caroline_edinburgh

That reminds me - castles ! Castellanese, aren't you planning to visit any of the 3 castles ?

Castellanese

Since I want to visit the Certosa di San Martino, I might as well visit Castel Sant'Elmo. If I have time, I could also visit Castel Nuovo while visiting Royal Naples, but it all depends on how much energy I have at that moment. Any recommendations on which one shouldn't be missed?

caroline_edinburgh

We only managed the Castel Nuovo so can't compare.

Waldo

Castel Nuovo isn't too thrilling, but Castel St. Elmo offers great views of Naples from all sides.

tdyls

Dang, Waldo, you beat me to the punch.

Castel Sant'Elmo offers great views of Naples from all sides. Oh, wait, you just said that

Seriously, it's on top of the Vomero hills and is probably one of the highest points in Naples. There is a spectacular view of Spaccanapoli, Santa Lucia, the Bay of Naples, and Mt. Vesuvius from CSE. It also doubles as an art museum (I saw an MC Escher exhibit there a couple of years ago). The best part is, because it's a castle with massive walls, it's nice and cool in the heat of summer.

CSE is about a 5-10 minute walk from the last (Vomero?) station on the main funicular. It leaves from a station just up Via Toledo/Via Roma from Piazza Trieste e Trento.

tdyls

When you get done peoplewatching in the Mickey-D's in Piazza Dante, walk across the piazza to Cafe Mexico, for what IMHO is the best cup of espresso in Naples. While Gambrinus may have the atmosphere, Cafe Mexico has the coffee.

And make sure you get a hot, fresh sfogliatelle from Sfogliatelle Mary in Galleria Umberto. This is non-negotiable and you will be prevented from leaving Naples until you have had at least 3 dozen.

Per person.

Per day.
;-)

Castellanese

Ok, so I've decided to stay a bit longer in Campania and this is what I have:

After a week in Lisbon, I'll take a plane to Rome and then take the train down to Naples and stay 3 nights on Procida, 3 nights on Capri, 3 nights on the Amalfi Coast (where?) and then 5 nights in Naples.

I've decided to stay in Naples at the end of the trip because, afterwards, I'll have to take the train up to Rome and then take the plane to spend one last night in Lisbon in order to leave home the following morning.

I'm not so sure about staying on the Amalfi Coast. I visited Positano as a daytrip from Capri last year and, after a couple of hours in town, my impression was: "Is that it?", so I wonder if I wasn't impressed because I did it as a daytrip or simply because Positano isn't for everybody. I'd also thought of adding an extra night on Capri, instead, and visit Ravello as a daytrip, since I've already been to Positano. This latter option will give me an extra night in Naples and not so much moving around.

My heart is set on sleeping on Procida because I've been reading "Arturo's Island" and, even though I know that books tend to romanticize a place, I'm pretty sure I'll like it.

Any thoughts?

Waldo

When you go to Castel St. Elmo, be sure to go to the very top, on the roof. It's massive, and it's like a miniature city up there. The last time I was there, I arranged to have my brother in law, Mario, wave a large flag from his balcony, about five miles from St. Elmo. I knew approximately where his house was located, and with the aid of binoculars, I saw him waving the flag. It was quite an experience. St. Elmo IS the highest point in Napoli, and the views from it are magnificent.

caroline_edinburgh

Although it doesn't have quite such a 'wow factor', I prefer Amalfi to Positano as it is more of real town. Transport links are easier too. It would be easiest to visit Ravello from Amalfi.

Castellanese

Ok, so I thought there'd be direct flights Lisbon-Naples but there aren't, so I think this is my last itinerary draft:

Rome: 1 night
Procida: 3 nights
Capri: 3 nights
Ravello: 3 nights (daytrip to Positano)
Naples: 5 nights (daytrip to Pompeii)
Lisbon: 5 nights (daytrip to Sintra)

I'm having a bit of a hard time finding inexpensive hotels in Ravello, but I'm still looking.

caroline_edinburgh

What are you planning to do on Procida for 3 days ? Will you take day trips to Ischia ? If you want stuff to do & see as opposed to just relaxing, I'd stay in Ischia & day trip to Procida. Or have you been to Ischia before ?

Ditto for Ravello, really. We stayed there 3 or 4 nights & regretted not doing it as a day trip. The only things to see are the 2 famous gardens, it's very quiet at night & we found it a bit cold in June. It's also the worst place to stay on the Amalfi Coast as regards travelling to & from other places,

We stayed at the Hotel Giordano which was quite modestly priced then & was OK; but looking at their prices now it seems more expensive - maybe it's been smartened up. But I'd much rather stay in Amalfi or Positano.

