SloJan

This weekend, we visited the Goriska Brda region of Slovenia. It was amazing. Goriska Brda is in western Slovenia, literally bordering Italy. If you cross the border, you are in the Friuli region, another region famous for its wines, but very different in terrain.

If you like wine and exploring a country's cuisine, I highly recommend a visit when you are in the area. You could do it uin one day,perhaps as you are traveling from Venice to Ljubljana! There are many very small wineries for tastings and then, you stay either at the winery or at a tourist farm for the night. They treat you to a slow food meal (about 4 hours) with cuisine that is typical to the area each course accompanied by a specific wine. It is a wonderful way to become acquainted with Slovene cookery and wine.

One of the unique varietals here is Rebula. From Epicurious "White wine grape, whose full name is Ribolla Gialla, that is grown in Italy's friuli-venezia giulia in Slovenia, where it's known as Rebula, and in Greece, where it's called Robola. Ribolla's been grown in Friuli since the twelfth century and is thought to be a native of this region, although there's some speculation that it has Greek origins. This variety produces dry, crisp, citrus-flavored wines that are medium-bodied and deeply colored. Ribolla will stand some aging, during which time it becomes richer and softer. There's also a red version, Ribolla Nera, more popularly known as schioppettino".

We stayed at a beautiful, little 'tourist farm' that produced their own wine. Belica (pronounced Beleetsa) was built about 3 months ago. It is a traditional stype Goriska Brda house. Large, comfortable rooms with panel and beam ceilings. We were a family of four and the room suited us beautifully. The hotel is perched on a hill with beautiful vistas. It is located in Medana and the phone/fax number is 386 5 30 42 104. English is spoken and it is a family business. They also hosted a very gracious dinner for us.

So, if you are coming to Slovenia and want to really explore the country, this is an area that you should not miss!

Cheers,
Jan

Riffic

SloJan,

this is a great post. I have never tried Slovenian wine. Can you describe it? Is it worth stocking at home? I would expect it to be rather inexpensive, since it's not too famous...is this true?

I'd also be interested in any websites with info on these one-stop wine, dine and sleep establishments.

SloJan

Some of the wines are inexpensive and some aren't, though you rarely see the levels that you would find in France or the US. Here is a listing of the Brda wines:
Typical brda white wines:
- Rebula
- Furlanski tokaj--This is not like the Hungarian Tokaj. Rather, it is a nice, light white. It was served with the mushroom risotto and complemented it well.
- Chardonnay
- Beli pinot (Pinot Blanc)
- Sivi pinot (Pinot Gris)
- Sauvignon
- Cuvee, on the basis of rebula--very nice and young


Special brda white wines:
- Pikolit
- Verduc
- Wines from dried grapes

Typical brda red wines:
- Merlot
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- Cabernet Franc
- Modri pinot (Pinot Noir)
- Cuvee, on the basis of merlot

Here is a website discussing many of these wines with prices. Klinec is one of my favorites and they also host the wine and dine thing. Their wines are unique b/c they age their wines in cherry barrels. This gives their red wines a very unique flavor. I especially like their Quela wine which is a red blend.

I believe that this area will see a huge surge in tourism in the future. Currently, the vast majority of visitors are from Slovenia and Italy (border area). The Slovene Tourist Board is starting to market effectively and they are enhancing their websites.

This website describes the different regions of wine growing in Slovenia. http://www.matkurja.com/projects/win...ons/index.html Besides Rebula, we also have a unique grape called Teran. It is a heavy red wine but with a very unique flavor.

The Tourist Farms are listed in the www.slovenia-tourism.si which has a wealth of information. It is not complete, though. Here is another listing on Matkurja.com: http://www.matkurja.com/eng/resource...tourist/farms/

Usually, the tourist farms are gracious and very reasonable. Our room at Belica for a family of 4 was only 60 Euros. The quality was extremely high.

Hope this helps...(and piques your interest!)
Cheers,
Jan

LLC

SloJan- this area sounds fascinating. Was the tourist farm where yu stayed listed on any website?

SloJan

I just typed a long reply and lost it!

No, Belica is not listed on any websites yet. I guess it is still too new. Many tourist farms are listed on www.slovenia-tourism.si though. This is a newish website that has some in-depth information on Slovenia. Belica is located in Medana and the tel/fax number is 386 5 30 42 104. We had dinner there and while is was very graciously served (believe me, they were patient with ourloud, noisy group!) the food was only OK. I would recommend that you cross the street to Kristancic or Klinec wineries and eat there. Klinec produces some of my favorite wines and their food is very good. Their phone number is 386 5 30 45 092 and their email address is [email protected]. Kristancic is owned by Mirko and Ales Kristancic who also owns Movia. Movia's number is 386 5 39 59 510 and their website is www.movia.si. Movia is Slovenia's most famous wine producers and one of the few that is regularly exported. They also own vineyards in the Friuli. Kristancic ha a restaurant and rooms, as well.

The area just finished it "Days of Wine and Poetry' festival andis gearing up for October Harvest festivals.

It is so beautiful, think a very green Tuscany as far as terrain goes. Goriska Brda is only 1 hour North of Trieste, too! The prevalent car plates are Italian and Slovene. It is truly undiscovered.
Cheers,
Jan

LLC

SloJan - I think this area has been discovered, at least Belica where you stayed for 60 euros for 4 people. Now it is 140 euros and they now have a website! Do you have any more to add about this area and additional places to stay or to eat?

SloJan

HI,
I checked the website. The room we stayed in was M'Rikana and it is now 80 Euros/night. 2 of our 4 were children so were free. Still a good deal. There are some other good restaurants around there. One closer to Pod Nanos is Zemono. I will have to dig around for the other one which is on the border with Italy.

Just over the ''hills'', going East is the Soca River Valley and they have a fabulous restaurant at Nebesa (which means Heaven). The chef is young and innovative and trained in Italy. He is Slovene and only 22 years old...but apparently, a huge talent. The hotel Nebesa is spendy but there is another one in the area which is reasonable and charming. Website is http://www.nebesa.si/ang/nebesa.html

I will have to dig out the name of the other hotel later.
Cheers,
Jan

SloJan

The name of the other hotel is Hisa Franko. Again, it has one of the best restaurants in Slovenia.

Another option to wine and dine at in the Goriska Brda is the Dobrova Restaurant Castle. It is slow food in that each course is paired with a specific wine (and there are at least 6 courses...) for a wine tasting. We got a short, personable lecture on the wine industry in Slovenia and then went on to taste some very delicious wines, from small wineries. You won't find these wines in most restaurants in the city. This is a wine coop so they only represent the small ones.

Details are Grajska cesta 10
5212 Dobrovo
Phone:
++386 5 395 95 06,

Willy123

Yes we ate at Hisa Franko, the food is wonderful!

SloJan

oops, wanted to correct one of my other posts. While Nebesa is a very nice hotel, the restaurant I was describing was at Hisa Franka. Sorry, everyone!

We ate at Hisa Franka in mid April and it surpassed all expectations. The rooms are about 90 Euros/night. Unfortunately, they were booked while we were there and we stayed in Kobarid at Hotel Hvala. It was 150 Euros for a family of 4 and was completely average.

We drove up to Nebesa. It is a beautiful location that is very out of the way. People with children are not encouraged unless they are several families and booking the majority of the rooms. It is a serene, peaceful getaway. For the $$, I would prefer Hisa Franka though...esp. if you enoy sampling the local wines.