Gracie04's Trip Report: Milan, Bellagio, and Venice. April 30- May 07, 2008
Jun 6th, 2008, 03:04 PM
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Thank you!! I still haven't seen the pics because I had to register & have them email her to request I view pictures. Wonder if I did it wrong. ???
I can't wait for Venice part of your report. We just found out my husband is going to Milan for business & I plan to tag along..would there be plenty to occupy myself with in Milan until we can travel somewhere together??(like Venice
I love walking around cities & just experiencing the culture.
I can't wait for Venice part of your report. We just found out my husband is going to Milan for business & I plan to tag along..would there be plenty to occupy myself with in Milan until we can travel somewhere together??(like Venice
I love walking around cities & just experiencing the culture.
Jun 7th, 2008, 09:19 AM
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Okay, so let's try this again...
Where was I? Oh yeah, the vaporetto passes. We probably broke even on the cost of them. The weather was so nice most of the time that we walked everywhere. It was nice having a pass, though, instead of having to buy a ticket each time. Finding your way around Venice was actually much easier than I had imagined. I thought we would spend the majority of our time wandering around lost, but between using the landmark signs on the buildings, and a good map, we did well. Don't get me wrong, we got turned around more than once, and finding our hotel for the first time was an adventure, but on the whole it was pretty easy.
I purposely didn't plan anything specific for us to do while we were here. Our time was so limited, (3 days) that I really just wanted to spend time wandering around, taking it all in. The only things that I researched was different neighborhoods, restaurants, and of course, where to stay. So instead of a day by day report, I'll just give the highlights. Here goes...
First, our hotel:
Corte Grimani, € 200/night tax included.
www.cortegrimani.com
I have nothing but good things to say about Corte Gimani. It's like an apartment set up with hotel services. Great location, between Rialto and San Marco. Our apartment (#302) was a "classic standard", but was very spacious. K took the bedroom this time, and I took the sofa bed in the living room. I was surprised, for a sofa bed it was comfortable. Trying to find the hotel for the first time was a challenge, but once you know where it is, it's easy to find your way back. Donatella and everone at the front desk was very kind and helpful. Another thing that I really enjoyed: the hotel across the way, the Bonvecchiati, had a guy playing jazz on their patio at night until around midnight, so when we would get back to the room, we would keep the windows open and listen to him play before we fell asleep. It was kind of like having a room on Bourbon Street without the drunks.
My impression of Venice:
I fell in love with this city. I wish I could have had a few more days, but I guess that just gives me a reason to return. I had read things about Venice before we left that were negative: It exists just for the tourists, which there are too many of, the food is bad, etc... I'm sure there is truth to that, but I loved it. I think Venice is one of the most beautiful and unique cities I have visited. I think, though, that the reason I loved my stay here so much had to do with several things. First, I think we visited at a good time of year. The crowds weren't bad yet, and the weather was still cool, which was nice for walking around so much. Second, I took the advice of the posters here who said to visit Rialto and San Marco either early in the morning or late in the evening, and concentrate on lesser visited neighborhoods during the day. My favorite memories are getting up early, leaving the room by 7:30, going to get my capuccino and cornetto, and then walking around taking pictures. Third, I also took your advice on restaurants, and we had some really great meals. More on that next.
Restaurants:
Bancogiro: Near the Rialto Markets. Thank you Statia for this suggestion. We had drinks here our first afternoon. What a great place to have a glass of wine and watch boats go by on the Grand Canal. K had a spritz, which she liked. I wasn't a fan.
Vecio Fritolin: San Polo (dinner)
I knew while I was in Venice, I wanted to try Sarde in Saor. I figured this was the place to try it. The sardines were a little strong, but it was a very good dish, and served with polenta, which is always a good thing in my book. I also had seard tuna with zucchini and baby artichokes. K had a salad of snow peas, shrimp and oranges, then pasta. We shared a dessert of lemon mousse. With two glasses of wine and a bottle of water, the bill came to € 90.20.
La Campagna: not far from the hotel, going toward Rialto. (lunch)
This was a Sandra Gustafson Great Eats Italy recommendation. She wrote a good review of it in her book, but I thought it was just okay. K and I both had mixed salads, I had pasta pesto which didn;t have a lot of flavor. K had pork scallopine which we both thought was a little dry. Packed at lunch with a mix of locals and tourists. € 36
La Zucca: S. Croce (dinner)
What a great place! We had a (shared) table next to a canal. Our food was wonderful. Our waiter was nice, and took the time to explain the dishes, and the best way to order from the menu. I had the pumpkin flan topped with ricotta salata and pumpkin seeds (if it was acceptable to lick the plate I would have) and ossobucco. K had salad and lasagne. We split a plate of balsamic glazed cippolini onions. Can't find the receipt, but whatever we paid was worth every penny.
