Greece with the Gals
Jul 12th, 2023, 08:30 AM
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Greece with the Gals
Back in 2019, I had some dreams, y'all. My travel squad and I had planned a fantastic trip to Greece that was to take place in May 2020. We'd booked the perfect AirBnbs and all of our flights, and I was putting the screws to our itinerary when March 2020 happened. The pandemic roared across the world, everything shut down, and we tearfully cancelled all of our arrangements.
Some members of our group have high risk factors, and the international travel scene was in serious flux for an extended period of time. However, we vowed to try again when the time was right. And this May, three years later, it finally happened!
Days 1 and 2
We left the Jackson, Mississippi, airport around noonish in high spirits. We got to Dallas, where we successfully made our connecting flight from London. After a 9-hour flight, it was re-checking bags, going through security again, etc., in a dash to make our final flight from London to Athens. When we landed, we were about to drop from exhaustion, but we claimed our baggage, caught a cab, and made it to our first Athens AirBnb. This rental was ideal. It's located just on the edge of the Plaka, practically across the street from the National Gardens. It's very roomy, completely renovated, and has some lovely balcony space. The host met us at check-in to walk us through the unit, which she'd thoughtfully stocked with fruit, bread, jam, coffee, tea and other breakfast items. This place was simply a joy to stay in, and I'd highly recommend it if you are looking for multiple bedrooms in the city.
We had been set to arrive in Athens at 2:30 p.m. on Day 2 of our trip. I'd initially planned for us to visit the Acropolis Museum on our first afternoon in town before dinner and bed. However, our final flight had been delayed an hour or two, and we were WIPED. Instead, we decided to have dinner close to the rental and hit the hay.
We found a lovely meal and comforting staff at The Grande Dame, just down the street from our apartment. Flower-festooned tables (lilies everywhere!), antique Greek china, and delicious (and affordable) food. We ordered liberally: sea bass with risotto, shrimp with saganaki, tzatziki, greek salads, French fries, bread with olives, Greek wine, just all kinds of goodness.
Plates kept coming to the table and we ate until we were veryvery full. (In general, we found the food in Athens to be both very good and very affordable, including cocktails and wine. Ditto with our AirBnb rentals. A thrifty traveler can live very well here.) Then, it was a few steps back to the rental, where we showered and fell into a deep, deep sleep.
Day 3
We awoke on our first morning refreshed. The day was cloudy and slightly cool, and it was May 1 - Labour Day in Greece. This meant that many attractions were closed for the day. We'd learned of this ahead of time, however, and planned accordingly. After a pleasant breakfast at the rental (We loved opening the big balcony doors in the morning to let the fresh air in and listen to the city slowly wake up.), we donned our walking attire and headed for Lycebettus Hill. It was a beautiful 20-minute walk from our rental to the foot of the hill, and we passed views of the acropolis, tons of orange and fig trees (growing right by the side of the road), lots of sweet kitties (We found street cats all over Greece.), and intriguing shop windows.
Then, we arrived at the Teleferik. According to its website, the Teleferik (which takes visitors up to the top of Lycabettus) runs 365 days a year, and we were not disappointed! We bought tickets for three (something like 7 Euros per person) and headed up! Worth noting - there are no views from the Teleferik, as it goes up *through* the mountain. We'd decided to ride it up and then walk down the hill for the views in order to get the best of both worlds.
It was a quick ride up, and then we were treated to a panoramic view of Athens spread out beneath us. Even in the cloud cover, it was beautiful. From above, you could make out the National Garden (and thus, our rental) and its location in relation to the Acropolis (which is high on a hill and viewable all over the city). I find that getting a bird's-eye view of any location early in the trip is quite helpful for navigating and orienting yourself later on, especially when you're often traveling on foot.
According to mythology, the hill appeared when Athena threw/dropped a rock she was carrying. She was initially using the rock to help build her temple at the Acropolis, but a raven brought her some bad news, and she tossed the rock in anger or frustration. (Testy ones, those ancient gods.)
At the top of the hill, you can find the church of Agios Georgios, which dates back to 1870. There's also a little cafe with wonderful views from the highest point in Athens. We found tons of wildflowers on our way up, as well as tons of cats! We found cats everywhere in Greece. They are street cats, but the community is obviously taking care of them. (You'd often find food and water dishes, as well as sleeping boxes, stowed discreetly behind bushes or structures. And people were obviously replenishing the water and food.) The cats ranged from well-kept to a bit mangy, but almost all of them permitted the occasional stroke.
We enjoyed the views and made our way down the hill on foot. We'd over-ordered at dinner the night before, so we headed back to our rental for a bit to eat leftovers for lunch and cool our heels. Then, it was a short hop to the National Garden, which was also open and quite lively. The garden covers some 60 acres and was completed in 1840 for Queen Amalia, wife of King Otto. We loved exploring its tree-lined paths, examining some of the blooms more closely (We used the Seek app often to identify varieties, many of which also grow in our own area.), and stumbling upon statuary and water attractions. As it was spring, tons of flowers were in bloom, including wisteria, poppies, and jasmine. We also caught a few Evzones, members of the Greek presidential guard, in front of the presidential residence, which borders the garden on one side.
We ended our exploring in this area by walking a couple of additional blocks to admire Hadrian's Arch. The marble arch lies on an ancient street that led from the old city of Athens to the new section (which was built by Hadrian). Built in A.D. 132 of marble, the arch features two inscriptions, one on each side. The first, on the side towards the Acropolis, reads "This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus." The second, on the side facing the new city, reads "This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus."
After looking and learning here, it was back to the rental to freshen up for dinner. I'd made us a reservations at Athens Gate Restaurant. Their rooftop location offers fantastic views of the Acropolis, and I wanted to treat our group to a view of the sunset over the monument and then a vantage point for watching the ruins as they were lit up for the evening.
We were not disappointed! We were seated immediately, and then we enjoyed a leisurely dinner and gorgeous views. We started with breads, dips and drinks, and then I moved on to a dish of lamb. I capped it off with the restaurant's non-traditional take on baklava and a decaf coffee. Our table happened to be facing the ruins, so we could observe the sunset and the transition to evening. It was glorious! So pretty and hard to tear your eyes away from.
Sated, we walked back to the rental and went to bed!
Day 4
This was a big, big day! We had skip-the-line tickets for the Acropolis! We awoke fairly early and had breakfast at the rental. Everything we'd read about visiting the Acropolis advised visitors to get there right when the attraction opened at 8 a.m., so we showered, ate, and got moving early. We walked through a lovely section of the Plaka and arrived at the Acropolis entrance at about 8:05 a.m. We had a skip-the-line ticket that I'd bought in advance from Get Your Guide online. This ticket gets you into the Acropolis as well as several nearby Agora sites, and I'd highly recommend it.
We went through the quick line to get in and headed for the top of the hill. (Even in early May, and at 8 a.m., visitors should be prepared for a trek. The hill is steep, and the sun is hot. Dress for movement, wear sunscreen and a hat, put your hair up, etc. It's a bit of a hoof.) When we got there, the blue sky cupped over the most striking and complete Ancient Greek monumental complex that still exists.
The site is large, and it can be overwhelming. Before our trip, we'd downloaded some free audio guides of the site from the Rick Steves Travel Europe app. These short guides, which allow you to explore at your own pace, were very helpful for navigating the site and understanding what you were looking at.
