Hello all, my husband and I are planning a driving trip to France this fall, likely the last week of October and the first week of November. We plan to fly into Nice, spend a few days there, then drive to Provence and spend some time there exploring by car, then drive on to Burgundy for a few days there, ending by dropping of the car and then spending the end of our trip in Paris. I am having a hard time getting a handle on the Provence portion of our trip and would love your thoughts and suggestions. Here is some hopefully helpful additional information. We do not want to explore the cities in Provence on this trip. We want to focus on the scenery, villages, food and wine. We want to explore away from the coast on this trip. We have three or four nights to spend in the region. We are happy to move location every night, as we will be based in one place for longer periods of time at other points on our trip. We are also happy to find one base and stay there if we find the right place. Here is how we envision the days - get an early start to take advantage of the morning light and fewer people (though in late October maybe there will be fewer crowds anyway?), explore for a few hours, stop for a lovely long lunch somewhere, returning to our lodgings well before dark in time for a rest and then dinner. We would like to stay each night either in a village with a walkable good dinner option or in an inn or hotel that has a restaurant. We don't want to be driving on narrow, twisty, unfamiliar roads after a glass or two of wine at night. Would it make sense to stop for one night in the Var on our way from Nice, then move on to the Luberon for a couple of nights, and then spent a night in the area around Mont Ventoux before we move north through the Rhone Valley on our way to Burgundy, for example? Thank you in advance for your thoughts! I am feeling overwhelmed by all of the options!
If you want to escape the coastal crowds and find the "real" scenery, food, and wine, I highly recommend looking at Northern Provence, specifically around Dieulefit. A friend of mine lives there and I always enjoy the area.
This area is a hidden gem: it’s greener, more authentic, and much less frequented than the south. You’ll find stunning villages like Nyons (famous for its olives) and Grignan (with its incredible Renaissance castle). On my last trip, I stayed at "Mas 1850" (www.mas1850.com/en) - a truly magnificent, secluded estate that perfectly captures the soul of the region. While places like that offer total serenity (you'll need a car for dinner, as nothing is within walking distance), the surrounding countryside is packed with excellent local bistros and vineyards that offer a much more intimate experience than the usual tourist tracks.
This area is a hidden gem: it’s greener, more authentic, and much less frequented than the south. You’ll find stunning villages like Nyons (famous for its olives) and Grignan (with its incredible Renaissance castle). On my last trip, I stayed at "Mas 1850" (www.mas1850.com/en) - a truly magnificent, secluded estate that perfectly captures the soul of the region. While places like that offer total serenity (you'll need a car for dinner, as nothing is within walking distance), the surrounding countryside is packed with excellent local bistros and vineyards that offer a much more intimate experience than the usual tourist tracks.
It's hard to go wrong traipsing among the villages of Provence. The more days you can devote to this the better. If you can steal away a day from Nice, you will be richly rewarded. You are right to stay out of the cities, as lovely as they are. And you are right about moving on. Using any location as a base will burden you with backtracking every single day.
There's an almost unlimited number of places you can go. My best advice is to leave room for stumbling across places that are on nobody's list.
Just so you know, if you start from Nice, you are already in Provence. For purposes of tourism promotion, the Cote d'Azur gets its own heading, but it is indeed one in the same.
My first trip, I went to make a pilgrimage to Roussillon, though hardly a religious one. Like many before me, I went to follow in the footsteps of Laurence Wylie's "Village in the Vaucluse." If you are a reader, it is a must.
There's an almost unlimited number of places you can go. My best advice is to leave room for stumbling across places that are on nobody's list.
Just so you know, if you start from Nice, you are already in Provence. For purposes of tourism promotion, the Cote d'Azur gets its own heading, but it is indeed one in the same.
My first trip, I went to make a pilgrimage to Roussillon, though hardly a religious one. Like many before me, I went to follow in the footsteps of Laurence Wylie's "Village in the Vaucluse." If you are a reader, it is a must.
I don't have any specific recommendations for you (sorry), but you might find some useful information in my trip report. My plans were city-centered, though I stopped in a number of smaller places and dined exceptionally well. 
A stellar month in southeastern France
A stellar month in southeastern France
These pictures, most of them geo-tagged, could give you some ideas:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsjrfsgek
The weekly market in Apt is less tourist oriented than the markets in smaller tourist destination towns.
https://flic.kr/s/aHsjrfsgek
The weekly market in Apt is less tourist oriented than the markets in smaller tourist destination towns.
I'd encourage you to go thru the very detailed Provence driving itinerary of Stu Dudley (former Fodorite and invaluable contributor to these forums). All his dox are collated here for easy reference.
All Stu Dudley docs in one place
All Stu Dudley docs in one place
Thank you, Moountain Tom, for this recommendation. I have had my eye on that area and will look into it more closely!
