Ira Does France
Oct 2nd, 2005, 09:26 AM
#63
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Day 2
Forgot to mention that with dinner last night we had our first bottle of local wine: a Lussac-St. Emilion – light and fruity enough to go with our chicken, yet complex enough to keep the taste buds working.
Although it had rained the day before, today was bright and clear.
Bkfst was served buffet style (except you were served one croissant and one roll) and had 2 kinds of bread for toast, 2 kinds of local cheeses, cereal, juice, coffee, milk, hot chocolate and fruit. This was repeated, with different cheeses and fruits each morning.
Off to St Emilion. Spent the morning touring St E and avoiding the “bargains” on low priced 1999 Grand Cru St. Emilion vintages. (’99 was not a good year).
Hadn’t yet realized that the compass didn’t work when it was inside the car and got lost leaving town. This is when we learned why the mirrors on European cars fold inward. The street we were on got narrower and narrower until, I had to back up and let LW out so that she could guide me between two houses that all but blocked the street. We got through without a scratch.
The rest of the day was spent touring the countryside.
Lunch at a little place somewhere between Branne and Bordeaux (we were lost) called “Le Bien Etre”. Ate outside under the trees on a low bluff that was high enough do that the road was hidden and the vineyards were all we could see. Two salads and 2 glasses of house wine were 24E.
LW had 3 slices of fried toast topped with rounds of goat cheese, surrounded by slices of cured ham and garden salad with pine nuts and Balsamic vinegar reduction.
I had four slices of duck foie gras, cured breast of duck, confit of duck gizzards, potatoes Sarladaise, and the same garden salad.
One wine was a Graves and the other a Haut Medoc, both quite good.
We found our way home by following the signs to Libourne and then to Puisseguin.
Note on driving in France: The roads are well maintained and the signage is quite good. Several times I abandoned my planned map route to follow the signs. Stay close to the right shoulder when rounding curves; French drivers seem to believe that they are the only vehicle on the road and often come down the middle.
Back to ST E, where we had dinner in the garden (under the trees) at L’Enverse du Decour (Motto: We turn wine into water)
We started with an hour or so of tasting all of their wines “by the glass”. I won’t bore you with the details. They were all Very Good to Excellent.
Roberta (aka Lady Wife) had the fricassee of mussels in a creamy, but not overwhelmingly rich, sauce with root vegetables. I had the Andouillette sausage. This is definitely an acquired taste, as it is strongly suggestive of eating a muddy barnyard. However, it went quite well with a 1987 Clos de Tonnelle which had a “polite” yet complex nose, a very smooth and velvety texture, and a palate that mixed butter, truffles, earth and tobacco, with other flavors that I couldn’t identify.
The sausage was accompanied by carrots and steamed potatoes with a pleasantly tangy mustard sauce.
Cheese plate was one sheep and one cow milk cheese with a salad and fruit preserves. Dessert was 3 kinds of lemon offerings: sorbet, cake and tart.
Dinner with wine and tip was 120E.
Returned home under lowering skies - heavy thunderstorms at night.
Day 3
We drove to Arcachon, stopping at the bird sanctuary on the way. The sanctuary is very interesting, but it is not a 3 km walk as the brochure says; it is actually 5. By the end of the walk, we were more than tuckered out.
The road is a major highway most of the way. Stay on the right, drive the speed limit, watch the signs and you will stay out of trouble.
Arcachon is a typical seaside resort town (lots of ways to separate the tourists from their money) with a nice bay and some interesting architecture. We drove out of town to see the ocean and the dune du Pilat (Europe’s largest sand dune) and then back to town, where we chose the 2nd restaurant we came to and had a lunch of oysters and other seafood. The oysters were remarkably tangy, sweet and plump. An amuse bouche of sardines and olives was served.
The repast was accompanied by a bottle of Sancerre – perfect with the oysters -and a bottle of Bordeaux Rose’. This was our first experience with the Rose’ wines of the South, and we became instant converts. They ain’t white Zinfandel.
Returning to the Chateau de Roques, we strolled about and changed for dinner at Le Belvedere (http://tinyurl.com/a8eom).
This is a small, mom and pop operation, seating about 16, perched on cliffs above the Dordogne with a marvelous view of the valley. After a little mixup over reservations – Chef Pestel seemed to think that we were a party of four named Baumann – we were seated and began a marvelous gourmand adventure.
Amuse bouche no. 1 was fish roe on buttered bread and goat cheese on toast. AB no. 2 was smoked salmon in mayonaisse with fresh sardine.
LW had the pressé de cailles (quail) with foie gras and a salad with truffle vinagrette. Her main was a duo of salmon and dessert was anise flavored ice cream. (41E). I had the 39E menu, starting with a salad of smoked salmon, artichokes, olives and shrimp followed by Sturgeon from the Dordogne, a trio of duck (confit, magret, foie gras), 4 cheeses from the Plat de Fromage (7 choices) and a pear sorbet with house made pear Eau de Vie.
With dinner we had several wines (according to the courses) and coffee after. The Chateau des Moines Vin Montagne de St. Emilion (15E for a ½ bttle) was particularly good, exhibiting earthy flavors of truffles and leather with hints of black berries and currants. With the cheeses, the wine took on flavors of raspberries and chocolate.
Service was attentive, discreet and pleasant. 120E with tip.
We drove back to the hotel under cloudless skies filled with an enormous Milky Way.
And so to bed.
TBC
A note on why gentlemen wear jackets to dinner: Those who don’t wear torn denims and tee shirts and carry cell phones that make very LOUD noises when they go off. The twit at least had the sense to go outside to talk. Chef Pestel took his phone away before he would let him back in, and Mrs Pestel spent a good five min apologizing to the rest of the patrons.
Why would someone pay 600E to buy torn denims at Armani when they can tear them at home for free?
Forgot to mention that with dinner last night we had our first bottle of local wine: a Lussac-St. Emilion – light and fruity enough to go with our chicken, yet complex enough to keep the taste buds working.
Although it had rained the day before, today was bright and clear.
