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I'm in denial about traveling to Hungary. What were your best moments and absolute must-sees-do's in Budapest?

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I'm in denial about traveling to Hungary. What were your best moments and absolute must-sees-do's in Budapest?

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Old Sep 17th, 2008, 05:09 AM
  #21  
 
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We enjoyed dinner at this restaurant, in their outdoor garden. Get a taxi!!

Náncsi Néni Vendégloje, II. Ördögárok út 80 (tel. 1/397-2742), high up in the Buda Hills, you can dine in the casual, elegant outdoor garden in summer, with live music at night.
Open Noon to 11 p.m.
Address: In the Buda Hills II. ördögárok út 80
Phone: 1/397-2742
Ordogarok ut, 80
Budapest, Hungary 1028
+36 1 397 2742
Type: East European
Prices: Soup 680 Ft-980 Ft ($3.05-$4.40); main courses 1,650 Ft-3,780 Ft ($7.40-$17) MC, Visa

My review of our evening here:

Our adventure to Náncsi Néni Vendégloje, II. Ördögárok út 80 (tel. 1/397-2742), for dinner this evening:

I had read great things about this restaurant, high in the Buda hills and reserved dinner here. Having no idea how to get here, we ordered a taxi. It was about a 20 minute drive, and we paid good attention to the route, which seemed easy, so we could return by public transportation. The taxi trip there, from Hotel Victoria, Buda side of the river, cost 2700FT + 3000FT for tip which is about $20. That’s a lot in my opinion.

It was a simple, charming, garden area with many families. They even had play equipment outdoors next to the tables for children to play on. The tables are covered in red and white check tablecloths and you sit in white plastic chairs. We sat under a large tree at a table for 2. Most tables are larger. They told us to sit where we wanted. A man was playing an accordion which was nice, and another was pouring aperitifs out of a wooden barrel with a cup at the end of a long rod. I have no idea what this is, but I went up and requested a drink. It was on the house and quite good!

I ordered breaded goat cheese, yum and a chicken, cheese, and apples dish. It was ok, not great. My husband had cold strawberry soup and quail. They have a very varied menu, with lots of choices. The plates are very large and we were so full we could order no dessert. We had a great time and really enjoyed the setting. They were extremely friendly here and dinner and wine is reasonably priced.

Our adventure began here…. We tried to return by bus and tram. It was getting late, and it took a long time to get our check. We just missed one bus. The bus stop was right across the street from this restaurant. We walked around the corner where we saw another bus stop, different #, but going the same direction. We waited here for a long time. 45 minutes later, just before the other bus was to come, a bus arrived (late). We tried to ask if it went downtown, and he said we needed the bus on the other side of the street. Well, it had just come, so we went back to the other stop. (This information turned out to be wrong). A local young man who spoke English was at the stop reading. He told us what to do, so we followed his instruction. We took this bus #167 to the end of the line where the tram was. This was easy! We took Tram #56 to Moszkva ter, which is a large central area. Many buses run from here, but it was so late that our bus M2B had stopped running. What now?? We had no idea where the other buses and trams went, and they were about to stop running for the night. We couldn’t figure out which road to walk down. We knew we weren’t to far, but couldn’t find our way. Finally we were able to flag down a taxi and returned to our hotel. This took 2 hours.

I suggest you take a taxi both ways, or leave early enough, with bus and tram maps to find your way back to the center of Budapest!!


Here's my review of our evening at a very popular restaurant which we didn't enjoy:

We had reservations at Bagolyvar, or Owl’s Castle which is right around the corner from Gundels and is it’s little sister. This is a short walk from the Hero’s Square area. The setting is lovely. We were seated in the outdoor patio, and not many tables were occupied. It was hot. We probably arrived at 8:30. Our appetizers were excellent. We ordered the cold sour cherry soup and marinated cheese and vegetables, sharing both. We were getting hotter and hotter. The mosquitoes were biting…darn. No air was circulating because this area is very enclosed, and there was no fan to help the situation. Our entrees arrived, pork barbeque and roasted duck leg. We can’t recommend either of these dishes. They were so, so dry and had little flavor. Others at the next table had the fish and the chicken and were happier with their choices. I feel bad having to report a bad experience here, but we left, unhappy with our meal and the heat that was unbearable.

