Two days in Orvieto or two nights? We've stayed twice at the Hotel Piccolomini in Orvieto, but you may wish to stay closer to the top of the funicular (Piazza Cahen) for easy access to the train station. Or taxi to/from your hotel.

What a wonderful trip you have planned, Rome and Umbria in late September / early October is such a beautiful combination.

For your 5 days in Rome, I would suggest staying in either Centro Storico, Trastevere, or the Monti neighborhood.

• Centro Storico is perfect if you want to be close to the classic sights and enjoy walking everywhere.
• Trastevere has a lovely atmosphere, beautiful streets, great restaurants, wine bars, and feels especially magical in the evenings.
• Monti is one of my personal favorites with charming streets, boutiques, and easy access to the Colosseum area.

For must-see sights in Rome, I would definitely include:

• Colosseum & Roman Forum
• Pantheon
• Trevi Fountain
• Piazza Navona
• Vatican City & St. Peter’s Basilica
• Trastevere for evenings
• Spanish Steps area for wandering

Since your wife loves photography and street art, she may really enjoy exploring the Ostiense district and parts of Pigneto, which are known for murals and urban art.

For Umbria, I would break the week down between:

• Perugia (great base and lovely atmosphere)
• Assisi (absolutely a must)
• Spello (beautiful for photography)
• Orvieto
• Gubbio
• Montefalco (wonderful for wine)

A nice way to spend the week is 2 nights around Perugia, then day trips by car to nearby towns.

For music, Rome has wonderful live jazz bars and small music venues, especially around Trastevere and Monti. In Umbria, depending on dates, it is worth checking if there are any local concerts or events in Perugia.

It sounds like an absolutely lovely trip, especially for photography and food.

Hi Allyboy,
Below is some input about Perugia. I've cut and pasted from a previous post. I also highly recco Spoleto as it seems to hit the sweet spot for many travelers.

If looking for historical Perugia photo ops, chocolate, lunch and like that:
The ancient Etruscans built the dark lane via Volte della pace. Another superbly historic place is the arched corner of v. Aquilone/v. Mesti d. Volti. Here, one could do a 2-fer, as the Talmone Chocolate shop is nearby on the latter street. That choco-shop seemed a more friendly place than the storied pastry shop Sandri, across the way. At Talmone, one is also close to the unique Aquadotto (and also the grisly murder site that once led to so much trouble for American uni student Amanda Knox). Pza Rossi Scotti (aka Porta del Sol) is worth a peek. And of course, there's the obvious Palazzo d. Priori area, with its interesting fountain.

A more peripheral site down in the SE corner, but one just as photogenic and atmospheric, is the sumptuous Chiesa S. Pietro. Some claim that its historic wooden choir row is the best in Italy (best reached by cab or local bus).
Giardini Carducci has some nice views out to the countryside.
The underground transit station was apparently once a historic women's prison--very unique setting.
And for all its 'stars' Brufani palace was not at all stuffy nor exclusive. Great lunch place.

If in that general area, one might also visit the lesser-known Abbazia di S. Pietro, a splurge lodging with a setting and breakfast worth crossing an ocean for.
Two additional quasi-related notes: a) Fendi Pinot Noir made in nearby Valfabrico is the best Pinot that either of us have ever tasted--if you see a bottle then buy it, youz won't regret it. b) Castellucio and its thermal inversion misty sunrises just might make the highlight of your trip. One could drive there just for that rarefied experience whilst parked on the periphery, but given the earthquake devastation (ruptured gas lines) you can no longer actually lodge there unfortunately.

We based in Bevagna and would also recco that.
I am done. the Umbrian experience

Hi allyboy, my late DH never drove in Italy but he and I had an amazing stay in Spoleto. In a separate visit, we based in Perugia and hired a driver.

Turin, Spoleto, Bologna and Bellagio TR
We loved our hotel here! Scroll down to page #4 for the Spoleto part.

Perugia and Rome by train and bus
We arrived in Rome early enough to catch the train to Perugia.

We visited some wonderful towns. I think you can see where driving is easier. Please share your time in Bella Italia!

Thanks Jean. We will be in Orvieto for 2 nights and I just booked the Hotel Duomo!

Thanks touroclock6289 for all of your suggestions and information regarding Rome neighborhoods, sights to see, towns to visit in Umbria and suggesting Ostiense district for my wife! We are spending time in London soon after our trip to Croatia exploring many neighborhoods with street art there.
I am hoping to book two places in Rome: first at the beginning of our trip for 4 nights in Monti and then at the end for 2 days in Trastervere. We are huge music lovers and so the enticement of listening to live music in the evenings there is a great motivation.

Thank you Zebec for all of your wonderful suggestions regarding Perugia. Since we will have a car it should make it easier to explore, eat and drink all overtt the countryside!

You are welcome. If you might ever require assistance with finding a rental there, Spoleto-based real estate agent Luana Zangarelli could be contacted. She supplied us with our rental overlooking the Bevagna square (and still sends us promo emails every 5 months or so!)
I am done. the Umbrian autumn

Thank you TDudette for all of your information!

Hotels now booked in Orvieto and Rome.
Orvieto: Hotel Duomo
Rome: Monti neighborhood for first 4 nights in Hotel Salotto and last 2 nights in Testavere at The Residenza San Calista

I will be placing this thread on hold for a bit as we travel to Croatia and London for 3 weeks. Thanks to all who have contributed and I will return with many more questions!