Bkfst was served buffet style (except you were served one croissant and one roll) and had 2 kinds of bread for toast, 2 kinds of local cheeses, cereal, juice, coffee, milk, hot chocolate and fruit. This was repeated, with different cheeses and fruits each morning.
Off to St Emilion. Spent the morning touring St E and avoiding the “bargains” on low priced 1999 Grand Cru St. Emilion vintages. (’99 was not a good year).
Hadn’t yet realized that the compass didn’t work when it was inside the car and got lost leaving town. This is when we learned why the mirrors on European cars fold inward. The street we were on got narrower and narrower until, I had to back up and let LW out so that she could guide me between two houses that all but blocked the street. We got through without a scratch.
The rest of the day was spent touring the countryside.
Lunch at a little place somewhere between Branne and Bordeaux (we were lost) called “Le Bien Etre”. Ate outside under the trees on a low bluff that was high enough do that the road was hidden and the vineyards were all we could see. Two salads and 2 glasses of house wine were 24E.
LW had 3 slices of fried toast topped with rounds of goat cheese, surrounded by slices of cured ham and garden salad with pine nuts and Balsamic vinegar reduction.
I had four slices of duck foie gras, cured breast of duck, confit of duck gizzards, potatoes Sarladaise, and the same garden salad.
One wine was a Graves and the other a Haut Medoc, both quite good.
We found our way home by following the signs to Libourne and then to Puisseguin.
Note on driving in France: The roads are well maintained and the signage is quite good. Several times I abandoned my planned map route to follow the signs. Stay close to the right shoulder when rounding curves; French drivers seem to believe that they are the only vehicle on the road and often come down the middle.
Back to ST E, where we had dinner in the garden (under the trees) at L’Enverse du Decour (Motto: We turn wine into water)
We started with an hour or so of tasting all of their wines “by the glass”. I won’t bore you with the details. They were all Very Good to Excellent.
Roberta (aka Lady Wife) had the fricassee of mussels in a creamy, but not overwhelmingly rich, sauce with root vegetables. I had the Andouillette sausage. This is definitely an acquired taste, as it is strongly suggestive of eating a muddy barnyard. However, it went quite well with a 1987 Clos de Tonnelle which had a “polite” yet complex nose, a very smooth and velvety texture, and a palate that mixed butter, truffles, earth and tobacco, with other flavors that I couldn’t identify.
The sausage was accompanied by carrots and steamed potatoes with a pleasantly tangy mustard sauce.
Cheese plate was one sheep and one cow milk cheese with a salad and fruit preserves. Dessert was 3 kinds of lemon offerings: sorbet, cake and tart.
Dinner with wine and tip was 120E.
Returned home under lowering skies - heavy thunderstorms at night.
Day 3
We drove to Arcachon, stopping at the bird sanctuary on the way. The sanctuary is very interesting, but it is not a 3 km walk as the brochure says; it is actually 5. By the end of the walk, we were more than tuckered out.
The road is a major highway most of the way. Stay on the right, drive the speed limit, watch the signs and you will stay out of trouble.
Arcachon is a typical seaside resort town (lots of ways to separate the tourists from their money) with a nice bay and some interesting architecture. We drove out of town to see the ocean and the dune du Pilat (Europe’s largest sand dune) and then back to town, where we chose the 2nd restaurant we came to and had a lunch of oysters and other seafood. The oysters were remarkably tangy, sweet and plump. An amuse bouche of sardines and olives was served.
The repast was accompanied by a bottle of Sancerre – perfect with the oysters -and a bottle of Bordeaux Rose’. This was our first experience with the Rose’ wines of the South, and we became instant converts. They ain’t white Zinfandel.
Returning to the Chateau de Roques, we strolled about and changed for dinner at Le Belvedere (http://tinyurl.com/a8eom).
This is a small, mom and pop operation, seating about 16, perched on cliffs above the Dordogne with a marvelous view of the valley. After a little mixup over reservations – Chef Pestel seemed to think that we were a party of four named Baumann – we were seated and began a marvelous gourmand adventure.
Amuse bouche no. 1 was fish roe on buttered bread and goat cheese on toast. AB no. 2 was smoked salmon in mayonaisse with fresh sardine.
LW had the pressé de cailles (quail) with foie gras and a salad with truffle vinagrette. Her main was a duo of salmon and dessert was anise flavored ice cream. (41E). I had the 39E menu, starting with a salad of smoked salmon, artichokes, olives and shrimp followed by Sturgeon from the Dordogne, a trio of duck (confit, magret, foie gras), 4 cheeses from the Plat de Fromage (7 choices) and a pear sorbet with house made pear Eau de Vie.
With dinner we had several wines (according to the courses) and coffee after. The Chateau des Moines Vin Montagne de St. Emilion (15E for a ½ bttle) was particularly good, exhibiting earthy flavors of truffles and leather with hints of black berries and currants. With the cheeses, the wine took on flavors of raspberries and chocolate.
Service was attentive, discreet and pleasant. 120E with tip.
We drove back to the hotel under cloudless skies filled with an enormous Milky Way.
And so to bed.
TBC
A note on why gentlemen wear jackets to dinner: Those who don’t wear torn denims and tee shirts and carry cell phones that make very LOUD noises when they go off. The twit at least had the sense to go outside to talk. Chef Pestel took his phone away before he would let him back in, and Mrs Pestel spent a good five min apologizing to the rest of the patrons.
Why would someone pay 600E to buy torn denims at Armani when they can tear them at home for free?
Oct 2nd, 2005, 09:46 AM
#64
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I just had lunch Ira, I cannot afford to be hungry again. Everything sounds delicious. Thank you for a very concise report.
I am taking note of every hotel and restaurant you mention. I am ready for day 4 and on.
I am taking note of every hotel and restaurant you mention. I am ready for day 4 and on.
Oct 3rd, 2005, 07:26 AM
#65
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Day 4
We skipped breakfast and drove to the Libourne train station. There was a lovely rainbow all the way to Libourne. From here we took the commuter train to Bordeaux. Very nice, new train.
