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Old Apr 7th, 2006, 08:15 PM
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Help for Rioja, Basque Country & Navarra

I need some advice from the Spain experts. We (DH, DD, elderly aunt & I)are headed to Spain June 8. We will rent a car in BCN, head to Cadeques for a few days, visit cousins in Lleida for a few days before heading to the Basque Country to visit more cousins in Pamplona. We then head back to Lleida and BCN to finish the trip. DH flies back to CA on 6/22. DD, aunt & I on 6/27.

I need help on the Basque/Rioja/Navarra portion of the trip as far as planning time. Must dos: San Sebastian/Basque Coast, stop at a winery in the Rioja/ visit my grandparents hometown in the Pyrenees. My grandparents were Basque, but from Navarra. Their towns are located in the Valley de Erro: Linzoain & Loizu. I also have to fit in the cousins in Pamplona. I have about 5 days to do all this and am trying to figure out how long it would take to travel from say, a stop in the Rioja up to SS. And also how long to travel up to the villages from San Sebastian.

Logistics advice or any other advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

MY
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Old Apr 7th, 2006, 08:17 PM
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PS: I have thought of perhaps basing in SS about 2-3 nights then maybe Pamplona or in the country side for another 2-3 nights. Any other suggestions would be great.
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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 08:39 AM
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If you're driving in from Barcelona via Lleida, you can follow the road to Zaragoza, through Tudela and into Logroño and Laguardia.

There are a number of wineries (bodegas) in Logroño, Laguardia, Haro, Abalos, Briones, Fuenmayor, Samaniego, Sonsierra, Elciego, Villabuena and Labastida that you can visit, to name but a few. There are also a few new bodegas outside of Pamplona, including the Bodega Otazu.

The drive from Logroño to Pamplona is about an hour’s drive on the new highway.

Lintzoain is about a 20-minute drive north of Pamplona on the N135, the road to Roncesvalles, while Loizu is a few minutes southeast of Lintzoain, between the villages of Aintoza and Ardaiz, along the Rio Erro

San Sebastian-Donostia is only an hour’s drive from Pamplona and makes an easy day trip, so you may want to make Pamplona your base while visiting your family. The total driving time from Pamplona to Barcelona usually takes around 5 hours.
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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 10:16 AM
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Thanks Robert. I was hoping you would respond since you seem to be the Basque expert. Can we do all this in 5 days? DH is a wine grape grower, so that's why I need to fit in the Rioja/wine thing. I have been checking websites for Navarra casa rurales, but may just base in Pamplona. My cousins all live in apartments, so a hotel may be best for us. Any hotel recs in or near Pamplona?

It will be fun finding our roots. My aunt is 80 and these are the towns her parents came from about 100 years ago. She speaks Spanish, but only understands some Basque. In fact, my grandmother's maiden name was Erro.

Thanks again.
MY
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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 02:06 PM
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I asked Robert about the nicest Pamplona hotels and he referred me to the AC Ciudad de Pamplona. (If you do a search on Pamplona hotels some of those threads will appear...)

http://www.achotelciudaddepamplona.com/

He also told me to check out the brand new 4* AC Zizur which is a few miles outside of Pamplona's city center. Parking rates at Zizur are a little cheaper than AC Pamplona but I don't know by how much. The rates were so cheap for my dates relative to Paris or Florence -- only 55-90 E.

I'd have to take a bus back and forth to get from Zizur (there's a stop right in front of the hotel) to the campus in Pamplona. Does anyone know if there's a bus pass with unlimited rides available?

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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 02:18 PM
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You can cover the area of Pamplona – Laguardia / Logroño - San Sebastian-Donostia in five days with a little planning on what you want to see and do.

There are several good hotels in Pamplona, including the Hotel Avenida (a small family owned traditional hotel in the center of the city, close to the Plaza del Castillo), the AC Ciudad de Pamplona (a nice 3-star business class hotel with free minibar, bathrobes, etc.) and the Hotel Albret, but you may want to check out the new AC Cizur south of the main part of the city. They are running some great specials through the summer to introduce this new 4-star in Pamplona.

