Help with Italy itinerary (yes, another one of these), thanks!
Oct 3rd, 2014, 01:18 PM
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Help with Italy itinerary (yes, another one of these), thanks!
Hello Fodorites! We are planning a trip to Italy in March, 2015. We went to Venice, Val d'Orcia (San Quirico D'Orcia) and Rome on our first trip (2011). Stu Dudley, your Val D'Orcia guide was our guide as well, so thanks for that!
This time, we'd like to take in Florence, some additional Italian countryside, and then end in Rome.
I need help figuring out how to spend our time. We'd like to fly into Florence, stay there X days, then pick up a rental car (we could go to the airport for this, or take a train to somewhere else). Then spend about 4 nights exploring via car, then drop the car at a train station and train to Rome. We've already done some of the major Rome sites, so this time we could concentrate on other things, maybe an Underground Tour, or even going out to Ostia Antica.
My husband has indicated that he might like to split our "charming countryside" part of the trip into two locales. He said he got a little bored after 4 nights in one B&B last time.
So maybe:
Florence: 3 or 4 nights
Tuscany or maybe Umbria? Need help!: 4 nights, split between two lodgings.
Rome: 3 or 4 nights.
Haven't bought airline tickets yet, so exact number of days are up in the air.
Any lodging ideas appreciated. We appreciate friendly hosts over the most sumptuous quarters.
Our interests are really just to relax and enjoy ourselves, have long leisurely lunches, visit churches, town squares, a few museums, etc. We'll be back, so there is no hurry.
Grazie!
This time, we'd like to take in Florence, some additional Italian countryside, and then end in Rome.
I need help figuring out how to spend our time. We'd like to fly into Florence, stay there X days, then pick up a rental car (we could go to the airport for this, or take a train to somewhere else). Then spend about 4 nights exploring via car, then drop the car at a train station and train to Rome. We've already done some of the major Rome sites, so this time we could concentrate on other things, maybe an Underground Tour, or even going out to Ostia Antica.
My husband has indicated that he might like to split our "charming countryside" part of the trip into two locales. He said he got a little bored after 4 nights in one B&B last time.
So maybe:
Florence: 3 or 4 nights
Tuscany or maybe Umbria? Need help!: 4 nights, split between two lodgings.
Rome: 3 or 4 nights.
Haven't bought airline tickets yet, so exact number of days are up in the air.
Any lodging ideas appreciated. We appreciate friendly hosts over the most sumptuous quarters.
Our interests are really just to relax and enjoy ourselves, have long leisurely lunches, visit churches, town squares, a few museums, etc. We'll be back, so there is no hurry.
Grazie!
Oct 3rd, 2014, 01:36 PM
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That sound like fun. The later in March the better---can you do April instead?
You do not say the exact number of nights in Italy so I will assume 12. Here is what I would consider:
Florence---3 nites
Get car--to Tuscany base in Chianti to see Siena, Volterra and San Gimignano---3 nites---Look at Fattoria Tregole
Drive to Umbria base---Bevagna
You do not say the exact number of nights in Italy so I will assume 12. Here is what I would consider:
Florence---3 nites
Get car--to Tuscany base in Chianti to see Siena, Volterra and San Gimignano---3 nites---Look at Fattoria Tregole
Drive to Umbria base---Bevagna
Oct 3rd, 2014, 04:43 PM
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If you can't get a decent flight to Florence but much better to Rome, it would be helpful to arrive early in the day, get to town and take the 1.5 train ride to Florence.
Florence rent a car at the airport. Do what Bob recommends!
Florence rent a car at the airport. Do what Bob recommends!
Oct 3rd, 2014, 08:15 PM
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Mid-late March is our best bet, as April is a busy month in our business.
I will look up your recs, bob, thanks! The airfare can be be tricky. Might be best to do the trip in reverse, starting in Rome, and ending in Florence.
I will look up your recs, bob, thanks! The airfare can be be tricky. Might be best to do the trip in reverse, starting in Rome, and ending in Florence.
Oct 4th, 2014, 02:32 AM
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You'll be fine in March and it could rain all the time in April. Just no telling. You can even have March truffles in March, which you can't get in April!
What bored your husband the last time at the same B&? Did he want a bigger town or more history sites or hikes or.wineries or less of the above or... ?