Upon arrival, we crossed the street to a café that was just opening and had a croissant and coffee for breakfast. This is when I realized that I had left m maps and guidebook in the car. Back to the train station to find a map. Map cost 2E. Tourist information office was clearly marked on the map. Walked around corner of the train station and got a free map and directions to the Croiseur Colbert where the Sunday Market is located.
The C tram takes you almost to The Colbert from the train station. To buy tickets at the machine turn the dial to the ticket you want, press “valider” ** 3 times **, put your money in the slot. The ticket comes out.
Although it was chilly and rather windy, we had a very good time at the market. Lots of food stalls, bands, clowns, families out with their kids, people enjoying the morning. We had an early lunch of oysters and a bottle of wine, then we had a later lunch of oysters and a bottle of wine.
Properly fortified, we walked back to the train station through “Old Bordeaux” by way of the Pl St. Michel and the “Antique’s Market”. We learned that the French make a distinction between “antiquities” (real antiques) and “brocante” (collectibles). This was a market of brocante and junque. The Eglise St. Michel was quite interesting, as was the walk through Old Bordeaux.
In the late afternoon, we returned to Chateau de Roques by a wandering tour through the vineyards. Dinner was the 25E menu + a bottle of Pomerol (34E).
12 escargot or Carpaccio of Tuna
Breast of Ostrich or Pink Trout
3 types of local cheese
Chocolate pie or Blueberry Clafouti
The ostrich and the desserts went very well with the Pomerol. Roberta had a glass of “entre deux mers” with her trout.
Walked around the property a bit, marveling at the stars (as thick as bedbugs).
And so to bed.
Day 5
We set off for the Mediterranean Coast via the D17 headed for the A62. All went well until Castillon, where the road was closed because of the Monday market. Fortunately, a local was leaving the market and headed in our direction. We followed her through twists and turns until we were back on the D17.
All went well until entering Sauveterre on the D670 we ran into another “road closed” sign. Checking the map for how to get to La Reole I found that all possible routes had “do not enter” signs. Following the only open road, we came to the cause of the problem – road construction and a friendly, helpful gentleman who told me to follow the “deviation” signs to La Reole.
After making two loops of the town, I took a chance on a road that seemed to go in the right direction. 10 km later we found a “deviation La Reole” sign pointing in the wrong direction.
This is where I learned that the compass always showed that I was headed SE if it was inside the car.
Following the deviation signs we found La Reole and, from there, the A62. We arrived at Narbonne Plage on a beautiful, sunny, hot Mediterranean afternoon. We had a late lunch at a pizza place (not good), walked the beach and headed for Carcassone and the Hotel Montmorency (http://www.lemontmorency.com/carcassonne/hotel.html) on the N113 – a scenic, well-marked road that brought us to the door of the hotel.
The Montmorency has its own parking – a major plus and is about a blk from the entrance to the Old City. They put us up in the Annex, across the street, in a little, bitty, teeny, weeny room on the 1st flooor (one flight up) that was just heavenly. We had no complaints because it was 32 C in Carcassone and the room had AC.
We waited until the sun went down before we went up to the Old City. Carcassone has been a tourist destination for a long, long time. This is not necessarily bad. The Pl Marcou is a large outdoor dining room. The trees are strategically lighted, each restaurant has its own tables, everything goes smoothly despite the crowds.
Somehow, I had gotten it into my head that we should eat at L’Arbre Vie, so I sat my Lady Wife down and went to look for it. After a full loop of the square, I returned to find that I had placed her at the entrance to L’Arbre Vie (the sign is perpendicular to the wall) and that she had made dinner reservations.
We wandered about and went for dinner.
LW had the 18E menu – Greek salad (large and flavorful), seafood risotto (large and flavorful) and dessert (also large and flavorful). I had the 25E Gourmand Menu – Appetizer of duck neck stuffed with foie gras, confit of duck gizzards, cured duck breast, all over a salad (very large and flavorful), blanquette de veau (large and flavorful) and dessert (too much). The food was accompanied by a bottle of white wine from Perpignan (24E) which was very fruity and aromatic.
After dinner we toured the town before returning to the hotel. Much nicer after all of the shops have closed. Some streets could be quite dark and very medieval. Overall, it was a pleasant visit
Please Note, Viollet-le-Duc was the architect of the “restoration” of Carcassone. The purist will note the incongruities.
Note on fuel prices: Diesal ranged from 1.04 – 1.39 E/L, Gasoline ranged from 1.19 to 1.59 E/L. I estimate the average to be about 1.18 for “gazol” and 1.40 for “essence”.
Day 6
After the usual breakfast of croissant, roll and coffee we set off for Albi via Revel, Graulhet, Castelnau-de-Montmiral and Cordes-sur-Ciel. Thanks to St. Cirq and Stu Dudley for recommendations along the route. This is a very nice and scenic route. Except for losing our way for a while at Graulhet, all went well.
We took a quick tour through Castelnau-de-Montmiral (a 13th century bastide town) and had lunch on the square (two salads and a bottle of Vaysette de Gaillac Rose’, very aromatic and fruity with a good mineral finish 13E) before heading to Cordes-sur-Ciel. Unfortunately, it was a bright clear day, but the approach to the town from below is quite a sight. Cordes is a very steep town (it seemed all streets went uphill).
After a short visit, we headed to Albi and the Hotel George V (http://www.hotelgeorgev.com/en/georgev.html). We were given a large room on the second floor (no elevator) with a view over the garden. The folks at the hotel were very pleasant and helpful, breakfast was in the garden. The only drawback would be that parking after 5:00 PM is at the lot of a Ministry building across the street. Before 5, you are on your own. Fortunately, we found a spot in front of the hotel when we arrived.
