Impression: France - Le Lot et La Dordogne
Aug 23rd, 2011, 08:23 PM
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<I>[Before I begin the next phase of the report, I must offer my apologies to the Winnicks as I had compared our schedules the other day and said that we had also gone to the St. Cyprien market on June 26th. It was on my original itinerary, but I had forgotten that we bagged it at the last minute. The market I was remembering when I saw the Winnicks' picture of paella was the one we visited in Le Bugue a couple of days later. Dang it! This is why I need to journalize events while they're still fresh. My old memory bank doesn't handle new deposits so well anymore.]<I>
Aug 23rd, 2011, 08:32 PM
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DORDOGNE DAY 2 - THE WHEAT FROM THE CHAFF
Sunday 6/26/11
I woke up feeling a little rough around the edges. Three weeks on the road were beginning to take their toll on all of us and, if we kept pushing it, one of us was bound to get sick. We needed to start slowly, ease into the day and focus on getting the feel for our new surroundings. The goal was to strive for simple authenticity. As you can imagine, there were no complaints from the crew.
Looking at my planned itinerary, I could see this meant applying Ockham's razor to both the schedule and my travel philosophy. More colloquially, one can think of it as, "Keep it simple, stupid." We shaved off the morning market in St. Cyprien, Cadouin Abbey and the Chateau des Milandes. (We did see Milandes a few days later.) This meant we could relax in our new little vacation home, get a late start and keep the driving to an absolute minimum for a change.
We decided to instead focus on the essence of this region, the heart of the matter, and stick to Dordogne activities that were basic, classic and very close. We selected Chateau Beynac and Gabarres de Beynac as they were both on our doorstep, along with dinner in nearby Sarlat because we had reservations. Our first full day experiencing this region would thus be characterized by a castle, the river scene, a medieval village and cuisine. It was the Perigord Noir in a walnut shell (minus a cave).
There were other unforeseen benefits to Plan B. Economizing our energy became more than a good idea. It was a necessity. A heat wave had just hit the Dordogne. The rising temps were enough to sap the life out of you as the day progressed. Thankfully, our little house with its thick stone walls was always cool. It was a sanctuary those first few days.
By 10:00 a.m., we were climbing the steep, winding cobblestone street next to our house on the way to the chateau. It was already surprisingly warm. I could imagine how difficult it would have been for attackers in heavy armor to climb this limestone hill, which of course was the point. On the other side, it is a sheer drop of 492 feet.
Beynac ultimately had 28 barons from the time it was built in 1115 until 1929. I think it was mainly a formal title from the 18th century as the castle itself was largely abandoned until it was sold in 1962 to a man named Lucien Grosso. Can you imagine having the wherewithal to purchase that kind of real estate? Monsieur Grosso has been painstakingly restoring the chateau, a job he has estimated will take a century. It's been an historical monument since 1944.
It was 7.50€ each for the rustic, imposing chateau, which hopefully goes toward the restoration work. We were lucky to encounter only one other visitor, plus a French tour group that we succeeded in avoiding. It was nice to be able to wander around on our own, which I usually prefer over a guided tour.
We first entered from the barbican to the rectangular 13th century Guard Room where large metal oil lamps hang from the ceiling and a long trestle table has slots on one side to store swords - a medieval version of an umbrella stand. The door is high and wide to allow for horses, which were kept in a room on the other side of the stairs.
Richard the Lionheart, Eleanor's favorite and most capable son, was a Baron of Beynac from his 1189 inheritance until his death 10 years later. I could imagine Richard here in the original castle, writing and singing his poetry of langue d'oc, encouraged by his mother, whose own father had been a primary founder of the troubadour tradition after the First Crusade.
The brave and golden man-lion has been glorified by history, but Richard wasn't exactly Mr. Nice Guy. He stirred the pot quite a bit here in the Dordogne by pushing aside several noble families in favor of his loyal followers. This occasionally involved significant bloodshed and he came down particularly hard on a family from Gourdon named Fortanier. Unfortunately, he was foolish enough to kill all but one son and this was his fateful undoing, or so the story goes:
In May of 1199, Richard was in the process of besieging the castle of Chalus near Limoges as part of his campaign to quell a revolt led by the local Viscount Aimer V. Only two men were apparently available to defend Chalus, one of them no more than a boy. They were forced to improvise their armor and weapons, at one point even using a frying pan as a shield. Richard was more amused than concerned and let his guard down. The boy shot an arrow into his neck and later, when brought before Richard, claimed that the king had killed his father and brother. Though the boy's name is historically disputed, the age-old rumor has it that he was the surviving son of the Gourdon nobles, who had been whisked away to Chalus and raised there after his family's execution.
Richard purportedly pardoned the boy for his valor, but died of gangrene from the wound within weeks. Beynac Castle was then seized by Richard's lieutenant, a mercenary named Mercadier, whose first act was to avenge Richard's death by attacking Chalus and having the boy who shot the arrow flayed alive. He then proceeded to terrorize and pillage the entire Perigord until he was assassinated the following April on his way to visit Eleanor - one year and four days after his buddy Richard had died. (Apparently, Mercadier didn't have Don Henley around to tell him it was all about forgiveness.)
In 1214, Simon de Montfort destroyed Beynac, calling it "Satan's Ark" because the baron at that time was a friend of Raymond of Toulouse and thus associated with the Cathars. It was rebuilt again within the century and that is the structure we see today.
The 17th century spiral staircase at Beynac has been beautifully restored. It took years to soak the oak in a solution that would age the wood enough to match the original stairs and the carpenter then used medieval tools and techniques to ensure authenticity.
The most beautiful room is probably the Hall of State. The fireplace is carved. The ceilings are painted. This is where the four barons of Perigord would meet (Beynac, Bourdeilles, Biron and Mareuil). The small chapel next door is now blocked from entry, but one can peek through to see the frescoes.
Chateau de Beynac's 14th century kitchen is also interesting. It has two large fireplaces and hooks hang from the ceiling (for pots or meat?). Barrels, cooking vessels and other period props are strategically placed to boost one's imagination.
Truthfully, though, the best part of Beynac is the view. Exiting the dark interior onto the watch-path and peering over the battlements to see the Dordogne Valley stretching far below is breath-taking. The view includes the castles of Castelnaud and Fayrac on the other side of the river.