We loved the Hungarian Folk Dance show:


Sunday’s folk show was the Hungarian state Folk Ensemble at the Budai Vigado theater. We bought Category 3 tickets at http://ticket.info.hu. These seats were in the first 2 rows of the theater. I guess they are supposed to be the worst seats, but we loved them and had a clear view of the stage, so great for taking pictures. They sell tickets to these shows all over town. We didn’t have to pre buy them. Our hotel also pushed them when we arrived. We had the tickets waiting for us at the site, and they took our credit card then. The location of this theater was just behind our hotel. The building was covered in scaffolding and hard to find right away. The entrance is on the side and the interior is really lovely! The show is excellent. It lasts almost 2 hours with an intermission and is great fun!


The day trip to Eger was wonderful:

Our plans today included a trip to Eger. How to get there?? You can go by train, but I heard the long distance trains weren’t to good, and seeing some on the way in from the airport, we agreed. We decided to go by bus. First we took the metro to Astoria then to Stadion station, and the bus station was next door. The trip took about 2 hours and was very comfortable. Along the way we picked up more people at bus stops. It was so sweet. So many of the people were waiting with other family members, who stayed and waved to them until the bus would leave. You don’t see that in the U.S. The bus was a/c. You can buy your tickets at the ticket window or directly from the bus driver when you board. We took the 9:15 bus and paid about $7 one way. It drops you off right in the center of the town while the train drops you off about a 20 minute walk from town. When we arrived we went to the information window to find out at what times the bus returns to Budapest. They had no idea when we asked at the station in Budapest. There is a board set up outdoors at the Eger bus station, but it only lists the buses that will be leaving soon. It was important for us to know what our choices were for our return trip. You can’t prebuy your return ticket here. You must buy the ticket from the bus driver.

The Eger Cathedral has an excellent organ concert at 11:30. We hurried to the yellow cathedral which you can easily see from the bus station, just arriving in time. The door will be closed once it starts, and you’ll have to wait until it’s over for entry. It does cost a little to listen to this concert and it’s 30 minutes in length. I loved seeing the new stained glass windows here. They are lovely, and I’m a stained glass artist, so really appreciated the work! I believe an Austrian couple donated them.

Dobo Square and the Istvan Dobo statue in the middle is a good next stop. The statue depicts the people of Eger and Dobo defending their town against the Turks. Also on this square is the Minorite Church. It’s so beautiful inside and out. Don’t miss the interior!

We had an excellent lunch at Senator Haz Hotel in their outdoor café in Little Dobo Square very close to the castle. It was time for me to try goulash! It’s a soup, but was quite spicy. The waiter brought me paprika in a jar, but warned me against actually adding any to my soup! My husband had the venison ragu soup which was much better. We also enjoyed a couple of their excellent grilled mozzarella and tomato sandwiches and of course more wine! We found the wines in Hungary excellent.

Sirens Valley just outside Eger is full of wine cellars. I was hoping we’d have time to visit some, but we weren’t able to. We saw a few of them from the bus, and it would have been nice to explore some of these cellars.

Instead, Eger Castle called. The castle grounds are spread out a bit, but quite simple. We visited a couple of the small museums here and wandered the grounds. The view of the minaret is excellent here. It was Monday so I realized not much would be open at the Lyceum, but we stopped here anyway. This is the university and trains local teachers. The lyceum contains the library the astronomical tower and the camera obscura.

Eger is small, and it was enjoyable to get out into the countryside for a day. There is a bath complex here but we didn’t spend any time here. Instead, we returned by bus to Budapest passing numerous vineyards. It was also interesting seeing all the fence posts made from rough tree trunks, hundreds of them.

You'll love Budapest once you arrive!
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Old Sep 17th, 2008, 07:29 AM
  #22  
 
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Loved Gellert baths and agree that House of Terror is a must see.
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Old Sep 17th, 2008, 08:59 AM
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julie_Colorado Would the Liszt Ferenc ter be going towards the river from the Opera House or the opposite way. We are staying at Hotel Pest which is close to Andrassy Ave and the Opera House.

Is the trattoria Toscana on the opposite side of the river from the Opera House?

Will be there the end of the month and both places sound good.

Thanks.
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Old Sep 17th, 2008, 09:48 AM
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Lizst Ferenc Ter (also the home of the music academy mentioned earlier in this post) is away from the river up Andrassey Ut. When you leave the opera house, turn left and walk up Andrassy about 2-3 blocks... It is on the right (can't miss).