The scale and age of this site is mind-boggling. There has been human activity on this hill since the Neolithic Period (4000 B.C.), and it has by turns been the home of fortresses, temples, churches, and governments. Sweeping views fan out on all sides of the site, and, even during our visit, preservation crews were hard at work to maintain this UNESCO Heritage Site for future generations.
After getting our fill of the Acropolis, we started to head back down the hill. Along the way, we saw Areopagus Hill, an outcropping of dark rock. Like most places in Athens, Areopagus Hill has been many things and served many purposes. Homicide trials are thought to have been held here as early as the 7th century B.C., and the outcropping later became a residential area.
We continued on towards the Agora. The wide paved path from the Acropolis will take you past the major Agora sites, and our skip-the-line combo ticket got us into all of them.
Next up, we stopped by Hadrian's Library, and then we ended at the Ancient Agora, where we climbed up to the Temple of Hephaestus and petted all of the stray cats. We also loved the reproduction of the Stoa Attalos, where we accessed the second floor to view exhibits, catch breezes, and see the site from a different vantage point.
By this time, our feet were aching for a break. We walked about a block off the main drag and found a perfect little cafe for lunch. (Throughout our trip, Susan was an absolute sucker for a restaurant with a young, handsome busker out front. Luckily, we found that it doesn't matter too much where you eat in Greece. The food we had was uniformly good.) We feasted on fried calamari, Greek salad, and bread.
We'd already stayed too long and eaten too much when we decided to ask for the check. I ran to the ladies room while we waited for it to arrive. When I returned to the table, not only did I find no check, but I found complimentary wine and honey cake! Over and over during our trip to Greece, this happened. We'd order, have a lovely meal, linger just a bit, and then tell our waiter that we were ready to leave. Then, our waiter would look very sad. He would tell us that we should consider getting another drink or a dessert or some coffee. Then, if we refused, these items would often arrive at our table for free. Perhaps a glass of wine or a shot of ouzo or a dessert. This happened several times during our vacation. The hospitality of this country is completely charming.
After lunch, we wandered the shops and antique stalls of the Monastiraki area, stopping in the square to rest our legs and people watch a bit. Then, it was time for our next activity - steam baths and massages at the Hammam Bathing House. We'd all booked the Ali Mama package, which included a 30-minute stint in the hammam and a 30-minute massage.
We arrived on time for our appointments, then changed into our swimsuits. Next, we spent 30 minutes in the hammam, which was an oval-shaped room made of marble. There was a rounded, built-in marble bench all along its perimeter, and a marble, oval pedestal in its center. All of the marble was heated, and there were small sets of faucets at regular intervals. Guests used these faucets and small personal basins to occasionally douse themselves with cold, hot, or tepid water. I worried that I'd get overheated, but after all of the day's climbing, it was quite lovely to lie on the center pedestal and stretch my legs to the ceiling, which not only lengthened my leg muscles, but also pressed my lower back into the hot marble. Divine.
After 30 minutes in the hammam, it was time for our service. We started with exfoliation, then a massage with foam from olive oil soap. They even washed your hair. At the end of the treatment, they doused you with progressively cooler water. When your service was finished, you were bundled up in clean towels and led to a lounge, where they presented you with Turkish delight and hot tea. After relaxing a bit, you could use their facilities to dry your hair, moisturize, and otherwise get ready to go back out into the world.
This was a very unique experience and unlike any other spa treatment I'd ever received. (And, at 55 Euros, a complete deal.) I would highly recommend it!
We caught a cab back to our rental, ate a few snacks, and hit the hay!
More to come . . .
Some members of our group have high risk factors, and the international travel scene was in serious flux for an extended period of time. However, we vowed to try again when the time was right. And this May, three years later, it finally happened!
Days 1 and 2
We left the Jackson, Mississippi, airport around noonish in high spirits. We got to Dallas, where we successfully made our connecting flight from London. After a 9-hour flight, it was re-checking bags, going through security again, etc., in a dash to make our final flight from London to Athens. When we landed, we were about to drop from exhaustion, but we claimed our baggage, caught a cab, and made it to our first Athens AirBnb. This rental was ideal. It's located just on the edge of the Plaka, practically across the street from the National Gardens. It's very roomy, completely renovated, and has some lovely balcony space. The host met us at check-in to walk us through the unit, which she'd thoughtfully stocked with fruit, bread, jam, coffee, tea and other breakfast items. This place was simply a joy to stay in, and I'd highly recommend it if you are looking for multiple bedrooms in the city.
We had been set to arrive in Athens at 2:30 p.m. on Day 2 of our trip. I'd initially planned for us to visit the Acropolis Museum on our first afternoon in town before dinner and bed. However, our final flight had been delayed an hour or two, and we were WIPED. Instead, we decided to have dinner close to the rental and hit the hay.
We found a lovely meal and comforting staff at The Grande Dame, just down the street from our apartment. Flower-festooned tables (lilies everywhere!), antique Greek china, and delicious (and affordable) food. We ordered liberally: sea bass with risotto, shrimp with saganaki, tzatziki, greek salads, French fries, bread with olives, Greek wine, just all kinds of goodness.
Plates kept coming to the table and we ate until we were veryvery full. (In general, we found the food in Athens to be both very good and very affordable, including cocktails and wine. Ditto with our AirBnb rentals. A thrifty traveler can live very well here.) Then, it was a few steps back to the rental, where we showered and fell into a deep, deep sleep.
Day 3
We awoke on our first morning refreshed. The day was cloudy and slightly cool, and it was May 1 - Labour Day in Greece. This meant that many attractions were closed for the day. We'd learned of this ahead of time, however, and planned accordingly. After a pleasant breakfast at the rental (We loved opening the big balcony doors in the morning to let the fresh air in and listen to the city slowly wake up.), we donned our walking attire and headed for Lycebettus Hill. It was a beautiful 20-minute walk from our rental to the foot of the hill, and we passed views of the acropolis, tons of orange and fig trees (growing right by the side of the road), lots of sweet kitties (We found street cats all over Greece.), and intriguing shop windows.
Then, we arrived at the Teleferik. According to its website, the Teleferik (which takes visitors up to the top of Lycabettus) runs 365 days a year, and we were not disappointed! We bought tickets for three (something like 7 Euros per person) and headed up! Worth noting - there are no views from the Teleferik, as it goes up *through* the mountain. We'd decided to ride it up and then walk down the hill for the views in order to get the best of both worlds.
It was a quick ride up, and then we were treated to a panoramic view of Athens spread out beneath us. Even in the cloud cover, it was beautiful. From above, you could make out the National Garden (and thus, our rental) and its location in relation to the Acropolis (which is high on a hill and viewable all over the city). I find that getting a bird's-eye view of any location early in the trip is quite helpful for navigating and orienting yourself later on, especially when you're often traveling on foot.
According to mythology, the hill appeared when Athena threw/dropped a rock she was carrying. She was initially using the rock to help build her temple at the Acropolis, but a raven brought her some bad news, and she tossed the rock in anger or frustration. (Testy ones, those ancient gods.)
At the top of the hill, you can find the church of Agios Georgios, which dates back to 1870. There's also a little cafe with wonderful views from the highest point in Athens. We found tons of wildflowers on our way up, as well as tons of cats! We found cats everywhere in Greece. They are street cats, but the community is obviously taking care of them. (You'd often find food and water dishes, as well as sleeping boxes, stowed discreetly behind bushes or structures. And people were obviously replenishing the water and food.) The cats ranged from well-kept to a bit mangy, but almost all of them permitted the occasional stroke.
