I left my liver in Lisbon
Jul 3rd, 2022, 07:03 AM
#45
Getting to know you
The Douro Region is classified as UNESCO World Heritage and is in the oldest demarcated wine region in the World…yet it wasn’t quite what we expected.
Breakfast in the hotel felt rather regimented; the breakfast room was cordoned off, as if they expected interlopers to descend on their buffet. We showed our hotel key and were directed to a table. Coffee was brought to the table and we were let loose on the buffet. It was sufficient, but not outstanding, and we preferred the offerings (and friendliness) of our Porto hotel.
It was a chilly 6c when we walked to the station to board the 9:46 train (which was running late) from Pinhão to Pocinho in the Alto Douro, along the Douro River. I’d read this was a good way for those of us without a car to see the prettiest bits of the region (€9.60 each, return).
Pinhão train station
Pinhão train station
The Linha do Douro is considered one of the most picturesque railways in Europe and enables one to see more of the region than from a boat, as the one day cruise boats only travel as far as Pinhão.
According to the information board on the train, this, the Douro line, was initially intended to connect Porto with the Douro wine region, with Pinhão as the terminal station. Then plans were changed to extend the line into Spain.
The train was near empty, the other passengers doing the same, taking the train just for the scenery. We were both surprised at the size of the multi-day cruise boats motoring along the Douro.
Aboard the train
Cruise boats on the Douro
Douro River
Near Pocinho
Douro River
There wasn’t much to Pocinho; where the train sat at the station for 20 minutes, then returned the way it had come.
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
We really enjoyed the ride; it provided some nice views of the terraced vineyards and was pretty enough, but I certainly wouldn’t call it one of the most picturesque railways in Europe. The number and size of the various wine estates (quintas) surprised us, each marked with a massive sign perched up on the terraced hills.
Back in Pinhão we sought out Veladouro, a place Maribel had suggested we try. We mistakenly tried to follow my GPS, which led us back through town – no restaurant. Baffled, I finally gave in and asked a shopkeeper, who told us to walk down the hill to the waterfront.
Voilà! Now I get it. This is what brings people to Pinhão. This, the waterfront, is the main attraction! Quite the contrast from the ugly town center we’d been wandering through. Down here were the restaurants, the paved promenade and the pretty river views.
This was more like it.
Pinhão riverfront
Pinhão riverfront
We located Veladouro, sat outside and were told to consult the menu on the outside of the building. We did, both choosing the Caprese salad (a Maribel recommendation). We were told it was unavailable. So, I ordered the Caesar salad and Bill the tuna, and were told neither was available. Then we were told nothing on the wall menu was available, and were referred to the QR code menu.
This seemed weird, especially since newly arriving patrons were sent to the wall menu too. After a few minutes a guy comes out and tells us they have one Caprese salad available after all, so we order it to share. It was massive, plenty for two, and very good. Halfway through our meal, the waiter comes out and tells us the tuna has just arrived if we want to wait, and points to a boat. Almost full, Bill takes a pass, but a shame as it would have been incredibly fresh.
We also shared a slice of sponge cake in port reduction with walnut ice cream and ½ liter of house wine – all very good, and really good value (€21.50 – salad €12, wine €5, dessert €4.50). The Pinhão food situation was looking up.
Before leaving we booked in for dinner the next night; not knowing what food might be available, but willing to find out.
Caprese salad
Sponge cake in port reduction with walnut ice cream
Later we walked up to Quinta da la Rosa, crossing the bridge and heading uphill alongside the river, following yet another pedestrian unfriendly narrow road, stepping off as far as possible whenever a car came speeding past, wondering if we’d make it to the Quinta alive. Before leaving home I’d booked us in for tapas and wine from 3-5 in their restaurant Cozinha da Clara.
When planning this trip and with Maribel’s generous help, I’d researched all the wineries within walking distance of Pinhão and had explored what each offered in terms of meals, tastings, etc.
Most quintas seemed to specialize in tastings combined with tours. We weren’t really interested in a tour, so we opted to take a different approach.
When we arrived the patio was busy with the lunch crowd, but it soon cleared out and we had the entire patio (and the restaurant) to ourselves for two hours.
I thought they offered wine flights, but we didn’t see any on the menu, so we ordered a bottle of Rose and a plate of bread and cheese, then sat back to soak up those Douro views, which offered an entirely different perspective than from the unappealing town center. We also shared a glass of 20 year old tawny – a thoroughly enjoyable experience and more of what we’d been hoping for from the Douro (€43 Euro). Lovely indeed.
It was a beautiful day; the wind had been blowing since we arrived in Portugal and we were both wind and sun burned.
Quinta da la Rosa
View from our outdoor table at Quinta da la Rosa
Quinta da la Rosa
We followed the narrow road back to town, stopping to admire the massive empty-looking cruise boats that were docked alongside the river, wondering if we were looking at our future - old people travel. Crew members were cleaning, we didn’t see any passengers.