La Calcina: Along the Zattere, Dorsoduro (lunch)
Outdoor seating, with a view of the Guidecca Canal. We shared a plate of mixed bruschetta, K had salad and pasta. I had salad and crespelle. Not nearly as good as the crespelle at Bilacus in Bellagio. Came out cold. I liked this place for the view and drinks better than the food. € 70
Sempione: San Marco (dinner)
This was a last minute decision. We weren't planning on having dinner this night, but we passed by it on our gondola ride. I remembered it had gotten good reviews here, so we went in search of it. We got turned around trying to find it and almost gave up. All of a sudden I tripped on the pavement, went flying but made a very good save (people clapped for me) and when I looked up, we were right in front of it. I took it as a sign. Very pretty restaurant with canal side tables. Food was nicely prepared. I had a bowl of bean soup and veal Milanese w/salad. K had octopus salad and lasagne. Can't find the receipt, but I remember thinking it was less expensive than other restaurants. I enjoyed this place and would eat there again.
Rialto Markets:
Bought fresh strawberries and blood oranges to take back to the apartment. We have good strawberries where I live, but these were amazing. Red all the way through, and so sweet. I'm craving some right now.
Okay, that's it for now. Next up, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum.
Where was I? Oh yeah, the vaporetto passes. We probably broke even on the cost of them. The weather was so nice most of the time that we walked everywhere. It was nice having a pass, though, instead of having to buy a ticket each time. Finding your way around Venice was actually much easier than I had imagined. I thought we would spend the majority of our time wandering around lost, but between using the landmark signs on the buildings, and a good map, we did well. Don't get me wrong, we got turned around more than once, and finding our hotel for the first time was an adventure, but on the whole it was pretty easy.
I purposely didn't plan anything specific for us to do while we were here. Our time was so limited, (3 days) that I really just wanted to spend time wandering around, taking it all in. The only things that I researched was different neighborhoods, restaurants, and of course, where to stay. So instead of a day by day report, I'll just give the highlights. Here goes...
First, our hotel:
Corte Grimani, € 200/night tax included.
www.cortegrimani.com
I have nothing but good things to say about Corte Gimani. It's like an apartment set up with hotel services. Great location, between Rialto and San Marco. Our apartment (#302) was a "classic standard", but was very spacious. K took the bedroom this time, and I took the sofa bed in the living room. I was surprised, for a sofa bed it was comfortable. Trying to find the hotel for the first time was a challenge, but once you know where it is, it's easy to find your way back. Donatella and everone at the front desk was very kind and helpful. Another thing that I really enjoyed: the hotel across the way, the Bonvecchiati, had a guy playing jazz on their patio at night until around midnight, so when we would get back to the room, we would keep the windows open and listen to him play before we fell asleep. It was kind of like having a room on Bourbon Street without the drunks.
My impression of Venice:
I fell in love with this city. I wish I could have had a few more days, but I guess that just gives me a reason to return. I had read things about Venice before we left that were negative: It exists just for the tourists, which there are too many of, the food is bad, etc... I'm sure there is truth to that, but I loved it. I think Venice is one of the most beautiful and unique cities I have visited. I think, though, that the reason I loved my stay here so much had to do with several things. First, I think we visited at a good time of year. The crowds weren't bad yet, and the weather was still cool, which was nice for walking around so much. Second, I took the advice of the posters here who said to visit Rialto and San Marco either early in the morning or late in the evening, and concentrate on lesser visited neighborhoods during the day. My favorite memories are getting up early, leaving the room by 7:30, going to get my capuccino and cornetto, and then walking around taking pictures. Third, I also took your advice on restaurants, and we had some really great meals. More on that next.
Restaurants:
Bancogiro: Near the Rialto Markets. Thank you Statia for this suggestion. We had drinks here our first afternoon. What a great place to have a glass of wine and watch boats go by on the Grand Canal. K had a spritz, which she liked. I wasn't a fan.
Vecio Fritolin: San Polo (dinner)
I knew while I was in Venice, I wanted to try Sarde in Saor. I figured this was the place to try it. The sardines were a little strong, but it was a very good dish, and served with polenta, which is always a good thing in my book. I also had seard tuna with zucchini and baby artichokes. K had a salad of snow peas, shrimp and oranges, then pasta. We shared a dessert of lemon mousse. With two glasses of wine and a bottle of water, the bill came to € 90.20.