Dinner was at Le Jardin de Quatre Saisons in a very attractive and well appointed room – gold crepe de chine tablecloths and napkins. Roberta had the Seafood Salad (smoked salmon, salmon tartare, shrimp, crayfish, pickled herrings with various greens – 11E)and an Irish Coffee for dessert. I had the 25E menu - terrine of 2 kinds of salmon layered with spinach mousse; filet of Rouget (red mullet) with mushrooms, white truffles, scallops and shrimps in a cream sauce accompanied by a potato soufflé; tarte tatin for dessert. We had a bottle of 2001 Vigne de l’Oubli Domaine d’Escasses-Gaillac (20E) which had an aromatic and fruit-filled nose, flavors of spices, apples and citrus and a dry, mineral finish.
A very, very nice dinner at a very good price.
And so to bed.
TBC
Shopping note: the McD in Gaillac (we stopped for fuel) charges 3.4 E for a Big Mac, 1.5 E for frites and 1.9 for a coke.
We skipped breakfast and drove to the Libourne train station. There was a lovely rainbow all the way to Libourne. From here we took the commuter train to Bordeaux. Very nice, new train.
Upon arrival, we crossed the street to a café that was just opening and had a croissant and coffee for breakfast. This is when I realized that I had left m maps and guidebook in the car. Back to the train station to find a map. Map cost 2E. Tourist information office was clearly marked on the map. Walked around corner of the train station and got a free map and directions to the Croiseur Colbert where the Sunday Market is located.
The C tram takes you almost to The Colbert from the train station. To buy tickets at the machine turn the dial to the ticket you want, press “valider” ** 3 times **, put your money in the slot. The ticket comes out.
Although it was chilly and rather windy, we had a very good time at the market. Lots of food stalls, bands, clowns, families out with their kids, people enjoying the morning. We had an early lunch of oysters and a bottle of wine, then we had a later lunch of oysters and a bottle of wine.
Properly fortified, we walked back to the train station through “Old Bordeaux” by way of the Pl St. Michel and the “Antique’s Market”. We learned that the French make a distinction between “antiquities” (real antiques) and “brocante” (collectibles). This was a market of brocante and junque. The Eglise St. Michel was quite interesting, as was the walk through Old Bordeaux.
In the late afternoon, we returned to Chateau de Roques by a wandering tour through the vineyards. Dinner was the 25E menu + a bottle of Pomerol (34E).
12 escargot or Carpaccio of Tuna
Breast of Ostrich or Pink Trout
3 types of local cheese
Chocolate pie or Blueberry Clafouti
The ostrich and the desserts went very well with the Pomerol. Roberta had a glass of “entre deux mers” with her trout.
Walked around the property a bit, marveling at the stars (as thick as bedbugs).
And so to bed.
Day 5
We set off for the Mediterranean Coast via the D17 headed for the A62. All went well until Castillon, where the road was closed because of the Monday market. Fortunately, a local was leaving the market and headed in our direction. We followed her through twists and turns until we were back on the D17.
All went well until entering Sauveterre on the D670 we ran into another “road closed” sign. Checking the map for how to get to La Reole I found that all possible routes had “do not enter” signs. Following the only open road, we came to the cause of the problem – road construction and a friendly, helpful gentleman who told me to follow the “deviation” signs to La Reole.
After making two loops of the town, I took a chance on a road that seemed to go in the right direction. 10 km later we found a “deviation La Reole” sign pointing in the wrong direction.
This is where I learned that the compass always showed that I was headed SE if it was inside the car.
Following the deviation signs we found La Reole and, from there, the A62. We arrived at Narbonne Plage on a beautiful, sunny, hot Mediterranean afternoon. We had a late lunch at a pizza place (not good), walked the beach and headed for Carcassone and the Hotel Montmorency (http://www.lemontmorency.com/carcassonne/hotel.html) on the N113 – a scenic, well-marked road that brought us to the door of the hotel.
The Montmorency has its own parking – a major plus and is about a blk from the entrance to the Old City. They put us up in the Annex, across the street, in a little, bitty, teeny, weeny room on the 1st flooor (one flight up) that was just heavenly. We had no complaints because it was 32 C in Carcassone and the room had AC.
We waited until the sun went down before we went up to the Old City. Carcassone has been a tourist destination for a long, long time. This is not necessarily bad. The Pl Marcou is a large outdoor dining room. The trees are strategically lighted, each restaurant has its own tables, everything goes smoothly despite the crowds.
Somehow, I had gotten it into my head that we should eat at L’Arbre Vie, so I sat my Lady Wife down and went to look for it. After a full loop of the square, I returned to find that I had placed her at the entrance to L’Arbre Vie (the sign is perpendicular to the wall) and that she had made dinner reservations.
We wandered about and went for dinner.
LW had the 18E menu – Greek salad (large and flavorful), seafood risotto (large and flavorful) and dessert (also large and flavorful). I had the 25E Gourmand Menu – Appetizer of duck neck stuffed with foie gras, confit of duck gizzards, cured duck breast, all over a salad (very large and flavorful), blanquette de veau (large and flavorful) and dessert (too much). The food was accompanied by a bottle of white wine from Perpignan (24E) which was very fruity and aromatic.
After dinner we toured the town before returning to the hotel. Much nicer after all of the shops have closed. Some streets could be quite dark and very medieval. Overall, it was a pleasant visit
Please Note, Viollet-le-Duc was the architect of the “restoration” of Carcassone. The purist will note the incongruities.
Note on fuel prices: Diesal ranged from 1.04 – 1.39 E/L, Gasoline ranged from 1.19 to 1.59 E/L. I estimate the average to be about 1.18 for “gazol” and 1.40 for “essence”.
Day 6
After the usual breakfast of croissant, roll and coffee we set off for Albi via Revel, Graulhet, Castelnau-de-Montmiral and Cordes-sur-Ciel. Thanks to St. Cirq and Stu Dudley for recommendations along the route. This is a very nice and scenic route. Except for losing our way for a while at Graulhet, all went well.
We took a quick tour through Castelnau-de-Montmiral (a 13th century bastide town) and had lunch on the square (two salads and a bottle of Vaysette de Gaillac Rose’, very aromatic and fruity with a good mineral finish 13E) before heading to Cordes-sur-Ciel. Unfortunately, it was a bright clear day, but the approach to the town from below is quite a sight. Cordes is a very steep town (it seemed all streets went uphill).