Swiss boat on Douro
Swiss boat on Douro
Then it was back to the hotel to claim our free drink in the library bar (port tonic) and to watch the world go by. It’d been a boozy day, but that’s why we’d come, for the wine. We were both feeling much better about Pinhão.
Vintage House, Riverside entrance
To be continued...
The Douro Region is classified as UNESCO World Heritage and is in the oldest demarcated wine region in the World…yet it wasn’t quite what we expected.
Breakfast in the hotel felt rather regimented; the breakfast room was cordoned off, as if they expected interlopers to descend on their buffet. We showed our hotel key and were directed to a table. Coffee was brought to the table and we were let loose on the buffet. It was sufficient, but not outstanding, and we preferred the offerings (and friendliness) of our Porto hotel.
It was a chilly 6c when we walked to the station to board the 9:46 train (which was running late) from Pinhão to Pocinho in the Alto Douro, along the Douro River. I’d read this was a good way for those of us without a car to see the prettiest bits of the region (€9.60 each, return).
Pinhão train station
Pinhão train station
The Linha do Douro is considered one of the most picturesque railways in Europe and enables one to see more of the region than from a boat, as the one day cruise boats only travel as far as Pinhão.
According to the information board on the train, this, the Douro line, was initially intended to connect Porto with the Douro wine region, with Pinhão as the terminal station. Then plans were changed to extend the line into Spain.
The train was near empty, the other passengers doing the same, taking the train just for the scenery. We were both surprised at the size of the multi-day cruise boats motoring along the Douro.
Aboard the train
Cruise boats on the Douro
Douro River
Near Pocinho
Douro River
There wasn’t much to Pocinho; where the train sat at the station for 20 minutes, then returned the way it had come.
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
Return to Pinhão
We really enjoyed the ride; it provided some nice views of the terraced vineyards and was pretty enough, but I certainly wouldn’t call it one of the most picturesque railways in Europe. The number and size of the various wine estates (quintas) surprised us, each marked with a massive sign perched up on the terraced hills.
Back in Pinhão we sought out Veladouro, a place Maribel had suggested we try. We mistakenly tried to follow my GPS, which led us back through town – no restaurant. Baffled, I finally gave in and asked a shopkeeper, who told us to walk down the hill to the waterfront.
Voilà! Now I get it. This is what brings people to Pinhão. This, the waterfront, is the main attraction! Quite the contrast from the ugly town center we’d been wandering through. Down here were the restaurants, the paved promenade and the pretty river views.
This was more like it.
Pinhão riverfront
Pinhão riverfront
We located Veladouro, sat outside and were told to consult the menu on the outside of the building. We did, both choosing the Caprese salad (a Maribel recommendation). We were told it was unavailable. So, I ordered the Caesar salad and Bill the tuna, and were told neither was available. Then we were told nothing on the wall menu was available, and were referred to the QR code menu.
This seemed weird, especially since newly arriving patrons were sent to the wall menu too. After a few minutes a guy comes out and tells us they have one Caprese salad available after all, so we order it to share. It was massive, plenty for two, and very good. Halfway through our meal, the waiter comes out and tells us the tuna has just arrived if we want to wait, and points to a boat. Almost full, Bill takes a pass, but a shame as it would have been incredibly fresh.
We also shared a slice of sponge cake in port reduction with walnut ice cream and ½ liter of house wine – all very good, and really good value (€21.50 – salad €12, wine €5, dessert €4.50). The Pinhão food situation was looking up.
Before leaving we booked in for dinner the next night; not knowing what food might be available, but willing to find out.
Caprese salad
Sponge cake in port reduction with walnut ice cream
Later we walked up to Quinta da la Rosa, crossing the bridge and heading uphill alongside the river, following yet another pedestrian unfriendly narrow road, stepping off as far as possible whenever a car came speeding past, wondering if we’d make it to the Quinta alive. Before leaving home I’d booked us in for tapas and wine from 3-5 in their restaurant Cozinha da Clara.
When planning this trip and with Maribel’s generous help, I’d researched all the wineries within walking distance of Pinhão and had explored what each offered in terms of meals, tastings, etc.
Most quintas seemed to specialize in tastings combined with tours. We weren’t really interested in a tour, so we opted to take a different approach.
When we arrived the patio was busy with the lunch crowd, but it soon cleared out and we had the entire patio (and the restaurant) to ourselves for two hours.
I thought they offered wine flights, but we didn’t see any on the menu, so we ordered a bottle of Rose and a plate of bread and cheese, then sat back to soak up those Douro views, which offered an entirely different perspective than from the unappealing town center. We also shared a glass of 20 year old tawny – a thoroughly enjoyable experience and more of what we’d been hoping for from the Douro (€43 Euro). Lovely indeed.