I should say that we are very lazy holidaymakers who don't do a lot, but you sound like you want to be out & about quite a bit.

thursdaysd

I haven't been yet, but I'm planning a trip to include Naples and the Amalfi Coast, and from everything I've read I agree with Carolyn that Ravello is not a good base. Great for honeymooners, or the exhausted who want to rest up, but not as a base for visiting the other sights on the coast. My first pick was Amalfi, but since I'll be there in April or May I'm now leaning to Sorrento for better transport options.

ira

Hi C,

>I'm having a bit of a hard time finding inexpensive hotels in Ravello, but I'm still looking.

I suggest staying in Amalfi, Positano or Praiano and making Ravello a daytrip.

kja

Hi, Castellanese -

As others have noted, there are some good reasons for basing in Amalfi or somewhere else along the coast, rather than Ravello, but there are also some good reasons for staying in Ravello. For one thing, it is gorgeous! In addition to the villas and their spectacular gardens, there are also a few lovely churches. And if you like to walk, there are some beautiful trails, including one to Amalfi that takes about an hour.

I stayed at the reasonably affordable Hotel Parsifal, and absolutely loved it - but it isn't for everyone. I think the reviews on tripadvisor give a good sense of what you can expect.

Hope that helps!

Castellanese

Hi again,

Well, since Procida is certainly tiny, I guess I could keep Ischia as a PLAN B for a daytrip. I decided to stay on Procida rather than Ischia because I want to stay in a non-touristy place for a change and Ischia is way bigger with lots to do. I know that there are people who also travel to Procida, but it will never be as crowded with tourists as Capri or Ischia usually are. Besides, I've really fallen for it because of the novel I'm reading and the pictures I've seen on the Internet.

Caroline, you're totally right about the out and about, so I've decided to go straight to Naples rather than staying in Rome for just one night. As for the other places, I've always appreciate a place better when I spend the night rather than visiting it as a daytrip.

As for Ravello, I guess must think about it since, in your experience, it isn't really a good place to base, although it definitely seems more alluring than Amalfi and Positano.

I've also decided to take a day off Capri since I've already been there and I just want to see "what's new".

So right now I have:

Naples 5 nights (daytrip to Pompeii)
Ravello 3 nights (daytrip to Amalfi/Positano)
Capri 2 nights
Procida 3 nights (daytrip to Ischia Ponte)
Lisbon 6 nights (daytrip to Sintra)

Thanks again for sharing your opinions!

caroline_edinburgh

Castellanese, we've stayed a week in Ischia each of the last 2 years (in June) & daytripped to Procida, and Ischia didn't seem any more crowded than Procida to me. Both are lovely, though. Which book is it you are reading ?

If you do take a daytrip to Ischia I'd suggest not just staying in Ischia Ponte but getting the bus round the island. There's a clockwise & anticlockwise service (CD & CS), both terminating in Sant'Angelo which is the most beautiful town. So you could get, say, the CD there, have lunch & a swim, get the CS back and that way see most of the island. But the castle in Ischia Ponte is worth seeing too and takes a couple of hours.

Castellanese

Well, I think that you're totally right, Caroline, so I'm going to stay on Procida for just 2 nights. I figured I'd better leave Ischia for when I have time to visit it at a slow pace. Besides, I'll arrive at Procida probably around noon, so, with 2 nights, I'll have plenty of time to stroll around the island and have some beach time.

Doing hikes wasn't on my plans when visiting the Amalfi Coast, but since my bookguide, DeAgostini, talks highly about them, I think I'd better stay more central (and hopefully less expensive) like in Amalfi. I mean, the least expensive hotel I've found, so far, in Ravello costs 120 Euros for a double room and I shouldn't pay more than 100 Euros (I'm already making an exception in Capri). However, I've found a couple of hotels in Amalfi that go well with my budget.

So, I'll stay 2 nights on Procida (instead of 3) and 4 nights on the Amalfi Coast (instead of 3) since I want to do a few hikes. Naples, Capri and Lisbon remain the same.

Thanks again.

ciaolaura

bookmarking

ciaolaura

Here is a link to a great B & B in Amalfi, with excellent rates: http://www.residencedelduca.it/eng/index.htm

The only downside is that you have to climb 100 stairs to reach the hotel, but the price is right, the hosts are wonderful and the views are amazing!

Castellanese

Thanks Laura. I checked its website and it seems to be quite a good choice and it totally fits my budget!