We enjoyed the views and made our way down the hill on foot. We'd over-ordered at dinner the night before, so we headed back to our rental for a bit to eat leftovers for lunch and cool our heels. Then, it was a short hop to the National Garden, which was also open and quite lively. The garden covers some 60 acres and was completed in 1840 for Queen Amalia, wife of King Otto. We loved exploring its tree-lined paths, examining some of the blooms more closely (We used the Seek app often to identify varieties, many of which also grow in our own area.), and stumbling upon statuary and water attractions. As it was spring, tons of flowers were in bloom, including wisteria, poppies, and jasmine. We also caught a few Evzones, members of the Greek presidential guard, in front of the presidential residence, which borders the garden on one side.
We ended our exploring in this area by walking a couple of additional blocks to admire Hadrian's Arch. The marble arch lies on an ancient street that led from the old city of Athens to the new section (which was built by Hadrian). Built in A.D. 132 of marble, the arch features two inscriptions, one on each side. The first, on the side towards the Acropolis, reads "This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus." The second, on the side facing the new city, reads "This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus."
After looking and learning here, it was back to the rental to freshen up for dinner. I'd made us a reservations at Athens Gate Restaurant. Their rooftop location offers fantastic views of the Acropolis, and I wanted to treat our group to a view of the sunset over the monument and then a vantage point for watching the ruins as they were lit up for the evening.
We were not disappointed! We were seated immediately, and then we enjoyed a leisurely dinner and gorgeous views. We started with breads, dips and drinks, and then I moved on to a dish of lamb. I capped it off with the restaurant's non-traditional take on baklava and a decaf coffee. Our table happened to be facing the ruins, so we could observe the sunset and the transition to evening. It was glorious! So pretty and hard to tear your eyes away from.
Sated, we walked back to the rental and went to bed!
Day 4
This was a big, big day! We had skip-the-line tickets for the Acropolis! We awoke fairly early and had breakfast at the rental. Everything we'd read about visiting the Acropolis advised visitors to get there right when the attraction opened at 8 a.m., so we showered, ate, and got moving early. We walked through a lovely section of the Plaka and arrived at the Acropolis entrance at about 8:05 a.m. We had a skip-the-line ticket that I'd bought in advance from Get Your Guide online. This ticket gets you into the Acropolis as well as several nearby Agora sites, and I'd highly recommend it.
We went through the quick line to get in and headed for the top of the hill. (Even in early May, and at 8 a.m., visitors should be prepared for a trek. The hill is steep, and the sun is hot. Dress for movement, wear sunscreen and a hat, put your hair up, etc. It's a bit of a hoof.) When we got there, the blue sky cupped over the most striking and complete Ancient Greek monumental complex that still exists.
The site is large, and it can be overwhelming. Before our trip, we'd downloaded some free audio guides of the site from the Rick Steves Travel Europe app. These short guides, which allow you to explore at your own pace, were very helpful for navigating the site and understanding what you were looking at.
The scale and age of this site is mind-boggling. There has been human activity on this hill since the Neolithic Period (4000 B.C.), and it has by turns been the home of fortresses, temples, churches, and governments. Sweeping views fan out on all sides of the site, and, even during our visit, preservation crews were hard at work to maintain this UNESCO Heritage Site for future generations.
After getting our fill of the Acropolis, we started to head back down the hill. Along the way, we saw Areopagus Hill, an outcropping of dark rock. Like most places in Athens, Areopagus Hill has been many things and served many purposes. Homicide trials are thought to have been held here as early as the 7th century B.C., and the outcropping later became a residential area.
We continued on towards the Agora. The wide paved path from the Acropolis will take you past the major Agora sites, and our skip-the-line combo ticket got us into all of them.
Next up, we stopped by Hadrian's Library, and then we ended at the Ancient Agora, where we climbed up to the Temple of Hephaestus and petted all of the stray cats. We also loved the reproduction of the Stoa Attalos, where we accessed the second floor to view exhibits, catch breezes, and see the site from a different vantage point.
By this time, our feet were aching for a break. We walked about a block off the main drag and found a perfect little cafe for lunch. (Throughout our trip, Susan was an absolute sucker for a restaurant with a young, handsome busker out front. Luckily, we found that it doesn't matter too much where you eat in Greece. The food we had was uniformly good.) We feasted on fried calamari, Greek salad, and bread.
We'd already stayed too long and eaten too much when we decided to ask for the check. I ran to the ladies room while we waited for it to arrive. When I returned to the table, not only did I find no check, but I found complimentary wine and honey cake! Over and over during our trip to Greece, this happened. We'd order, have a lovely meal, linger just a bit, and then tell our waiter that we were ready to leave. Then, our waiter would look very sad. He would tell us that we should consider getting another drink or a dessert or some coffee. Then, if we refused, these items would often arrive at our table for free. Perhaps a glass of wine or a shot of ouzo or a dessert. This happened several times during our vacation. The hospitality of this country is completely charming.
After lunch, we wandered the shops and antique stalls of the Monastiraki area, stopping in the square to rest our legs and people watch a bit. Then, it was time for our next activity - steam baths and massages at the Hammam Bathing House. We'd all booked the Ali Mama package, which included a 30-minute stint in the hammam and a 30-minute massage.
We arrived on time for our appointments, then changed into our swimsuits. Next, we spent 30 minutes in the hammam, which was an oval-shaped room made of marble. There was a rounded, built-in marble bench all along its perimeter, and a marble, oval pedestal in its center. All of the marble was heated, and there were small sets of faucets at regular intervals. Guests used these faucets and small personal basins to occasionally douse themselves with cold, hot, or tepid water. I worried that I'd get overheated, but after all of the day's climbing, it was quite lovely to lie on the center pedestal and stretch my legs to the ceiling, which not only lengthened my leg muscles, but also pressed my lower back into the hot marble. Divine.
After 30 minutes in the hammam, it was time for our service. We started with exfoliation, then a massage with foam from olive oil soap. They even washed your hair. At the end of the treatment, they doused you with progressively cooler water. When your service was finished, you were bundled up in clean towels and led to a lounge, where they presented you with Turkish delight and hot tea. After relaxing a bit, you could use their facilities to dry your hair, moisturize, and otherwise get ready to go back out into the world.
This was a very unique experience and unlike any other spa treatment I'd ever received. (And, at 55 Euros, a complete deal.) I would highly recommend it!
We caught a cab back to our rental, ate a few snacks, and hit the hay!
More to come . . .
Jul 12th, 2023, 08:36 AM
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Day 5
Because we basically ate snacks for dinner the night before, I awoke hungry! Luckily, our rental was located in the Plaka, so we were never more than a few steps away from some delicious options. While Shawn and Susan slept in, I went in search of something tasty.
I found an al fresco cafe that was already open and settled in for a Mediterranean omelette (tons of veggies and feta cheese) and a big cappuccino. As I enjoyed my breakfast, I watched the little square wake up around me: tourists beginning to stir and stroll, other restaurants stocking items and unfurling their awnings, Athenians hurrying off to work. Just beautiful.