It was a beautiful day; the wind had been blowing since we arrived in Portugal and we were both wind and sun burned.
Quinta da la Rosa
View from our outdoor table at Quinta da la Rosa
Quinta da la Rosa
We followed the narrow road back to town, stopping to admire the massive empty-looking cruise boats that were docked alongside the river, wondering if we were looking at our future - old people travel. Crew members were cleaning, we didn’t see any passengers.
Swiss boat on Douro
Swiss boat on Douro
Then it was back to the hotel to claim our free drink in the library bar (port tonic) and to watch the world go by. It’d been a boozy day, but that’s why we’d come, for the wine. We were both feeling much better about Pinhão.
Vintage House, Riverside entrance
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 3rd, 2022 at 07:08 AM.
Jul 3rd, 2022, 10:49 AM
#47
I am thrilled to see your report, your pictures are wonderful and I'm soaking it all in. I spent 11 days in Portugal in 2019 before the pandemic, and your pictures are letting me relive that trip. In some of your pictures of Porto I see the apartment on the river we stayed in. I have never drank so much wine before or after that trip, I guess I really liked that port wine. Fabulous country and wonderful people. I also agree about GPS in Porto, I thought it was just me, but I could not get it to work at all.
Jul 3rd, 2022, 01:21 PM
#49
Tramping amongst the naked vines
Our hotel had offered to make a booking for a port tasting at Quinta da Roêda which was offering a “special campaign” of €7 & €9 tastings, so we booked in for 2:15.
As we wandered near our hotel, a passing local saw us looking at the Quinta da Roêda sign, and told us it was a two km walk to the Quinta.
Today’s plan was to undertake the self-guided pedestrian tour at Quinta das Carvalhas (realcompanhiavelha). We figured it was a good way to get some exercise, take in the views and sample more port.
As we walked across the bridge, I realized that we’d tasted their port in Porto.
Bridge to Quinta das Carvalhas
Orange trees
Pinhão as seen from other side of the bridge
Pinhão
We paid €10 each for access to the trail, to be followed by port tasting in the Quinta. We were led to the start of the walk and given a map, advised it was nine kilometers and would take two hours.
It was enjoyable…at first.
Even with map in hand, it was confusing. Either the trail was poorly marked, or we weren’t on it.
The trail – assuming we were on it – was steep and rugged in spots. We’d expected it to be a loop, but that’s not what we walked. It was closed at one point by a chain, forcing us to turn around.
Vineyard trail?
We felt like we’d never find our way back down to the Quinta. That’s the nature of a trail that zig zags up and down a terraced vineyard…you must zig a long way across, and then zag a long way down. The winding switchbacks had us retracing our steps.
We could see Quinta da Roêda on the opposite side of the river, taunting us, very close as the crow flies, but worlds away from our perch on the terraced vineyard. The vines here were just beginning to bud, the terraces brown and dusty.
Quinta da Roêda as seen from trail at Quinta das Carvalhas
I called our hotel, asking them to please cancel our tasting at Quinta da Roêda, as there was no way we’d make it down all those zig-zags, across the bridge and two kilometers down the opposite side of the river by 2:15.
Thinking we were lost, we sought the help of some workers trimming the olive trees, who pointed down the hill; we eventually found our way back to the Quinta, hot and tired. We’d walked six miles in three frustrating, zig-zagging hours.
But the views were fantastic. As was the port. I have no doubt these terraced vineyards must be spectacular when covered in green.
Views from vineyard walk
Vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Quinta as seen from across the river
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views of Pinhão and bridge from vineyard walk
Vineyard walk
Then it was back across the bridge and down to the waterfront in search of food (none available at Quinta das Carvalhas unfortunately).
Enticed by their lovely riverside location we mistakenly selected Vale do Tabua Wine & Tapas for lunch. I had a long conversation with the proprietor about their wines and selected a bottle. Not much on the limited menu appealed, so we asked how big the pizzas were, planning to share, and were told they were individual sized. So we ordered two. Turns out they were more than sufficient to share, but truly awful.
Good wine, bad food (and to add insult to injury, we were overcharged for two already expensive pizzas – €45). The experience left a bad taste, and I’m not just talking about the food.
Bill retreated to the hotel, but I decided to wander a bit.
Pinhão
Pinhão
Pinhão
We had a repeat dinner at Veladouro that night. We’d booked, but the place was empty. Being told to book, be it for meals, tastings, tours or walks, had become a recurring theme in Pinhão, but had not seemed necessary. I asked our waiter if it was due to the cruise boat passengers. He said they don’t come ashore to eat, they dine on their boats. He said they see 6-7 large cruise boats a day, but no customers from the boats. Huh.
