Grindelwald or Wengen - itinerary help
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 62
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Grindelwald or Wengen - itinerary help
Hi All, I have been reading all the great posts about tours in the bernese oberland area, and to be honest, there seems to be so many great options I am unsure what to do and where to stay. I will be in the area for 3 days / 2 nights.
I arrive in Geneva from the US on a Sunday AM in late september. Plan to take the train with a 3 day swiss pass to oberland area, and hopefully do a little touring on Sunday afternoon. Then all day monday and tuesday and back to Geneva Tuesday night for a business conference.
I really want to see the Eiger. I have read a few books about climbing and want to see it in person.
Is the view to the Eiger better from Grindelwald or Wengen? I am leaning to Wengen since it sounds less crowded and less built up. Is it a good place for Eiger viewing?
I plan monday to do the Jungfrau Noch, and hang out a bit in KS and hopefully be able to view some people actually climbing the north wall. Will this take a full day? Can I combine with Manlichen Cable car, and walk to KS? then catch Jungfrau train from there?
Tuesday possibly Schilthorn, or First cable car, or maybe the Alpinglen to Eiger Glacier station hike?
I am a fairly regular hiker and can handle some strenuous stuff.
What is the best itinerary for a Eiger wanna be?
And hopefully the weather will be great.
Any suggestions?
I arrive in Geneva from the US on a Sunday AM in late september. Plan to take the train with a 3 day swiss pass to oberland area, and hopefully do a little touring on Sunday afternoon. Then all day monday and tuesday and back to Geneva Tuesday night for a business conference.
I really want to see the Eiger. I have read a few books about climbing and want to see it in person.
Is the view to the Eiger better from Grindelwald or Wengen? I am leaning to Wengen since it sounds less crowded and less built up. Is it a good place for Eiger viewing?
I plan monday to do the Jungfrau Noch, and hang out a bit in KS and hopefully be able to view some people actually climbing the north wall. Will this take a full day? Can I combine with Manlichen Cable car, and walk to KS? then catch Jungfrau train from there?
Tuesday possibly Schilthorn, or First cable car, or maybe the Alpinglen to Eiger Glacier station hike?
I am a fairly regular hiker and can handle some strenuous stuff.
What is the best itinerary for a Eiger wanna be?
And hopefully the weather will be great.
Any suggestions?
#2

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,236
Likes: 1
I really enjoyed the hike from Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg. Beautiful scenery and small alpine huts that serve refreshments.
Living here in Switzerland (but no expert on the BO area), I had to smile when I read "Jungfrau Noch". You literally wrote: "still a virgin".
The correct spelling is Jungfraujoch.
Living here in Switzerland (but no expert on the BO area), I had to smile when I read "Jungfrau Noch". You literally wrote: "still a virgin".
The correct spelling is Jungfraujoch.
#3
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,020
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Brollend,
I did the hike from Mannlichen to Kleine Sheidegg, which was beautiful (and fairly easy). You've got the Eiger in front view all the way. There's a lift station in Wengen that takes you to Mannlichen for the trek. Here's a picture I took from the trail:
http://susanbowen.smugmug.com/galler...301_xQdcH-A-LB
Wengen would be a better choice over Grindelwald, but when I return to the area, I'll stay in Murren again, which I believe affords the best, in-your-face views.
I did the hike from Mannlichen to Kleine Sheidegg, which was beautiful (and fairly easy). You've got the Eiger in front view all the way. There's a lift station in Wengen that takes you to Mannlichen for the trek. Here's a picture I took from the trail:
http://susanbowen.smugmug.com/galler...301_xQdcH-A-LB
Wengen would be a better choice over Grindelwald, but when I return to the area, I'll stay in Murren again, which I believe affords the best, in-your-face views.
#4
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,456
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As said above, the trail Männlichen to KLS is really, really a beginner level yet with great view. That alone you can do it in 1 - 1,5hrs so combinning with Jungfraujoch train is easily doable.
Eiger's north face is facing Grindelwald so only for that, Grindewlald is the place. When in Wengen, you don't see Eiger. Wengen's advantages are otherwise.
Eiger's north face is facing Grindelwald so only for that, Grindewlald is the place. When in Wengen, you don't see Eiger. Wengen's advantages are otherwise.
