Maribel,

I'm off to Madrid for 4 nights at the end of June and would love some information about day excursions to Toledo and Segovia. Which tour company do you recommend? Do you know if any allow free time in Toledo? Also, what's the best Madrid restaurant for PAELLA? It's ok if a bit touristy as I will be with my parents who don't prefer to dine at 10:00p.m. Is El Rastro ony on Sunday? If you are ever in need of any travel tips for London, contact me as I'm an American living here. Thanks so much in advance!!

stephanie,
You can do Toledo and Segovia on your own via public transport and a good guide book or take an organized bus tour thru Trapsatur/Gray Line, Julia or Pullman-they're virtualy the same-booked thru your hotel. The full day Toledo (8 1/2 hrs.) costs 59 euros, including admission fees and lunch. There's considerable wasted time with lunch and obligatory souvenir shop stop, do I'd suggest taking the half day tour (39 euros) and then off on your own, returning to Madrid via train, to give you more independent sightseeing time. In May, June, July, the city gov't runs several guided walking tours of the city. Check at the Municipal tourist office within the walled city as you exit the cathedral on Plaza del Consistorio, next to the Ayuntamiento (town hall). You might even want to take the little tourist tram that goes around the city to save some shoe leather and get your bearings or see what you've missed.
To travel to/fro Toledo on your own, it's best by Regional Express train departing Madrid's Atocha station. The neo Mudejar architecture of the Toledo Renfe station makes it a tourist sight of its own. You should taxi or take bus 5 or 6 to the Toledo train station-long walk from Plaza del Zocodover, the central square of the walled city.
www.renfe.es
One very important note-I wouldn't go to Toledo on Sunday, June 19, as it's this year's date for their most important religious celebration, Corpus Christi. The magnificent processions are well known throughout Spain, and the town will be extremely crowded with many monuments closed in the a.m. Can't see the cathedral until 2:30.

The full day organized bus tours to Segovia also include Avila (10 hrs) and cost 53 euros without lunch (skip the lunch and go off on your own).
On your own you can reach Segovia best by La Sepulvedana bus from Paseo de la Florida #11, next to the Hotel Florida Norte (metro: Principe Pio, grey circular line #6) Express bus service with departures almost every 30 min. during the week (a few departures have 3 intermediate stops). Trip takes 1 hr. 15 min. I take the express at 9 (daily) or 9:30 a.m. (not on Sun.) There's also a daily 10 a.m. express. Last departure from Segovia at 8:45, (Sun. at 10:30). From the bus station in Segovia on Paseo Ezequiel González, walk down to corner and take a left onto Avenida Fernández Larreda, past Kitius, a computer store, and continue on, and it becomes a porticoed, pedestrian only street. A pleasant, easy 10 min. stroll to the Aqueduct and tourist office. No need for taxi.

My father-in-law used to insist that the BEST place for rice dishes is Casa de Valencia on pretty Pintor Rosales 58, across from the Parque del Oeste, north of the Palacio Real. It's a classic, upstairs dining room filled with well-heeled locals of a certain age. Closed Sun. Visitors really enjoy La Barraca behind the Gran Via on Calle Reina 29. It's prettily decorated with ceramics and bric-a-brac, like a Valencian country home and has 16 different rice dishes, including a vegetarian paella, they serve pitchers of sangria and lemon vodka sorbet for dessert. I've seen plenty of locals here at mid-day, but it's mostly tourists at night and on Sun. George Clooney dined here recently. For dinner with your parents, this would be a good choice, as it opens at 8:30, but reserve in advance. There's a set price menu for 22 euros, maybe just at lunch.
An alternative just steps away is La Paella de la Reina, lacking in decor but less expensive. Opens at 8.

The Rastro is only on Sun. mornings, and not what it used to be-now mostly junk and lots of "hippy" clothing, but it's still a scene. If you go, do so early before the 11-noon crush, and watch your wallet very, very carefully!

Maribel,

Thanks so much for the invaluable information! Can't wait to get to Espana!

Stefanie

Hi, as usual there is nothing to add and a lot to learn from Maribel. I only wish to insist that you do the visits on your own.
The organized tours waist a lot of time as Maribel says in visits to sourvernir shops, lunch and also
picking up people in differents hotels. It is very simple to get to either city on public transportation....
much, much cheaper and much better.... Buena suerte.

I don't know whether this will affect you Stefanie but Toledo is extremely hilly and it can be quite knackering just walking around. I took avantage of a 'dotto train' tour of the city which left from the main square. It takes you right outside the boundaries of the city and you get some fantastic views of Toledo. However, the contraption I travelled in had absolutely no suspension whatsoever so it was a bumpy ride. Toledo is a marvel and you can learn a lot about Spanish history just be wandering through the town.

Hola to LolaLasagne and Maribel,

Thanks again for your VERY helpful information. I will be sure to wear my most comfortable walking shoes in Toledo! MARIBEL- Please email me your Madrid, Toledo and Segovia files. Thanks!!! email: [email protected]