Unfortunately, they still had no tuna and no tenderloin, dashing Bill’s hopes. I guess you just never know what might be on the menu when you arrive.
So, we shared an encore Caprese salad and drunken cake – this time served with strawberry ice cream, and of course more wine and water (€25.50). Still good.
We then walked along the deserted waterfront back to our hotel, passing a well-lit cruise boat filled with older folks seated at dining tables. Again wondering if this was our future.
Pinhão
Pinhão
Pinhão
To be continued...
Our hotel had offered to make a booking for a port tasting at Quinta da Roêda which was offering a “special campaign” of €7 & €9 tastings, so we booked in for 2:15.
As we wandered near our hotel, a passing local saw us looking at the Quinta da Roêda sign, and told us it was a two km walk to the Quinta.
Today’s plan was to undertake the self-guided pedestrian tour at Quinta das Carvalhas (realcompanhiavelha). We figured it was a good way to get some exercise, take in the views and sample more port.
As we walked across the bridge, I realized that we’d tasted their port in Porto.
Bridge to Quinta das Carvalhas
Orange trees
Pinhão as seen from other side of the bridge
Pinhão
We paid €10 each for access to the trail, to be followed by port tasting in the Quinta. We were led to the start of the walk and given a map, advised it was nine kilometers and would take two hours.
It was enjoyable…at first.
Even with map in hand, it was confusing. Either the trail was poorly marked, or we weren’t on it.
The trail – assuming we were on it – was steep and rugged in spots. We’d expected it to be a loop, but that’s not what we walked. It was closed at one point by a chain, forcing us to turn around.
Vineyard trail?
We felt like we’d never find our way back down to the Quinta. That’s the nature of a trail that zig zags up and down a terraced vineyard…you must zig a long way across, and then zag a long way down. The winding switchbacks had us retracing our steps.
We could see Quinta da Roêda on the opposite side of the river, taunting us, very close as the crow flies, but worlds away from our perch on the terraced vineyard. The vines here were just beginning to bud, the terraces brown and dusty.
Quinta da Roêda as seen from trail at Quinta das Carvalhas
I called our hotel, asking them to please cancel our tasting at Quinta da Roêda, as there was no way we’d make it down all those zig-zags, across the bridge and two kilometers down the opposite side of the river by 2:15.
Thinking we were lost, we sought the help of some workers trimming the olive trees, who pointed down the hill; we eventually found our way back to the Quinta, hot and tired. We’d walked six miles in three frustrating, zig-zagging hours.
But the views were fantastic. As was the port. I have no doubt these terraced vineyards must be spectacular when covered in green.
Views from vineyard walk
Vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Quinta as seen from across the river
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views from vineyard walk
Views of Pinhão and bridge from vineyard walk
Vineyard walk
Then it was back across the bridge and down to the waterfront in search of food (none available at Quinta das Carvalhas unfortunately).
Enticed by their lovely riverside location we mistakenly selected Vale do Tabua Wine & Tapas for lunch. I had a long conversation with the proprietor about their wines and selected a bottle. Not much on the limited menu appealed, so we asked how big the pizzas were, planning to share, and were told they were individual sized. So we ordered two. Turns out they were more than sufficient to share, but truly awful.
Good wine, bad food (and to add insult to injury, we were overcharged for two already expensive pizzas – €45). The experience left a bad taste, and I’m not just talking about the food.
Bill retreated to the hotel, but I decided to wander a bit.
Pinhão
Pinhão
Pinhão
We had a repeat dinner at Veladouro that night. We’d booked, but the place was empty. Being told to book, be it for meals, tastings, tours or walks, had become a recurring theme in Pinhão, but had not seemed necessary. I asked our waiter if it was due to the cruise boat passengers. He said they don’t come ashore to eat, they dine on their boats. He said they see 6-7 large cruise boats a day, but no customers from the boats. Huh.
Unfortunately, they still had no tuna and no tenderloin, dashing Bill’s hopes. I guess you just never know what might be on the menu when you arrive.
So, we shared an encore Caprese salad and drunken cake – this time served with strawberry ice cream, and of course more wine and water (€25.50). Still good.
We then walked along the deserted waterfront back to our hotel, passing a well-lit cruise boat filled with older folks seated at dining tables. Again wondering if this was our future.
Pinhão
Pinhão
Pinhão
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 3rd, 2022 at 01:28 PM.
Jul 3rd, 2022, 04:25 PM
#51
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Enjoying your report and photos. We visited Lisbon and Sintra in 2018 and I would love to return to Portugal, especially after reading your report and Progol's report. So were you on the wrong trail when you were in the vineyard? The scenery is lovely but I am sure it was frustrating to miss your tasting. Pinhao and Porto look very, very interesting.
