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Old Aug 1st, 2003, 07:22 PM
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Hotels in BCN and San Sebastian

In early Sept., we have 4 nights in BCN and 4 in the Basque region. The last night is spoken for, because we are staying near Bilbao airport to accomodate a muy early departure. Currently the reservation is at Tryp Sondika because of proximity to airport, but please yell if you think it's a bad selection. We are currently double-booked for the other nights and want to eliminate the excess asap to free up those rooms. In BCN, we have a res. at the Banys Oriental in El Born and at America Hotel in Eixemple. The Banys sounds pretty nice and I understand it's a fun area and on a pedestrian-only street, though other posters have said, while it's a pretty cool place, the walls are thin. The America sounds considerably nicer, especially because of the additional amenities, such as a pool and gym, which I'll definitely use. But, it probably comes down to location. We want to be able to walk in search of our evening diversions [food and drink]. Proximity to the sites is also key, and proximity to a park or other place to go running would also be nice. What do you all think of the respective merits? In the north, we can either spend 2 nights at the Bishops Hotel in Hondarribia [the Parador was full and the Bishops was full the 3rd night] followed by 1 night at the Abba Londres y Inglaterra in San Seb., or 1 at the Bishop and 2 at the ALyI. Or, we can stay all 3 nights in Hond. at the Jaizkibel, which allegedly is a 4-star, but I've never seen word one about it on this site. Or [take a deep breath], we can stay all 3 nights in San Seb. at the ALyI. I'm leaning towarda Thurs. night in Hond., probably at the Bishop, followed Fri. and Sat. in San Seb. at the ALyI [although there's something to be said for less checking in and out]. When we're in the North, we'll probably stop at the Gugg. on our 1st day after landing in the a.m. in Bilbao, and on one day we'll probably day trip to St. Jean de Luz. In the evening, we're gonna eat and eat. Leaning toward Zuberoa for our main event meal, but still considering the splashier places like Arzak. We also want at least some beach time, hiking and, again, being able to walk to our evening eating and drinking [except for that one splurge meal, which may be out of town]. Again, your comments on these options are much appreciated. Sorry for all this detail, and thanks for reading this far.
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 01:18 AM
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Hi Wayno,
about Arzak ... I wouldn't like to disappoint you, but I was listening to him last week in the radio, and when asked about the waiting list, he said that they are full until November. He said that with the Jazz Festival now, afterwards the Quincena Musical, and then the Film Festival ...

It's a small place, and it has become very popular during the last years with foreign tourists coming to visit the Guggenheim. If you are interested, I woukd try a weekday and maybe lunch.

Good luck, you will need it.
http://www.arzak.es/

Rgds, Cova
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 07:26 AM
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Hi Wayno-
Me again. SS and Hond are so close, that unless you really enjoy trying different hotels, I would recommend that you choose either place and stay put for three nights. The Bishops in Hond looked very nice.
We ate at Zuberoa, Mugaritz for dinner and had lunch at Arzak. We got the dinner reservation at Mugaritz at the last minute. We had the lunch reserv at Arzak for a while, but it was by no means full. We loved all three but for the $ thought that Zuberoa and Mugaritz were a little more creative and had great atmoshpere. If you want to do a lunch, consider Akellare, both food and views are stunning. If you want to take this off line, happen to give more details - [email protected]
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 08:30 AM
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we had a similar vacation a couple years ago...

we ended up staying two nights in San Sebastian @ Londres (great location, spring for bay/ocean view), and one night in Hondaribia at the Parador (neat building, ok rooms).

we ate at Zuberoa, which was disappointing. the food just wasn't memorable, though we had a nice lunch. pricey too ($180 in Aug 01, when dollar was very strong). now it's probably around $240. not worth it.

we did have an excellent dinner at Panier Fleuri (sp) in SS, a michelin one star and a terrific meal at "san sebastian" in Hondaribia. also, the restaurant at the Bilbao Guggenheim is superb. make reservations.

enjoy.

coachboy
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 06:07 PM
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wayno,
Just returned from our annual Hondarribia-S.S.-Bilbao area stay (Amy, sorry we missed you-I loved your update!).

