Happy accidents ,undiscovered gems -London, Paris
Jun 25th, 2016, 10:34 AM
#42
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cjar: Ah, a topic I know something about: PreRaphealites.
We travel frequently to see PreRaphealite art. In London, yes the Tate Britain is a good choice. There are also PreRaphealite pieces at the V&A and the National Gallery, but the Tate will give you the most bang on the PRs.
Leighton's Flaming June will be at Leighton House, in situ where it was painted, but alas, not until you're gone. But I think I have a really good idea for you.
If you want to go to The City or St Paul's, nearby is the Guildhall Art Gallery. Completely out of the well-trodden paths, with a few exquisite PR and Victorian paintings, and in the basement, well-presented but small sections of the Roman Amphitheater. Great art and amazing history in a small space off the beaten path. I feel like you HAVE to go there.
Tissot's The Last Evening will knock your socks off; two matching Millais', My First Sermon and My Second Sermon are just too too; I was going to talk about more but here's a list from the web:
Copley
The Defeat of the Floating Batteries at Gibraltar, September 1782
The Seige of Gibraltar
Rossetti
La Ghirlandata
Hunt
The Eve of St Agnes
Millais
The Woodman's Daughter
My First Sermon
My Second Sermon
Leighton
The Wounded Cavalier
Sir John Gilbert
Alma-Tadema
Tissot
Too Early
The Last Evening
Landseer
Constable
Salisbury Cathedral from the Meadows
Sir Matthew Smith
Roman London's Amphitheatre
You can see a good deal that will stay with you and not drag your family through a large museum, in a short time.
Highly recommend.
We travel frequently to see PreRaphealite art. In London, yes the Tate Britain is a good choice. There are also PreRaphealite pieces at the V&A and the National Gallery, but the Tate will give you the most bang on the PRs.
Leighton's Flaming June will be at Leighton House, in situ where it was painted, but alas, not until you're gone. But I think I have a really good idea for you.
If you want to go to The City or St Paul's, nearby is the Guildhall Art Gallery. Completely out of the well-trodden paths, with a few exquisite PR and Victorian paintings, and in the basement, well-presented but small sections of the Roman Amphitheater. Great art and amazing history in a small space off the beaten path. I feel like you HAVE to go there.
Tissot's The Last Evening will knock your socks off; two matching Millais', My First Sermon and My Second Sermon are just too too; I was going to talk about more but here's a list from the web:
Copley
The Defeat of the Floating Batteries at Gibraltar, September 1782
The Seige of Gibraltar
Rossetti
La Ghirlandata
Hunt
The Eve of St Agnes
Millais
The Woodman's Daughter
My First Sermon
My Second Sermon
Leighton
The Wounded Cavalier
Sir John Gilbert
Alma-Tadema
Tissot
Too Early
The Last Evening
Landseer
Constable
Salisbury Cathedral from the Meadows
Sir Matthew Smith
Roman London's Amphitheatre
You can see a good deal that will stay with you and not drag your family through a large museum, in a short time.
Highly recommend.
Jun 25th, 2016, 08:51 PM
#44
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I am overwhelmed by all of the lovely and thoughtful suggestions.
Tuscanlifedit- Thank you so much for answering the PreRaphaelite question. I will absolutely find the time to visit as many as possible. So sorry to miss Flaming June.
I really love the idea of a concert as well. We did that in Venice and yes it was the Four Seasons, but since we're not well versed in classical music, we really enjoyed it as we are familiar with that piece of Vivaldi . How lovely it would be to attend a concert at Saint Chapelle. Any particular venues that anyone has really loved?
Denise's- We arrive in Paris on my husband's birthday! I knew there was something I liked about you.
Ssander- I hope we have time for Cecil Court. On one of our family trips, we meandered past a bookbinder who also made hand embossed leather covers. It was really interesting to watch. I love handmade work. There is something so admirable about those who still have a passion for doing things the old fashioned way with both care and precision.
Fuzzbucket- I do love museums. Unfortunately I am the only one so I try to be fair to everyone else and not make them suffer unduly. You are always full of terrific information and have already been so helpful with planning for this trip.
If anyone has anything to add, please join in.
Tuscanlifedit- Thank you so much for answering the PreRaphaelite question. I will absolutely find the time to visit as many as possible. So sorry to miss Flaming June.
I really love the idea of a concert as well. We did that in Venice and yes it was the Four Seasons, but since we're not well versed in classical music, we really enjoyed it as we are familiar with that piece of Vivaldi . How lovely it would be to attend a concert at Saint Chapelle. Any particular venues that anyone has really loved?