Jul 4th, 2022, 10:18 AM
#53
The land of black capes
We hung around the hotel until 11 am, having purchased train tickets from Pinhão to Porto (Interregional) and tickets and seat reservations from Porto to Coimbra (Intercidades) online weeks in advance (€19.90 each for both segments).
Upon learning that we were traveling by train at check-out, the guy in reception led us back through that labyrinth of a hotel to a side door, which led up to the train station. Ah-ha! Wish we’d known about that upon arrival.
In keeping with our Portuguese train experience thus far, our train to Porto Campanha was 16 minutes late, eating into our eight minute connection time.
We spoke to the conductor; he told us to wait, not to worry just yet.
Quite a few people and groups were leaving Pinhão; more people than we’d seen since we arrived here; many got off in Régua, which struck both of us as much bigger than its population of 17,131.
Once again we were struck with how developed Portugal seems. Perhaps because so many cities go upwards due to the hilly topography? Buildings were perched high up on the hillsides seemingly everywhere at this end of the Douro. I can’t even imagine the construction challenges.
Our surroundings felt much greener than they had just a few days ago. The vineyards near Régua looked to be in full leaf. Spring was working its way north.
We passed groves of Arum lilies, orange and olive trees; oranges lining the ground beneath the trees.
No announcements had been made on any of our train journeys so far, and there were no monitors to advise what stop was coming up. The CP app didn’t even list stops, so it was a bit confusing, and we had to pay close attention so as to not miss our stop.
Our train driver drove like a bat out of hell and we arrived at Porto Campanha only six minutes late. Our connecting train was still there, and directly across the platform making for an easy transition.
This was a much nicer train than the rather rustic ones we’d been on thus far; the ride interesting. As we passed through what I think were the suburbs of Porto, we went directly through a neighborhood with houses very close to the train tracks on both sides, and through what appeared to be a massive rail construction project. It reminded me of the time we landed in Hong Kong Kai Tak airport eons ago, the surrounding buildings freakishly close.
https://edition.cnn.com/travel/artic...html?gallery=0
We arrived in Coimbra, aka the Oxford or Cambridge of Portugal, once again surprised at its size. It wasn’t clear where to catch our train from Coimbra B to Coimbra Centro; fortunately a passersby saw our confusion and helped. Gotta love the Portuguese.
We then tried to follow our GPS to our apartment, soon encountering a large police and fire department presence blocking the road we needed. It wasn’t clear if there was a problem or if this was a drill.
They were turning back pedestrians; we were unsure of what to do. It was very confusing; there was also a lot of construction – (construction in Portugal had begun to feel like summer road work in Colorado, perpetual and never-ending). Bill left me with the luggage and tried to find another way to the apartment, eventually finding an alternate route.
Once at the apartment we were confronted with 65 steps up to our fourth four unit. When booking, I’d asked the owner which unit was the quietest, and had booked accordingly. I knew there would be stairs, as the apartment was in the historic center, but I had underestimated how many, how narrow and how steep. Getting up there with our luggage was an ordeal; Bill may never forgive me.
Although we were on the fourth floor, there was a construction crew right outside and level to the window; so close that we could almost reach out the window and touch them.
Concerned about noise, I called the owner to get the scoop on the construction. He came right over and said they were building a new light rail and would knock off about 5 or 6 pm. So we shuttered the window and hoped for the best.
He (Bruno) was also unaware of the police and fire department activity just two blocks over. But he did tell us that Portugal had “good food, good wine, good beaches…but no money”.
We were discouraged and tired, but decided to give it a night and see how it went (it went fine, the construction was a non-issue, the apartment was spacious and quiet and we got our exercise going up and down those damn steps – Sophia Residences, attic unit, €200 for three nights).
We headed out to explore; first popping into a grocery store; the strong smell of Bacalhau - dried salted cod – nearly bowling us over.
I then googled “pizza near me”, and we followed my GPS to Il Tartufo for sustenance. Great place this. Our Italian waiter was hilarious, the pizza and wine lovely (€35).
We’d consistently been overwhelmed with the wine options, so we had settled into a routine of ordering the house wine everywhere we dined; and we’d not been disappointed.
Il Tartufo
Il Tartufo
Il Tartufo
Afterwards we wandered the streets and stumbled upon a shop that sold nothing but canned sardines.
Sardines anyone?
We then sought out gelato, watched a group of college kids do who-knows-what, and eventually found our way back to the apartment.
To be continued...
We hung around the hotel until 11 am, having purchased train tickets from Pinhão to Porto (Interregional) and tickets and seat reservations from Porto to Coimbra (Intercidades) online weeks in advance (€19.90 each for both segments).
Upon learning that we were traveling by train at check-out, the guy in reception led us back through that labyrinth of a hotel to a side door, which led up to the train station. Ah-ha! Wish we’d known about that upon arrival.
In keeping with our Portuguese train experience thus far, our train to Porto Campanha was 16 minutes late, eating into our eight minute connection time.