Well sated, I pointed my footsteps toward my next attraction: the Panathenaic Stadium. The current facility, which is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble, sits on the site of an ancient stadium where games have been held for centuries. In some of the earliest games, nude male athletes competed in track events. (Chafing, apparently, was a minor concern when weighed against possibly dying in bloody gladiatorial duels or contests with wild beasts.)
On the day I visited, there were games being played! It looked like some sort of adult intramural relay, and then in another section, groups of school children were doing field-day exercises. Visitors had the run of the rest of the place, though. You could walk sections of the large track, clamber up to nearly every stadium seat there, take the underground tunnel to the small interior museum (where many of Greece's Olympic torches are on display) and gift shop, and even stand on the winners' podium!
This was a fun, quick visit, and I really enjoyed it.
Afterwards, I popped back by the rental to pick up Susan and Shawn for lunch. We headed for The Clumsies, which Shawn had spotted on the New York Times' list of the world's best bars. This ended up being a GREAT stop. It was noon-ish, so the bar wasn't overly full. We were quickly seated. We were delighted by the bar's whimsical drink menu, and we ordered refreshing spritzes to start. Then, we moved on to bar food. I chose the sliders, Susan got pizza, and Shawn had the ke-bao bun. Once the plates were delivered, we all shared entrees, and all of the food was delicious. We loved the vibe here, and our waiter spent a lot of time talking with us about the bar, the ingredients they use to make their cocktails and food, and the philosophy of the place. Wonderful.
Next up - some museum time! Athens has so many world-class museums, and we didn't get the chance to give them their due during our short stay in town. (It's odd. When we told fellow Americans we'd be staying in Athens for four days, they all asked us, "Why so long?" Honestly, we could have stayed there for much longer. We barely scratched the surface of all there is to do.) On this afternoon, though, we headed to the National Archaeological Museum.
What a wonder! During the next 3 hours or so, we strolled through galleries featuring masterpieces of the world's great civilizations. The museum's Neolithic, Cycladic, and Mycenaean collections are very impressive, but so is their Egyptian exhibit. Gorgeous sculpture hid around every corner, and I loved some of their ancient gold jewelry. When we were ready for a break, we got lemonades from the museum cafe and enjoyed them at an open-air table in the facility's beautiful, shaded courtyard.
After enjoying the museum, we walked back to our rental. Along the way, we stopped by some gorgeous sweet shops and picked up things to sample - baklava, cookies, etc. - and munched on them in the rental.
Day 6
The next day was a big one - we were flying to Santorini! We had a quick breakfast at the rental and packed up. Our AirBnb host was kind enough to arrange a cab for us from the rental to the airport, and we enjoyed a lively conversation with Spiro, our driver, enroute.
Spiro had traveled all over Europe and was married to a Swiss woman. When Susan professed her desire to visit Switzerland and asked Spiro his opinion of the country, he hesitated, then said, "Switzerland . . . is a good country to die in. It is very boring. There is nothing to do there."
We about died laughing. Several times during our trip, someone we came into contact with would say something that tickled us. We started calling them "Greekisms" and began keeping track of them!
At any rate, we got to the airport, checked in for our flight, and made the 1-hour trip to the Santorini airport. Our AirBnb host in Santorini had kindly worked with us to arrange a driver to pick us up at the airport and get us to our rental. When we pulled in, a whole crew of young Greek guys were waiting to welcome us, show us the rental, tote our luggage in (Santorini is full of narrow, cobbled streets and tons of steps. There is no driving right up to your rental, particularly in Oia, where we were staying.), and otherwise assist.
For our next four days in Oia, this group of folks would provide us with invaluable assistance, as getting around the island takes some doing.
So, a quick Santorini overview - The island is a crescent shape and curves around the caldera. The caldera is a cauldron-like volcanic depression that collapsed after a volcanic eruption during the Minoan civilization and is now filled with gorgeous blue water.
There are really only a few places where it makes sense for tourists without a car on the island to stay - Oia (where we stayed - quieter, best sunset views; on the northern tip of the crescent of the island), Fira (bigger city, noisier and more crowded, but more restaurants, shops, and nightlife; nestled in the inner curve of the crescent of the island) or Imerovigli (Fira adjacent).
The ride from Oia to Fira is about half an hour by car. We didn't really want to drive on the island. (I'd tried driving in a foreign country when our family went to Mexico shortly before the pandemic hit. It wasn't hard, but it was stressful.) We'd chosen to stay in Oia (We're not much for nightlife.) and taxi into Fira a couple of times to explore.
That afternoon, however, we didn't do too much. We got settled into our rental, but the weather was chilly and rainy. We walked a bit and had a nice dinner (seafood linguine - yum!) at Strogili. Then, it was back to the rental for an early bedtime. (We'd hoped for one of Santorini's dazzling sunsets tonight, but with the rain, that was obviously a non-starter.)
Day 7
The next morning was overcast, but thankfully not rainy. We'd originally thought today would be a hiking day, but considering the sky, we decided to spend our time exploring in Oia and Fira. We had a nice breakfast at the rental and headed out, starting by walking the cobblestoned streets of Oia around our rental.
There are a few historic windmills in Oia (previously used to grind flour) that no longer function but have been preserved for the picturesque quality they lend to the landscape. There's also a ruined castle worth checking out in Oia. There was a period of history during which Oia was the target of pirates. Locals used the fortified castle to protect valuables and food stores during such attacks. The castle was ruined during an earthquake, but its remains are still moodily clinging to the cliff and are a great place for views and sunsets. (Our rental was situated squarely between the windmill and the castle, so we had an easy time locating both.)
Just wandering in this area is nice. There are tons of shops and restaurants, in addition to stunning views (even in the clouds) around random corners. There are several blue-domed churches in Oia that are hot spots for photos, and they are beautiful. After a bit of walking and photo taking, we arranged to have a driver take us to Fira for the afternoon.
Once there, we started with lunch/brunch at Tholoto Brunch and Restaurant. I chose a savory pancake, Shawn got a Benedict, and Susan picked a sandwich. With my meal, I also ordered the fresh-squeezed orange juice, and it was DELICIOUS. You will see fresh-squeezed orange juice on restaurant menus in Greece, and it is often rather pricey (7-8 Euros or more). That is because it is really fresh-squeezed orange juice, and it tastes fantastic. Sweet, but not too sweet, fresh pulp, just delicious. Now that I am back stateside, one of the food items I miss most about Greece is this juice. Heaven.
After breakfast, we browsed a few shops, then made our way to the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, which is perched on a hill and features a gorgeous interior ceiling. Then, we decided to walk to Santo Winery for a tasting. On the map, it was about 2.5 miles, so we thought it was do-able. Most of the trek is on a sidewalk (though along a not-very-picturesque road), so we were fine. At the very end, though, the route turns sharply uphill, and the sidewalk disappears. If you try this on foot, just remain aware that the last half mile or so is dicey. If we had to do it again, we might have *tried* to get a cab.
At any rate, we arrived at the winery. Even though we didn't have a reservation, we were seated immediately near a window with a view of the caldera. We chose the 4-wine tasting with snacks, and it was perfect! It came with two whites and two reds, cheese, crackers, salami, and a couple of dips. For the next few hours, we sipped, nibbled, discussed, and enjoyed the views. We particularly liked the local wine variety - Assyrtiko - and continued to order it for the remainder of the trip. Shawn also bought a bottle of pink Vedema for later.