Within a couple of centuries after Richard the Lionheart's death, his rebuilt Beynac castle was controlled by the French and, in one of those ironic twists of fate, found itself in a great face-off with Castelnaud, controlled by the descendants of his brother's Plantagenet family. (Richard had always considered himself French and he didn't even speak English. He only visited England twice: to be crowned and to collect money for his Crusades.) Essentially, that long conflict must have felt like an emotional civil war for many whose ancestry encompassed the dual heritage.
The Dordogne is often described as one of the main battlegrounds of the Hundred Years' War and it purportedly still has 1,001 chateaux. It would be interesting to verify this, but who's going to count? Major listed confrontations of that war near this part of the Dordogne were the Battles of Bergerac and the Battle of Auberoche (near Periguex), both in 1345 and both about 40 miles away from Beynac; and the momentous final Battle of Castillon in 1453, which was some 60 miles west. Chateau Castelnaud evidently suffered repeated sieges, so there must have been quite a bit of posturing and skirmishing among the local lords, too, particularly between Beynac and Castelnaud, which we visited the next day.
I would have liked to explore our village of Beynac-et-Cazenac further following the chateau visit, but it was just too dang hot. We shuffled the short way down the hill to our little house, feeling sorry for the tourists we passed who were climbing up under the midday sun. After a long lunch break of cheese, olives and tomato sandwiches, the stone walls of La Petite Maison had cooled us off enough to think about heading down to the shore for a boat ride with Gabarres de Beynac. I think it was about 7.50€ apiece. We embarked with a large group of French senior citizens, who pretty much filled up the rest of the boat. The ride lasts about 50 minutes and first goes upstream, passing Chateau de Fayrac, Castelnaud and Marqueyssac before turning around and coming back downstream to Beynac. It was probably no more than five or six miles roundtrip. The girl doing the commentary was nice enough to frequently repeat herself in English for our benefit and she also gave us a little English brochure. (There is another outfit called Gabares Norbert -- yes, a different spelling -- that goes the opposite way, starting in La Roque Gageac, going downstream on a different stretch of the river, then turning back up the river. I think the Beynac tour includes better castles.)
Traveling on the river at a slower pace is the ideal way to see the Dordogne. It offers the best perspective of the castles perched on the steep cliffs and the villages clustered around them. Around every turn in the river, the view changes, hiding one thing and revealing another. It would be nice to take this ride early or late in the day when the light is soft and reflective. That particular afternoon, we were baking in the heat, despite the covered awning. Since it was a weekend, locals and tourists alike were out in force on the river, boating, swimming and doing what they could to keep cool. While I am usually cat-like in my distaste for water, I had a strong urge to jump in and join them. I noticed that all the elderly folks on our boat seemed to be wishing the same thing as we motored past the splashing revelers, drinking beer and wine and laying on their backs in the shade with their feet dangling in the river.
The gabarres date back hundreds of years. They were basically tiny barges, steered with a long pole and sometimes utilizing a small mast and sail. They were built once a year when the river was high and used in the transport of goods down to Bordeaux. When they reached the port about six days later, they would break up the boat and sell it for firewood. Each year, some 300 boats were built, steered and broken this way. More recently, they were featured in the 2000 movie "Chocolat" with Johnny Depp and the incredible Judi Dench. The lower portion of the village of Beynac was also depicted in the film.
The remainder of the hot and lazy Sunday afternoon was spent relaxing on the apartment couch, napping, checking e-mail and reading until it was time to head up the road to Sarlat-la-Caneda. It was probably the only time we gave ourselves such a long, much-needed break during the entire month.
It was only about seven or eight miles to Sarlat, but it was difficult to find parking in this popular place. By the time we'd secured a spot, we were cutting it too close to see the old town before dinner, so we had to postpone our stroll for later in the evening.
It was still warm on the terrace of Le Bistro de l'Octroi, but it cooled down about halfway through dinner, especially after they electronically rolled up the awning and an evening breeze began to waft around the tables. The patrons let out a collective sigh and everyone was happy and festive, except for two dogs that got into a fight. It's the first time I'd even seen a French dog make noise. You would think they were merely motorized toys if you didn't see their droppings all over the sidewalks.
This meal was incredible, at least as good as La Belle Etoile the night before, but more creative. I had wanted to eat at the recommended Le Presidial, but they were closed on Sundays. I am sure l'Octroi was a worthy substitute. We all ordered La Grande Assiette Perigourdine (the big Perigordian plate). The waitress addressed me first and I started to pick items from the set formule. She stopped me and laughed, "No. You don't choose with this one. You get everything!" Whoa. What a deal. That's when the boys decided they wanted the same thing. There were 10 small items brought together, arranged like tiny, delectable packages on one plate. The only thing we didn't like was the strong cabecou cheese (and it's a rare thing when I meet a cheese I don't like -- perhaps it's just an acquired taste).
After dinner, we did a slightly truncated version of the walk I had planned. Originally a Gallo-Roman settlement, Sarlat developed further around the 8th century Benedictine abbey and is now known for its well-preserved medieval/Renaissance center. Its market charter dates back to 1298. The townsfolk saw true merchant-class prosperity when they were rewarded by King Charles VII following their resistance of the English during the Hundred Years War. The majority of beautiful townhouses of golden limestone you see today were built in the late 15th century. The entire town is a prime example of the increasing power of the bourgeois class. It reportedly has more medieval buildings than any other town in France and 45 movies have been filmed here. In fact, Sarlat is a participant in a national restoration project and more than 65 of its buildings are protected.
It was dark and all the shops were shuttered by the time we were able to explore, but the restaurants were thriving, there was plenty of happy evening activity in the streets and we were able to admire the famous Place du Marche aux Trois Oies (Goose Square) with its renowned trio of foie gras models, as well as the mysterious Lanterne des Morts and the Cathedrale where a small ensemble was practicing. Perhaps it was even better to see it at that hour when the air was fresher, the tourists had retreated and the old houses glowed from within. Somehow, the alleys felt more secret, the atmosphere was more romantic and the clever bronze statue of "a common man" was bathed in shadows as he surveyed life from his seat on the stone ledge. Like that statue of the relaxed bystander watching the market square in perpetual contemplation, we were casual observers, wanting nothing more than to absorb the essence of the scene. In a quintessential village in the center of the Dordogne in the heart of the Perigord. It was an appropriate way to the end the day. Simple Sunday had been a complete success.
