How to spend 4 nights in Venice?
Feb 3rd, 2010, 12:23 PM
#41
hi again, Jill,
loads of good ideas from other posters too.
two things [no sorry, three] to add to the list:
the Frari church in Santa Croce [a previous post of mine about it was quoted in fodors, so how could I forget it?] for its Raphael, choir stalls, and some of the most bizzare mausoleums on the planet
the near-by scuola di san rocco [if you've never known anything about tintoretto, be prepared to be amazed]
the church of the jesuits [i jesuiti] near the vaporetto stop for the boat to Burano - the most wonderful marble curtains!
loads of good ideas from other posters too.
two things [no sorry, three] to add to the list:
the Frari church in Santa Croce [a previous post of mine about it was quoted in fodors, so how could I forget it?] for its Raphael, choir stalls, and some of the most bizzare mausoleums on the planet
the near-by scuola di san rocco [if you've never known anything about tintoretto, be prepared to be amazed]
the church of the jesuits [i jesuiti] near the vaporetto stop for the boat to Burano - the most wonderful marble curtains!
Feb 3rd, 2010, 02:46 PM
#43
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Peter - thank you so much for your detailed insight on Venice. I just read through it all and I have thoroughly enjoyed myself. You seem quite the expert and there are a lot of your recommendations that I will be doing. So, I appreciate that.
Wanted your opinion - In your opinion, should I take the gondola ride at sunset or at night? Also, is 40 minutes long enough or should I do 60 minutes? OR even longer?
Wanted your opinion - In your opinion, should I take the gondola ride at sunset or at night? Also, is 40 minutes long enough or should I do 60 minutes? OR even longer?
Feb 3rd, 2010, 03:23 PM
#44
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I must confess that we did not take a gondola ride. Once we saw bus loads of Japanese tourists standing in line waiting for their obligatory ride (part of the package, no doubt) we decided that it was not worth the doing. (Temperatures around 5 deg C did not make it attractive either.)
The thing is, we spent nine weeks there, and so the priorities – and the memories that one takes home - are different.
If you are flying into or out of, Venice, spend the 100 Euro on a water taxi to the airport. That is really travelling in style!
Personally, I see the gondola thing as being a cliche. (Peter retires to bunker, in anticipation of a storm of protest from other Fodorites.)
The thing is, we spent nine weeks there, and so the priorities – and the memories that one takes home - are different.
If you are flying into or out of, Venice, spend the 100 Euro on a water taxi to the airport. That is really travelling in style!
Personally, I see the gondola thing as being a cliche. (Peter retires to bunker, in anticipation of a storm of protest from other Fodorites.)
Feb 3rd, 2010, 03:39 PM
#45
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The other thing you can do is take a traghetto across the Grand Canal. Traghettos are gondolas, with two at the oars. They ferry people across the canal, and there’s one just upstream of the Rialto markets. There’s one about 100 yards downstream of the Rialto bridge, and a couple of others as well (ca’ Rezzonico has one but it does not work all the time).
Venetians use traghettos all the time, so you are voyaging with women with shopping trolleys, the occasional dog, guys with their tools of trade. The routine is that you get on, walk to the back of the traghetto, and turn around. Very few people sit down. Pay the guy as you get on, and pay with coin, not notes.
The beauty is that it costs only half a Euro. The cheapest ride in all of Venice, and it gets you into the mainstream of Venetian life – the water.
My thinking – if you take a gondola ride, go as early in the morning as you can. The way the light falls in Venice in the morning is magic – you’ll see the same light that had JMW Turner painting the most exceptional works.
Venetians use traghettos all the time, so you are voyaging with women with shopping trolleys, the occasional dog, guys with their tools of trade. The routine is that you get on, walk to the back of the traghetto, and turn around. Very few people sit down. Pay the guy as you get on, and pay with coin, not notes.
The beauty is that it costs only half a Euro. The cheapest ride in all of Venice, and it gets you into the mainstream of Venetian life – the water.
My thinking – if you take a gondola ride, go as early in the morning as you can. The way the light falls in Venice in the morning is magic – you’ll see the same light that had JMW Turner painting the most exceptional works.
Feb 3rd, 2010, 03:51 PM
#47
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Peter - my husband is an engineer as well. I believe he will truly appreciate the infrastructure and detail that you have provided.