Denise's- We arrive in Paris on my husband's birthday! I knew there was something I liked about you.
Ssander- I hope we have time for Cecil Court. On one of our family trips, we meandered past a bookbinder who also made hand embossed leather covers. It was really interesting to watch. I love handmade work. There is something so admirable about those who still have a passion for doing things the old fashioned way with both care and precision.
Fuzzbucket- I do love museums. Unfortunately I am the only one so I try to be fair to everyone else and not make them suffer unduly. You are always full of terrific information and have already been so helpful with planning for this trip.
If anyone has anything to add, please join in.
Jun 26th, 2016, 10:41 PM
#46
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If you can go to the concert on a sunny evening at Sainte-Chapelle, this might be one of those moments you've been waiting for. If it's at all cloudy or raining, it will not be anywhere near as spectacular.
Have you investigated the covered passages of Paris? Some of them are much more interesting than others. Here's where they are and a bit about them (download the pdf file, it's safe):
http://next.paris.fr/english/visit/p...829_port_25281
Many people don't know that there is a nighttime sound-and-light show at Les Invalides through mid-August. English version is on Monday and Thursday evenings. It's pretty impressive, especially if you have visited parts of the museum during the day.
Have you gone up "the back way" to Montmartre? Get off the Metro at Lamarck-Caulaincourt and start at avenue Junot and make a loop around rue du Mont Cenis (the one with the stairs, for the view), then to rue Saint-Vincent, past Le Lapin Agile, then rue des Saules, for the little cemetery, which will have you back at the same Metro stop.
Have you investigated the covered passages of Paris? Some of them are much more interesting than others. Here's where they are and a bit about them (download the pdf file, it's safe):
http://next.paris.fr/english/visit/p...829_port_25281
Many people don't know that there is a nighttime sound-and-light show at Les Invalides through mid-August. English version is on Monday and Thursday evenings. It's pretty impressive, especially if you have visited parts of the museum during the day.
Have you gone up "the back way" to Montmartre? Get off the Metro at Lamarck-Caulaincourt and start at avenue Junot and make a loop around rue du Mont Cenis (the one with the stairs, for the view), then to rue Saint-Vincent, past Le Lapin Agile, then rue des Saules, for the little cemetery, which will have you back at the same Metro stop.
Jun 27th, 2016, 12:29 AM
#47
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Since Liquid City ( http://amzn.to/28XIZPV ) was mentioned in this thread, I figured I might as well post about it here. I received my copy on Saturday and I have mixed feelings about it. I would not call it a travel guide and I would not call it a a photobook. It is more like a trip report full of B&W photos, some of which are fairly unimpressive. I think definitely does inspire one to go off in search of these places that are shown. I don't regret the purchase.
Jun 27th, 2016, 05:40 AM
#48
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Cjar - I wan't trying to be purposefully obtuse, so apologies if it came across that way.
I think that many moments, especially when travelling, are so situational that it's difficult to replicate them and it's when all the planets align and when you're least expecting it that the magical moments happen.
In any case, here's my suggestion for a trio of ideas that don't get much play on this forum but are all worth a visit, free and can be easily left if they're not what you're after;
Little Britain (not the execrable TV show), St. Bartholomew the great Church and the Postman's Park all in the City of London.
Little Britain has a history (and list of famous former residents) on a par with almost any other street in London, a twelfth century church that survived the dissolution of the monasteries, the blitz and everything in between and a small park that is a wonderful spot to relax and read the glazed Doulton tablets that line one side recounting acts of bravery of Londoners past.
Hope it helps!
I think that many moments, especially when travelling, are so situational that it's difficult to replicate them and it's when all the planets align and when you're least expecting it that the magical moments happen.
In any case, here's my suggestion for a trio of ideas that don't get much play on this forum but are all worth a visit, free and can be easily left if they're not what you're after;
Little Britain (not the execrable TV show), St. Bartholomew the great Church and the Postman's Park all in the City of London.
Little Britain has a history (and list of famous former residents) on a par with almost any other street in London, a twelfth century church that survived the dissolution of the monasteries, the blitz and everything in between and a small park that is a wonderful spot to relax and read the glazed Doulton tablets that line one side recounting acts of bravery of Londoners past.
Hope it helps!
Jun 27th, 2016, 11:37 PM
#49
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Yes, yes, yes to all of your suggestions. I think we'll need to stay at least a month in each city. Too bad that's not possible.
Fuzzbucket- Thank you for the link. I had looked at a couple of websites about the covered passages, but the information was quite general. I look forward to a more thorough investigation. I am easily distracted by the abundance of offerings here.