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Sunday 6/26/11
I woke up feeling a little rough around the edges. Three weeks on the road were beginning to take their toll on all of us and, if we kept pushing it, one of us was bound to get sick. We needed to start slowly, ease into the day and focus on getting the feel for our new surroundings. The goal was to strive for simple authenticity. As you can imagine, there were no complaints from the crew.
Looking at my planned itinerary, I could see this meant applying Ockham's razor to both the schedule and my travel philosophy. More colloquially, one can think of it as, "Keep it simple, stupid." We shaved off the morning market in St. Cyprien, Cadouin Abbey and the Chateau des Milandes. (We did see Milandes a few days later.) This meant we could relax in our new little vacation home, get a late start and keep the driving to an absolute minimum for a change.
We decided to instead focus on the essence of this region, the heart of the matter, and stick to Dordogne activities that were basic, classic and very close. We selected Chateau Beynac and Gabarres de Beynac as they were both on our doorstep, along with dinner in nearby Sarlat because we had reservations. Our first full day experiencing this region would thus be characterized by a castle, the river scene, a medieval village and cuisine. It was the Perigord Noir in a walnut shell (minus a cave).
There were other unforeseen benefits to Plan B. Economizing our energy became more than a good idea. It was a necessity. A heat wave had just hit the Dordogne. The rising temps were enough to sap the life out of you as the day progressed. Thankfully, our little house with its thick stone walls was always cool. It was a sanctuary those first few days.
By 10:00 a.m., we were climbing the steep, winding cobblestone street next to our house on the way to the chateau. It was already surprisingly warm. I could imagine how difficult it would have been for attackers in heavy armor to climb this limestone hill, which of course was the point. On the other side, it is a sheer drop of 492 feet.
Beynac ultimately had 28 barons from the time it was built in 1115 until 1929. I think it was mainly a formal title from the 18th century as the castle itself was largely abandoned until it was sold in 1962 to a man named Lucien Grosso. Can you imagine having the wherewithal to purchase that kind of real estate? Monsieur Grosso has been painstakingly restoring the chateau, a job he has estimated will take a century. It's been an historical monument since 1944.
It was 7.50€ each for the rustic, imposing chateau, which hopefully goes toward the restoration work. We were lucky to encounter only one other visitor, plus a French tour group that we succeeded in avoiding. It was nice to be able to wander around on our own, which I usually prefer over a guided tour.
We first entered from the barbican to the rectangular 13th century Guard Room where large metal oil lamps hang from the ceiling and a long trestle table has slots on one side to store swords - a medieval version of an umbrella stand. The door is high and wide to allow for horses, which were kept in a room on the other side of the stairs.
Richard the Lionheart, Eleanor's favorite and most capable son, was a Baron of Beynac from his 1189 inheritance until his death 10 years later. I could imagine Richard here in the original castle, writing and singing his poetry of langue d'oc, encouraged by his mother, whose own father had been a primary founder of the troubadour tradition after the First Crusade.
The brave and golden man-lion has been glorified by history, but Richard wasn't exactly Mr. Nice Guy. He stirred the pot quite a bit here in the Dordogne by pushing aside several noble families in favor of his loyal followers. This occasionally involved significant bloodshed and he came down particularly hard on a family from Gourdon named Fortanier. Unfortunately, he was foolish enough to kill all but one son and this was his fateful undoing, or so the story goes:
In May of 1199, Richard was in the process of besieging the castle of Chalus near Limoges as part of his campaign to quell a revolt led by the local Viscount Aimer V. Only two men were apparently available to defend Chalus, one of them no more than a boy. They were forced to improvise their armor and weapons, at one point even using a frying pan as a shield. Richard was more amused than concerned and let his guard down. The boy shot an arrow into his neck and later, when brought before Richard, claimed that the king had killed his father and brother. Though the boy's name is historically disputed, the age-old rumor has it that he was the surviving son of the Gourdon nobles, who had been whisked away to Chalus and raised there after his family's execution.
Richard purportedly pardoned the boy for his valor, but died of gangrene from the wound within weeks. Beynac Castle was then seized by Richard's lieutenant, a mercenary named Mercadier, whose first act was to avenge Richard's death by attacking Chalus and having the boy who shot the arrow flayed alive. He then proceeded to terrorize and pillage the entire Perigord until he was assassinated the following April on his way to visit Eleanor - one year and four days after his buddy Richard had died. (Apparently, Mercadier didn't have Don Henley around to tell him it was all about forgiveness.)
In 1214, Simon de Montfort destroyed Beynac, calling it "Satan's Ark" because the baron at that time was a friend of Raymond of Toulouse and thus associated with the Cathars. It was rebuilt again within the century and that is the structure we see today.
The 17th century spiral staircase at Beynac has been beautifully restored. It took years to soak the oak in a solution that would age the wood enough to match the original stairs and the carpenter then used medieval tools and techniques to ensure authenticity.
The most beautiful room is probably the Hall of State. The fireplace is carved. The ceilings are painted. This is where the four barons of Perigord would meet (Beynac, Bourdeilles, Biron and Mareuil). The small chapel next door is now blocked from entry, but one can peek through to see the frescoes.
Chateau de Beynac's 14th century kitchen is also interesting. It has two large fireplaces and hooks hang from the ceiling (for pots or meat?). Barrels, cooking vessels and other period props are strategically placed to boost one's imagination.
Truthfully, though, the best part of Beynac is the view. Exiting the dark interior onto the watch-path and peering over the battlements to see the Dordogne Valley stretching far below is breath-taking. The view includes the castles of Castelnaud and Fayrac on the other side of the river.
Within a couple of centuries after Richard the Lionheart's death, his rebuilt Beynac castle was controlled by the French and, in one of those ironic twists of fate, found itself in a great face-off with Castelnaud, controlled by the descendants of his brother's Plantagenet family. (Richard had always considered himself French and he didn't even speak English. He only visited England twice: to be crowned and to collect money for his Crusades.) Essentially, that long conflict must have felt like an emotional civil war for many whose ancestry encompassed the dual heritage.