Well, I do have some things to think about. Whether I want to take a gondola ride at sunrise, sunset, or night time. Oh, what a horrible life to have to ponder these thoughts...
Well, I do have some things to think about. Whether I want to take a gondola ride at sunrise, sunset, or night time. Oh, what a horrible life to have to ponder these thoughts...
Feb 3rd, 2010, 04:47 PM
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Next visit I vow to take a traghetto.
(I almost went in a gondola once. After we our wedding ceremony at Venice's city hall, we were going to put all 14 guests in gondolas and ride in style to our wedding luncheon restaurant in Dorsoduro. It was raining and the Grand Canal looked very choppy, so we decided to avoid making our guests seasick before lunch and walked.)
(I almost went in a gondola once. After we our wedding ceremony at Venice's city hall, we were going to put all 14 guests in gondolas and ride in style to our wedding luncheon restaurant in Dorsoduro. It was raining and the Grand Canal looked very choppy, so we decided to avoid making our guests seasick before lunch and walked.)
Feb 4th, 2010, 12:55 PM
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Hello again, JillDavis. You've gotten so many great responses; good for you. Hope your Venice stay is all you can possibly desire! My husband & I also no longer visit museums & churches in Venice, so I hope you don't mind that I have added our list of Venetian 'fun' to the mountains of others you have received! I'll post our walk to/in St. Elena in a following post.
1. Take lots & lots of photos, even if you do not like to take photos; just keep clicking away. I bet you will love your photo memories; we certainly do!
2. Rialto market - fish "creatures" we had never seen before; most vibrant veggie & fruit colors; great photos. We loved the local feel of the market, the vendors 'spit-shining' their fruit (literally!), the cats & dogs wandering around the stalls, & the little birds perched on & pecking the grapes (Veneitan version of bird feeders, I guess!).
3. Once we took a cheaper shared daytime gondola ride. For us the joy was in riding around in the behind-the-scenes little canals, seeing the 'other' side of the Venetian residences, & as always, the great photos!
4. Visit San Marco Square at night & have a romantic free dance between the dueling bands & in the light of the beautiful basillica.
5. Get a good map & walk from San Marco to Fondamenta Nove - beautiful walk away from the tourists & thru some gorgeous Venetian neighborhoods. Along the way you'll find local (non-tourist) eating spots for lunch & yummy bakeries.
6. Spend some time in the Venetian groceries. We enjoyed seeing the "different" food offerings & prices - notice eggs are not refrigerated!
7. Visit a glass retail shop & mask retail shop. The products are beautiful & fascinating - art without a museum.
8. Stroll down Mercerie (main drag from Rialto to San Marco) & gasp at the prices & beautiful fashion of the clothing in the store windows.
9. View the only remaining gondola repair shop in Venice. Onsite visiting is not allowed, but outside viewing & photo ops are great, & we thought it was fascinating to see. It first opened in the 17th century & the wooden structure (rare in Venice) next to it is the residence of the current generations of the founding family. North of the Zattere (the wide walkway that runs alongside the Giudecca Canal in Dorsoduro); lies next to the Church of San Trovaso on the narrow Rio San Trovaso (not far from the Accademia Bridge); can observe from across the narrow Rio di San Trovaso.
10. We always visit our favorite eating spot - Ostia Tana behind the Naval Museum. It is a small place; has outside & inside seating; the plateful of spaghetti with meat sauce is too much to eat & in Nov 2008 was about 10 euros; pizza is great too. And the folks are so nice & they always remember us from year to year! Afterwards, walk further along the canal away from the Naval Museum for more views.
11. Buy some fruit from the Rialto Market & some salami, cheese, bread, & wine from a grocery. Wander into a non-tourist neighborhood, find a quaint square with park benches, & enjoy your picnic lunch while watching the locals go about their daily business! Wow - now that is enjoying Venice! There are some great spots for this in St. Elena.
12. Ride over to the Lido & stroll along the beach.
Next post - our St. Elena walk.
Julie
1. Take lots & lots of photos, even if you do not like to take photos; just keep clicking away. I bet you will love your photo memories; we certainly do!
