Thanks to everyone for the advice re: Ireland. We (four women friends) spent 10 days there in early June. After landing in Shannon around 9:00 a.m. we picked up our rental car from Dan Dooley (no problems - we got every type of insurance imaginable, but didn't need it)and headed to Galway. At the very first roundabout we pulled out in front of a semi-truck and almost ended the trip right there, but fortunately that didn't happen again. It was about a two hour drive to Galway and even though we had detailed directions to our bed and breakfast we had to stop and ask for directions. We literally drug ourselves into the front room of The Marless House, where our hostess Mary said we were a little early and our rooms weren't ready yet, but she served us a spot of tea with biscuits and gave us lots of information and tips about the area. Marless House is nicely situated, a block from the promenade along Galway Beach, with lovely rooms and a delicious, huge breakfast menu. Mary gave us directions on how to take the bus downtown and after a nap, we went down to the pedestrian shopping area. First stop was MacDonaghs for fish and chips. Pretty good and reasonably priced, but not one of our better meals. We wandered around, stopping at St. Nicholas Church (supposedly Christopher Columbus worshipped here before leaving for the new world)and doing a little shopping. This was just the first of a lot of shopping!

The next day we drove to Ashford Castle where we wandered the grounds and stopped in nearby Cong for a delicious dessert and a walk around the Cong Monastery. Stopped for a half-pint in Maum, then drove down the west side of Corrib Lough with a stop for dinner in Moycullen at The Forge. It was very good (lots of seafood on the menu) and the other customers were intently watching Ireland play soccer on the TV's in the bar area.

Back to the Marless House where we decided to go to the Aran Islands the next day. Wouldn't you know it would be the rainiest day of the entire trip, but we went anyway and enjoyed the soft Irish weather. We left from Rossaveel and the ferry trip was around an hour, I believe. Small tour buses were lined up at the dock on Inishmore and we kept walking until we found one that wasn't crowded. It took us to Dun Aonghasa, an ancient fort on the coast of Inishmore. We hiked in the rain - a little slippery, but not too bad. The view of the coast was beautiful and amazing, because there's nothing to keep you from stepping right over the edge! Because the weather was not terribly cooperative we took the 5:00 ferry back to the mainland, but only after doing some shopping for Aran sweaters. Supper that night was at a forgettable pizza place because we were starving, then back to the Marless House for one more night. It was never warm enough for us to walk comfortably along the promenade along Galway Bay, although the Irish people seemed to be much more warm blooded that we were. They were out in shorts and spaghetti straps, while we were bundled up in three layers with our hoods up on our coats. These warm Phoenix days really thin out your blood!

Okay, I'll try to include fewer details, or this will be a book-length report! We left Galway, stopping in Spiddal to shop, then drove along the coast to Roundstone, a beautiful little fishing town, where we had a cup of tea and dessert and shopped, then continued up the coast to Clifden. This took us most of the day, but if we hadn't stopped to shop, it would probably been about four hours. We were booked a the Ben View Bed and Breakfast in Clifden for two nights. This was a rather disappointing b & b, very worn sheets and bedspreads and not very fresh smelling, although the bathroom was spotless. The breakfast room was pretty with lots of antiques and knicknacks everywhere and breakfast was okay. We picked it because the website made it look like it had a lot of history behind it, but that wasn't real evident at the B & B itself. Dinner that evening at D'Arcy's, at the recommendation of the b & b owner. Pub atmosphere with just okay food. I think the upstairs dining room wasn't open for the season yet. We went to another pub for half pints and music and when we returned to Ben View at 11:00 it was still light. Love those long days!

The next morning we drove to the Connemara Heritage Center (very interesting - even had a little pooncheen), then on to the Kylemore Abbey on a gorgeous highway around several loughs (lakes). There were lots of tourists and tour buses at Kylemore Abbey. We had lunch at the cafeteria and then paid the 8 euros to see a few rooms in the Abbey, the small church and the enormous gardens - beautiful, but the little nats were out in force. We drove back through Letterfrack to Clifden, where we stopped at an internet/video store to email our families. I also had a young man there put the pictures on my digital camera on a CD to free up space to take more pictures. Dinner was at Fogarty's, after a 30 minute wait in the basement wine cellar. It was very good (more seafood).