One of the Casa Rural de Navarra I can recommend is Casa Rural Jauregi, in the village of Aranguren, 10 minutes east of Pamplona and close to both of your grandparents’ villages. The Casa Carpintero in Astain is another possibility, as is the Casa Gotitxea in Belascoain, but this one will require climbing stairs. Casa Apolonia, in the village of Artazu (http://www.casaruralapolonia.com/) would be another good choice since it is just southwest of Pamplona and close to the Bodega Otazu.

Two of our favorites are in the village of Orisoain, the Casa Rural El Pajar (http://www.elpajar.com/) and the Palacio de Orisoain (http://www.palaciodeorisoain.com/), which may be the perfect match for this trip. Orisoain is located about twenty minutes or so south of Pamplona just off the N121. The Palacio has one apartment with two bedrooms and two smaller apartments. They are also in the process of adding another apartment.

For a little more information on what to see and do in the Basque Country and La Rioja, check out Maribel’s Guides.
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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 02:22 PM
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fishee, the rates for the bus should still be about 0.70 euros one-way. I don't think they sell a multi-use pass, but the bus driver should be able to advise you.
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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 02:47 PM
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Dear Robert & Fishee:

Thank you for the info. I will check out these sites. I am also pouring over Maribel's Guides for more info. I am now thinking of splitting the time between SS & Pamplona.

Thanks again,

MY
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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 04:48 PM
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Michelle Y -- Here's the direct link to the Zizur/Cizur's own webpage if you wanted to see the rates for your nights. Mine worked out to 56 E for weekends...

https://reservations.ihotelier.com/o...p;languageid=2

Also, I don't know which rental car company you're going with but I used this AVIS discount corporate code -- D005927 -- and it knocked 35% off. I then asked AutoEurope to match this discounted rate (without mentioning the code) and they beat that discounted price and I was able to prepay. I was nervous about AVIS asking for some kind of ID for using the code but now that I'm prepaid with AutoEurope, there's no issue.
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Old Apr 8th, 2006, 07:32 PM
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Thanks fishee. Please give a report when you return.

MY
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Old Apr 10th, 2006, 10:51 AM
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Another question: How long of a drive from SS-St.Jean de Luz-St.JeanPied du Port-Pamplona? And would it be a worth while trek for our purposes? (Seeing the land of my ancestors).

Thanks again.

MY
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Old Apr 10th, 2006, 06:42 PM
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Michelle,
We've done the same route several times, and the actual time always varies depending on where we stop for lunch and what we what to see and do. As a drive you can do it easily in one afternoon, but with stops you can expect it to take a little longer.

San Sebastian to St. Jean-de-Luz 30 minutes
St. Jean-de Luz to Pied-de-Port 1 hours
Pied-de-Port to Pamplona 1-1/2 hours (depending on the traffic over the pass)

Pamplona to SS 1 hour

There are a number of great places to stop for lunch in the Pays Basque, but one of the highest rated is restaurant Les Pyreneés in St. Jean Pied-de-Port.
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Old Apr 10th, 2006, 07:22 PM
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Robert: Thanks again for the info. We do plan on eating and drinking quite a bit!!!

MY
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Old May 31st, 2006, 08:02 AM
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Our trip is a week away!!! Thank you everyone for your help. The semi-final plans are:

Fly into BCN, rent car, to Cadeques June 8-11
June 11 & 12 - Lleida to visit cousins, celebrate my 50th birthday

June 13 - head west, spend night at Villa de Abalos, eat & drink

June 14 & 15 - San Sebastian, Hotel Niza, also have day tour arranged with Gabriella of Tenedor Tours

June 16 - 19 - visit cousins in Pamplona, visit ancestral villagesoizu & Lintsoain. this part of the trip is not set. Phone # for cousins isn't working, so have not been able to contact them. I sent a letter, but no reply so far.

June 19 - return to Lleida. Will do trips to BCN & Castell de Remei winery.

I need some more advice: Our stay in SS & Pamplona is during the Corpus Cristi holiday. Will site/shops etc. be open? What will this be like? I am concerned about our Tenedor tour, but nothing was said about the holiday when we booked. I will be e-mailing to reconfirm.

Any other helpful info would be great. I have been using Maribel's guide and info from Robert2533,fishee, eskrunchy etc. Thank you all.