Jay_G- I never for a moment thought you were being intentionally obtuse and I hope any response I made didn't suggest that. I am grateful for your thoughts, especially the reference library.
I now have a large list of opportunities for magic to happen.
Any thoughts on Palais Garnier? My daughter has been in love with the musical Phatom of the Opera since about the age of 5 so I think the opera house is on her shortlist. I know it's not off the beaten track , but she has her heart set on it , I think. After that she'd be content to drink chocolat chaud and people watch.
Fuzzbucket- Thank you for the link. I had looked at a couple of websites about the covered passages, but the information was quite general. I look forward to a more thorough investigation. I am easily distracted by the abundance of offerings here.
Jay_G- I never for a moment thought you were being intentionally obtuse and I hope any response I made didn't suggest that. I am grateful for your thoughts, especially the reference library.
I now have a large list of opportunities for magic to happen.
Any thoughts on Palais Garnier? My daughter has been in love with the musical Phatom of the Opera since about the age of 5 so I think the opera house is on her shortlist. I know it's not off the beaten track , but she has her heart set on it , I think. After that she'd be content to drink chocolat chaud and people watch.
Jun 27th, 2016, 11:57 PM
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That's the trouble with asking questions like this - you do end up trying to swim through everyone else's dreams : /
As long as your daughter doesn't expect to see an opera at the Opera Garnier, she would probably be ecstatic to go on a tour and visit the gift shop, afterwards.
Then, go just down the block to Cafe de la Paix, sit inside and enjoy hot chocolate. The toilettes are pretty wonderful, too.
As long as your daughter doesn't expect to see an opera at the Opera Garnier, she would probably be ecstatic to go on a tour and visit the gift shop, afterwards.
Then, go just down the block to Cafe de la Paix, sit inside and enjoy hot chocolate. The toilettes are pretty wonderful, too.
Jun 28th, 2016, 06:13 AM
#51
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I love that so many have given so many interesting and different answers. I am the lucky beneficiary of advice for each city's top attractions as well as some places I would have never known about.
Fuzzbucket - Those must be some toilettes to garner a separate mention. You've raised my curiosity.
Fuzzbucket - Those must be some toilettes to garner a separate mention. You've raised my curiosity.
Jul 2nd, 2016, 10:24 AM
#52
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Just found this thread, and want to thank all contributors, and especially Cjar for thinking of it! Going to Paris for my second time and this is very helpful.
St.Cirq wrote: "How about the secret gardens of Paris (my favorite is the scented one)". This really appeals to me, and I can't seem to find which one you mean. I googled, but only found one that comes close, a "medical garden" at the hospital next to Notre Dame. Is that the one?
Merci!
St.Cirq wrote: "How about the secret gardens of Paris (my favorite is the scented one)". This really appeals to me, and I can't seem to find which one you mean. I googled, but only found one that comes close, a "medical garden" at the hospital next to Notre Dame. Is that the one?
Merci!
Jul 2nd, 2016, 01:14 PM
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St. Martin-in the Fields Church, Trafalgar Square has weekday lunchtime concerts (often free with optional donation) plus some evening concerts.
http://www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org
http://www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org
Jul 2nd, 2016, 10:17 PM
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"How lovely it would be to attend a concert at Saint Chapelle. "
Ste Chapelle offers remarkably enjoyable performances of the standards in the Classic FM Hit Parade. Almost as good as the ones on the CDs in your car.
After sunset (as, by early October, all its concerts are) the stained glass is invisible. The chapel, in the dark or by candlelight, is completely devoid of charm or any points of interest. It's infinitely cheaper and more comfortable to sit in your car and listen to the same pieces, though the acoustics are about the same.
Paris has a few other churches with occasional concerts. Google concerts, paris, eglises.
London's got far too much outstanding music played day after day in its churches to faff about with silly stunts like charging people ridiculous premiums to sit and stare at a blacked-out window. Far too much for any website to cover them accurately: again google ("music church, london") is your friend.
In both cities: there really is no point visiting any decent medieval or Wren church by candlelight when most of the things worth looking at are invisible, though between mid May and mid-Aug, evening sunlight through their windows can add a great deal to a concert.
Ste Chapelle offers remarkably enjoyable performances of the standards in the Classic FM Hit Parade. Almost as good as the ones on the CDs in your car.
After sunset (as, by early October, all its concerts are) the stained glass is invisible. The chapel, in the dark or by candlelight, is completely devoid of charm or any points of interest. It's infinitely cheaper and more comfortable to sit in your car and listen to the same pieces, though the acoustics are about the same.