We got a ride back to the rental, where we showered and napped. By this time, the sun had come out! Santorini looks completely different in the sunshine than it does with cloud cover. It switches from moodily cinematic to a technicolor dream! Shawn and I high-tailed it to our rooftop deck, where we sprawled across the outdoor bed and soaked up the sunshine.
After we'd rested a bit in the fine air, we changed for dinner and took the steps from Oia all the way down to Ammoudi Bay for dinner at Ammoudi Fish Tavern. What a treat! We ordered a carafe of wine (More wine!) and tons of starters - salad, mussels, grilled vegetables, fries, etc. A note - At some of the family-style Greek restaurants, you can order a large portion of fish for the whole table. So, you might order 1 kilo of grilled fish (which is 2.2 pounds and would easily feed four people) for 85 Euros. This is a great option for seafood, but to order it, your whole table has to agree. (Otherwise, you will have A LOT of leftover fish.) Just something to keep in mind.
The food was great, the wine was flowing, and they had live Greek music. Just a gorgeous, gorgeous night right by the water. Conditions initially looked right for a lovely sunset, but clouds swooped in at the last moment and stymied our dreams! (No worries. The wine did an excellent job of blunting any disappointment.)
After dinner, we caught a car back to the rental rather than trusting our feet to the long staircase in the dark.
More to come . . .
Because we basically ate snacks for dinner the night before, I awoke hungry! Luckily, our rental was located in the Plaka, so we were never more than a few steps away from some delicious options. While Shawn and Susan slept in, I went in search of something tasty.
I found an al fresco cafe that was already open and settled in for a Mediterranean omelette (tons of veggies and feta cheese) and a big cappuccino. As I enjoyed my breakfast, I watched the little square wake up around me: tourists beginning to stir and stroll, other restaurants stocking items and unfurling their awnings, Athenians hurrying off to work. Just beautiful.
Well sated, I pointed my footsteps toward my next attraction: the Panathenaic Stadium. The current facility, which is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble, sits on the site of an ancient stadium where games have been held for centuries. In some of the earliest games, nude male athletes competed in track events. (Chafing, apparently, was a minor concern when weighed against possibly dying in bloody gladiatorial duels or contests with wild beasts.)
On the day I visited, there were games being played! It looked like some sort of adult intramural relay, and then in another section, groups of school children were doing field-day exercises. Visitors had the run of the rest of the place, though. You could walk sections of the large track, clamber up to nearly every stadium seat there, take the underground tunnel to the small interior museum (where many of Greece's Olympic torches are on display) and gift shop, and even stand on the winners' podium!
This was a fun, quick visit, and I really enjoyed it.
Afterwards, I popped back by the rental to pick up Susan and Shawn for lunch. We headed for The Clumsies, which Shawn had spotted on the New York Times' list of the world's best bars. This ended up being a GREAT stop. It was noon-ish, so the bar wasn't overly full. We were quickly seated. We were delighted by the bar's whimsical drink menu, and we ordered refreshing spritzes to start. Then, we moved on to bar food. I chose the sliders, Susan got pizza, and Shawn had the ke-bao bun. Once the plates were delivered, we all shared entrees, and all of the food was delicious. We loved the vibe here, and our waiter spent a lot of time talking with us about the bar, the ingredients they use to make their cocktails and food, and the philosophy of the place. Wonderful.
Next up - some museum time! Athens has so many world-class museums, and we didn't get the chance to give them their due during our short stay in town. (It's odd. When we told fellow Americans we'd be staying in Athens for four days, they all asked us, "Why so long?" Honestly, we could have stayed there for much longer. We barely scratched the surface of all there is to do.) On this afternoon, though, we headed to the National Archaeological Museum.
What a wonder! During the next 3 hours or so, we strolled through galleries featuring masterpieces of the world's great civilizations. The museum's Neolithic, Cycladic, and Mycenaean collections are very impressive, but so is their Egyptian exhibit. Gorgeous sculpture hid around every corner, and I loved some of their ancient gold jewelry. When we were ready for a break, we got lemonades from the museum cafe and enjoyed them at an open-air table in the facility's beautiful, shaded courtyard.
After enjoying the museum, we walked back to our rental. Along the way, we stopped by some gorgeous sweet shops and picked up things to sample - baklava, cookies, etc. - and munched on them in the rental.
Day 6
The next day was a big one - we were flying to Santorini! We had a quick breakfast at the rental and packed up. Our AirBnb host was kind enough to arrange a cab for us from the rental to the airport, and we enjoyed a lively conversation with Spiro, our driver, enroute.
Spiro had traveled all over Europe and was married to a Swiss woman. When Susan professed her desire to visit Switzerland and asked Spiro his opinion of the country, he hesitated, then said, "Switzerland . . . is a good country to die in. It is very boring. There is nothing to do there."
We about died laughing. Several times during our trip, someone we came into contact with would say something that tickled us. We started calling them "Greekisms" and began keeping track of them!
At any rate, we got to the airport, checked in for our flight, and made the 1-hour trip to the Santorini airport. Our AirBnb host in Santorini had kindly worked with us to arrange a driver to pick us up at the airport and get us to our rental. When we pulled in, a whole crew of young Greek guys were waiting to welcome us, show us the rental, tote our luggage in (Santorini is full of narrow, cobbled streets and tons of steps. There is no driving right up to your rental, particularly in Oia, where we were staying.), and otherwise assist.
For our next four days in Oia, this group of folks would provide us with invaluable assistance, as getting around the island takes some doing.
So, a quick Santorini overview - The island is a crescent shape and curves around the caldera. The caldera is a cauldron-like volcanic depression that collapsed after a volcanic eruption during the Minoan civilization and is now filled with gorgeous blue water.
There are really only a few places where it makes sense for tourists without a car on the island to stay - Oia (where we stayed - quieter, best sunset views; on the northern tip of the crescent of the island), Fira (bigger city, noisier and more crowded, but more restaurants, shops, and nightlife; nestled in the inner curve of the crescent of the island) or Imerovigli (Fira adjacent).
The ride from Oia to Fira is about half an hour by car. We didn't really want to drive on the island. (I'd tried driving in a foreign country when our family went to Mexico shortly before the pandemic hit. It wasn't hard, but it was stressful.) We'd chosen to stay in Oia (We're not much for nightlife.) and taxi into Fira a couple of times to explore.
That afternoon, however, we didn't do too much. We got settled into our rental, but the weather was chilly and rainy. We walked a bit and had a nice dinner (seafood linguine - yum!) at Strogili. Then, it was back to the rental for an early bedtime. (We'd hoped for one of Santorini's dazzling sunsets tonight, but with the rain, that was obviously a non-starter.)
Day 7
The next morning was overcast, but thankfully not rainy. We'd originally thought today would be a hiking day, but considering the sky, we decided to spend our time exploring in Oia and Fira. We had a nice breakfast at the rental and headed out, starting by walking the cobblestoned streets of Oia around our rental.
There are a few historic windmills in Oia (previously used to grind flour) that no longer function but have been preserved for the picturesque quality they lend to the landscape. There's also a ruined castle worth checking out in Oia. There was a period of history during which Oia was the target of pirates. Locals used the fortified castle to protect valuables and food stores during such attacks. The castle was ruined during an earthquake, but its remains are still moodily clinging to the cliff and are a great place for views and sunsets. (Our rental was situated squarely between the windmill and the castle, so we had an easy time locating both.)