Personally I find San Gimignano and that area a lot less interesting than Umbria. Nor would I hang around north if ultimately I was exiting Rome. If wineries are top of the pops for you and your husband, then go to Chianti, but what meant the most to you about the val d'Orcia was the scenery, you've already seen the best of it for Tuscany and you might find Umbria has the feel of less tourism than San Gimignano or Siena (anyway, you can stop by Siena on your way to Umbria if you like). Umbria has some exceptionally important museums and art sites, and more generally more variety.
What bored your husband the last time at the same B&? Did he want a bigger town or more history sites or hikes or.wineries or less of the above or... ?
Personally I find San Gimignano and that area a lot less interesting than Umbria. Nor would I hang around north if ultimately I was exiting Rome. If wineries are top of the pops for you and your husband, then go to Chianti, but what meant the most to you about the val d'Orcia was the scenery, you've already seen the best of it for Tuscany and you might find Umbria has the feel of less tourism than San Gimignano or Siena (anyway, you can stop by Siena on your way to Umbria if you like). Umbria has some exceptionally important museums and art sites, and more generally more variety.
Oct 4th, 2014, 10:13 AM
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Sandralist, you may be right. Umbria may be the ticket for this trip. The scenery was the draw in Val d'Orcia. And getting to see La Foce, the monasteries, etc., was special. We stopped into Siena on our first trip. I guess I just think that I "have" to go to Florence this go-round.
One think he didn't like having to get in the car to go to dinner at night, since he had driven during the day and was "done" with it by then. So if we could stay somewhere that's easy to get in and out of, and that we can walk to dinner, that would better suit him. I don't particularly like picking up and moving every few days. I like wineries, but they aren't the be all end all for us. Museums, churches, and art sites are more compelling in general.
If we were to spend 4 nights in Umbria, where would you stay, and what would be the day trips/sites to see?
One think he didn't like having to get in the car to go to dinner at night, since he had driven during the day and was "done" with it by then. So if we could stay somewhere that's easy to get in and out of, and that we can walk to dinner, that would better suit him. I don't particularly like picking up and moving every few days. I like wineries, but they aren't the be all end all for us. Museums, churches, and art sites are more compelling in general.
If we were to spend 4 nights in Umbria, where would you stay, and what would be the day trips/sites to see?
Oct 4th, 2014, 12:06 PM
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You might want to look into Spoleto. It is a big enough town to have lots of restaurants and a whole range of sights from many eras of history, yet at the same time small enough to afford lovely views of the countryside, easy in-and-out car access and a very tranquil feeling. Spoleto is also extremely well positioned to take in a whole range of sights in Umbria: you can obviously visit Assisi, but you can also visit tinier towns like Spello or Montefalco or Bevagna, or you can see the Roman waterfalls at Cascata delle Marmore.
Perugia is a wonderful city but it is not easy to get into or out of with a car. It has an absolutely fantastic museum of historic painting if you want to include it for a day trip from Spoleto or another Umbrian town, but you need to be motivated to drive there (confusing roadways) or you can take the train (easy to hop on one in nearby Foligno but you need to want to do it).
Other towns near Spoleto of interest include Narni and Orvieto, or Gubbio (a bit more of a trek) or Norcia (beloved by foodies).
If you haven't bought plane tickets, it can be simple to fly into Rome and go right to Orvieto by train to spend your first night or two. It is a beautiful town. There is a car rental office there and you can head out into the rest of Umbria. Going home, you could jump on your idea to visit Ostia Antica by driving there from Umbria just before you are ready to return the car at the airport and leave Italy.
If you would really like to see Perugia (which would have all its chocolate factories in full swing, gearing up for making chocolate easter eggs, then another plan might be to enjoy a night or two in Perugia during the final days of your stay, (if you are Ok with cities), and then driver yourselves to the airport in plenty of time for your departure, or leave the car in Perugia and take public transportation to the airport.
By the way, I am with your husband when it comes to hating to drive to dinner and back. I often stay on farms that serve dinner for just that reason when I am in the mood for a truly rural stay. Or else I like towns with lots of art and atmosphere but not many tourists or traffic. Spoleto, especially in Spring, would be just the kind of place I'd be looking for.
Perugia is a wonderful city but it is not easy to get into or out of with a car. It has an absolutely fantastic museum of historic painting if you want to include it for a day trip from Spoleto or another Umbrian town, but you need to be motivated to drive there (confusing roadways) or you can take the train (easy to hop on one in nearby Foligno but you need to want to do it).