#5
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,456
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I just spoke with a colleague of mine that knows the area bette than me. If the Eiger is that important, you can consider doing the "Eiger Trail" that starts at Eigergletshcher (the railway station just above KLS). You walk beneathe the Eiger North Face to Alpiglen. That will be 2 - 2,5hrs and with a higher difficulty but you shoudn't have a problem. Late September shouldn't be a problem she told me unless there is an exceptionally early snowfall. She also said however, the view on the Männlichen - KLS trail is better as you walk seeing the 3 mountains (Eiger, Mönch and Jungrfrau) in front of you.
I hope I didn't confuse you but in any case there are a few options.
I hope I didn't confuse you but in any case there are a few options.
#7
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 395
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Since you want to see the Eiger up close, I would suggest taking that Eiger North face hike begginning in Alpligen. Getting to Alpligen is quite easy. From Grindlewald, get on the train heading to Kleine Scheidegg, but get off at Alpligen.
Begin the hike right by that restaurant. The walk up is difficult, but the hike provides great views of the Eiger.
I remember on one such hike, I saw this German couple who were watching some climbers on the Eiger. They kept saying; See them? I said, ahhhh no. See them now?? Ahhh, no. Now you see them. Aaaah, well, no.
There are other nice trails that can get you some really good views of the Eiger. Several people have mentioned the Mannlichen to Kleine Schedigee hike. That hike is easy and will get you a god look or two of the Eiger
Even though I had one great view of the Eiger, as good a view without actually climbing the Eiger, I was not close enough to be able to spot climbers without the hubble telescope or something.
You will get great views of the Eiger though
I think it is a fun hike. I had more fun doing this hike than Rosie O Donnel at an all you can eat breakfast buffet
You can also do this hike in reverse. Here is how I have done this version of the hike. From a base in Grindlewald, I took the train to Kleine Schediegg. From Kleine Schidegg, I took the train down to Wengen alps. Get off the train at Wengen Alps. Start the walk up to the Eiger glacier station. Follow the directions of the signs. One trail will take you to Kleine Schedegg, but do not take this trail. Take the trail headed to the Eiger glacier station. Once at the Eiger glacier station, follow the directions on the trail back down to Alpigen. This version of the trail will be downhill back to Alpligen. Not as strenuous, hard on the knees perhaps as you take the steep downward trails, but certainly not strenuous. You will See the same Eiger views.
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Begin the hike right by that restaurant. The walk up is difficult, but the hike provides great views of the Eiger.
I remember on one such hike, I saw this German couple who were watching some climbers on the Eiger. They kept saying; See them? I said, ahhhh no. See them now?? Ahhh, no. Now you see them. Aaaah, well, no.
There are other nice trails that can get you some really good views of the Eiger. Several people have mentioned the Mannlichen to Kleine Schedigee hike. That hike is easy and will get you a god look or two of the Eiger
Even though I had one great view of the Eiger, as good a view without actually climbing the Eiger, I was not close enough to be able to spot climbers without the hubble telescope or something.

You will get great views of the Eiger though
I think it is a fun hike. I had more fun doing this hike than Rosie O Donnel at an all you can eat breakfast buffet
You can also do this hike in reverse. Here is how I have done this version of the hike. From a base in Grindlewald, I took the train to Kleine Schediegg. From Kleine Schidegg, I took the train down to Wengen alps. Get off the train at Wengen Alps. Start the walk up to the Eiger glacier station. Follow the directions of the signs. One trail will take you to Kleine Schedegg, but do not take this trail. Take the trail headed to the Eiger glacier station. Once at the Eiger glacier station, follow the directions on the trail back down to Alpigen. This version of the trail will be downhill back to Alpligen. Not as strenuous, hard on the knees perhaps as you take the steep downward trails, but certainly not strenuous. You will See the same Eiger views.
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#8
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,456
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> Once at the Eiger glacier station, follow the directions on the trail back down to Alpigen. This version of the trail will be downhill back to Alpligen.
That's the "Eiger Trail" that I mentioned above : starting at Eiger Gletscher (= Eiger Glacier station that above poster mentioned) towards Alpiglen. If you are going to the top of Jungfraujoch by chance, then you can do this Eiger Trail on the way down.