Just wandering in this area is nice. There are tons of shops and restaurants, in addition to stunning views (even in the clouds) around random corners. There are several blue-domed churches in Oia that are hot spots for photos, and they are beautiful. After a bit of walking and photo taking, we arranged to have a driver take us to Fira for the afternoon.
Once there, we started with lunch/brunch at Tholoto Brunch and Restaurant. I chose a savory pancake, Shawn got a Benedict, and Susan picked a sandwich. With my meal, I also ordered the fresh-squeezed orange juice, and it was DELICIOUS. You will see fresh-squeezed orange juice on restaurant menus in Greece, and it is often rather pricey (7-8 Euros or more). That is because it is really fresh-squeezed orange juice, and it tastes fantastic. Sweet, but not too sweet, fresh pulp, just delicious. Now that I am back stateside, one of the food items I miss most about Greece is this juice. Heaven.
After breakfast, we browsed a few shops, then made our way to the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, which is perched on a hill and features a gorgeous interior ceiling. Then, we decided to walk to Santo Winery for a tasting. On the map, it was about 2.5 miles, so we thought it was do-able. Most of the trek is on a sidewalk (though along a not-very-picturesque road), so we were fine. At the very end, though, the route turns sharply uphill, and the sidewalk disappears. If you try this on foot, just remain aware that the last half mile or so is dicey. If we had to do it again, we might have *tried* to get a cab.
At any rate, we arrived at the winery. Even though we didn't have a reservation, we were seated immediately near a window with a view of the caldera. We chose the 4-wine tasting with snacks, and it was perfect! It came with two whites and two reds, cheese, crackers, salami, and a couple of dips. For the next few hours, we sipped, nibbled, discussed, and enjoyed the views. We particularly liked the local wine variety - Assyrtiko - and continued to order it for the remainder of the trip. Shawn also bought a bottle of pink Vedema for later.
We got a ride back to the rental, where we showered and napped. By this time, the sun had come out! Santorini looks completely different in the sunshine than it does with cloud cover. It switches from moodily cinematic to a technicolor dream! Shawn and I high-tailed it to our rooftop deck, where we sprawled across the outdoor bed and soaked up the sunshine.
After we'd rested a bit in the fine air, we changed for dinner and took the steps from Oia all the way down to Ammoudi Bay for dinner at Ammoudi Fish Tavern. What a treat! We ordered a carafe of wine (More wine!) and tons of starters - salad, mussels, grilled vegetables, fries, etc. A note - At some of the family-style Greek restaurants, you can order a large portion of fish for the whole table. So, you might order 1 kilo of grilled fish (which is 2.2 pounds and would easily feed four people) for 85 Euros. This is a great option for seafood, but to order it, your whole table has to agree. (Otherwise, you will have A LOT of leftover fish.) Just something to keep in mind.
The food was great, the wine was flowing, and they had live Greek music. Just a gorgeous, gorgeous night right by the water. Conditions initially looked right for a lovely sunset, but clouds swooped in at the last moment and stymied our dreams! (No worries. The wine did an excellent job of blunting any disappointment.)
After dinner, we caught a car back to the rental rather than trusting our feet to the long staircase in the dark.
More to come . . .
Jul 12th, 2023, 08:41 AM
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Day 7
On our second full day in Santorini, the weather was brilliant! Full sun, not too hot, and a photographer's ideal. While Susan slept in, Shawn and I started with coffee and breakfast at the rental, then went for a walk and did a bit of shopping in Oia. On this day, we walked the length of Oia, stopping in the main church square and making our way to the newer, Southern part of town. As you move south, the streets get a bit wider, and instead of being paved with cobblestones, transition to a flat marble tile (much easier on the feet). In general, I recommend sturdy, well-soled shoes for Santorini, as the pathways or often uneven and always feature steps and/or elevation. Do your feet a favor and wear sensible shoes!
By this time, Susan had awoken. We all popped into Lotza Restaurant, which offers both breakfast and lunch options and has gorgeous water views. Afterwards, Susan hit the shower and Shawn and I rested up for the activity that would occupy us for the rest of the day - a boat tour.
Boat tours are incredibly popular, because it's difficult to gaze at Santorini's aquamarine waters without wanted to get out there and experience them up close. Shawn had worked with our AirBnb hosts to book us a sunset cruise that included drinks and dinner. The cruise line, Spiridakos Sailing Cruises, sent a van to pick us up (along with two other cruisers) not far from our rental. Then, we drove about an hour to a port on the southern part of the island. From there, we boarded a large, beautiful catamaran with our fellow passengers (about 13 people total).
From the very start, the crew went out of their way to ensure our comfort and safety. After a short orientation, they got us all beverages, and the boat got underway. Because I (and Susan) both have a tendency toward seasickness, Susan had dosed both of us with Dramamine. Regardless, I quickly made my way to the front of the boat as we began sailing to help me keep from getting seasick.
For the next hour or two, we skimmed by the red beach and the white beach, stopping at each location briefly to enjoy the sun and replenish our drinks. Our guide told us all about the history of the island and pointed out landmarks visible from the water (such as the Akrotiri Lighthouse). At one point, we were given the option to either return to the back of the boat or ride up near the captain due to some rough seas. I was the only passenger who chose to ride with the captain (Again, I worried about my tummy facing backward in the back of the boat.), so he and I kept our bird's-eye view of the ocean up front.
We stopped at the hot springs while the crew cooked us a fantastic dinner on the boat. They made us fish, shrimp, chicken, pasta, salad, bread, tzatziki, Greek wine - It was fantastic! Susan was feeling a little queasy and abstained, but Shawn and I ate with our feet hanging off the back of the boat. Also at the hot springs, they offered passengers the chance to swim in the water. However, it was a very cold day, so I stayed on the boat.
Then, it was time to get in place for sunset. Our crew navigated the boat toward open water, and the passengers gathered to watch and wait. It was beautiful! There was very little cloud cover at the horizon, and our traveling party got our first official Santorini sunset!
We so enjoyed this activity, and I'd highly recommend it to anyone. We loved the sun, the sea, the food, the drinks, our fantastic crew, and all of the other fun passengers we met on the boat! I had a great time getting to know a sweet English couple who now live in Scotland, an adorable American couple on a trip for their 18th wedding anniversary, and a group of U.S. travelers kicking up their heels on a European vacation. I took fun photos for all of them at different points in the cruise, with one woman asking for my help as she made multiple costume changes for different photos on the boat! A hoot!
After the sun fully set, we made our way back to port and back to our rental, where we showered and sank gratefully into bed!
Day 8
On Sunday, we awoke early and started gussying up! On every trip our group takes, I arrange for us to have some photos made. (I started this in Paris, and I've never looked back. We've had our photos made there, plus in Napa Valley, Maine, and now, Santorini.) I have long been a proponent of services like Shoot My Travel, Flytographer, etc. You get professional images of your vacation, and every member of your travel party is in the shots. They make for wonderful memories!
We got dressed, did our hair/makeup, and headed for the main square in Oia early. Our local photographer wanted to meet early in the morning, before the day got hot and the charming streets were clogged with other tourists. We spent the next hour or so walking through Oia and posing for photos. We crossed paths with a few other tourists and their photographers doing the same thing we were! It was a nice morning of camaraderie!
When the photo shoot was over, we were starving. We headed back to Lotza's for omelettes and big glasses of orange juice! Then, we all went back to the rental for a rest.