After a short visit, we headed to Albi and the Hotel George V (http://www.hotelgeorgev.com/en/georgev.html). We were given a large room on the second floor (no elevator) with a view over the garden. The folks at the hotel were very pleasant and helpful, breakfast was in the garden. The only drawback would be that parking after 5:00 PM is at the lot of a Ministry building across the street. Before 5, you are on your own. Fortunately, we found a spot in front of the hotel when we arrived.
Dinner was at Le Jardin de Quatre Saisons in a very attractive and well appointed room – gold crepe de chine tablecloths and napkins. Roberta had the Seafood Salad (smoked salmon, salmon tartare, shrimp, crayfish, pickled herrings with various greens – 11E)and an Irish Coffee for dessert. I had the 25E menu - terrine of 2 kinds of salmon layered with spinach mousse; filet of Rouget (red mullet) with mushrooms, white truffles, scallops and shrimps in a cream sauce accompanied by a potato soufflé; tarte tatin for dessert. We had a bottle of 2001 Vigne de l’Oubli Domaine d’Escasses-Gaillac (20E) which had an aromatic and fruit-filled nose, flavors of spices, apples and citrus and a dry, mineral finish.
A very, very nice dinner at a very good price.
And so to bed.
TBC
Shopping note: the McD in Gaillac (we stopped for fuel) charges 3.4 E for a Big Mac, 1.5 E for frites and 1.9 for a coke.
Oct 3rd, 2005, 08:02 AM
#66
I'm following all this eagerly, and keeping count of those salads with duck three ways. I think I had duck every day during our week in France, and I now think of a day in France without three kinds of duck as a day without sunshine.
Yes, Cordes is a very steep town, and I was surprised to find at the top that it had room for a large market square and a grid of streets. Making it to the top in ninety-five degree weather was such a feeling of achievement that I sent a post card to my doctor. We only learned about the tourist tram when it was time to go back down.
Yes, Cordes is a very steep town, and I was surprised to find at the top that it had room for a large market square and a grid of streets. Making it to the top in ninety-five degree weather was such a feeling of achievement that I sent a post card to my doctor. We only learned about the tourist tram when it was time to go back down.
Oct 4th, 2005, 08:52 AM
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Day 7
After breakfast (coffee, croissant, baguette, butter, jellies) in the garden, we checked out of the George V and visited the cathedral and the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. Both are nice, but we wouldn't recommend Albi for a destination visit.
Leaving Albi, we headed off to St Chély du Tarn following the Tarn to Ambialet (a very pretty village with great views of the river valley from the XI century church), the Dordou to St Afrique and the D992 to Millau. Lovely scenery all the way.
We saw the great bridge at Millau (Roberta wouldn't go up there for all the tea in China), which isn't as bad as it could have been, stopped for lunch and fuel and headed through the city into the Tarn Gorges region. Absolutely spectacular.
The Gorges du Tarn are high and steep. If you like being up high and looking waaaay down, it is wonderful. Roberta was very good about this stretch, despite her vertigo.
The Peugeot performed very well here, as we could go up the mountains in 4th.
We arrived at the Auberge Cascade (http://www.aubergecascade.com/index.htm) in the late afternoon. First order of business was to find my Lady Wife a 1/2 bottle of wine and calm her down. We then checked in and took the luggage up to our room - 1st floor with a view over the town square and the river gorge. We slept with the windows open. The only sounds were the rushing of the brook at night and the calling of the cliff swallows in the morning.
St. Chély du Tarn is a little town, set in a bend of the Tarn at the foot of steep cliffs. Although it has been gussied up a bit to serve the tourists, it is quite charming. The old houses, the communal oven, the church and the churchyard have been restored. There is a bridge over the river from which one can see the stream that flows under the town empty into the river (the Cascades), and there are lights to illuminate the river and the cliffs.
The Auberge is a 2 chimney, Logis du France member. Dinner was the demi pensione. Amuse bouche of olives and tomatoes on toast, appetizer of foie gras for me and scallops for Roberta. I had the veal (tender and flavorful), she had the trout. Four local cheeses preceded the dessert - frozen pear soufflé. We had a pitcher of the house white wine. Very, very nice.
For anyone looking for a quiet, restful stay in a pleasant town nestled amidst glorious scenery, I can highly recommend St. Chély du Tarn.
Day 8
After the usual breakfast, we walked the town and headed off for Conques via Rodez. The route is very scenic (not as steep as on the way through the Gorges) and pleasant until you come down into the Valley of the Aveyron and the city of Rodez. A pall of smog covered the valley. Rodez was just plain dirty. We took a look at the Cathedral, took a pit stop on the square and headed for Conques, where we stayed at the Moulin de Camboulong (http://www.moulindecambelong.com/)
After checking in and depositing the luggage in our room – Romarin - (ground floor looking out on the Dordou river, patio) we ate the bread, wine and cheese that we had picked up in case of emergency at the Intermarche when we fueled up outside Millau on the patio overlooking the river. The scene is so romantically bucolic that it is not recommended for people with diabetes: ducks gliding in the mill race, geese swimming in the river, a horse grazing in the small pasture opposite, dappled shade occasionally revealing the spring that flows over jumbled rocks into the river.
After lunch, we forced ourselves away and went off to explore Conques. The Michelin Green Guide gives Conques 3*. It is a very pretty village, but very, very steep with vertiginous views into the Dordou Valley. I drove to the upper parking lot and we walked down. It was too much for Roberta. She couldn't walk back to the parking lot.
I left her behind the information booth at the lower parking lot (she couldn't see the valley) and, with map and directions in hand, ascended to the upper lot, retrieved the car and drove off, on what should have been a 10 min route, to collect my Lady Wife. Twenty minutes later, I was back at the upper parking lot.
Thinking that I had misread the map and misheard the directions, I tried again, choosing a different turn off. Twenty minutes later, I was back at the upper parking lot.