2. Rialto market - fish "creatures" we had never seen before; most vibrant veggie & fruit colors; great photos. We loved the local feel of the market, the vendors 'spit-shining' their fruit (literally!), the cats & dogs wandering around the stalls, & the little birds perched on & pecking the grapes (Veneitan version of bird feeders, I guess!).
3. Once we took a cheaper shared daytime gondola ride. For us the joy was in riding around in the behind-the-scenes little canals, seeing the 'other' side of the Venetian residences, & as always, the great photos!
4. Visit San Marco Square at night & have a romantic free dance between the dueling bands & in the light of the beautiful basillica.
5. Get a good map & walk from San Marco to Fondamenta Nove - beautiful walk away from the tourists & thru some gorgeous Venetian neighborhoods. Along the way you'll find local (non-tourist) eating spots for lunch & yummy bakeries.
6. Spend some time in the Venetian groceries. We enjoyed seeing the "different" food offerings & prices - notice eggs are not refrigerated!
7. Visit a glass retail shop & mask retail shop. The products are beautiful & fascinating - art without a museum.
8. Stroll down Mercerie (main drag from Rialto to San Marco) & gasp at the prices & beautiful fashion of the clothing in the store windows.
9. View the only remaining gondola repair shop in Venice. Onsite visiting is not allowed, but outside viewing & photo ops are great, & we thought it was fascinating to see. It first opened in the 17th century & the wooden structure (rare in Venice) next to it is the residence of the current generations of the founding family. North of the Zattere (the wide walkway that runs alongside the Giudecca Canal in Dorsoduro); lies next to the Church of San Trovaso on the narrow Rio San Trovaso (not far from the Accademia Bridge); can observe from across the narrow Rio di San Trovaso.
10. We always visit our favorite eating spot - Ostia Tana behind the Naval Museum. It is a small place; has outside & inside seating; the plateful of spaghetti with meat sauce is too much to eat & in Nov 2008 was about 10 euros; pizza is great too. And the folks are so nice & they always remember us from year to year! Afterwards, walk further along the canal away from the Naval Museum for more views.
11. Buy some fruit from the Rialto Market & some salami, cheese, bread, & wine from a grocery. Wander into a non-tourist neighborhood, find a quaint square with park benches, & enjoy your picnic lunch while watching the locals go about their daily business! Wow - now that is enjoying Venice! There are some great spots for this in St. Elena.
12. Ride over to the Lido & stroll along the beach.
Next post - our St. Elena walk.
Julie
Feb 4th, 2010, 01:48 PM
#54
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Our favorite part of Venice (after the cemetery) - St. Elena:
Here's the route we take - of course we consistently wander off this route, veering here & there, & then back on course again. We make this a many hour adventure. It really helps if you have a good map showing all of the streets so you don't miss any of them.
Begin with San Marco at your back & facing the Grand Canal, turn left onto the main drag & stroll along the Grand Canal, passing the Bridge of Sighs, stopping to look at the tourist shops/stalls, & of course, eating Gelato. Turn onto Via Giuseppe Garibaldi (only goes left & is not far after passing the Naval Museum); a very wide street & so wonderful for a leisurely stroll past the local shops & eateries. Explore the little alley-like streets on the left - lots of laundry hanging high above. About half way down Garibaldi on the right is a steel fence & gate. Walk thru the gate & discover this nice little park with a fountain we love (great photo op!), which is partly covered with moss. Have a seat on one of the benches & watch the local activity - women pushing baby carriages, older folks going to & from shopping, etc.; wonderful treat. If you want, you might take some peanuts for the birds, but not the pigeons, may still be illegal to feed them, I don't know.
After enjoying for a while, continue away from the gate - ahead is a long street lined on both sides with trees; trees are so large & close together, they block out the sky! We always visit Venice in November & this street is so beautiful with the multi-colored fall leaves. This street is also listed on my map as Garibaldi & ends at the Grand Canal - great photo op. Both sides of this street contain multi-storied residences. We discreetly wander into the residential areas & peek around. At the end of the residences on the left is a complex that has a lot of senior citizens residents; we always walk into that area also. One time an elderly lady initiated a conversation with us - even though she spoke zero English & we speak zero Italian! But that did not seem to deter her & we 'spoke' for quite a while. She was very pleasant & welcoming, as were we, and we all enjoyed our encounter.