On Wednesday, June 8, we left Clifden and drove back through Galway to Doolin. Stopped at the Holywell Italian Cafe near Ballyvaughan in County Clare for a late lunch. This was maybe our best meal of the trip and wonderful Italian food with a beautiful view of the countryside. Our first really sunny day. So far we'd had two rainy days and two partly sunny days. We seemed to have missed the Burren, although I think we were driving right through it. I regret that we didn't go to the Burren Center in Kilfenora. We arrived at the Cliffs of Moher in the late afternoon. Several tour buses there, but it's such a big area it didn't seem crowded. We oohed and aahed over the daredevils who walked along the edge or lay down to look over. I think it was 4 euros to leave the parking lot. Our B & B that night was the Harbour View, near Doolin. Another purpose-built B & B with a beautiful view and lovely breakfast. Big bathrooms with tiny showers (??). We went into Doolin to check out Gus O'Connors (of course) and had dinner at the Roadhouse, I think. A new restaurant with delicious food. By this point we had decided we were more restaurant people than pub people. The next morning we went back to Doolin to shop, then headed to Killimer to catch the ferry across the River Shannon to Tarbert, saving around 85 miles in driving to the Dingle Peninsula.

We drove towards Dingle, stopping between Listowel and Tralee for lunch at The Bog History Center. We continued through Tralee along the north coast of the Dingle Peninsula, intending to take the Connor Pass to Dingle. We stopped at a beautiful beach near Kilcummin and walked along it for an hour or so. Just us and a few local people. Didn't realize the sand from our shoes was going to stink up the car for the next couple of days! After eyeing some huge storm clouds over the Connor Pass we decided to go back to Gamp and take the N86 around to Dingle. We stopped at a supermarket in Dingle in the early evening and picked up wine and cheese and fruit for a light supper at the next b & b, which was Ceann Tra near Ventry. This was another very nice place to stay with an amazing view of Dingle Bay. We started out the next day with a shopping spree in Dingle (lots of tourists there), then drove the Slea Head Drive, stopping at the Dunbeg Fort, the Beehive Huts and the Famine Cottage. The Famine Cottage was fascinating - it's hard to imagine the hardship those people faced. We continued on around the end of the peninsula (the most westerly point of the European continent) and stopped at the Great Blasket Center museum. Another must see, with a very informative film and wonderful exhibits. At this point we were pressed for time as we had gotten tickets to a folk concert in Dingle that night. We hurried back to Dingle and after a quick dinner we went to St. James Church to listen to five musicians playing the harp, guitar, tin whistle and singing. This was a tiny church, only able to hold about 60 people so it was an intimate concert and very enjoyable.

The next day we left Ceann Tra b & b and drove to Dunquin, at the very tip of the peninsula to take the ferry to the Great Blasket Island. It is now deserted, but many years ago it was a small town that was isolated enough that it retained the Gaelic language after most of Ireland had stopped using it. As a result several writers went there to learn Gaelic and encouraged the islanders to record their lifestyle and history. It was fascinating to wander around the deserted village. There is a hostel/cafe there, but it was not yet open for the season. This was our fourth sunny day in a row and we wished we had taken a little food and water with us. After spending a couple of hours on the island we took the ferry back across to Dunquin and began the drive to Bunratty for our last night in Ireland. It took around four hours, I think to get there. By now, driving on the left side of the road seemed natural. We stayed that night at Dunaree B & B, a mile or so north of Bunratty Castle. Nice rooms and nice breakfast, but this is really only an area to stay because you have to catch a plane the next day. Some last minute shopping at the Castle and then dinner at a restaurant a short distance from the castle - maybe Gallaghers? More delicious seafood and more Guinness and lots of happy memories of Ireland. We all agreeed we'd go back in a heartbeat. We left the next day, but not without spending every last euro at the gift shops in the airport!

Bev

Thanks for the trip report of Ireland, it was very interesting, and I'm glad you enjoyed Ireland so much!!

I think this might have slipped down off the page very quickly when you posted it and not many people got to see it, so I'm topping it as I am sure others will find it very useful!

Angela

Enjoyed reading your report. And curious about what you bought in all your shopping escapades. As someone who doesn't really shop when we travel, I'd love to hear about what kinds of things you bought in Ireland.

Hi Rickmav, as I re-read my report I'm also surprised at how often I mentioned the shopping! This was probably the only area that my traveling companions and I were not in agreement as I like to do some shopping but not as much as we did. It was their first trip to Europe and they had long lists of people to buy for. They bought crystal, woolens, lace, Guinness products, pictures, jewelry - you name, they bought it! At one point I overheard them arguing about who was going to inherit a piece of Waterford crystal they were buying for their mother.....