We spoke to the conductor; he told us to wait, not to worry just yet.
Quite a few people and groups were leaving Pinhão; more people than we’d seen since we arrived here; many got off in Régua, which struck both of us as much bigger than its population of 17,131.
Once again we were struck with how developed Portugal seems. Perhaps because so many cities go upwards due to the hilly topography? Buildings were perched high up on the hillsides seemingly everywhere at this end of the Douro. I can’t even imagine the construction challenges.
Our surroundings felt much greener than they had just a few days ago. The vineyards near Régua looked to be in full leaf. Spring was working its way north.
We passed groves of Arum lilies, orange and olive trees; oranges lining the ground beneath the trees.
No announcements had been made on any of our train journeys so far, and there were no monitors to advise what stop was coming up. The CP app didn’t even list stops, so it was a bit confusing, and we had to pay close attention so as to not miss our stop.
Our train driver drove like a bat out of hell and we arrived at Porto Campanha only six minutes late. Our connecting train was still there, and directly across the platform making for an easy transition.
This was a much nicer train than the rather rustic ones we’d been on thus far; the ride interesting. As we passed through what I think were the suburbs of Porto, we went directly through a neighborhood with houses very close to the train tracks on both sides, and through what appeared to be a massive rail construction project. It reminded me of the time we landed in Hong Kong Kai Tak airport eons ago, the surrounding buildings freakishly close.
https://edition.cnn.com/travel/artic...html?gallery=0
We arrived in Coimbra, aka the Oxford or Cambridge of Portugal, once again surprised at its size. It wasn’t clear where to catch our train from Coimbra B to Coimbra Centro; fortunately a passersby saw our confusion and helped. Gotta love the Portuguese.
We then tried to follow our GPS to our apartment, soon encountering a large police and fire department presence blocking the road we needed. It wasn’t clear if there was a problem or if this was a drill.
They were turning back pedestrians; we were unsure of what to do. It was very confusing; there was also a lot of construction – (construction in Portugal had begun to feel like summer road work in Colorado, perpetual and never-ending). Bill left me with the luggage and tried to find another way to the apartment, eventually finding an alternate route.
Once at the apartment we were confronted with 65 steps up to our fourth four unit. When booking, I’d asked the owner which unit was the quietest, and had booked accordingly. I knew there would be stairs, as the apartment was in the historic center, but I had underestimated how many, how narrow and how steep. Getting up there with our luggage was an ordeal; Bill may never forgive me.
Although we were on the fourth floor, there was a construction crew right outside and level to the window; so close that we could almost reach out the window and touch them.
Concerned about noise, I called the owner to get the scoop on the construction. He came right over and said they were building a new light rail and would knock off about 5 or 6 pm. So we shuttered the window and hoped for the best.
He (Bruno) was also unaware of the police and fire department activity just two blocks over. But he did tell us that Portugal had “good food, good wine, good beaches…but no money”.
We were discouraged and tired, but decided to give it a night and see how it went (it went fine, the construction was a non-issue, the apartment was spacious and quiet and we got our exercise going up and down those damn steps – Sophia Residences, attic unit, €200 for three nights).
We headed out to explore; first popping into a grocery store; the strong smell of Bacalhau - dried salted cod – nearly bowling us over.
I then googled “pizza near me”, and we followed my GPS to Il Tartufo for sustenance. Great place this. Our Italian waiter was hilarious, the pizza and wine lovely (€35).
We’d consistently been overwhelmed with the wine options, so we had settled into a routine of ordering the house wine everywhere we dined; and we’d not been disappointed.
Il Tartufo
Il Tartufo
Il Tartufo
Afterwards we wandered the streets and stumbled upon a shop that sold nothing but canned sardines.
Sardines anyone?
We then sought out gelato, watched a group of college kids do who-knows-what, and eventually found our way back to the apartment.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 4th, 2022 at 10:21 AM.
Jul 4th, 2022, 12:53 PM
#55
Old books, cats and Fado
Sure enough, the noise outside our window fired up at 8 am. We’d had a pretty quiet night, once the traffic died down. We were definitely in the thick of things here in Coimbra.
Bill was happy with apartment coffee, but I went out looking for a nice latte, down those 65 steps, finding one across the street (€1.20) sipped while people watching and looking at the Portuguese news coverage of the war in Ukraine, which we’d managed to avoid for the past 10 days.
Then I popped into a bakery and picked up a pastel da nata for Bill and a mystery pastry for me – something in filo – I’d seen these in every bakery window we’d passed in Coimbra thus far. Then it was back up those 65 steps.
At first bite I thought my pastry was apricot due to the color, but no, it was egg! Seems the egg hater had bought herself a Pastel de Tentúgal which I’ve since learned is regarded as one of the seven iconic dishes of Portuguese cuisine. I wasn’t doing so well with the Portuguese pastries. Even egg eater Bill didn’t care for it.