That's the "Eiger Trail" that I mentioned above : starting at Eiger Gletscher (= Eiger Glacier station that above poster mentioned) towards Alpiglen. If you are going to the top of Jungfraujoch by chance, then you can do this Eiger Trail on the way down.
#9
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 395
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Kappa, I think we are on the same page here.
One of the reasons I do the Wengenalps part of this trip, is due to the nice views of the Jungfrau and company on the way up to the Eiger glacier station.
I also like to do some uphill walking and I almost feel cheated if I do not do some uphill, but for those that care not for uphill walking, I would certainly do the Eiger train down to Alpliggen.
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One of the reasons I do the Wengenalps part of this trip, is due to the nice views of the Jungfrau and company on the way up to the Eiger glacier station.
I also like to do some uphill walking and I almost feel cheated if I do not do some uphill, but for those that care not for uphill walking, I would certainly do the Eiger train down to Alpliggen.
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#10
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,020
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Wengen and Murren are both car-free villages; that's why I would recommend either of them.
As for the Mannlichen to KS trail, it IS very very easy (fairly flat), but with outstanding views!! The other ones recommended here sound much more challenging, so you might prefer going for those if you're an avid hiker.
Good luck with your decision. In good weather, you'll be in for a treat anywhere in the area.
As for the Mannlichen to KS trail, it IS very very easy (fairly flat), but with outstanding views!! The other ones recommended here sound much more challenging, so you might prefer going for those if you're an avid hiker.
Good luck with your decision. In good weather, you'll be in for a treat anywhere in the area.
#11

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 42,145
Likes: 7
Sorry to hitchhike on this thread...
I've gotten into some trouble on "Bergwegs" vs "Wanderwegs."
I'd like to try some of the walks listed here, but don't want to be walking along a precipice. It's not the degree of difficulty for me but the fear of falling...
Will I be okay?
Thanks!
Sorry Brollend...
gruezi
I've gotten into some trouble on "Bergwegs" vs "Wanderwegs."
I'd like to try some of the walks listed here, but don't want to be walking along a precipice. It's not the degree of difficulty for me but the fear of falling...
Will I be okay?
Thanks!
Sorry Brollend...
gruezi
#12
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,525
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gruezi---neither the Eiger Trail nor the Mannlichen to KS trail has an abrupt precipice where you could fall off. The Eiger trail is steep and rocky in places, and as I recall traverses a talus slope at one point, but the footing is good and I do not remember any scary edge (I too am sensitive to heights and steep drops).
The Manllichen trail is an easy walk on a wide and nearly level path. The Eioger Trail is a real hiking trail, somewhat rugged, but not a "Bergweg" or technical.
brollend---you have gotten great advice on the hikes. For the lodging, if you really want a view of the Eiger from your room or balcony, you should stay in Grindelwald. These hotels promise a direct view of the Eiger North Face from the rooms:
http://www.cabana-grindelwald.ch/
http://www.alfa-hotel.ch/
So does Hotel Walcher, but I can't find the website. You can search for more at www.grindelwald.net
However, those advising you to stay in Wengen because it is a more pleasant village are correct. Wengen is car-free and very charming. You can't see the Eiger from there, but you can see the Jungfrau. The village is perched up on a bench above a lovely valley. Grindelwald sits down in a valley, also with great views of the surrounding mountains---but it is not car-free and can be full of tour busses and tourists.
Wherever you stay, you will have your best views of the North Face from Kleine Scheidegg and the two hiking trails mentinoed above. So unless you want to gaze at the Eiger 24/7 from your room, you might find Wengen more to your liking as a home base.
The Manllichen trail is an easy walk on a wide and nearly level path. The Eioger Trail is a real hiking trail, somewhat rugged, but not a "Bergweg" or technical.
brollend---you have gotten great advice on the hikes. For the lodging, if you really want a view of the Eiger from your room or balcony, you should stay in Grindelwald. These hotels promise a direct view of the Eiger North Face from the rooms:
http://www.cabana-grindelwald.ch/
http://www.alfa-hotel.ch/
So does Hotel Walcher, but I can't find the website. You can search for more at www.grindelwald.net
However, those advising you to stay in Wengen because it is a more pleasant village are correct. Wengen is car-free and very charming. You can't see the Eiger from there, but you can see the Jungfrau. The village is perched up on a bench above a lovely valley. Grindelwald sits down in a valley, also with great views of the surrounding mountains---but it is not car-free and can be full of tour busses and tourists.