Other towns near Spoleto of interest include Narni and Orvieto, or Gubbio (a bit more of a trek) or Norcia (beloved by foodies).
If you haven't bought plane tickets, it can be simple to fly into Rome and go right to Orvieto by train to spend your first night or two. It is a beautiful town. There is a car rental office there and you can head out into the rest of Umbria. Going home, you could jump on your idea to visit Ostia Antica by driving there from Umbria just before you are ready to return the car at the airport and leave Italy.
If you would really like to see Perugia (which would have all its chocolate factories in full swing, gearing up for making chocolate easter eggs, then another plan might be to enjoy a night or two in Perugia during the final days of your stay, (if you are Ok with cities), and then driver yourselves to the airport in plenty of time for your departure, or leave the car in Perugia and take public transportation to the airport.
By the way, I am with your husband when it comes to hating to drive to dinner and back. I often stay on farms that serve dinner for just that reason when I am in the mood for a truly rural stay. Or else I like towns with lots of art and atmosphere but not many tourists or traffic. Spoleto, especially in Spring, would be just the kind of place I'd be looking for.
Oct 4th, 2014, 12:14 PM
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One more thought:
If you feel you "must" go to Florence, it is not hard to do that and go to Umbria too. If you can't find a flight directly to Florence, it is just as easy to take a train right to there after landing in Rome as it would be to go to Orvieto. Picking up a car in Florence, you can swing through Chianti for lunch and then if you like, try Spello for dinner and sleeping, with a visit to Assisi the following day, and returning to Spello for another night's sleep. And then off to Spoleto, maybe stopping by Bevagna and Montefalco on the way (both very small towns), and then just enjoy ing Spoleto for those nights. Drop off the car in Orvieto so you can see the tremendous cathedral and enjoy lunch, then take the train into Rome. You can take an underground tour in Orvieto as well and an underground tour in Rome, and come back and tell everybody what a deep experience of Italy you had!
If you feel you "must" go to Florence, it is not hard to do that and go to Umbria too. If you can't find a flight directly to Florence, it is just as easy to take a train right to there after landing in Rome as it would be to go to Orvieto. Picking up a car in Florence, you can swing through Chianti for lunch and then if you like, try Spello for dinner and sleeping, with a visit to Assisi the following day, and returning to Spello for another night's sleep. And then off to Spoleto, maybe stopping by Bevagna and Montefalco on the way (both very small towns), and then just enjoy ing Spoleto for those nights. Drop off the car in Orvieto so you can see the tremendous cathedral and enjoy lunch, then take the train into Rome. You can take an underground tour in Orvieto as well and an underground tour in Rome, and come back and tell everybody what a deep experience of Italy you had!
Oct 5th, 2014, 08:52 AM
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Comment: great to see bobthenavigator post! He helped me with a trip to Italy way back in 1999 and advice was spot on.
We just returned from 17 days in Italy. Mostly road trip in the Dolomites then down to Venice for cruise. One bit of general advice. Be sure your hotels are easy to get into, park and exit with a car. We again used Al Gambero in Venice. Great location, clean, but small rooms, and nice staff. Getting up stairs was not easy. No lift.
Our hotel in Bellagio, Hotel Bellagio, also great but you had to walk up many steps to get to front door. With bags.
Check these things out at all places to be sure no surprise.
We just returned from 17 days in Italy. Mostly road trip in the Dolomites then down to Venice for cruise. One bit of general advice. Be sure your hotels are easy to get into, park and exit with a car. We again used Al Gambero in Venice. Great location, clean, but small rooms, and nice staff. Getting up stairs was not easy. No lift.
Our hotel in Bellagio, Hotel Bellagio, also great but you had to walk up many steps to get to front door. With bags.
Check these things out at all places to be sure no surprise.
Oct 5th, 2014, 09:31 AM
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Yes, I am hoping to find somewhere easy to park for the Umbria portion. Bevagna may be the best choice for that reason, but I need to do my homework. Finding it hard to figure out where to stay in Florence. Is there such a thing as a hotel/inn that is central, but also a peaceful refuge from the madding crowds? We will stay at Navona Garden Suites in Rome (stayed here before), which has that feeling for us.
Oct 5th, 2014, 10:45 AM
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This may help you in Florence---the B&Bs are good ones if you like that style. Have fun planning !