La Campagna: not far from the hotel, going toward Rialto. (lunch)
This was a Sandra Gustafson Great Eats Italy recommendation. She wrote a good review of it in her book, but I thought it was just okay. K and I both had mixed salads, I had pasta pesto which didn;t have a lot of flavor. K had pork scallopine which we both thought was a little dry. Packed at lunch with a mix of locals and tourists. € 36
La Zucca: S. Croce (dinner)
What a great place! We had a (shared) table next to a canal. Our food was wonderful. Our waiter was nice, and took the time to explain the dishes, and the best way to order from the menu. I had the pumpkin flan topped with ricotta salata and pumpkin seeds (if it was acceptable to lick the plate I would have) and ossobucco. K had salad and lasagne. We split a plate of balsamic glazed cippolini onions. Can't find the receipt, but whatever we paid was worth every penny.
La Calcina: Along the Zattere, Dorsoduro (lunch)
Outdoor seating, with a view of the Guidecca Canal. We shared a plate of mixed bruschetta, K had salad and pasta. I had salad and crespelle. Not nearly as good as the crespelle at Bilacus in Bellagio. Came out cold. I liked this place for the view and drinks better than the food. € 70
Sempione: San Marco (dinner)
This was a last minute decision. We weren't planning on having dinner this night, but we passed by it on our gondola ride. I remembered it had gotten good reviews here, so we went in search of it. We got turned around trying to find it and almost gave up. All of a sudden I tripped on the pavement, went flying but made a very good save (people clapped for me) and when I looked up, we were right in front of it. I took it as a sign. Very pretty restaurant with canal side tables. Food was nicely prepared. I had a bowl of bean soup and veal Milanese w/salad. K had octopus salad and lasagne. Can't find the receipt, but I remember thinking it was less expensive than other restaurants. I enjoyed this place and would eat there again.
Rialto Markets:
Bought fresh strawberries and blood oranges to take back to the apartment. We have good strawberries where I live, but these were amazing. Red all the way through, and so sweet. I'm craving some right now.
Okay, that's it for now. Next up, the Peggy Guggenheim Museum.
Jun 7th, 2008, 10:25 AM
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Hello gracie, your beautiful report is wonderful and so informative! I have not started going through my clothes closet as I planned on doing as came across this report of yours and became enthralled.
And "tripping on the pavement"..I have tripped and a few times went splat on the pavement while in Italy, sigh. Just one "trip" per visit though. I am glad you didn't actually fall.
I am glad you enjoyed Milan. Unlike some I love that city! I look forward to your next segment.
And "tripping on the pavement"..I have tripped and a few times went splat on the pavement while in Italy, sigh. Just one "trip" per visit though. I am glad you didn't actually fall.
I am glad you enjoyed Milan. Unlike some I love that city! I look forward to your next segment.
Jun 7th, 2008, 11:21 AM
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LoveItaly, thank you so much for your kind words, you have made my day.
I would love to go back to Milan one day and experience it when I wasn't jet lagged and had more time. I didn't make it to the Castello Sforzesco, or the museum, the name escapes me right now-- Pinoteca Brera??
Mamamia, yes, there is plenty to keep you occupied while your husband is working. I think you would have a wonderful time.
Johanna
I would love to go back to Milan one day and experience it when I wasn't jet lagged and had more time. I didn't make it to the Castello Sforzesco, or the museum, the name escapes me right now-- Pinoteca Brera??
Mamamia, yes, there is plenty to keep you occupied while your husband is working. I think you would have a wonderful time.
Johanna
Jun 9th, 2008, 08:10 AM
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Okay, so I thought I would finish this report up today with a list of some things we enjoyed.
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum
(Dorsoduro) Admission: € 10/pp
As much as I love big museums, I really appreciate a smaller collection that doesn't take days to see. K and I were walking along the Zattere when it looked like a big storm was about to blow through. We needed a place to duck into, so we thought this would be a good time to visit the Guggenheim. What a gem! Not only is the art interesting, but the palazzo it is housed in is as well. In the back, there is a courtyard that is a nice place to rest and get off your feet for a while, and in front is the Grand Canal. You can't go wrong. Plus, Peggy herself was a fascinating person. She reminds me of Auntie Mame.
I Frari Church (San Polo)
Small admission to enter, maybe € 6
This magnificent church holds such treasures as Titian's "Assumption of the Virgin" and the Bellini triptych. Plus, the San Polo neighborhood was my favorite for wandering around.
A Vivaldi concert at Chiesa S. Vidal (San Marco) &euro 24/pp
I like classical music, but it always makes me sleepy. I thought for sure that seeing this concert after dinner at La Zucca, I'd be out like a light. But I wasn't. The church was beautiful, the accoustics good, and the orchestra was entertaining. It was a nice way to spend the evening.