Our day started with a wander through Mercado Municipal.
Mercado Municipal
Mercado Municipal
Mercado Municipal
Then we walked up to the University, taking in a bit of street art and views of the city along the way.
Street art
City views
City views
Like much of Portugal, Coimbra is full of hills, but I’d read that it’s less taxing on the legs to walk along the 16th century São Sebastião aqueduct instead of via the staircase on Rua Oliveire Matos.
We didn’t see the aqueduct, but the hills didn’t seem bad, so we have no idea which route we took. We did pass the elevator en route, although we never saw the funicular I’d read about.
Regardless, we found the University, and bought tickets at the ticket office for the Baroque Library, St Michael’s Chapel, the Royal Palace and the Chemistry Lab (€12.50 each). We later discovered that many visitors had walked right past the ticket office and had to backtrack to purchase tickets.
Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome.
Afterwards we explored the chapel and palace at our leisure, and then sought out the chemistry lab. I rather enjoyed the ceilings in the chapel.
Coimbra University
Coimbra University
Chapel
Chapel ceiling
More tile
Chapel ceiling
Chapel ceiling
After getting our fill of the University, and getting turned around more than once, I googled ‘Indian food near me’ and we followed my GPS down several steep winding streets to Gul and Guls near the river. Here we both partook of their set lunch, a thali which consisted of a choice of curry, rice, salad and roti, plus wine and coffee. Our waitress asked if we wanted a small or big wine, and advised the price was the same, so it was a no brainer. She then brought out an entire bottle!
The food was pretty good and at €12.30 total, inclusive of coffee and wine…a hell of a bargain.
After lunch, we worked our way back up and then down a labyrinth of very steep hills, wondering how we’d missed them this morning, and sought out the Cat Café, which I’d run across during my research and wanted to check out.
Coimbra
Coimbra
For €1 or purchase of a coffee, one is granted access to the cat playroom, where we found three resident cats and a fourth up for adoption. All proceeds from the café go towards their care and treatment and towards that of other abandoned cats.
We were told that all the cats had food related names; none of which I can remember. One had been rescued after being hit by a car and had a permanent limp. When we asked about him, the employee we spoke with asked if we wanted to adopt him, and explained that people from as far away as Brazil had taken cats home with them.
The coffee was very good, the brownie, not-so-much, the entertainment excellent.
Cat Cafe
Cat Cafe
Cat Cafe
We were finding Coimbra to be a city of narrow winding alleyways, and a fair amount of grit (the gloom didn't help).
Coimbra
Coimbra
That evening we went to Café Santa Cruz, where for the price of a drink or snack, one can enjoy their free Fado performances at 6 and 10 pm daily. Thoroughly enjoyable.
Fado, Café Santa Cruz
Café Santa Cruz
After the Fado performance, we walked down to the Mercado, as Bill was craving some sushi. We were surprised to find it closed. A passerby asked us what type of food we were looking for and laughed when we said sushi. Evidently, the Mercado is only open for lunch.
So, we walked in the rain back to II Tartufo. It was 8 pm on a Friday night, yet Coimbra felt much quieter than the previous night, as if the sidewalks had been rolled up.
The restaurant however, was heaving. In an attempt to eat light since it was so late we shared a lovely vegetable pasta and a fabulous Tiramisu (€22.50 with sparkling water and one glass of red).
Tiramisu
Then it was back through the quiet streets to our apartment.
Coimbra after dark
Coimbra after dark
To be continued...
Sure enough, the noise outside our window fired up at 8 am. We’d had a pretty quiet night, once the traffic died down. We were definitely in the thick of things here in Coimbra.
Bill was happy with apartment coffee, but I went out looking for a nice latte, down those 65 steps, finding one across the street (€1.20) sipped while people watching and looking at the Portuguese news coverage of the war in Ukraine, which we’d managed to avoid for the past 10 days.
Then I popped into a bakery and picked up a pastel da nata for Bill and a mystery pastry for me – something in filo – I’d seen these in every bakery window we’d passed in Coimbra thus far. Then it was back up those 65 steps.
At first bite I thought my pastry was apricot due to the color, but no, it was egg! Seems the egg hater had bought herself a Pastel de Tentúgal which I’ve since learned is regarded as one of the seven iconic dishes of Portuguese cuisine. I wasn’t doing so well with the Portuguese pastries. Even egg eater Bill didn’t care for it.
Our day started with a wander through Mercado Municipal.
Mercado Municipal
Mercado Municipal
Mercado Municipal
Then we walked up to the University, taking in a bit of street art and views of the city along the way.
Street art
City views
City views
Like much of Portugal, Coimbra is full of hills, but I’d read that it’s less taxing on the legs to walk along the 16th century São Sebastião aqueduct instead of via the staircase on Rua Oliveire Matos.