The Dordogne is often described as one of the main battlegrounds of the Hundred Years' War and it purportedly still has 1,001 chateaux. It would be interesting to verify this, but who's going to count? Major listed confrontations of that war near this part of the Dordogne were the Battles of Bergerac and the Battle of Auberoche (near Periguex), both in 1345 and both about 40 miles away from Beynac; and the momentous final Battle of Castillon in 1453, which was some 60 miles west. Chateau Castelnaud evidently suffered repeated sieges, so there must have been quite a bit of posturing and skirmishing among the local lords, too, particularly between Beynac and Castelnaud, which we visited the next day.
I would have liked to explore our village of Beynac-et-Cazenac further following the chateau visit, but it was just too dang hot. We shuffled the short way down the hill to our little house, feeling sorry for the tourists we passed who were climbing up under the midday sun. After a long lunch break of cheese, olives and tomato sandwiches, the stone walls of La Petite Maison had cooled us off enough to think about heading down to the shore for a boat ride with Gabarres de Beynac. I think it was about 7.50€ apiece. We embarked with a large group of French senior citizens, who pretty much filled up the rest of the boat. The ride lasts about 50 minutes and first goes upstream, passing Chateau de Fayrac, Castelnaud and Marqueyssac before turning around and coming back downstream to Beynac. It was probably no more than five or six miles roundtrip. The girl doing the commentary was nice enough to frequently repeat herself in English for our benefit and she also gave us a little English brochure. (There is another outfit called Gabares Norbert -- yes, a different spelling -- that goes the opposite way, starting in La Roque Gageac, going downstream on a different stretch of the river, then turning back up the river. I think the Beynac tour includes better castles.)
Traveling on the river at a slower pace is the ideal way to see the Dordogne. It offers the best perspective of the castles perched on the steep cliffs and the villages clustered around them. Around every turn in the river, the view changes, hiding one thing and revealing another. It would be nice to take this ride early or late in the day when the light is soft and reflective. That particular afternoon, we were baking in the heat, despite the covered awning. Since it was a weekend, locals and tourists alike were out in force on the river, boating, swimming and doing what they could to keep cool. While I am usually cat-like in my distaste for water, I had a strong urge to jump in and join them. I noticed that all the elderly folks on our boat seemed to be wishing the same thing as we motored past the splashing revelers, drinking beer and wine and laying on their backs in the shade with their feet dangling in the river.
The gabarres date back hundreds of years. They were basically tiny barges, steered with a long pole and sometimes utilizing a small mast and sail. They were built once a year when the river was high and used in the transport of goods down to Bordeaux. When they reached the port about six days later, they would break up the boat and sell it for firewood. Each year, some 300 boats were built, steered and broken this way. More recently, they were featured in the 2000 movie "Chocolat" with Johnny Depp and the incredible Judi Dench. The lower portion of the village of Beynac was also depicted in the film.
The remainder of the hot and lazy Sunday afternoon was spent relaxing on the apartment couch, napping, checking e-mail and reading until it was time to head up the road to Sarlat-la-Caneda. It was probably the only time we gave ourselves such a long, much-needed break during the entire month.
It was only about seven or eight miles to Sarlat, but it was difficult to find parking in this popular place. By the time we'd secured a spot, we were cutting it too close to see the old town before dinner, so we had to postpone our stroll for later in the evening.
It was still warm on the terrace of Le Bistro de l'Octroi, but it cooled down about halfway through dinner, especially after they electronically rolled up the awning and an evening breeze began to waft around the tables. The patrons let out a collective sigh and everyone was happy and festive, except for two dogs that got into a fight. It's the first time I'd even seen a French dog make noise. You would think they were merely motorized toys if you didn't see their droppings all over the sidewalks.
This meal was incredible, at least as good as La Belle Etoile the night before, but more creative. I had wanted to eat at the recommended Le Presidial, but they were closed on Sundays. I am sure l'Octroi was a worthy substitute. We all ordered La Grande Assiette Perigourdine (the big Perigordian plate). The waitress addressed me first and I started to pick items from the set formule. She stopped me and laughed, "No. You don't choose with this one. You get everything!" Whoa. What a deal. That's when the boys decided they wanted the same thing. There were 10 small items brought together, arranged like tiny, delectable packages on one plate. The only thing we didn't like was the strong cabecou cheese (and it's a rare thing when I meet a cheese I don't like -- perhaps it's just an acquired taste).
After dinner, we did a slightly truncated version of the walk I had planned. Originally a Gallo-Roman settlement, Sarlat developed further around the 8th century Benedictine abbey and is now known for its well-preserved medieval/Renaissance center. Its market charter dates back to 1298. The townsfolk saw true merchant-class prosperity when they were rewarded by King Charles VII following their resistance of the English during the Hundred Years War. The majority of beautiful townhouses of golden limestone you see today were built in the late 15th century. The entire town is a prime example of the increasing power of the bourgeois class. It reportedly has more medieval buildings than any other town in France and 45 movies have been filmed here. In fact, Sarlat is a participant in a national restoration project and more than 65 of its buildings are protected.
It was dark and all the shops were shuttered by the time we were able to explore, but the restaurants were thriving, there was plenty of happy evening activity in the streets and we were able to admire the famous Place du Marche aux Trois Oies (Goose Square) with its renowned trio of foie gras models, as well as the mysterious Lanterne des Morts and the Cathedrale where a small ensemble was practicing. Perhaps it was even better to see it at that hour when the air was fresher, the tourists had retreated and the old houses glowed from within. Somehow, the alleys felt more secret, the atmosphere was more romantic and the clever bronze statue of "a common man" was bathed in shadows as he surveyed life from his seat on the stone ledge. Like that statue of the relaxed bystander watching the market square in perpetual contemplation, we were casual observers, wanting nothing more than to absorb the essence of the scene. In a quintessential village in the center of the Dordogne in the heart of the Perigord. It was an appropriate way to the end the day. Simple Sunday had been a complete success.
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Aug 24th, 2011, 02:02 AM
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I've only just started to read your report and I laughed out loud when I read your reference to Brigadoon. My husband and I stayed in Albas in the Lot and while trying to find it we referred to it as Brigadoon and still do to this day, he'll laugh when I tell him about this report!
Ok, now back to reading......
Ok, now back to reading......