Then on the left is the Biennial grounds (I think that is the name). If it is not blocked off, walk around there & then walk back out to the original spot. Continue on & on the left (before & on the Grand Canal water's edge) is another favorite place of ours on this walk - there is an overgrown area & if you look closely you can see an ancient statue hidden in the overgrown brush - like a historical hunt (at least we call it 'an ancient statue'!).
Upon reaching the Grand Canal water, turn left & walk along the Grand Canal. Before & at the curve, look left & up & notice the mysterious building in the trees (?luxury residence, or...?, but stunning).
Continuing you will come to a bridge - look over the left side & you will see where small Venetian boats load & unload - sometimes garbage/trash, sometimes supplies. If you are lucky like we have been, maybe you can watch some loading/unloading - new refrigerator for a lucky resident, & lots of other good stuff! Continue over the bridge & you are at a great tree filled park with benches. You can sit Grand Canal side (to your right) & enjoy the water activities/view, or sit interior & watch the locals walking to & from.
One time while we sat on a bench under the big trees, two very well dressed, proper looking, & very elderly local men were walking their happy little white FuFu dog - she was so cute as she pranced along - a real Italian beauty! A ruffian dog, without his owners, feel in love with the FuFu & would not leave her alone. The men were frantic as they & the FuFu became entangled in the lease while the ruffian dashed around them in circles. I believe the angry Italian words flung at the ruffian were not very nice, but he was not discouraged; love urged him on! But finally, the ruffian gave up & left them to their peaceful walk - it was fun for us, but we did not laugh while they were there!
Anyway, once you tear yourself away from the park, continue thru the park (water will be on your right), you will come to a land-point, enjoy the water view, & then turn left continuing to follow the water. You will come to a wide street, Viale Quattro Novembre. Turn left onto it, another wonderful tree lined street, with some beautiful residences on the right, especially the 1st one on the point. From here, you really need a map to ensure you don't miss anything. Take the correct path & you will see the entrance to the Naval base, a very lovely upscale residential street along the Rio di S. Elena, a marina packed full of sailing & other boats.
We walk the entire district, every inch that we can & we always find new & enjoyable sights. I hope you enjoy this area as much as we do, & by the way - you won't find another tourist! Have a wonderful time in Venice.
Julie
Here's the route we take - of course we consistently wander off this route, veering here & there, & then back on course again. We make this a many hour adventure. It really helps if you have a good map showing all of the streets so you don't miss any of them.
Begin with San Marco at your back & facing the Grand Canal, turn left onto the main drag & stroll along the Grand Canal, passing the Bridge of Sighs, stopping to look at the tourist shops/stalls, & of course, eating Gelato. Turn onto Via Giuseppe Garibaldi (only goes left & is not far after passing the Naval Museum); a very wide street & so wonderful for a leisurely stroll past the local shops & eateries. Explore the little alley-like streets on the left - lots of laundry hanging high above. About half way down Garibaldi on the right is a steel fence & gate. Walk thru the gate & discover this nice little park with a fountain we love (great photo op!), which is partly covered with moss. Have a seat on one of the benches & watch the local activity - women pushing baby carriages, older folks going to & from shopping, etc.; wonderful treat. If you want, you might take some peanuts for the birds, but not the pigeons, may still be illegal to feed them, I don't know.
After enjoying for a while, continue away from the gate - ahead is a long street lined on both sides with trees; trees are so large & close together, they block out the sky! We always visit Venice in November & this street is so beautiful with the multi-colored fall leaves. This street is also listed on my map as Garibaldi & ends at the Grand Canal - great photo op. Both sides of this street contain multi-storied residences. We discreetly wander into the residential areas & peek around. At the end of the residences on the left is a complex that has a lot of senior citizens residents; we always walk into that area also. One time an elderly lady initiated a conversation with us - even though she spoke zero English & we speak zero Italian! But that did not seem to deter her & we 'spoke' for quite a while. She was very pleasant & welcoming, as were we, and we all enjoyed our encounter.