We didn’t see the aqueduct, but the hills didn’t seem bad, so we have no idea which route we took. We did pass the elevator en route, although we never saw the funicular I’d read about.
Regardless, we found the University, and bought tickets at the ticket office for the Baroque Library, St Michael’s Chapel, the Royal Palace and the Chemistry Lab (€12.50 each). We later discovered that many visitors had walked right past the ticket office and had to backtrack to purchase tickets.
Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome.
Afterwards we explored the chapel and palace at our leisure, and then sought out the chemistry lab. I rather enjoyed the ceilings in the chapel.
Coimbra University
Coimbra University
Chapel
Chapel ceiling
More tile
Chapel ceiling
Chapel ceiling
After getting our fill of the University, and getting turned around more than once, I googled ‘Indian food near me’ and we followed my GPS down several steep winding streets to Gul and Guls near the river. Here we both partook of their set lunch, a thali which consisted of a choice of curry, rice, salad and roti, plus wine and coffee. Our waitress asked if we wanted a small or big wine, and advised the price was the same, so it was a no brainer. She then brought out an entire bottle!
The food was pretty good and at €12.30 total, inclusive of coffee and wine…a hell of a bargain.
After lunch, we worked our way back up and then down a labyrinth of very steep hills, wondering how we’d missed them this morning, and sought out the Cat Café, which I’d run across during my research and wanted to check out.
Coimbra
Coimbra
For €1 or purchase of a coffee, one is granted access to the cat playroom, where we found three resident cats and a fourth up for adoption. All proceeds from the café go towards their care and treatment and towards that of other abandoned cats.
We were told that all the cats had food related names; none of which I can remember. One had been rescued after being hit by a car and had a permanent limp. When we asked about him, the employee we spoke with asked if we wanted to adopt him, and explained that people from as far away as Brazil had taken cats home with them.
The coffee was very good, the brownie, not-so-much, the entertainment excellent.
Cat Cafe
Cat Cafe
Cat Cafe
We were finding Coimbra to be a city of narrow winding alleyways, and a fair amount of grit (the gloom didn't help).
Coimbra
Coimbra
That evening we went to Café Santa Cruz, where for the price of a drink or snack, one can enjoy their free Fado performances at 6 and 10 pm daily. Thoroughly enjoyable.
Fado, Café Santa Cruz
Café Santa Cruz
After the Fado performance, we walked down to the Mercado, as Bill was craving some sushi. We were surprised to find it closed. A passerby asked us what type of food we were looking for and laughed when we said sushi. Evidently, the Mercado is only open for lunch.
So, we walked in the rain back to II Tartufo. It was 8 pm on a Friday night, yet Coimbra felt much quieter than the previous night, as if the sidewalks had been rolled up.
The restaurant however, was heaving. In an attempt to eat light since it was so late we shared a lovely vegetable pasta and a fabulous Tiramisu (€22.50 with sparkling water and one glass of red).
Tiramisu
Then it was back through the quiet streets to our apartment.
Coimbra after dark
Coimbra after dark
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jul 4th, 2022 at 12:59 PM.
Jul 5th, 2022, 07:05 AM
#59
Thanks Melnq8 fo this post.
Lovely pictures as always when you post.
You captured the beauty of the places you visited so effectively. Thanks.
You really had a nice location in Pinhao.
In Coimbra did you go to the Joanina Library at the University Square?
( My tour guide to me you pronounce Coimbra like ( Queem.- Bra !)
I beg your pardon if I may post 3 pictures inside the Joanina Library............ because you cannot take pictures inside there, but you really have to see this place
Thanks Melnq8...........keep those pictures coming , they are all very lovely.
The very beautiful Joanina Library in Coimbra University Square
No picture taking inside
Spectacular throughout !!
Lovely pictures as always when you post.
You captured the beauty of the places you visited so effectively. Thanks.
You really had a nice location in Pinhao.
In Coimbra did you go to the Joanina Library at the University Square?
( My tour guide to me you pronounce Coimbra like ( Queem.- Bra !)
I beg your pardon if I may post 3 pictures inside the Joanina Library............ because you cannot take pictures inside there, but you really have to see this place
Thanks Melnq8...........keep those pictures coming , they are all very lovely.
The very beautiful Joanina Library in Coimbra University Square
No picture taking inside
Spectacular throughout !!
Jul 5th, 2022, 08:26 AM
#60
In Coimbra did you go to the Joanina Library at the University Square?
Yes, as stated above:
Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome.
Yes, as stated above:
Our entry into the Biblioteca Joanina Baroque Library (the oldest library in Portugal) was timed, with entry 15 minutes after we arrived, and limited to a 15 minute visit. We were ushered along by an employee who made sure we didn’t overstay our welcome.