At this point, I figured that LW might be worrying about me and, disregarding all of the "do not enter" signs, slowly drove down through the town. I did not hit a single tourist, scrape the car against any buildings or burn out the clutch or brakes.
I retrieved my now calm Lady Wife, and we returned to the Moulin.
Side Note: While trying to find my way to the lower parking lot I drove on tiny, twisting back roads up and down amazingly beautiful gorges past little farms and tiny villages. I’m glad that I got lost.
While waiting for dinner, we whiled away the time on the patio with a bottle of 2002 Cuvee Flans Marcilllac, a light, pleasant wine redolent of cherries with a dry mineral finish, while the ducks glided, the geese swam, the horse came and went and the sun set behind the mountains.
Dinner, demi pensione, came from the 45E menu. Amuse bouche 1 of tasty things in pate choux; AB2 was cream of celery soup with mushrooms and white truffles and a dollop of crème fraiche. Entrees were a cocotte of escargot with wild mushrooms and truffle oil and a “galabre” – black pudding on toast topped with Roquefort cheese. Mains were Magret de Canard for Roberta and the Aveyron lamb for me, both with various vegetables and a light sauce. We each chose 3 cheeses from an assortment of 12 and finished with a dessert of chocolate biscuit with saffron-flavored vanilla ice cream and mint ice cream with a tuile cookie for LW. The ice cream is made inhouse.
Dinner was accompanied by a Rosé Marcillac, fruity and light, that went with everything.
Coffees and liqueurs, from a very large assortment (for example: pear eau de vie from 2000, 1995, 1985, 1975), on the terrace finished a very lovely evening.
And so to Bed.
TBC
After breakfast (coffee, croissant, baguette, butter, jellies) in the garden, we checked out of the George V and visited the cathedral and the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum. Both are nice, but we wouldn't recommend Albi for a destination visit.
Leaving Albi, we headed off to St Chély du Tarn following the Tarn to Ambialet (a very pretty village with great views of the river valley from the XI century church), the Dordou to St Afrique and the D992 to Millau. Lovely scenery all the way.
We saw the great bridge at Millau (Roberta wouldn't go up there for all the tea in China), which isn't as bad as it could have been, stopped for lunch and fuel and headed through the city into the Tarn Gorges region. Absolutely spectacular.
The Gorges du Tarn are high and steep. If you like being up high and looking waaaay down, it is wonderful. Roberta was very good about this stretch, despite her vertigo.
The Peugeot performed very well here, as we could go up the mountains in 4th.
We arrived at the Auberge Cascade (http://www.aubergecascade.com/index.htm) in the late afternoon. First order of business was to find my Lady Wife a 1/2 bottle of wine and calm her down. We then checked in and took the luggage up to our room - 1st floor with a view over the town square and the river gorge. We slept with the windows open. The only sounds were the rushing of the brook at night and the calling of the cliff swallows in the morning.
St. Chély du Tarn is a little town, set in a bend of the Tarn at the foot of steep cliffs. Although it has been gussied up a bit to serve the tourists, it is quite charming. The old houses, the communal oven, the church and the churchyard have been restored. There is a bridge over the river from which one can see the stream that flows under the town empty into the river (the Cascades), and there are lights to illuminate the river and the cliffs.
The Auberge is a 2 chimney, Logis du France member. Dinner was the demi pensione. Amuse bouche of olives and tomatoes on toast, appetizer of foie gras for me and scallops for Roberta. I had the veal (tender and flavorful), she had the trout. Four local cheeses preceded the dessert - frozen pear soufflé. We had a pitcher of the house white wine. Very, very nice.
For anyone looking for a quiet, restful stay in a pleasant town nestled amidst glorious scenery, I can highly recommend St. Chély du Tarn.
Day 8
After the usual breakfast, we walked the town and headed off for Conques via Rodez. The route is very scenic (not as steep as on the way through the Gorges) and pleasant until you come down into the Valley of the Aveyron and the city of Rodez. A pall of smog covered the valley. Rodez was just plain dirty. We took a look at the Cathedral, took a pit stop on the square and headed for Conques, where we stayed at the Moulin de Camboulong (http://www.moulindecambelong.com/)
After checking in and depositing the luggage in our room – Romarin - (ground floor looking out on the Dordou river, patio) we ate the bread, wine and cheese that we had picked up in case of emergency at the Intermarche when we fueled up outside Millau on the patio overlooking the river. The scene is so romantically bucolic that it is not recommended for people with diabetes: ducks gliding in the mill race, geese swimming in the river, a horse grazing in the small pasture opposite, dappled shade occasionally revealing the spring that flows over jumbled rocks into the river.
After lunch, we forced ourselves away and went off to explore Conques. The Michelin Green Guide gives Conques 3*. It is a very pretty village, but very, very steep with vertiginous views into the Dordou Valley. I drove to the upper parking lot and we walked down. It was too much for Roberta. She couldn't walk back to the parking lot.
I left her behind the information booth at the lower parking lot (she couldn't see the valley) and, with map and directions in hand, ascended to the upper lot, retrieved the car and drove off, on what should have been a 10 min route, to collect my Lady Wife. Twenty minutes later, I was back at the upper parking lot.
Thinking that I had misread the map and misheard the directions, I tried again, choosing a different turn off. Twenty minutes later, I was back at the upper parking lot.
At this point, I figured that LW might be worrying about me and, disregarding all of the "do not enter" signs, slowly drove down through the town. I did not hit a single tourist, scrape the car against any buildings or burn out the clutch or brakes.
I retrieved my now calm Lady Wife, and we returned to the Moulin.
Side Note: While trying to find my way to the lower parking lot I drove on tiny, twisting back roads up and down amazingly beautiful gorges past little farms and tiny villages. I’m glad that I got lost.
While waiting for dinner, we whiled away the time on the patio with a bottle of 2002 Cuvee Flans Marcilllac, a light, pleasant wine redolent of cherries with a dry mineral finish, while the ducks glided, the geese swam, the horse came and went and the sun set behind the mountains.