BOB’S FAVORITE HOTELS IN FLORENCE---2014
SMALL B&Bs Prices from 140 to 200E for a double room
• http://www.touristhouseghiberti.com/ Nice B&B near Duomo
• www.ilvillino.it Nice people and good value
• www.ladimoradegliangeli.com Lovely B&B—great location
• www.residenzailcarmine.com/ Well priced apartments
MID –RANGE HOTELS: Prices from 150 to 300E by season
* www.hoteldavanzati.it Great location and amenities
* www.hotelcasci.com Good family hotel in centro location
* www.hotelsilla.it Across the river with less noise & people
* www.ilguelfobianco.it Hard to beat for location and service
* www.hotelburchianti.it/english/ Great location---historic hotel
BETTER 4 STAR HOTELS: Prices from 250 to 350E by season
• www.hotel-pierre-florence.com Very central elegant hotel
• www.monnalisa.it An elegant historical palace—Santa Croce
BUDGET HOTELS---BEST VALUE: Priced from 90 to 120E for double
* www.hotelfiorita.com/en/home.html Great value near station
* www.hotelnizza.com/en/ Also near station---basic but nice
BOB’S FAVORITE HOTELS IN FLORENCE---2014
SMALL B&Bs Prices from 140 to 200E for a double room
• http://www.touristhouseghiberti.com/ Nice B&B near Duomo
• www.ilvillino.it Nice people and good value
• www.ladimoradegliangeli.com Lovely B&B—great location
• www.residenzailcarmine.com/ Well priced apartments
MID –RANGE HOTELS: Prices from 150 to 300E by season
* www.hoteldavanzati.it Great location and amenities
* www.hotelcasci.com Good family hotel in centro location
* www.hotelsilla.it Across the river with less noise & people
* www.ilguelfobianco.it Hard to beat for location and service
* www.hotelburchianti.it/english/ Great location---historic hotel
BETTER 4 STAR HOTELS: Prices from 250 to 350E by season
• www.hotel-pierre-florence.com Very central elegant hotel
• www.monnalisa.it An elegant historical palace—Santa Croce
BUDGET HOTELS---BEST VALUE: Priced from 90 to 120E for double
* www.hotelfiorita.com/en/home.html Great value near station
* www.hotelnizza.com/en/ Also near station---basic but nice
Oct 5th, 2014, 10:57 AM
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sformby,
I really like Tourist House Ghiberti in Florence for tranquility + unbeatable location + nicely priced. I've actually stayed there. But read reviews from plenty of people for any recommended place. Booking.com has the advantage of having reviews that guaranteed to be from people who cannot recommend (or dish) the hotel unless it is confirmed they actually slept there themselves.
Other than Perugia in Umbria, you will find every town offers you reasonably easy parking. What makes a huge difference to some tourists is the steepness of someplace like Spello or Montefalco as opposed to the absolutely flatness of Bevagna. Spoleto is more of a slope, so it is in-between, and you can enjoy some views if you don't mind some uphill walking sometimes.
I really like Tourist House Ghiberti in Florence for tranquility + unbeatable location + nicely priced. I've actually stayed there. But read reviews from plenty of people for any recommended place. Booking.com has the advantage of having reviews that guaranteed to be from people who cannot recommend (or dish) the hotel unless it is confirmed they actually slept there themselves.
Other than Perugia in Umbria, you will find every town offers you reasonably easy parking. What makes a huge difference to some tourists is the steepness of someplace like Spello or Montefalco as opposed to the absolutely flatness of Bevagna. Spoleto is more of a slope, so it is in-between, and you can enjoy some views if you don't mind some uphill walking sometimes.
Oct 6th, 2014, 02:07 PM
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If you end up staying in Spello consider Palazzo Bocci. I loved it and Spello. Parking for the hotel is very easy and relatively flat to roll luggage. There is a elevator. I found Spello very easy to drive in out. Plus it's tiny and untouristed. A couple of excellent restaurants right on the same main street.
Jan 5th, 2015, 11:53 AM
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Well, I have pulled the trigger on our airfare and we are going! I am firming up plans and wanted to get feedback on itinerary:
Fly from states to London, 2 nights London (jet lag relief station). Plane to Florence.
3 nights Florence: Hotel Davanzati or Tourist House Ghiberti or Westin. Might could get free nights at Westin, but location seems a bit off by itself?