Re your Bilbao last night:
From downtown, an early morn. airport run, as Amy says, only took 15 min. (we turned in car night before, then taxied). We stayed at the 5 star classic López de Haro last yr, but for a fresher, more hip place, if you like that style, I'd choose Amy's pick, the Starck/Schrager/W-esque 5 star Gran Domine (whimsical Mariscal interior) or the more intimate Design Hotel Miró down the st. (checked & liked both). The Gran Domine has those great Guggen views from that private terrace and handy garage, the Miró, the highly personalized service of a small boutique place. But I read that you have a 6:45 departure; if you can stand the very early wake up, you'd have much fonder memories of your last night at 1 of the above.

In you have time for mid-day Bilbao pintxos, we found a new favorite in the Casco Viejo (Old Quarter) in the "7 calles" area:
"Bar Berton" on Jardines 11, which has great service and tables, plus our other former fav. "Bar Gatz", close by on Santa María. Plus the classics on the Plaza Nueva there, "Víctor Montes" and "Bar Bilbao". We visit them after a trip to the 3 story Mercado de la Ribera (next to the river), which is a visual feast I highly recommend for foodies. Downstairs, the fishmongers, 1st floor the meats/cheeses, and upstairs, fruits/vegs. Larger, less polished maybe than S.S.'s "Mercado de la Brecha" in the Old Quarter, but we love looking in both.
Or in Bilbao's modern quarter, 2 great spots on pedestrian Diputación, right off the Gran Vía:
"La Vinya del Ensanche" for Jabugo ham and "El Globo". On the other side of the Gran Via, same street, you have "Lekeitio", famed for its 3-tiered tortillas (omelettes) and the Alhambra-like, classic "Café Iruña" facing pretty Jardines de Albia.

Re Hondarribia vs. S.S.:
Agree with Amy. I'd choose S.S. as your 3 night base. We always spend a week in H. but do miss overnights in S.S so we can take more advantage of S.S.'s cultural life (the late July jazz fest.) & lively evening paseo. This distance is short, they're only 15-20 min. by car, but we still would rather not drive back. In future, 3 nights in S.S. after H & before our final Bilbao stay.
I'd drive to Hondarribia, then maybe on to pretty St. Jean-de-Luz across the border via the scenic cornish, D 912 then return to S.S. via the fast A68/A8.
(Unless you do 2 nights in H., you won't have time for the gorgeous inland loop from St. Jean-de-Luz to Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles to Pamplona to H. It's absolutely wonderful but would take all day to do it justice). Whether it be S.S. or H. depends on whether you prefer most of your time in the country or city. S.S. is one of Spain's most beautiful, elegant, sophisticated cities, in my book.

And of your hotels (I've recently seen all), I'd choose the Abba. As Coach Boy says, can't beat its dead-center, bay location on La Concha with everything easily walkable. Updated public rooms in Victorian style, lively downstairs bar. We revisited the Obispo (Bishop) because Fodor friends had enjoyed it after their stay at the Abba. It's still a friendly, nice-for-the-price, less lavish alternative to the Parador (on an open square, brighter, less antique-ish than the other mansion, the Pampinot), but not ultimately as memorable as a bay view room at the Abba, to me. The hip, designer-ish Jaizkibel is an interesting new option (didn't see rms), but its eastern, residential location wouldn't be as convenient for walking, and parking in La Marina and Old Quarter of H. is at an absolute premium, especially on wkds. when the French come over in droves.

If you choose H. and day trip to S.S., take the N1 thru industrial, ugly Errentería/Pasai, but when the N1 goes off with the E70/A8, don't follow but instead follow the small GREEN sign, the secondary road saying GROS, which takes you up past Arzak on your right, then straight down to the city, past Zurriola surfer's beach and to the KURSAAL center, where you'll find a handy underground garage. Then just cross the bridge and right to the Old Quarter
or straight ahead to La Concha.