Wherever you stay, you will have your best views of the North Face from Kleine Scheidegg and the two hiking trails mentinoed above. So unless you want to gaze at the Eiger 24/7 from your room, you might find Wengen more to your liking as a home base.
#14
Original Poster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 62
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Thanks all for the great advice.
Are there any Hostels in Wengen? I have seen some reviews for a couple in Grindelwald, but haven't seen any in Wengen.
I am leaning to wengen due to car free and less buses and tourists.
Thanks again!
Are there any Hostels in Wengen? I have seen some reviews for a couple in Grindelwald, but haven't seen any in Wengen.
I am leaning to wengen due to car free and less buses and tourists.
Thanks again!
#15
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,525
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You might try the Bernerhof on this list:
http://www.wengen.com/hotels.html
They have "tourist" rooms with simple furnishings and bathroom down the hall, as well as dormitory beds (Matratzenlager).
The mountain hotels (Berghotels) usually have simple rooms and Matratzenlager as well. These are not in the village but up above.
http://www.wengen.com/hotels.html
They have "tourist" rooms with simple furnishings and bathroom down the hall, as well as dormitory beds (Matratzenlager).
The mountain hotels (Berghotels) usually have simple rooms and Matratzenlager as well. These are not in the village but up above.
#16
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,525
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There are several places around this area with information and displays on the Eiger ascents. One is a large sign at Kleine Scheidegg, showing the various routes. You can see them on the board and then find them on the rock face, which is right in front of you.
And we found an interesting collection of old equipment and memorabilia from one of the early climbs---it might have been by a Japanese team. This was in the cablecar station over at Gimmelwald, if I remember correctly.
And we found an interesting collection of old equipment and memorabilia from one of the early climbs---it might have been by a Japanese team. This was in the cablecar station over at Gimmelwald, if I remember correctly.
#20
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 131
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We have been in this region twice and did a hike to village itinerary the first time-Grindewald-Wengen-Muerren.
We just returned from our 2nd trip and stayed 3 days Grindelwald and 3 days Muerren and had a fabulous time.
What you need to know is that Muerren and Grindelwald are different regional train passes and if you are not staying 6 days to make the $195 pass worthwhile( x 2), each of the trams or trains get expensive with the dollar and the exchange rate on a per ride basis.
Next time, we will stay in Wengen to be in the middle, buy one pass-and see it all. You can easily take a tram to Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen and/or Muerren, Gimmelwald, Top of Europe, Shilthorn etc.
We had a lovely trip, but when you have to pay $100 for each tram ride for two people, it gets expensive. Lucky for us we can do lots of hiking.
By the way, they didn't check our passes to Alpiglen-it's a nice train ride to reduce the elevation gain up to Kleine Sheidegg.
Also, we stayed at Hotel Alpenruh( Muerren) for the 2nd time-it's great and you can have one of your breakfasts at the Shilthorn which is totally worthwhile.
For meals in Muerren-try Hotel Blementhal-that one was my favorite.
In Grindelwald we stayed at Hotel Gleitshergarten-they were terrific-it is a bit of a jaunt from the train but Gary will give you a ride and he is prompt!
We also enjoyed the served dinner there-it was wonderful and good value!
I do tons of research before a journey, as does the hubster on the hike side of things, so just let me know if you have questions.
Oncle Tom's Cabin in Grindelwald is an excellent place for a cheap meal-great pizza!
PS You can see the Eiger from either of these places-for a quieter car free town, pick Wengen or Muerren. Gimmelwald is cute but it's all farm homes and no restaurants, so you need to get meals included if you stay there.
Don't expect any night life in Wengen or Muerren-we loved having wine and cheese in our room, looking at the view, and watching the olympics after a fabulous day of hiking.
PS Yes, you can take a train from Wengen up to Mannlichen and then do a hike called 'romantik walk' to Kleine Sheidegg and then go to Top of Europe. If you are not buying a pass since you are not there long enough to make it worth your while, try the early bird discounted Top of Europe train ride-it will still cost you about $100-$125 per person.
I have done a ton of research on this forum....and I am happy to help with questions.