Btw, the opera house is beautiful inside.. and the dress was far more casual than I expected .. and very "black". So black capris would be more normal than a red evening dress.

To get to Trattoria Toscana (which is not near the opera.. but on the same side of the river) take metro line 1 (there is an opera stop) towards the river.. that direction is towards "Vorosmarty Square" - and you will exit at that last stop. The square is pretty .. and the home of the Gerbaurd Cafe which is worth going in - but expensive.

From here.. I generally wandered to the river.. turn left.. and follow the river almost down to the market hall. (Get directions.. I'm sure they have a web site). Tram 2 also runs along the river and stops right in front of (tho across the street from) the Trattoria.
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Old Sep 17th, 2008, 10:04 AM
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Let me add... Trattoria Toscana is not cheap.. you will feel you are in Italy. And if you want to reduce costs, the pizzas are outstanding.

Liszt Ference Ter is similarly not cheap. We rented an apartment on the square.. and clearly the place for everyone (tourists/locals) to gather. Menza is an old communist style cafeteria.. and a good place to get Hungarian and non-Hungarian options.
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Old Sep 17th, 2008, 12:28 PM
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tomboy.. i also liked that musuem..

and we were lucky to go on a day there was a dixieland band concert in one of the halls. we sat out in the atrium area along some benches with others who also arrived late, and enjoyed this nice surprise.
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Old Sep 18th, 2008, 01:35 PM
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Right across from the Gellert is the Cave Church, which the Russians had concreted over but is now open. Did someone mention the Great Synagogue?? If not, you MUST, absolutely MUST see that!! There is also a shoe monument along the banks of the Danube that we missed so I hope you get to see it. And pastries from Ruzwurm on Castle Hill are mandatory too. Echo the House of Terror. Also, suggest Statue Park, outside Budapest. Weather permitting, walk across the Chain Bridge at least a dozen times. I DO know how hard it is to leave a 2 yr. old behind...I left mine at that age...I used to wrap up little gifts for each of the days we'd be away and put them on the mantle...he got to open one each day and knew when all the gifts were gone, we'd be home. My son is 18 now and in college so he apparently survived the separation!
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Old Sep 19th, 2008, 09:26 AM
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Let me add on the restaurants I recommended (Menza and Trattoria Toscana)... Dinner reservations are a must.
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Old Sep 19th, 2008, 10:07 AM
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I got into Trattoria Toscana without a reservation on a Saturday - but I showed up early and agreed to leave by 8:00.
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Old Sep 20th, 2008, 06:51 PM
  #30  
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Ugh, I can't even bring myself to read the rest of the responses!

I canceled the trip. I just didn't feel right about leaving my son for so long/far this time. It has been stuch a stressful decision.

We'll have another opportunity to visit Budapest in the future, and I so appreciate your responses. I will be marking them for future use. Thanks a bunch.
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Old Sep 20th, 2008, 07:50 PM
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Ditto Julie_Colorado's first sentence.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2008, 10:51 AM
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Oh dear... that is too bad jumper22. For future decisions, let me tell you a story.

Many years ago, my dad planned a 3 week safari to Africa. It was his dream and my mom supported him going. I was 4 years old.

I can remember it as though it were yesterday, taking him to the bus stop in town and crying my eyes out... I was shreiking I was so upset. I can remember him looking out the bus window at me as he left for JFK airport.

That evening, we were eating pizza in the den (something that was never allowed) and watching Disney. I had on my pjs and wasn't the least bit upset. The phone rang and it was my father. He needed my mom to pick him up. He didn't board his flight and was coming home. I remember thinking that was too bad.

He never quite forgot that. I never told him I was fine and didn't really care if he went. If he had to do it again, he would have gone.
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Old Oct 14th, 2008, 10:17 AM
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About restaurants : add at your list
"Mascalzone Latino", truly homemade italian dishes. Friendly with style and good prices.
In Buda side, near Batthyany ter.



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Old Oct 14th, 2008, 10:41 AM
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alexstra, as I frequent visitor to Budapest, I have made note of your recommendation. I will not be visiting the place you recommend, because I don't like advertising disguised as advice from one visitor to another.
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Old Oct 15th, 2008, 12:40 AM
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I'm sorry,
was just a simple suggest, nothing else.
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