Thank you, shelemm, for this advice! I agree - I.m sure wherever we go in Provence we will be wowed. I would love to know if folks here have stayed anywhere that they particularly loved or don't recommend.
Kia, thank you for your trip report! I love reading people's trip reports!
Michael, thank you for your pictures. I can't wait to experience this region in person!
ANUJ, I have StuDudley's document printed out and have used it to get to this point. I have benefited from his travel advice many times in the past and miss him! What a generous gift he gave over all of those years of his thoughts and advice, and of course these documents that he so willingly shared.
Thank you, shelemm, for this advice! I agree - I.m sure wherever we go in Provence we will be wowed. I would love to know if folks here have stayed anywhere that they particularly loved or don't recommend.
Kia, thank you for your trip report! I love reading people's trip reports!
Michael, thank you for your pictures. I can't wait to experience this region in person!
ANUJ, I have StuDudley's document printed out and have used it to get to this point. I have benefited from his travel advice many times in the past and miss him! What a generous gift he gave over all of those years of his thoughts and advice, and of course these documents that he so willingly shared.
OP PG--what superb advice from all above! I see your 'away from the coast' preference but given that we're now snowbirding in Antibes donc je suis dans un l'Antibois frame of mind. Some purely subjective opinions below...
Antibes: don't overlook it. A nice balance of old/new with fantastic eating options self-catering and otherwise. Appealing daytrips, ranging from dolled-up touristy to more genuine.
Elsewhere: Aix? Uzes? St. Agnes?
As for Burgundy, one might consider basing in Meursault, which is almost too quiet. But...its proximity to easy sunrise hiking/cycling just north (Monthelie, Auxey-Duresses, *Pommard) and south (Puligny-Montrachet) will take the enthralled visitor past some of the planet's most compelling vineyard scenery. Orches and Semur-en-Auxois would also be within reach.
Lourmarin has a killer weekly market, right up there with the best.
Bon chance!
I am done. The roosters, church bells and mourning doves
Antibes: don't overlook it. A nice balance of old/new with fantastic eating options self-catering and otherwise. Appealing daytrips, ranging from dolled-up touristy to more genuine.
Elsewhere: Aix? Uzes? St. Agnes?
As for Burgundy, one might consider basing in Meursault, which is almost too quiet. But...its proximity to easy sunrise hiking/cycling just north (Monthelie, Auxey-Duresses, *Pommard) and south (Puligny-Montrachet) will take the enthralled visitor past some of the planet's most compelling vineyard scenery. Orches and Semur-en-Auxois would also be within reach.
Lourmarin has a killer weekly market, right up there with the best.
Bon chance!
I am done. The roosters, church bells and mourning doves
Your outline sounds great. May I suggest three stops that meet your requirements? there should be good lodging as well as a choice of restaurants in these modest-sized towns.
Cotignac in the Var
Apt in the Luberon - since there is a lot to explore in the area, this could be your two night stay
Pernes les Fontaines within reach of Mont Ventoux and the southern Rhone wine villages
if you wish to stop in the Drome as Mountain Tom suggests, it’s undeniably pretty. Nyons, Vaison-La-Romaine?
Market days in the Luberon
https://www.luberon-apt.fr/marches-du-luberon
If timing your arrival for Friday night, you’d wake up in Apt to a very lively market on Saturday. There’s a smaller one on Tuesdays. You could also check that list to see if there is another market whose timing would work.
The clocks change on Sunday October 25. Before then, sunrise will be approximately 8 am and sunset 6:30 pm. From Sunday onwards, you’re looking at sunrise 7:15 ish and sunset 5:30ish. I endorse your plan not to drive after dark on some of those roads.
You didn’t ask, but my favourite stopover between Provence and Burgundy was Tain-l’Hermitage/Tournon in the northern Rhone wine area.
Cotignac in the Var
Apt in the Luberon - since there is a lot to explore in the area, this could be your two night stay
Pernes les Fontaines within reach of Mont Ventoux and the southern Rhone wine villages
if you wish to stop in the Drome as Mountain Tom suggests, it’s undeniably pretty. Nyons, Vaison-La-Romaine?
Market days in the Luberon
https://www.luberon-apt.fr/marches-du-luberon
If timing your arrival for Friday night, you’d wake up in Apt to a very lively market on Saturday. There’s a smaller one on Tuesdays. You could also check that list to see if there is another market whose timing would work.
The clocks change on Sunday October 25. Before then, sunrise will be approximately 8 am and sunset 6:30 pm. From Sunday onwards, you’re looking at sunrise 7:15 ish and sunset 5:30ish. I endorse your plan not to drive after dark on some of those roads.
You didn’t ask, but my favourite stopover between Provence and Burgundy was Tain-l’Hermitage/Tournon in the northern Rhone wine area.