I stayed several years ago at Hotel Alpenrose in Wengen-it was fabulous although the rooms are small.
Bottom line-we liked Grindelwald for the hike variety and it was easy access for our return home via Zurich, but for us, we prefer Wengen or Muerren...two-three days in either of these places is about right. The cost of the train to Mannlichen from Grindelwald was 51 CHF per person round trip-yikes!! You will find a similar cost from Wengen I'm sure. We found the tram costs up to Muerren were more affordable and we skipped Top of Europe at $250 per couple-we didn't have a eurail pass that would discount the cost.
Also, none of this is as confusing as it may sound. If you are tired of hiking, hop on a tram, just be willing to shell out a few bucks to do it. It's an adult disneyland up there-you'll have a fabulous time!
I'm from Oregon, so we don't have big mountain ranges to look at-just Mt Hood. If you stay in Grindelwald, Muerren or Wengen, you'll have plenty of mountain 'eye candy' to look at anywhere you stay. We prefer a 3 star hotel with a view, as opposed to something fancier with no view.
We just returned from our 2nd trip and stayed 3 days Grindelwald and 3 days Muerren and had a fabulous time.
What you need to know is that Muerren and Grindelwald are different regional train passes and if you are not staying 6 days to make the $195 pass worthwhile( x 2), each of the trams or trains get expensive with the dollar and the exchange rate on a per ride basis.
Next time, we will stay in Wengen to be in the middle, buy one pass-and see it all. You can easily take a tram to Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen and/or Muerren, Gimmelwald, Top of Europe, Shilthorn etc.
We had a lovely trip, but when you have to pay $100 for each tram ride for two people, it gets expensive. Lucky for us we can do lots of hiking.
By the way, they didn't check our passes to Alpiglen-it's a nice train ride to reduce the elevation gain up to Kleine Sheidegg.
Also, we stayed at Hotel Alpenruh( Muerren) for the 2nd time-it's great and you can have one of your breakfasts at the Shilthorn which is totally worthwhile.
For meals in Muerren-try Hotel Blementhal-that one was my favorite.
In Grindelwald we stayed at Hotel Gleitshergarten-they were terrific-it is a bit of a jaunt from the train but Gary will give you a ride and he is prompt!
We also enjoyed the served dinner there-it was wonderful and good value!
I do tons of research before a journey, as does the hubster on the hike side of things, so just let me know if you have questions.
Oncle Tom's Cabin in Grindelwald is an excellent place for a cheap meal-great pizza!
PS You can see the Eiger from either of these places-for a quieter car free town, pick Wengen or Muerren. Gimmelwald is cute but it's all farm homes and no restaurants, so you need to get meals included if you stay there.
Don't expect any night life in Wengen or Muerren-we loved having wine and cheese in our room, looking at the view, and watching the olympics after a fabulous day of hiking.
PS Yes, you can take a train from Wengen up to Mannlichen and then do a hike called 'romantik walk' to Kleine Sheidegg and then go to Top of Europe. If you are not buying a pass since you are not there long enough to make it worth your while, try the early bird discounted Top of Europe train ride-it will still cost you about $100-$125 per person.
I have done a ton of research on this forum....and I am happy to help with questions.
I stayed several years ago at Hotel Alpenrose in Wengen-it was fabulous although the rooms are small.
Bottom line-we liked Grindelwald for the hike variety and it was easy access for our return home via Zurich, but for us, we prefer Wengen or Muerren...two-three days in either of these places is about right. The cost of the train to Mannlichen from Grindelwald was 51 CHF per person round trip-yikes!! You will find a similar cost from Wengen I'm sure. We found the tram costs up to Muerren were more affordable and we skipped Top of Europe at $250 per couple-we didn't have a eurail pass that would discount the cost.
Also, none of this is as confusing as it may sound. If you are tired of hiking, hop on a tram, just be willing to shell out a few bucks to do it. It's an adult disneyland up there-you'll have a fabulous time!
I'm from Oregon, so we don't have big mountain ranges to look at-just Mt Hood. If you stay in Grindelwald, Muerren or Wengen, you'll have plenty of mountain 'eye candy' to look at anywhere you stay. We prefer a 3 star hotel with a view, as opposed to something fancier with no view.

