heathergray

me and my boyfriend are going to Lisbon/ Madeira for Christmas/ New Years. i really want some tips as to what places (hotels/ sights/ towns/ restaurants) people loved. we are tourists who don't like touristy things! we like local cuisine, wine, people, etc. please let me know about "that place" that we definitely should not miss. and, while we're at it, "that place" that we SHOULD miss.

Amy

In Lisbon itself I loved Jeronimos Monastery the most. I stayed in Sintra, however, and do recommend that you at least go there, perhaps for an overnight. The Castle of the Moors and Pena Palace there are lovely, and I also enjoyed the Capuchin Convent and Montserrat, as well as the cliffs of Cabo da Roca.
Get some Serra cheese and fresh bread for a picnic one day.
In Madeira, be sure to ride on the wicker chair down the mountain from Monte; even though that's been a "touristy" thing to do for a hundred years, it's the most fun means of transport I've ever experienced!
Have a great time...Portugal is really lovely.

ThinGorjus

You should "hang out" at Cafe Braaileira in Chiado. You meet a lot of fascinating people here.

Coach Museum near Jeronimos is a must, as is the Gulbenkian Museum. The Gulbenkian is one of the greatest museums I have ever visited. (It is worth the price of admission just to see its collection of Sevres silver. And the paintings of Venice by Gaurdi are better than anything by Canaletto.)

Lisboans like to party, so go out late. Wear something skimpy!

Toninha

Restaurants:

Lisboa: "O Cantinho do Bem Estar" (Bairro Alto, Lisboa) cheaper and very good; "Bica do Sapato" (Avenue Infante Dom Henrique, Armazem B, Lisboa) not cheaper but very good.

Madeira: don't miss the restaurant called "Santo António" in Estreito de Câmara de Lobos.

heathergray

this is all great - thanks so much everyone. yeah, i didn't mean that seeing the sights is too touristy, etc - was just trying to give a feel for what we were looking for - cafes, restaurants, beautiful hidden spots etc. keep the suggestions coming if you can.
how about the weather at this time (dec)??

lobo_mau

December = cold and/or rain

heathergray

how about actual Christmas day - can anyone give me some insight...does the city restaurants, etc. shut down?

elina

While in Madeira you just have to walk at least one of the levadas. I recommend Levada do Furado from Ribeiro Frio to Portela (get the map from tourist info). Levada is a small watering channel, so following it you cannot get lost. Takes about four hours, and you will get stunningly beautiful views. It is easy to go to Ribeiro Frio with local bus, and eqally easy to sit in a roadside restaurant in Portela and wait for another bus.

And if you are in shape there is a stunning, stunnig mountain walk over three highest peaks. They say that it takes four hours, but I huffed and puffed almost six - and it was worth every second.

My favourite restaurant in Funchal is Dom Pepe, a little outside center, in a local residence area. Table reservation recommended, it is popular with locals. The restaurants outside hotel zone are cheaper (of course), even in the old town.

A popular fish and crab restaurant (very, very casual) is at the shore, down from Madeira Palacio hotel. Again, a little outside center.