Thank you, everyone!
MJS, St Remy does indeed look lovely, but I think too far west for what we are most interested in doing/seeing.
Zebec, thank you for the encouragement to visit Antibes, but we will leave the coast for another trip, perhaps including Cassis, the Calanques, and Marseille! Aix is on my list, but we may just visit for a day. Or we may leave it for the next trip. Uzes is too far west, I think. The only Sainte Agnes this is coming up for me on Google Maps in the south of France is east of Nice? Wonderful advice about Burgundy - I do love the idea of sunrise hiking/cycling! Meursault is on my list as a Burgundian base - would it be too quiet by the end of October/beginning of November?
FTOttowa, first, thank you for the concrete information about the time change - very helpful, and confirms our desire to be safely "home" and within walking distance to dinner early! Your suggested stops are spot on. Cotignac was on my list - do you have any lodging recommendations there, by any chance?
You mention Apt - I have been looking at a couple of options nearby, in Sant-Saturnin-lès-Apt. It is described as a year-round village, and one with fewer tourists, though again that may not be a problem at the time of year we are going to be there! Have you any experience with this village?
And Pernes-les-fountaines was also on my list!
As for the stop on the way to Burgundy, I have already booked a room in Tournon for that night!
Thank you, again, everyone, for these wonderful suggestions. If anyone has specific lodging recommendations, either in a village or with a restaurant/bistro attached, and that will still be open in October, I would very much welcome them!
MJS, St Remy does indeed look lovely, but I think too far west for what we are most interested in doing/seeing.
Zebec, thank you for the encouragement to visit Antibes, but we will leave the coast for another trip, perhaps including Cassis, the Calanques, and Marseille! Aix is on my list, but we may just visit for a day. Or we may leave it for the next trip. Uzes is too far west, I think. The only Sainte Agnes this is coming up for me on Google Maps in the south of France is east of Nice? Wonderful advice about Burgundy - I do love the idea of sunrise hiking/cycling! Meursault is on my list as a Burgundian base - would it be too quiet by the end of October/beginning of November?
FTOttowa, first, thank you for the concrete information about the time change - very helpful, and confirms our desire to be safely "home" and within walking distance to dinner early! Your suggested stops are spot on. Cotignac was on my list - do you have any lodging recommendations there, by any chance?
You mention Apt - I have been looking at a couple of options nearby, in Sant-Saturnin-lès-Apt. It is described as a year-round village, and one with fewer tourists, though again that may not be a problem at the time of year we are going to be there! Have you any experience with this village?
And Pernes-les-fountaines was also on my list!
As for the stop on the way to Burgundy, I have already booked a room in Tournon for that night!
Thank you, again, everyone, for these wonderful suggestions. If anyone has specific lodging recommendations, either in a village or with a restaurant/bistro attached, and that will still be open in October, I would very much welcome them!
1. Apt was a quick market stop for us. It was an extensive produce and crafts market and an attractive town that clearly had food and lodging options. On my list to return One Of These Days.
2. Cotignac was lovingly described by a poster yeshekathy on TA forum. It has gone on my OOTD list also. Haven’t found a clue as to where they stayed.
3. We have adored Auberge la Camarette outside Pernes les Fontaines, but they are not doing evening meals any more and I think it would be a 20-30 minute walk back into town.
4. Le Cerisier in Tournon served a fabulous meal. Mangevins on the Tain l’Hermitage side was one where we were too late to reserve.
2. Cotignac was lovingly described by a poster yeshekathy on TA forum. It has gone on my OOTD list also. Haven’t found a clue as to where they stayed.
3. We have adored Auberge la Camarette outside Pernes les Fontaines, but they are not doing evening meals any more and I think it would be a 20-30 minute walk back into town.
4. Le Cerisier in Tournon served a fabulous meal. Mangevins on the Tain l’Hermitage side was one where we were too late to reserve.
PG, you ask whether sleepy Meursault would be too quiet then. Not really--that was exactly when we went and the autumnal vibe was perfect.
Btw, for fans of dry white wine, Puligny-Montrachet is the Holy Land. A cold lunch tasting at Domaine LeFlaive there would make a superb terminus to your cycling/hiking. Note also that very nearby that domaine is a VG aire de pique-nique, almost as good as the one just outside Beaune.
We also have a TR about that area (wizout fotoz).
And I agree with FT about Apt. A VG base.
I am done. The beret and the cork collection
Btw, for fans of dry white wine, Puligny-Montrachet is the Holy Land. A cold lunch tasting at Domaine LeFlaive there would make a superb terminus to your cycling/hiking. Note also that very nearby that domaine is a VG aire de pique-nique, almost as good as the one just outside Beaune.
We also have a TR about that area (wizout fotoz).
And I agree with FT about Apt. A VG base.
I am done. The beret and the cork collection