MY
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Old May 31st, 2006, 11:18 PM
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I hope I didn't needlessly freak you out with my driving post. Driving in Pamplona was really easy and simple and the drive from Pamplona to San Sebastian was a totally pleasant, beautiful drive. Highways signs are well marked and roads were in very good condition and we never experienced heavy traffic -- in fact, it was usually only a handful of other cars on the road besides the trucks in the right lane. It's easy to get the hang of the roundabouts -- but merge carefully into the outside lane.

Driving in Barcelona was horrid because I was overly reliant on my poor mappy directions and I had neglected to pre-purchase a good detailed map of Barcelona -- totally our mistake and preventable.

The Asador Epeleta that Robert mentioned was, as you know, a kind of rapture experience for us. It was a very easy 20 minute drive from the AC Zizur. But your cousins would probably know all this. Which hotel did you decide to go with -- Masionave or AC or staying with them?
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Old Jun 1st, 2006, 03:13 AM
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You need to understand Spanish to read this, a very recent review (this past Saturday) on Epeleta, now that you mention it

http://canales.elcorreodigital.com/g...6_epeleta.html
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Old Jun 1st, 2006, 03:20 AM
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Have a wonderful trip. And thanks for a great post on a less popular area. We hope to return there maybe next year. enjoy.
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Old Jun 1st, 2006, 05:43 AM
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hi mikelg,
I just read the RGS review of Epeleta, and I just want to add that it is one of our very, very favorite asadores in Navarra, or the Basque Country, for that matter! (Another of our favorites is Bedua in Zumaia). We take a corporate group to dine each year at Epeleta after a visit to the beautiful Otazu winery, and they always enjoy that bountiful chuletón and the cider sampling before it. Impeccable primer ingredients prepared simply but perfectly. The husband and wife team make us feel very welcome. It's a carnivore's paradise!
fishee,
Glad you found it a rapture experience-we sure do!
If anyone is in the Pamplona area, I highly recommend a visit to the state-of-the-art Señorío de Otazu winery.
Tours are by prior reservation only.
www.otazu.com

MichelleY,
At the Villa de Abalos,
please tell José Luis, Merche (his wife and chef) and María (his sister) "hi" for me. I just spent time with them relaxing, wine tasting and dining in March while on a Fam Trip with the Rioja Tourist Board. We were the family's very first American clients when they opened 4 years ago, and we've been returning regularly ever since. We feel like family-it's out home away from home in the Rioja!

And you're in very good hands with Gabriela, owner of Tenedor Tours. She has an amazing insider knowledge of the foods and wines of the Basque Country.

About Corpus in Pamplona: Most everthing should be open.

I have several American Basque friends in the Northwest and from Boise who have gone to Navarra and the Basque Country to discover or reconnect with their roots. Have you read the books by Robert Laxalt, such as "Sweet Promised Land" and "A Cup of Tea in Pamplona"?
A Boise Basque friend whose family came from Lekeitio introduced them to me.

Have a great time, and enjoy your visit with your relatives!
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Old Jun 1st, 2006, 06:59 AM
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now that we are talking (on a side, I know), about food, let me recommend those coming to Bilbao a restaurant opened a couple of years ago, www.kate-zaharra.com. If looking for something similar to Epeleta, but in Bilbao, here it is. The views are spectacular, the food is based on primary products and the cellar is something worth seeing.

I had lunch there last week and it was very good indeed.

Close to it (in Artxanda mountain), at half the price, but also excellent, Txakoli Simón, (sorry, no web page found).

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Old Jun 1st, 2006, 09:51 AM
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Thank you everyone!!

Maribel: I have not read the two books you mention, but have read others by Laxalt. I am still a little concerned about the Corpus holiday: our day tour with Gabriella is Thurs, June 15. We plan to visit a winery in Getara, since we grow winegrapes here in California. I guess I just have to not stress and whatever happens is OK.

Fishee: did you get and Int'l drivers permit? I have only done this once for Europe and have normally skipped it. Also, how was the weather?
We aren't sure where we will stay in Pamplona. I haven't heard from the cousins, so I may just show up on their doorstep!!

Well, we do plan to eat,drink and be merry. I just hope we have enough time to enjoy it all.

Thank,

MY
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