Once my feet had a break (Tripping along the cobbled streets and steep steps of Oia in a pair of wedges was no joke! I should have brought an alternate set of shoes I could change into during the photo shoot!), Shawn and I donned our workout wear, packed our backpacks, and headed out on the 6.5-mile hike from Oia to Fira. This is said to be one of the best hikes in Greece, and most hikers do the one-way route from Fira to Oia. (This approach is easier, with more gentle inclines.) However, as we were already staying in Oia, we decided to tough it out in the harder direction, then relax in Fira for a nice meal.
We had absolutely perfect weather - clear skies, not too hot, a lovely breeze. The trail starts in Oia with some steep elevation, and parts of this section of the trail feel almost like a ridge trail. (Later sections feature switchbacks.) Views are fantastic and everywhere, all along the route. You get gorgeous caldera vistas, views of the countryside around both Oia and Fira, and, because it was spring, we saw oodles of wildflowers - horned poppies, sea figs, daisies, succulent stone plants, just all kinds of gorgeous blooms. Though there are occasional structures along the trail, there are very few services. Bring lots of water, wear sunscreen, and a hat to keep the sun off your face wouldn't hurt, either.
Along the route, we bumped into one of the couples we'd met on the boat the day before! How lovely! We stopped for a chat. At one point, we passed Nobu Hotel, Restaurant and Spa on the left-hand side of the trail. If I were a different woman, I would have packed my swimsuit, and at this halfway point, I would have stopped for lunch and a swim at Nobu, then changed back into my hiking clothes and carried on! #goals
As we approached Fira, Shawn and I spotted an ice cream shop and stopped for a gelato. (I got strawberry! Yum!) And before long, we were strolling into the heart of Fira. This part of Santorini is obviously developed much more deeply than Oia, with layer upon layer of hotels, shops, restaurants, and resorts built into the cliff. It was much more crowded and hosted much more activity.
Shawn and I started looking around for a likely spot to eat and found it at To Briki, a small spot with gorgeous coastal views. We ordered water, another carafe of Greek wine, and some bread and olives. I moved on to a plate of fish with an herbal and lemon sauce, studded with Feta cheese. Shawn had a crab salad.
After we'd eaten and drunk our fill, we bought a few specialty food items from a nearby shop. Then, our driver arrived to ferry us back to Oia. Once there, we changed into our swimsuits, poured ourselves more wine, and relaxed in our rooftop hot tub as the sun went down.
We basked in the full force of a gorgeous Oia sunset. We munched snacks, tilted our faces west, laughed, chatted, stretched our legs in the warm water, and decided that we may never leave Greece at all.
Day 9
On Monday, we awoke, breakfasted, packed up, and got ready to leave Santorini for Athens. When we were planning this trip, we didn't want to head straight from Santorini home. Frankly, just getting to Jackson from Athens would be marathon enough, without tacking on an additional 1-hour flight at the start of it. So, we'd decided to fly back to Athens on Monday, spend a final night there, and then journey on to Jackson the following morning.
Our sweet driver picked us up one last time and ferried us to the airport. We checked in for our flight, boarded, and were touching down in Athens in no time. A very eccentric cab driver took us from the airport to our second Athens AirBnb (also in the Plaka), quizzing us about American songs on the radio. (Before too long, we were all singing Sweet Home Alabama at the top of our lungs as the cab whizzed down an Athens street! Ah, travel!)
We arrived at the rental, checked in, and popped right across the road to have a meal at Zorba's. We were seated immediately in their open-air courtyard, which is just across the way from a huge, brilliantly blooming bougainvillea. Its riotous pink flowers made many passersby stop to marvel and/or take a photo.
I ordered bread, olives, and grilled sardines, and Shawn got dips and salad to share. Susan got a pork chop. More Greek wine for everyone! We ate our fill and then returned to the rental for a second to rest. We checked in for our flights the following day, and I arranged for a final cab to the airport via Spiro, our friend from earlier in the trip.
Then, it was back out for a last bit of wandering and shopping in the Plaka. It was a truly gorgeous night.
Tourists and locals alike were out, getting dinner, having snacks and drinks, and enjoying the evening. We did a little souvenir shopping. I bought a ring, a pair of earrings, some prayer beads for my son, and a few food items for hubs. Susan and Shawn headed to a shop they'd stumbled across earlier for a few items. Then, Susan and I grabbed a table at a little place on the Plaka steps for Aperol spritzes, salad, bread, olives, fries, and (of all things) a grilled ham and cheese sandwich! It was a wonderful way to end our trip!
Day 10
The next day, it was awake-breakfast-pack-cab-airport-home. We traveled all day, from Athens to Atlanta to Jackson. Hubs picked Shawn and I up at the airport and brought us home, where I slept like the dead!
I loved, loved, LOVED Greece and would be thrilled to return. The people, The food, The history. It's just an amazing country.
On my next trip, I'd still fly into Athens (and spend some time there seeing some of the museums and other sites I missed!), but I might then visit a different island (say, Crete, perhaps) afterwards. But I'd truly love to come back and experience more of this beautiful country.
On our second full day in Santorini, the weather was brilliant! Full sun, not too hot, and a photographer's ideal. While Susan slept in, Shawn and I started with coffee and breakfast at the rental, then went for a walk and did a bit of shopping in Oia. On this day, we walked the length of Oia, stopping in the main church square and making our way to the newer, Southern part of town. As you move south, the streets get a bit wider, and instead of being paved with cobblestones, transition to a flat marble tile (much easier on the feet). In general, I recommend sturdy, well-soled shoes for Santorini, as the pathways or often uneven and always feature steps and/or elevation. Do your feet a favor and wear sensible shoes!
By this time, Susan had awoken. We all popped into Lotza Restaurant, which offers both breakfast and lunch options and has gorgeous water views. Afterwards, Susan hit the shower and Shawn and I rested up for the activity that would occupy us for the rest of the day - a boat tour.
Boat tours are incredibly popular, because it's difficult to gaze at Santorini's aquamarine waters without wanted to get out there and experience them up close. Shawn had worked with our AirBnb hosts to book us a sunset cruise that included drinks and dinner. The cruise line, Spiridakos Sailing Cruises, sent a van to pick us up (along with two other cruisers) not far from our rental. Then, we drove about an hour to a port on the southern part of the island. From there, we boarded a large, beautiful catamaran with our fellow passengers (about 13 people total).
From the very start, the crew went out of their way to ensure our comfort and safety. After a short orientation, they got us all beverages, and the boat got underway. Because I (and Susan) both have a tendency toward seasickness, Susan had dosed both of us with Dramamine. Regardless, I quickly made my way to the front of the boat as we began sailing to help me keep from getting seasick.
For the next hour or two, we skimmed by the red beach and the white beach, stopping at each location briefly to enjoy the sun and replenish our drinks. Our guide told us all about the history of the island and pointed out landmarks visible from the water (such as the Akrotiri Lighthouse). At one point, we were given the option to either return to the back of the boat or ride up near the captain due to some rough seas. I was the only passenger who chose to ride with the captain (Again, I worried about my tummy facing backward in the back of the boat.), so he and I kept our bird's-eye view of the ocean up front.