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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 06:39 PM
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About S.S. city dining:
Don't give up on Arzak-there will be cancellations (we once had to cancel twice in a week). You'll more easily find a table going on a mid-week night, when they're less busy. Ditto to Akelarre (splendid views at lunch-also the favorite of the owner of Tenedor Tours in S.S. who knows all these kitchens & chefs intimately).
For fine, very Basque traditional, classic dining on the 2nd floor of an elegant townhouse with great, personal attention from the sweet owner chef (he gave us an autographed picture plus a Jaguar Gourmet guide!), we also loved Casa Nicolasa on Aldamar in the Old Quarter-above their cooking school, El Txoko del Gourmet. Very old style, classy.

For country dining, we've done M. Berasategui, Zuberoa and Mugartiz. M.B. may not be in residence, as he's busy tending to his ever-expanding empire. To try a M.B. protegé who's getting rave reviews I'd go to "Kukularri" in the NH Aránzazu Hotel, an insider tip from the Tenedor Tours owner, Gabriella.

For your main meal "event", I'd choose Mugaritz without hesitation (but chef gave us a personal tour of kitchen/lab, so this made our visit very special). Highly inventive, utterly original, like nothing we'd ever experienced, a sheer heaven for foodies. Plus flawless service from the black-suited wait staff who seem effortlessly to glide across the room carrying their bamboo trays, a superb sommelier, friendly, warm and welcoming maitre, rather Asian, minimalist decor, huge space btwn tables, utterly relaxing (lots of zen) and the best tasting menu value for our euros. But either go by taxi or print out the very detailed driving directions from mugaritz.com, as it's hell to find-an expensively reconverted "farmhouse" on a hill (they kept the old attached farmstead but everything else is brand new, state-of-the-art), but it's not on the main Errentería-Astigarraga road. This 32 yr. old cerebral whiz kid was proclaimed "best young chef in Europe" in a spread in G. Millau, Gourmet just did an article on him, and NYC's Daniel Bouley was just there with his chef de cuisine to learn. He's one to watch! But go only if you have the time-it's a 2 1/2+ hr. experience with a degustation menu of 10 small dishes plus amuse bouche, but you don't leave feeling uncomfortably full, just very content. More traditional a la carte menu, available, but that would be missing the chef's genius.

We dined at Zuberoa 2 nights later and it paled in comparison (but partly because a tasting menu ordered for us by a chef friend of the family didn't materialize, due to miscommunication). We found the a la carte menu far less original, service more casual, more humble, truer to its farmhouse, "asador" origins, down to the china. We'd give M. the 2 Mich stars and Z. just 1. But beautiful outdoor terrace, huge, hefty wine list.

At Arzak, Elena, daughter & current chef, and dad came out to greet, mom took our order. But the crowd was more intl. with fewer locals than Z. and M. We found it a highly polished 3 M. star, Relais Chateaux machine with finely tuned but fast service (can be out in 1 1/2 hrs), and Elena's degustation menu interesting but smaller portions and more deconstructed presentations than before, maybe due to her time spent at El Bulli (?)
Whichever you choose, you'll dine very well and no jacket required.

For pintxos (tapas) in S.S.:
Please don't miss "La Cuchara de San Telmo" in the Old Quarter, at very end of an alley, on right corner, next to the church, off Calle 31 de agosto (look for outside tables). It's now our fav. 2 young chefs, 1 Basque, 1 Catalán, preparing made to order, true gourmet pintxos. But for 2 more "haute cuisine in miniature" spots, go to the Gros neighborhood beyond Zurriola beach to "Aloña Berri" (Bermingham 24) and nearby "Bar Bergara" (General Arteche 8).

