the B&B was exceedingly charming and also in a good location. They extended their stay there one day.

allisonm:

Two days in Kinsale is not a problem. Cohb, Blarney and Cork are all very reachable (under 20 miles). You could also add Midleton (Jameson's). If you are into music, check out DeBarra's in Clonakilty or the Lobby Bar in Cork City.

allison,

Definitely agree that two days around the Kinsale area could easily be filled.

I'd usually (and have) pick the Cobh side over Kinsale, but that's a taste thing. I like towns with a lived-in, everyday feel, while Kinsale feels more tourist centered. On the other hand, Kinsale is much more scrubby clean and full of shops and with big swarms of people carrying bags, even in shoulder season. It was nice to visit, but I enjoyed the quiet of going "home" to Cobh for us. It never seemed the least bit dirty to me, but you can see a couple of industrial structures across the water. It also has a train station. Kinsale would have more dining choices to choose from and be closer if you were heading west from there.

As I_C said, Cork, Kinsale, Blarney, Cobh are all within a fairly convenient touring circle.

Have to agrre with you there. We usually "park" ourselves in Watergrasshill. We like the small town feel and it helps that we have family there.
Likewise, whenever possible, we usually like too spend at least one night in Millstreet (not a tourist town, but less than 30 miles from Killarney, and some of the prettiest scenery and nicest people in Co. Cork).
Kinsale is a pretty tourist town, the kind of place I'd rather visit, than stay in.

Thanks Clifton and I_C, I am thinking of two nights in Kinsale only because one night will be the evening of our arrival and we will be beat. The tentative plan at this point is to take our time on the drive to Kinsale via Blarney and Cork. I am hoping to find a B&B that can accommodate a slightly early arrival. We have been to Kinsale, so we have an idea of what to expect town-wise, although we were there in July, and this time will be in October. Since my husband likes Cork, I have also toyed with the idea of a hotel in the city for the first night, then we can knock around the city and head to Kinsale in the morning. From there we will be headed along the coast toward Dingle. We have 9 nights to do this loop, so I think we have plenty of time to meander. (Unless we go nuts and decide to go to Roundstone and buy a bodhran. This is something we didn't buy on the last trip and my husband has regretted it ever since! Yes, I am sure there are other places to buy one, but oh well!)

Beach dweller, I'm not sure, if my trip itinerary from last year, helps a little. We flew into Cork airport, then drove down south of Cork through, Kinsale (a bit touristy, but some nice shops, pubs) to a little B&B right on the waters edge, near Ballinspital. We ate in a village pub overlooking the water, just heaven. After our short stay, we drove around on the N71 to another fishing village, called Glandore. Mizen HEad is well worth the journey. Make sure you visit the village of Glengariff, and take the peninsula drive out towards Dursey Island. We stayed in Kenmare, a very nice town (had the best meal there). KIllarney was too touristy for us, but we did like walking in the Killarney National Park. There are some great walks up at Molls Gap. The Ring of Kerry we enjoyed, but only half of it was really very scenic. The Dingle Peninsula is worth staying a few days. Make sure to drive up to the Gap just behind Dingle township. Also there is a pub in Dingle (can't remember the name) in the backstreets, which has a plaque on the outside signifying a genuine Irish pub or something like that. A friend of mine worked there some years ago. When you go to the Burren, try to visit "Kilfenora" and have dinner or a pint in Vaughans Pub...I wont say anymore, but it is an experience not to be missed!
Also if you happen to drive through the Knockmealdown Mountains, visit the township of Lismore, a real pretty town on the river, and a castle thrown in as well. Also if you visit County Wicklow, try to visit Johnny Fox's pub, great craic.

Allison,

9 days to linger! We are jealous (coincidentally, my wife's name is Allison, spelled just as yours is).

Tropo,

the B&B you mentioned near Ballinspital might fit the bill just as well as Kinsale. I believe that we will be stopping there only on our first night and then moving west toward Kenmare. A pleasant dinner (and pints) plus a good night's rest will be all we are looking for that night.

Just a thought, Blarney is loaded with B&Bs and I'm sure you can find one to accept early check-in. You could drive in to Blarney, tour and then check-in or check-in AND then tour. Cork City is only 15 min. or so away (but they have all the city streets torn up, trying to get everything 'spruced up' for the '05 City of Culture - thing!).

If you are really beat, it might be nice to forstall that City traffic until after you've had a chance to nap.

Thanks, I_C, you are very good at this game of Fodors! You are constantly coming up with terrific solutions to travel dilemnas! (How do you spell that, anyway?) I'd never be able to nap in Blarney, the Woolen Mills will be calling my name! (Actually, I liked it so much better in 95; sometime between then and 2000 they redid the interior to make it look classy, but it lost all its charm, as is too often the way of improvements.)