We stopped at the hot springs while the crew cooked us a fantastic dinner on the boat. They made us fish, shrimp, chicken, pasta, salad, bread, tzatziki, Greek wine - It was fantastic! Susan was feeling a little queasy and abstained, but Shawn and I ate with our feet hanging off the back of the boat. Also at the hot springs, they offered passengers the chance to swim in the water. However, it was a very cold day, so I stayed on the boat.
Then, it was time to get in place for sunset. Our crew navigated the boat toward open water, and the passengers gathered to watch and wait. It was beautiful! There was very little cloud cover at the horizon, and our traveling party got our first official Santorini sunset!
We so enjoyed this activity, and I'd highly recommend it to anyone. We loved the sun, the sea, the food, the drinks, our fantastic crew, and all of the other fun passengers we met on the boat! I had a great time getting to know a sweet English couple who now live in Scotland, an adorable American couple on a trip for their 18th wedding anniversary, and a group of U.S. travelers kicking up their heels on a European vacation. I took fun photos for all of them at different points in the cruise, with one woman asking for my help as she made multiple costume changes for different photos on the boat! A hoot!
After the sun fully set, we made our way back to port and back to our rental, where we showered and sank gratefully into bed!
Day 8
On Sunday, we awoke early and started gussying up! On every trip our group takes, I arrange for us to have some photos made. (I started this in Paris, and I've never looked back. We've had our photos made there, plus in Napa Valley, Maine, and now, Santorini.) I have long been a proponent of services like Shoot My Travel, Flytographer, etc. You get professional images of your vacation, and every member of your travel party is in the shots. They make for wonderful memories!
We got dressed, did our hair/makeup, and headed for the main square in Oia early. Our local photographer wanted to meet early in the morning, before the day got hot and the charming streets were clogged with other tourists. We spent the next hour or so walking through Oia and posing for photos. We crossed paths with a few other tourists and their photographers doing the same thing we were! It was a nice morning of camaraderie!
When the photo shoot was over, we were starving. We headed back to Lotza's for omelettes and big glasses of orange juice! Then, we all went back to the rental for a rest.
Once my feet had a break (Tripping along the cobbled streets and steep steps of Oia in a pair of wedges was no joke! I should have brought an alternate set of shoes I could change into during the photo shoot!), Shawn and I donned our workout wear, packed our backpacks, and headed out on the 6.5-mile hike from Oia to Fira. This is said to be one of the best hikes in Greece, and most hikers do the one-way route from Fira to Oia. (This approach is easier, with more gentle inclines.) However, as we were already staying in Oia, we decided to tough it out in the harder direction, then relax in Fira for a nice meal.
We had absolutely perfect weather - clear skies, not too hot, a lovely breeze. The trail starts in Oia with some steep elevation, and parts of this section of the trail feel almost like a ridge trail. (Later sections feature switchbacks.) Views are fantastic and everywhere, all along the route. You get gorgeous caldera vistas, views of the countryside around both Oia and Fira, and, because it was spring, we saw oodles of wildflowers - horned poppies, sea figs, daisies, succulent stone plants, just all kinds of gorgeous blooms. Though there are occasional structures along the trail, there are very few services. Bring lots of water, wear sunscreen, and a hat to keep the sun off your face wouldn't hurt, either.
Along the route, we bumped into one of the couples we'd met on the boat the day before! How lovely! We stopped for a chat. At one point, we passed Nobu Hotel, Restaurant and Spa on the left-hand side of the trail. If I were a different woman, I would have packed my swimsuit, and at this halfway point, I would have stopped for lunch and a swim at Nobu, then changed back into my hiking clothes and carried on! #goals
As we approached Fira, Shawn and I spotted an ice cream shop and stopped for a gelato. (I got strawberry! Yum!) And before long, we were strolling into the heart of Fira. This part of Santorini is obviously developed much more deeply than Oia, with layer upon layer of hotels, shops, restaurants, and resorts built into the cliff. It was much more crowded and hosted much more activity.
Shawn and I started looking around for a likely spot to eat and found it at To Briki, a small spot with gorgeous coastal views. We ordered water, another carafe of Greek wine, and some bread and olives. I moved on to a plate of fish with an herbal and lemon sauce, studded with Feta cheese. Shawn had a crab salad.
After we'd eaten and drunk our fill, we bought a few specialty food items from a nearby shop. Then, our driver arrived to ferry us back to Oia. Once there, we changed into our swimsuits, poured ourselves more wine, and relaxed in our rooftop hot tub as the sun went down.
We basked in the full force of a gorgeous Oia sunset. We munched snacks, tilted our faces west, laughed, chatted, stretched our legs in the warm water, and decided that we may never leave Greece at all.
Day 9
On Monday, we awoke, breakfasted, packed up, and got ready to leave Santorini for Athens. When we were planning this trip, we didn't want to head straight from Santorini home. Frankly, just getting to Jackson from Athens would be marathon enough, without tacking on an additional 1-hour flight at the start of it. So, we'd decided to fly back to Athens on Monday, spend a final night there, and then journey on to Jackson the following morning.
Our sweet driver picked us up one last time and ferried us to the airport. We checked in for our flight, boarded, and were touching down in Athens in no time. A very eccentric cab driver took us from the airport to our second Athens AirBnb (also in the Plaka), quizzing us about American songs on the radio. (Before too long, we were all singing Sweet Home Alabama at the top of our lungs as the cab whizzed down an Athens street! Ah, travel!)
We arrived at the rental, checked in, and popped right across the road to have a meal at Zorba's. We were seated immediately in their open-air courtyard, which is just across the way from a huge, brilliantly blooming bougainvillea. Its riotous pink flowers made many passersby stop to marvel and/or take a photo.
I ordered bread, olives, and grilled sardines, and Shawn got dips and salad to share. Susan got a pork chop. More Greek wine for everyone! We ate our fill and then returned to the rental for a second to rest. We checked in for our flights the following day, and I arranged for a final cab to the airport via Spiro, our friend from earlier in the trip.
Then, it was back out for a last bit of wandering and shopping in the Plaka. It was a truly gorgeous night.
Tourists and locals alike were out, getting dinner, having snacks and drinks, and enjoying the evening. We did a little souvenir shopping. I bought a ring, a pair of earrings, some prayer beads for my son, and a few food items for hubs. Susan and Shawn headed to a shop they'd stumbled across earlier for a few items. Then, Susan and I grabbed a table at a little place on the Plaka steps for Aperol spritzes, salad, bread, olives, fries, and (of all things) a grilled ham and cheese sandwich! It was a wonderful way to end our trip!
Day 10
The next day, it was awake-breakfast-pack-cab-airport-home. We traveled all day, from Athens to Atlanta to Jackson. Hubs picked Shawn and I up at the airport and brought us home, where I slept like the dead!
I loved, loved, LOVED Greece and would be thrilled to return. The people, The food, The history. It's just an amazing country.
On my next trip, I'd still fly into Athens (and spend some time there seeing some of the museums and other sites I missed!), but I might then visit a different island (say, Crete, perhaps) afterwards. But I'd truly love to come back and experience more of this beautiful country.
Jul 13th, 2023, 09:34 AM
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What an engaging and fun trip report and I envy your notes, they're so thorough. I try keeping track but, invariably, I miss something. I've been to some of the places you mentioned and love your outlook on travel as well as your noting comfortable shoes - Amen to that. Also agree that one could easily spend a lot more time in Athens How fortunate that you three travel so well together; that's not easy to come by. Thanks so much for sharing.
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