Aug 26th, 2011, 07:36 AM
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DORDOGNE DAY 3 - MERCURY RISING
Monday 6/27/11
It was hotter than Hades all day. In retrospect, it was the warmest day of the trip and, fickle humans that we are, we began longing for the rain we had in Paris. Instead of cooling down overnight, I think the 27th of June just began stacking on top of the previous day's temps. Having slept within the cool stone walls of our little house, we were unaware of this until we walked out into an oven at 9:30 a.m. I whine about this as a sort of preamble to establish the fact that it clearly affected our activities and attitude from the start.
Fortunately, Chateau de Castelnaud was another cool haven for a couple of hours. I'm not sure what these musty, dusty old castles are like in the winter, but they sure don't need air conditioning during the warmer months. We found Beynac's arch-nemesis across the river to be different, but equally delightful. Unlike the barren bones of other abandoned castles such as Bonaguil, the chateaux of Beynac and Castelnaud are at least partially decked in period decor with enough furnishings and accoutrements to add medieval character. Beynac features lanterns, tapestries and suits of armor, but at Castelnaud it's all about weapons and warfare. Needless to say, this was a big hit with Joe.
Castelnaud is akin to a museum with its displays, looping videos and interactive exhibits. While this allows for a more interesting, educational visit, it also detracts somewhat from the authenticity of the castle itself. Fortunately, it doesn't quite bend backwards into tacky Madame Tussaud territory. This castle occupies a lovely position at the conflux of the Dordogne and Cèou valleys, with the village of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle curled like a calico cat around its feet. While it is an excellent example of how fortress architecture evolved in response to developments in warfare, its personal history has been largely lost to time.
The chateau's original construction date is unknown, but the first records reveal that it was one of Simon de Montfort's victims during the Albigensian crusade. He apparently led some massive army to raze Castelnaud and the surrounding fortresses to the ground. It had been rebuilt by the Hundred Years' War 200 years later and evidently changed hands five times before the English Plantagenets won the last round. As you can imagine, it was a little worse for wear by the time the war ended in 1453 and repairs lasted another century. Today, the keep and curtain wall are all that remain from the first 13th century reconstruction. The 15th and 16th century remodeling added features to the fortifications, such as an artillery tower, which were meant to counteract the improvements in siege warfare. There are computerized models at the chateau that show the various stages of construction over the generations. Since 1969, historical architects have been carefully restoring it to the way it looked at the time it was abandoned before the Revolution.
We bought the 13.40€ combo tickets for Castelnaud and Marqueyssac (6.70€ for Joe). Fortunately, the tour was unguided and we were able to wander through the rooms at our leisure. For someone who has a specific interest in this period of history, it is a fascinating place to explore. There are exhibits about how the weapons, armor and helmets developed throughout the Middle Ages. Outside, there are several types and sizes of siege engines.
A couple of the rooms had a cute video game which required a player to rescue an imprisoned knight by choosing various weapons, castle routes and actions. Being the ripe old age of 13 ¾, Joe joked about how simple and cheesy it was, but he still had as much fun with it as any five-year-old. Within a few minutes, he was happily able to redeem his winning for a Castelnaud poster at the ticket booth. You never know what a teenager will find amusing. For days afterwards, he thought it was hilarious to randomly shout, "I saved Francois!" so he could watch me roll my eyes. At least he'll remember Castelnaud.
By the time we left the chateau, it was the middle of the day and the unrelenting sun had reached its zenith. If I had been using my brain, I would have switched our plans. Instead, we blithely drove across the river to Les Jardins de Marquyessac because, after all, it was the logical progression on paper.
Our immediate goal was the outdoor tea room for a tall, cold drink, but it was full to the brim. After staring longingly at its covered awning for a few moments and noting the line of people waiting for an opening, we decided to tour the grounds first instead.
I am sure the swathes of geometric green topiary at this 54-acre park are lovely under normal circumstances, but we spent most of our time seeking shade. Our fondest memory is probably of the pergola tunnel covered in vines. The site has been developed since 1682, influenced by the gardens at Versailles. There are 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods, along with follies, rock gardens and exceptional views. I made efforts to interest Phil and Joe in the belvedere and garden rooms on our map, but it was like trying to discuss philosophy with a man whose stomach is growling. Basic bodily comforts trump everything. Thinking it would be a cool spot to rest, we were determined to find the waterfall, but discovered that the cascades had been reduced to a sad little stream. It was the middle of summer, of course, and the Dordogne had been suffering from a drought for months. Joe stared at the water trickling down the rock. "Geez, I'm thirsty," he sighed. The poor guy was right. There were still areas of the park we had missed, but I knew it was time to head back and stop forcing the march.
By the time we made it back to the salon de thé, the cafe crowd had also been reduced to a trickle, but there was still only one table open. I saw a young lady approaching and picked up my pace, grabbing it in the nick of time. After all, it was a dog-eat-dog afternoon. Phil and Joe managed to secure seats directly under timed electronic misters. It became a joke as I would lean toward one or the other every time the fine spray began, but it would stop as soon as I felt the first drops. I could swear my face was melting into my lap like the Wicked Witch of the West. I imagined the boys looking over to see that nothing was left but my hat on the chair.
The cafe's terrace is at the edge of a limestone cliff with wonderful views directly over to Beynac and Castlenaud. After a light and tasty lunch, we all eagerly ordered glacé and sorbet. I had scoops of lavender and violet, unique and refreshing enough to lift my spirits.
Turning up the air conditioning full blast back in the car, we hurried back to the cool apartment in Beynac and stayed in our sanctuary for the rest of the afternoon. I think I could have spent a lot more time strolling around Marqueyssac under more pleasant, breezy skies. Weaving through the parterre patterns is like being a bug crawling on a giant green damask bedspread.
We had 8:00 p.m. reservations at Cabanois et Chataignes in Domme, about seven miles and 15 minutes away. The restaurant at the Hotel l'Esplanade there is more famous, but Phil balked at their prices as a month in France was already causing our bank account to melt faster than the afternoon ice cream. The view and atmosphere may not have been quite as primo at C&C, but the food was very good. I don't think we ever had a bad meal in the Dordogne. Plating, presentation, service, creativity, quality and downright deliciousness invariably hit the high notes.