Paris has a few other churches with occasional concerts. Google concerts, paris, eglises.
London's got far too much outstanding music played day after day in its churches to faff about with silly stunts like charging people ridiculous premiums to sit and stare at a blacked-out window. Far too much for any website to cover them accurately: again google ("music church, london") is your friend.
In both cities: there really is no point visiting any decent medieval or Wren church by candlelight when most of the things worth looking at are invisible, though between mid May and mid-Aug, evening sunlight through their windows can add a great deal to a concert.
Jul 2nd, 2016, 11:06 PM
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flanneruk makes a good point - I completely forgot that the visit is planned for October.
In this case, going to Sainte-Chapelle on a sunny morning - without the concert - is a much better idea. I agree that all that beautiful stained glass makes for a lousy acoustical experience for anyone who's really into music.
There are concerts in many other churches which have excellent acoustics, and often feature more interesting programs than the same musicians who travel around town sawing through "The Four Seasons" as fast as they can.
It's become a popular way for churches to raise renovation funding, so many more of them have gotten on the band-wagon. Sadly, most people seem to patronize only a couple of the same churches.
I think I've already mentioned a link to a website which lists all sorts of concerts and spectacles.
In London, I've been to Saint-Martin-in-the-Fields, and enjoyed a few concerts, there. Tickets are pricey - I would definitely buy them in advance, and you should pay the extra money for a cushion, or you'll be sorry. I always sit on the ground level.
Saint James' Church in Piccadilly has hour-long lunchtime concerts 3 days a week, for a suggested donation of around 3 GBP or so. If you happen to be in the neighborhood, anyway, it's a pleasant way to pass some time.
In this case, going to Sainte-Chapelle on a sunny morning - without the concert - is a much better idea. I agree that all that beautiful stained glass makes for a lousy acoustical experience for anyone who's really into music.
There are concerts in many other churches which have excellent acoustics, and often feature more interesting programs than the same musicians who travel around town sawing through "The Four Seasons" as fast as they can.
It's become a popular way for churches to raise renovation funding, so many more of them have gotten on the band-wagon. Sadly, most people seem to patronize only a couple of the same churches.
I think I've already mentioned a link to a website which lists all sorts of concerts and spectacles.
In London, I've been to Saint-Martin-in-the-Fields, and enjoyed a few concerts, there. Tickets are pricey - I would definitely buy them in advance, and you should pay the extra money for a cushion, or you'll be sorry. I always sit on the ground level.
Saint James' Church in Piccadilly has hour-long lunchtime concerts 3 days a week, for a suggested donation of around 3 GBP or so. If you happen to be in the neighborhood, anyway, it's a pleasant way to pass some time.
Jul 4th, 2016, 05:54 AM
#59
Coming late to the thread, but one of my fave walks in London is the foot tunnel under the Thames between Canary Wharf and Greenwich. Pure Victorian fancy, you enter on the Isle of Dogs and emerge next to the Cutty Sark, which takes your breath away. http://gardyloo.us/cutty%20sark%202ab.jpg
http://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/inf...3/foot_tunnels
Then visit the Naval College grounds (spectacular) and maybe have a pint and a plate of whitebait at the Trafalgar Tavern so you can pretend you're Charles Dickens.
https://goo.gl/maps/rbphKshEmY92
http://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/inf...3/foot_tunnels
Then visit the Naval College grounds (spectacular) and maybe have a pint and a plate of whitebait at the Trafalgar Tavern so you can pretend you're Charles Dickens.
https://goo.gl/maps/rbphKshEmY92
Jul 4th, 2016, 06:28 AM
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It seems like many of the good things have been covered. I didn't catch the age of your kids, but one of our favorite things we love in London is a visit to Camden Town.
http://www.visitlondon.com/discover-...FxJPOpGoezR.97
It is a mix of locals and tourists, flea market, canal rides, food stalls, shopping, photo opportunites and lots of people watching. It comes alive on Saturdays and Sundays and is just a blast.
As for other favs - I like the British Museum (and its free) and the free "Beefeater" tour at the Tower of London. With limited time, a hop on hop off tour is a good idea.
http://www.visitlondon.com/discover-...FxJPOpGoezR.97
It is a mix of locals and tourists, flea market, canal rides, food stalls, shopping, photo opportunites and lots of people watching. It comes alive on Saturdays and Sundays and is just a blast.
As for other favs - I like the British Museum (and its free) and the free "Beefeater" tour at the Tower of London. With limited time, a hop on hop off tour is a good idea.