Dinner, demi pensione, came from the 45E menu. Amuse bouche 1 of tasty things in pate choux; AB2 was cream of celery soup with mushrooms and white truffles and a dollop of crème fraiche. Entrees were a cocotte of escargot with wild mushrooms and truffle oil and a “galabre” – black pudding on toast topped with Roquefort cheese. Mains were Magret de Canard for Roberta and the Aveyron lamb for me, both with various vegetables and a light sauce. We each chose 3 cheeses from an assortment of 12 and finished with a dessert of chocolate biscuit with saffron-flavored vanilla ice cream and mint ice cream with a tuile cookie for LW. The ice cream is made inhouse.
Dinner was accompanied by a Rosé Marcillac, fruity and light, that went with everything.
Coffees and liqueurs, from a very large assortment (for example: pear eau de vie from 2000, 1995, 1985, 1975), on the terrace finished a very lovely evening.
And so to Bed.
TBC
Oct 5th, 2005, 05:22 AM
#71
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Ira: I admire your courage in not only ordering, but actually eating andouillettes. It's the only thing I've ever had in France that I will never try again. Now duck gizzards are another thing--delicious.
Excellent travel report. I await the next episode.
Excellent travel report. I await the next episode.
Oct 5th, 2005, 10:01 AM
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Day 9
Breakfast in the dining room: Large bowls for the Café au Lait (took us a few minutes to determine if they were for cereal or coffee), breads, pastries, croissants, artisinal yoghurt and butter (really good), grapes and jellies from the property.
A really lovely place to stay: first class food and service in a beautiful environment at a surprisingly low price - 284E for the room, dinner (with wines and liqueurs) and breakfast.
Dragging ourselves away, we headed for Figeac (2* in the Green Guide).
Another beautiful drive. In the city we parked in the square at St Sauvere (Free parking from 12:00 - 2:00 PM) and followed the Green Guide walking tour. We rested up with a 1/2 pitcher of Gaillac vin blanc (a hint of fizz and nice minerals - very refreshing) before taking the D662 out of town into the valley of the Célé river.
Arriving at Cabrerets, we found the Grotto Peche Merle (3* in the Green Guide) and got our first look at ancient cave art. The cave is worth a visit by itself - lots of interesting formations. Peche Merle is one of the few caves that you can still visit to see the original art work. The guided tour was very informative, although my Lady wife felt that the French lost something being translated by me.
After our tour, we drove to St. Cirq-Lapopie for a short stay before heading to Cahors, where we found a spot in the parking lot and checked in at the Hotel Terminus. The hotel (a Belle Epoque building with décor that leans toward Art Deco) is located across the street from the train station in, surprisingly, an upscale, residential neighborhood. We were given a room on the top floor (there is an elevator) overlooking the courtyard.
Dinner was at the hotel's restaurant, Balandre (a Michelin 1*), which is divided into two moderate-sized rooms. This is very important, because one room had a table of 10 French persons celebrating something and the other had a table of 8 British persons celebrating something. If there hadn't been a sturdy wall dividing them the noise would have been unbearable.
I don't know what it is about Europeans, but once they get a glass or two of wine into them they become loud and giggly. Fortunately, as the evening progressed, both sets of partiers quieted down - exhaustion, I guess.
The Degustation wasn't available. The waiter explained that it had to be served to the whole table. Since my Lady Wife wasn't about to partake of such an extravaganza, I had to settle for the 76E Menu (after briefly considering asking her if she would mind dining at her own table).
Our wines were a Gaillac "Passion" for the lighter offerings and a 1998 Chateau Bouysses Cahors (100% Malbec) for the heavier courses and the chocolates.
Amuse bouche 1: Stuffed cherry tomatoes, cheese puffs, and baked, mashed potato thingies. AB2: A very thick crème fraîche with slivers of vegetables.
Entrée: Foie gras prepared two ways with different sauces and the house chutney.
Main courses: Tuna with a mint sauce and a ginger confit accompanied by various vegetables for Roberta and very large prawns served with a potato puff and salad for me.
Intermezzo of a "Capucino" - whipped cream over a pale chocolate froth flavored with cinnamon over a dark chocolate sponge flavored with hot peppers - not too spicy, not too sweet. Very interesting.
Cheese course of 4 kinds of cheeses: Roquefort, Cabecou, Pyrenees, Brie.
Dessert: Tarte Tatin for LW and an assortment of fruits in a brandy syrup for me.
Coffee was accompanied by tuile cookies, little rum babas, a small walnut tart and chocolates.
Service was impeccable.
Overall, worth every penny.
Day 10
A quick tour of Cahors, including the Pont Valentre (19th cent reconstruction by guess who), the gate of a Roman bath from the 1st Century, and the Cathedral and off to Beynac by way of the Lot Valley.
A very lovely and scenic drive. We got lost for a short while in Touzac, trying to find the road I had selected to get us to Chateau Bonaguil, but found a sign pointing to the chateau and followed the recommended route. On the way, we found a pleasant, small town (Couvert?) with a beautiful, simple and elegant XI century church and a very small chapel from about the same time with a very old cemetery.
Upon arrival at Ch. Bonaguil at 11:58, we discovered that it is closed from 12:00 - 2:00. Having saved 15E, we continued our journey through chasms and gorges (none so steep that Roberta became ill) to the D710 (looks larger on the map than it is) and the towns of Beynac-et-Cazenac. After parking in the hotel's lot, we lugged our luggage up to the 1st floor reception desk, and one more floor to our room.
It was a small (not as small as at the Montmorency), but adequate, room on the corner of the building with views of the river from both windows. Just perfect.
We spent the rest of the evening sitting on the terrace overlooking the river, sipping wine (or beer) and watching the sunlight fade.
The demi pensione here is a bargain. Dinner (appetizer+plat+dessert) is about ½ the regular price. However, you have to take what is offered and what was offered was confit de canard. My LW, not being in the mood for confit de canard, we ordered from the menu.
Aperitif of a ½ bttle of Ch. De Tiregand Pecharmant (AOC); very local and very good, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and ? tasting of cherries, walnuts and a hint of butter. This went well with the Magret.