Domme is a creative and unusual version of a 13th century bastide. Nicknamed the "Acropolis of the Perigord", it is perched on a nearly-vertical cliff half a mile high with 180-degree views. Because of this, it doesn't follow the usual rectangular bastide plan, but has its own unique geometric pattern. The original fortress was -- you guessed it -- razed by Simon de Montfort. The fortified town that exists today was barely finished before the Hundred Years War began. In order to build it at all, Philip the Bold had to promise the protesting peasants that he would give them a tax break and let them print their own money if they would please, please agree to haul the big rocks up the slope. The building that housed the mint can still be seen. Unfortunately, compared to the Florentine gold florin of the time, Domme's leather siege coins were a bit like the American dollar devalued against the Swiss franc.
Apparently, Domme presented an immediate challenge to the English as it changed hands through twice as many sieges than neighboring Castelnaud. Even when the English won, the townspeople stayed stubbornly loyal to the French. There is a cave within the town where the villagers would hide during the sieges (and later during the Wars of Religion). One enters the cave through the town's covered market hall. Over one-quarter mile of galleries are open to the public, but they were closed for the day by the time we arrived. The formations are supposed to be the best feature; plus bison and rhinoceros bones have been left in the exact places they were found.
We parked at the Place de la Rode. While researching Domme many months ago, I read a story about a secret door in the town wall called the "Door of Paradise." The legend is that it was opened by English sympathizers during the Hundred Years War who let the invading soldiers in. The traitors were subsequently captured and broken on the wheel in this square. ("Rode" meaning "wheel" in langue d'oc.)
Next, we walked down the rue de la Porte-des-Tours to see the most impressive of the town's 13th century gates. The large towers on either side were used as guard rooms. At one point, they served as a prison for the Knights Templar, who carved crosses and other graffiti into the walls like they did at the castle in Najac.
We made note of where our restaurant was and then finished walking up through the attractive town toward the belvedere. There is a promenade stretching along the cliff with magnificent views of the Dordogne valley below. We didn't spend nearly as much time here as I had planned as the early evening was still too warm to invite wandering. This would be an ideal place to watch the sun rise or set, but we were still a good two hours away from dusk. We decided to save the full town walk and promenade for another day, another time. Instead, we headed back to Cabanois et Chataignes where we all chose from the 28€ menu of entree/plat/dessert.
I'm not sure what the guys had, but I recall that I ordered grilled foie gras (which I decided was my least favorite method of cooking the stuff), an excellent duck with raspberries and some sort of sorbet. The most fabulous and memorable course that night, though, had to be Phil's foie gras, which had been marinated and poached in Armagnac. Oh-my-gawd, I could have downed a whole plate of it. He must have regretted letting me sample a bite since he had to eat quickly before I stole the rest.
It was getting dark by the time we left the restaurant. We briefly considered walking up to the belvedere again for an evening view, but decided we were too stuffed with duck and foie gras and waddled back to the car instead. A full tour of Domme could wait. We had agreed by then that the beautiful Dordogne deserves multiple visits. I'm already planning the next angle of attack.
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Monday 6/27/11
It was hotter than Hades all day. In retrospect, it was the warmest day of the trip and, fickle humans that we are, we began longing for the rain we had in Paris. Instead of cooling down overnight, I think the 27th of June just began stacking on top of the previous day's temps. Having slept within the cool stone walls of our little house, we were unaware of this until we walked out into an oven at 9:30 a.m. I whine about this as a sort of preamble to establish the fact that it clearly affected our activities and attitude from the start.
Fortunately, Chateau de Castelnaud was another cool haven for a couple of hours. I'm not sure what these musty, dusty old castles are like in the winter, but they sure don't need air conditioning during the warmer months. We found Beynac's arch-nemesis across the river to be different, but equally delightful. Unlike the barren bones of other abandoned castles such as Bonaguil, the chateaux of Beynac and Castelnaud are at least partially decked in period decor with enough furnishings and accoutrements to add medieval character. Beynac features lanterns, tapestries and suits of armor, but at Castelnaud it's all about weapons and warfare. Needless to say, this was a big hit with Joe.
Castelnaud is akin to a museum with its displays, looping videos and interactive exhibits. While this allows for a more interesting, educational visit, it also detracts somewhat from the authenticity of the castle itself. Fortunately, it doesn't quite bend backwards into tacky Madame Tussaud territory. This castle occupies a lovely position at the conflux of the Dordogne and Cèou valleys, with the village of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle curled like a calico cat around its feet. While it is an excellent example of how fortress architecture evolved in response to developments in warfare, its personal history has been largely lost to time.
The chateau's original construction date is unknown, but the first records reveal that it was one of Simon de Montfort's victims during the Albigensian crusade. He apparently led some massive army to raze Castelnaud and the surrounding fortresses to the ground. It had been rebuilt by the Hundred Years' War 200 years later and evidently changed hands five times before the English Plantagenets won the last round. As you can imagine, it was a little worse for wear by the time the war ended in 1453 and repairs lasted another century. Today, the keep and curtain wall are all that remain from the first 13th century reconstruction. The 15th and 16th century remodeling added features to the fortifications, such as an artillery tower, which were meant to counteract the improvements in siege warfare. There are computerized models at the chateau that show the various stages of construction over the generations. Since 1969, historical architects have been carefully restoring it to the way it looked at the time it was abandoned before the Revolution.
We bought the 13.40€ combo tickets for Castelnaud and Marqueyssac (6.70€ for Joe). Fortunately, the tour was unguided and we were able to wander through the rooms at our leisure. For someone who has a specific interest in this period of history, it is a fascinating place to explore. There are exhibits about how the weapons, armor and helmets developed throughout the Middle Ages. Outside, there are several types and sizes of siege engines.
A couple of the rooms had a cute video game which required a player to rescue an imprisoned knight by choosing various weapons, castle routes and actions. Being the ripe old age of 13 ¾, Joe joked about how simple and cheesy it was, but he still had as much fun with it as any five-year-old. Within a few minutes, he was happily able to redeem his winning for a Castelnaud poster at the ticket booth. You never know what a teenager will find amusing. For days afterwards, he thought it was hilarious to randomly shout, "I saved Francois!" so he could watch me roll my eyes. At least he'll remember Castelnaud.