Then, pick up car at the Hertz NOT located in ZTL zone, drive to Umbria, maybe stopping along the way for lunch in a Tuscan town (suggestions?)
3 nights Bevagna: Residenza Porta Guelfa (seems like easy parking and quick walk into town)
We really want to see Ostia Antica. I was toying with the idea of driving from Bevagna to OA on the last Umbria day, seeing the excavations, and then dropping the car at the airport and getting a taxi into town. Does that sound efficient or should we get rid of the car as soon as we can and then rely on the train?
Alt: Drop car in Orvieto, train to Rome
4 nights Rome: Marriott Grand Flora (got free nights w points, hard to argue with that. Hope the neighborhood isn’t too snooty).
Fly from states to London, 2 nights London (jet lag relief station). Plane to Florence.
3 nights Florence: Hotel Davanzati or Tourist House Ghiberti or Westin. Might could get free nights at Westin, but location seems a bit off by itself?
Then, pick up car at the Hertz NOT located in ZTL zone, drive to Umbria, maybe stopping along the way for lunch in a Tuscan town (suggestions?)
3 nights Bevagna: Residenza Porta Guelfa (seems like easy parking and quick walk into town)
We really want to see Ostia Antica. I was toying with the idea of driving from Bevagna to OA on the last Umbria day, seeing the excavations, and then dropping the car at the airport and getting a taxi into town. Does that sound efficient or should we get rid of the car as soon as we can and then rely on the train?
Alt: Drop car in Orvieto, train to Rome
4 nights Rome: Marriott Grand Flora (got free nights w points, hard to argue with that. Hope the neighborhood isn’t too snooty).
Jan 5th, 2015, 12:23 PM
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I think your plan to see Ostia Antica by driving there, then dropping off the car at the airport is fine. Ostia Antica is wonderful.
I had lunch at the Westin just the other day, on their astonishing all-glass rooftop terrace. The extra steps wouldn't bother me. Its only a 10 minute walk to the piazza del Duomo, and less than that to some other sights. If you don't want to eat every night at the pricey restaurant, there are others right in the neighborhood, including walking across the river and finding some very un-touristy ones. But I would really love that view for cocktails every night.
I had lunch at the Westin just the other day, on their astonishing all-glass rooftop terrace. The extra steps wouldn't bother me. Its only a 10 minute walk to the piazza del Duomo, and less than that to some other sights. If you don't want to eat every night at the pricey restaurant, there are others right in the neighborhood, including walking across the river and finding some very un-touristy ones. But I would really love that view for cocktails every night.
Jan 5th, 2015, 12:35 PM
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sandralist, thanks for the Westin info. I'd really appreciate the input on staying at the Westin, vs. the convivality of a central B&B. We collect these hotel points, then sometimes its hard to actually use them, as we are looking for a more "authentic" trip than just staying at a chain American hotel. That being said, the Florence Westin looks like an amazing old hotel, ditto the Marriott in Rome.
If we go straight to Ostia Antic, and then to Rome, I could probably only stay 3 nights in Rome, and add one to Florence. I've been to Rome once before and never to Florence. But maybe 3 nights there is sufficient for the first time. Ah, trip calculus...
If we go straight to Ostia Antic, and then to Rome, I could probably only stay 3 nights in Rome, and add one to Florence. I've been to Rome once before and never to Florence. But maybe 3 nights there is sufficient for the first time. Ah, trip calculus...
Jan 5th, 2015, 12:56 PM
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Also, as for lunch on your way down from Florence, you will passing right near the very pretty and untouristed small town of Lucignano, one of Tuscany's beset. It's got a parking lot right outside its main gate, and its an interesting place to see and has several restaurants, all modestly priced. If you weren't looking for a particular kind of lunch, it could be a nice, casual place to stop. It was the setting of a lovely movie starring Juliette Binoche called "Certified Copy"
http://www.bestsmalltownsitaly.com/t...uscany-center/
http://www.abctuscany.com/arezzo/lucignano/
http://www.lifeinitaly.com/tourism/tuscany/lucignano
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_z18UR838X8
http://www.bestsmalltownsitaly.com/t...uscany-center/
http://www.abctuscany.com/arezzo/lucignano/
http://www.lifeinitaly.com/tourism/tuscany/lucignano
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_z18UR838X8