We also had a bottle of Ch Le Fage’ Bergerac Blanc (AOC) – 100% Sauvignon Blanc; very fruity and very dry with a good mineral finish.
Roberta had the avocado and shrimp salad, and I had the Menu: Magret of duck, confit de canard with pommes Salardaise, Cabecou on toast, strawberries with walnut cake.
All very nicely done.
And so to bed
TBC
Breakfast in the dining room: Large bowls for the Café au Lait (took us a few minutes to determine if they were for cereal or coffee), breads, pastries, croissants, artisinal yoghurt and butter (really good), grapes and jellies from the property.
A really lovely place to stay: first class food and service in a beautiful environment at a surprisingly low price - 284E for the room, dinner (with wines and liqueurs) and breakfast.
Dragging ourselves away, we headed for Figeac (2* in the Green Guide).
Another beautiful drive. In the city we parked in the square at St Sauvere (Free parking from 12:00 - 2:00 PM) and followed the Green Guide walking tour. We rested up with a 1/2 pitcher of Gaillac vin blanc (a hint of fizz and nice minerals - very refreshing) before taking the D662 out of town into the valley of the Célé river.
Arriving at Cabrerets, we found the Grotto Peche Merle (3* in the Green Guide) and got our first look at ancient cave art. The cave is worth a visit by itself - lots of interesting formations. Peche Merle is one of the few caves that you can still visit to see the original art work. The guided tour was very informative, although my Lady wife felt that the French lost something being translated by me.
After our tour, we drove to St. Cirq-Lapopie for a short stay before heading to Cahors, where we found a spot in the parking lot and checked in at the Hotel Terminus. The hotel (a Belle Epoque building with décor that leans toward Art Deco) is located across the street from the train station in, surprisingly, an upscale, residential neighborhood. We were given a room on the top floor (there is an elevator) overlooking the courtyard.
Dinner was at the hotel's restaurant, Balandre (a Michelin 1*), which is divided into two moderate-sized rooms. This is very important, because one room had a table of 10 French persons celebrating something and the other had a table of 8 British persons celebrating something. If there hadn't been a sturdy wall dividing them the noise would have been unbearable.
I don't know what it is about Europeans, but once they get a glass or two of wine into them they become loud and giggly. Fortunately, as the evening progressed, both sets of partiers quieted down - exhaustion, I guess.
The Degustation wasn't available. The waiter explained that it had to be served to the whole table. Since my Lady Wife wasn't about to partake of such an extravaganza, I had to settle for the 76E Menu (after briefly considering asking her if she would mind dining at her own table).
Our wines were a Gaillac "Passion" for the lighter offerings and a 1998 Chateau Bouysses Cahors (100% Malbec) for the heavier courses and the chocolates.
Amuse bouche 1: Stuffed cherry tomatoes, cheese puffs, and baked, mashed potato thingies. AB2: A very thick crème fraîche with slivers of vegetables.
Entrée: Foie gras prepared two ways with different sauces and the house chutney.
Main courses: Tuna with a mint sauce and a ginger confit accompanied by various vegetables for Roberta and very large prawns served with a potato puff and salad for me.
Intermezzo of a "Capucino" - whipped cream over a pale chocolate froth flavored with cinnamon over a dark chocolate sponge flavored with hot peppers - not too spicy, not too sweet. Very interesting.
Cheese course of 4 kinds of cheeses: Roquefort, Cabecou, Pyrenees, Brie.
Dessert: Tarte Tatin for LW and an assortment of fruits in a brandy syrup for me.
Coffee was accompanied by tuile cookies, little rum babas, a small walnut tart and chocolates.
Service was impeccable.
Overall, worth every penny.
Day 10
A quick tour of Cahors, including the Pont Valentre (19th cent reconstruction by guess who), the gate of a Roman bath from the 1st Century, and the Cathedral and off to Beynac by way of the Lot Valley.
A very lovely and scenic drive. We got lost for a short while in Touzac, trying to find the road I had selected to get us to Chateau Bonaguil, but found a sign pointing to the chateau and followed the recommended route. On the way, we found a pleasant, small town (Couvert?) with a beautiful, simple and elegant XI century church and a very small chapel from about the same time with a very old cemetery.
Upon arrival at Ch. Bonaguil at 11:58, we discovered that it is closed from 12:00 - 2:00. Having saved 15E, we continued our journey through chasms and gorges (none so steep that Roberta became ill) to the D710 (looks larger on the map than it is) and the towns of Beynac-et-Cazenac. After parking in the hotel's lot, we lugged our luggage up to the 1st floor reception desk, and one more floor to our room.
It was a small (not as small as at the Montmorency), but adequate, room on the corner of the building with views of the river from both windows. Just perfect.
We spent the rest of the evening sitting on the terrace overlooking the river, sipping wine (or beer) and watching the sunlight fade.
The demi pensione here is a bargain. Dinner (appetizer+plat+dessert) is about ½ the regular price. However, you have to take what is offered and what was offered was confit de canard. My LW, not being in the mood for confit de canard, we ordered from the menu.
Aperitif of a ½ bttle of Ch. De Tiregand Pecharmant (AOC); very local and very good, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and ? tasting of cherries, walnuts and a hint of butter. This went well with the Magret.
We also had a bottle of Ch Le Fage’ Bergerac Blanc (AOC) – 100% Sauvignon Blanc; very fruity and very dry with a good mineral finish.
Roberta had the avocado and shrimp salad, and I had the Menu: Magret of duck, confit de canard with pommes Salardaise, Cabecou on toast, strawberries with walnut cake.
All very nicely done.
And so to bed
TBC
Oct 5th, 2005, 04:54 PM
#79
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Ira, I would like restaurant recommendations. Medium high to low prices, I am in a bit of a budget bind but I can still afford to splurge at least one time (or two). It will be my first time in Paris....you are welcome to illuminate me with that lightbulb of yours 
If you want you can post in any of my two Paris threads.
If you want you can post in any of my two Paris threads.