Then on the left is the Biennial grounds (I think that is the name). If it is not blocked off, walk around there & then walk back out to the original spot. Continue on & on the left (before & on the Grand Canal water's edge) is another favorite place of ours on this walk - there is an overgrown area & if you look closely you can see an ancient statue hidden in the overgrown brush - like a historical hunt (at least we call it 'an ancient statue'!).
Upon reaching the Grand Canal water, turn left & walk along the Grand Canal. Before & at the curve, look left & up & notice the mysterious building in the trees (?luxury residence, or...?, but stunning).
Continuing you will come to a bridge - look over the left side & you will see where small Venetian boats load & unload - sometimes garbage/trash, sometimes supplies. If you are lucky like we have been, maybe you can watch some loading/unloading - new refrigerator for a lucky resident, & lots of other good stuff! Continue over the bridge & you are at a great tree filled park with benches. You can sit Grand Canal side (to your right) & enjoy the water activities/view, or sit interior & watch the locals walking to & from.
One time while we sat on a bench under the big trees, two very well dressed, proper looking, & very elderly local men were walking their happy little white FuFu dog - she was so cute as she pranced along - a real Italian beauty! A ruffian dog, without his owners, feel in love with the FuFu & would not leave her alone. The men were frantic as they & the FuFu became entangled in the lease while the ruffian dashed around them in circles. I believe the angry Italian words flung at the ruffian were not very nice, but he was not discouraged; love urged him on! But finally, the ruffian gave up & left them to their peaceful walk - it was fun for us, but we did not laugh while they were there!
Anyway, once you tear yourself away from the park, continue thru the park (water will be on your right), you will come to a land-point, enjoy the water view, & then turn left continuing to follow the water. You will come to a wide street, Viale Quattro Novembre. Turn left onto it, another wonderful tree lined street, with some beautiful residences on the right, especially the 1st one on the point. From here, you really need a map to ensure you don't miss anything. Take the correct path & you will see the entrance to the Naval base, a very lovely upscale residential street along the Rio di S. Elena, a marina packed full of sailing & other boats.
We walk the entire district, every inch that we can & we always find new & enjoyable sights. I hope you enjoy this area as much as we do, & by the way - you won't find another tourist! Have a wonderful time in Venice.
Julie
Feb 4th, 2010, 03:42 PM
#55
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Julie - thank you so much for your insight and expertise. I truly feel that I will get to hit the "main sights" of Venice, BUT more importantly see some of the hidden treasures.
These posts go way beyond any type of guide book....
These posts go way beyond any type of guide book....
Feb 5th, 2010, 12:09 PM
#56
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another vote for the ghetto in Venice. Ghettos in Italy were the areas where Jewish residents were sequestered (in Rome I think they were even locked in at night). My son and I took a tour that began at the Jewish museum that was very interesting. The museum itself was small but had some beautiful paintings. We are not Jewish, but the history of the Jews in Italy is fascinating and many famous Italian authors are Jewish. It is a very distinctive and historic area.
Feb 6th, 2010, 09:37 PM
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<Personally, I see the gondola thing as being a cliche. (Peter retires to bunker, in anticipation of a storm of protest from other Fodorites.)>
My husband and I had no plans to "do the gondola thing" either but a couple of gondoliers were lingering around after everyone else had packed up one evening and we found ourselves with a half-price hour-long ride. Very memorable!
My husband and I had no plans to "do the gondola thing" either but a couple of gondoliers were lingering around after everyone else had packed up one evening and we found ourselves with a half-price hour-long ride. Very memorable!
Feb 17th, 2010, 09:20 AM
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The gondola was a wonderful experience for us. We asked not to go on the Grand Canal and got a wonderful tour of some of the city's smaller, out of the way canals. Sitting in the gondola at just about water level gave us some insights to the city and the way it is constructed that we would not have otherwise realized--but you do have to be actively observant instead of just sitting back and looking up at the buildings towering above.
Feb 17th, 2010, 09:25 AM
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Just to clarigy: When traveling in "historic" areas I do like to try various means of conveyance wherever we travel just to have some semblance of experiencing what people in the past experienced. And I like staying in historic accomodations (old buildings), again to have some semblance, however slight, of what was before--though I don't go so far as chamberpots and outhouses in my accomodation selections, not that I haven't experienced those in my time as well. I am an intense history, archaeology, and cultural anthropology buff.