The obligatory Bellini at Harry's Bar:
We walked to Harry's Bar after the Vivaldi concert. It was a fun way to cap off the night. Still pretty crowded at 11:00. Much smaller inside than I expected.
Fortuny Terrace, Hotel Cipriani (Giudecca)
This was one of my favorite things we did. When I die, if I'm lucky enough to go to heaven, I'm hoping it's like the Fortuny Terrace. You can take a free water taxi from San Marco to the Cipriani Hotel. The bellinis here were much better than the ones at Harry's Bar. I don't know why. There are gardens in the back of the hotel you can wander through, and views across to San Marco from Cip's Club.
Cafe Florian
Yes, it's expensive, but think of it as paying for the whole experience. Sitting there at night under the stars in San Marco square, with the band palying, all I could think of was how lucky and happy I was to be there.
Finally, a gondola ride. I have to say, this wasn't as cheesy as I thought it would be. In fact, I really enjoyed it. We went in the evening, and it was very relaxing. We stuck to mostly the smaller canals, and it was a great way to see Venice. € 70
So that's my first ever trip report. I hope it can be helpful to someone. Thanks for reading,
Johanna
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum
(Dorsoduro) Admission: € 10/pp
As much as I love big museums, I really appreciate a smaller collection that doesn't take days to see. K and I were walking along the Zattere when it looked like a big storm was about to blow through. We needed a place to duck into, so we thought this would be a good time to visit the Guggenheim. What a gem! Not only is the art interesting, but the palazzo it is housed in is as well. In the back, there is a courtyard that is a nice place to rest and get off your feet for a while, and in front is the Grand Canal. You can't go wrong. Plus, Peggy herself was a fascinating person. She reminds me of Auntie Mame.
I Frari Church (San Polo)
Small admission to enter, maybe € 6
This magnificent church holds such treasures as Titian's "Assumption of the Virgin" and the Bellini triptych. Plus, the San Polo neighborhood was my favorite for wandering around.
A Vivaldi concert at Chiesa S. Vidal (San Marco) &euro 24/pp
I like classical music, but it always makes me sleepy. I thought for sure that seeing this concert after dinner at La Zucca, I'd be out like a light. But I wasn't. The church was beautiful, the accoustics good, and the orchestra was entertaining. It was a nice way to spend the evening.
The obligatory Bellini at Harry's Bar:
We walked to Harry's Bar after the Vivaldi concert. It was a fun way to cap off the night. Still pretty crowded at 11:00. Much smaller inside than I expected.
Fortuny Terrace, Hotel Cipriani (Giudecca)
This was one of my favorite things we did. When I die, if I'm lucky enough to go to heaven, I'm hoping it's like the Fortuny Terrace. You can take a free water taxi from San Marco to the Cipriani Hotel. The bellinis here were much better than the ones at Harry's Bar. I don't know why. There are gardens in the back of the hotel you can wander through, and views across to San Marco from Cip's Club.
Cafe Florian
Yes, it's expensive, but think of it as paying for the whole experience. Sitting there at night under the stars in San Marco square, with the band palying, all I could think of was how lucky and happy I was to be there.
Finally, a gondola ride. I have to say, this wasn't as cheesy as I thought it would be. In fact, I really enjoyed it. We went in the evening, and it was very relaxing. We stuck to mostly the smaller canals, and it was a great way to see Venice. € 70
So that's my first ever trip report. I hope it can be helpful to someone. Thanks for reading,
Johanna
Jun 10th, 2008, 10:43 AM
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Jun 10th, 2008, 10:59 AM
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Your report brought back so many memories for me! We spent two weeks in a venice/cortina/bolzano/lakes/milano/verona loop last september. Milan was a last minute addition and we also loved it. It was the anniversary of Maria Calla's death so LaScala had a huge exhibition of her many costumes and gowns. Our favorite restaurant there was Cafe Piccolo - very close to our hotel, tiny as the name implies and probably one of the two or three best meals I had on the trip. venice is magical - it was our second trip there and we also spent more time exploring the neighborhoods than San Marco, etc. There are so many tiny churches and alleyways to explore! ciao -
Jun 13th, 2008, 04:42 PM
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Johanna - no, this is actually only my second visit to Europe. I went for the first time last year and how do you say...I am hooked? 
I have been to Rome and Florence in Italy but that is it...
very much looking forward to Venice.
I have been to Rome and Florence in Italy but that is it...
very much looking forward to Venice.
