Capt_Canuck

Hi everyone..thanks for all your help yesterday...Assuming my car rental booking works out, here's the itinerary I am thinking about for two weeks in Provence in July:

First Night: Drive to Auxerre from Paris/CDG (see yesterday's post for why I am driving)
Then..drive to Aix the next day:
3-4 nights in Aix (day trip to Cassis)
3-4 nights in Bonnieux (visit Menerbes, Rousillon,...)
4-5 nights in St. Remy (Arles, Nimes, Les Baux...)
Final night in Avignon as that's where I will drop off the car and the next morning TGV it to CDG.

How does that sound? And most importantly, does the order make sense?
Thanks all...as usual, your help yesterday was so beneficial..and fun to read!
cheers,
CC

Wayne

The order is fine. Actually, since all of the places you want to go are relatively close, the order wouldn't matter very much except for the beginning and end.

You have obviously made your choices of the area and the number of nights to stay, based on what you want to see and do. I assume, from the number of days you have identified in each location, that you will spend almost all your time exploring nearby spots. Aix, Bonnieux, and St. Remy, in my opinion, are not worth more than a day each, so there's lots of exploration time left in your plan. Those parts of Provence are lovely, especially other smaller villages you haven't named, and I'm sure you will have a good time. Good luck.

travelbunny

..sounds great! The trip back to cdg by tgv seems like a very sensible decision...but as I stated before, I am paranoid. Have a good trip.

StCirq

Looks excellent to me, Capt! As Wayne says, you've got plenty of room for daytrips, and I'd recommend you use one of them to travel out into the Camargue to Aigues Mortes - beautiful place. Oh, and see if you can fit in a dinner at Les Tellines, also in the Carmargue - one of the most memorable meals of my life, not only for the fire-roasted fresh fish and eel and crème de potiron but also because of the owner's dog, Idée, who takes your napkin out of your lap at the end of the meal and deposits it in a laundry basket in the kitchen.

JoeG

No matter what your order - it will work out fine. We contemplated staying in two or three spots and in the end based in one. This worked out really well for us. More relaxing and not so much packing and unpacking. If you stayed in one spot, with a car, you can hit all the places that you have in mind. I agree with StCirq, La Camargue is a worthy destination. I have another restaurant suggestion there. We had probably the best meal ever - La Cassagnette - on D36 in the direction of Solin de Girard near le Sambuc. We went for lunch. Unbelievable! You will have a great time.
JoeG

cigalechanta

Try to visit Glanum and Les Antiques outside St. Remy. If you go to the Camargue, as well as Telline is the wonderful Chez Juju in Beaudec and if you are looking for a great place to stay, 'The Mas de Pient" in Le Sambuc.
In Bonnieux, we always eat at "Le Fournil." The best restaurant in Aix, Is the "Clos de Violette." In Cassis, we like "Chez Gilbert." In Arles, "Les Vaccares."

StCirq

JoeG:

THANK you for reminding me of the name of La Cassagnette! Isn't it just the most amazing restaurant ever?
For anyone interested, for a prix fixe of around 50€ (at dinner) they serve what are essentially Camarguais tapas - dish after dish of the most amazing little treats, probably 15 or so dishes in all. A unique and unforgettable dining experience!

cigalechanta

In Aigues- Mortes, dine at " La Camargue" There were some great wannabe Gypsy Kings playing, and they serve the
Camarguise dish the Gardiane and the tellines, that the Camargue is famous for. To bring home when there: The red rice, and the fleur de sel. There's also a great knife shop, they sell the opinel knived that fold and make a wonderful gift.

JoeG

StCirq,
Oops! I spelled it wrong - it's La Chassagnette. We had a prix fixe lunch for 23E. Our server spoke the King's English so well we thought she was British. We never looked at a menu, we told her to just bring the food. We sat outside where they have a huge organic garden where most of the herbs and vegetables that they serve are grown. We also bought a bottle of the olive oil that they serve which is the best I've ever had(produced right down the road in Le Sambuc.) I believe that they now have a small hotel operation as well.
JoeG

StCirq

YOu're right, Joe, it's Chassagnette. We spent a long time over dessert chatting with the chef, who used to run a Michelin-starred place and decided it was all just too much for him. He said he wanted to devote his time to making customers happy, not pleasing the Michelin Guide people. His food really shines, doesn't it?
It was too cold in October to eat outside, but we could see the garden, and our waiter disappeared out there periodically to pick things for the kitchen.

cigalechanta

That restaurant has had very good write-ups and is only a year old. They grow Rice and lentils. One of the owners is American. Did you notice the wall of chicken wire over bay leaves?

Underhill

I would be inclined to skip Cassis in favor of a day trip to Moustiers-Ste-Marie, a delightful little town. Getting there takes you through really gorgeous mountain and other scenery. Moustiers is one of our favorite places; the town produces beautiful faience and is a charming place in which to wander.

JoeG

cigalechanta,
I am not too embarrassed to admit that I took photographs of all of the food that we were served. I also looked at several pictures of the garden area. I see one tree that has what could be chicken wire around it. Is that what you are referring to? What is the significance?
Capt - sorry for going off on this tangent - it just brings back such wonderful memories.
JoeG

Capt_Canuck

Wow, look at all these great ideas!! Thanks for the feedback everyone...Fodorites rock! I'd love to hear more!
By the way, any recommendations for St. Remy accommodation..something smaller with outdoor areas where we can munch on our lovely cheeses and drink our wine?
cheers,
CC

StCirq

Joe, the interior walls of the restaurant are constructed of zillions of bay leaves pressed on some sort of background, covered with chicken wire. Sounds odd, looks beautiful and totally in keeping with the atmosphere of the place. The ceilings are rattan.

JoeG

StCirq,
Yes - I'm looking at pictures of the walls now. I can zoom in and see all the detail perfectly. I never noticed this at the time. How unique!
JoeG

cigalechanta

Here is the Telephone number for anyone
interested in this organic restaurant.
33 49 09 72 66 96

Christina

That sounds good to me. YOu may not have that much time in Auxerre, but I would say the one must-see is the Abbaye St-Germain, with the crypts underneath. It is really interesting and has some of the oldest frescos found in France, from the 9th century. After that, probably walking around old AUxerre and maybe the cathedral Saint-Etienne, Tour Horloge, etc.

Their office of tourisme has an excellent web site:
http://www.ot-auxerre.fr/

Underhill

Just outside St.-Rémy is the 18th century Château de Roussan, which we thought quite charming--as long as modern bathrooms are not a requirement. (If so, get the room on the ground floor!) There are pleasant grounds, complete with a tiny canal stocked with swans and geese, but no pool, although there are loungers on the greensward.

Nearby, and under the same French-English ownership, is the Domaine de Valmouriane, which has some ground-floor rooms with their own small patios. There's a gorgeous pool and a mini-forest with a swing, which I loved. Nice modern bathrooms. This place has a/c, which the Château de Roussan did not when we stayed there. It might not need it, however, the walls being thick.

cigalechanta

Roussan is my idea of beautiful shabby chic.Valmouriane was a place we stopped at when lost after dark(so few lights on roads) but they were so gracious and let us use the phone. I would highly recommend them for the staff alone.