By the time we left the chateau, it was the middle of the day and the unrelenting sun had reached its zenith. If I had been using my brain, I would have switched our plans. Instead, we blithely drove across the river to Les Jardins de Marquyessac because, after all, it was the logical progression on paper.
Our immediate goal was the outdoor tea room for a tall, cold drink, but it was full to the brim. After staring longingly at its covered awning for a few moments and noting the line of people waiting for an opening, we decided to tour the grounds first instead.
I am sure the swathes of geometric green topiary at this 54-acre park are lovely under normal circumstances, but we spent most of our time seeking shade. Our fondest memory is probably of the pergola tunnel covered in vines. The site has been developed since 1682, influenced by the gardens at Versailles. There are 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods, along with follies, rock gardens and exceptional views. I made efforts to interest Phil and Joe in the belvedere and garden rooms on our map, but it was like trying to discuss philosophy with a man whose stomach is growling. Basic bodily comforts trump everything. Thinking it would be a cool spot to rest, we were determined to find the waterfall, but discovered that the cascades had been reduced to a sad little stream. It was the middle of summer, of course, and the Dordogne had been suffering from a drought for months. Joe stared at the water trickling down the rock. "Geez, I'm thirsty," he sighed. The poor guy was right. There were still areas of the park we had missed, but I knew it was time to head back and stop forcing the march.
By the time we made it back to the salon de thé, the cafe crowd had also been reduced to a trickle, but there was still only one table open. I saw a young lady approaching and picked up my pace, grabbing it in the nick of time. After all, it was a dog-eat-dog afternoon. Phil and Joe managed to secure seats directly under timed electronic misters. It became a joke as I would lean toward one or the other every time the fine spray began, but it would stop as soon as I felt the first drops. I could swear my face was melting into my lap like the Wicked Witch of the West. I imagined the boys looking over to see that nothing was left but my hat on the chair.
The cafe's terrace is at the edge of a limestone cliff with wonderful views directly over to Beynac and Castlenaud. After a light and tasty lunch, we all eagerly ordered glacé and sorbet. I had scoops of lavender and violet, unique and refreshing enough to lift my spirits.
Turning up the air conditioning full blast back in the car, we hurried back to the cool apartment in Beynac and stayed in our sanctuary for the rest of the afternoon. I think I could have spent a lot more time strolling around Marqueyssac under more pleasant, breezy skies. Weaving through the parterre patterns is like being a bug crawling on a giant green damask bedspread.
We had 8:00 p.m. reservations at Cabanois et Chataignes in Domme, about seven miles and 15 minutes away. The restaurant at the Hotel l'Esplanade there is more famous, but Phil balked at their prices as a month in France was already causing our bank account to melt faster than the afternoon ice cream. The view and atmosphere may not have been quite as primo at C&C, but the food was very good. I don't think we ever had a bad meal in the Dordogne. Plating, presentation, service, creativity, quality and downright deliciousness invariably hit the high notes.
Domme is a creative and unusual version of a 13th century bastide. Nicknamed the "Acropolis of the Perigord", it is perched on a nearly-vertical cliff half a mile high with 180-degree views. Because of this, it doesn't follow the usual rectangular bastide plan, but has its own unique geometric pattern. The original fortress was -- you guessed it -- razed by Simon de Montfort. The fortified town that exists today was barely finished before the Hundred Years War began. In order to build it at all, Philip the Bold had to promise the protesting peasants that he would give them a tax break and let them print their own money if they would please, please agree to haul the big rocks up the slope. The building that housed the mint can still be seen. Unfortunately, compared to the Florentine gold florin of the time, Domme's leather siege coins were a bit like the American dollar devalued against the Swiss franc.
Apparently, Domme presented an immediate challenge to the English as it changed hands through twice as many sieges than neighboring Castelnaud. Even when the English won, the townspeople stayed stubbornly loyal to the French. There is a cave within the town where the villagers would hide during the sieges (and later during the Wars of Religion). One enters the cave through the town's covered market hall. Over one-quarter mile of galleries are open to the public, but they were closed for the day by the time we arrived. The formations are supposed to be the best feature; plus bison and rhinoceros bones have been left in the exact places they were found.
We parked at the Place de la Rode. While researching Domme many months ago, I read a story about a secret door in the town wall called the "Door of Paradise." The legend is that it was opened by English sympathizers during the Hundred Years War who let the invading soldiers in. The traitors were subsequently captured and broken on the wheel in this square. ("Rode" meaning "wheel" in langue d'oc.)
Next, we walked down the rue de la Porte-des-Tours to see the most impressive of the town's 13th century gates. The large towers on either side were used as guard rooms. At one point, they served as a prison for the Knights Templar, who carved crosses and other graffiti into the walls like they did at the castle in Najac.
We made note of where our restaurant was and then finished walking up through the attractive town toward the belvedere. There is a promenade stretching along the cliff with magnificent views of the Dordogne valley below. We didn't spend nearly as much time here as I had planned as the early evening was still too warm to invite wandering. This would be an ideal place to watch the sun rise or set, but we were still a good two hours away from dusk. We decided to save the full town walk and promenade for another day, another time. Instead, we headed back to Cabanois et Chataignes where we all chose from the 28€ menu of entree/plat/dessert.
I'm not sure what the guys had, but I recall that I ordered grilled foie gras (which I decided was my least favorite method of cooking the stuff), an excellent duck with raspberries and some sort of sorbet. The most fabulous and memorable course that night, though, had to be Phil's foie gras, which had been marinated and poached in Armagnac. Oh-my-gawd, I could have downed a whole plate of it. He must have regretted letting me sample a bite since he had to eat quickly before I stole the rest.
It was getting dark by the time we left the restaurant. We briefly considered walking up to the belvedere again for an evening view, but decided we were too stuffed with duck and foie gras and waddled back to the car instead. A full tour of Domme could wait. We had agreed by then that the beautiful Dordogne deserves multiple visits. I'm already planning the next angle of attack.
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Aug 26th, 2011, 08:22 AM
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<i>Castelnaud it's all about weapons and warfare.</i>
The kitchen exhibit is gone?