For pintxos in Hondarribia's La Marina quarter, we love "Gran Sol" on picturesque, ped. San Pedro (2 young guys who win pintxo competitions, but go early-it's always packed), also "Enbate" (in Jauregui hotel, kitchen open til 11:30) and "Yola Berri" across the street on Zuloaga, the main drag. For more formal dining, we enjoy 1 M. star "Alameda" below the Old Quarter entrance and Coach Boy's more atmospheric store front, "Sebastián" on medieval Calle Mayor below the Parador, but the latter chef is Andalusian rather than Basque.

The fine dining possibilites are endless in food obsessed Euskadi!
Happy eating!
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 06:42 PM
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me again, one last time, I promise!

About your BCN hotel question:
The America, hands down, if within your budget. I saw B.O. when it opened in '02 but didn't get to see rooms, but I did get a nice tour of the America on that same trip while staying at the H10 Gravina. I had to stop because it took my eye as a nifty new place I'd like to try.
Difference lies in both location and # of amenities, as you know. The B.O. is on a safe, well traversed street in the gentrifying, hip, trendy, cutting edge El Borne district of the Ciutat Vella, near the Picasso Museum. If you're young and on a tight budget, it seems to deliver designer-like style for a low price. The America has a great location in the very fashionable, upscale, already gentrified Eixample district noted for its elegant Modernista architecture and great boutique shopping on the Passeig de Gracia, just a few blocks east. But you can still walk to the Barri Gotic, Placa de Catalunya and Ramblas from there. Think NYC's Upper East side versus Soho.
Also the America has more in-room goodies and (apparently) better soundproofing. It's not a "budget boutique" work in progress but instead a moderate to upper level boutique property designed for business types as well as tourists since the superior rooms offer a fax machine, internet TV, stereo, exercise bike, scale, coffee maker, slippers/robes, daily press. Their web site at www.hotel-america-barcelona.com explains the difference btwn standard & superior.
Plus there's great, affordable but stylish dining in the immediate neighborhood at "Paco Meralgo Alta Taberna" (corner of Córsega/Muntaner),
"L'Olivé" (on Balmes/Consell de Cent, same owners) ,
"El Trobador" (at Enric Granados/Diagonal),
"El Principal" (Provenca 286, down from hotel) ,
"La Tramoia" (a Carolyn reco on Rambla de Catalunya),
"Tenorio Brasseria" on the P de G
"Cervecería Catalana" for terrific tapas (and long hrs.) on the corner of R de C and Mallorca (Jean's great tip).
Plenty of options for your evening diversions.
Hope this helps you to decide.
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 07:26 PM
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This is just to say thanks so much for all your wonderful input. Your ultimate recommendations coincided with my instincts, and we're going w/ 3 nights at the Abba Londres and a final night at Gran Domine. And 4 nights at Hotel America in BCN. I'll definitely follow as many of your many dining recommendations as my constitution will allow. [Planning on lots of running between meals.] I wish we could stay longer, but can't inflict 2 toddlers on a babysitter for more than 9 nights. Thanks again.
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 07:30 PM
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wayno,
Hope you have a wonderful time in these 2 vibrant (and gastronomically exciting) cities! Wish we could travel the roads of the Basque Country in Sept. Sigh...
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 07:41 PM
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Just reading all of Maribel's recommendations for no. Spain, especially for San Sebastián, made me jealous. I was there last September and the marvelous memories linger on. The pinxos alone were incredible! Savor your time in Spain!
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Old Aug 5th, 2003, 07:44 PM
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Just a wish for a wonderful time in one of my favorite areas. .....and are u allowed to go to Bilbao and NOT see the Guggenheim? do try ...it is apart from any place i have ever been...I could look at it for hours.
In S.S. look for a piece of local sculpture Called Comb Of the Winds..on a beach walk to the left above on the Playa..it is a beautiful view of the sea....Also Guggenheim used to have a great restaurant with a chef from S.S.
enjoy!
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