I think that Marqueyssac is a little younger than you claim:
(found on the web)
It was Julien de Cerval who dedicated the last 30 years of his life to create a haven of peace in Marqueyssac by transforming the estate he inherited in <b>1861</b> into a beautiful residence and a utopian garden. The former jurist from Sarlat was a passionate gardener and a great expert of Italian-style gardens and agronomy, which he marvellously recreated in Marqueyssac, with its terraces and ornamental trees such as cypress, elm, Judas, umbrella and lime. Julien de Cerval designed this garden for his own personal enjoyment, to write poems in it amongst this romantic site dominated by a soft, fresh green and the delicate perfume of box-trees, santolina, rosemary and lavender.
The kitchen exhibit is gone?
I think that Marqueyssac is a little younger than you claim:
(found on the web)
It was Julien de Cerval who dedicated the last 30 years of his life to create a haven of peace in Marqueyssac by transforming the estate he inherited in <b>1861</b> into a beautiful residence and a utopian garden. The former jurist from Sarlat was a passionate gardener and a great expert of Italian-style gardens and agronomy, which he marvellously recreated in Marqueyssac, with its terraces and ornamental trees such as cypress, elm, Judas, umbrella and lime. Julien de Cerval designed this garden for his own personal enjoyment, to write poems in it amongst this romantic site dominated by a soft, fresh green and the delicate perfume of box-trees, santolina, rosemary and lavender.
Aug 26th, 2011, 08:48 AM
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I don't recall a kitchen exhibit at Castelnaud, though there certainly may have been one. I do remember the kitchen at Beynac.
Perhaps you're right about Marqueyssac, Michael, but my info about the date was directly from Fodor's itself: "The park was founded in 1682, and its design, including a parterre of cut topiaries, was greatly influenced by the designs of André le Nôtre, the ‘green geometer’ of Versailles.” http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/f...ew-465750.html
Perhaps you're right about Marqueyssac, Michael, but my info about the date was directly from Fodor's itself: "The park was founded in 1682, and its design, including a parterre of cut topiaries, was greatly influenced by the designs of André le Nôtre, the ‘green geometer’ of Versailles.” http://www.fodors.com/world/europe/f...ew-465750.html
Aug 26th, 2011, 08:59 AM
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<i>I do remember the kitchen at Beynac. </i>
which was not on the tour a few years ago.
I think that Fodor's is wrong about the date, and given the generally strict geometry of Le Notre designs, I do not see his influence.
which was not on the tour a few years ago.
I think that Fodor's is wrong about the date, and given the generally strict geometry of Le Notre designs, I do not see his influence.
Aug 26th, 2011, 09:22 AM
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Fodor's is not wrong per se, but it does seem misleading. The original gardens date to the construction of the chateau in the 17th century. They were designed by a pupil of Le Notre. You are then correct that Julien de Cerval renovated and expanded the gardens, planting all the boxwood and bringing in the Italian features we see today.
Aug 26th, 2011, 02:24 PM
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You ate well in the Dordogne because you picked (arguably) the best places to eat!
You lost me though when you said you didn't like the cabecou. That cheese warmed on toast with honey is possibly the most divine dessert to have been invented, and among my fondest night market memories. I'm salivating right now.
Loving your trip report by the way.
You lost me though when you said you didn't like the cabecou. That cheese warmed on toast with honey is possibly the most divine dessert to have been invented, and among my fondest night market memories. I'm salivating right now.
Loving your trip report by the way.
Aug 26th, 2011, 02:59 PM
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Good grief. I must go find some cabecou. I'm starting to think I've been remembering the wrong cheese! Either that, or it IS an acquired taste. That's okay, either way. I'm game to try it again -- perhaps I should include the honey & toast just to be sure.
Aug 26th, 2011, 08:39 PM
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sap
If you ever travel a bit north, here is where I purchase foie gras & magrets de Canard (duck breast).
http://www.thegourmetcorner.com/b2bi...rner/index.htm
Stu Dudley
If you ever travel a bit north, here is where I purchase foie gras & magrets de Canard (duck breast).
http://www.thegourmetcorner.com/b2bi...rner/index.htm
Stu Dudley
Aug 26th, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Ooh, ooh. Thank you, Stu! We have been trying to determine where the heck to find good duck around here. I believe I will combine that visit to the Gourmet Corner with our trip up to K&L Wine Merchants in Redwood City for Rhones, which we have promised ourselves will be the reward when we finish the trip report & pics.
Cue in Carly Simon: A-a-anticipa-a-a-tion. . .
Cue in Carly Simon: A-a-anticipa-a-a-tion. . .
Aug 27th, 2011, 07:54 AM
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The magrets are in the freezer (upright grocery store-style freezer - there are many freezers at Gourmet Corner) at the far end of the left wall in the back room. About knee/thigh height. There were lots of them there 2 weeks ago. They also have confit de canard in another section of the store - but IMO, these are overpriced.
Make sure you get mi-cuit or raw foie gras - not the "junk" in cans. I think the mi-cuit/raw foie gras is in the refrigerated section in the "main" entry room with the wine. Draegers also has mi-cuit foie gras - but expensive.
When I was still working for a living, I worked in Redwood City - so I frequented K&L often. Good selection. Also try Weimax on Broadway in Burlingame. Gerald has a good selection of Rhone wines. He focuses on "value", but he has the expensive stuff too. Good case discount if you pay by check or cash - not credit or debit card.
Stu Dudley
Make sure you get mi-cuit or raw foie gras - not the "junk" in cans. I think the mi-cuit/raw foie gras is in the refrigerated section in the "main" entry room with the wine. Draegers also has mi-cuit foie gras - but expensive.
When I was still working for a living, I worked in Redwood City - so I frequented K&L often. Good selection. Also try Weimax on Broadway in Burlingame. Gerald has a good selection of Rhone wines. He focuses on "value", but he has the expensive stuff too. Good case discount if you pay by check or cash - not credit or debit card.
Stu Dudley
Aug 27th, 2011, 08:19 AM
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There isn't a kitchen at Castelnaud as far as I know. The kitchen exhibit at Beynac has been there for at least 15 years, maybe 20.
Cabécou isn't exported to the US - not allowed as it's not pasteurized. There is one deli I know of in VA that carries it, but how they get it in, I don't know and they won't tell.
It's the best cheese in the world.
Cabécou isn't exported to the US - not allowed as it's not pasteurized. There is one deli I know of in VA that carries it, but how they get it in, I don't know and they won't tell.
It's the best cheese in the world.
